Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector. A Study of Trouser World Bangladesh LTD

INTERNSHIP REPORT
ON
Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector.

A Study of Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd.
INTERNSHIP REPORT
ON
Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector.

A Study of Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd.
Submitted by:
Md. Mohiuddin
ID: 111-11-270
BBA Program
Daffodil International University.
Submitted to:
Professor Dr. Ahmed Fakhrul Alam
Department Of Business Administration,
Faculty of Business & Economics,
Submission Date: July 12, 2014

Trouser World Bangladesh
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL
July 12, 2014
Department of Business Administration
Faculty of Business & Economics
Daffodil International University
Subject: Internship report on Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector.
Dear Sir,
With profound respect and honor I would like to inform that, I have completed my
Internship Report titled “Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector A study on Trouser
World Bangladesh Ltd”. This is a partial requirement to fulfill my Bachelor of Business
Administration degree.
My paper covers the objectives and scope of the study, methods of collecting
information to prepare this paper, the limitations that I had in my preparations and I
have attempted with whatever expertise I have, analyze activity and prepare possible
recommendations and suggestions as to how it could have been improved. Under this
paper I hope that you will find all the necessary information of my study into my
findings and analyses. I express my sincere gratitude for your guidance and
suggestions in preparing the report. I would be glad to answer any inquiries and offer
clarifications if required.
Sincerely yours,
________________________
Md. Mohiuddin
Id- 111-11-270
i
©Daffodil International University
CERTIFICATE OF APPROVAL
This is to certify that Md. Mohiuddin, Student of BBA Program of our University
bearing Id: 111-11-270 has completed the internship report on “Merchandising
Activities in the RMG Sector- A study of Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd. In this regard
he practically worked in Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd from March 01, 2014 to June
30, 2014 under my supervision and instruction. This report supports the topic title
and fulfills the entire requirements. During the program he was sincere , proactive and
attentive to his work and I wish him every success in life.
I hereby accept the report as the successful completion of the internship program.
Department of Business Administration,
ii
ACCEPTANCE OF THE REPORT
Md.Mohiuddin, student of Marketing program in Daffodil International Univ5ersity,

bearing ID – 111-11-270, has submitted the Internship Report titled “ Merchandising
Activities in RMG Sector, a study of Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd” on July 12, 2014,
for the fulfillment of the requirements of BBA degree. He completed industrial training
from Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd, under the organization’s supervision.
iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
A warm felicitation goes for me to acknowledge the people, who hold the desirability
for encouraging, praising, assisting as well as believing me on the tasks of
merchandising activities what I have worked through my internship period.
At First, I would like to thank almighty for giving me the opportunity to complete my
internship. I also want to thank all the people, who have given their support and
assistance and extremely grateful to all of them for the completion of the report
successfully. Daffodil International University and Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd.
both provided me with enormous support and guidance for my internship program to
be completed successfully. Preparing this report was exciting and hard work at the
same time. It is for the first time that I have been able to gather real life experience by
working on RMG market.
I would like to thank Mr. Md. Riaz Ahmed, Managing Director of Trouser World
Bangladesh Ltd. and my reporting boss for his valuable time and constant guidelines
and encouragement throughout the internship period.
I would also like to thank my honorable supervisor, Professor Dr. Ahmed Fakhrul
Alam for his kind concern, valuable time, advice and constant guideline throughout
the internship period and making of the report. He was constantly supporting me with
his inspiring personality. I will always be thankful for hi s extraordinary reinforcement.
I would like to take the opportunity to thank Md. Ayub Nabi, General Manager,
Merchandising, Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd for being my on-site supervisor &
providing me time to time information, suggestion as well as procedures to work with
my topic. I also want to thank Mr. Afzal Surya, Manager, Merchandising of Trouser
World Bangladesh Ltd for being so cooperative in my work. I also thank Mr. Mozaharul
Islam, Assistant Manager, Merchandising, Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd for creating
a friendly environment & assist me with the information of my project. I want to thank
my team leader, Ms. Sabina Yesmin, Merchandising for helping me to get accustomed
with all the activities.
I will show my gratitude to all the Management & Non-Management Staffs who have
helped me during the internship period and the entire persons who somehow have
impact on me in completing my whole report.
And finally I would like to thank Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd. for providing me with
the opportunity to do my internship in the reputed group of organization.
iv
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The Readymade Garment (RMG) industry of Bangladesh has emerged as a competent garment producer
in global garment business in recent times. This industry has successfully transformed Bangladesh into
an export-oriented economy. The RMG industry also became the major foreign currency-earning sector
with highest rates of absorption of industrial employment.
The Merchandising department is the most important part of the export oriented
business. It increases the opportunity for entrepreneurship development in garment
sector. Thus it helps the unemployed people as well as the government to remove
unemployment problem and also play an important role in the economic development
of the country.
This is a great chance for me to do my internship in trouser world Bangladesh. This is

a large factory with all the facilities to composite yarn. Here the production process
runs from making yarn to fabric and from fabric to finished garment. In this age ,
Bangladesh is flourished with RMG sector where this division has its immense
contribution.
I have worked there three months as requirement of the internship phase of BBA
program under the Business administration. My topic is Merchandising Activities in
the RMG Sector in Spider Group as a Case . This Report is originated as a partial
requirement of BBA program.
In order to achieve perfect merchandising, one must know about all the activities
including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport, overhea ds, etc and also
about their costs, procedures, advantages and risk factors.
In the whole procedure of exporting garments to the retailer of abroad and to

communicate with them, merchandisers have a great influence and responsibilities.
When, the order is taken from buyer the duty comes to the floor of merchandisers and
before going production they do almost everything to make the business smooth. So,
the work starts with the order taking and making business relationship. Then sample
making, planning, booking of every single material for samples and getting approval
are all the key responsibilities of merchandisers. In case of production, sample goes in
bulk so, the responsibilities become huge and it comes to the relation with operation
also. I was selected for the buyer Bershka and this team is really supporting from any
side I wanted their help. Bershka is full with new styles and different designs which
push merchandisers to face huge stress and deal with lots of challenges. Here, these
all procedures are tried to be written as the team tried their best to help in preparing
this report.
v
Contents
Chapter Title Page

CHAPTER – ONE Introduction. 1-4
CHAPTER – TWO Co mp any profile. 5-9
CHAPTER – THREE Knitting depart ment. 10-47
CHAPTER – FOUR CAD dep art ment. 48-51
CHAPTER – FIVE Store & F abric D epa rt ment . 52-58
CHAPTER – SIX Sa mple depa rt ment. 59-64
CHAPTER – SEVEN Cutting depart ment. 65-71
CHAPTER – EIGHT Printing & E mbroidery dep art ment. 72-76
CHAPTER – NINE Sewing dep art ment. 77-92
CHAPTER – TEN Finishing depart ment. 93-99
CHAPTER – ELEVEN Quality Depa rt ment. 100-106
CHAPTER – TWELEVE Mark eting & mercha ndising. 107-118
CHAPTER – THIRTEEN Con clusions. 119-122
vi
1
Introduction:
RMG (Ready Made Garment) is very important and helpful for our Bangladesh.
Bangladesh has emerged as a key player in RMG (Ready Made Garment) sector since
1978. Textiles and clothing account for about 85% of total export earnings of
Bangladesh. Out of which, 75% comes from the apparel sector which covers the major
products of knit and woven shirts, blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters,
sports wears and many more casual and fashion items. The sector currently employs
approximately 1.5+ million workers, mostly females from underprivileged social
classes. I have completed this report on the basis of all the department of RMG sector
such as Merchandising Department, Commercial Department, Production
Department, Supply Chain Department, Human Resource Department, Compliance
Department, MIS Department, and relevant organization like BGMEA, BKMEA, Export
Promotion Buru, Yarn suppliers, Chittagong Port, Insurance Company, Shipping
Company. So by completing this report I get overall idea about RMG sector, so its
carry more value than any books.
Merchandising is an important work in garments sector. So that merchandiser job is

essential for every garment. In this job the employer must have need hard working
mind, convincing power, instant intelligence, powerful observation, patience etc.
Without merchandiser no garments can run smoothly.
Without buyer no garments company can exists. For this reason buyer satisfaction is
very important. Buyer means someone who buys the products from any organization.
In garments sector buyer means foreign people who come to our country to buy
products from our garments. At this time of giving order if buyer satisfied with the
help of merchandiser then the buyer will come again. Buyers another condition is
delivery the products in due time. Merchandiser take care this condition seriously.
Because if buyers do not get products due time then they will not come again that
garments. So merchandisers are handling and caring all kinds of work from taking
order to delivery products to buyers and always wants to satisfy them because
garments or garments sector‟s welfare depends on buyer‟s satisfaction.
I have chosen readymade garments industry to do my internship and the name of the
company is Trouser world Bangladesh Ltd. It is a private limited company.
Readymade garments are fast growing export sector in Bangladesh. The overall impact
of readymade garments export is certainly one of the most significant social and
economic developments in contemporary Bangladesh. In order to simulate rapid of the
country, particularly through industrialization, the government has adopted an open
door policy to attract foreign investment in Bangladesh. As a result there are about
2500 export oriented readymade garments in Bangladesh.
2
Objectives:
Objective means purpose of the report. The main objective of the study is to determine
the merchandising activities of the Garments sector of Bangladesh. The broad
objectives are as follows:
To know detail about RMG sector.

Getting idea about the shipping procedure .
To gather knowledge about RMG sector related organizations.
To know the management Procedure in Garments Industry.
To achieve idea about garments manufacturing process.
To know about the process of apparel industry.
To analyze the causes of labor unrest in the garment industry of Bangladesh.
To gather knowledge about the merchandising and total production system.
Methodology:
Methodology defines how we go through all the processes of research and how I have
proceeded on. Here includes the steps of conducting the report and the explanation of
the sources of data.
This report has been prepared on the basis of experience gathered during the period of
internship. For preparing the report, Data were collected from two sources, namely,
Primary data.
Secondary data., as described below:
Primary Data: I have got the information by what I am seeing in practical in My

Internship Period? What I did in practically? What was done by me for achieving my
objective? Like, Face to face conversation with the executive of t he organization, using
a questioner form to know the financial situation of the employee in their practical life,
another big opportunity was dealing with the customer, like, fabric and yarn
marketing. This opportunity gives me huge idea about the RMG sector.
Secondary Data: Secondary data source is a useful and easy source to collect
information on a specific subject. To prepare this report I use several form secondary
data. Like, annual report, and catalogue of the Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd,
Internet, etc.
3
Scope:
Scope means how many uses for completing this report space. During my internship
program I tried to gather as much as information as possible to illustrate a clear -cut
image about the importance of the merchandising and marketing section for the
export oriented garments and the value of the merchandiser for the garments
industry.
By reading the report we will able to know clear image about the importance of the
merchandising and marketing section for the export oriented garments and the
responsibilities of a production coordinator.
The overall production process of a garment and about the machineries, accessories
and the work forced that is required for a particular garment.
Limitations:
Limitation refers the obstacles I have to face for completing this report and what I
could not cover for this limitation. During my internship I have faced some limitations
to accomplish my report. I could not get much information from the Trouser World
Bangladesh due to their lack of effectiveness. Some major points are listed below,
Time constraint.
Merchandiser doesn‟t have enough time to give the information elaborately.
Lack of organizational chain of command.
Due to high employee turnover rate and lack of good reporting practices in the
factory, problems with collecting data have been faced.
No other garment‟s data has been compared with TWB‟s data. There might be
some discrepancies with other factories supply chain scenario.
Due to long distance between the factory and university campus it was very
difficult to communicate and meet with the supervisor.
4
5
Spider Gro up is one of the giant textile gro ups in Banglad esh. Spider Gro up in well -
organized textile gro up which is a 100% expo rt oriented textile factory. W ell
ma nagement and good employees are involved with this factory. As an intern ee I got a
training period of 120 days in Spider Group. I got training fro m different sectors in this
factory and gathered knowledge fro m there. So as a part of my internship progra m I
need to sub mit an a ssign ment about my training progra m.
General information abo ut factory :
Co mp any Na me : Tro user World Ba ngladesh Ltd.

Corpo rate Office Address : Ho use-89 (13 th FLR.), Road 28,
Sector 7, Uttara, DH AK A-1230.
Tel.: 8963544, Fax: 880-2-8961962
E- mail: [email protected] m
Factory Address : 640, Kunia, Jaydebp ur, G azipur.
Person To be Conta ct ed : Md. Ay ub Nabi Taw hid (Mark eting Ma nag er).
Md. Ripon Ch oud h ury (General Man ager).
Established : 2002
Ow nership : LI MIT ED CO MPANY.
Membership : a) BANGLADE SH GAR MENT S MANUF ECT UR ER &
EXP ORTE r AS SO CI ATI ON.
b) EXP ORT PR O MOTIO N BUR E AU OF
BANG LAD ES H.
c) BANG LADE SH TE XTI LE MI LLS AS SO CI ATIO N.
An n ual Sales : U.S.$ 9 MI LLI O N (APPX.)
Production Cap acity : 390,000 Dozen Garments per Year.
Catego ries : Menes, Ladies, and Children‟s.
Product : Knit, T- Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tank Top, Sports W ea rs.
Production Lead Time : Sa mple 7-14 Days, Order 6o-12 Days, Reo rder 45-
75 Days.
Factory Sp ace : 45ooo sft.
Numb er of Wo rker : 65o Person
Mission & Vision

WE AR E IN A MIS SIO N TO:
EX CE ED o ur custo mer‟s expectation s delivering right prod ucts in right ti me with excel
quality and custo mer service. E MPO W ER our Huma n Resource turning them into our
Best Asset. CO NTRI BUTE to the en ha ncement of our So ciety and En viron ment.
MAXI MIZ E Sh areholder‟s Value.
6
VISION:
We are focused to be the most preferred NAME to our stakeholders - custo mers,
employees, suppliers, so ciety and sh areholders.
Certificate:
OE KOT EX Certificate, Certificate of co mplian ce (W ARP) ISO Certificate
Location of Spider Gro up:
Spider Gro up is located at 4/2 A. 135 Gopalpur, Mun nu Nag ar Tongi, Gagipur,
Ba ngladesh.
Sister Co n cern s of North ern Spider G ro up:
Other group s and co mp anies under Spider

Gro up are given b ellow-
Bottoms Gallery Ltd.

Bottoms Bazaar Ltd.
Knit Bazaar Ltd.
Laundry Gate Ltd.
3R Thread Ltd.
Soider Sourcing Ltd.
7
Major buy ers with their Logo:
MQ
Sports Master
Driver
Original Marine
Tesco
C&A
Seppala
Tom And Tailor
T Ginatricot
H
E
Kappa
KappAhl
MARKETS THEY EXPORT TO:
Gaastra
Spider Gro up ca n prod uce wide rang e of products and they deals with so me of world
renow ned buyers fro m E urop e and US A mark et so me of tho se are with who m they
worked a nd those w ho m th ey are still working.
Products:
Ba sic T-Shirt Kids Item

Fan cy T-Shirt Ja cket
Tank Top Polo Shirt
All Types of Knitwea r's.
8
Company wise organ gram:

Organizational chart of TWBL: Organizational chart bearing vital importance for a
company, often represented by a schematic diagram. The organizational chart of
TWBL. is given below:
Board of Direction Chairman
Managing Direction
Manager (Marketing & Procurement)

DGM
Chief Executive Officer (CEO)
HR & Administration
Policy farming &

Market Research
implementation
Input
Recruitment
Procurement
Training & Staff
Development Product Selling
HR Control Manager
(Accounts & Finance) Manager (R& D)

GM Operation,
QC & Maintenance Process Research

Product Planning
& Development
Operation
General accounts &
Quality Control MIS
Maintenance Payroll
Inventory Share Issues
9
10
SWOT Analysis Of Trouser World Bangladesh:
Strength
Own Land: Factories of Trouser World Bangladesh Limited are established in

its own land.
Effective Manpower: Factories are well equipped with skilled, expertise
and productive manpower. They are doing their level best to deliver timely
shipment and exporting 100% quality garments.
Production of Fabrics: Mostly employees produce fabrics as per buyer‟s
requirement.
Innovative product line: Product lines are producing a unique &
innovative garment which is a very good sign for the industry.
Proper Management: Employees of Trouser World Bangladesh Limited
manages all the paper work quite nicely; supervises the production from start
to end and helps to ship the good s as per the requirement of buyers.
Production capacity: Production capacity of Trouser World Bangladesh
Limited is in average woven top 1.5 million per month, woven bottom- 0.45
million per month, knit-0.5 million per month.
Weakness
Eight percent of raw materials are imported from countries like China, Taiwan and
Korea. So inventory has maintained very strictly and product costs rises due to
problems in the customs and releasing of goods from the port.
Lack of skill labor is a serious problem. Whenever any machine gets out of order it has
to be fixed by bringing technicians and for this result costs are high.
Post purchase behavior: After shipment of the products, employees do

not collect actual post purchase behavior of buyers which is really a negative
sign for the industry.
Shortage of workers: As the Industry is not so big & the number of
employee is limited, sometimes it becomes really difficult to produce all the
goods timely & workload of the workers increase to a great extent if there is a
large shipment.
Subordinates absence in policy making : The subordinates do not
take any decision or take part in policy making in meeting. The decision always
comes from the top management which is de motivating.
Poor salary structure: As the industry is still in a struggling position, its
salary structure is not that much good in compare to the other industries.
11
Opportunity
Domestic annual readymade garments demand has an increasing trend. More orders
are coming from buyers and so its demand is increasing and so price is also
increasing. Trouser World Bangladesh Limited has an established market throughout
the country and so it enjoys good order quantity through the year. Company had
bonded warehouse so can take advantage of export facility and don‟t have to pay tax
for its important of raw materials. Operational efficiency and cost efficiency can be
improved further by building more skilled labor and setup of new automated
machines.
Covering UK & USA market: Recently some foreign countries are really
interested about making contract with Trouser World Bangladesh Limited
which is really good news. Covering more market area of EU & USA will hel p
the industry to establish quickly.
Diversification: Trouser World Bangladesh Limited can expand their
business by establishing the yarn, woven & sweater factories. It will help them
to minimize the risk.
Hiring dynamic & fresh Graduates: Trouser World Bangladesh Limited
can hire dynamic, young & fresh Graduates who can generate innovative ideas
& can lead to greater profit.
Attending Trade Fairs: Trouser World Bangladesh Limited can take part
in different trade & textile fair to get public attention and can get new ideas
related with today‟s business.
Threats
Recently the price of raw materials has increased dramatically specially fabrics, dying
etc. this put an adverse affect on the cost of production and moreover stock raw
materials become difficult, as too much working capital is needed. Overall profitability
decreases as a whole after the quota system was taken away in 2010. Intense
competition within industry becomes another threat for Trouser World. Price was
takes place in market. For a small difference in price buyer change their suppliers.
Absence of Spinning Plant: Trouser World Bangladesh Limited doesn‟t

have any Spinning Plant. For that reason their cost of production is high.
Competitors‟ smart move: Competitor industries are constantly offering
innovative and substitute a product which is a big threat for this industry.
Trade barriers: Increased trade barriers and quota system withdrawals are
the major threats for the newcomer industries.
Political imbalance: One of the major threats for Trouser World
Bangladesh Limited is the current political instability. Strike, Procrastination
etc are hampering the production process quite badly.
12
The Process of Textiles:

