Formulating

Making cosmetics
&
personal care products

Perry Romanowski
Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
10/02/07
 Agenda
Naming Chemicals
Raw materials
Formula types
Creating and testing formulas
 Personal Care & Cosmetic
Products

All of them are required to have

List of Ingredients (LOI)
 Formulating
Naming Cosmetic Chemicals
Chemical Nomenclature
INCI Dictionary (11th edition)
Legal names & cross references
Sources
Regulatory
info
Application
info

www.ctfa.org
 Formulating
Naming Cosmetic Compounds
Chemical Nomenclature Systems
Semisystematic method
Uses common names
Low molecular weight compounds
IUPAC (International) System
The one taught in college
Highly structured
Figure out chemical structure from name
INCI Conventions
Blends both systems
 Formulating
Naming Cosmetic Compounds
CarbonsIUPAC INCI INCI
Main Chain Stem name Fatty acids Fatty alcohols
8 Octane Caprylic Caprylyl
9 Nonane Pelagronic Nonyl
10 Decane Capric Decyl
11 Undecane Undecanoic Undecyl
12 Dodecane Lauric Lauryl
13 Tridecane Tridecanoic Tridecyl
14 Tetradecanoic Myristic Myristyl
15 Pentadecanoic Pentadecanoic Pentadecyl
16 Hexadecanoic Palmitic Cetyl
17 Heptadecanoic Margaric Heptadecyl
18 Octadecane Stearic Stearyl
19 Nonadecane - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
20 Eicosane Arachidic Arachidyl
 Formulating
Naming Cosmetic Compounds
INCI is a little different than IUPAC
Fatty Acids Stems
12 Carbon, straight chain fatty acid
IUPAC its Dodecanoic Acid
INCI its Lauric Acid
Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
16 Carbon, straight chain alcohol
In IUPAC we call it Hexadecanol
In INCI its known as Cetyl Alcohol
 Formulating
INCI System
Source Derived Stems
Most ingredients are not pure but
mixtures
Coconut oil, palm kernel oil,
soybean oil
Ammonium Coco-Sulfate

Cocotrimonium chloride
 Formulating
Fatty Acid Distributions
Acid C Coconut Palm Soybean Tallow Sun Flower
Caproic 6 0.5 - - - -
Caprylic 8 7.0 - - - -
Capric 10 6.0 - - - -
Lauric 12 48.0 - - - -
Myristic 14 19.0 2.0 - 3.5 -
Myristoleic 14 - - - 1.0 -
Pentadecanoic 15 - - - 0.5 -
Palmitic 16 9.0 42.0 11.0 25.3 6.3
Palmitoleic 16 - - - 4.0 -
Margeric 17 - - - 2.5 -
Stearic 18 3.0 4.0 4.0 19.4 4.1
Oleic 18 6.0 43.0 21.0 40.8 22.9
Linoleic 18 1.5 9.0 55.5 2.5 66.0
Linolenic 18 - - 8.5 -
Arachidic 20 - - - - 0.2
Behenic 22
 Formulating
INCI system
Derivatives
Ethers, name both alkyls add ether
an 18 C & 16 C linked by O is Stearyl Cetyl Ether

Esters formed by reacting alcohol with acid

Named in 3 parts
Myristyl Stearate Myristyl alcohol reacted with
Stearic acid
 Formulating
An example

Cetyl Alcohol Palmitic Acid

CH3-(CH2)-14-CH2 - OH HOOC -(CH2)-14-CH3

O
||
CH3-(CH2)14-CH2 O C -(CH2)14-CH3

Cetyl Palmitate
 Formulating
INCI system
Alkanolamides - Alkyl groups
reacted with amino groups
RCO = fatty acid radical
X = -CHR'CH2OH
Y = -H or a lower alkyl group

