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14
Our Apparel
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
After completing this chapter the learner is able to —
• discuss the clothing functions and the factors influencing
selection of clothes.
• identify general clothing needs of the children.
288
• recognise the characteristic features and clothing
requirements of children from different age groups.
• discuss the clothing needs of children with special needs.

When you meet people for the first time what impacts you the most? Their clothing,
or face or their personality or all of these? Our posture, walk, smile or frown and
other forms of body language contribute to the impression we create. Actually of
all these aspects clothing creates the first impression. We recognise that good
appearance is important. In order to appreciate the true importance of dress or
clothing we need to discover how we feel about the clothes we wear.

14.1 Clothing Functions and the

Selection of Clothes
Look at the clothes you are wearing today and think about why you are
wearing them. May be it was the weather that determined what you chose
or the kind of activity in the school that you were to perform or may be the
function you were to attend with your family or friends, or for no particular
reason.
We all wear clothing and we wear different types of clothing. Let us
begin to understand why we select the clothing we wear. At the same

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time let us gain some insight into other people’s reasons for their clothing
choices.

Modesty
Probably the most obvious reason for wearing clothes is simply that in
our society, people do not go around without them; we wear clothing for
modesty. You probably know that young children do not feel embarrassed
going about without any clothing. The need to have their bodies covered is
something that they are taught.
Ideas about modesty are shaped by the society in which we live. What
is considered modest in one society might not be considered as modest
in another. For example in some communities women not covering heads
may be considered as a sign of immodesty, whereas, in other communities
women not covering their legs is thought to be immodest.

Protection
We wear clothing to protect ourselves from the environment – from harsh
weather conditions, dirt and pollution. We change our clothing according
to the different seasons. In hot summer months we wear light weight 289
cotton clothes and may even cover our heads to protect ourselves from the
scorching sun, whereas in winter months we cover ourselves in layers of
woollen clothing for protection.
Clothing can also protect us from physical harm. Fire fighters wear
special clothing for protection from fire, smoke and water. Many sports
activities such as football, hockey and cricket require clothing that is
specially designed to protect the players from injury. You must have
noticed the arm guards, leg guards, wrist bands that these players wear
along with their normal dress for special protection.

ACTIVITY 1
Can you identify the clothing that is needed in the rainy season? What type of fabrics,
garments and accessories are needed in that weather? Make a list and discuss with
your friends.

Status and prestige

Clothes can also be a sign of status. It used to be true that you could
identify people’s social and economic status by their clothing. You may
have seen in certain historical films that the king’s and courtesan’s clothing
are quite different from the common people’s clothing. Everybody’s sense

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of identity includes a feeling of social status or prestige, and the manner of

dress is one way by which this can be accomplished. In India on festivals
and important family events people wear clothes that may reflect their
social status.
However, as more and more stylish clothing become available at
reasonable prices, today many more young people can afford to buy them.
Thus, as similar kinds of clothing (T-shirt, jeans, salwar-kurta) become
available for all ages and economic levels, these also serve as social class
levellers, a step towards social equity in a democratic society.

Adornment
What about wearing clothes just because you want to look attractive? Yes,
we wear good clothes to enhance our appearance. The need to decorate
and adorn the body seems to be one of the more universal drives of
men and women and can be found to some degree in all societies. Ear
piercing, nail polishing, tattooing, hair braiding and knotting are forms of
body decoration still used. The desirability of each type of adornment is
determined by the society.
There is a vast range of fabrics available in the market, a large
290 number of which are used for clothing and apparel. In an earlier chapter
(Chapter 7) you learnt about these fabrics in terms of their fibre content,
yarn and fabric types and the finishes applied during production. Thus,
you can relate the fabric characteristics with their suitability for diverse
usages and care requirements. Selection of the type of clothing and apparel
not only takes into consideration the fabric characteristics but also the
right style of garment and its accessory details. Having earlier discussed
the reasons for wearing clothes, let us look at the clothing needs and
selection of clothing for different age groups.