1. Textiles sta rt with Spinning. Spin ning mean s the pro cess of co nverting Fiber to yarn.
Like Cotton is a fiber.
2. Seco nd stage is prod ucing fabrics fro m yarn which is two types:
Knitting.
Weaving.
Knitting Department:
 History of D evelop ment of K nitwear in Ba ngladesh:
The R MG business started in Ba ngladesh in the 70s but it was then merely a ca sual
effort. In 1981-82 the co ntribution of Wo ven garments in the total expo rt wa s 1.10%.
Within a decade (10 Years) the co ntribution of Woven to the export basket beca me
42.83% (1990-91) and the knitwear sector‟s co ntribution was 7.64% (1990 -91). Now
Knitwea r ha s beco me the larg est export earning sector of Ba ngladesh contributing
40.01% to nation al export earnings at the end of 2009 -10 (July-Jun e).
 Advantag es of Ba ngladeshi Knitwear S ector:
Knitwea r is a near self-sufficient sector in all resp ect. Currently BK ME A memb ers are
supplying 90% of the knit fabric req uirements of the sector. Lo cal yarn suppliers
provide aro und 75% of the total req uirement of th e sector. We ha ve more tha n 250
co mpo site (co mposite mean s knitting & wet processing togeth er also called knit dyeing
factory) factories; besides the co mposite units ma ny garments ha ve th eir own dyeing
and finishing units. Banglad eshi Knitwea r is exported to about 150 co untries in the
world. EU and the US A are the major imp orter. Cap acity is increa sing at a good rate to
cope with the future dema nd of this sector. Ba ngladesh provides labor forces unp arallel
in stitching capability and skill low labor wage. A factory req uires sepa rate electric line,
co mp resso r (to clea n dust fro m fiber), generator, broiler, gas line, ETP Plant etc.
Knitting:
Knitting is the process to develop a fabric by intermeshing of loops. Basically knitting is
the tech niq ue of con structing textile struct ures by forming contin uo us length of yarn
into columns of vertically intermesh ed loops. There are basically two types of knitting
process and th ey are-
Wa rp Knitting.
Weft knitting.
13
Typ es of Knitting:
Knitting
Weft Warp
Knitting Knitting
Circular
Flat Knitting
Knitting
Automatic/ Hand Flat Double

Single Jersey
Computerize Knitting Jersey
Non
Inter Lock Rib Jacquard
Jacquard
Non Non
Jacquard Jacquard
Jacquard Jacquard
Warp Knitting is method of forming fabric by knitting in which the loops are made
in a vertical way along the length of the fabric fro m ea ch yarn and intermeshing of
loops takes place in flat form on a length wise basis.
Warp Knitting
Weft & warp knit

Warp knitted Fabrics
14
Weft & warp knit:

Weft Knitting is a method of forming fabric by knitting in which th e loops are mad e in
a horizontal way fro m a single yarn a nd intermeshing of loops takes place in a circular
or flat form on a course wise ba sis.
Weft Knitting Weft knitted Fabrics
Weft Knitting Machines:
Flat Bed: So meti mes referred to as “Flatbeds” or “V -beds” due to th e nat ure and
arrang ements of the knitting beds wh ere two opposing needle beds are positioned so
that the upper ends form a reversed “V”. Needles slide up and down the beds in slots
know n as “tricks” and in this ca se th e gaug e ref ers to the n umber of needles per 1 inch.
Flat bed
Circul ar Knit: There are 2 types of circular knitting ma chin es which produce long
lengths of tub ular fabric and quite often they are man ufa ctured with very specific end
uses in mind. Two types of ma chin e:
Single Jersey Machine: Single Jersey Machine mean s it is capable to stitch

with on e set of needles.
Double Jersey Machines: Do uble Jersey Machine mean s it is cap able to stitch
with two set of needles.
Circular knit
15
** In weft knitting process there are Wales which are according to width wise of the
knitted fabric and co urses w hich a re a ccording to length wise of the fabric.
A Wal e is vertical column of intermesh ed needle loops produced by the sa me needle

knitting at su ccessive knitting cycle.
A Course is a horizontal row of needle loops prod uced by the adjacent needle during
sa me knitting cycle.
Basics of KNITTING:
KNITTING: is forming loops thro ugh those previously formed. This interloping and the
contin uo us formati on of mo re loops into ea ch other prod uce the knitted fabric
structure.
 So me I mpo rtant Termi nology:
Needle L oop : It is the basic unit of knitted structure. It con sists of a head (H) and 2
side legs (L). At the base of ea ch leg is a foot (F), which meshes thro ug h the head of the
loop formed at the previous knitting cycle. Th e loop is the funda mental element of all
knitted fabrics. It is a basic unit con sisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with
previo usly formed basic units (stitches).
Stitch: The stitch is th e smallest di mensio nally stable unit of all knitted fabrics. It
con sists of a yarn loop, which is held together by being intermesh ed with anot her stitch
or other loops.
Stitch d ensity: It is the n umber of stitch es per unit area of a knitted fabr ic (loops /
cm2).
Stitch l ength: It is the length of yarn in a knitted loop.
Needle l oop : It is on e which ha s been drawn th ro ugh a previo us loop.
Sinker l oop: A sinker loop is one w hich con nects adjacent needle loops.
16
Face L oop: D uring loop formation, when the new loop emerges thro ugh the old loop
fro m back to the face (or front) side.
Back L oop : If th e new loop passes fro m the face side to the back side of old loop, it is
called as back loop.
(T he uppe r
pa rt of the
loop Ne edl e
L oop
produced by
the ne e dl e
dra wi ng the
ya rn is call ed
the ne e dl e
loop.)
[Si nker L oop

The l owe r part of the knitte d
loop is te chni call y re fe rre d as
sinker l oop.]
Wale(s): Wale is predo min antly vertical column of needle loops prod uced by sa me
needle knitting at successive knitting cycle. Wale is produced with different yarn but
single needle.
Course: Co urse is a predo min antly ho rizontal row of loops produced by adjacent
needles during the sa me knitting cycle. Course is mad e with single yarn but vario us
needles.
Course Length: In weft knitting, the term „co urse length‟ refers to the mea surement of
a straight length of yarn knitted by all or a fraction of the needles in the production of a
particular course.
Gauge/ Machine Gauge: Gaug e is th e term used to describe the n eedle spa cing. It can
be defined as the n umb er of needles per unit inch. Th e ga uge is the major factor in
determi ning the fabric density and app ea ra nce. How ma ny needles a re there in one
inch? If m/c gaug e is high like 32 then in one inch mo re loops will be crea ted.
17
Cylind er: Cylinder is a steel circular bed ha ving grooves/tricks/cuts on its outer
periphery into which the n eedles are mo unted. With referen ce to the tricks, the needles
move vertically up and down by their butt being in contact with the ca m tra ck. The
numb er of tricks per inch i.e., numb er of needles per inch decides the gaug e of the
ma chin e.
Dial: Dial is the upp er steel needle bed used in double knit machines. Into the grooves
of th e dial, the needles are mo unted horizontally and are allowed to mo ve radically in
and out by their dial ca ms. The number of groo ves per unit space co nforms to the
cylinder gaug e in most of the ca ses.
Dialer:
Needle: Th e needle is th e basic element of loop formation. There are three mo st

co mmo nly used types of needle.
Latch Needle, Spring beard ed needle, Co mpo und n eedle.
Latch needle: It consists of a hook portion at the top and a latch riveted at certain
distan ce fro m the needle head. Latch n eedles are given sliding movement s in individual
grooves called tricks of the cylinder.
The n eedle con sists of six main pa rts:
Stem – U sed to hold th e co urse of old loops.

Hook – Th e hook is used to catch a thread and form loops.
Rivet – Holds the latch in place a nd allows it to pivot.
Latch – The latch co mbin es th e task perfo rmed by th e
presser bar a nd the b eard of the beard ed needle.
Butt – The b utt enables th e mo vement of the n eedle
to be co ntrolled by a ca m mecha nism. A tra ck raises a nd
lowers th e needle.
Tail – Used to provide suppo rt to th e needle.
18
Sp ring beard ed needl e: This needle co nsists of a top hook curved downw ard s with a
finish ed tip and the downw ard extension is called bea rd. A small eye or groove is cut in
the stem, to receive the point of the needle beard wh en it is closed. There are five main
parts:
The stem around w hich the needle loop is formed.

The head wh ere the stem is turn ed into a hook to draw th e new loop throug h the
old loop.
The bea rd which is the curved downw ard s continuation of the ho ok that is used
to sep arate th e trapp ed new loop inside fro m the o ld loop as it slides off the
needle bea rd.
The eye or groove cut in the stem to receive the pointed tip the beard wh en it is
passed, thus enclosing the n ew loop.
The sh ank which may be bent for individual location in the machine or cast with
others in a metal lead.
Comp ound needle: Co mpo und needle con sists of a hollow steel tube in which a ho ok -
closing element which is also a steel tub e is inserted. Co mpo und needle con sists of two
sep arately control parts i.e. the hook and closing element. This needle is mo re
co mplicated tha n other needles. Its two parts rise and fall as a single unit. But at the
top of the rise, the h ook moves faster to be open ed and at the start of the fall the hook
moves dow n faster to be closed.
19
Sinker: The sinker is the seco nd pri ma ry knitting element. It is a thin metal plate
placed between the two adjoining needles a nd h as a collective edge.
Loop formation
Holding dow n,
Kno cking over.
Loop formation: O n beard ed needle weft knitting machines of the straight bar fra me
and sinker wheel type, th e main purpo se of a sinker is to sink or kink the n ewly laid
yarn into a loop, as its forward edg e or catch adva n ces between the two adjacent
needles.
Holding d own: The second a nd more co mmo n function of sinker on mod ern ma chin es
is to hold down the old loops fro m their h ooks.
Knocking over: O n latch n eedles machines and tricot warp knitting ma chin es the
upper surfa ce o r belly suppo rts the old loop as the ne w loop is draw n thro ugh it.
Knitting Cams/Stitches: The knitting ca ms are h ard en ed steels a nd they are the
assembly of different ca m plates so that a track for butt can be arra nged. Ea ch needle
movement is obtained by mean s of ca ms a cting on the needle butts.
20
 Yarn Feeding to Needle:
Knitting cam: Knitting is an element which acts directly on to th e butts of needles or

other elements to produce individual or serial movement. Knitting ca ms are attach ed,
eith er individually or in unit form, to a ca m plate and depending upo n th e machine
design, are fixed, ex ch angeable or adjustable. Based on the arrangements knitting
stitches are of three types as well as the cams also.
There are three types of ca ms a nd as according, three types of

Knitted Stitches.
Knit Ca m (Stitch),
Tuck Ca m (Stitch),
Miss Ca m (Stitch).
Knit Stitch: The knit stitch is the ba sic stitch. It is also called th e plain stitch. Knit
stitch is formed wh en the needle carries out a co mplete cycle, rea ching th e maxi mum
height on the looping plan e.
Tuck Stitch: A tuck stitch is formed when a knitti ng needle holds its old loop and then
receives a new yarn. Two loops then collect in the needle hook. The previously formed
knitted loop is called the held loop and the loop which join s it is a tuck loop. The tuck
loop will always lie at the back of the h eld loop.
Tuck Stitch
Miss Stitch: A miss stitch is created when one or more knitting needles are deactivated
and do not mo ve into position to accept the yarn. Th e yarn si mply passes by and no
stitch is formed. The float will lie freely on the reverse side of the held loop, which is the
tech nical back, and in the ca se of rib and interlock struct ures it will be inside the
fabric.
Miss Stitch
21
 FLOW CHART OF KNITTING:
YARN IN FEEDING THE YARN WITHDRAWING

CONE CREELING IN KNITTING THE INSPECTION NUMBERING DISPATCHING
FORM THE FEEDER ROLLED FABRIC
Organ gram of knitting section:
AGM Knit. Executive (5) APO Operator Helper

Supervisor
Manager
22
In knitting section of Spider Gro up following yarn s are used for knitting:
Combed Yarn,
Carded Yarn,
PC Yarn,
Viscose Yarn,
Polyester Yarn,
Organic Cotton Yarn,
Spandex Yarn,
Nappy Yarn etc.
The differen ce between card ed yarn & co mb yarn is given below:
1.The yarn that is obtained without

1. The yarn that is obtained by combing is
combing is called carded yarn. 2.Quality
called combed yarn. 2. Quality of combed
of carded yarn not better than combed
yarn better than carded yarn. 3. Short
yarn. 3. Short fiber % is high. 4. Combing
fiber % is low. 4. Combing action is done
action is not done here. 5. Less strength.
here. 5. Higher strength. 6. Regular.
6. Irregular.
 Machine I nformation:
Total No. of Ma chin es: 54
Total No. of Circula r Knitting Machine: 32
Single Jersey Machine: 16
Rib Ma chin e: 14,
Auto Stripe Machine: 2
Total No. of Flat Knitting Ma chine: 22
Shi ma Seiki Flat Knitting Ma chine: 18

Matsuya Flat Knitting Ma chine: 4
23
Brand U sed for Ma chin es-
Brand Origin No. of Machines Machine Type

FU KU HARA Jap an 24 Circular Knitting Machine
MAYE R & CIE Germany 18 Circular Knitting Machine
KIU M Y OU N G Korea 8 Circular Knitting Machine
MON ARCH England 18 Circular Knitting Machine
MAT SUYA Chin a 4 Flat Knitting Machine
SHIMA SE IKI Jap an 4 Flat Knitting Machine
 Flat Knitting Machine Specification:
In Spider G ro up, there are total 22 flat knitting machines. All are of two brand of sa me
origin. Ba sic production of these machines is solid collar, cuff, picot collar, tipping
collar etc.
 Different Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:
Circular Knitting Ma chin e ha s different impo rtant parts which are used very much in
knitting prod uction. These pa rts description are given bello w-
Creel:
Creel is a part of a knitting ma chin e. Here yarn packag es are store and ready to feed in
the ma chin e.
V DQ Pulley:
It is a very i mporta nt part of th e ma chin e. It controls th e q uality of th e prod uct.

Altering the position of the ten sion pulley cha nges the G.S. M. of the fabric. If pulley
moves toward s the positive directive then the G.S. M. will decrea se. And in the reverse
direction G.S. M will increa se.
Pulley Bel t:
It controls th e rotation of the MPF w heel.
Brush:
It clea ns the p ulley belt.
Tension Disk:
It controls th e tension of the supply yarn.
24
Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion:
It is an i mporta nt part of th e machine. It stops the machine instantly wh en a yarn is

broken.
Yarn Guide:
It helps the ya rn to feed in the feed er.
MPF Wheel:
It controls th e speed of th e MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the w heel.
MPF:
It is Hemming e positive feed. It is also an i mporta nt part of the ma chin e. It gives

positive feed to the machine.
Feeder Ring:
It is a ring wh ere all feed ers are placed together.
Feeder:
Feed er helps yarn to feed into the machine.
Needle:
It is a principal element of the knitting machine. It helps th e yarn to create a loop. And
by this way fabric is prod uced. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old
loop fro m the hook, and received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is
then en closed in the n eedle h ook as th e needle starts to descend.
Needle Track:
Here all n eedles are placed together in a decent design.
Sinker:
It is the most i mporta nt element of the ma chin e. It helps to form th e loop, kno cking
over and h olding down th e loop.
Sinker Ring:
Sinker ring is a ring, where all sinkers are placed together.
Cam box:
Here ca ms are set horizontally.
25
Cam:
Ca m is a device which con verts the rotary machine drive into a suitable
recipro cating action for the n eedle a nd other elements.
Lycra A ttachment:
Lycra is placed h ere and feeding to the machine.
Lycra Stop Motion:
It is on e kind of stop motion to stop the machine w hen the Lycia is broken.
Cylind er:
Needle track a re situated here.
Cylind er Balancer:
It helps the cylinder to set in a proper align ment.
Screen:
It is a digital screen which sho ws all the ma chin e information and we can give
co mma nd to th e ma chin e.
Automatic Oiler:
It gives the machine oil all the time properly and a uto matically.
Inverter:
It is the h ea rt of the circula r knitting machine. It controls the sp eed of the machine.
Power Switch:
Give the pow er to the machine.
ON/OFF Switch:
It helps the ma chin e to start and stop.
Manual Drive:
Drive th e ma chine man ually.
Machine Motherboard:
All the Electro nic parts a re placed h ere.
26
 Circular Knitting Machine Specificat ion:
In Spider Group, t here are t ot al 32 m achines of different brands of different origin. T hese circular knitting
machine’s specifications are given bellow wit hin a t able -
Mc Runni ng
Sl . N o . Di a Ga u g e N o . o f Fe e d e r M c Typ e M c B ra n d Model Ori gi n D i re cti o n
1 34 28/24 102 Keum Yong K M -3 W V X K o re a C l o ck w i se
5 30 28 96 M o n a r ch ( Fu k u h a ra ) O D V X C -3 S E n gl a n d C l o ck w i se
9 30 24/32 90 Keum Yong K L M -7 2 A V K o re a C l o ck w i se

