Creams Custards
Creams Custards
Creams Custards
Contents
Creams, Custards and Puddings -------------------------------------- 1 Contents ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 Creams, Custards and Puddings --------------------------------------- 3 Sugar Cooking --------------------------------------------------------------- 4 Stages of Sugar Cooking -------------------------------------------------- 5 Basic Custards, Creams and --------------------------------------------- 6 Crme Anglaise (Vanilla Custard Sauce) ----------------------------- 7
Chocolate Pastry Cream ---------------------------------------------------- 9 Coffee Pastry Cream --------------------------------------------------------10 Cream Pie Fillings ----------------------------------------------------------- 11 Coconut Cream Pie Filling ------------------------------------------------ 12 Banana Cream Pie Filling ------------------------------------------------- 13 Chocolate Cream Pie Filling ---------------------------------------------- 14 Lemon Pie Filling ------------------------------------------------------------ 15
Crme Caramel -------------------------------------------------------------- 21 Puddings ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 22 Baked Pudding --------------------------------------------------------------- 23 (Baked Rice Pudding) ------------------------------------------------------ 23 Bread and Butter Pudding ------------------------------------------------- 24
t's all much simpler than it seems. Once you have learned three basic preparationsvanilla custard sauce, pastry cream, and baked custard you will have learned most of the rest. Vanilla custard sauce, also called creme anglaise (krem awng-glezz) or English cream, is the basis for bavarians, ice cream, and some dessert sauces. Pastry cream, with a variety of flavorings, is also used for pie fillings and puddings. Many baked puddings are baked custard with added starch or fruit ingredients. There seems little point in giving you recipes for cream pie fillings in the pie section, a recipe for pastry cream filling for napoleons in the puff pastry section, and recipes for boiled puddings in the pudding section, and never tell you that they are all basically the same preparation. You are not just learning a collection of unrelated recipes; you are learning to cook and to understand what you are cooking.
Sugar Cooking
After reading this chapter, you should be able to 1. Cook sugar syrups to various stages of hardness. 2. Prepare vanilla custard sauce, pastry cream, and baked custard. 3. Prepare starch-thickened puddings and baked puddings.
Sugar Cooking
Understanding sugar cooking is important in the preparation of desserts and confections because sugar syrups of various strengths are often required (see, for example, Italian Meringue). BASIC PRINCIPLES The principle of sugar cooking is fairly simple: a solution of syrup of sugar and water is boiled to evaporate part of the water. As the water is boiled off, the temperature of the syrup gradually rises. When all the water has evaporated, what you have left is melted sugar. The sugar will then begin to caramelize or turn brown and change flavor. If heating continues, the sugar will continue to darken and then burn. A syrup cooked to a high temperature will be harder when it is cooled than will a syrup cooked to a lower temperature. For example, a syrup cooked to 240F (115C) will form a soft ball when cooled. A syrup cooked to 300F (150C) will be hard and brittle when cooled. One pint (450 ml) of water is enough to dissolve and cook 3 to 4 lb of sugar. There is no point in adding more water than is necessary, because you just have to boil it off again. SIMPLE SYRUP Simple syrup is a solution of equal weights of sugar and water. For example, combine 1 pt of water and 1 lb of granulated sugar in a saucepan, stir, and bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar. Cool the syrup. Dessert syrup is a flavored simple syrup used to moisten and flavor some cakes . (Many chefs use 2 or 3 parts water to 1 part sugar for a less sweet syrup.) Flavorings may be extracts, such as vanilla, or liquors, such as rum or kirsch. Add flavorings after the syrup has cooled, because flavor may be lost if they are added to hot syrup. Syrups may also be flavored by boiling them with lemon or orange rind. Graininess is a common fault in many candies and desserts. Graininess results when cooked sugar crystallizes or turns to tiny sugar crystals rather than staying dissolved in the syrup. If even one sugar crystal comes in contact with a cooked syrup, it can start a chain reaction that turns the whole thing into a mass of sugar crystals. To avoid crystallization during the first stages of boiling, use one of the following techniques. 1. Wash down the sides of the saucepan with a brush dipped in water. This will remove crystals that may "seed" the whole batch. 2. When first bringing the syrup to a boil, cover the pan and boil for several minutes. Condensed steam will wash down the sides of the pan. Uncover and finish cooking without stirring. Sometimes an acid such as cream of tartar is added to a syrup before cooking. Acids change some of the sugar to invert sugar, which resists crystallizing. Corn syrup is sometimes added for the same reason.
