Textile waste recycling: An innovative Creativity for Entrepreneurial Sustainability in Nigeria

Textile Waste Recycling: An Innovative Creativity for

Entrepreneurial Sustainability in Nigeria.

Udeani, N. A.

Abstract
Waste management is a global discuss due to its devastating effects on the environment.
Human and industrial waste are always diverted to landfill which on the other hand has
deteriorated the ecosystem. Waste, which is categorized under solid, liquid and gas, is
drawn from all angels of the industrialization and thus industries can be termed “the mother
of waste”. Report has shown that textile and clothing manufacturing industries are ranked to
be one of the most polluting industries in the world. The pollution comes in not only during
textile processing and production but also under the consumption of textiles. The fact that
textile waste generation is highly influenced by the production of textile goods, means that
more waste will continually be generated as more of these goods find their way to the
society every day. In combating this problem, textile industry has taken some measures in
the form of Reuse, Reduce and Recycle (3R). Although these to an extent brought a
measure of relief to landfill, it is still not enough to tackle the obvious overpowering effect of
textile waste. This research, traces how textile waste is managed from pre – post textile
production as creative innovation. It focuses on exploration and experimentation into the
various waste in the creation of artistic items through innovative creative methods which will
enhance the reduction of textile wastes as well as change these wastes to wealth and most
importantly divert these wastes from landfill. To this fact, innovative methods using braiding,
weaving, patchwork, crocheting, stitching and or their combinations were explored using
some of these textile waste to produce artistic pieces in form of tapestry, mobiles, rugs,
hangings and more attention will be towards solid waste management as an entrepreneurial
sustainability in Nigeria.

Keywords: Innovation, Landfill, Textile waste, Recycling, Reuse and Reduce

Introduction deforestation and burning fossil fuels create

The devastating effects of textile waste on a barrier that traps the sun's heat on the
the environment all over the world has been Earth causing the planet to warm up
for long an issue that is so worrisome due (get.smarter.com 2015). Investigations by
to its contribution in the global climate fiber2fashion.com (2015) reveals that, the
warming. Global warming refers to the thickening layer of carbon-dioxide and other
gradual increase in the temperature of the gases trap the heat of the atmosphere and
Earth's surface, atmosphere and oceans as
a result of greenhouse gases.

Carbon monoxide emissions created by that carbon-dioxide is responsible for more

Department of Industrial Design, Modibbo Adama University of Technology (MAUTECH) Yola.

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than 80 percent of global warming. It is a dyes and chemicals in fabric and other
general knowledge that global warming has components of clothing and shoes that can
such a negative impact on lives at various leach into the soil, contaminating both
levels right from atmosphere, to economic, surface and groundwater. To this effect,
environmental and health of all living individuals, government and non –
beings. governmental organizations are involved in
The occurrence of constant flooding due to various research to proffer solution to this
the increase of sea level caused by the global problem. Landfills are waste disposal
continual melting of ice as a result of sites for solid waste from human activities.
increased heat is one of many significant Diverting these wastes from landfills has
impact of global warming. Others such as become one of the sustainable issues
the forceful heat wave may result to wildfire facing the industry a success of which can
and droughts. Deforestation and burning help minimize land, water, and air pollution.
fossil fuel, very prominent in Africa Textile industry on the other hand has taken
generally and particularly Nigeria create the some measures in the form of reuse,
danger of desertification that came from reduce and recycle (referred to as 3R)
disintegration of soil particles due to the through the use of technology in combating
reduction of Soil Organic Matter (SOM) and this problem.
the subsequent emission of gas into the
atmosphere consequently causing leaching Textile Recycling - Reuse, Reduce and
of the soil. This consequently will bring Recycle.
about the disruption of the ecosystem which Textile waste generation is highly
may put some species to extinction. Health influenced by the production of textile
wise, diseases may spread across the goods. This means that more waste will
globe, for instance disease like continually be generated as more of these
meningococcal meningitis which is most goods find their way to the society every
commonly found in West Africa is believed day. Tanya and Katty (1997) identified three
to have been caused by dry and dusty categories of textile and apparel waste in
environment. In 1996, an outbreak of this textile waste lifecycle as post-producers
disease recorded 250,000 cases and 25, waste generated by manufacturers, pre-
000 deaths in Nigeria (WHO, 2003). Textile consumer waste generated by retailers, and
industries negative contribution in this post-consumer waste generated by the
climate change comes from the intensive public. In combating this problem, textile
use of different varieties of chemicals industry has taken some measures in the
ranging from dyes to transfer agents during form of reduce, reuse, and recycle all
the production of textile goods. For this, termed recycling. Recycling is the act of
textile industry have been accused of being using or reusing of some objects or
one of the most polluting industry. Waste materials that has already been used so
generation is not only during production but that it can be used again. According to
also at consumption level which always find Wang in Gwari, and Zuwahu (2009) there is
their way to landfill. an increasing amount of waste that is being
In some developed countries such as generated each year from textile (including
America, a total of 13.1 million tons of carpets and clothing). Merriam Webster
textile and clothing are discarded and only (2016) described recycling as a process in
about 15% were reclaimed while the rest order to regain or reuse material and this
were dumped in landfill (Wallander, 2012). definition is the focus of this research.
Research has shown that decomposing Recycling is one out of many measures the
clothing releases methane, a harmful textile industries all over the globe use to
greenhouse gas and a significant combat the negative contribution imposed
contributor to global warming. There are by the production of textile goods. This