Single Jersey
A n ti
10 34 24/28 108 May er & Ci e R E L A N I T 3 . 2 -I I Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
A n ti
11 34 24/28 108 May er & Ci e R E L A N I T 3 . 2 -I I Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
A n ti
12 30 28 96 Te rro t S B F-1 9 6 Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
A n ti
13 30 20/12 96 Te rro t S -2 9 6 Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
A n ti
14 38 24 123 May er & Ci e R E L A N I T 3 . 2 -I I Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
A n ti
15 36 24 114 May er & Ci e R E L A N I T 3 . 2 -I I Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
16 30 20/24 96 May er & Ci e S 4 -3 . 2 Ge r m a n y C l o ck w i se
Mc Runni ng
Sl . N o . Ga u g e N o . o f Fe e d e r M c Typ e M c B ra n d Model Ori gi n
Di a D i re cti o n
1 30 20 48 S/ j Fu k u h a ra FX -S D Y Ja p a n C l o ck w i se
E. St ri p e
2 30 28 48 (4 c ol or) Fu k u h a ra FX -S / Y Ja p a n C l o ck w i se
Mc Runni ng
1 34 24 82 Keum Yong K L M -7 2 A V K o re a C l o ck w i se
INTERL OCK
4 30 24 72 Keum Yong K L M -7 2 A V K o re a C l o ck w i se
A n ti
5 36 24 102 Fu k u h a m a FI L -8 A E Ta i w a n cl o ck w i se
A n ti
6 30 24 84 Fu k u h a ra FI L -8 A E Ja p a n cl o ck w i se
A n ti
7 30 22 84 Fu k u h a ra FI L -8 A E Ja p a n cl o ck w i se
Mc Runni ng
27
A n ti
Rib/Inter Lock
1 34 18/24 72 May er & Ci e D 4 -2 . 2 Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
A n ti
A n ti
A n ti
Mc Runni ng
A n ti
1 30 18 62 May er & Ci e FV -2 . 0 Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
RIB
A n ti
2 30 18 72 Te rro t U P -4 7 2 Ge r m a n y cl o ck w i se
A n ti
3 30 18 72 Fu k u h a ra V L P -J3 B Ja p a n cl o ck w i se
 Co mmo n ha nd tools used in knitting:

L-key, W renge,
T-key, Ha ck-saw,
Knife, Plyer,
cutting plyer.
 I mporta nt Knitting Para meters:
Stitch Length:
Stitch length is the ratio of co urse length and total no. of needle knitting in the
ma chin e. But in factory, stitch length is the linea r length of yarn having 100 loops.
Usually in single jersey fabric stitch length is 2.80 mm/100 loops. So me i mporta nt
factor related to stitch length a re-
 GS M decrea se with the increase of stitch length If stitch length increase then
fabric width increa se and WPI decrease For deep shad e of sa me GS M fabric,
stitch length sho uld be higher a nd vice- versa.
GS M
GS M is the weight of 1 square meter knitted fabric. Basically GS M ca n be determi ned

by using of GS M Cutter.
So me i mporta nt factor related to GS M of fabric are-
 Gray GS M sh ould be less tha n finish GS M increa se with increase of stitch length
and it is adjusted by VDQ p ulley GS M ca n be ch ang ed for using of enzy me level
For variation of color, GS M ca n be varied S ued e or non - sued e purpose, G S M can
be ch ang ed If shrinkag e increa se th en G S M increase
28
Co unt
Co unt of a yarn is a numerical expression which indicates its finen ess or coarsen ess.
i.e. wh ether the yarn is thin or thick. There are basically two system of mea suring yarn
co unt- Direct System a nd Indirect System. So me i mporta nt factor related to yarn count
are-
 If co unt increa se th en fabric width increa se G S M d epends o n yarn co unt.
Ga uge
Ga uge is the no. of needle placed per one inch of the cylind er or dial in a knitting
ma chin e. So me I mpo rtant factor related with Needle G a uge are-
 For finer ga uge fin er count sho uld be use If machine ga uge increase then fabric
width decrease If gauge decrea se th en stitch length increase.
Feed er
Feed er is an imp orta nt knitting element. In knitting machin es, positive and negative
feeding system is including. Positive feeding system delivers a pred etermi ned length of
yarn to all the needles knitting in one co mplete revolution of the ma chin e. Negative
feeding system exert s no control over th e length of yarn which is feed to the n eedles.
So me factor related to feed er a re-
 Production in crease with increase of feeder no Feeder is settled in case of stripe

fabric
Design
A knit fabric has a design which is firstly set on the ma chin e by ca m arrang ement and
needle set out.
Fabric D esign n eed s followings-
Ca m setting.
Set of needle.
Size of loop shap e.
Feeder Stripe and E ngineering Stripe:
In ca se of stripe knitted fabric there are basically two types of stripe are possible. One
is feeder stripe which are done by normal circular knitting machine by using different
dyed yarn and another type is engineering stripe which is also na med as a uto stripe
and is prod uced by using different dyed yarn with the help of auto stripe circular
knitting ma chine.
29
 Feed er Stripe
By ca ref ul arra ngement of the packages of the colored yarn s on a large dia meter multi
feeder ma chin e, an elaborate seq uence of stripes ha ving a depth that is rep eated at
ea ch ma chine revolution is obtained. The depth of stripe may vary depend ent on fabric
style, total no. of feeder of the ma chin e and stitch length.
 Engineering Stripe
The stripe ca n be produced on auto stripe ma chin e with any depth of stripes. Fabr ic
structure may be single jersey or double jersey. Auto stripper unit is used at ea ch feed
for selection of color. The facility of yarn cha nging by stripping finger selection, which
ca n provide a choice of one fro m four or five or six yarns at a particula r feed point
during each ma chine revol ution.
Following t able shows the differences between feeder stripe and engineering stripe -
Feeder Stripe Engineering Strip e
Less no. of feed ers are used. Mo re no. of feed ers are used.
Auto matic yarn selection is not Automatic yarn selection is possible.
possible. Auto Stripper unit is present here.
No Auto Stripper unit.
Stripe size is small. Stripe size is large.
Less no. of color is used. Mo re no. of color is used.
No finger selection system. Auto matic finger selection system.
Knitted Fabric:
There are ba sically two types of weft knitted fabric-
 Single Jersey fabrics a re those which are prod uced in single cylinder circular
knitting ma chines.
 Do uble jersey fabrics are produced fro m do uble cylinder or dial -cylinder circular
knitting ma chines. Weft Knitted Fabrics are divided into four types according to
the struct ure- Plain, Rib, Interlock, and P url.
Characteristics of plain singl e jersey knitted fabric:
Face side and back side of fabric are different. Curl or roll of fabric occurs at the edges.
Wales are clea rly visible on the face side of the fabric. Extensibility in widthwise is
approxi mat ely twice than length.
30
Unraveling of fabric occurs fro m either side is possible. Thickn ess of fabric is
approxi mat ely twice the dia meter of yarn used. There is only one series of knitted loop
per co urses in the fabric.
Derivatives of single j ersey:
Single La coste, Double Lacoste, Single pique, Polo pique/do uble pique, two thread
fleeces, and three thread fleece.
Characteristics of Rib knitted fabric:
The appearan ce of face and ba ck are identical. Fabric length wise and width wise
exten sibility is approxi mat ely that of single jersey Fabric does not curl at edges Fabric
thick ness is approxi mately twice tha n single jersey There are two series of knitted loops
arrang ed into two parallel in a course Co mbin ation of W ales of face loops and back
loops a re present on th e both side of the fabric.
31
Derivatives of rib:
2x2 rib half cardiga n or royal rib F ull cardigan or polka rib Swiss do uble pique Fren ch
double pique 5x1 Derby rib.
Characteristics of Interlock knitted fabric:
Interlock th e technical face of plain on both sides so the appearan ce of face and back
are sa me Th e Wales of each side re exa ctly apposite to each other and are locked
togeth er. Widthwise and length elongations are appro xi mately the sa me as single jersey
The fabric does not curl at the edges T he fabric ca n be unraveled fro m the knitted last
Two yarn must be remo ved to unravel a co mplete repeat of knitted co urses. Fabric
thick ness is approxi mately twice tha n that of single jersey.
Single Jersey Fabric vs. Double J ersey Fabric:
Single Jersey and Do uble Jersey are of basic weft knitted struct ures. This two fabrics
ha s so me differen ces a nd these differen ces are showing in following table -
Single Jersey Fabric: Double Jersey Fabric:

Basic single jersey fabric is plain structure.
1 set needle is used for product ion of single Basic double jersey fabrics are rib and
jersey fabric .
interlock structures.
No. of ne edle bed used for production of this

2 set needles are used for production of double
fabric is only 1 .
jersey fabric.
Fewer needles are used only in cylinder.
No. of needle bed used for production of this
Sinker and sinker cam are used during fabric is 2.
production of single jersey fabric.
More needles are used in bot h dial and Cylinder.
Larger needle gauge is used.
During production of double jersey fabric, no
Less expensive fabrics.
sinker and sinker cam are used.
Single jersey fabric can be pulled out freely from
Smaller needle gauge is used.
either end.
More expensive fabric.
When cut t he fabric tends to curl t ow ards t he Double jersey fabric cannot be pulled out freely
front at the end and t ow ards t he back at t he from either end.
sides.
It lies flat wit hout curl w hen cut the fabric.
Production rat e of t his fabric is high.
Production rat e is low .
32
Other Fabric Prod uced in Spid er Group:
In Spider Gro up knitting section, al most every day single jersey plain fabric, rib and
fleece are prod uced. But so meti mes so me derivatives of single and double jersey fabrics
are also produced in Spider Gro up.
So me Single Jersey Derivatives are-: Single La coste, Double Laco ste, Polo Pique, Cro ss
Miss, Do uble Cro ss Miss, Terry, Fleece etc.
So me Do uble Jersey D erivatives are-: 1x1 Rib, 2x2 Rib, 5X2 Rib, Flat Back Rib, Waffle,
Plaited Interlock etc.
Fleece vs. Terry:
Fleece and Terry both are derivatives of single jersey fabric. These two fabrics are of
si milar catego ries but are different for their structure and app earan ces. The differences
between fleece a nd terry fabric are given bellow -
Fleece Terry
Binding yarn is
In terry, needles
used in fleece
are essential.
fabric.
3 threads are 2 threads are

used for fleece used for fleece
production. production.
If spandex yarn is If spandex yarn is

used, then it is used, then it is
attached with attached with
binding yarn. plain loop yarn.
Other Fabric Prod uced in Spid er Group:
In Spider Gro up knitting section, al most every day single jersey plain fabric, rib and
fleece are prod uced. But so meti mes so me derivatives of single and double jersey fabrics
are also produced in Spider Gro up.
33
Some Single J ersey Deri vatives are-
Single Lacoste, Do uble La co ste, Polo Pique, Cro ss Miss, Double Cro ss Miss, Terry,
Fleece etc.
Some Double Jersey Derivatives are-
1x1 Rib, 2x2 Ribs, 5X2 Rib, Flat Back Rib, Waffle, Plaited Interlock etc.
Fabric Swatches Prod uced in Spider Group:
In Spider Gro up Knitting Section so me derivatives of single Jersey, Rib, Interlock fabric
are prod uced, These fabric sa mples are given bellow with their Swatch, design, Can
Arra ngements and Needle S et Out.
X X X X
X X X X
Here,
X X X X
X = Knit Loop K = Knit Cam X X X X
- = Miss Loop M = Miss Cam
= Tuck Loop T = Tuck Cam
 SIN GLE JE RSEY PLAIN FABRIC:
Notation Diagram
Needle Set Out Cam Arrangement
34
K K K K K K T K
K K K K T K K K
 SIN GLE L ACOSTE FABRIC:

X X
X X X X
X X
X X X X
Notation Diagram
 DOU BLE L ACOSTE FABRIC:
X X
X X
X X X X
X X
X X
X X X X
Notation Diagram
Needle Set Out Needle Set Out Cam Arrangement
35
1X1 INTE RLOCK FABRIC:

D K M K M
M K M K
C M K M K
K M K M
Notation Diagram
1X1 RIB FABRIC:
D K K K K K K
K K K K K K
C K K K K K K
K K K K K K
Notation Diagram
2X2 RIB FABRIC
D K K K K K K
K K K K K K
C K K K K K K
K K K K K K
Notation Diagram
36
D X X X X D 1 1
X X X X 2 2
C X X X X C 1 1
X X X X 2 2
D X X X X D 1
X X X X 2
C X X X X C 1
X X X X 2
FLEE CE FABRIC:
Notation Diagram
1 X X X
X X X
2 - -
3 X X X
X X X
- -
X X X
X X X
- -
37
MESH FABRIC:
Cam Arrangement
Dial M K M K M M M K M K M K
M K M K M M M K M K M K
K T K T K K K M K M K M
Cylinder K M K M K K K M K M K M
K M K M K K K T K T K T
Needle Set Out
Dial 1
Cylinder 2 2
K K T K K M K K M
K K M K K T K K M
K K M K K M K K T
38
Production Cal cul ation:
 Production/shift in kg at 100% efficien cy =
RPMNo.of Fee der No.of Nee dle SL(m m)

3527.80Yarnc ount
Numb er of needle for single jersey = xDx G.
Numb er of needle for rib = 2 x xDxG.
Production/Shift in meter =  Co urse / min
Course / cm
RPM  No . of Feeder
Course / cm  100
Fabric Width in meter =
Total no . of wales
Wales / cm  100
Total no . of Needles used in knitting
Wales / cm  100
39
Production Parameter:
Machine Dia meter.

No. of feed ers in use.
Machine Ga uge.
Co unt of yarn.
Req uired ti me ( M/C running ti me).
Machine running efficien cy.
Considerable Points to Prod uce Knitted Fabrics:
W hen a buyer orders for fabric th en th ey mention so me points related to production