14.2 Factors Affecting Selection of

Clothing in India
Assessment of clothing needs and the final decision in the selection is
dependent on the geographical features, climate and seasonal features of
the area where they have to be used. It is also affected by easy availability,
cultural influences and even more strongly the family traditions. In general,
the factors that affect selection of clothing can be summarised as follows–

Age
Age is an important factor to be considered at all stages of life. It becomes
more important while selecting clothes and apparel for children, since it is

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parents or elders of the family who are taking the decision regarding their
clothes. It is important to remember that children, specially infants and
toddlers, are not dolls to be dressed up and decorated for the satisfaction of
adults. Their physical growth, motor development, association with people
and things around them and activities they indulge in, all have to be taken
into consideration from the point of view of comfort and safety.
As children grow, their association and interaction with people outside
their immediate family increases. They become aware of clothes that other
people wear and how others view their clothes. Conformity to peers begins
to become important in middle childhood and increases in importance with
age. Clothes and apparel play an important role in helping the growing child
feel a sense of belonging and acceptance. As children grow, their clothing
changes and clothing for girls and boys becomes different. Approaching
adolescence, the rapid physical growth brings about even further gender
differentiation in clothing. The adolescents also start recognising cultural
and societal norms as well as contemporary trends which influence their
selection of clothes. They are often convinced that their popularity and
relationships in a group are dependent on appearance, which in turn is
due to the “right clothes.”

Climate and season 291

In the previous section you read that protection from environment

and weather is one of the main reasons for wearing clothes. Hence the
selection of clothing for children has to be suited to the climate. Clothing
requirements for cold climate or season would be very different from warm
or temperate climate and even for areas with heavy rains or high humidity.
When some types of clothes and fabrics are suitable only for 3–4 months in
a year, their cost and quantity has to be considered carefully. This is more
important for growing children because they would have outgrown them
by the next season.

Occasion
Selection of clothes also depends a lot on the occasion and time of the
day. There are also unwritten rules and traditions for clothing for each
occasion. Most schools have dress uniforms and rules regarding not
wearing accessories and ornaments. In schools, where it is not compulsory
to wear a uniform, very formal, very dressy or very sporty clothes can
cause disciplinary problems for children. They may become objects of
ridicule by their peers or may be deterred from joining group activities
whole heartedly.
Social get-togethers and parties are the occasions when children like
to use ‘nice’ apparel to highlight their individuality. At family functions

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such as a wedding even children may have to follow the traditional norms
and wear something suitable. In most communities, rites and ceremonies
associated with the passage of life continue to follow traditional, some
time modified, norms. The clothing selection is reflected not only in the
style of dress, but also in the choice of fabric type and texture, colour and
accessories. Concepts of clothing in terms of modesty and protection vary
with occasion, activity and time of the day. Wearing the right thing at the
right time is most important.

Fashion
The term ‘fashion’ is identified with a style which has contemporary
appeal for the masses. With children’s constant exposure to TV, even they
become quite fashion conscious. Fashion may be inspired by important
personalities, social or political leaders, film stars or even important
national events. These can be reflected in apparel in terms of fabric types,
colour and design of the material, shape or cut of the garment or simply
the accessories (like scarves, bags, badges, belts, etc.) that go with it.
Certain fashions that highly exaggerate some features of dress or may
affect only part of the society, or a specific area are very short lived. These
292 are known as ‘fads’. Children and adolescents are quite likely to be taken
up by fads.

Income
The amount of money available also affects the selection of clothing. This is
reflected not only in the initial cost while purchasing it, but also in its use
for varied purposes, durability, and care and maintenance requirements.
The number of children in a family, their age gaps and gender may also
affect the final choice. Families of high-income group often have greater
variety in clothing, specially with reference to special occasions. In families
with modest or low income, the clothes of older siblings are recycled and
worn by younger ones to economise on the expenditure on clothes.
One reason why schools prescribe a uniform dress for children is to de-
emphasise the socio-economic differences among students.

14.3 Understanding Children’s basic

Clothing Needs
As children grow, they like to identify with their peers and or adults
whom they admire. One way of doing that is to dress like them. This is an
emotional experience for them. Children’s clothes must be suitable for
their different activities, and must give them freedom to play, something

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that is so essential for their physical growth. The clothing needs of children,
from infancy to adolescence, are discussed below in detail.

