FASHION STUDIES INCLUDING

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE IN
APPARELS
Unit 7, 8 & 9
M.B.A RFM Semester I
School of Retail & Fashion Merchandise
FDDI Chhindwara
Introduction
• The three primary needs of Man are food, clothing and
shelter. The fact that clothing precedes shelter goes to
prove that it is indeed man‟s second skin. Clothing is used
today across the world, is made of a piece of fabric or
textile.
• Today, the textile industry enjoys a special place in the
world
Reasons for Origin of Clothing
• Primitive man must have been spurred by an instinct for
creative expression. Traditionally, clothes have served
the following purposes:
– Adornment which serve to exalt the ego and arouse emotions in
others
– Communication by means of symbols
– Modesty or feeling of shame
– Physical protection against extreme climatic conditions; wild
animals and insects
– Psychological protection against evil forces and black magic
TEXTILES HISTORY IN INDIA
• The term 'Textile' is a Latin word originating from the word
'texere' which means „to weave‟. The history of textile is
almost as old as that of human civilization and as time
moves on the history of textile has further enriched itself
RELEVANCE OF TEXTILES INDUSTRY
• The textile industry holds significant status in the India.
was predominantly unorganized industry even a few
years back, but the scenario started changing after the
economic liberalization of Indian economy in 1991. The
Indian textile industry is the second largest in the world--
second only to China. Today textile sector accounts for
nearly 14% of the total industrial output.
– It is accounting for 20 percent of total industrial production and
slightly more than 30 percent of total export earnings
Different Segments of Indian Textile Industry
• Woolen Textile
• Cotton Textiles
• Silk Textiles
• Readymade Garments
• Jute And Coir
• Hand-Crafted Textile Like Carpets
• Man Made Textiles
Assets/Strength of Indian Textile Industry are as Follows

– Huge textile production capacity

– Availability of highly trained manpower in both, management and technical
– Large pool of skilled and cheap work force
– Huge export potential
– Large domestic market
– Flexible textile manufacturing systems
– High availability of raw materials.
– Availability of all kinds of fibers like silk, cotton, wool and even high quality
synthetic fibers
– Flexibility of the readymade garment industry in terms of sizes, fabric variety,
quantity, quality and cost
– The apparel industry is largest foreign exchange earning sector, contributing
12% of the country's total exports.
Weaknesses of Indian Textile Industry are as Follows
• The high cost of components.
• The high cost of finance.
• Competition from foreign countries as a result of the
lowering of import duties on textile machinery.
• The high quality of imported textile equipment.
• Imports of cheap textiles from other Asian neighbors
• Use of outdated manufacturing technology
• Poor supply chain management
• In India, labor laws are still found to be relatively unfavorable to the trades, with
companies having not more than ideal model to follow a 'hire and fire' policy.
• high-level disadvantages is due to its geographic location which in terms of
logistics leads to higher shipping cost compared to many competitor.
OPERATIONS OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY
• Supply Chain
• Textile Production
Supply
•
Chain
The textiles and apparel sectors can be seen as a supply chain consisting of a
number of discrete activities the three basic elements being textile production,
apparel “assembly,” and final distribution and sales.
• Thus can be characterized under four segments.
• Raw Materials Preparation of fibers; be that natural or man-made or synthetic
fibers.
• Textiles The treatment of raw materials, i.e. the preparation or production of
various textiles fibers, and/or the manufacture of yarns (through spinning).the
production of knitted and woven fabrics/cloth (i.e. knitting and weaving)the pre-
processing of textiles by dyeing, printing the production of:
• carpets and other textile floor covering;
• home textiles (such as bed linen, table linen, toilet linen, kitchen linen,
curtains, etc);
• technical or „industrial‟ textiles
Supply Chain…..cntd
• Apparel
• the transformation of fabrics into products such as
clothes/garments/apparel through knitting, weaving or
sewing ( the so-called "apparel" industry)
• Services
gathering of market data, product design and fashion
marketing, retailing and selling of apparel and textiles
logistics, (storage, transports and distribution of apparel
and textiles)
Textile Production
• Fiber Production-
• India is the third-largest producer of cotton in the world with annual production
of some 3 million tons or about 15 percent of the world total. India is also the
world‟s second-leading producer of silk, with annual output of nearly 15 million
kilograms.
• Textile Sector-
The handloom sector is an integral part of rural life in India,
employing more than 12 million workers.
• Power-Loom Sector-
• The power loom sector comprises 367,000 units with a workforce of 6.8 million
people. Unlike the handloom sector, the power loom sector uses power-driven
shuttle looms.
• Yarn Production-
• India‟s production of spun yarn in 1999 totaled 3.0 billion kilograms, 72 percent
of which consisted of cotton
Textile Production
• Fabric Production
– Approximately 64 percent of fabric production consisted of cotton or cotton
blends. Most fabric production occurs with the power loom sector generating
60 percent and the handloom sector and the knitting mills (hosiery) producing
36 percent of the total.