and q uality. Befo re prod uction of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider.
Those are as follows-
Finished G. S. M.
Type of Fab ric or design of Fabric.
Yarn co unt.
Types of yarn (co mbed or card ed).
Dia meter of the fabric.
Stitch length.
Color depth.
Quality Control in Knitting Section:
To produce high quality fabric it is necessa ry to inspect the fabric roll after receiving
fro m different ma chin e. This is done to assure th e q uality of the fabric before dying.
Inspection Procedure:
As the fabric is produced by the circular knitting machine it is then collect ed by the
quality inspector and the fabric is thoro ug hly inspected in m/c. During this inspection
the holes, oil ma rks, sinker ma rks, needle mark s, barred effects etc. are checked. If the
fabric is within the accepta nce level (by 4 point system) then it is sent to the batch
section for dyeing or delivery. Spider Gro up follows the four point grading system to
inspect the body & rib of the fabric. In the 4 point system th e faults are found ed by
inspection a nd are given points again st th e fault. Then the total no. is calculated.
40
Process Fl ow Chart for Fabric Inspection:
For inspection of the fabric in Spider Gro up, following flow cha rt is followed -
Collect yarn test and sa mple develop ment repo rt before sta rt knitting.
Ch eck all yarn para meters (yarn count, yarn q uality, yarn lot for respective buyer).
Start knitting as p er greige booking i.e.: dia, GS M etc.
On Line Sy stem off Line Sy stem. Machine insp ection a s per 4 point system.
Ch eck stitch length a nd grey G S M. Collect the roll fro m the floor.
Ch eck K nit Card with knitting fault,
which ca n be found during knitting -
(As n eedle mark, Sinker ma rk etc.)
Process # 01: ma chin e Stop Ma chin e- Set the roll in the inspection.
Cut Fabric Roll Check both part of-
Fabric fro m different angle.
Process # 02: Slow the Ma chin e RP M- Start the ma chine a nd ch eck every meter a s.
per 4 point system. (Inch motion) W atch
Fabric run ning fro m different angle.
If found a ny problem inform Q /C Make a report (if OK then deliver to grey store
Officer and Production Officer. For batching, if not OK then reject and inform
ma nager).
41
Knitting Faul ts, Their causes and Remedies:
A defect in th e knitted fabric is an ab normality, which spoils the aesth etics i.e. the
clean & uniform appeara nce of the fabric & effects the performan ce para meters, like;
di men sional stability etc. There are va rious types of defects which ca use a great ha rm
to the knitted fabric. So me defects may ca use the rejection of the fabric. So me
importa nt Knitted fabric fa ults are follows-
Drop Stitches (Holes):
Drop Stitches are rando mly appearing small or big holes of the, sa me or different size,
which appea r as d efects, in the K nitted fabrics.
Major Ca uses:
High Yarn Ten sion,
Yarn Overf eed or U nderfeed,
High Fabric Tak e Dow n Tension,
Obstruction s in the yarn pa ssage, due to the clogging of eyelets, yarn guides & tension
discs, with wa x & fluff etc.
Defects like; Slubs, Nep s, Knots etc. In correct gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings.
Remedies:
En sure uniform y arn tension o n all the feed ers, with a Ten sion Meter.
Rate of yarn feed sho uld be strictly reg ulated, as per the req uired Stitch Length.
The fabric tub e sh ould be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too slack.
Eyelets & the Y arn G uides, sho uld not ha ve, any fibers, fluff & wax etc. stuck in them.
The yarn being used sho uld ha ve no imp erf ections, like; Slubs, Neps& big knots etc The
gap between the Cylinder & the Dial sho uld, be correctly adjusted, as per th e knitted
loop size.
42
Barrenness
Ba rren ness defect appea rs in the Knitted fabric, in the form of horizontal stri pes of
uniform o r va riable width.
Major Ca uses:
High Yarn Ten sion,
Co unt Variation,
Mixing of the ya rn lots,
Packag e ha rdn ess variation.
Remedies:
En sure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feed ers. The average Co unt variation in the lot,
sho uld not be mo re tha n + 0.3 Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the
sa me Lot / Merg e no. En sure that the ha rdn ess of, all the yarn pack ages, is uniform,
using a h ard ness tester.
Snarls:
Sn arls appear on the fabric surfa ce, in the form of big loops of yarn gett ing twisted, due
to the high twist in the yarn (Unbalan ced twist yarn).
Major Ca uses:
High, twist in the, yarn. Hosiery yarn s are soft twisted. High, twist in the yarn, is the
ca use of sn arling. (Sna rls ca use, fabric defects & n eedle break ages).
Remedies:
En sure using Ho siery Yarn s, of the reco m mended T.P. M. only. (Hold a few inch es of the
yarn in both the ha nd s, in the form of a „U‟. The yarn h as a balan ced twist, if it doesn‟t
tend to rotate or turn, in the form of a snarl. (Such yarn ca n be used for Hosi ery
applications.)
Contaminations
Conta mi nations app ear, in the form of foreign matter, such a s; dyed fibers, h usk, dead
fibers etc., in the staple sp un yarn o r emb edded in the k nitted fabric structure.
Major Ca uses:
Presence of dead fibers & other foreign materials, such as; dyed fibers, husk &
synth etic fibers etc. Dead Fibers appear in th e fabric, as a result of th e, presence of
excessive i mmat ure Cotton fibers, in the Cotton fiber crop. Dead fibers do not pick up
43
color during Dyeing. Presence of the foreign materials, in th e, staple fiber mixing (Kitty,
Husk, Brok en Seed s, dyed fibers & fibers like Poly Propylen e, Polyester, Visco se etc)
Dyed & other types of fibers flying fro m the adjacent Knitting ma chin es cling, to the
yarn being used for knitting & g et, emb edded in the G rey F abric.
Remedies:
Use rich fiber mixing for the yarn s, to be used for Knitting, in order to have less dead
fibers, appea ring in the fabric. Rigid control measures in the Blow Roo m, to prevent the
mixing of foreign matters in the Co tton mixing. Seg regat e th e Spinning & Knitting
Machines, with Plastic Curtains or Mosquito Nets, to prevent the fibers flying fro m the
neighboring machines, fro m getting embedd ed in the yarn / fabric.
Spiraled
Spiraled appea rs in the form of a twisted garment, after washing. The sea ms on both
the sides of the garment displace, fro m their position & appea r on the front & back of
the garment.
Major Ca uses:
Spiraled is ca used, by th e Twisting Torque as a result, of the hig h yarn T.P.M.) Un even
Fabric Take down ten sion, on the K nitting ma chin e. Unequal rate of Fabric feed on the
Stinted, Calenda rs & Co mpa ctor ma chines.
Remedies:
Use the Hosiery yarn s of th e reco mmend ed TPM level for Knitting (Hosiery yarns are
soft twisted, in co mp ariso n to the W arp yarns) Fabric pull or the Take Do wn ten sion,
on both sides of the grey fabric tube, on the knitting ma chin e, sho uld be equal. En sure
uniform rate of feed of the dyed fabric, on both the edges, while feeding the fabric to the
Coland er, Co mpa ctor or Stinted ma chines.
Needle Lines:
Needle lines are pro min ent, vertical lines, along the length of the fabric, which are
ea sily visible in the grey as w ell as finished fabric.
Major Ca uses:
Bent Latch es, Needle Hook s & Needle stems Tight Needles in the grooves W ro ng Needle
selection (Wrong seq uen ce of needles, p ut in the Cylinder or Dial).
Remedies:
Insp ect the grey fabric on the knitting machine for any Needle lines. Replace all the
defective n eedles ha ving, bent latches, hooks or stems. Rem o ve the fibers a ccumulated
44
in, the Needle tricks (grooves). Replace any bent Needles, running tight in the tricks.
Ch eck th e Needle filling seq uen ce in the Cylinder / Dial grooves (tricks).
Horizontal lines:
Ca uses:
Fa ult in bobbin Irregular tension o n ca ms.
Remedies:
Replace that bobbin.
Ch eck ca ms po sitioning .
Broken Needles/Laddering
Defects ca used by th e broken needles, sho w pro minently, as vertical lines parallel to
the W ales. There a re no loops formed in the Wale, which h as a brok en needle.
Major Ca uses:
High Yarn Ten sion Bad S etting of the Ya rn F eed ers Old & Wo rn o ut Needle set
Remedies:
En sure uniform & the right Yarn ten sion on all the feeders. Keep th e reco m mended
gap, between the Yarn Feeders & the Needles. Periodically cha nge the c o mplete set of
needles.
45
Sinker Lines:
Sinker lines are pro mi nent or feeble vertical lines, appearing parallel to the Wales,
along th e length of the k nitted fabric tube.
Major Ca uses:
Bent or Wo rn o ut Sinkers being tight in, the Sink er Ring grooves
Remedies:
Replace, all th e worn out or bent sink ers, ca using Sinker lines in th e fabric. Sinker
lines are very fine & feeble vertical lines, appea ring in the fabric. Remove the fibers,
clogging the Sinker tricks (Groo ves)
Oil Lines:
Oil lines are pro minent vertical lines, which appea r along the length of the knitted
fabric tub e. The lin es beco me perman ent, if the needle oil used is not washable & gets
baked, due to the h eat, during th e finishing of the fabric.
Major Ca uses:
Fibers & fluff accumulated in the needle tricks, which remain soak ed with oil.
Excessive oiling of the, n eedle bed s.
Remedies:
Fibers, accumulated in the n eedle tricks, ca use the oil to seep into th e Fabric. So me
lubricating oils are not wa sh able & can not be remo ved during Sco uring. Oil li nes
appea r in th e fabric, in the lengthwise direction, even after dyeing. Remo ve all the
Needles & the Sinkers of the machine, periodically. Clea n the grooves of the Cylinder &
Dial of the machine thoro ug hly, with petrol. Blow the groo ves of the Cylinder, Dial &
Sinker ring, with dry air after cleaning.
Broken Ends:
Brok en end s appea r as eq uidistant, pro min ent horizontal lin es, along the width of the
fabric tub e, wh en a ya rn break s or is exh a usted.
Major Ca uses:
High Yarn Ten sion Ya rn exh a usted o n the Co nes.
46
Remedies:
En sure correct yarn tension o n all the feed ers. En sure that the Ya rn detectors on all
the feeders are working properly. D eput e a skilled & alert ma chine operator, on the
knitting ma chine.
Fabric Press Off:
Fabric press off appea rs, as a big or small hole in the fabric, ca used due to the
interruption of the, loop forming process, as a result of th e yarn breakage, or closed
needle hook s. Press off takes place, wh en th e yarn feeding to both the short butt & long
butt needles, sudd enly stops, due to th e yarn break age. At times, co mplete fabric tube
ca n fall off the needles, if the needle detectors are not functioning, or are not properly
set.
Major Ca uses:
End breakage on feed ers, with all needles knitting. Yarn feeder remaining in lifted up
position, due to which, th e yarn do esn‟t get fed in the hook s of the needles.
Remedies:
Needle detectors, sh ould be set precisely, to detect the closed n eedles & prevent the
fabric tub e fro m co mpletely pressing off. Proper yarn tension sho uld be maintain ed, on
all the feeders.
GSM Variation:
The fabric will appea r to have a visible variation in the density, fro m roll to roll or
within the sa me roll of, the sa me dye lot.
Major Ca uses:
Roll to roll variation in the, process pa ra meters, of the fabric, like; Overfee d &
Widthwise stretching of the dyed fabric, on the Stinted, Coland er & Co mp actor
ma chin es. Roll to roll variation in the fabric stitch length.
Remedies:
Make sure that all the fabric rolls in a lot, are processed under the sa me pro cess
para meters. The Knitting Ma chin e settings, like; the Q uality Pulley dia meter etc. sho uld
never be disturb ed.
47
48
CAD Department:
CAD mean s Co mp uter Aided Design. CAD and Pattern section is one of the mo st
importa nt sections in R MG secto r. In CAD and Pattern section so me i mporta nt
activities have don e. After getting orders fro m buyer‟s CAD section plays an i mporta nt
role fro m the beginning of a production to the last. CAD depart ment provides fabric
con sumption as w ell as garment con sumption and also pr o vide pattern and mark er
which a re most imp ortant part before prod uction of a garment.
Dyeing &Finishing:
After co mp etition of knitting, a fabric sho uld go to take treat ment with dyeing and
finishing ch emi cals to dyeing and finishing sector. It is necessary to take treat ment
with finishing of a fabric before it goes into sewing production. Finishing para meters
sho uld be maintain ed according to buyer‟s satisfaction. In Spider G ro up dyeing section
is in No rthern Co rporation Li mited which is so me far a way distan ce fro m the corpo rate
factory. As a ma nag ement trainee officer, it was necessary to take a look about dyeing
and finishing section but it wa s a misfortune to me that during my training progra m
dyeing and finishing section wa s not involved in my t raining sch ed ule.
Orga n gra m of CAD:
Manager Executive/Pattern Senior Assistant

Master Supervisor Marker Man
Supervisor
49
Pattern:
Pattern is a ha rd paper design which is made by following each individual co mpo nent
for a particular style of garment. Pattern s are mad e as a template of the fabric parts
which is made o n ha rd paper to rep resent the fabric parts.
Types of Pattern:
Basic pattern.
Block pattern.
Patte rn m/c in CAD of N TG.
Mark er:
Mark er is a thin paper which contain s all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of garments in such a way that fabric wastage would be least. Mark er
making is on e very i mporta nt task which is don e to red uce fabric wastag e due to
cutting necessary fabric according to the sizes of fabric. Generally all the fabric parts of
all different size of fabric pattern s are placed on a thin paper in such ma n ner so that
there will be mini mal free spa ce. This mark er is used to cut the fabric fro m th e lay.
Marke r m/c in CAD of N TG
50
Types of Mark er:
There are many types of ma rker used in NT G Available Mark er
1 bod y 1 way.
All bod y 1 way.
Group marker.
Manpo wer: In CAD d epart ment in Spider G ro up total ma npow er list is given below -
Pattern master 5
Mark er man 1
Senior S uperviso r 1
Assistant Supervisor 1
Machine used in CAD Section:
Mark er machine: BOK (China) 2 set
Pattern Ma chin e: Bok (Chin a)
Mark er efficiency:
Mark er efeiciency % = Total area of pattern =100 %
Total area of marker
Fabric Con sumption calculation:
Fabric Co n sumption per doz en =
CBody Length + Sleeve Length Kx ½ Ch est Length x 2 x GS M x 12

+W
10000000
51
52
Store & Fabric Inspection Department:

Store is an i mporta nt depa rt ment in R MG sector. In a garment factory store plays a
vital role because in store fabric and accessories are stored in a well -man aged way. In
spider Gro up store is well -orga nized with their inventory process, issuing process and
receiving process.
Objectives:
To receive th e sa mple and b ulk order sh eet fro m merch andiser.
To receive th e fabric fro m factory .
To reco rd the a mo unt of fabric.
To supply the fabric according to the cutting req uirement etc.
Types of store:
a) Main store: All types of accessories & fabric are stored here which co me fro m anoth er
factory. Here also kept machine parts, guides, finishing accessories, stationeries,
ma chin es etc.
b) Sub store: acco rding to th e daily requirement s of sewing & finishing depa rt ment,
co me fro m main store by req uisition.
c) Fabric store: all type of fabric stored in here regarding to the mercha ndiser booking.
d) Co nstruction store: all types of co nstruction materials are stored here.
Types of material inventory in store:

1. Raw materials,
 Dye sto re.
 Oth er chemi cals.
 Grey fabrics.
2. Finish ed fabric.
3. Spa re pa rts.
4. Gen eral store.
– Capital eq uip ments
– Accessories
– Station ary
– Mainten an ce pa rts.
Receiving Process:
Receiving Purcha se Order/ Pro Forma In voice,

Receiving memo o n custo mer property fro m mercha ndising.
53
Merchandising Process:
Receiving ET A information fro m i mpo rted items,
Does the b uyer send fabric speci men?
Receive fabric tri ms speci men sw atch available,
Receive goods with relevant documents,
Verify documents including invoice again st purcha se order,
Arra nge to verify security in spection of ca rgo,
Unload and k eep und er q uantitative status,
Ch eck correction s and q uality of items,
Enter d etails in stock databa se,
Inform discrep an cies to ma rch within 5 days,
Send fabric/tri m swatch for appro val,
Update databa se,
Receive appro ved b ulk swatch,
QC insp ection,
Update store databa se,
QC inspection passed.
Issuing Process:
Production Co-ordin ation:
Issue fab ric and a ccessories for tri m card preparation.

Issue fab ric, accessories and pa cking materials on receipt of fabric req uisition.
Cutting, Sewing & Finishing Pro cess:
Update fabric register and a ccessories register,

Receive mo nthly req uirement sh eet, Store a nd purcha se req uisition.
Merch andising Pro cess:
Forw ard mo nthly req uirement sh eet a nd purcha se req uisition to mark eting dept.
Issue items as per req uisition,
Raise gate pa ss for a ny items sent out,
Send balan ce sto ck repo rt after co mp etition of order,
Update on loan ba sis issue register w hen an item issue.
54
Inventory Control:
Store is th e place wh ere every type of raw materials, spares, finish ed goods are kept in
proper system. Inventory control mea ns the accurate calculation and data of every type
of raw materials, spares and finish ed goods in ti me to time store. Inventory control in
textile mill are n ecessary beca use,
1. To know abo ut the req uired a mo unt of raw material .

2. To be contin ued th e prod uction process.
3. To find out the profit or loss of a co mpa ny .
Frequency of Inventory Update:

Mo nthly inventory control.
An n ual inventory co ntrol.
Inventory System for Raw Material:

1. Raw materials partially received fro m production plan ning & directly fro m head
office.
2. Material receiving & inspection repo rt is prepared. Received qua ntity is mentioned
and noted dow n.
3. S ub mitted to Q.C. So me a re OK & few reject ed.
4. Entry of data of goods in D AT ATE X.
5. Good s are arra nged acco rding to OK or reject ed group.
6. Dep art ment gives store req uisition to wareho use.
7. as per req uisition materials supplied & this record a re not ed down.
Store for Raw materials:

Different types of fabrics available in the raw materials store like:
Single jersey,
Do uble jersey,
Rib fabric,
Fleece,
Interlock,
Piq ue etc.
55
Store for Accessories:

Trims a nd accesso ries a re a vailable here:
Different types of tri ms.

Different types of label.
Sewing thread.
Tissue paper.
Poly.
Tag pin.
Price sticker.
Button.
Zipper.
Sho ulder tap e.
Scotch tape.
Needles et c.
Stages of Grey Fabric Inventory Control:

knitting prod uction
Grey insp ection
Wa reho use.
Batch prep aration
Spares: In any textile mill req uired a mo unt of spea rs of different ma chines are stored in
the mech anical store roo m. All the sp ea rs are listed in a sheet which is controlled by
the mech anical & mainten an ce perso nn el. Spares are arrang ed in th e store roo m
according to their size, q ua ntity & req uirements. There are shelves in the store roo m to
keep the small spare parts.
Stages of Finished Fabric Inventory Control:

1. Finishing section.
2. Final insp ection.
3. W areho use.
Finished Goods: Any textile mill supplies its finish ed dyed fabrics to its garments
section. So, dyed finished fabrics are stored for short ti me in the fi nishing section. All
the delivered fabrics are noted on the tally book according to the lot no, quantity,
fabrics dia met er, buyer's na me, Color & co nsidering oth er technical para meters.
Others: Normally keep a central store at mill. In that store the va rious types of forms,
papers; stationary & oth er n ecessa ry goods are kept.
56
Manpower list:
Manp ower No. of manp ower
Store manager 1
Asst. Store manager 2
Sup ervisor 5
Checker 5
Store officer 2
Loader 1o
Total 25
Inventory Procedure:
Bin Ca rd,
Store R eq uisition,
Store Ledger Account,
Daily Insp ection & Pa ckag e Repo rt,
Mo nthly Stock & Co n sumption Repo rt,
Mo nthly LIC wise D elivery Repo rt,
Received Delivery & Bala nce Stock.
Types of Machineries used in Fabric inspection in TIL

In TIL 4 types of insp ection M/c are used. They are:
– Fabric insp ection m/c (total numb er 4) .

– GS M cutter (total n umb er 1) .
– Weight scale (total n umb er 1) .
– Over lock stitch m/c (total number 1).
Equipments:
– Rack.
– Calculator.
– Weight ma chine.
– Trolley etc.
GSM Cutter: GS M Cutter
GS M mea ns gra ms per sq uare meter of a knit, woven or no n woven fabric. It is

essential to know the weight of the fabric before man ufa cturing and after getting the
finish ed fabric. It n eed s to measure the w eight of the fabric to be sure abo ut the
finish ed weight of the fabric. This test ca n be carried out in different ways but it is very
ea sy to know th e weight of the fabric by cutting the fabric with the GS M cutter.
57
Working Procedure of GSM Cutter:

Taking the sa mple of fabric fro m b ulk and co nditioning for 4.30 to 06 ho urs
Taking the co nditioning fabric for test on the G.S. M. Cutter pad so that no crea se or
crinkle is formed,
Cutting the fabric with G.S. M. cutter (GS M Cutter Dia meter 11.2 cm)
Taking the weight of the cut fabric (Length & Width 11.2 cm) in balan ce and multiply
with 100,
Get the G S M of the fabric in oz/yard .
Measure the GSM of the Fabri c by GSM Cutter: It is one type of physical
test of the fabric w hich is known a s off line q uality assuran ce sy stem. By the following
way we can measure the w eight of the fabric.
– Cut the fabric with the G S M cutter (gra m p er sq uare inch).