Examples
DEA diethanolamine
TEA triethanolamine
Cocamide DEA
 Formulating
INCI system
Quaternized materials
Fatty acids linked to an ammonium ion
Maintain a positive charge
add the suffix -ium depending on number of
substitutions
Cetrimonium Chloride
Quaternium & Polyquaternium denoted by arbitrary
numbers
 Formulating
INCI system
Polyquaternium-44
vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized imidazoline
monomers
 Formulating
INCI System - Silicones
Silicones - non-carbon based
ingredients
Dimethicone (Dimethyl
polysiloxane)
Dimethicone copolyol (has
polyoxyethylene groups to improve
water solubility)
Cyclomethicone
Siloxane
Silica SiO2
Varieties of Silicones

Dimethicone Copolyol
 Formulating
INCI System - Polymers
Polymers
PEG (Polyethylene glycol)
PPG (Polypropylene glycol)
Number designates moles of ethylene oxide
Adapted from trade names

Carbomer
Nylon-6
Note: Compounds are often referred to by
their trade names
 Formulating
Colorants

6,6'-(1,4-anthraquinonylenediimino)di-m-toluenesulfonic acid
Green 5 (CI 61570)
disodium salt
 Formulating
Colorants
Colorants
Unwieldy chemical names replaced
FD&C (Food, Drug & Cosmetic)
D&C ext (Drug & Cosmetic external use)
Recently changed to be more global
eg. FD&C Yellow no. 6 is now Yellow 6 (CI 15985)
485 approved colorants for cosmetics
Natural Ingredients
Water
Extracts use latin names (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract )
lanolin, menthol, beeswax, tea tree oil
Perfume is just called Fragrance
 Formulating
List of Ingredients (LOI)
Ingredient Labeling
US Legal requirement
Use standardized names
Proper order
In order above 1%
Below 1% is arbitrary except
Colors at the end
Fragrance allergens
 Formulating
Exercise List of Ingredients

Ingredient Labeling
Where is the 1% line?
Tips:
Fragrance is rarely over 1%
Adjustment ingredients are low
Natural sounding ingredients are lower
 Formulating

Where is the 1% line?

Hair Shampoo formula
Water, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium
Chloride, Cocoamide MEA, Glycol Distearate, Dimethicone, Ammonium
Xylenesulfonate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Milk
Coconut, Fragrance, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyquaternium-10, Sodium Citrate,
Sodium Benzoate, Disodium EDTA, PEG-7M, Citric Acid, Propylene
Glycol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Blue No. 1.

Certainly prior to Vanilla extract

Probably between Gylcol Distearate & Dimethicone
 Formulating

Where is the 1% line?

Hair Conditioner formula
Water (aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone,
Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Alcohol,
Wheat Germ Oil (triticum vulgare), Hydrolyzed Silk, Panthenol,
Tocopheryl Acetate, Jojoba Oil (buxus chinensis), Aloe Barbadensis
Leaf Juice, Fragrance, Propylene Glycol, Methylparaben,
Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Citric Acid, Red 33, Blue 1

Body Wash
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Acrylates
Copolymer, Fragrance, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Citric Acid,
Oxidized Polyethylene, Sea Salt, Sodium Benzoate, Polyquaternium 10,
Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
Methylisothiazolinone, Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide

Should be Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

Cosmetic Raw Materials
 Cosmetic Raw Materials
Surfactants
Conditioning ingredients
Polymers
Preservatives
Fragrances
Colorants
Claims ingredients
Most were discussed previously in first, second or third lectures
 Formulating
Conditioning Agents
Definition/Description
Any material that improves the condition of
biological surfaces

Substantivity
Resistance to rinse-off
Conditioning agents stay on the surface
Water insoluble or electrostatic
 Formulating
Conditioning Agents
Hair Conditioners
Makes hair easier to comb
Improve shine, feel, & manageability
Hair strength

Skin Conditioners (Moisturizers)

Reduce dryness, flaking
Soften
Protect from sun, wind, detergents...
 Conditioner
What Does It Do?
Smoothes cuticle to improves hairs condition
Improves combing, manageability, smoothness, and
shine

Before, cuticles are lifted and After, cuticles are tight and
rough smoother
 Formulating
Types of Conditioning Agents

Cationic Surfactants (Quats)