• Dyeing and Finishing
– India‟s fabric dyeing and finishing segment is significantly underdeveloped in
terms of technology, leading to low product quality and environmental
problems. A lack of investment in the dyeing and finishing segment has hurt
the competitiveness of Indian textile mills and has effectively limited their
ability to supply quality fabrics for domestic apparel producers.
• Apparel Sector
– India‟s apparel sector is highly fragmented, comprising about 30,000 units
and employing some 3 million people.India has about 6,000 knitting units
registered as producers or exporters.
FABRIC RESOURCES
• A primary source of fabric is companies that makes or
creates the material, in this category are mills and
converters.
– Mill-The mill is a company that owns textiles machinery and
makes fabric. The large textile mills are vertically integrated.
– Converter-An individual or organization that buys greige (or grey)
goods (unfinished fabric), usually from mills, has the fabric dyed
or printed and finished buy other companies, and then sells the
finished fabric
• Importer-
– The textile importing companies are of two types:
– The direct importer buys fabrics or manufactured textile products
from a foreign mill or other supplier.
– Import mills, is a foreign company that owns textile machinery and
makes the fabric ( or yarns) that is then exported.
– A secondary source of fabric is a company, which buys cloth and
then sells it.
• Such a company is not involved in the making or creating of the material.
• Therefore, any seller of fabric other than mills and converters is
considered a secondary source.
 Jobber-
 The jobber buys from mills, converters. Although the
purchases of jobber are of a specific fabric type like prints or
color. Small, jobbers are valuable customers of the mills and
converters. Jobbers often buy mill or converter fabrics that
would otherwise be difficult to sell, including discontinued
styles and colors and mill overruns.
◦ A mill overrun or tailing occurs when a mill produces more
dyed, printed or finished fabric than the order specified. The
excess cloth usually results from a decline in anticipated
sales.

 Retail Store-
◦ Fabrics sold in the retails store are called over the counter sales and
are bought by home sewer for their own needs.
 Most fabrics sold to garment and other manufactures are in a rolled, in
either open width or tubular form.
 Some fabrics are doubled and rolled. Such fabrics are folded in half
lengthwise, and then wound around a flat piece of cardboard.

 Cloth when sold to retail stores is usually in this put-up, in fewer than 30
yard lengths. Velvet and other plush fabrics are usually not rolled
because the resulting pressure would flatten the surface. Pieces of
woven fabric less then 40 yards in length are called shorts. Jobbers
normally are the buyers of these short pieces of woven fabric.
• Textile Fiber- is a smallest part of the fabric.
This single hair like strand of fabric is called a fiber. They are the basic building
block used in manufacturing fabric. It can be called a body that is very long in
relation to the thickness.
• Primary Properties of Fibers-
• A fiber must possess these to qualify as a suitable substance for use in
forming textile fibers.
• These include:
• Length to Width Ratio
• Strength (Tenacity)
• Flexibility
• Cohesiveness
• Uniformity
• ……..continued..
• 1) Length to Width Ratio-
• The fiber must be long enough to allow processing & slender enough to be
flexible.
• 2) Strength (Tenacity)-
• Fiber must possess enough strength to withstand chemical or machine
processing. It‟s related to durability of fiber & final product.
• 3) Flexibility / Pliability-
• The ability of a fiber to resist repeated bending without rupture is flexibility or
pliability.
• Important for end use :
• Influence the hand/ feel
• Draping/ falling quality of apparel & home furnishing
• Capacity to move with body& permit freedom movement
• Durability of end product
• 4) Cohesiveness or Spinning Quality-
• It is ability of fibers to adhere/ stick to each other or cling together
during yarn manufacturing process.
• 5) Uniformity-
• To convert fiber into yarn, a fiber must possess similar length &
width, cohesiveness, strength & flexibility. It produces even yarns &
fabrics of uniform appearance.
Secondary Properties-of Fabric
 (A) Physical Properties
Physical Shape-
 This includes average length, surface contour, surface irregularities & cross section.
Fineness-Relative sizes, Diameter are measures of fineness of the fiber.
Luster- Luster is the gloss, sheen or shine that fiber possesses. Determined by the way
light is reflected from the surface of the fiber.
 Effect of Cross sectional shape-
◦ Smooth surface reflect light back to their sources & appear shiny.
◦ Silk has more regular surface so gives distinct luster.
 Color-
 Fibers are available in wide range of colors. White or colourless fibers are preferred as
they can be dyed or printed with different colours.
 E.g. Wool- off white, tan, brown, gray or black
 Cotton- usually white or cream
 Manmade- exist in wide range
  Moisture Absorption-
The amount of water a fiber can absorb from the atmosphere or water bath may affect apparel
comfort, fabric care, and textile processing & fiber price.
 Fibers are usually categorized:
◦ Hydrophilic- Those „like‟ or absorb water.
◦ Hydrophobic- those that „dislike‟ or do not absorb water.
