PERFORM ENGINE BLOCK INSPECTIONS & DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR WORK SHEET #2

NAME: ___________________________________________________________________DATE:________________________
SUBJECT:___________________________________________________________ENGINE MAKE/MODEL_________________

TIMING CHAIN AND CAMSHAFT

1. Disassemble the parts in the numerical order as shown
in the figure

2. Remove and keep the valve lifters in order

3. Remove timing chain and sprocket together

4. Pull out the camshaft using care NOT to damage the

camshaft bearings/bushings

VALVE LIFTER INSPECTION

5. Inspect valve lifters and bores for any damage.
Result: _________________________________________________________
6. Measure oil clearance. See figure.

Oil Clerance Limit: ___________________________________

Recommendation: ___________________________________________________

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Valve Bore Diameter
Valve Lifter Diameter
Oil clearance
Result

CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
7. Measure the journal runout as shown in the figure.
Circle runout limit : 0.03 mm (0.0012”)
JOURNAL # 1 2 3 4 5
RUNOUT
RESULT

8. Measure cam lobe height as shown in the figure

1
 CAMLOBE # 1 2 3 4

INTAKE
EXHAUST
RESULT

Intake lobe height limit: 36.17 mm Exhaust lobe height limit: 36.07 mm

9. Measure journal oil clearance as shown in the figure

Oil Clearance Limit: 0.1 mm
1 2 3 4 5
Bearing
Diameter
Journal
Diameter
Oil
Clearance
RESULT

CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON ASSEMBLY INSPECTION

1. Remove the oil pan and gasket, oil strainer and oil pump from engine block.
2. Remove front and rear engine covers and all parts attached to the block.
3. Measure connecting rod thrust/side clearance and record. See diagram
#1 Conrod___________ #2 Conrod_______#3 Conrod______#4 Conrod______
Side/ Thrust Clearance Limit: 0.35 mm
4. Compare your measurements to specifications. Did the measured conrod
clearance within the maximum limit? ________If not what is your
recommendations_______________________________________________
5. Remove piston and connecting rod.
 Note the top of piston for a notch, arrow or marked
“front”. Piston must be installed in proper direction to
prevent damaged with valve operation..See diagram on
the left.
 Check that the connecting rod and cap are numbered
for cylinder location and which side of cylinder block
the number faces. Proper cap and conrod must be
installed together. See diagram on the
right.
 Mark conrod and cap if necessary. Pistons must be installed in their original
locations
 Once each piston is out of the block, put each rod cap back on the
corresponding connecting
rod. Do not remove the connecting rod bearing shells yet.

6. Wash and clean all pistons.Scrape away all traces of carbon from the
top of the piston
7. Remove piston rings from the piston one at a time using old feeler blades to
assist removal of the piston rings. See illustration below

8. Remove the carbon from the ring

grooves in the piston, using an old
ring.
9. Carefully inspect each piston for
cracks around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the ring lands.
10. Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust faces of the skirt, holes in
the piston crown, and burned areas at the edge of the crown.
 If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from overheating and/or abnormal combustion, which
caused excessively high operating temperatures. The cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly.
 A hole in the piston crown is an indication that abnormal combustion (preignition) was occurring.
 Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown are usually evidence of spark knock (detonation).
 If any of the above problems exist, the causes must be corrected, or the damage will occur again. The causes may include
intake air leaks, incorrect fuel/air mixture, or incorrect ignition timing.
2
 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of small pits, indicates that coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber and/or the
crankcase.
 the cause must be corrected or the problem may persist in the rebuilt engine.

11. Keep the piston assembly in correct order.

12. Measure the ring side clearances and record. See illustration.

PISTON #1 PISTON #2 PISTON #3 PISTON #4

COMP. RING #1

COMP. RING #2

Compression ring #1 side clearance: 0.03 - 0.07 mm (0.0012” - 0.0028”)

Compression ring #2 side clearance: 0.02 - 0.06 mm (0.0008” - 0.0024”)
13. Compare your measurements to the specifications.
14. Are the measured ring side clearances within the maximum limit? _________.
15. If the measured ring side clearances exceeds the specified limit, What should be done? _______________
_________________________________________________________________________________________
16. Measure piston diameter at a 90 angle to the piston pin and as the same height as the
pin and record. See illustration.
Piston #1 Piston #2 Piston #3 Piston #4
Diameter

17. Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder walls by
pushing it in with the top of the piston (see illustration). The ring should be near the
bottom of the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.