*Cationic Polymers
*Emollients
*Humectants
*Occlusives

*Most of these were discussed previously in first and third lecture

 Formulating
Quaternized Ammonium Compounds
(Quats) Cationic Surfactants
Ammonium Salts
Long chain from 12 to 22 carbons. Oily
 Formulating
Quaternized Ammonium Compounds
Examples
Amines
Cetrimonium Chloride
Stearalkonium Chloride

How they condition

 Formulating
Quaternized Ammonium Compounds

On the surface
Hair cuticle is smoothed
Softer feel
Easier to Comb
Less Static
Some issues with irritation
Generally incompatible with anionics...
Cosmetic Chemistry Quiz #1
Which ingredient is NOT currently used in
cosmetics?

Cow Dung

Sheep placenta

Whale Semen

Chicken bone marrow

Formulating
 Formulating
Product Definition
Physical Parameters
Aesthetic Considerations
Performance
Packaging
Operational Issues
Cost
 Formulating
The process
Starting Formulation
Make Test Batches
Test prototypes
 Formulating
Starting Formulations
How Do You Begin?
Experience
Supplier Formularies
Reference Texts
de Navarre series
Bennet formulary
Check patent literature, monthly trade journals
Peer Advice
Competitive Research
 Formulating
Competitive research
Look at the LOI of competitive products
Use the 1% line exercise to guess at
formula
Sources of LOI and claims information
http://drugstore.com
http://ulta.com
 Formulating
Starting Formulations
Work within product constraints
Consider Formula Cost
Production capability
Regulatory issues
Global formulations...
 Types of formulas:
Solutions
Simplest formulation
Homogenous mixture of ingredients
Applications
Shampoo
Body wash
Hand cleanser
Cologne
Bath oils...
 Types of formulas:
Emulsions Making Them
Talked about these last week
Formulation
Oil and Water Phase are mixed separately
Oil phase is heated
to melt waxes & fatty alcohols
Mixed with surfactants
Cooled while being agitated
this makes the appropriate particle size
 Types of formulas:
Emulsions

Applications
Hand creams
Make up
Hair conditioners
Shaving cream
Sunscreens...
 Types of formulas:
Gels
Gels
Solid or semi solid materials in colloidal state
Semi liquid products dispensed from a tube
Single phase
Clear products
Shear thinning
when force is applied they get thinner
Like ketchup
 Types of formulas:
Gels
Gelling agents 3 types
Acrylic Polymers
Carbomer
Thickens when polymeric chains chemically bond
Natural gums
Water swellable materials
Oil swellable materials for anhydrous gels
Cellulosics
Hydroxymethylcellulose
 Types of formulas:
Gels
Formulation
Gelling agent causes thickening
Added at the end
Reduces bubbling
Typically, good stability
 Types of formulas:
Gels
Applications
Hair gels
Body care
Shower gels
Facial care
Shaving gel
Oral care
toothpaste...
 Types of formulas:
Sticks
Sticks
Solid delivery form
Delivers insoluble actives
Good for products you dont want to touch
Packaging is important
Actives are delivered by rubbing action
 Types of formulas:
Sticks
Four types of sticks

Wax & oil mixtures

Beeswax or Carnuaba
Pigment delivery
Solidified soaps
Propylene glycol with sodium stearate
Fragrance delivery
 Types of formulas:
Sticks
Four types of sticks

Fatty alcohols with volatile silicones

Stearyl Alcohol with Cyclomethicone
Silicone improves feel
Dibenzylidene sorbitol
Gelling agent that creates clear sticks
 Types of formulas:
Sticks
Manufacture 2 ways
Pre-molding method
Hot fill method

Applications
Lipsticks
Fragrance sticks
Antiperspirants/Deodorants...
 Types of formulas:
Aerosols
Aerosols
Gaseous suspension of colloidal particles
Classic college example is fog or ocean mist
Self-contained pressurized
spray system
Developed during WWII
deliver insect repellant
Hairsprays introduced
late 1940s
 Types of formulas:
Aerosols
Applications
Hairsprays
Shaving creams
Anitperspirants
Deodorants
 Types of formulas:
Aerosols
Four Primary Components
Outer Packaging (Can)
Valve system
Active Ingredients
Propellant
 Types of formulas:
Aerosols Packaging