 Elongation & Recovery-
Elongation- the amount of stretch or extension that a fiber will accept is referred as elongation.
Elastic recovery- it is the ability of a fiber to recover its original length immediately after removal
of the load. If fiber recovers completely from deformation, it exhibits 100% elastic recovery. If
does not, it is said to exhibit permanent Growth.
 Resiliency-
The ability of fiber to return to its original shape after compression, bending, creasing, twisting
or similar deformation is resiliency.
 Abrasion Resistance-
The wearing away of a material by rubbing against another surface is known as Abrasion.
 B) Thermal Properties-
◦ The reaction of a fiber to heat & flame are considered its
thermal properties. Most textile fibers burn when exposed
to a flame.
◦ Fiber with low incidence of burning will be safer than fibers
that burn quickly.
• Some fibers melt &drip- Nylon
• Self extinguisher – Wool, silk
• Glow afterwards- Cotton , Rayon
 C) Biological Properties-
◦ Its behavior of fibers towards insects, beetles, moths,
microbes, bacteria, fungi, mildews etc.
 D) Chemical Property-
 (i) Reaction to Bleaches-
Bleaches are chemical solutions designed to remove discoloration.
Hydrogen peroxide is used.
 (ii) Reaction to Alkalis-
◦ Cellulosic- Not harm by alkalis
◦ Protein- Harmful
 (iii) Reaction to Acids-
Concentrated cold or dilute hot mineral acids such as sulphuric acid, will
destroy it- Cellulosic Wool
 Resistant to dilute acids.
 Although wool is damaged by hot sulphuric acid, it is not affected by
other acids, even when heated.
•FIBER & YARN
FIBERS
CLASSIFICATION OF FIBERS
 Classification based on Length of fibers:
◦ Fibers come as short fibers and long fibers and their length is an
important property of fibers.
 Staple fiber- is a unit of matter which is usually at least 100 times
longer than it is thick. They are short length fibers. All natural fibers like
cotton, flax, wool except silk are staple fibers.
 Filament fiber- is a very long fiber. The length of filaments may range
from a few 100mts e.g. Silk to several km, all Manmade fibers.
CLASSIFICATION OF FIBERS
• Natural Fibers- are those which are obtained from different sources of the
nature.
• Three Sources:
• Vegetable/ plant
• Animal
• Mineral
• Part of the Plant- Seed- Cotton
• Bast / Stem- Jute, Linen
• Leaf- Sisal
• Fruit- Coir
• Animal- Silk, Wool
• Mineral- Asbestos
CLASSIFICATION OF FIBERS
 II) Manufactured Fibers –
1) Regenerated fibers- manufactured from any of the natural
source eg., cellulose, (waste cotton fibers or wood pulp) or
protein treated with different types of chemicals.
◦ E.g. - Rayon –regenerated cellulose fiber.
2) Synthetic fibers- are produced from chemicals by combining
carbon, oxygen, hydrogen & other simple elements into larger
complex molecular combinations called polymers. E.g. - Nylon,
Polyester, acrylic
3) Metallic fibers- are produced by mining & refining metals
such as aluminum, silver & gold.
UNIT 8 WEAVING KNITTING &
NON WOVEN FABRICS
WEAVING
• Weaving -is the method of
fabric construction in which at
least two sets of yarns are
interlaced at right angles to
each other in some
established sequence or
pattern.
• Warp yarn or Ends- the yarns
running along the length of
the fabric.
• Weft or Filling or Pick- the
yarns running across.
LOOM: PARTS AND OPERATION
• Loom-Weaving of warp & filling yarns is accomplished in
a machine commonly called Loom. The basic loom
consists of some system to hold the long warp under
tension & spread apart so the weft yarns can be laid
through the opening
Parts of Loom
• Warp Beam- This holds the lengthwise yarns. It is located at the back of the loom & releases
yarns to the weaving area as needed. The warp yarns are then unwound and passed
through a solution before being wound onto a warp beam in a process known as beaming.
The size solution forms a coating that protects the yarn against snagging or abrasion during
weaving. Slashing, or applying size to the warp yarn.
• Heddles-They are the wire or metal strips with a eye located in center through which a warp
end is threaded.
• Harness-It is frame that holds a group of heddles. Each loom has at least 2 harnesses &
can have as many as 32 harnesses.
• Shuttle- It carries the weft yarn across the shed & places the weft into its position. A boat-
like device to carry the filling yarn on a stick called a quill or bobbin,
• Reed-It is comb like structure. Narrow openings or dents exist between the wires, the
purpose of which is to keep the warp yarns separated. It is parallel to harness. Responsible
for packing the filling yarns into position against previous placed pick yarn.
• Cloth Beam or Cloth Roll- it is located at the front of the loom & holds the completed fabric
Weaving Operation
• It consists of 4 steps regardless of the kind of loom,
• Shedding-
• It is process of raising & lowering of warp ends by means of heddles & harnesses to form the
Shed. Shed is the opening b/w warp yarns through which the filling yarns can be passed..