– Weight the fabric with the electric bala nce.
– The cut sa mple is 100 sq.cm. Th e weight of the cut sa mple is multiplied by 100.
– The result is the G S M of that particular fabric.
58
59
Sample Department:
Sa mple section is one of the most i mporta nt sections in any garment factory because in
sa mple section sa mples are produced acco rding to buy er‟s satisfaction. After
co mpletion of making sa mples a cco rding to buyer‟s satisfaction the product will go to
bulk prod uction within certain period of ti me. So we ca n say that, before bulk
production of a garment it is necessary to produce sa mple acco rding to buy er‟s choice
and approvals. Sa mple Prod uction Cap acity is 15o per day.
Orga n gra m of sa mple section:
Sample In-
charge.
Coordinator Coordinator
Cutting Sewing Quality

Supervisor Supervisor Supervisor
Cutting Sample Quality

Man- 4 Man- 3 Man- 3
Input &
Cleaner- 1 Iron Man-2
Helper- 2
Folding
Mechanic- 1
Man- 1
Working pro ced ure of sa mple depa rt ment:
Step: 1) sa mple depart ment receive req uisition & take piece fro m mercha ndiser.
Step: 2) sa mple depa rt ment prep are daily as well as Likely plan for sa mple sub mission.
As p er merch andiser req uire date.
Step: 3) sa mple depart ment collect pattern fro m CAD depa rt ment.
Step: 4) sa mple depart ment make 1 pc mock up for style review meeting.
60
Step: 5) sa mple depart ment ha ndo ver mock up sa mple for style review meeting to
central IE depart ment tha n central IE depa rt ment arrang e style review meeting any
ch ang es co me than I discus with mercha ndiser to man age that ch ang es then if buyer
approved that then I go for first sa mple.
Step: 6) after received of fabric I resister fabric q ua ntity in the resister book. I also do
the fabric relax 24 ho urs before cutting.
Step: 7) I do the fabric wash before cutting if buyer req uired garment s wa sh or garment
dye & I take final approval fro m mercha ndiser.
Step: 8) after received accessories I test wa sh & others I prep are trim ca rd I get
approval mercha ndiser.
Step: 9) before cutting I ch eck body + cuff + neck rib shad e & get approval fro m
mercha ndiser. After getting appro val then I go for cutting & keep th e document in daily
cutting production file.
Step: 10) after cutting co mplete I 100% check the cut pan el & if req uired
print/embroidery then I send for print/emb roidery factory.
Step: 11) after receiving the print/embroidery part I ch eck it very carefully & I keep the
document in print/emb roidery check file. Reg arding print & embroidery wa sh test
approval I get fro m merch andiser.
Step: 12) I a m ready to inp ut in input box after received the pr int/emb roidery part &
kinds of accessories and keep the do cuments in the daily ready input file.
Step: 13) before mak e any sa mple I do th e meeting with sa mple ma n, sup ervisor &
sa mple quality.
Step: 14) After do the meeting I go for sa mple mak e & keep in d aily sewing production
file.
Step: 15) After sewing co mplete I ch eck sa mple & send to washing factory for wa sh if
buyer req uired garment wash or garments dye.
Step: 16) After wash co mplete I go for check & finish th e sa mple & kept the documents
in daily finishing prod uction file.
Step: 17) after finishing co mplete I send the sa mple individually to merch andiser &
CAD with check list & measurement list & keep th e documents in the sa mple delivery
resister book.
61
Types of Sa mple:
In sa mple depart ment for different buyer‟s lot of sa mples are produced in sa mple
depart ment. Sa mples are given below -
1. Develop ment Sa mple, 11. Rag Tag S a mple,
2. Co unter S a mple, 12. Size set S a mple,
3. Pre-production Sa mple, 13. Shipping Sa mple,
4. Photo Sa mple, 14. Styling Sa mple,
5. Proto Sa mple, 15. Test S a mple,
6. Fit Sa mple, 16. Test S a mple,
7. Sales Sa mple, 17. W ash in Ho use,
8. Sales Sa mple, 18. Revision Sa mple,
9. Mock up Sa mple, 19. Pilot run s Sa mple.
10. Sales and Mark eting Sa mple,
62
Standard operating procedure (SOP) of sample section

After developing any new style sa mple
Development ha nging on ha nger with a poly,
sample,
After sending the first/fit/proto

Proto/fit/First sa mple I keep this sa mple in the
sample, ha nger & develop ment sa mple I keep
in a mention ed buyer box with a poly,

Size set sample, sa mple I keep this sa mple in the
ha nger & develop ment sa mple I keep

Photo Sample, sa mple I keep this sa mple in the
ha nger & develop ment sa mple I keep

Counter/QSI sa mple I keep this sa mple in the
Sample, ha nger & develop ment sa mple I keep

Preproduction sa mple I keep this sa mple in the
Sample, ha nger & develop ment sa mple I keep
After shipment the

order I keep the all
sample in a cart on Duration up to six month.
with marking buyer
Process Complete
name, style name &
quantity.
63
Booking Co nsumption Process:
64
65
Cutting Department:
Cutting is an i mporta nt term before sewing a product for ship ment. After co mpletion of
mark er making and getting fabric, fabric sh ould be cut properly according to mark er
measurement. Ma rker ca n be getting fro m CAD section and after that fabric sho uld be
spread out with different lays and then fabric will be cut by cutting machines.
So metimes cutting ma chin es are auto matic and so meti mes cutting machines are
ma n ually ha ndled. In cutting section auto matic and ma n ual cutting machine is used
whereas fabric spreading is done by auto matically by auto matic fabric spread er and
also ma n ually by h uman ha nd. In Spider Gro up cutting depart ment manp ower is in
total 135.
Orga n gra m of cutting in TIL:
Cutting manger
Cutting Executive
Cutting officer
Cutting senior super visor
Cutting super visor
Fabrics reporter super visor
Auto cutter super visor
Quality super visor (Cutting)
Quality super visor (fabric inspection)
Production reporter super visor
MIS super visor
Worker
66
Cutting process sch edule:
In Spider G ro up cutting process sch ed ule is given b elow -
Fabric Inspection
Spreading, Manual/ Automatic
Marketing
Marker Inspection
Cutting, Manual/ Automatic
Bundling
Numbering
Quality Inspection
Delivery to Sewing
67
PROCESS DESCRIPTION:
Cutting Plan ning:
Cutting Roo m Planning is very impo rtant and sh ould be done for every order. Good
plan ning helps in better utilization of available reso urces and imp ro ving cutting roo m
efficien cies. The cutting plan sho uld be mad e well in adva nce to allocate reso urces and
ch eck on fabric availability & flow for th e plann ed cutting. Various things that sho uld
be kept in mind w hile making cutting plan a re: -
 Req uirements of sewing roo m

 Availability & flow of raw - material i.e. fabric
 Available Ma npow er
 Con straints of work-place
Cutting Work o rder:
The plan ning depart ment issues a cutting work ord er to the cutting depa rt ment for
co mmen cing cutting for any particula r ord er. Th e work order states the size wise
quantity to be cut in that style and t he fabric req uired for the total qua ntity mentioned
in the work order. The cutting In-ch arg e mak es a daily cutting plan for the work order
quantity and does the reso urce allocation. The work ord er also gives an esti mate of the
fabric that sho uld be taken fro m th e fabric store.
Fabric R eceipt:
The cutting roo m in ch arge req uests fabric fro m the fabric store based on the daily
cutting plan mad e by the cutting roo m executive. The fabric is req uested using Fabric
Req uisition Slip format. The cutting roo m helper gets the fabric fro m th e stores &
transf ers it to cutting roo m with the help of fabric mo vement trolley . The fabric received
is stored in th e fabric rack s within the cutting -roo m.
Fabric R elaxation:
The fabric received in the roll form sho uld be relax ed for at least 12 ho urs und er
standa rd conditions before spreading. This is don e in order to take out any tensio n in
the fabric i mpa rted during finishing or winding so as to avoid any distortion while
spreading or cutting.
Mark er R eq uest:
The Cutting Executi ve req uests the ma rker fro m the CAD depa rt ment on a format
called CAD Mark er Req uisition Slip . The details of the fabric (e.g. width) received fro m
fabric store need s to be pro vided to the CAD roo m for mark er so that the provided
mark er co uld be adjusted a s per the received fabric to mini mize wa stage.
68
Spreading & Marking:
Before Spreading, the lay plan should be prepared & a lay order slip is generated by t he cutting executive.
The lay order slip provides all relevant det ails to t he spreader for the lay i.e . st yle, fabric width, no. of
plies, marker w ay, consumption for t hat lay etc. T he spreader has to follow the lay -order slip for
considerat ions during spreading & if she founds any deviations in the act ual, it should be reported to the
cutting executive. A fter t he spreading is done, the lay should be checked by t he QC and a format called
Cutting Room Inspect ion Report is generated. After t he lay is cleared by the QC, it goes for next operation
i.e. marking. T he marking could be done manually by patterns or paper marker could be fixed on top ply
to m ake it ready for manual cutting.
Cutting:
The ready t o cut lay is m oved onto the area allocated for cutting w ithin the spreading & cutting t able. Air -
flot ation table is used for easy movement of lays. The cutter c ut s the lay w ith the straight -knife along the
marker lines. For any small parts or sharp t urns, w here precision can’t be achieved by straight knife, the
parts can be taken t o band knife after block-cutting. For some st yles (e.g. engineered stripes) w here l ay
cutting is not possible due to matching of stripes, single piece cutting is done w ith t he help of scissors.
Numbering & Bundling:
Once the lay is cut the cut part s are numbered, all part s that makes one complete garment s are given
same number so as to avoid any mismatching of shade. After numbering t he pieces are bundled int o a
group of cert ain pieces. T he size of t he bundle is decided by the cutt ing-room in charge, in discussion
with t he sewing floor in charge.
Quality Audit:
All bundles need to be audited for quality before issuing to the sew ing lines. Quality audit on t he bundled
garment s is done by the cutting-room auditor w ho checks the bundles for bundle t icket descriptions,
correct sequence of ply numbers, presence of all part s etc. as mentioned in the format. The second audit
checks for t he pieces w .r.t. t he shade matching, notch positioning, etc. These audit s are conducted
following the AQL chart specifications & a format called Cutting Section Bundle Audit is filled.
Issue t o the Sew ing L ine:
The cut bundles are issued t o the sewing line on request from sew ing line supervisor. Det ail for issued
pieces is maint ained in t he Cutting Issue Register. T he cutting issue register records t he size wise issue to
each line for a part icular order. Along wit h t he bundles t he cutting depart ment also gives t o t he sewing
line a format called Production Issue Slip cont aining det ails of the bundles issued like bundle no, size, no
of pieces etc.
69
Machine Specification
In cutting depart ment there are straight knife cutting machines of different length and
auto matic cutting ma chin e are used for cutting fabric lay after spreading. There are
also so me fabric spreading machin es.
Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
Na me : Km
Model : KS-AUV
Speed : 3000/3600
Origin : Japan
No. of Machine: 14
Knife Height : 8’’ and 10’’
Aut omatic Cutting Machine:
Name : Topcut Bullmer
Aut omatic Cutting M achine (T opcut

No. of Machine : 1
Ply Height : 8-10 cm
Daily Cutting : 20000-25000 pcs.
Time for Pattern : 2-3 min.
Time for small : 70-80 sec.
Bullmer)
Cutting fabric w ith str aight knife m /c in NT G
70
Fusing Machine:
This is not sewing ma chin e. But we attach material. Like we attach interlining in polo
shirt. Also known as “Ba ckro n” These are attaching by heat. Th ere is glue in interlining
we call it ra cing dot.
Cutting Table Measurement:

In cutting depart ment there are total 13 cutting table wh ere fabrics are spread o ut and
after th en cutting will be co mpleted. So it is very much necessary to know abo ut the
measurement of all cutting tables beca use to maintain the length and width of the
fabric lays before cutting a nd ha ndling operations d uring spreading a nd cutting.
Table Numb er (cm) Length (cm) Width (cm) Height (cm)

1 22o7 2o2 92
2 22o7 2o2 92
3 22o7 2o2 92
4 22o7 2o2214 92
5 22o7 239 8o
6 22o7 155 84
7 247 155 84
8 247 122 84
9 244 2o3 77
1o 536 2o3.5 9o
11 716 2o3 86
12 716 2o3 86
13 716 2o3 86
71
72
Printing & Embroidery Department:

In Spider Group, there is a printing section na med Printers and Printers li mited where
almost all of the printing work is done. Here every kind of printing is ma nually screen
print. There is no rota ry screen print or all over print. In Spider Gro up there is also a
new emb roidery depart ment which activities ha ve started yet. After cutting garment
pieces the part which is n ecessa ry to be printed or is necessary to mak e a embroidery
work on the part will go to printing section and which will n eed ed to put an embroidery
work will go to embroidery section. After co mpleting printing and embroidery work the
parts will co me to cutting depart ment again and th en all the part of an order will then
go to sewing lin e as inp ut item for bulk production.
Flow Cha rt of Printing Section:
Artwork from merchandiser, Panel (cutting fabric part s), Counter sample Inspection t he fabric
Design input , Expose (frame adjusted) P P product ion, Fabric adjusted,
↓ ↓ ↓ ↓
Design development, Fila and frame adjusted, Accessories booking, extractor from dryer ,
↓ ↓ ↓ ↓
Positive/film , Pane l send t o buyer , Requisition by merchandiser for fabric ,
↓ ↓ ↓ ↓
Print taken, Buyer approval, Fabric received Inspect ion,
↓ ↓ ↓ ↓
Requisition by merchandiser , Sale sample , Count the fabric , Delivery.
73
PRINT D EF ECT S:
Color over lap.

Color run / cro ck / bleed.
Color smudg ed.
Dye spots.
Fa ulty registration.
Misp rint.
Print Flaw.
Print shad ed fro m on e edge to the other.
Print shad ed within the garment.
Print shad ed within the set.
Sh ading between garments [under grey scale rating 4].
Sh ading within garment [under grey scale rating 4 -5].
Print off center [greater tha n 1/4"].
Process Flow of E mbroidery:
E mbroidery is done a cco rding to the following sequence in an industry.
At first design ed the buy er design by CAD softwa re.
The design software install into the machine.
The fabric cla mped by the cla mp board .
Then run the ma chin e until finished th e design .
Then the fabric collects for delivery .
Fa ults in E mb roidery
Color mist ake Tension loose out line Short

Appliqué out /gap Tension tight Measurement (+/-) Zigzag St itch out
Bobbin loose Stitch gap off side embroidery Hole
74
Orga n gra m of embroidery section:
Man pow er of embroidery: 30 people.
Incharge
Assistant
Incharge
Merchandiser
Supervisor
Operator
Assistant
Operator
75
Machine Specification:
Na me: E mbroidery M/c.
Brand: Tajima.
Origin: Japa n.
Assembly: China.
Software use: Wilco m (US A) .
Color: 16.
20 pc products ca n embroidery at a time.
Total: 2 set.
Brand: Amay a.
Origin: US A.
Color: 16.
Types of emb roidery:
Normal emb roidery,
Appliqué emb roidery,
3D emb roidery,
Boring embroidery,
Sequence emb roidery,
Ari emb roidery.
Types of stitch:
Tata mi Stitch,
Satin Stitch,
Zigzag Stitch,
Progra m split Stitch,
Motif Stitch,
Co unter Stitch, R un Stitch.
76
77
Sewing Department:
Sewing is an i mporta nt section as well as an i mpo rtant task for garment prod uction.
After getting fabric and accesso ries it is necessary to attach all the parts acco rding to
buyer‟s given sa mple, style and order. In spider Gro up there are 3 sewing floors na med
Trouser world Banglad esh Li mited, Fashion Asia Limited and Mod ular Floor. Ma npow er
list in Spider Group is given b elow -
Sewing section Operator: 292

Helper: 99
Mod ular Floor Operat or: 93
Technical Section Operat or: 13
Total 497
Machine List:
In sewing line there are lots of sewing ma chin es. Th eir total list are given below -
PLAIN MACHINE 198 Set

OVE R L OCK MACHINE 149 Set
FLAT LOCK CYLIN DE RBE D MACHINE 1o1 Set
BACK TAPE / L APSEAM MACHINE 4 Set
BUTT ON HOLE MACHIN E 6 Set
BUTT ON ST IT CH MACHINE 6 Set
BART ACK MACHINE 2 Set
KAN SAI SPECIAL MACHIN E 1 Set
RIB CUTT IN G MACHINE 3 Set
CLOT H CUTT IN G MACHINE 8 Set
IRON WIT H STEAM BOILE R 3o Set
VACU M IRON IN G T ABLE 3o Set
THRE AD SUCKIN G MACHINE 2 Set
SNAP BU TTON MACHINE 2 Set
THRE AD T RIMMIIN G MACHINE 1 Set
FABRIC CHE CKIN G MACHINE 1 Set
SPOT CLEAN IN G MACHINE 2 Set
NEEDLE DETE CT ION MACHINE 1 Set
Tot al 547 Set
78
Different Types of Sewing Machine:

Single needl e Machine/ Plane Machine: there is only one n eedle in this
ma chin e. Also called plane ma chin e instead of single needle ma chine. Like house
hold M/C but they are hea vy duty machine. As these ma chin e can be run 6 days
contin uo usly. House hold ma chin e speed is highest 750 SP M (Stitch es per
Min ute). W hile ind ustrial ma chin e speed is 2800 SP M to 5400 SP M also we get
vario us options like folder, guide, feed etc.
Single Stitch
Double Stitch
Double needle Machine: there are two needles in this machine. Create parallel
line of stitches. Prod uctivity increases.
Over Lock Ma chine: after cutting fabric yarn co me out fro m side of the fabrics, so to
prevent it and to increase durability or long evity An over lock stitch sews over the edge
of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming or sea ming. There are va rious types of
over lock machine which is introduced by its thread. There is one thread over lock
ma chin e to six threads over lock ma chin e. Single thread, double thread, three threads
to six thread s over lock machine. But in garments ind ustry we use three to five thread
over lock. We normally don‟t get ord er for six threads over lock. 3T & 5T used in woven
garments & 4T is used for Knit garments, Und erg arments like, vest, underw ea r, bra,
panty, lingering.
Feed of the Arm: So me cylinder type garments req uire for stitch es. Like to stitch full
sleeve (sleeve is the part of a garment that co vers the arm, or thro ug h which the arm
passes or slips).
5T over l ock sti tch at

the e dge of f abri c
Sleeve
79
Multi Needle Machine (Kan sai Ma chin e): Kansai Co mpa ny first brought this type of
ma chin e in the mark et. The machine ca n use fro m 1 to 33 n eedle. This machine is
mostly use in tro user factory for west belt. And also for decorative purpo se w e use this
ma chin e. The machine uses less in knit facto ry a nd more use in wo ven factory.
Button Hole Machine: this machine is used to create hole in the button. And attach
button to fabric.
Eyelet Hole Ma chine: mainly to create hole in pant for button. This hole is called eye
hole or key hole.
Flat lock Machine: in knit garments factory two types of machine are very co mmon: Flat
lock & over lock Machine. Hemming, top stitching of knitted garments are don e by Flat
Lock Machine. The machine can be used for the h emming pro cess of the T -shirts, polo
shirts a nd for the covering pro cess.
Flat Lock Stitch
80
Button Attach / Button Stitch Ma chin e: we attach button to fabric with this machin e.
Metal detector: To detect Metal like broken needle head. We use this machine in sewing
section or finishing section.
Dial linking machine: Linking machines main job is to join individual knitt ing fabrics (such as Front & Back
part, Collar, Sleeves etc.) to make design shape. Laski brand Dial Linking machine is manufact ured by
imported high frequency carbon sheet.
Mechanism of Sewing Machine:
Specifications:
Ga uge: 3G, 5G, 7G, 8G, 9G, 10G, 12G, 14G, 16G, 18G, 20G .
Dial section dia meter: 356 mm(14") .