Comfort
The most important requirement for children is comfort. They need to roll,
crawl, squat, climb, run and jump without being hindered by clothes. They
need to play without fear of getting their clothes dirty. Tight clothes are avoided
as they restrict activity and even interfere with natural blood circulation.
Similarly elastic bindings should not be so tight as to cause pain.
Heavy and bulky clothes are difficult to handle and tiring for children.
Select lightweight clothes that are made of acrylic and nylon fibres,
especially for winter apparel, to keep warm. Children need to bend
and stoop often, so sufficient ease is essential in the crotch to allow for
comfortable movement. Clothes that hang from shoulders are generally
more comfortable than those hanging from waistline. Necklines have to be
wide enough so that there is no strain across the throat. Similarly sleeves
with bands at the end are irritable as it restricts free movement.
Essentially, be sure that fabrics are soft and absorbent, suitable for the
child’s sensitive skin. Organdy collars for girls’ frocks and heavily starched
shirts for little boys are uncomfortable to wear. Clothes that are too large 293
can be as uncomfortable as those that are too small. To avoid this, select
garments that fit but have enough allowance for child’s growth. Regarding
sleeves, raglan sleeves provide for more freedom as well as growth than
set-in fitted sleeves.

Safety
Comfort and safety go hand-in-hand for children’s clothing. Clothes
which are too large may be uncomfortable and may also be unsafe. Loose
garments can catch on fire more easily (than fitting clothes) around the
cooking area. Hanging sashes and trims can get caught in the moving
parts of the tricycle or objects. As bright colours can be more easily seen
by motorists than dark and gray colours, it is advisable to use such colours
for children’s clothing. Loose buttons and trims are unsafe for infants and
toddlers who put every thing into their mouth.

Self-help
Dressing and undressing themselves give children a feeling of confidence
and self-reliance. Many of children’s clothes are too difficult to put on or
take off by the children themselves. Remember, it becomes frustrating for
a child who wants to dress on her/his own.

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The most essential self-help feature is the opening in a dress. This must
be large enough so that the child can get in and out of the garment easily.
Front openings are easier to handle. Buttons should be large enough to
be grasped by a child’s hand. Front and back side of the dress should
look different so that the child can learn to identify it easily. Small snaps,
hooks and eyes, and bows tied at the waist or the neck and small buttons
with thread loops retard the self-help features in a dress.

Appearance
Children have their own ideas about their clothing and they should be
allowed to express their preferences. Exercising some choice at the younger
ages will help them develop their ability to select appropriate clothes. Bright
colours for outer wear make it easier to spot a child on the play ground or
street. Lines should highlight desirable features and camouflage undesirable
ones. Fabric designs should be in scale with smaller figures. Usually small
checks, strips, plaids and dainty prints are best. Although large designs
may be interesting, often they overpower the small child wearing it.

Allowance for growth

294
Children’s clothing should have allowance for growth, especially in length.
It is not advisable to buy a much larger size as they are neither comfortable
nor safe. It is better to choose clothes to fit with the provision to increase
length. Select fabrics which do not shrink. Trousers can have cuffs at the
hemline which can be later let down to increase the leg length. Adjustable
straps on skirts are a must. Raglan sleeves allow for growth better than set-
in sleeves. Tucks and pleats at the shoulder line can allow for increasing
width.

Easy care
Children are happier if they do not have to be worried about getting their
clothes dirty. Even mothers appreciate easy care clothes, ones which can
be easily washed and need little or no ironing. Flat seams are essential
as they wear longer than plain seams. Areas of strains as knees, pocket
corners and elbows can be reinforced.

Fabrics
Soft, firmly woven or knitted fabrics that are easy to care for, comfortable
to skin, that do not wrinkle or soil readily, are the desirable fabrics for
children’s clothing. Avoid clothing which must be drycleaned. Printed

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fabrics, corduroy and textured fabrics show less wrinkles and soil. Cotton
is the most widely used fabric as it is easily washable and comfortable to
wear. Wool is warm but requires special care; it may irritate children’s
delicate skin, and hence must not be worn next to skin. Polyester, nylon
and acrylic clothes wear well and are cared for easily. A blend of cotton
and polyester is often more comfortable for a child than pure polyester, as
it is more absorbent.

ACTIVITY 2
Observe children of various age groups and note what clothing they wear at ages 2
years, 5 years, 8 years, 11 years and 16 years.