• Picking- it is actual procedure of placing the weft yarns into shed.
• As the harnesses raise the heddles, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created. The
filling yam in inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. A single
crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is known as a pick. As the
shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side
of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling.
• Beating/ Battening- Evenly packing the weft yarns into position against the yarns previously
placed done with the reed.
• Taking up & Letting off-
• Taking up involves the newly formed fabric on to the cloth bean. Letting off is releasing yarns
from the warp beam.
TYPES OF LOOMS
• Shuttle Looms- These looms depend on a shuttle, which
encloses a weft yarns to lay the pick.
• Procedure-
– As the shuttle moves across the shed, the yarn is laid. The shuttle
stops at the opposite side of the fabric, a new shed is formed & shuttle
returns across the loom to lay a second pick. This is repeated till fabric
is complete.
• Disadvantages-
– Extremely noisy as the hammer or bar that knocks the shuttle across
the shed makes noise each time it hits the shuttle.
– Slow process
– The shuttle cannot have large meters of yarns & need to be refill again
& again which leads to knots in the fabric.
TYPES OF LOOMS
• Shuttleless Looms-
• Some Features are: It removes the filling supply package
from filling carrier (Shuttle). The filling carrier could be
made smaller so that yarn movement in shedding could
be reduced. Each type uses a different method of picking,
which provides specific characteristics and applications.
These looms have high rate of filling insertion. They use
large, exterior filling packages. It also reduces noise &
vibration. E.g.- Projectile Looms, rapier Looms, Jet
Weaving etc.
TYPES OF SELVAGES (SELVEDGES)
• Selvages (Selvedges)-Shuttle moves back & forth across the width of the shed, it
weaves a self edge called the selvage or selvages, on each side of the fabric. It
prevents the fabric from raveling.There are different kinds of selvages:
• Plain Selvages-These selvages are constructed of the simple plain weave with
the same size yarn as the rest of the fabric, but with the threads packed more
closely together. Such selvages are fairly durable and firm.
• Tape Selvages-
• The tape selvages are sometimes constructed with the plain weave but often are
made of the basket weave, which makes a flatter edge. Tape selvages are made
of heavier yarns or ply yarns, which provide greater strength.
• Split Selvages-Split selvages are made by weaving a narrow width fabric twice
its ordinary width with two selvages in the center. The fabric is then cut between
the selvages, and the cut edges are finished with a chain stitch or hem.
TYPES OF SELVAGES (SELVEDGES)
• Fused Selvages-These selvages are made on fabrics of
thermoplastic fibers, such as nylon, by heating the edges of the fabric.
The fibers melt and fuse together, sealing the edges. This technique
is sometimes used to split wide fabrics into narrower widths.
• Leno Selvage –The leno selvage is used on some shuttle less looms.
The construction utilizes a narrow leno weave, which locks the cut
ends along the fabric edge. A loose weave generally requires a tight
leno selvage, whereas a light weave may have a leno selvage with
less tension.
• Tucked Selvage-The tucked selvage is a technique used on some
shuttle less looms. A device is used to tuck and hold the cut ends into
the fabric edge.
THREAD COUNT
• Also known as cloth count is determined by counting the
number of warp yarns and filling yarns in a square inch of
fabric. These yarns are commonly referred to as ends,
and picks, terms that are synonymous with warp and
filling
BASIC WEAVES
• Plain Weave / tabby weave It is simplest & most used weave.
It is the most common type of construction. This weaving type
has a wide range of fabric from sheerest to the heaviest. It
consists of the alternate shedding of warp yarns to provide a
fabric in which each filling yarn passes over one warp & under
adjacent warp.
• Balanced Weave - When the number of warps yarns per inch is
approx the same as the number of filling yarns per inch.
• Unbalanced Weave- when the number of yarns per inch differs
considerably.
• Important features: -
– Firm construction.
– Wear well & ravel less than fabrics with other weaves.
– Provide good background for printing & embossed designs.
– Inexpensive to produce
– E.g.- Chambray, Organdy, Chiffon, Muslin, crepe, Voile, Cambric etc.
– The warp were to be made from a single yarn and the filling from a colorful
boucle yarn, a quite different, much more decorative fabric would result.
– Decorative effects can be achieved by using novelty yarns or yarns of different
colors.
– Plain weave fabric may have:
• a low fabric count or are constructed of fine yarns and are usually
sheer. E.g.-Cheesecloth
• High-count balanced plain weaves with fine yarns. E.g.- Chiffon
Variation of Plain Weave
• i) Rib Weave-
• Rib effect is produced by:
• Employing coarser or heavy yarn in filling or warp direction.
• filling by alternating fine yarns with coarse yarns
• Single yarns with doubled yarns
• Grouping yarns in specific areas of Wp or Wf.
