You Can Build A Bedside Table 120112
You Can Build A Bedside Table 120112
You Can Build A Bedside Table 120112
Bedside Table
If you like making panels, you’ll love this project.
M
y current home is a modest one. design elements found in our existing
But it is a big improvement over furniture. The resulting table is shown on
our small starter home. As you this page. I have always liked the design and
would expect, when we moved up to a larger it also provides much needed storage space.
home, we found ourselves in need of more
furniture. My wife and I were still newly Building the table
weds, so we got by as best as we could. This is a good learning project for panel
construction: creating stub tenon joints and
Our original bedside table was of the round inserting either a flat panel or a raised one.
particle board variety; the kind with three Panels are used for the sides, the doors, and
splayed legs screwed into the table top. Its the bottom, and then web frames are used as
customary to finish off this type of furniture upper and lower drawer runners. All of the
by throwing a table cloth over it. It is only stub tenons and their corresponding slots are
natural to do so, since the parts underneath the same size which enables you to set up a
are really way to ugly to be shown. Even with production process for creating them.
a nice table cloth, I always disliked that
table—it was hardly something an aspiring I made this table out of knotty pine which
woodworker would want in his home. matched our existing furniture. If you decide
to use pine for your project, be warned that
After I set up my work shop, it was my goal to pine today is different than what was readily
replace that table as fast as possible. For our available about 20 years ago when this table
previous home, we had already purchased a was built. Home center pine is often super
four poster bed, a nice chest of drawers and a soft which means it dents easily and is prone
large chest on chest—all made of pine. to serious blotching when colored with stain.
If you do opt for home center pine, be very
By the time we got around to replacing our selective when choosing boards. I cover how
first bedside table, the manufacturer had best to stain such lumber later in this plan.
Dimensions
Ⓐ
Ⓑ
The tongue is 1/4”
thick and 3/8”
Ⓑ Ⓐ long.
Middle Web Frame 4b
Ⓕ Lower Shelf
Ⓓ
ch
Bran
4a Jeff
012
©2
Using the cut list, fabricate the components needed for the upper and middle web frames.
The tongue
Illustration 4b shows a close-up of the tenons and their corresponding slots. For each web frame
and slot are
or panel, the tenons and their mating slots are all 1/4” x 3/8”. The lower shelf panel, part F, gets a
the same as
tongue on all four edges as shown in 4c. Pre-finish part F and glue the whole panel together, 4c shown in 4b.
allowing part F to float—no glue.
5 19/32”
Ⓚ
5 13/32”
Ⓗ 1 1/2”
Ⓖ
5 1/2”
Ⓙ
3/4”
1”
5a 5b
Again, using the dimensions shown in the cut list, begin forming the components needed to create the sides. Using a panel raising bit in a router table, create the
panel. Prior to glue-up, drill 1/4” holes 3/8” deep for both stiles, parts G and H as shown in 5b. Pre-finish the raised panel, part K. Cut the required 1/4” deep dados
(highlighted by red arrows) so that a snug fit with the web frames and lower shelf is achieved. Cut a 3/8” deep by 7/8” wide rabbet along the inside rear edge of part H.
Lastly, apply glue to the tenons and glue the side components together (no glue for the raised panel—it should float).
1 1/4”
Ⓑ
1 1/4”
Ⓒ 6b
Ⓛ Ⓛ
6a
The bedside table top will be attached to the upper web frame with four wood screws (we’ll do this
later in the project). The wood screws will be driven into the top from the underside of the upper web frame
near each corner (note the red arrows in 6a). In an effort to make this as easy as possible, go ahead and pre- Ⓛ
drill pilot holes for these screws. See illustration 6b.
Glue the web frames and lower shelf into the sides. We want the raised panels, parts K, to float, so no glue
where the middle web frame meets the panel. Once the glue has dried, turn the case over and attach the base
cleats, parts L with glue and brads as shown in 6c. The bracket foot assembly will attach to the case with screws 6c - view from underneath.
driven into these cleats.
1 1/2”
3/8” dowel.
Ⓟ
Ⓠ
3/4”
Ⓞ
6 3/16”
7b
16 7/16”
Ⓜ
7a 3/8”dowel 7c
© 2012 Jeff Branch
Form the rails and stiles for the face frame using the cut list. With a router outfitted with a beading bit, form beads on the parts N, O and P as shown (see 7b). Drill
holes for the dowels using a doweling jig. Glue the face frame together and when dry, simply glue it to the table case. The lower rail, part N fits flush with the surface of the
lower shelf. Form separate beads for the stiles, parts Q and R, miter their corners and attach with glue. Lastly route a chamfer on parts M as shown.
© 2012
Jeff Bra
Pre-drill holes in the rails as shown (note red
1 3/8”
Ⓢ nch
Ⓣ
arrows). Form the panel by gluing the rails and
1 7/8” stiles together allowing the panel to float.
ⒶⒸ
The dadoes for the sides
and the bottom 1/2” deep.
© 2012 Jeff Branch
ⒶⒾ
ⒶⒼ
ⒶⒼ
ⒶⒽ
© 2012 Jeff
Branch
The last step related to the drawer is to provide a proper home for it. This is done by adding three slender boards to the middle web frame and one to the upper web
frame. We begin by adding parts AG aligning the inner face flush with the beads that line the left and right drawer openings. Position these parts and lock them in place with
glue and brads. Then fill in with part AH across the back, attaching it the same way. Next add the drawer kicker, part AI, by centering it on the upper web frame as shown
and attach it with glue and brads.
1/4” dowels
ⒶⓀ
ⒶⓀ Elongate holes
for the center 8 1/8”
and rear peg.
ⒶⒿ
anch
© 2012 Jeff Br
Tenon 1”
wide.
8”
Wood screw
1 1/4”
The end is in sight. Begin by cutting the top, part AJ to size. Form 1/4” thick by one inch deep tenons on each end of the table. Cut the bread board ends, parts AK to
size and cut a slot to mate with the tenon. Temporarily clamp the bread board ends in place, and mark and drill 1/4” holes to receive the pegs. Remove the bread board ends
and elongate the center and rear holes. Spread glue to the top and bottom of the first six inches of the tenon and slide the bread board end in place. Clamp and allow to dry.
Glue the dowels in place and trim flush. Attach the top to the case with four wood screws using the pilot holes shown in illustration 6b.
14b
ⒶⓃ
14c
ⒶⓁ
ⒶⓁ
ⒶⓂ ⒶⓃ
© 2012 Jeff Branch
14a
Begin final assembly by forming the back slats. The outer back slats are slightly smaller
than the inner slats. Cut them to size and nail them to the upper web frame and the lower shelf. Cut
quarter round moldings, parts AN and AO and attach with brads (parts AO are shown on page 15). 14d ⒶⓃ
Lastly, add a decorative edge to the table top with a 1/2” round over router bit.
Since the bedside table was made of pine and pine has
an off-white color in its natural state, I needed to stain
it. The problem with staining pine is that it often will
blotch or have an uneven color which isn’t good.
6 1/8”
1 1/32” 2 3/8” 1”
4 3/4”
Each square = 1”
3 3/4”
Creating the bracket feet is a fun part of this project. These feet instantly add a historic look to the bedside table. Get started by cutting the components to size.
Add the needed dadoes, the 45° corners and the biscuit slots. Lay out the pattern shown above on the parts for the bracket feet and trace an outline onto the stock. Using a
band saw, cut out the profile. File and sand the saw marks left by band saw operation.
© 2012 by Jeff Branch. Project design and construction; plan illustration, page layout and text by Jeff Branch. See additional project plans at Sawtooth Ideas.com.