Tack
Linking efficient: 400 needles/min.
Trace type: ingle line linking .
Linking layers: 1~4 layers.
Input pow er: 90W (1/8HP) .
Power so urce (single phase): 50Hz 220V.
Weight: 30kg.
Numb er of needles of the linking ma chine: 3,5,6,8,10,12,1,4,1,6,18,20, 22.
Numb er of needles of the flat knitting machine: 1,5,3,5,7,9,10,12,14,16,18 .
Needle mod el: 7, 6, 5,4,3,2.
Stitch co unts: 20/2 ~24/2 .
81
Lock Stitch:
In house hold ma chine there is bobbin & bobbin ca se. And the stitch that is created by
this machine we call it lock stitch. So to get lock stitch we need needle, bobbin &
bobbin case.
Ch ain Stitch: There is other type of sewing machine which doesn‟t ha ve bobbin &
bobbin ca se. Instead it has lopper. There is no system to deposit th read in lopper. So
the thread s of lopper co me fro m outside so urce. The sewing ma chin es which ha ve
lopper system instead of Bobbin we get chain stitch. Th ere are va rious different types of
ch ain stitch. Th e stitch o utlook of the top & botto m of th e fabric i s different.
There are so me basic difference between lock stitch & chain stitch. Lock stitch is stiff,
tight, secured, do not loose easily. Lock stitches req uire less thread than ch ain stitch.
But chain stitch is loose. If pull fro m on e co rn er tha n the who le thread will co me out.
Ch ain stitch req uires more thread tha n lock stitch. There is single needle lock stitch &
also single needle ch ain stitch. A single needle lock stitch Chinese Juki machine costs
aro und Tk. 12,000/-. A single needle chain stitch Chinese Juki machine costs aro und
Tk. 35,000/-. But ch ain Stitch is stretchable, it has elasticity. Various parts of our
body are stretchable. So we req uire chain stitch in RG M. Like in west belt we use chain
stitch with Kan sa n multi needle machine. So a ny sew ing ma chin e will have either
bobbin or lopper.
LOOPER
Stitch Junction
82
Type of Stitches
BSI: British Sta nda rd Institute identified that there are six types of stitches:
Class-100 Ch ain Stitch: Single thread Bli n d Stit ch Ma c hi n e is u s e d Bott o m H e m of tro u se rs,
s ki rt et c.
Class-200 Ha nd Stitch: R G M sector ca nnot use ha nd stitch.
Class-300 Lo ck Stitch: Single needle lock stitch, double needle lock stitch, bar tuck,
button hole, and b utton stitch machine is used. All type of top stitches, botto m hem,
pocket join etc of woven garments.
Class-400 Multi Thread Ch ain Stitch: Machine: Single Needle Ch ain Stitch, Double
needle ch ain stitch, feed of the arm, Ka nsai Multi Needle, Eye/Key whole ma chin e is
used In sea m, side sea m, w aist belt etc of woven fabrics.
XXXX XXX XX XXX XXX XXX XXX XX X
Class-500 over Edge Chain Stitch: Ma chin e: Flat Lo ck Machine, All type of Over Lock
Machine is used. Top stitch es/botto m h emmi ng of knitted products, all type of joining,
edge sewing, for woven & knit garments .
Class-600 Covering Ch ain Stitch: (acco rding to BSI)/ Zigzag stitch (acco rding to IS O).
Machine: Flat Lo ck Ma chin e is used. Usag e: top stitches, botto m hemming for knit
products, & decoration stitch for woven & knit prod ucts.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
83
Thread consump tion for different machine:
Ma c hine
Stitc h type 1” T hrea d le ngth
Free code 1” 1”
Button hole L ock s titch 1” 15 i nche s
Button sti tch L ock s titch 1” 2 o i nches
S/N Si ngl e ne e dle 1” 2.5 i nches
S/N Doubl e ne e dle 1” 5 i nches
Fee d of the a rm Chai n s titch 1” 35 i nche s
3 thre ad O /L L ock s titch 1” 15 i nche s

4 thre ad O /L L ock s titch 1” 17 i nches
5 thre ad O /L Chai n s titch 1” 21 i nche s
Doubl e threa d O /L L ock s titch 1” 15 .5 i nche s
3 thre ad F/L Zi gza g 1” 19 i nche s

5 thre ad F/L Zi gza g 1” 25 .5 i nche s
Si ngl e ne e dle Ka ns hai Chai n s titch 1” 8 i nches
Doubl e ne e dle Ka ns hai Chai n s titch 1” 16 i nche s
Barte ch 1”
Gatheri ng stitch 20 i nche s
84
Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Use

Single Thread Chain stitches Using O n e Needle Th read and
100 Class Stitch es
On e Blind Lopper.
1o1 Class One Thread Ba sting, or light construction.
1o3 Class One Thread Blind stitch for Hem mi ng.

1o4 Class One Thread Blind stitch for Hem mi ng.
200 Class Stitch es : Single Thread H and Sewn Stitches Using O n e Needle Th read.
2o2 Class On e Thread Ba sting, Tacking or R epairs.
2o5 Class On e Thread Pick Stitch – Topstitching.

Two or more Th read Lo ck Stitch es U sing Needle Th read(s) and
300 Class Stitch es:
On e Bobbin H ook Thread.
3o1 Class Two Thread s Sea ming Multiple Plies.
Zigzag Stitch; a stretch
3o4 Class Two Thread s
lock stitch.
3o6 Class Two Thread s Blind Stitch.
Three Step Zigzag; a stretch

315 Class Two Thread s
lock stitch with more stret ch.
Multi-Thread Ch ain Stitch es U sing On e or Mo re Needle

400 Class Stitch es:
Threads and O ne o r More Lopp er Th reads.
Sea ming Multiple Plies with
4o1 Class Two Thread
moderate stretch.
Topstitching or S ea mi ng with
4o4 Class Two Thread s
Stretch.
Botto m Co ver Stitch; a

4o6 Class Three Th reads
(greater) stretch ch ain stitch.
Multi-Thread over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s)

500 Class Stitch es
and Lopp er T hread(s).
On e Needle O ver edge stitch
5o1 Class On e Thread for
Surging / "Blank et Stitch".
On e Needle O ver edge stitch

52 Class Two Thread s for
Surging.
85
Over edg e stitch for S urging

503 Two
Class Thread with
Cro sso ver on Edg e of Fabric.
Over edg e stitch for S erging

504 Three
and
Class Thread
Light Sea mi ng.
Mo ck S afety Stitch for

512 Four Sea ming
Class Thread with wide bite and Greater
Stretch for K nits.
Over edg e Stitch for S ea mi ng

514 Four with wide bite and Greater
Class Thread
Stretch for Knits.
True Saf ety Stitch for

515 Four Sea ming
Class Thread with Good Stretch for Wo ven‟s
and K nits.
True Saf ety Stitch for

516 Five Sea ming
Class Thread with Good Stretch for Wo ven‟s
and K nits.
86
600 Class Stitch es Multi-Thread Cover stitches.
Cover Stitch or S ea mi ng
602 Class Four Thread
Knits.
Cover Stitch or Butt -

605 Class Five Thread
Sea ms.
Wide Cover Stitch or Butt -

607 Class Six Thread
Sea ms.
Button Hole Stitch es Ch ain stitch a nd Lo ck stitch Button Hole Stitch es
Ch ain Stitch Buttonhole

101 On e Front View Used for light to
Class Threads
medium w eight Fab rics.
101 On e
Ba ck view.
Class Thread
Lock Stitch Button hole
301 Two Front View used for medium
weight goods or wh ere higher
Class Thread
quality is req uired.
301 Two
Ba ck view.
Class Thread
Ch ain stitch K eyh ole
101 On e
Buttonhole
Class Thread
With sq ua re ba r tack used for
suits and o uterwear.
87
Ch ain stitch K eyh ole
Buttonhole with fly bar
1o1 Class On e Thread
narrow ba r tack used for suits
and o uterw ea r.
Lock stitch Keyh ole

Buttonhole
used for suits and h ea vy
weight
3o1 Class Two Thread s goods wh ere higher q uality is
Req uired Variety of Bar tack
options available.
Button Sew Stitch es Ch ain stitch a nd Lo ck stitch Button S ew Stitches.
Two Hole Lo ck Stitch
Button sew
301 Two
Front View - Used for
Class Thread medium w eight goods or
where higher q uality is
req uired.
88
Two Hole Lo ck Stitch
301 Two
Class Thread Button sew
Ba ck View.
Four Hole Chain stitch

101 On e
Class Thread
Button sew F ront View.
"X" Stitch, Fo ur H ole
301 Two
Ch ain stitch Button sew -
Class Thread
Front View.
Sh ank b utton with
Wrapping used for suits

301 Two
Class Thread and h ea vy weight goods
where fabric is thick.
89
Sewing Layout/ Machine Layout:

I do not follow make thro ugh production system in garments ind ustry like tailor shop.
As prod uctivity is lost in this system. Now garments industry follows the production
system of Toyota. I follow operation breakd own method. At first I make the layout.
Running Sh ade: shad e va riation of fabric. In on e end of th e fabric the color is deep, and
in other end the color is light. So shading problem will occur if like shirt pock et is cut
fro m oth er end that is color will not match. So after cutting I provide numbe r to ea ch
part of the layer to avoid shading problem. And I pack them in small bundle. Like in
bundle A there is first 25 piece of pocket ….. Like this. So ea ch wo rker co mpletes ea ch
bundle a nd passes the bundle to second work er. This system is called Progressive
Bundle Sy stem. In the fa ctory I use this PBS system.
Sew ing L ine

A- 1 to 25 B- 26 to 50
C- 51 t o 75 D- 76 to 100 Front Back Assembling
I divide sewing line into three parts und er BP S: front part, back part & assembly part. I
produce front side of T -shirt in front part, back side of T -Shirt in back part, and send
both side of T-Shirt to Assembling part to join the two sides. Arranging operator and
ma chin e in a sewing section to co mplete sewing in a systematic way is cal led sewing
layout or ma chin e layout.
Every factory prod uce specified product or a rang e of prod ucts. Th e factory which
produce T-Shirt, trouser, polo shirt, tank top, vest etc… they normally don‟t produce
und er garment s like bra, panty etc. If a firm wa nts to produce both tha n they setup
sep arate units and run ea ch unit by sepa rate man agement. Wh atever the product enter
into the line, I divide the sewing production line & product into three part: Front Part,
Ba ck part, Assembly Part.
Sew ing L ine
Front Part Back Part Assembling
90
I sew fro nt part of T-Shirt in Front part of sewing line, I sew back part of T -Shirt in
back part of sewing line. Tha n sew front and ba ck together of T-shirt into assembly
line. Mat erials of Front part of T -shirt are those parts which are unique, not sa me as
second parts are attach ed in front part line. Materials of back part of T -shirt are those
parts which are uniq ue, not sa me as front parts of t-Shirt are attach ed in back part
line. And materials which ha ve in both front & back part of T -Shirt are attached in
assembly line. Like Neck Rib has both in front & back side of T -Shirt, so neck rib is
attach ed in assembly line. So in front part in sewing line only front pan el t -Shirt is
sealed. In back part in sewing line only back panel t -Shirt is sealed. Lab el is sealed
inside of n eck rib at assembly line. If label wo uld be attached with the back pan el than
label would be attached in back part of sewing line. Sleeve will be attach ed in assembly
line as sleeves ha ve both in front & back side of t -Shirt. Placket (wh ere button hole is
kept) & Button Stand or Loir plack et (where button is attached), pocket are attached in
Front line of sewing line.
For a simple T-Shirt the sewing start at assembly line, as there is nothing to sew in
front & back part of T-Shirt. First join sho ulder. We increase the weight of garments
step by step, so less weight materials or small or difficult parts are attach first. Larg e &
ea sy materials are attached later. So after joining sho ulders we will sew neck part by
folding with over lock ma chine. Then sew neck top stitch. Next will sew sleeve hem.
Then sew side sea m & then bottom hem. For a decorative T -Shirt in fro nt part of sewing
line we ha ve to sew decorative stitch es. In back part of sewing line we ha ve to join
different color back part of T-Shirt, and then sew top stitching, then decorative stitch.
And tra n sfer all the items to assembly part.
Neck Rib
Sewing machine and related Stitch number:

SNLS (300,)
DNLS(300),
Ba r Tuck (300),
Button Stitch (300) ,
Button hole (300),
Flat Lo ck (300),
91
Feed of the Arm (400) ,

Kan si Multi needle (400) ,
Eye/K ey hole (400) .
Utilization Fa ctor:
Utilization factor is an i mporta nt term in sewing section. It is also known as Needle

down Ti me. Utilization Factor is used or determi ned to measure the activities time of
needle of a sewing machine.
Utilization Fa ctor = Ho urly production x SPI x S.L x 100

Here,
RP M x 60 SPI = Stitch Per
Inch.
S.L = Stitch Length.
RP M = Rotation Per
Min ute.
In my training time I measured so me processes utilization factor like Neck Joint, Neck
Top Stitch of Style No- AMPS 01.
Utilization Fa ctor of Neck Joint:

80 x 12 x 7.1
U.F = x 100
3000 x 60
= 3.79%
Utilization factor of Neck Top Stitch:
80 x 12 x 13.5
U.F = x 100
3000 x 60
= 7.2%
Production study:
Production Study is anot her impo rtant work to maintain production flow in sewing line.
During my training period we did a production st udy.
Ti me Study
Ti me study is another impo rtant work to maintain production flow in sewing line.
During our training period we did a production st udy.
92
93
Finishing & Pack aging Department:

In finishing and packaging section prod ucts are treated with finishing para met ers and
after that they will be pack ed with different size poly and carton s against buyer‟s
choice. In Spider Group there are two finishing and packaging sections for two different
industries. O ne is for Botto m Gallery and anoth er is for Tro user world Ba nglade sh
Li mited.
Finishing process:
Finishing inp ut (style, color & size wise) Get up cha nge
↓ ↓
Initial quality check Folding
↓ ↓
Spot Removing Poly
↓ ↓
Ironing/P ressing Ba r code (buy er wise stick er)
↓ ↓
Insp ection Metal check
↓ ↓
Ha ng tag Ca rtooning/P ack aging
Final insp ection by buyer
Man Pow er:

Supervisor-7
Worker - 118 Packing man- 32 Finishing man - 86
QC – 5o
Spot L ifter - 6
94
Machine or Instruments used in Finishing Section:

Iron machine: 24
Sucking Ma chin e: 2
Needle detector Machin e: 1
Table Mea surement:

Finishing Table: 5 Iron table: 24 Extra iron table: 2
Length- 840 cm Length- 120 cm Length- 160 cm

Width- 130 cm Width- 80 cm Width- 120 cm
Height- 90 cm Height- 90 cm Height- 90 cm
Needle D etection Co ntrol Proced ures:
A needle detector must be kept in a perma nent location. The eq uip ment must be re -
calibrated by the eq uip ment supplier if the detector is mo ved to anoth er location. The
eq uip ment is preferably located in the finishing area such that the only access to the
packing section is via the n eedle detector. This en sures that all garments, incl uding
repaired or re-inspected garments are passed throug h the needle detector to the
packing section. This process also en sures rejected garments stay in the finishing area.
The operator must en sure that the machine is ch eck ed and is in proper working
condition before performing the process of garments/pa rts detection. It is critical that
the operator does not fiddle or try to adjust the settings on th e n eedle detector unless
he is a uthorized and train to do so. Any garments/pa rts ch eck ed and to be returned to
the sewing floor must be kept separately fro m the unchecked on es, in a clearly ma rked
trolley to prevent mix up. After a needle frag ment is found, the sa me garment/p arts o f
a garment must be put throug h the needle detector once more. If it is not rejected, then
they said item is return ed to the sewing floor. Ga rment s passing thro ugh n eedle
detector must tally with the shipped quantity by style. This is made possible with th e
installation of a co unter on the needle detector.
Ways of Packing:
Assort ed Color Assorted Size.
Solid Color Asso rted Size.
Assort ed Color Solid Size.
Solid Color Solid Size.
95
Finishing Layout:
In L ine
Thread Sucking
Table Quality
Check(Spot, Alter,
Measurement)
Ironing
Get Up Quality Check
Measurement Check (Length, Width)
Folding
Packing Carton Type:
There are two types of packing ca rton. They are-
Inn er Carton.
Master Carton.
96
Fabric Quality Department:

Four Point Systems for Knit Fabric Q uality Mea surement
In knit fabric insp ection system; mo st of th e co mp anies follow four point systems for
measuring the q uality of the knit fabric. There are vario us methods for measuring
quality of the knit fabric but a mong all of the method s four point systems is pref erable
to the insp ector of the q uality.
FABRI C INSPE CTI ON PR O CE DU RE:
W hen insp ection the fabric the position must be 45 - 30 degree between the eye to
fabric ch ecking. Check the lighting before start insp ection:
Over h ead CWF Lighting.

Mini mum 100 foot ca ndle.
At lea st 40 Watt x 4 light tubes.
Inspection using 4 p oint system
1st Inspection: Ch eck the fabric 10 % fro m ea ch lot‟s.
2nd Insp ection: Check the fabric 20 % fro m each lot‟s if the 1st inspection is rejecting.
3 r d Insp ection: Ch eck the act ual fabric width and length, than co mpa ring to the label
attach ed on the roll of fabric and put in to the repo rt ½”fro m fabric pin hole to hole
must be to determin e wastage (Cut table with). Fabric edge to ed ge must be mea sure to
match again o ur fabric req uest (PO Fab ric).
4 t h Insp ection: Ch eck the color lot by lot and co mpa ring with the F abric appro ved fro m
the merch andiser. Mak e the blank et or pillow case if ha ve the problem or special ca se
needed.
Ch eck th e printing of fabric:
Ch eck printing q uality.

Ch eck th e size of printing.
Ch eck th e color of printing.
Ch eck th e position design.
Attach ed the cat ch eye thread color to the def ect fabric ( only for Major Point ) for easy
find when fabric laying in the cutti ng table. Prep aring 2 yards ea ch lot to see the
sh ading color especially for the obvio us color ex a mple: Red, Navy, Kh aki …..etc). Ch eck
the sh ading color with following:
Ch eck b etween edg e to edge (Width fabrics).