• Having more warp than filling yarns per inch
• e.g. Poplin
•
Variation of Plain Weave
• ii) Basket Weave-
• These weaves are made by
having groups of 2 or more warp
yarns interlacing as one yarn (a
unit) with one or more filling yarn
treated as a unit. Reversible
unless finish or print make one a) Regular basket weave: basket weaves 2X2,
3X3 and 4X4 exist.
side face. They are not firm as • b) Irregular basket weave: This is generally
regular plain weave. These a combination of irregular warp and weft
ribs. E.g.- 2X4, 3X
weave has Low strength. • Important Features-
• Basket variation in which 2 – Decorative weave
warps pass over & under one – Not durable & easily shrink in washing
filling is called as 2 X 1 weave.
Twill Weave
• Twill weave are characterized by a diagonal line on the
face of the fabric & often on the back of the fabric.
• The face diagonal vary –
• 14 angle -Reclining twill
• 75 angle -Steep twill
• 45 angle- medium or regular twill
• Simplest twill uses 3 picks & 3 warps ends to form the
repeat. At least 3 harnesses are required on loom. In 2/1
twill (2up & 1 down), the warp yarn goes over 2 filling
yarns & under one. It varies from 3 to 15 harnesses.
Variation of Twill weave:
• i) Right hand twill- If the diagonal moves from the lower
left to the upper right of fabric.
• ii) Left hand twill- if the diagonal moves from upper left to
lower right.
• iii) Even Twill- when filling yarns pass over & under the
same number of warp yarns.
• iv) Uneven Twill- the picks goes either more or fewer
warps than it goes under.
Important Features-
• They have distinctive & attractive appearance.
• Fabrics are durable as yarns per inch is more.
• Yarns are tightly twisted & have good strength.
• It is wrinkle resistant.
• It has fewer interlacing than plain weave.
• It is more raveling than plain weave.
• Expensive
• These fabrics have a right & wrong side so are reversible.
Types of Fabrics
• Denim:
• A Strong Warp Face Cotton Cloth used for overall, Jeans
skirts etc. Largely made in 3/1 twill weave. Generally
warp yarn is dyed brown or blue and crossed with white
weft.
• Broken twill-
• Variation of the twill weave is called Herring Bone weave.
In this the twill is at frequent intervals to form a Zig-Zag
effect
Satin Weave
• Satin weave is characterized by long floats on the face of the fabric.
Warp ends float on the surface. Filament yarns are generally used.
Long floats create a shiny surface & tend to reflect light. Satin fabrics
have 5-8 harnesses. Beyond 8 is not very common.
• Variation of satin weave
»Sateen- In this type of weave filling yarns floats on the
surface of the fabric. Staple fibers are more common
• Important feature of satin weave-
– Fabrics are lustrous & are selected for appearance & smoothness.
– Floats in satin & sateen tend to snag & abrade easily.
– Not durable as plain & twill weave.
• Household Uses: Draperies, quilts
• E.g.- Satin, sateen, Brocade, Crepe-back satin, Velvet Satin
FANCY/ DECORATIVE WEAVES
• Dobby Weave-
• Dobby weaves are characterized by small figures as
dots, geometric designs & small floral patterns.
These are produced by combination of 2 or more
basic weaves. e.g. Plain weave satin weave or plain
& twill weave. In their construction may have up to
32 harnesses. Design is produced by dobby
pattern chain.
• Fabrics with Dobby Weave
• Brocade
• Moss Crepe
• White-on-white has a white dobby figure woven on a
white background and is often used for men‟s
shirting.
Jacquard Weave
• Fabrics with extremely complicated woven designs are
manufactured using Jacquard loom attachments. Each
warp yarn is individually controlled instead of series. The
Jacquard loom was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard.
Separate yarn control provides freedom to produce
intricate motifs, often forming scenes or designs
• These are expensive as:
– Machinery is complex
– Complicated to operate
• Costly to build
• Method of Construction:
• Warp is individually controlled with each pick passage creating
intricate designs

• Characteristics of Jacquard Weave

– The fabrics have the tendency to have floats.
– It has luster contrasts.
– varying drape ability and durability
– It has snagging potential.
– It is more stable and resilient than the basic weaves.
– Yarns woven into unlimited designs, often intricate, multicolor effect
– Expensive, but the design doesn't fade or wear out
– Durability depends on the fiber used
Swivel Weave
• Decorative effects such as dots, circles or other
figures are interwoven on the surface while it is
being constructed on the loom. The weaving of
the design requires an extra filling yarn &
additional small shuttles or insertion devices.
Pile Weave
• In this extra set of Wp or Wf yarns is interlaced with the ground
Wp or Wf in such a manner that loops or cut ends extend from
the base fabric. Base fabric has either a plain or twill weave.
These fabrics have good absorbency. They provide warmth as
air trapped b/w the loops. These fabrics are close woven. They
are normally medium to heavyweight.