18. To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges between the ends of the ring until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found (see illustration). The feeler gauge should slide between
the ring ends with a slight amount of drag.

PISTON #1 PISTON #2 PISTON #3 PISTON #4

#1 Comp. Ring End Gap
#2 Comp. Ring End Gap
19. Compare your measurements to the specifications.
Specifications: No. 1 ring: 0.10mm - 0.28mm (0.0039” - 0.011”)
No 2 ring: 0.15mm - 0.30mm (0.008”- 0.035”)
20. Did all your measured ring end gaps within the specifications?________.
21. If end gap is not within the specifications, what is the remedy_____________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
22. Check the piston to bore clearance:
A. Measure bore diameter of each cylinder at a point between TDC and BDC and record.
B. Subtract the measured diameter of the piston from the measured bore diameter.
C. The difference is the amount of piston clearance.
Piston to Bore clearance: 0.03mm - 0.05mm
Cylinder Bore # Measured Bore Diameter Piston Diameter Piston-Bore Clearance Results ( pass or fail)
1
2
3
4

23. Install all piston rings into the piston ring grooves and place them in a safe place to avoid being damaged

3
CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
24. Measure crankshaft endplay using dial gauge
indicator or feeler gauge and record.
_____________See diagrams on the right.
Specified crankshaft endplay limit: 0.3mm
25. Compare measured endplay to specifications. Is
the measured endplay within the specified
limit?________. If not what is your
recommendations? __________________________________________________________________________
26. Check the main bearing caps to see if they’re marked to indicate their locations.
27. They should be numbered consecutively from the front of the engine to the rear. If they aren’t, mark them with
number-stamping dies or a centre-punch (see
illustration). Main bearing caps generally have a cast-in
arrow, which points to the front of the engine.

28. Loosen the main bearing cap bolts a quarter turn at a

time each, working from the outer ends towards the
centre, until they can be removed by hand.
29. Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced hammer, then
separate them from the engine block. If necessary, use
the bolts as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop the bearing shells if they
come out with the caps.
30. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. It may be a good idea to have an
assistant available, since the crankshaft is quite heavy (see illustration). With the
bearing shells in place in the engine block and main bearing caps, return the caps to
their respective locations on the engine block, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
31. Clean the crankshaft with solvent, and dry it with compressed air (if available). Be sure to clean the oil holes with a stiff
brush (see illustration), and flush them with solvent.
32. Check the main and connecting big-end bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pits
and cracks.
33. Using a micrometer or vernier caliper, measure the diameter of the main and
connecting rod journals for taper and out-of-roundness and record below. See
illustration

Measured Measured Difference Results

diameter diameter at (Amount of Pass/fail
at A B taper)
Conrod journal # 1
Conrod journal # 2
Conrod journal # 3
Conrod journal # 4

Measured Measured Diffrence Results

diameter at diameter at (Amount of Pass/Fail A B A
A B taper)
Main journal # 1
Main journal # 2
Main journal # 3 B
Main journal # 4
Main journal # 5

Measured Measured Difference Results

diameter at A diameter at B (Amount of out-of-round) Pass/fail
Conrod journal # 1
Conrod journal # 2
Conrod journal # 3
Conrod journal # 4
Measured Measured Diffrence Results
diameter at A diameter at B (Amount of out-of-round) Pass/Fail
Main journal # 1
Main journal # 2
Main journal # 3
Main journal # 4
Main journal # 5
4
 Taper and out-of round limit: 0.01mm

MAIN BEARING AND CONNECTING ROD BEARING INSPECTION

34. Even though the main and connecting bigend bearings should be renewed
during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close
examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of
the engine (see illustration). Check the main and connecting rod bearings and
record findings.
Conrod Bearings #1 #2 #3 #4
Results/Findings

Main Bearings #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
Results/Findings

CYLINDER BORE INSPECTION

35. Clean and dry engine block. Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from the engine block. Be very
careful not to nick or gouge the gasket sealing surfaces. If you have access to compressed air, use it to speed the
drying process and to blow out all the oil holes and galleries.
36. The threaded holes in the block must be clean to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly.
37. Wipe all machined surfaces with a light, rust preventive oil.
38. Now is a good time to clean the threads on all bolts.
39. Check and measure cylinder block deck surface for warpage and record. See illustration.
1. _______________ 2. _________________ 3.______________

4. _______________ 5 ________________ 6. ______________

Maximum allowable warpage: 0.05mm (0.002”)
40. What is the maximum warpage that you measured? ___________________________
41. Did the engine block warpage within the maximum allowable limit? _________
42. IF the measured warpage is more than the allowable limit, What should you
recommend __________________________________________________________
43. Measure the diameter of each cylinder at the top (just under the wear ridge area),
centre and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis (see
illustrations).

