Tailoring

TAILORING
WHAT IS TAILORING?
•IS A PERSON WHO MAKES,

REPAIRS, OR ALTERS CLOTHING
PROFESSIONALLY, ESPECIALLY
SUITS AND MEN’S CLOTHING
CREATION OF A MAN'S SUIT
Originally associated with the English country
gentleman, the simple wool suit gradually replaced
the ornamental silk suit of the French court.
During the 19th century, this tailored suit became
the uniform of Europe’s rising bourgeoisie.
Though the slim and body-conscious suit of the
late 18th century looked very different from its
voluminous 17th-century predecessor, both were
colorful and lavishly trimmed. The uniform of
courtiers throughout Europe, the suit was often
made of silks ornamented with embroidery and
lavishly accessorized with lace cuffs and cravats.
Today, ornamentation is regarded as “feminine,”
but the decorated man was then a symbol of both
masculinity and power. Along with the original
18th-century suit, the exhibition also includes two
later versions – a 19th-century “rococo revival”
example made of wool, and a contemporary
woman’s suit made of leather by Roberto Cavalli.
THE SUIT IN THE 19TH CENTURY
While Paris remained the center of female fashion
in the 19th century, London became the capital of
masculine style. London also gave birth to the
dandy, a male type, famously associated with
George Bryan “Beau” Brummell. Lauded by the
French writer, Charles Baudelaire, the dandy did
much to advance the popularity and importance of
dark suits. Elegant and ineffably “cool,” the dandy
was a creature of immaculate grooming and
reductive elegance.
An ever widening circle of men from all levels of
society began to wear the suit as a symbol of
authority, respectability, and both conformity and
defiance. Technical advancements in production
allowed manufacturers to produce ready-to-wear
versions at reasonable prices. These affordable
suits were worn by a broad swath of the male
population, especially in the United States.
Expensive custom-tailored ensembles, however,
were reserved for the wealthy.

MEN'S DRESSING GOWNS AND WAISTCOAT
FABRICS
Elite men throughout history have worn luxurious
clothing made of lush fabrics that display a full
range of colors and patterns. During the 18th
century, for example, masculine fashion included
woven silks, brocade, velvet, and lavish
embroideries; yet by the 19th century, suit and
coat fabrics were commonly constructed with dark
wool. Options for pattern and color thus became
limited, but men still had access to lavishly
patterned silk waistcoats, dressing gowns, and
scarves. The dressing gown, in particular, was
often sumptuous, reflecting its origin in Persian
court dress. With the development of roller
printing in 1783, the cost of printing on fabric fell,
and public desire for multicolor, complex patterns
grew.
TARTAN
Tartan is a multicolor check or plaid twill woven
wool fabric associated with often-romanticized
notions of Scottish identity. Contrary to popular
belief, specific tartan patterns, such as Dress
Stewart and Black Watch, can not be empirically
linked to specific Scottish clans or families. Still,
tartan has played an important role in the history
of Scottish nationalism. By 1600, tartan was a
distinctive part of Highland dress, but after 1745,
when the Highlanders supported the Stuart prince
“Bonny Prince Charlie” against King George II, the
wearing of tartan was forbidden. The rebel nature
of tartan can be traced back to this time. This
illuminates tartan’s appeal to the punk rockers of
the 1970s, and to fashion designers in search of
subversive style. Paradoxically, tartan can also be
conventionally fashionable and, in addition to
being a favorite for both men’s and women’s
clothing, it is widely used today for interior fabrics.
MEN'S ACCESSORIES IN THE 19H CENTURY
As menswear grew increasingly utilitarian, accessories became
an important indicator of personal style. Hats were an expensive
but necessary component of the male wardrobe, because to be
seen hatless in public was socially unacceptable. The preeminent
masculine accessory of the 19th century, the top hat, was in
perfect harmony with the increasing simplicity of men’s dress.
Boots were preferred to shoes, since they conveyed masculine
strength and a military panache – and military influence, due to
a rise in nationalist sentiment, dominated the early 19th
century. The two most popular boots were the Hessian and the
Wellington, both variations on the high, leather riding boot.
These styles were later eclipsed by short, ankle-length boots,
such as the laced Blucher and the high-button Balmoral,
popularized by Prince Albert.
The late 19th century was characterized by sartorial formality.
Cleanliness and a neat appearance were prized, with an
emphasis on spotless shoes, gloves, and collars. Hence the
importance of spats and the detachable collar, both of which
could easily be replaced for laundering.

Tailoring

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TAILORING

•IS A PERSON WHO MAKES,

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