• Warp pile fabrics have two sets of warp yarns and one set of
filling yarns. E.g- Velvets, Towels
• Filling pile fabrics have two sets of filling yarns. E.g.- Velveteen,
corduroy
 Variation of Pile Weave
• Uncut Pile:
• Loops are possible on both sides of fabric. These fabrics are Soft
and absorbent, relatively inexpensive. They can snag if loops are
caught . The Fabrics with uncut pile is very strong because the loops
of the yarn run continuously from face of the carpet through its back
• Common Fabrics: Frieze, terry cloth
• Household Uses: Upholstery, carpet, area rugs, Hand towels, bath
towels, extra large and beach towels
Cut Pile
• These fabrics are soft and warm, resilient, absorbent. Cut pile
fabrics may have a nap that must be matched. May be
expensive and need professional cleaning
• Method of Construction:
– Similar to uncut pile, but loops have been cut
• Household uses: Upholstery, stage draperies.
• Different types of Cut pile Fabric:
– Corduroy: Corded velveteen Structures in which a weft pile forms
longitudinal lines or cords, strong heavy clothes being used for
trouser-rings, smoking jackets and lighter fabrics for dress materials.
– Velvet: warp pile are interlaced with the ground filling
– Velveteen: filling pile yarns are interlaced with ground warp
Double Weaves
• These are formed by using 2 sets of warp yarns, 2
sets of filling yarns.
• Variation:
– With Tie or binder
• A true double weave, a fifth set of yarn serve as a tie or binder
holding the two layers of fabric together. They can be easily
separated.
– Without Tie or binder
• Two sets of Wp & Wf separately form fabric layers. These may
move from 1 fabric layer to other in such a way that fabric interlocks.
One layer of fabric cannot be destroy, without destroying the whole
fabric.
Leno Weave
• Leno weave fabric is also called as gauze
or doup weave. These fabrics are mesh-
like fabric. A leno weave fabric is very
sheer and durable with no yarn slippage.
It is stronger and firmer permitting the
passage of both light and air through it.
• Method of Construction:
• A pair of warp threads are passed over
and under the filling yarns in a figure 8 or
an hourglass twist, creating a geometric
pattern
• Common Fabrics: Gauze , Net
DEFECTS IN WOVEN FABRICs
• Float (Jala)- A float or Jala is formed when there is no
proper interlacement of the warp and weft yarns over a
certain area. The remedial measures are the use of
overall high warp tension.
• Weft Crack (Jerki) –
• A strip in the fabric where the pick density is lower than
normal is called a weft crack or jerki
DEFECTS IN WOVEN FABRICs
• Crammed Pick (Patti-
• A strip in the fabric where the pick density is more than
normal is called a patti.
• Shuttle Smash-
• The defect is caused when many ends break consequent
to a shuttle trap. The important causes of shuttle trap are :
wrong timing of shedding, soft picking, insufficient
checking of shuttle in the boxes, and damaged or broken
picking accessories .
DEFECTS IN WOVEN FABRICs
• Improper Weft Threading (Single Moti)-
• The defect is characterized by a loose and uneven selvedge consisting of weft
and warp protruding loosely beyond the true selvedge line.
• Gout-
• Hardened fluff, as well as foreign matter such as piece of leather accessories or
wood chips, woven into the texture of the fabric is called gout.
• Hard Size-
• The defect is characterized by uneven and distorted appearance of the fabric,
because of hard gummed spots in the warp. Use of cold size or keeping the
immersion roller dipped in size during a long machine stop causes such spots.
• Stains (Daghi)-
• Stains are caused by lubricants and rust. Most of the stains can be traced back to
poor maintenance and material handling.
KNITTING
 KNITTING
• KNITTING CONCEPTS
Knitted fabrics are constructed with a
single yarn that is formed into
interlocking or interloping of loops by
the use of hooked needles on
sophisticated machines. The loops
maybe either loosely or closely
constructed, according to the purpose
of the fabric. The Knitted fabrics are
very popular as they are light weight,
stretchable & comfortable to wear.
Principle of Knitting
• Loop and Stitch-
• The loop is the fundamental element of all knitted fabrics.
It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its
base with previously formed basic units (stitches).
• The stitch is the smallest dimensionally stable unit of all
knitted fabrics. It consists of a yarn loop, which is held
together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other
loops.
Principle of Knitting-
Technical face-The outside of the Technical back-The inside of the
tube of fabric produced by a circular tube of fabric produced by a circular
knitting machine. This may or may knitting machine. This may or may
not be the outside of a finished not be the inside of a finished
garment made from the fabric
garment made from the fabric.
Construction of Knitted Fabrics
• The interlocking loops run lengthwise,
each row is called a Wale which
corresponds to the direction of warp
in woven fabrics. The series of loops
that intermesh in a vertical direction
are known as 'Wale'. The loops run
across, each row is called course.
Different types of needles are use for
knitting- Latch needle, compound
needles, Spring- beard needle etc.
The quality of needles will affect the
quality of the knitted fabric.