14.4 Clothing requirements at different

childhood stages
We have seen the general clothing needs of the children in the last section.
Each stage of childhood has specific characteristics that need to be kept
in mind while selecting their clothes.
295
Infancy (birth to six months)
During the early months the most important factors are warmth, comfort
and hygiene. At this age, infants are basically feeling, sleeping and
eliminating. Hence the clothes must be comfortable. One can stitch or
select clothes which open down the front or have large openings to avoid
slipping the dress over their heads. Also, draw strings, especially around
the neck, should be avoided as these can get entangled. The fasteners
used can be placed so that they can be reached easily and they can be of a
kind that will not injure the baby in any way. It is advisable to have plenty
of garments that need to be changed often like shirts and diapers.
Physically at this stage, the baby’s skin is very delicate and sensitive
and thus would demand very soft, light-in-weight and simple-to-put-on

FIGURE 1: CLOTHES FOR INFANTS

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and take-off clothes. The fabrics with sizing are not suitable for the babies
as it might scratch the skin. Even all wool flannel fabrics for winters would
be irritating to the skin, thus a baby flannel, a mix of wool and cotton or
silk is preferred. Infants grow very fast at this stage so it is advisable not
to buy too many clothes in smaller sizes.
Diapers are the first and most essential requirement for infants. These
have to be soft, absorbent, easily washed and quick drying. It is quite
common for families to make cotton diapers at home. If old cotton sheets
are used for the purpose, they need to be well sterilised and disinfected.
Many families have replaced home made diapers with ‘gauze’ and bird’s
eye diapers that are available in the market. Pre-shaped diapers are also
available but one should be certain about the fit for the baby.

296

FIGURE 2: PRE-SHAPED DIAPERS

Undershirts are worn in most climates; depending on the weather and

geographical location, the material for the undershirt should be selected
suitably. Cotton undershirt is suitable for warm climate and soft wool-
cotton blend shirts are suitable in cold climate. Usually, shirts and diapers
form the basic garments for the infant. Cotton shirts in various styles that
slip on easily are preferred.
In rural areas, it has been observed that infants wear clothes which are
simple and homemade from used materials.

Creeping age (6 months to one year)

This is the stage when the child begins to show signs of independence. It is
very interesting to see babies pull themselves up to the furniture to stand,
trying to reach out to objects, to sit or stand on their own. You will notice
that all these activities would need clothes for protection and comfort.

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Apparel for children in this age group has to be such that it

allows for free movement. Thus, the basic clothing needs are loose and

FIGURE 3: COMFORTABLE CLOTHES FOR CRAWLING AGE

non-interfering garments. For clothes to fit loosely, both knitted and bias
cut garments are most suited as they stretch allowing for some growth. As
this is the stage to develop good posture, care must be taken in selection
of right clothes. Too much bulk can hamper motor movement. Light weight
garments are preferred over tightly knitted or woven ones. These would
be easier during play and will also be comparatively warmer to enmesh
air, specially in winters. Do not make children wear too many clothes. The 297
clothes should be made of suitable fabric, i.e., one that is soft, smooth
and does not collect soil readily. They should be easy to care for, i.e.,
wash and iron. Some fabrics like knits and seersuckers (crimpled striped
material) are excellent as they do not require ironing. Some cottons and
rayons are wrinkle resistant as they are treated with special finishes.
As children spend most of their time playing, their clothes may require
frequent changes as these would get soiled. It is thus important to look
at the feature of convenient openings in the garment to slip off and put
on easily.
Most suitable garments for this age are rompers and sun-suits made
from knitted or woven material.

FIGURE 4: APPAREL DESIGNS SUITABLE FOR CRAWLING AGE

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While selecting these garments it is important to keep in mind the

features of size and looseness so that the garment does not come in the
way of the child’s movements. During the crawling stage, soft-soled shoes
may be worn if protection from the cold is needed. Training pants are often
worn when toilet training begins. These are made of fabrics that fit snuggly
at the hip.

Toddlerhood (1–2 years)

If you observe a few children in this age-group and you will notice that they
are very active. They need freedom to play indoors as well as outdoors. They
want to do most of the things themselves. Now as they start walking, they
want to reach out for anything they see. At this stage shoes or footwear
become a very essential part of the clothing. The correct fit in shoes and
socks for a small child is essential for foot comfort and health. The principle
clothing concern in the toddler age is the selection of shoes. When walking
1
begins, flexible soled shoes with rough soles of 8 inch thickness are worn.
These may be without heel or a slight heel, and should be full and puffy
in the toe area.
Shoes should be selected and fitted carefully because the soft bones of
298 a child’s foot may be injured by wrong fitting or badly shaped shoes. One
must be sure to consider the length, width, height of toe space and fit of
the heel.