STAGES OF SUGAR COOKING Stage Testing the temperature with a candy thermometer is the most accurate way to determine the desired doneness of a syrup. In the old days, syrups were tested by dropping a little syrup into a bowl of cold water and checking the hardness of the cooled sugar. The stages of doneness were given names that described their hardness. Table 1.1 lists these stages of sugar cooking. Thread Soft Ball Firm Ball Hard Ball Small Crack Crack Hard Crack Caramel
Temperature F 230 240 245 250-260 265-270 275-280 290-310 320-340 C 110 115 118 122-127 130-132 135-138 143-155 160-170
Crme Anglaise (Vanilla Custard Sauce) & Chocolate Crme Anglaise Recipes
Crme Anglaise (Vanilla Custard Sauce)
Ingredients: Amount 12 240 1 10 Procedure: 1. Combine the egg yolks and sugar in a stainless-steel bowl. Whip until thick and light. 2. Scald the milk in boiling water both or over direct heat. 3. Very gradually pour the scalded milk into the egg yolk mixture while stirring constantly with the whip. 4. Set the bowl over simmering water. Heat it slowly, stirring constantly, until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon (or until it reaches 185F/85C). 5. Immediately remove the bowl from the heat and set it in a pan of cool water. Stir in the vanilla. Stir the sauce occasionally as it cools. Unit each gr Lt ml Ingredients Egg yolks Sugar Milk Vanilla Preparation
Pastry Cream
PASTRY CREAM
Although it requires more ingredients and steps, pastry cream is easier to make than custard because it is less likely to curdle. Pastry cream contains a starch thickening agent that stabilizes the eggs. It can actually be boiled without curdling. In fact, it must be brought to a boil, or the starch will not cook completely and the cream will have a raw, starchy taste. Strict observance of all sanitation rules is essential when preparing pastry cream, because of the danger of bacterial contamination. Use clean, sanitized equipment. Do not put your fingers in the cream, and do not taste except with a clean spoon. Chill the finished cream rapidly in shallow pans. Keep the cream and all cream filled products refrigerated at all times. The procedure for preparing pastry cream is given in the following recipe. Note that the basic steps are similar to those for custard sauce. In this case, however, a starch is mixed with the eggs and half the sugar to make a smooth paste. (In some recipes with lower egg content, it is necessary to add a little cold milk to provide enough liquid to make a paste.) Meanwhile, the milk is scalded with the other half of the sugar (the sugar helps protect the milk from scorching on the bottom of the pan). The egg mixture is then tempered with some of the hot milk and then returned to the kettle and brought to a boil. Some chefs prefer to add the cold paste gradually to the hot milk, but the tempering procedure given here seems to give better protection against lumping and curdling.