Ch eck b etween edg es to center.
Ch eck b etween ends to Center and pa ss to the lab depart ment for testing.
97
Cut at least 3 yards if any shading color, and pass to the sup ervisor.
Four (4) – Point system for knitting faul t inspection:
During inspection, if th e inspector found any knitting faults then h e ma rks it in the
fabric and co unts it in the sheet. During in spection, following points are co nsidered.
Knitting fa ult Point s

Slab 1
Any hole 4
Needle or sink er line 4
Needle breakag e (up to 10) 4
Press off 4
Thick, thin, dirt, oil sport conta mi nation up to 3”
1
in length
Thick, thin, dirt, oil sport co nta mination up to 6”
2
in length
Thick, thin, dirt, oil sport co nta mination up to 9”
3
in length
Thick, thin, dirt, oil sport co nta mination abo ve 9”
4
in length
POINT CALCU LATIO N:
On ce the rolls are insp ected, the Points per 100 Sq ua re Yard s or Meter must be
calculated to determin e acceptability of the roll and / or ship ment. The formulas for the
calculation s are sho wn b elow:
For Ind ivid ual Roll:
Total Points for the roll x 3600
Points per 100 Sq ua re Y ards =
Insp ected Y ards x Cut table Fabric Width Cinch K
Total Points for the roll x 100,000
Points per 100 Sq ua re Meters =
Inspected Meters x Cut table Fabric Width CMMK
Remark: If the result less tha n 25 point fabric is acceptable and if over than 25 point
fabric is reject / una cceptable.
98
Relaxing Fabric:
All fabric must be ch eck and relax in one job Time start / end must be reco rded during
relaxing the fabric roll by roll Mini mum Relaxed is 24 hours and 48 hour ‟s for the
spa ndex. Do not stack too high / rolls relax ed fabric, due giving pressure for below
fabric been relax nat urally. Don‟t mix up the fabric with other‟s style or other‟s color
when relaxing th e fabric.
Fabric grading:
Grading of fabric q uality acco rding to pen alty points,
Pen alty points are ba sed on th e length of defects mea sured in in ch,
Fabric insp ection is only on one side of fabric and is based on fabric width of 64 -66
inch es (knitted fabric) four pen alty points per linear yarn up to 64/66 inch es in width,
The q uality sh all be expressed in the numb er of pen alty points per 100 yarn length.
Cutting Quality Department:

CUTTI NG I NSP ECTI O N:
Relaxing Fabric:
Fabric relaxing control, Make sure the batch timing mini mum 24 ho ur‟s and spa ndex
mi ni mum 48 hours before laying the fabric to the cutting table After the fabric laying in
the cutting table must be relaxing again mini mum 2 ho ur‟s Fixing the thread defect
fro m the fabric inspection. Make sure fabric defect ha ve th e repla cement before cutting.
Make sure fabric laying are aligned fro m the botto m to th e top, especially the fabric
with stripe it‟s must be aligned stripe Checking mark er, co mpared with the ha rd paper
pattern Checking th e mark er, pan el position must be even direction, before cutting.
Ch eck if the brush fabrics are laying at one direction. Control spreading high 7 inch
maxi mum 10 inch, depend on th e fabric cha ra cter. Mak e sure fabric laying are not
mix- up lot or mix-up color After cutting, perform visual and mea surement before
bundling to en sure for wrong size of cut pan el been mixed. Ch eck the cutting pan el
with the hard pattern, on Top / Middle / and Bottom. If any problem call the QC
sup ervisor to settle the problem, or call the Q M if need ed mak e taken Action Rep ort if
found 5 piece garment with the sa me problem. After cutting, perform visual and
measurement before bundling to en sure for wrong size of cut panel been mixed. Lot /
group by gro up must be insp ected by in house cutting QC with record to chop
approved on cutting list. Top to bott om ply, hard pattern to cut piece] & against paper
pattern Inspection record must state layer no, no of ply, cutting qty, sup ervisor sign QC
will do grouping before bundling. To be considering due too big a gro up ch ecking if the
brush fabrics are laying at one direction. Rando m insp ect cut pan el grouping before
proceeding to bundling.
99
100
Printing & Embroidery Quality Department:

Printing Insp ection:
Ch eck the design of printing, co mpa re with approval or picture. Match the color of
printing, co mpa re with appro val. Checking color va riation s and position of printing
co mp are with appro val. Check the size of printing, co mp are with the approval or spec
req uirement. Ch eck the position of printing, co mpa red with appro val or spec
req uirement. Ch eck the quality of printing, co mpa re with appro val. Ch ecking the
quality of paint, mak e sure the q uality is ok Send to laboratory for test the color
fastness, every lot‟s 1 set.
E mbroidery Insp ection:
Ch eck the design of embroidery, co mp are with appro val or pict ure. Match the color of
emb roidery, co mpare with appro val. Ch ecking color va riation s and position of
emb roidery co mpare with approval. Checking th e size of emb roidery, co mpare with the
approval or spec req uirement. Check the position of embroidery, co mpa re d with
approval or spec requirement. Checking the quality of embroidery, co mp are with
approval. Checking the q uality of yarn, mak e sure the q uality is ok.
Sewing Quality Department:

Quality section is the main section for sewing depa rt ment. After co mpletio n of a
garment according to its style it is necessa ry to check the q uality of that prod uct.
Beca use if quality is maintained prop erly order ship ment will then be successf ully
done.
Manpo wer:
Manpo wer list acco rding to line wise is given below -
Audit q uality: 2
Line 01: 5 Line 07: 6
Line 02: 7 Line 08: 6
Line 03: 4
Line 04: 6
Line 05: 5
Line 06: 6
101
In Line Quality:
In line q uality check is th e best q uality check in a garment prod uction line. It is
basically th e process to ch eck the quality of a prod uct during the prod uct s operation.
Usually superviso rs a re involved to check the q uality of a product in a line.
In-Line I nsp ection Pro ced ure:
In-line Insp ection proced ure Ch ecking the prep aration, make sure are co mpleted in
ha nd:
Pre – production sa mple + co mment fro m buyer. ( Must be Hanging on the top of table
end line Q C) Work sheet + Sketch and Tri m Card sewing accesso ries co mpleted (Main
label, Ca re label, Thread …etc) All details must be on the table end line Q C. Mock Up
must ha ng in to the operation ma chi n e (Exp: Pocket mo ck up – ha nging in machine
operator making the pocket) Plea se mak e sure th e Template must be correct and
already prepa re before start production. (If need ed) Co ntrolling the quality garment and
double check the accessories use and placeme nt. Control the properly wh en starting
pilot run and make sure the prod uction in ch arge und erstand h ow to handling. Before
start on bulk production mo nitor individual quality sewing operator progress. Ch eck
the SPI and mak e is correct following buyer req uest.
If any problem, call th e sewing superviso r and the garment technician to solving the
problem a s soo n as po ssible.
If found the problem QC must be attend in the place until th e operator i mpro ved
(Corrective Action).
After 10 minute fro m imp roved time, qc must be check again to en sure is really
impro ved.
If any problem found for th e ma chin e call the mecha nic to rectify the ma chin e and
rectify the garment.
If 10 – 15 min ute the ma chin e still not properly working give advice to the mech anic for
ch ang e the ma chine i mmediately. D ue to will be effect to the o utput q ua ntity.
Rand o m ch eck the size co mpo n ent and po sition is correct.
Rand o m ch eck the a ccesso ries using a nd position are correct.
Make th e repo rt mini mum 2 ti mes / shift and pa ss to the superviso r.
If any problem found with the prod uction in cha rge call the Q C sup ervisor to settle
immediately, or call Q M a nd F M if needed.
During preproduction meeting, QC S up ervisor h as to draw out garment/diagra m and

identify critical position with description for inline Q C & ch eckers easy understa nding.
102
[Diagra m with local language] Inline QC to emph asize control at every critical point and
every operation at lea st 6pc measure operations req uire specific spec inline QC to follow
up with every operation fro m sewing loading.
Audit operation, by operation [audit mo re on critical point] until end line / co mplete
garment.
Inline Q C, Q C sup ervisor, twice daily to ack nowledge a udit report To enforce
und erstanding a mo ng Q A and co mmunication link with supervisor line.
End Lin e Q uality:
After sewing there is process or arrang ement of quality ch eck of that product which is
know n as End Line Q uality ch eck. In this process overall quality will be ch eck ed after
sewing pro cess.
End- Line In spection Procedure:
Overall Inspection:
Ch eck th e critical mea surement 5 point; draw o ut mea surement on th e end line table.
Ch eck o verall finish ga rment work ma n ship.
Rand o m ch eck the sewing a ccessories a nd position, mak e are correct.
Totally en sure the dye lot, and not shading color in 1 garment.
Ch eck th e critical point (exp: Button Stitch, Zipper not S harp er…etc.
Ch eck th e printing or embroidery quality if needed.
After inspect separate the garment into the zone classification:

ZO NE A = G arment with the good q uality.
ZO NE B1 = Ga rment need repair in the prod uction line.
ZO NE B2 = Ga rment need repair d ue to measurement problem.
ZO NE C = Ga rment need clea ning in the cleaning roo m.
Zon e D = G arment with defect and can‟t repair (B Grad e).
END-LINE INSPECTION
Mea surement Check:
Rand o m check the mea surement fo r all point and if any problem on so me point need
100% ch eck for th e point problem. (Plea se refer to the Q C / QA Job S cope on Page 5
Quality Product Ma n ual).
103
Make sure no problem for the critical measurement. (5 critical point)
– TOP:
1. Body Length 2. Neck Width / Mini mum Stretched 3. Ch est Width 4, Armhole 5.
Sleeve Length.
– BOTT O M:
1. Waist Band Width 2. Front / Ba ck Rise 3. Hip 4. Insea m / O ut sea m 5, Bottom

opening
Remark:
End line Q C must be helping the In-Line Q c wh en the 1st start pilot runs or wh en
production starts. Classify the garment by zon e with record zone. Mak e th e rep ort 2
ti mes / shift and pass to the sup ervisor. If any problem found call the Q C superviso r to
settle i mmediately, or call Q M if need ed.
Ba rrier/ Pro cess Q uality:
There are so me arra ngements to check the quality of so me of the process in a line of a
garment prod uction. Usually critical processes are checked after its co mpletion and if
there found a ny wro ng then it will go to the op erato r for rewo rk.
Quality Audit:
Quality audit is usually done by AQL system checking pro cess where every type of
ch ecking is done of a garment. In Spider Group 1.5 AQL is used.
Audit Insp ection:
1. The ga rment h as been finish pa cking 10% (ca rton outp ut) fro m the total qty.
2. The ga rment h as been finish pa cking 30%.
Remark:
1. If the q ua ntity order over than 1000 carton, insp ection based on daily finish carton
output.
2. Every inspection takes 5 - 10% carton fro m th e q ua ntity finish packing.
3. The grouping carto n ha s been pass audit separate fro m the new carto n added and
those no need to again wh en taken n ext audit.
104
4. Check the shipping mark, and all the a ccesso ries pa cking incl uding position.
5. Check the folding as per buy er req uest or follow the pa cking appro val.
6. Check the a sso rt ment size / color a s per b uyer req uest.
7. Checking the Ironing q uality.
8. En sure the garments a re not dirty, oil stain, poor trimmi ng ….etc.
9. Check overall quality for washi ng.
1o. Check the all accessories and th e position.
11. Check overall garment work ma nship.
12. Check the mea surement all point mea surement mini mum 5 pc / size / color.
13. Insp ection using AQ L 1.0 .
Traffic Light System:

Traffic light system ch art is given below-
Traffic Light System
Each hour check 7 pcs

(Randomly)
One Discrepancy Found,

MARK- Yellow, Within 1
hour
More discrepancies
found, (Mark = Red),
(Within five minutes No discrepancies found,
reinsertion) (Mark = Green)
105
AQ L ST AND AR D: AQ L sta nda rd as followed: -
For appraising critical visual defects,
For O CR / Ticket Defects.

Or for appraising Major Visual Defect s (va ries by division).
For appraising Major Mea surement Defect Please refer to Page 26 of Q uality
Product Man ual.
2.5 For app raising Minor Visual Defects.
[Note: QC does not imply that our product ha s the right to set any def ective allowan ce].
Definition of Critical Defect:
A critical defect is defined as a nything potentially harmful to the prod uct user S harp
points / edg es Broken, needles loose co mpon ents, other foreign items Result of finding
a critical defect, the a udit a uto matically fails and th e entire lot to be insp ected.
Finishing & Packing Quality Department:

FINIS HI NG-P ACKI NG I NSP E CTIO N:
Verify needle control and safety proced ures, refer Needle detector calibration log daily
Metal conta mi nation detection log per PO W hile performi ng the visual audit any defects
as follows will be counted a s a major d efects in the visual audit: -
Ch eck th e fun ction ability for on snap b utton, button and zipper ~ 10 %
Inco rrect size strip.

Inco rrect flasher.
Inco rrect [wrong size] of logo label.
Inco rrect non- O CR [bar cod ed] price ticket.
Inco rrect items are coo rdinated the size a nd style.
Inco rrect quantity.
Ca rton labeling errors.
Inco rrect previous pack.
Assort ment.
Amo unts.
Pre pa ck stickers.
Ca rton no a s specified [size and co nstruction].
Crush ed or da maged carto ns.
Use of wire or metal strapp ing to strap carto ns.
106
107
Marketing and Merch andising Department:

The word " Mercha ndising" mea n s buying, producing and selling of any goods or
products or services for th e local or intern ational mark et. If we co mbin e this two
English term "Garment Mercha ndising" then the mea ning of "Ga rment Merch andising"
beco mes like the following definition-
Garments mercha ndising is a recipe with hug e contents. It mean s all the activities such
as getting export order of any garment of any particular desi gn for a specific quantity,
analysis the garments to produce, production of those q ua ntity of the garments with
specific co ncentration to stand ard quality level which is given by the Buy er or
Con sumer, production sch ed uling and finally exporting the garmen ts within fixed ti me
fra me, is know n as "Garments Mercha ndising". So, fro m th e above definition of
"Garment Mercha ndising" it can be a ssumed clea rly that all the activities which ha ve
already mentioned the above is not so easy to ha ndle. But all the above activities are
done by a smart and en ergetic perso n who is known as a "Ga rment Merch andiser". The
"The Garment Mercha ndiser" is one of the key people of R MG sector. In this co mp any
mercha ndising is divided into two plans. They are, Mark eting Merch andising unit and
Factory Merch andising unit. The order confirmation depends on the mark eting
depart ment. Merch andiser serves as middle ma n between buyer and man ufa cturer.
Man ufa cturer are very busy, they don‟t have ti me to talk to buy ers. So in between
mercha ndise r provide service. Man ufa cturer face problem during production like strike,
hartal, leave or sickn ess of labors, so production ha mper. So Merch andisers have to
ha ve very good co mmunication skills. As had to co mmunicate both with Factory and
Buyers. Buyers place order to Merch andiser and Mercha ndiser involve factory to
produce good s.
Merch andising mean s acq uiring order fro m buyer by applying different ma rketing tools
and to execute the order by sourcing different raw materials acco rding to stand ard of
buyer & by following stated production process and maintaining quality within the
specified lead ti me prod ucing the goods & making necessary arrang ement s to
surrend er the goods to buyer, by collecting pay ment & feedb ack closing the file – is
called the mercha ndi sing.
Objectives of Mercha ndising:
Increa se sales volume.

Increa se reven ue.
Achieve or increase profits.
Increa se o r maintain mark et sha re.
Eli minate co mp etition.
Achieve ad va ntages of mass prod uction.
Factors influen cing price-d etermi nation.
Production and distribution costs.
Sub stitute good s available.
108
Oregano gra m of merch andising depa rt ment:
Buying and merchandising Head of merchandising

director several product areas)
Merchandiser (planner) Product Area -2

Product area-1
(Trader)
Distribution
Assistant Merchandiser manager
merchandiser (planner)
Senior
Distributor
Assistant
Merchandising assistant merchandiser
Distributor
Merchandising
assistant
Flow Cha rt:
Ord er co nfirmation E mbroidery/P rinti

ng
Yarn/Accessories Sewing
procurement
Knitting Ch ecking
Dyeing Ironing
Co mp acting Packing
Cutting Final insp ection
109
Gen eral procedure of m ercha ndising and production syste m in garment s:
Order confirmatio n & preparing TN A calendar: At first the mercha ndiser takes a
sa mple or sket ch & then fro m that sketch & mea surement sheet send to sa mple roo m
depart ment to develop the sa mple. Afterw ard the ready sa mple send it to th e buyer for
at first confirm the order. In the mea n ti me the mercha ndiser ha ve to mak e a ti me &
action calendar for monitoring the whole ord er.
Fit sample submission: For the coo rdination of Sa mple roo m & product develop ment
depart ment the mercha ndiser ha ve to sub mit a Fit sa mple to the buy er. Fit sa mple is
send it to buyer to check if the fitting of th e garment is ok or n ot only on the dress form
but also on model in motion, necessary modification sho uld be don e to the pattern &
then sa mple must be prepa red to achieve quality & Fit. So satisfy target gro up.
Un usually the Fit sa mple is made in using altern ative fabric & acc esso ries & it is made
in mol which ever co mes at the middle of the export order sizes. For exa mple: if the
export order sizes a re S, M & L, the Fit sa mple will be in M size.
Fit sample approval: After sub mission of the Fit sa mple merch andiser have to take
approval fro m the buy er abo ut the fit sa mple that is also called Fit co mment.
Lab-dip submission: Buyer gives the color plate fro m that color plate merch andiser
ha ve to sub mit a color plate which will match with the color plate given by the buyer.
That is called lab-dip sub mission.
Lab-dip approval: After sub mi ssion of the Lab -dip merch andiser have to take appro val
of lab-dip fro m the b uyer.
Receiving the Master L/C: After appro vals of the style th e buyer co mes to negotiate
the order price or cost. After the n egotiation th e mercha ndiser ha ve to collect the
ma ster L/C fro m th e buyer to execute th e order.
Yarn/Fabric/Trim booking place me nt: After getting th e mast er L/C, with in 48 hrs.
Merch andiser h as to give booking of Yarn /Fab ric/T ri m fro m th e so urce of supp lier.
L/C opening for Yarn/Fabric/Trim bookings: Tha n merch andiser have to open the
B/B L/C for Yarn /Fab ric/T ri ms for booking confirmation & give the order as per
con sumption.
PP sample submission: Pre-prod uction sa mple have to sub mit to buyer before go for
the Bulk production. That mean s with original fabric & accessories using the PP
sa mple is made. This sa mple represents the fabric & accesso ries used in bulk
production. PP sa mple sho uld includ e all the colors of the style.
110
PP sample approval: The buy er checks the PP sa mples & after the buy er gives
approval on PP sa mples then mercha ndiser ex ecute run for the bulk prod uction of the
order. This approval not only for size, fit & work ma nship but q ualit y of texture, color,
accesso ries a s buy er req uired.
Trims submission: Tri ms/Accessories sub mitted to buyer as per requirement for
approvals.
Trims approval: Tha n merch andiser h ave to take app roval of tri ms fro m the b uyer.
Yarn/Fabric/Trims in-house date: Than the merch andiser give a dead -line to the
suppliers to in-ho use all the yarn /fabric/tri ms to the factory as before the bulk
production starts.
Inventory of received Yarn/Fabric/Trims: Merch andiser ha ve to send a n inventory

report to the buyer that all t he received yarn /fabric/tri ms are ok & ready to use for
production.
Bulk Fabric/Test reports submission: Mercha ndiser has to make a test repo rt of the
bulk fabric & sub mitted to buyer before start bulk production.
Bulk Fabric/Test reports approval: Mercha ndiser has to get appro val fro m the buyer
about the b ulk fabric test rep orts to go for the bulk prod uction.
Pre-Production Meeting/Trial Run/Pilot Run: In this meeting everybody co ncerned