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measure consists of reuse as well as 2009).Although if thoroughly examined,

reproduction. Reuse allows materials in waste can be redefined to be a potential
their original form to be used severally or reusable resource for others in that an item
pass those materials to others who could discarded by one party may be useful or of
use them instead of discarding under one much value to another.
use. Reduce involves limiting purchases The Environmental Protection Authority
and accumulation; consequently reducing (EPA, 2009) while re-examining waste
the amount of waste produced. Recycling standard terminology status of industries
generally refers to processing, treating or came up with varying definitions as it
converting an object into reusable concerns various industries. It defined the
materials. Although these to an extent will solid waste generated by the glass fibre
bring a measure of relief to landfill, it is still manufacturing industry as any discarded,
not enough to tackle the obvious rejected, abandoned, unwanted or surplus
overpowering effect of textile waste. This matter, whether or not intended for sale or
paper therefore will investigate various for recycling, reprocessing, recovery or
innovative methods of translating these purification by a separate operation from
waste into wealth using solid waste that which produced the matter or anything
management in creation of especially declared by regulation (after consultation
decorative household materials for self- under section 5A) or by an environment
sustainability and development. protection policy to be waste, whether of
value or not as defined in the EPA Act of
Textile Waste 1993.Business dictionary evaluated and
Textile has been defined as “all materials described waste in line with market value. It
that can be or have been formed into yarns defined it as unwanted material left over
or fabricated into cloth” (Udeani, 2002). from production process, or output which
Idoko (2011) also defined textile as any has no marketable value
material produced through the process of (businessdictionary.com, 2015). It also
interlacing of fabrics. Therefore, textile is further described waste as material
mainly concerned with fabrics and the discharged to, deposited in, or emitted to an
materials from which they are made. These environment in such amount or manner that
materials are so termed either in processing causes a harmful change. Waste definition
of their raw materials into yarn or in their has been extended to processes or
method of construction such as knitting, materials that does not (from viewpoint of
braiding, felting, bonding or by lamination. the consumer) add value to a good or
Generally therefore, textile can be services and waste generation as quantity
described as any material which method of of materials or products that enter a waste
production involves one or a combination of stream before composting, incinerating,
the aforementioned processes. Waste on landfilling, or recycling. Essentially to this
the other hand has been defined from many study, waste will be looked at in line with
different angles ranging from leftover, Tanya and Katty (1997)’s definition which is
surplus, excess, unused, unwanted, left over or superfluous, as excess material
discarded or even as remainder or spare. or by – products, anything rejected or
Tanya and Kathy (1997) defines it as the useless, worthless or unwanted.as this is
left over or superfluous, as excess material highly generated in textile. The above
or by – products, anything rejected or understanding creates forum for a simple
useless, worthless or unwanted. It has also definition of textile waste.
been defined as any product or substance Textile waste therefore is textile material
that has no further use or value for the that is deemed unsuitable for its original
person or organization that owns it, and purpose by the owner and is therefore
which is, or will be discarded (waste unwanted and discarded. Textile waste can
management, 2006 in Caulfield, include fashion and textile industrial waste

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created during fiber, and clothing production waste’. Most often pre-consumer waste is
and consumer waste created during use referred to as waste generated in the
and disposal. It has been reported that fashion supply chain before the textile
about 10 – 20% of all textiles in the fashion reached the consumer. Technically, waste
industry are estimated to be waste. About has been analyzed by some authors as an
15% of fabric intended for clothing ends up indication of inefficient design, production
on the cutting room floor. To this fact, textile and consumption patterns (Steinbring and
waste occupies nearly 5% of all landfill Rucker 2003, Agrawal, Barhanpurkar and
space (Textile Exchange, 2015). It is also Joshi, 2013, Textile Exchange, 2015). With
reported that although textile products and this analogy, the following wastes emanate
consumer goods produce huge waste, from pre-consumer waste that is of great
about 95% of these wastes are recyclable importance to this study. Such are;
(wastes2015.org), but out of which only
15% has been recycled.Fiber2fashon i) Textile swatch waste – is left over
(2015) industrial report states that more textile sample.
than 1 million tons of textile are thrown ii) Cut-and- saw textile waste – is textile
away each year out of which 50 percent are scraps generated during garment
recyclable. The fact that more than 50% of manufacturing.
textile waste is recyclable means a huge iii) End- of- roll textile waste- is factory
opportunity for millions of job seekers. surplus textile waste left over on the
Waste from textile and clothing industries textile rolls from garment
originates from the community through manufacturing.
several means such as fibre, garment and iv) Sampling yardage waste- is factory
shoe manufacturing industry, consumers, surplus sample textile that have been
the commercial and service industries. The left over from sample manufacturing.
categorization by Tanya and Katty (1997) v) Damaged textile waste- is unfinished
created a good ground for the in-depth textiles that have been left over from
study of textile waste in form of pre- textile sampling manufacturing which
consumer, post-consumer and post- has been damaged by either colour or
producer or industrial textile waste. print defects.
vi) Clothing sampling waste- is part-
Pre-consumer textile waste is finished or finished clothing sample
manufacturing waste that has not reached from the design and production of
the consumer. It is in fact a waste clothing which have not been worn by
generated by textile retailers. According to consumers.
Caulifield (2009) it is manufacturing waste vii) Finished clothing waste- is unsold
that is generated by processing fibre, finished clothing that has not yet been
(natural or synthetic) and the production of worn.
finished yarn and textiles, technical textiles,
non-woven garments and footwear, In Nigerian textile waste seem to be the
including cut-offs, selvages, shearing’s, major item in the landfill. This is due to the
rejected materials and or B-grade huge number of bales of second hand
garments. Fiber2fashion (2015) described clothing that find their way into the country
pre-consumer waste as the by-product needless to say the wastes from our tailors’
materials from the textile, fibre and cotton and seamstress’s shops. Gwary and
industries that are remanufactured for the Zuwahu (2009), reported that visiting our
automotive aeronautic, home building tailor’s shops one finds a lot of littered
furniture mattress, coarse yarn, home pieces of waste fabric of assorted patterns.
furnishing, paper, apparel and other They suggested that these waste fabrics
industries. Pre-textile waste is usually ‘clean can be converted into products like pillows