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Vanilla Puddings
Vanilla Pudding
Ingredients: Amount 480 2 8 4 75 120 30 Procedure: 1. In a heavy saucepan, dissolve half the sugar in the milk and bring just to a boil. 2. With a whip beat the egg yolks and whole eggs in a stainless-steel bowl. 3. Sift the starch and remaining sugar into the egg. Beat with the whip until perfectly smooth. 4. Temper the egg mixture by slowly beating in the hot milk in a thin stream. 5. Return the mixture to the heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. 6. When the mixture comes to a boil and thickens, remove from the heat. 7. Stir in the butter and vanilla. Mix until the butter is melted and completely blended in. 8. Pour into a clean, sanitized hotel pan or other shallow pan. Dust lightly with sugar and cover with waxed paper to keep a crust from forming. Cool and chill as quickly as possible. 9. For filling pastries such as clairs and napoleons, whip the chilled pastry cream until smooth before using. Unit gr Lt each each gr gr ml Ingredients Sugar Milk Egg yolks Whole eggs Cornstarch Butter Vanilla Preparation
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Coconut Pudding
Coconut Pudding
Ingredients: Amount 480 2 8 4 75 120 30 250 Procedure: 1. In a heavy saucepan, dissolve half the sugar in the milk and bring just to a boil. 2. With a whip beat the egg yolks and whole eggs in a stainless-steel bowl. 3. Sift the starch and remaining sugar into the egg. Beat with the whip until perfectly smooth. 4. Temper the egg mixture by slowly beating in the hot milk in a thin stream. 5. Return the mixture to the heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. 6. When the mixture comes to a boil and thickens, remove from the heat. 7. Stir in the butter, vanilla and unsweetened coconut. Mix until the butter is melted and completely blended in. 8. Pour into a clean, sanitized hotel pan or other shallow pan. Dust lightly with sugar and cover with waxed paper to keep a crust from forming. Cool and chill as quickly as possible. 9. For filling pastries such as clairs and napoleons, whip the chilled pastry cream until smooth before using. NOTE: Quantities for four 20-cm pies. Unit gr Lt each each gr gr ml gr Ingredients Sugar Milk Egg yolks Whole eggs Cornstarch Butter Vanilla Unsweetened coconut toasted Preparation
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Chocolate Pudding
Chocolate Pudding
Ingredients: Amount 480 2 8 4 75 120 30 125 125 Procedure: 1. In a heavy saucepan , dissolve half the sugar in the milk and bring just to a boil. 2. With a whip beat the egg yolks and whole eggs in a stainless-steel bowl. 3. Sift the starch and remaining sugar into the egg. Beat with the whip until perfectly smooth. 4. Temper the egg mixture by slowly beating in the hot milk in a thin stream. 5. Return the mixture to the heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. 6. When the mixture comes to a boil and thickens, remove from the heat. 7. Stir in the butter and vanilla. Mix until the butter is melted and completely blended in. 8. Melt together sweetened chocolate and unsweetened chocolate. Stir into the hot pastry cream. 9. Pour into a clean, sanitized hotel pan or other shallow pan. Dust lightly with sugar and cover with waxed paper to keep a crust from forming. Cool and chill as quickly as possible. 10. For filling pastries such as clairs and napoleons, whip the chilled pastry cream until smooth before using. Unit gr Lt each each gr gr ml gr gr Ingredients Sugar Milk Egg yolks Whole eggs Cornstarch Butter Vanilla Sweetened chocolate Unsweetened chocolate melt together melt together Preparation
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Baked Custard
Baked custard is a mixture of eggs, milk, sugar, and flavorings, which is baked until the eggs coagulate and the custard is set. A good custard holds a clean, sharp edge when cut. The following recipe gives the procedure for making baked custard. Note these points in particular: 1. Scald the milk before beating it slowly into the eggs. This reduces cooking time and helps the product cook more evenly. 2. Remove any foam that would mar the appearance of the finished product. 3. Bake at 325F (165C). High temperatures increase the risk of overcooking and curdling. 4. Bake in a water bath, so that the outside edges are not overcooked before the inside is set. 5. To test for doneness, insert a thin bladed knife about an inch or two from the center. If it comes out clean, the custard is done. The center may not be completely set, but it will continue to cook in its own heat after removal from the oven.