Cyl #1 Cyl #2 Cyl #3 Cyl #4

A
B
C
44. Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter at the same three locations across the crankshaft axis.
Cyl #1 Cyl #2 Cyl #3 Cyl #4
A
B
C

45. Compare the results to the Specifications. Wear limt: 0.2mm

46. If the measured cylinder bore diameter is more than the specified limit and indicates a taper or out-of-roundness that
exceeds the specified limit, What would be your recommendations?
__________________________________________________________________________________________________

MAIN BEARING AND CONNECTING ROD BEARING OIL CLEARANCE CHECK

47. Clean the surfaces of the connecting rod journals. Remove any traces of oil on the
journals
48. Starting with #1 connecting rod and piston assembly, remove the bearing shells from
the conrod and the conrod cap.
49. Wipe the bearing back sides and surfaces of the conrod and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean.
50. Reinstall bearings to the conrod and cap.
51. Install the connecting rod and piston assembly to the appropriate connecting rod journal in the crankshaft. Note the
correct position of the piston and the mark should be facing the front of the
crankshaft.
52. Cut the plastigage to the same length as the connecting rod journal and place it on top
of the journal.
53. Install the connecting rod cap and bolts/nuts and tighten them to specified torque in
two passes or stages. NOTE. Hold the crankshaft and connecting rod assembly as you
5
 tighten the bolts/nuts.DO NOT let them turn. If they do turn, replace the plastigage and repeat the procedure.
54. Loosen and remove the connecting rod cap.
55. Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on the journal to the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope to obtain
the conrod bearing oil clearance (see illustration). Check the Specifications to make sure it’s correct. Maximum limit:
0.10mm (0.0039”)
56. If the clearance is not as specified, the bearing shells may be the wrong size (which means different ones will be
required). Before deciding that different shells are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil was between the bearing
shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured.
57. If the Plastigage was wider at one end than the other, the journal may be tapered.
58. Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the conrod journals and/or the bearing faces. Use your
fingernail or the edge of a plastic scraper - don’t nick or scratch the bearing surfaces.
59. Do step 48 - 58 for the remaining 3 connecting rod and piston assembly and record your results.
#1 #2 #3 #4
Measured Conrod oil
clearance
60. Position the block upside-down.
61. Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift out the caps. Lay them out in the proper order to ensure correct refitting.
62. If they’re still in place, remove the original bearing shells from the block and the main bearing caps. Wipe the bearing
surfaces of the block and caps with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean.
63. Clean the back sides of the new main bearing shells, and lay one in each main bearing saddle in the block. If one of the
bearing shells from each set has a large groove in it, make sure the grooved shell is
fitted in the block.
64. Lay the other bearing from each set in the corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure
the tab on the bearing shell fits into the recess in the block or cap.
Caution: The oil holes in the block must line up with the oil holes in the bearing shell. Do
not hammer the bearing into place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing faces. No
lubrication should be used at this time.
65. The thrust bearing must be fitted in the No 3 bearing cap and engine block saddle
66. Clean the faces of the bearings in the block and the crankshaft main bearing journals with a clean, lint-free cloth.
67. Check or clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one way - straight through the new bearings.
68. Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean, carefully lay it in position in the main bearings.
69. Cut several pieces of the appropriate-size Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter than
the width of the main bearings), and place one piece on each crankshaft main bearing
journal, parallel with the crankshaft centerline (see illustration).
70. Clean the faces of the bearings in the caps, and refit the caps in their respective
positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows pointing towards the front of the engine.
Don’t disturb the Plastigage.
71. Starting with the centre main bearing and working out toward the ends, progressively
tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque. Tighten the bolts in three
stages.
CAUTION: Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during the tightening operation.
72. Remove the bolts and carefully lift off the main bearing caps. Keep them in order.
Don’t disturb the Plastigage or rotate the crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps
are difficult to remove, tap them gently from sideto-side with a soft-face hammer to
loosen them.
73. Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each journal to the scale printed on
the Plastigage envelope to obtain the main bearing oil clearance (see illustration).
Check the Specifications to make sure it’s correct. Record your measured results.
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5
Main Bearing oil
clearance
74. If the clearance is not as specified, the bearing shells may be the wrong size (which means different ones will be
required). Before deciding that different shells are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil was between the bearing
shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigage was wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered.
75. Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the main bearing journals and/or the bearing surfaces.
76. Remove crankshaft and upper and lower thrust washers/bearings.
77. Measure thrust bearings/thrust washer thickness and record.
Washer/bearing thickness Upper thrust bearing/washer Lower thrust bearing/washer
Measured thickness
78. Compare your measurements to the specifications. Specifications: 2.43 - 2.48 mm
79. Do the measured thickness within the specified limit? ______________
80. If NOT within the specified limit, what will be the recommendation._________________________________________