Laddering effect-
• When the threads of knitted fabrics break, the loop starts
slipping row by row.
• A run occurs when the stitches in wale collapse or pull
out.
Knitting and Fashion-
• The popularity of knitting has grown tremendously within recent
years because:
• 1. Of the increased versatility of techniques,
• 2. The adaptability of the many new manmade fibers,
• 3. The growth in consumer demand for wrinkle-resistant,
• 4. Stretchable,
• 5. Snug-fitting fabrics, particularly in the greatly expanding areas of
sportswear and other casual wearing apparel. The structure of the loop
of knitted fabric stretches and molds to fit body shapes
• Usage of knitted fabrics rages from hosiery, undergarments,
sweaters, slacks, suits, and coats, to rugs and other home
furnishings.
COMPARISON OF KNITTING & WEAVING
• 1)In Weaving the 2 sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles. In knitting
yarns is formed into interlocking loops.
• 2) Woven Fabric- less elastic & stretchable.
• Knitted Fabrics- stretch ability & elasticity are important features.
• 3) Knitted fabrics- are absorbent, light weight & wrinkle resistant as
compared to woven.
• 4) Knitted fabrics tend to loose shape & sag than woven.
• 5) In knitted fabrics if a loop breaks, a hole is made, which starts a run
• 6) The thread used in weaving is usually much finer than the yarn used in
knitting, which can give the knitted fabric more bulk and less drape than a
woven fabric.
• 7) Knit fabrics dominate the women‟s and children‟s wear markets, while
woven dominate the men's wear market.
KNITTING MACHINES
• Flat knitting machines
• The flat-type knitting machine has needles arranged in one or two
straight lines and held on a flat needle-bed. The cloth is made by
forming stitches on these needles. The resulting fabric is flat.
Machines with flatbeds are used to make both warp and weft knits.
 • Tabular or Circular knitting machines:
• The circular knitting machine has needles arranged in a circle
on a rotating cylinder. The resulting fabric is formed into a tube.
• Shaping on the Knitting Machine Fashioning- is the process
used to shape arts like armholes, neckline curves etc.
• Fashioning mark -Increasing or decreasing the number of stitches in
a row widens or narrows the garment being created while knitting.
Increasing is attained by moving outer loops sideways on a frame and
thereby creating extra loops. This process leaves a small eyelet hole in
the fabric which is known as a fashioning mark.
• Fully-fashioned- The process is reversed while decreasing and the
loops move inwards. Here the fashioning mark appears where two
loops are compressed into one new loop. Garments made in this way
are known as fully-fashioned and are regarded as high quality.
Computerized Knitting
• Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computer-Aided
Manufacturing (CAM) have revolutionized the knitting industry.
The 1970s saw the introduction of CAD/CAM systems.
Designers used the CAD system to create product designs and
these were transferred to CAM machines to manufacture the
final product. CAD/CAM technology replaced the mechanical
patterning and shaping devices on machines with electronic
controls.. New designs could be set up using CAD and quickly
produced on the CAM machine. The introduction of this
technology enabled companies to work globally, and on a fast
scale.
•
Introduction of Whole garment Knitting
• Side by side with the CAD/CAM knitting technology, the process of
whole garment knitting was introduced. In the 1970s companies
researched more efficient technologies which could produce a complete
garment in one process without the need for sewing. Without the loss
of fabric associated with cut and sew techniques, garments could be
knitted quickly. The absence of seams means that the garment can fit
close to the body and stretch more easily. Whole garment machines are
also capable of producing complex designs.
Types
•
of Knitting Yarn
The various types of knitting yarn are distinguished by their weight, purpose, ply,
source fiber, texture, color, and pattern.
• Knitting yarn can be made of natural or synthetic fiber.
• Advantages of Knitted Fabrics -
• Stretchable
• Absorbent
• Light in weight
• Figure-hugging yet comfortable
• Wrinkle resistant
• Disadvantages of Knitted Fabrics
• It shrinks
• Some knitted fabrics lose their shape and sag
• If one of the loops of a knitted garment breaks, a hole is made which starts a
run.
Weft Knitting Fabrics
• Those produced by weft knitting, where one continues
yarn forms courses across the fabric. When the yarns are
introduced in a crosswise direction, horizontal or filling-
wise direction, at right angles to the direction of growth of
the fabric, and run or interlock across the fabric, the knit is
known as a weft knit or filling knits.
Filling Knit - Stitches
• 1) Knit Stitch-
• It is the basic stitch used to
produce the majority of filling
knit fabrics. Knit stitch
(technical face) is of V-shape
appearance where the shanks
are above, and the feet are
below the head of the
preceding stitch.
Filling Knit - Stitches
• Tuck stitch-
• In this the old stitch is not
cleared or cast off from
the needle. There are two
stitches on the needle. It
consists of a held loop and
a tuck loop, both of which
are intermeshed in the
same course.