FIGURE 5: CORRECT FIT OF SHOE

For correct fit, they should be fitted on the child. The shoes that fit
well help to build good body skills in balance, climbing and running. As
children outgrow their shoes quickly, shoes need replacement frequently
to avoid foot related health dangers.
For toddlers overalls are the most suitable dresses. These need to be
large at the crotch to allow for diapers. By the time children are 2 years old,
they want to dress on their own. Then it is important to select garments
with self-help features that have been listed earlier.

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ACTIVITY 3
Make a size chart of toddlers according to weight and height by measuring four children
in this age group, two girls and two boys.

Preschool age (2–6 years)

Like other age groups, health and comfort of preschoolers is an important
consideration in selection of their clothes. Clothes have to be selected
suitably for these children as they play a lot, and the garments should be
able to withstand the wear and tear that the average child will give them.
Clothes should be made from light weight materials that are pre-shrunk
and are easy to care. Cotton is the most suitable fabric for preschoolers.
It is hygienic, absorbent and easy to launder.
The design features on the ready-to-wear preschooler’s dress must
provide ease in care. Sometimes dresses have trimmings that make the
garment difficult to wash and iron. It should be such that it can withstand
many launderings and hard wear. Be sure that fasteners and trimmings
are securely attached, decorations are easy to iron, and seams are flat and
well finished. 299

FIGURE 6: APPAREL FOR PRESCHOOLERS

Children in this age grow rapidly so it is important to make or buy only

few garments that will serve for all occasions and purposes. While buying
expensive clothes, look for growth features as discussed in the previous
section. This will enable a garment to be worn over a longer period of
time.

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Preschoolers may have definite preference for colours and styles. They
start showing interest in their clothing. Personality plays an important role
in children’s choice of clothing. Some girls prefer feminine style and like
to wear frocks with frills. Preschool boys may not be as dress conscious
as girls, but they like to dress like other boys and be comfortable. It has
been observed that, at this stage, girls are permitted to wear pants/jeans/
shorts like boys, although the opposite is not true for boys.
Individuality of each child should be respected through clothes, even
if they are twins. Identical twins should not be dressed alike unless they
wish to. It is important that preschoolers be given a chance to express
their choice while making a purchase for their clothing.
Self-help features are important for both child and the mother. These
features help the child to become more independent and self-reliant. The
desirable features of preschoolers’ dresses are one piece garment with
front long openings that can be easily reached, large buttons, large and
comfortable necklines without collar and large armholes.
In brief, clothes for preschoolers should be comfortable to wear, easy
to maintain, durable to use that provide allowance for growing needs, look
attractive in design and colour, and encourage self-reliance.

300 Elementary School Years (5–11years)

As you read in the previous chapter this is the stage of middle childhood.
It is a period of heightened physical activity, and both boys and girls are
interested in sports. Clothing now plays an important role in their social
and emotional development.

FIGURE 7: SPORTY AND COMFORTABLE DRESSES FOR 5–8 YEARS

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They develop likes and dislikes for certain clothes to gain acceptance from
their peers, and parents need to understand this developmental change. A
sensitive child may experience humiliation and develop lack of confidence if
her/his clothes appear very different from those of her/his peers.
Comfortable clothing is essential at this age too. Boys now are very
active and prefer wearing rugged clothes that can withstand their rough-
and-tumble play. Girls may prefer ‘boyish’ clothes or may opt for feminine
dresses.

301

FIGURE 8: COMFORTABLE CLOTHING FOR ELEMENTARY SCHOOL AGE GROUP

Most children can select what they want to wear, and resent suggestions
from parents.
Fitting is an important aspect to be considered while selecting clothing
for school children. A poor fit dress is often discarded by the children.
However, some children may select a dress on the basis of style even if it
is not comfortable.
To cater to their physical needs the children would require absorbent
fabrics so as to absorb perspiration. Most suitable fabrics are cotton, voile,
etc. Factors like safety, easy care, growth allowance and suitability to their
physique are also important for school going children, just like younger
children as has been discussed in the previous sections.