Outer Packaging
Tin plate cans
3 pieces of steel
Crown (top)
Cylinder (body)
Base (bottom)
coated with epoxy
Aluminum cans
One-piece construction
 Types of formulas:
Aerosols Packaging
Valve
Diptube
Polyethylene
Valve body
Main piece
Actuator
Connects to stem
Housing
valve cup
 Types of formulas:
Aerosols Formulations
Concentrate Chemistry
Active ingredients
Solvents (water/alcohol)
Propellant
Hydrocarbons
Hydrofluorocarbons
Dimethyl ether
Compressed gas
 Types of formulas:
Aerosols Forms
Product forms
Solutions
Emulsions
Powder Dispersions
Foaming Gels
Aerosol Alternatives
Non-aerosols
Pump sprays...
 Chemistry Quiz #2

Which one is the FAKE beauty gadget?

Wand that shoots oxygen into your skin to smooth,

tone & stimulate

Hand held laser that makes your hair grow

Electronic headband that relaxes muscles to

remove wrinkles

Ceramic unipolar magnet that controls acne

Creating formulas
 Creating Formulas
Preparing Test Batches
Prepare!
Identify Raw Materials
Document Manufacturing Procedure
Use lab notebooks
Print out batch sheets
Get Raw materials
Check Equipment
 Creating Formulas
Preparing Test Batches
Its just like following a recipe.
instead of eggs, milk & flour
we use SLS, Cocamidopropyl betaine,
DMDM Hydantoin
Identify Raw Materials
Learn trade & INCI names
Know why material is used
Physical form - liquid, solid
Special Handling (MSDS)
 Creating Formulas
Preparing Test Batches
Review the manufacturing procedure
Assemble the equipment
mixers, mills, balances, heating & cooling
Special equipment
Homogenizers for thick products
Record the Specifications!
 Creating Formulas
Preparing Test Batches
Before you make the batch
Print out batch sheets

Perry's Fabulous Formula Date:__________

Batch Code 2458-0025 ENTER BATCH SIZE = 10000

ITEM # LOT # Code# DESCRIPTION WT % WT Actual Time Temp

---------- ---------- -------------- ---------- ---------- ----------- ------------- -------------- ---------- ---------- ----------
1 _____ DW9034 DEIONIZED WATER 65.00% 6500.00 _____ _____ _____
2 _____ SD5162 Raw Material #1 30.00% 3000.00 _____ _____ _____
3 _____ GL5007 Raw Material #2 4.40% 440.00 _____ _____ _____
4 _____ xxx Preservative, color, etc q.s q.s. _____ _____ _____
 Creating Formulas
Preparing Test Batches
Make a trial batch
Keep batch notes
Times, temperature, changes
Evaluate/Test
Should match specifications
pH
Viscosity
Appearance / odor
Emulsions should be homogenous
Formula should function properly
 Creating Formulas
Preparing Test Batches
Make Adjustments
pH can be adjusted with acid or base
In some systems, viscosity can be adjusted
with salt
Some batches you just pitch!

Repeat, Repeat, Repeat...

 Creating Formulas :

Scale up
Problems to watch out for:
Compositional Deviations
Processing Changes
Mixing conditions
Heat Transfer
Raw Material Variations
Salt content
Chemical Activity
 Creating Formulas
It works! Now What?
Stability Testing
Evaluate Filling Equipment
Establish Packaging

Congratulations! You are a cosmetic

chemist
 Cosmetic Chemistry Quiz #3
Which one is the FALSE headline?

Rich people are more prone to skin cancer

Prolonged use of muscle pain cream can kill you

You can become addicted to tanning

Your skin is home to over 182 species of mites

Free Entry for first 5 people
Who contact

Scott Wenzel
(920) 721 - 5752

[email protected]
 Formulating
Summary
Reviewed chemical nomenclature
Common raw materials
Formulation types
Batching & testing

Thanks!
 Formulating
Questions

http://justyouraveragejoggler.com