Filling Knit - Stitches
• Purl stitch (technical back)
is of the semi-circle
appearance where the legs
are below, and the feet are
above the head of the
preceding stitch.
Filling Knit - Stitches
• Float or Miss stitch-
• No new stitch is formed at
the needle, while adjacent
needle form new stitches. It
is used when the yarns of
different colors knit in to
create the design. E.g. if a
fabric incorporate two or
more colors in a pattern, one
color comes to the face and
other floats in this area.
DEFECTS IN KNITTED FABRICS
• Bands and Streaks There are different kinds of bands
and streaks that may occur in knitting. Some of the
popular defects are as follows:
• Barre Effect: A barre effect has the appearance of a
stripe with shaded edges. It is horizontal in weft knits and
vertical in warp knits.
• The barre effect is caused by various factors like:
• Lack of uniformity in yarn size, color or luster.
• Much tension on the yarns during knitting one section of the fabric.
• Uneven shrinkage or other finishing defects.
Stitch Defects
• There are various kinds of stitch defects like:
• Boardy: The knitted fabric becomes boardy (a stiff or harsh hand) when the
stitches have been knit very tightly.
• Cockled or puckered: If the knitted fabric is cockled or puckered, it is due to
uneven stitches or uneven yarn size.
• Dropped Stitch: This is an un-knitted stitch caused either by the yarn carrier
not having been set properly or the stitch having been knitted too loosely.
• Run or ladder: A run or ladder indicates a row of dropped stitches in the wale.
• Hole: A large hole or a press off is the result of a broken yarn at a specific
needle feed so that knitting cannot occur.
• Float: This is caused by a miss stitch which is the result of failure of one or
more needles to have been raised to catch the yarn.
BONDED ( NON WOVEN) &
COATED FABRIC
Felts
• Felt fabrics are produced from new, reprocessed or
reused wool fibers, physically interlocked with mechanical
efforts, chemical action, moisture & heat bonding without
the use of adhesive. Wool has the ability to coil, interlock
& shrink when it is subjected to moist heat with friction &
agitation.
Properties of Felts
• Felt fabrics have no warp or weft yarns like woven fabrics.
• It is sound absorbent and good insulator so has various
industrial uses like in making slippers, shoe insoles, table
padding.
• It can be cut into any shape.
• The edges require no finishes.
• Thin felts have considerably flexibility & hence suitable for
jackets.
• Rough felts have been used for making felt hats.
• The quality of felts can be improved by making them moth
proof, water repellent, fire resistant & mildew resistant.
Non Woven Fabric
• Non Woven include those fabrics structures which are
made by some means other than weaving or knitting. This
means a partial or complete elimination of conventional
yarn formation process. This leads to save large cost and
time. Today, non- wovens are used extensively in making
consumer durable products. This industry has a significant
potential for growth.
Characteristics of Non- woven Fabrics-
• The appearance of non- woven fabrics may be paper like, felt like or
similar to woven fabrics.
• Non- woven may be translucent or opaque.
• Their strength ranges from low to high.
• Drap-ability- good to none
• Some have excellent lauder ability, others have none.
• Non woven fabrics provide specific functions such as absorbency, liquid
repellency, resilience, stretch, softness, strength, flame retardancy, wash
ability, cushioning, and filtering, bacterial barrier.
• These properties are often combined to create fabrics suited for specific
jobs, while achieving a good balance between product use-life and cost
Uses
• 1) Durable-
• Apparel like caps, interlinings
• Home furnishings- Draperies, furniture upholstery, mattress, carpet backing.
• Industrial uses- filters ( tea, coffee, water) , insulation, tea bags , liquid
cartridge and vacuum bags, envelopes ,tags ,labels
• 2) Disposable- one time use. E.g. - diapers, surgical &
industrial masks, bandages, tissues, surgical gowns
• 3 ) Geotexiles- soil stabilizers, erosion control, canals
construction drainage systems, pond and canal water barriers
river flood control as bags & tubes. Geotextile is a non-woven
thermally bonded white geo-textile fabric used for separation,
filtration and erosion control.
Finishing Non Woven Fabrics
• Finishing Techniques are limited
• Dyeing is usually done after the fabric is formed
• May be calendared for smoothness or embossed for
textured effect
• May also be printed
• Softness can be added to improve the hand
COATED FABRICS
• Fabrics may be coated with thin polymer films to provide protection or
to simulate leather or other materials. Polymers most often used are
polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane.
• PVC-coated fabrics, often just called vinyls, are used to produce leather like
and protective materials.
• Lamination of extremely thin films on fabrics of Lycra spandex/nylon
has been used in the manufacture of lightweight, stretchable fabrics.
• The Lycra/nylon layer is bonded to a urethane film with a special
urethane adhesive system. Marketed under the trademark of Darlexx,
these fabrics are capable of passing moisture vapor for comfort.
Darlexx fabrics are said to be particularly suitable for active
sportswear, in particular for racing swimwear and windsurfing suits.