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and pillow cases, duvet local rugs/foot materials were used in the execution of this
mats, collage, puffs or bean bags. projects.
This research will therefore involve mostly
the recycling of pre-consumer textile wastes Weaving
especially the textile scraps generated According to Colchester (1993) and
during garment manufacturing (cut and sew Chetwynd (1975) in Alau, (2000), connotes
textile waste) to demonstrate innovative the traditional technology of producing any
creativity for entrepreneurial sustainability in web material, embracing fabric
Nigeria. construction, matting and basketry. The
dictionary of Thesaurus (2016) defines
weaving as a means of forming
Materials and Methods (objects)bycombiningvariouselementsordet
The method used in carrying out this ailsintoaconnectedwhole.In the textile
research is innovatively creative and industry, weaving is one of the commonest,
experimental method which is highly oldest and universal methods of fabric
explorative in an artist’s studio. Conversion production through which man satisfies his
of textile waste to new products (recycling) needs of clothing, furnishing, and ritual
is the major problem the entire textile, expressions. According to Alau (2000),
clothing and shoe industries are facing textile weaving provides fabrics for clothing
presently. It is a glowing feeling that lot has and furnishing. It is the process of
been done on this issue as almost 75 % of producing fabrics through the use of looms
the pre-consumer textile waste that is which may be hand, motorized or non-
generated is diverted from our landfills and motorised looms on which warps and wefts
recycled. Companies use methods like are manipulated. This is achieved through
shoddy and mongoose for knitted and interlacing them into webs. Weaving in this
woven fabrics respectively to convert textile study was mainly out of loom practice.
waste to new products. These are methods
used to breakdown fabrics to fibre through Braiding
cutting, shredding, carding and other Braiding or plaiting involves twisting
mechanical processes. threads together into cloth. Knotting
involves tying threads together and is
Entrepreneurially, artistic creations can be used in making macramé. In braiding,
done within the immediate environment various methods are used.
through innovative means. Instead of
reprocessing waste textiles into fibers, Crocheting
these wastes are selected, assembled and
This involve interlacing loops of yarn, which
arranged into artistic objects or pieces using
are formed on a crochet hook, together in a
traditional methods or techniques. This
study investigates this practical experiences line. The processes is different from knitting
of using innovative creative methods of in that knitting has several active loops at
translating cut off wastes from tailor’s shops one time, on the knitting needle waiting to
into artistic and household items through interlock with another loop, while crocheting
studio explorations and experimentations. never has more than one active loop on the
The exploration and experimentation was needle.
achieved using textile technique of braiding
/ knotting, weaving, patchwork and Patchwork
crocheting or a combination of two or more This technique involves sewing together
of the techniques. These techniques were small pieces of cloth in different designs,
employed in making textile waste an colours, or textures into one whole. This
essential sustainable products. The method was used mainly in the production
following basic working methods and of household items.

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move in response to air currents (Encarta,

2009). Mobile executed using the tactile
Tools and Materials for the study effects of textile is also referred to as textile
A number of tools and materials are needed mobile which most often are sculptural
for effective execution of this study. The textiles. Wall hanging is a drapery or
following are essential tapestry hung against the wall for
decoration.
a) Fabrics- For this study, scraps and cut-
offs from tailoring shops makes up this Result and Discussions
item. This will be cut and joined The experimentation and exploration into
together to form stripes for braiding. textile waste using creative innovative
b) Sewing Machine for joining the scraps method resulted in many different artistic
together in long continuous chain. pieces as well as circular home items that
can be sustained to make a respectable
c) Sewing thread – for holding the braids
living. The artistic works are mostly
together to form shape.
decorative, laden with meanings while the
d) Jude bag – This will be used for household items are made with utmost
backing after stitching the work consideration to comfort and usage. Artistic
together. Results from Textile waste are in form of
e) Needles and thread - Used to pass tapestry, mobiles, wall hanging and textile
yarn through the braids. sculpture. Household items are in form of
f) Scissors – For trimming off excess yarn foot mat/local rug, floor mat, table mat,
and fabric and also for cutting scraps table cover, and more.
for joining. Some of the art pieces derived from textile
g) Adhesives – This will be used to hold waste include A Cry for Help (plate 9)
down the materials before stitching with (2006) which was created with yarn waste.
needle and thread. The concept of this piece of work was
h) Dyes and dyeing accessories – This derived from the head of a kola nut
may come handy if there is need to add “isinwaoji” and the concentric circle
personal touch. “okirikiri” which are so important in Igbo
i) Acrylic yarn – handy for pile effects belief system. The Marquette is a metal
construction of “okaraisinwaoji” (half of kola
Basic Working Method was used for artistic nut head) and “okirikiri” (circle) covered with
productions which are seen in form of textile a network of weaves. The Marquette was
sculpture, tapestry, mobiles, wall hanging constructed in a way to face every angle in
and more. Textile sculpture is a technique a complete three dimensional form. The
of producing textile art in three dimensions piece is highly symbolic which borders on
which was described by Barbara Kasten in global issues where hunger and starvation,
Waller 1977 in Udeani (2009) as a marriage natural deserter, economic and financial
of fiber and dimensionality. This technique meltdown, war and peace deliberation is the
is also referred to as the merging of other of the day. Generally, it is obvious that
voluminous forms of sculpture and tactile every part of the globe has one ill or the
effects of textiles (Wallar in Udeani, 2009). other and needs a special attention in its
Tapestry is a fabric consisting of a warp own way. In the mixed of social vices,
upon which colored threads are woven by insecurity and terrorism, Internal
hand to produce a design, often pictorial, displacement of citizen are inevitable and
used for wall hangings, furniture coverings, we are all beckoned to response to this call.
etc. Mobile is a hanging sculpture or in Udeani, (2014), plates 1 and 4 were
decoration whose parts are balanced to explored and extensively discussed.“Where
you Stop I Stop” (plate 2) (2002) is a relief