with th e style sits together to make sure that everybody is on the sa me page and
und erstand s the prod uct. H en ce, this meeting has the merch andiser, production in -
ch arge, cutting, finishing, fabric in-ch arge, lin e supervisor, pattern ma ster, sa mple
ma ster etc. All tentative problems are discussed and solution s so ught to exe cute the
order smoothly. On ce pre-production meeting is done the factory does PILOT RU N.
Factory cuts 100 – 200 garments based on the ord er quantity. Th e pilot run is done on
the assembly line and is aimed at ensuring that th e operators of the assemble lin e
und erstand the req uired quality levels. This is very essential since all sa mples prior to
the pilot run (fit sa mples, PP & size set) are mad e in th e sa mpling unit. On ce PILOT
RU N is appro ved th e factory goes into bulk prod uction. In line and interi m insp ections
are preformed during the production process to ensure that the final prod uct quality
meets the required quality level. In the other ha nd PP meeting can be done between the
production ma nager, plan n er, mercha ndiser & buy er. PP meeting is basically f or made
confirm or negotiation between buyer & the merch andiser & production ma nag er that
assuring that the style of this respective volume will be prod uce in this dead line. If
so metime th e style is very difficult or critical tha n the production beco me sl owly in that
ca se if buyer n eed to hurry abo ut the prod uction tha n there is so me modification
co mes up. For exa mple there may be so me modification on the style, there may so me
modification on the ship ment date, and there may so me modification on the production
line balan cing. All the terms & condition s are co n sidered during the pp - meeting.
111
But pp- meeting is basically a meeting is for making a solution about the problems on
the prod uction. Finally it is a meeting of negotiation with the buyer wh ere the buye r
gives the decision or his req uirements of ship ment with solving the problem of the
garment prod uction ship ment.
Bulk Production: After the pp-meeting when the mercha ndiser gives the green signal
than the prod uction ma nag er go for bulk prod uction or actua l q ua ntity for producing
goods.
Test of Production Sa mple Submission: Wh en the prod uction started o n the factory
than the mercha ndiser collect the prod uction sa mple fro m the bulk prod uction line &
test the production sa mple that every req uirement of the bu yer is being fulfilled or not
& assure that the garment is prod ucing on the high est ma rk or not. Tha n the checked
sa mple merch andiser ha s sub mitted to th e buyer for production appro val & waiting for
the co mments.
Top Sample Approval: Buy ers gives his/her co mments or approval on the Test of
Production sa mple.
Final Inspection: When the buyer co mes for the final inspection than the
mercha ndiser ha ve to stay with the buyer to assuring & con vincing the buyer that the
quality of the garments are as per th e req ui rements of the buyer & it is a highest
quality garment.
Ex-Factory Date: Ex-Fa ctory date mea ns wh en bulk prod uction loaded on the
contain er cargo & goes for shipping or on the w ay to port that is Ex -F actory date.
Cutoff date: Cutoff date mea ns wh en the shi p starts to sail fro m the port that is called
cutoff date.
Receipt of B ill of Lading / AWB: For the individual order the mercha ndiser than
collect or receipt of Bill of Lading fro m the buyer bank to the Ben eficiaries bank. That is
the last job of the merch andiser of that particular ord er.
112
P.O. sent by buyer: Full meaning of P.O is purch ase order. It is sent by buyer wh en
order is confirmed. P.O contains order no, date, supplier description, buyer na me &
address, factory na me & address, product description, packing description, terms &
condition s, va rious instr uctions & en closed impo rtant papers. After receiving P.O, sales
conta ct is written by factory.
Master L/C sent by buyer: It is a document which ensures the pay ment to the vendor
on behalf of consumer for the con sign ment going to be shipped to the custo mer. On the
other hand, T/T mea n s Telegrap hic Tra nsfer. The orders and pay ments of such big
deals are mad e thro ug h bank s of correspo nding countries. Each banks keep s the
resp on sibility of the guarantee of th e buyer and ma n ufact urers purch ase and deliv ery.
Letter of credit (L/C) is mad e to ensure th e total cost of the deal.
113
There are different types of L/C. The L/C that is given fro m buy er to the supplier is
know n as master L/C. This ma ster L/C holds total cost of the deal. All other costs that
is necessa ry for co mpletion of th e prod uct such as impo rting raw materials or any other
materials for that particula r deal is made under that mast er L/C which is know n as
back to back L/C and is no rmally given fro m the supplier to th e sub - supplier. There is
sa mple of L/C is given below:
114
The wo rk of merch andising:
Studying potential target custo mer.

So urcing information abo ut the custo mer a nd his profile.
So urcing foreign buyers.
Negotiating ord ers, co st calculation, pricing, securing orders thro ug h ma ster LC.
So uring information abo ut prod uct. Its catego ries, styles, specification s,
assort ments, size details, etc.
Study of fashion trend & fashion foreca st in asso ciation with fashion designer.
So urcing fabrics, tri ms, & accesso ries. Placing order for the above materials &
making reg ular follow up.
Getting sa mples mad e, making co sting & pricing of the sa me.
Rectifying sa mples if necessa ry.
Co mpleting the w hole sa mpling pro ced ure a s per req uirement.
Getting buyer‟s approval of th e sa mple.
Esti mating lead time.
Production & ship ment plan ning.
Follow up of custo mer instruction in resp ect of packing & pack aging.
Arra nging product delivery on ti me. Follow up with the custo mer resp ect of
ship ment and pay ment against expo rt order.
Quick resp on se follow- up in resp ect of any of the b uyer‟s query.
Product packaging.
Signage.
Location in the store.
Sh ape, size, color, and other physical cha ra cteristics of the display.
Advertising (in-store a nd other mea ns).
Disco unts, prizes, or other pro motional offers.
Mo nitoring production & prod uct q uality.
Making reg ular relation with custo mer.
Qualification of a good Merchandiser:

Good co mma nd in English and adeq uate knowledg e of tech nical terms for accurate and
efficient co mmunication. Good kno wledge of Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Dying, Printing,
Finishing, Dyes, Color fastn ess, Ga rments prod uction, etc. Clear con ception of the
usual potential quality problems in the garments ma n ufact uring. Good knowledg e of
the usual raw materi als insp ection system & garment s insp ection systems K nowledge
of the quota system used in ea ch of the producing countries duty rates, custo ms
reg ulation, shipping and ba nking documentation etc.
115
Effective use of Costing in Merchandising:

Cost is the primary issue for most sourcing executive. Cost is th e funda mental
und erstanding to realize the profit or loss. Co st is the total a mo unt of dollar invested in
a production. Profit or loss of an organization is totally depend s on co sting. In a cost
sh eet have total ma n ufact uring costs of prod ucing an appa rel product. In the co st
sh eet ha s the final calculation in determi ning the total cost for producing the garments.
Costing factor must be con siderate in eval uating inventory such as:
The original cost of goods. The co st of maintaining inventory including interest on

borrow ed mo n ey restricted ca sh flow. The cost value is added to the original materials
of standard materials so; costing is a very i mpo rtant for merch andising job. Mo reo ver,
profit and loss of a co mp any dep end s on costing.
Consumption cal culation for knit garment:

Formula,
(Back length + sleeve length) × ½ chest × 2 × G S M ×12
10000000
= {(70 +5) + (25 +5)} × 60 × 2 ×145 ×12 {B.L + S.L × chest × GSM ×12}
10000000
= 2.28 kg + 7%
= 2.28 kg +0.159
= 2.439 kg [neck a nd sleeve are mad e rib so add 0.10]

All ti me collar in rib = (350 -400)
Cost calculation:
Cost is divided in to:-
Pre- co st------- mercha ndiser.
Final costing -------- mercha ndiser + impo rt section.
Garment: - $ 5.00 = co st.
Garment co sting: - $ 5.00 + profit = costing.
116
Marketing Merchandi sing & Factory Merchandising:

Buyer Negotiation Buyer Negotiation
Initial Cost ing (N ot Fixed). Fabric and accessories

receiving from st ore
Receiving Inquiry Sheet
from Buyer following up
Fabric goes to cutting
section
After cutting
Inquiry in timegoes
Sheet bodytoparts goes t o sew ing
CAD(Garment s
consumption and costing After cutting in time
body part s goes to
Inquiry Sheet received by IE sew ing
department (Determining
SMV , CPM for costing)
After following up t he
finishing and Packing
Combining Costing with Garments are ready
overhead cost wit h profit for shipment
and approving cost
Following up the
Pattern making for production in Sewing
sa mple with real accessories in
time for shipment
Sample goes t o L AB for

approval available or
similar Fabric or as
buyer requirement)
Sa mple appro ved and order confirm And then goes to mercha ndising depart ment for
bulk production)
117
Pro motion of mercha ndising with ma rketing:
Stages of a life cycle – Und erstanding a product life cycle is of major impo rtan ce, as it
tells you, wh en to mark et / merch andise effectively.
The stag es a re discussed below,
INTRODUCTION STAGE – Wh en a product or service is new. Mercha ndise

it hea vily to get the prod uct or service to grow.
GROWTH STAGE - If a new product is successf ul it will beco me accepted
and popula r with your custo mers, and enter the gro wth pha se, these prod ucts
sho uld be mercha ndised regula rly to maintain custo mer awa reness and
contin ue growt h to the n ext stage – maturity.
MATURITY STAGE - On ce dema nd for a product ha s leveled out at its
peak, it ha s entered th e mature phase. Custo mers w ill know the prod uct well
eno ug h to ask for it by na me now, so you need only mercha ndise the product
occasion ally in order to maintain dema nd. Keeping your products at this pha se
is i mporta nt, try to prevent sales ero sion by mo nitoring con stantly. Your
a mbition h as to be to get and keep all your products at this stage
DECLINE STAGE - On ce demand for a prod uct starts to decline, you must
mercha ndise your products to establish wh ether the custo mer doesn‟t want your
product or wh eth er you ha ve decreased your sales by not mercha ndising it
eno ug h. After mercha ndising you will know the an sw er. If your custo mer no
longer req uires th e prod uct as reg ularly as before, pro mote it to clea r stocks. If
sales a re restored thro ugh mercha ndising, then you sho uld treat the p rod uct as
if it ha s ret urned to the growth stag e.
Respect & Rapport - in merch andising the prod uct is king, so if you saw
Budweiser b unting draped over a radiator, or sa w sho es merch andised above hats in a
clothes shop, it wouldn‟t be showing a resp ect for, or a rappo rt with, the product itself.
This co uld be reflected in your sales.
Seasonal Merchandising - Use notice boards, poster fra mes and ban ners to
pro mote your festive fun using sea so nal deco rations, posters and color to catch your
custo mer‟s eye.
118
119
Findings
On the basis of analysis and practical experience of internship period the following
findings are observed:
Trouser World Bangladesh Limited has not own pattern designer. For this reason they
depend on the buying house. It is time consuming matter.
Production performance is not always very good. Sometimes they produce low
production. Sometimes they delay to transfer the L/C to the buyer. Sometimes it takes
more time. Sewing quality is not very good. Training and developme nt program is
needed here. Packing quality is not high qualified in all time. Sometimes it‟s may
create problem buyers, satisfaction. HRM division is weak in this garments company.
Sometimes merchandisers fail to negotiate. It is create problem sometimes.
Trouser World Bangladesh Ltd. has outstanding reputation in the global market for
excellence. It is a composite factory where they have all the sectors of woven and knit
item like spinning, knitting, dyeing, printing, embroidery, accessories, and garments
production. So, this is huge in case of production and maintenance both. However,
this huge organization is not facing profit due to many of reasons what I have
observed from the internship period-
– Supply chain or procurement department is not very strong in this company

which causes that the merchandisers procure all the raw materials of garments
that’s why they feel more pressure to complete shipment and some time also
over the shipment date then company should pay the extra money for air
shipment. So when supply chain department procure all the raw materials then
merchandiser can easily shipment the goods within lead time.
– Planning department of operation should be strong and the time management
should be followed. Here, productivity is low due to less command of the
authority towards the production. It should be increased for the higher
productivity.
– Quality assurance system should be modernized because quality is the top
priority of all international buyers.
– Working environment should be increased.
– Pay scale is very poor which is needed to be increased because company will
lose potential employees due to their policy.
Distribution of power should be well managed and transparency among the workers
and the management should be followed.
In this report I examined the relationship between price, advertising and promotion,
salary and merchandising performance of the Trouser World Bangladesh Limited.
Using regression models, we found a statistically significant relation between price,
advertising and promotion, salary with merchandising performance which was
consistent with expectations.
120
Recommendation
Generally I have given the concentration on merchandising activities of Trouser World

Bangladesh Limited. I would like to recommend the following areas that should be
improved immediately to achieve the desired goals-
Instead of short-term relationship, Merchandisers need to develop long term

relationship with the key parties – buyers, buying houses and suppliers etc.
As a newcomer industry, Trouser World Bangladesh Limited should always keep in
mind that, customer retention is more important than customer attraction. If they can
follow this concept then they will gain more.
Director should clearly share his mission with manager and all the staffs. Because a
clear mission statement guides the employee to work independently and to achieve the
organizational objectives,
As the industry is in a struggling position; it should frequently measure the annual
growth rate through the growth share matrix, BCG (Boston Consulting Group
approach) whether business is operating effectively or not.
Consultancy with garments expertise regarding the development strategies will be

helpful to get more output.
Trouser World Bangladesh Limited should identify their position based on the
product life cycle and the position of competitors so that they take corrective action to
compete & stay in the business.
Trouser World Bangladesh Limited can establish their own design section and from
there they can create unique and innovative products design for marketing. And in
this purpose they can contract with professional fashion designer in Bangladesh and
abroad to get the maximum results.
The industry can use internet as an efficient promotional tools for buyer awareness
about their business. In this purpose they can develop their own website with detail
information about their business.
It should allow its employees to participate in decision making process so that it will
help to get more productivity & commitment to work.
The industry should establish a good salary structure & ensure the due time salary
& wages.
121
Con clusion
The RMG sector is expected to grow despite the global financial crisis of 2009. As
China is finding it challenging to make textile and foot wear items at cheap price, due
to rising labor costs, many foreign investors, are coming to Bangladesh to take
advantage of the low labor cost which is really a good sign for Trouser World
Bangladesh Limited. Management of merchandising is a big job and is a complex one.
The result of the study shows that there are a lot of steps that Trouser World
Bangladesh Limited should undertake to improve their merchandising management in
order to be successful. The study revealed that Merchandisers are the most valuable
human resources for the progress of the organization. For the development of these
valuable resources there are many factors involved. So to increase the productivity of
an organization effectively, e fficient Merchandising management is necessary.
I ha ve co mpleted my training period within 120 days in Spider Gro up successf ully by
the grace of Al mighty Allah. This training sends me to the exp ected destiny of my
professional life in R MG sector. After co mpleting 120 days training period, I ha ve
know n that Spider Gro up is one of the large textile gro ups with its h uge garment
production. During my training I got all kind of help fro m every depart ment and give
thank s to all of those people who really helped me during my work. Thoug h it is very
tough to get everything knowledge fro m all sectors in this factory but I tried myself to
get all knowledg e with my level best. I hope my repo rt has already show s the overall
training period overview. I a m eno ug h fortunat e that I got an opport unity of ha ving a
training in this factory. During the training period I got co -operation and asso ciation
fro m the authority full & found all ma n, machines & materials on appreciable working
condition. All stuffs & officers were very sincere & devot ed with their duties to achieve
their goal. In conclusion I can say that this internship report is really essential for
every student of business studies to get idea about textile industry. By completing this
report I have got overall idea of RMG sector and these may be helpful to know about
the technical and management knowledge of garments industry also these sector
related organizations. This is a huge sector and yet to discover the whole.
I want to thank my department Head for giving me great opportunity of learning. This
Internship program will help me in the further challenges of life. I try my best to make
this project enriched with lots of apparel related documents. Spider group is really a
good experience for me because every person of there so much helpful and give me the
proper methods of practical learning. So, at last, there is a hope of eradicating all the
obstacles and become the leader of garment industries in near future.
122

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INTERNSHIP REPORT

Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector.

Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector.

Submission Date: July 12, 2014

July 12, 2014

Professor Dr. Ahmed Fakhrul Alam

Department of Business Administration

Faculty of Business & Economics

Daffodil International University

Subject: Internship report on Merchandising Activities in RMG Sector.

Faculty of Business & Economics,

Daffodil International University.

Professor Dr. Ahmed Fakhrul Alam

Department of Business Administration,

Faculty of Business & Economics,

Daffodil International University.

ACCEPTANCE OF THE REPORT

Md.Mohiuddin, student of Marketing program in Daffodil International Univ5ersity,

This is a great chance for me to do my internship in trouser world Bangladesh. This is

In the whole procedure of exporting garments to the retailer of abroad and to

Chapter Title Page

Merchandising is an important work in garments sector. So that merchandiser job is

To know detail about RMG sector.

Primary Data: I have got the information by what I am seeing in practical in My

General information abo ut factory :

Co mp any Na me : Tro user World Ba ngladesh Ltd.

Factory Sp ace : 45ooo sft.

Numb er of Wo rker : 65o Person

Mission & Vision

OE KOT EX Certificate, Certificate of co mplian ce (W ARP) ISO Certificate

Location of Spider Gro up:

Sister Co n cern s of North ern Spider G ro up:

Other group s and co mp anies under Spider

Bottoms Gallery Ltd.

Major buy ers with their Logo:

Tom And Tailor

Ba sic T-Shirt Kids Item

All Types of Knitwea r's.

Company wise organ gram:

Board of Direction Chairman

Manager (Marketing & Procurement)

Policy farming &

(Accounts & Finance) Manager (R& D)

QC & Maintenance Process Research

SWOT Analysis Of Trouser World Bangladesh:

Own Land: Factories of Trouser World Bangladesh Limited are established in

Post purchase behavior: After shipment of the products, employees do

Absence of Spinning Plant: Trouser World Bangladesh Limited doesn‟t

The Process of Textiles:

Like Cotton is a fiber.

 Advantag es of Ba ngladeshi Knitwear S ector:

Automatic/ Hand Flat Double

Weft & warp knit

Weft & warp knit:

Weft Knitting Weft knitted Fabrics

Weft Knitting Machines:

Single Jersey Machine: Single Jersey Machine mean s it is capable to stitch

A Wal e is vertical column of intermesh ed needle loops produced by the sa me needle

 So me I mpo rtant Termi nology: