Words and pictures by Steve Killick

THE TIRAS BERGE

CONSERVANCY
Steve Killick explored an area of vast, dramatic landscapes where natural beauty
and thought-provoking echoes of the past combined to whet his appetite for more.

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A
fter five days of foot slogging We arrived at the farmhouse at dusk held spiritual significance for the San
down the Fish River Canyon, and were escorted down to the campsite who once roamed these parts, and who
an icy Tafel lager had never set in a grove of ancient sweeping would meet periodically at special
tasted this good, nor had my body kameeldoring trees, and presented with sites for healing rituals and gatherings
ever relished anything quite as much a bunch of firewood. of the different family groups. Camped
as this prolonged soak in the Ai-Ais “Look out for the kudu bulls at the in amongst the red boulders at the foot
springs. Aaaah! water trough tomorrow morning!” said of the giant granite dome glowing in
Beyond this moment we didnʼt have Jőrn as he headed off, leaving us all the evening light, one could feel the
a plan. Well, nothing beyond venturing alone to our campfire and the silvered same magic that has drawn people
north to Sossusvlei with ten days in hand full moon landscape. Well, there were no here for thousands of years. Nowadays
to explore the area in between. We said kudu in the morning, but we decided to Koimasis is a cattle and ostrich farm,
goodbye to our hiking companions, explore the farm a little further. A low- as well as a well-established guest
packed up the Hilux and headed to range track up to the top of the mountain farm. Accommodation is in self-
Keetmanshoop to provision for the next afforded a spectacular view back over catering chalets or campsites cleverly
leg of the trip. the Tirasberg and a sighting of six very built into the boulder outcrops, so
“Welcome to the Tiras Berge shy kudu cows. Jőrn had explained to us that each site is afforded remarkable
Conservancy” said the pamphlet that the game was only now moving back privacy from which to enjoy the
in the window of the gas station at into the area after many years of hunting surroundings. We spent a lovely day
Helmeringhausen, “The place to spend had eliminated most of it, including walking on the mountain behind the
a few relaxing days away from every- the predators. Theyʼre farming karakul campsite; a bizarre moonscape of
where”. I jotted the map down on the sheep for their pelts at present, as this is boulders, kokerbome and nabome.
pamphlet, and so we headed west in more eco-friendly than traditional sheep From Koimasis itʼs a 20 km drive
search of the Tirasberg. farming. As the vegetation recovered, back to the D707, which skirts along the
This 125 000 hectare area on the edge the game was returning, and Jőrn eastern edge of the dune fields through
of the Namib Desert is situated within told us theyʼd even had a few leopard the Naukluftberg Nature Reserve up
the triangle of the Fish River Canyon, sightings and one cheetah sighting. The to Sossusvlei. The landscapes are
Sossusvlei and Lüderitz. It comprises farm is also blessed with a profusion breathtaking – deceased kameeldoring
a number of farms run by conser- of Hoodia cactus, which was used by trees silhouetted against a shimmering
vation-minded farmers whoʼve created the San people to suppress hunger and landscape of multiple hues. I have
facilities to welcome visitors to share thirst on long hunts. More recently the to agree that this stretch of road is
these vast and beautiful landscapes in drug companies have discovered its certainly worthy of its reputation of
which they live. In the west, the red properties, and itʼs currently being used being the most scenic road in Namibia.
dunes rise above the shimmering white in the quest for the ultimate diet pill. It is, however, best travelled at dawn or
plains like a tidal wave extending all Fortunately these little plants are now dusk when the light is softer and
the way from the Atlantic coast. At its protected by law and cannot be grown,
centre is the 2 000 m high Tirasberg, except under licence. Left caption
a vast granite mass rearing out of the From Aubures we headed into the
scorched gravel plains. heart of the Tiras Berge to a farm Below caption
Our first stop was at the farm called Koimasis, or “Meeting Place”
Aubures of Jőrn and Adrienne Miller. in Nama. Apparently the area had

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 red dunes rise above the shimmering
white plains like a tidal wave

caption

the landscape more dramatic. Itʼs also

the time when the game is active, and
we passed several herds of gemsbok,
springbok, kudu and zebra en route.
Itʼs interesting that this game migrates
freely (and is encouraged to do so)
across farm boundaries, following
the sporadic rainfall. This migration
pattern is essential to the survival of the
species that form this unique ecosystem
in the oldest desert in the world.
On our return south from Sossusvlei
we visited the farm Gunsbewys
belonging to Mrs Gertrude Gräbner,
an eccentric old lady of the desert who
welcomes everyone as if they were
friends of the family. She is only too
keen to share her passion for the desert
with each and every guest. She offers
guided dune walks that take you to
the highest dune in the area in time to
enjoy the sunrise with a cup of coffee
from the thermos. On the way down,
she points out all the intricacies of lives
adapted to this environment, some of
which are extremely uncommon and
only to be found in her little corner
of the Namib. We were fortunate caption

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caption

enough to see one of them, the Dune

Lark (Certhilauda erythrochlamys),
which was admittedly a rather drab LBJ
(Little Brown Job). A number of rare
beetle species had apparently also drawn
researchers from all over the world, and
I could only marvel at her extensive
collection pinned to a board in her
house, each one carefully labelled with
its Latin name. Guided dune drives are
offered by her neighbour, a very skilled
driver in these sandy conditions, from
whom I certainly learned a few tricks.
Just remember to pack a pump and
a pressure gauge for re-inflating
those tyres.
Her rock-painting walk was the
highlight of my visit. Although the
paintings themselves are not of the
highest quality Iʼve seen, I was blown
away by the number of artefacts
scattered around at each of the sites we
visited: arrow tips, hand axes, grinding
stones, ostrich shell beads, pottery
shards and large flat rocks that had
been smoothed by centuries of animal
skins being stretched and rubbed across
their surfaces.
At one of the overhang shelters, Mrs
Graebner related a story told by an old
lady on a neighbouring farm who had
been just a little girl when the area
was first occupied by German settlers.
Apparently, at that time a lone San man
was still living up in the mountains and
was tolerated by her family. A friend
of her fatherʼs was injured in a hunting
accident on the farm; his wound

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 caption caption

had turned septic and no treatment they dune and mountain tours, games walks to rock climbing and horse
could offer him was helping. With no drives, desert walks, bird walks, riding – something for everyone in an
apparent knowledge of the accident, this succulent walks and rock-painting altogether breathtaking setting.
San man had appeared one morning at
the homestead, offered a remedy which CONTACTS
he applied to the patient, and disap-
peared back into the mountains. Koiimasis Camping, Nature drives, Succulent
Within a few days the wound had Wulff & Anke Izko walks (Lithops)
healed and the patient was back on PO Box 14, Helmeringhausen
his feet. It was clear to me from all Tel: +264-(0)6368-3052 Gunsbewys
this evidence that the San people had www.koiimasis.com PO Box 30566, Windhoek
lived and thrived in this seemingly Exclusive camping ground. Self catering Mrs. Gertrude Graebner
hostile environment with knowledge rock chalets. Horse riding and wild Tel +264-(0)638-6604
that we have long since lost. I wondered, horses. Ostrich and parrot farming Camping and self catering chalet.
as we drove along the sandy track back Visitor’s centre
to the homestead, what other secrets Landsberg 4x4 Dune and nature drives, Dune
these people had known that have Wilfred and Annelise Izko walks, Rock painting walks
been lost to us for ever. Unfortunately, Tel. +264-(0)638-6522
our time in the Tirasberg was coming 4x4 Mountain drives Aubures
to an end. We said our goodbyes and Jorn 7 Adrienne Miller
headed down the D707 south towards Tiras Tel: +264 (0)6362 ask operator for 6502
home, knowing that we would be Klaus-Peter & Anita Koch [email protected]
back to explore the area further. The PO Box 30566, Windhoek Camping, 4x4 trails and night drives,
farms in the conservancy offer a wide Tel: 264-(0)638-6930 Nature walks
variety of activities from guided 4x4

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