Adolescents (11–19 years)

During adolescent years, growth is very rapid and different parts of the
body grow at different rates. In early adolescence, a minimal wardrobe is

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advisable at any one time, since the child is going to outgrow the clothes
very quickly.
The qualities in clothes that are most important to teenagers are fit and
style. They may not be guided by the quality of fabric or its construction.
Adolescents not only wear new styles, they also create new styles. They
are earnest followers of fashion and fads. They would like to spend large
sums of money for their clothing. Dressing the way peers are dressed or
imitating their role models in dress is a sign of their struggle for a sense
of identity.

302
FIGURE 9: APPAREL DESIGNS FOR ADOLESCENTS
When dressing up for sports or workouts, one should make choice of
clothes and shoes that are comfortable and prevents such problems as
strains, blisters, sprains and sore legs and ankles. Fabrics should be easy
to wash, as simple hygiene can save the skin from irritation and rashes.
Garment design and fabric should allow for free movement and absorption
of perspiration.

14.5 Clothes for Children with Special

Needs
You would now agree that apart from protection, clothing provides an
opportunity to the child to develop a sense of autonomy and competence. It
communicates impressions of the self to others in the social environment.
Sometimes children with disability may have limited physical movement,
but they have all the potential for learning and growing.
The task of dressing and undressing is very important for children
with special needs. Depending on the nature of disability, some children
are able to dress themselves independently. This gives them emotional
satisfaction and also a feeling of pride. But if the child is severely disabled
or incontinent, she/he is helped by the carer, making the process time
consuming and tiresome.

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Garments for children with special needs are selected according to the
type of disability and the associated difficulties. As comfort is the primary
criterion, cotton is the most preferred fabric for summer, and velvet
corduroy and cotswool for winter. The garments selected should be strong
so as to withstand abrasion in case the children use orthotic devices or
wheel chairs. Garments should have reinforcements at specified areas
for calipers and braces. Openings should be easily accessible and easy
to fasten. Hence, velcros and zippers with key chains are good choices.
Needless to say, garments should be easy to wash. Wearing and taking off
should be simple, and so wider necklines, waist belts with elastics, front
open plackets and front pockets can be the preferred choices.
It’s very important to look at the aesthetic appeal of the clothes. They
should look like clothes for any child, well-stitched yet easy to wear. They
should be appealing in colour and print so that the wearer feels good.
However, the best garment is the one that is constructed to cater to the
individual needs of the wearer and carer.
On the whole, this chapter informs us that what children wear, i.e.,
their apparel, has an important role in their personality development. The
clothes not only must be appealing to the eye and comfortable to wear, but
also ecologically and socio-culturally appropriate.
With this chapter we conclude the unit on childhood. Having studied
303
adolescence in the first two Units, we now move to adulthood from the
next section, i.e., Unit IV.

Key terms

Apparel, Clothes, Fashion, Clothing need, Childhood stages, Children with

special needs.

n REVIEW QUESTIONS
1. Give any three reasons for why you wear clothes.
2. What are the factors that affect the selection of clothing for children?
3. Discuss any four clothing needs of children.
4. Why do children’s clothing requirements change with age? Discuss the
clothing features of children at infancy, preschool age and elementary
school years.
5. What should be the features of clothes for children with special needs?

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n PRACTICAL 15
Our Apparel
Theme: Clothing practices related to various occasions
Tasks: 1. Record the different types of apparel used for various
occupations, rites and rituals.
2. Find out the significance for their usage.

Purpose of practical: To help the students understand the significance of

clothing practices for various occupations, and rites and rituals.
Conduct of practical
(A) With respect to occupation–
• Observe and interact with people involved in any of these professions
– Medicine, Defence, Government Department, Construction or any other.
• List the fabric type, colour and apparel worn by them.
(B) With respect to rites and rituals
• Observe and interact with people regarding any of the following
events– marriage, child birth, death and initiation ceremonies like
mundan and namkaran.
304 • List the fabric type, apparel, colour and designs of the clothing worn by
them.
(C) Prepare an illustrative report with discussion and suggestions on
appropriateness of the apparel in terms of fabric, colour, design and texture.

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