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 Textile waste recycling: An innovative Creativity for Entrepreneurial Sustainability in Nigeria

soft sculpture executed with cut offs of Textile waste recycling is an ongoing
plain, batik fabrics with jute material and project which is taking place all over the
cotton cords. This piece has to do with our world to reduce the constant use of landfill
self -actualization of our goals in life. How and channel the waste into usefulness
far do we push or encourage ourselves to through reduce, reuse and recycle.
make real our dreams? This piece tells us Channelling textile waste to as many but
that life is a continuous series of not limited to the products mentioned in this
endlessness just like elastic spring which paper will greatly contribute to this global
tensile strength is its breaking point. The project. Textile waste recycling encourages
interwoven nature of life and the transition of used or discarded textiles into
interdependence of every soul or everything circular economy which is news presently in
that exist is depicted in “Hang on, on me” every parts of the world. Engaging in textile
(plate 5) (2002). A mixed media work recycling and any other recycling means
consisting of jute fabric, pieces of cotton walking towards control of global warming
and silver cords, pine cone, acrylic yarns, which is a treat to our present world.
beads, copper wire and pigments. “The new Chemically recycling textile waste means
birth” is all about the cyclic nature of life, creation of another waste as more
death and reincarnation. Philosophically, chemicals are still involved. Therefore
one can say, “what goes around, comes channelling the waste to the
around”. It was achieved using braiding and aforementioned and more may present at
weaving techniques. “Unidentified knots” least a terminal relief.
(plate 6) (2002) stresses the fact that man
is only but a face lift being as the thoughts Textile recycling is a sustainable
of every man is but his own secret open to entrepreneurial activity if well harnessed will
him alone and to whom he wishes to reveal create jobs for many unrestful youths
himself to. Other works are “Trinity” and especially those that are unemployed. The
wall hanging created using crocheting and Internally Displaced People (IDP)
knotting techniques respectively. Both are recovering from the trauma of terrorist
decorative textiles. actions and other interested members of
the society may find textile recycling as an
The household items of plates 10a and b escape route to creativity as it open up a
(patch work cushion), 11a and b (braided new expressive medium as well as an outlet
foot mat), 12“mixed feelings” (tapestry), 13a for self- expression. Engaging in recycling
and b (center table mat), and 14 (flower especially of textiles will relieve our land
vase) are works produced from cut and sew from being more polluted.
fabric waste. Plate 10 is a mixture of locally
made Fulani fabric and industrially made
fabric while the tapestry (plate 12) (2011) is
a conglomeration of various Ankara fabrics
and dyed jute material used in patch work
formation to give the piece great
enhancement. Patch work and braiding is
the major technique used in the execution
of the household products. The products
are not limited to these or those suggested
by Gwary and Zuwahu (2009) but
encompasses a host of many ideas that a
designer or artist can create.
Conclusion and Recommendation

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Plate 3: The New Birth (Mixed Media)

A. Art Piece from Cut-and-sew
Fabric Waste

Plate 1: Authority Symbol (Relief Applique)

Plate 4: Royalty (Mixed Media)

B. Art pieces From Textile Yarn

Waste

Plate 2: Where You Stop I Stop

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Plate 5: Hang On, On Me (Braiding)

Plate 8: Wall hanging (Knotting)

Plate 6: Unidentified Knot (Weaving, from
Yarn waste)

Plate 9: A Cry for Help

(Textile Sculpture: a combination of knotting
and yarn networking)
Plate 7: Trinity (Crocheting)

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A. Household Items from Cut and

Sew Fabric Waste

Plate 12: Mixed Feelings (Tapestry)

Plate 10a: Patch Work Cushion Cover

Plate 10b: Detail of Plate 10 a

Plate 13a: Centre Table Mat

Plate 11a: Braided Foot Mat (Student’s

work) Plate 13b: Detail of plate 13a

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Gwari,W.B and Zuwahu, A.A (2009).

Recycling Waste- Clothes as a Means
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