6
FINAL CRANKSHAFT REFITTING AND INSTALLATION
1. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine.
2. Clean the bearing faces in the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of engine oil to each of
the bearing surfaces. Be sure to coat the thrust faces as well as the journal face of the thrust
bearing.
3. Make sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in the block.
4 Clean the faces of the bearings in the caps, then apply engine oil to them.
5 Refit the caps in their respective positions, with the arrows pointing towards the front of the
engine.
6 Refit the bolts finger-tight.
7 Lightly tap the ends of the crankshaft forward and backward with a lead or brass hammer, to
line up the main bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces.
8 Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque, working from the center outwards,
tighten the bolts in three stages to the final torque. Specification: 5.4-6.6 kg-m(40-47 ft-lb)
9 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand to check for any obvious binding

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

10. Position the piston ring gaps so they’re staggered 120° from each other.
11. Where applicable, slip a section of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap
bolt.
12. Lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring compressor
to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about 6 or 7 mm to guide the piston into the cylinder. The rings must be
compressed until they’re flush with the piston.
13. Rotate the crankshaft until the No 1 connecting rod journal is at BDC (bottom dead centre). Apply a coat of engine oil
to the cylinder walls.
14. With the mark or notch on top of the piston facing the front of the engine, gently insert the piston/connecting rod
assembly into the No 1 cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge of the ring compressor on the engine block.
15. Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to make sure it’s contacting the block around its
entire circumference.
16. Gently tap on the top of the piston with the end of a wooden hammer handle (see illustration)
while guiding the end of the connecting rod into place on the crankshaft journal. Work slowly,
and if any resistance is felt as the piston enters the cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s
catching, and fix it before proceeding. Do not, for any reason,force the piston into the cylinder -
you might break a ring and/or the piston.
17. Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of engine assembly oil to both of them.
You’ll have to push the piston into the cylinder to expose the face of the bearing shell in the connecting rod - be sure to slip
the protective hoses over the rod bolts first, where applicable.
19. Slide the connecting rod back into place on the journal, and remove the protective hoses
from the rod cap bolts. Refit the rod cap, and tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque.
Torque Specification: 4.0-5.2 kg-m(29-37 ft-lb)
20. Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining pistons/connecting rods.
21 The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the back sides of the bearing shells and the insides of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when
assembling them.
b) Make sure you have the correct piston/rod assembly for each cylinder.
c) The notch or mark on the piston must face the front of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder walls with clean oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing faces when refitting the rod caps after the oil clearance has been checked.
22. After all the piston/connecting rod assemblies have been properly fitted, rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand to check for any obvious binding.
23. Replace front and rear oil seal
24. Install oil pump, oil strainer, oil pan, and rear cover
25. Set piston #1 to TDC
26. Install cylinder head and bolts and tighten to specified torque following the
specified sequence in three stages.

Tightening torque: 5.5 - 6.6 kg-m (40-47 ft-lb)

7
27. Instal rear cover and flywheel
28. Install pushrod, rocker arm assembly and tighten bolts

SETTING VALVE TIMING

29. With #1 piston at TDC, Check and align camshaft timing marks to the crankshaft gear timing mark.
30. Check that both intake and exhaust valves of No.! cylinder are closed, then install timing chain and tensioner
31. Recheck timing marks and Install front cover.
32. Install all parts remove during dis-assembly.