Baked Custard
Ingredients: Amount 600 240 5 15 600 500 Procedure: 1. Combine the eggs, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a mixing bowl. Mix until thoroughly blended, but do not whip. 2. Scald the milk and heavy cream in a double boiler or in a saucepan over low heat. 3. Gradually pour the milk into the egg mixture, stirring constantly. 4. Skim off all foam from the surface of the liquid. 5. Arrange custard cups in a shallow baking pan. (Butter the insides of the cups if the custards are to be unmolded.) 6. Carefully pour the custard mixture into the cups. If any bubbles form during this step, skim them off. 7. Set the baking pan on the oven shelf. Pour enough hot water into the pan around the cups so that the level of the water is about as high as the level of the custard mixture. 8. Bake at 325F (165C) until set, about 45 minutes. 9. Carefully remove from the oven and cool. Store, covered, in refrigerator. Unit gr gr gr ml ml ml Ingredients Eggs Sugar Salt Vanilla Milk Heavy cream Preparation
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Crme Caramel
Crme Caramel
Ingredients: Amount 375 60 -----600 240 5 15 600 500 Procedure: For Caramel: 1. Cook 375 gr sugar and 60 ml water until it caramelizes. 2. Be sure the cups are clean and dry. 3. Line the bottoms of the custard cups with the hot caramel, let it cool. 4. Fill with custard and bake recipe. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Unit gr ml ---gr gr gr ml ml ml Eggs Sugar Salt Vanilla Milk Heavy cream Ingredients Sugar Water ------------------------Preparation for caramel for caramel ------------------------------
For Crme Caramel 1. Combine the eggs, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a mixing bowl. Mix until thoroughly blended, but do not whip. 2. Scald the milk and heavy cream in a double boiler or in a saucepan over low heat. 3. Gradually pour the milk into the egg mixture, stirring constantly. 4. Skim off all foam from the surface of the liquid. 5. Arrange custard cups in a shallow baking pan. (Butter the insides of the cups if the custards are to be unmolded.) 6. Carefully pour the custard mixture into the cups. If any bubbles form during this step, skim them off. 7. Set the baking pan on the oven shelf. Pour enough hot water into the pan around the cups so that the level of the water is about as high as the level of the custard mixture. 8. Bake at 325F (165C) until set, about 45 minutes. 9. Carefully remove from the oven and cool. Store, covered, in refrigerator.
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Puddings
Puddings
Two kinds of puddings, starch-thickened and baked, are the most frequently prepared in food service kitchens. These are the types we will discuss here. A third type, steamed pudding, is less often served, and then mainly in cold weather, because steamed puddings are usually rather heavy and filling.
STARCH-THICKENED PUDDINGS These are also called boiled puddings, because they are boiled in order to cook the starch that thickens them. 1. Cornstarch pudding or blanc mange. Cornstarch pudding consists of milk, sugar, and flavorings, thickened with cornstarch (or sometimes another starch). If enough cornstarch is used, the hot mixture may be poured into molds, chilled, and unmolded for service. 2. Cream puddings. Cream puddings, as you learned in the previous section, are the same as pastry cream. Puddings are usually made with less starch, however, and may contain any of several flavoring ingredients, such as coconut or chocolate. Butterscotch pudding is given its flavor by using brown sugar instead of white sugar. If you will look again at the recipe for Vanilla Pastry Cream, you will see that the only difference between cornstarch puddings and cream puddings is that the latter contain eggs. In fact, cream puddings may be made by stirring hot cornstarch pudding into beaten eggs and then heating the entire mixture to just below the simmer. Care must be taken to avoid curdling the eggs if this method is used.
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Baked Pudding
Rice Pudding
Ingredients: Amount 240 1.5 1 0.25 1 2 240 240 as needed Procedure: 1. Combine the rice, milk, vanilla, and salt in a heavy saucepan. Cover and simmer over very low heat until the rice is tender, about 30 minutes. Stir occasionally to be sure the mixture doesn't scorch on the bottom. Remover from heat when cooked. 2. Combine the eggs, yolks, sugar, and cream in a mixing bowl. Mix until evenly combined. 3. Ladle some of the hot milk from the cooked rice into this mixture and mix well. Then very slowly stir the egg mixture back into the hot rice. 4. Pour into a buttered baking pan, 12 20 in. (30 50 cm). Sprinkle the top with cinnamon. 5. Bake in a water bath at 175C for 30-40 minutes, until set, Serve warm or chilled. Unit g L tsp tsp each each g ml --Ingredients Rice (medium or long grain) Milk Vanilla Salt Whole eggs Egg yolks Sugar Light cream Cinnamon Preparation
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5. Pastry cream
6. Blanc mange 7. Cream pudding 8. Baked pudding
1. How can you avoid unwanted crystallization when cooking sugar syrups? 2. Light custard sauce and pastry cream both contain eggs. Why is it possible to boil pastry cream but not custard sauce? 3. Explain the importance of sanitation in the production of pastry cream. What specific steps should you take to ensure a safe product? 4. Light custard sauce, pastry cream, and baked custard are made with basic techniques that are also used for the following preparations. Identify which of the three techniques is used for each. Coconut cream pie French vanilla ice cream Baked rice pudding Pumpkin pie Butterscotch pudding Custard pie Chocolate bavarian Lemon meringue pie
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