Formulating With Vitamin C-V1

Quick guide to formulating
with Vitamin C
QUICK GUIDE TO FORMULATING WITH VITAMIN C
Quick guide to formulating with Vitamin C

Thanks for downloading our free guide to formulating with Vitamin C!
In this quick guide to formulating with Vitamin C, we are going to share:

• What is Vitamin C?
• What are the benefits of Vitamin C?
• What type of cosmetic is it suitable for?
• Stable forms of Vitamin C and how to use them
Plus a Vitamin C antioxidant serum formula!
What is Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is a naturally occurring, water soluble vitamin known as ascorbic acid.
Ascorbic acid is the free form of Vitamin C, which is not only the most quickly
absorbed but is also the most effective when applied to the skin.
It has lots of amazing benefits for the skin but, as you may have heard, ascorbic
acid is notoriously unstable. It will oxidize very quickly; when dissolved in water
and exposed to oxygen it oxidizes to orange and then a brown product called
dehydroascorbic acid. Experienced formulators can stabilize ascorbic acid with
other antioxidants (if you’d like to learn how, it’s something we teach on our
Advanced Certificate in High-Performance Serum Formulation).
© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 2

Ascorbic acid
As it is highly unstable it tends to be the least favored when selecting which

Vitamin C to use in skincare products. Therefore, smaller molecules and more
stable forms such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and magnesium
ascorbyl phosphate are often used to achieve one of Vitamin C’s major functions:
to boost the production of collagen, an essential structural protein which helps to
keep the skin firm.
Is it natural?
Even though most vitamins are found in nature, some vitamins used as cosmetic
ingredients are made synthetically (but they are normally nature-identical).
Vitamin C (and certain derivatives) and Vitamin E as cosmetic ingredients can be
produced from natural origins. It’s always necessary to check with your supplier
about the source of the ingredient.
Benefits of Vitamin C
For the skin, Vitamin C the skin is most known for its antioxidant and collagen
synthesis stimulating properties. Vitamin C therefore functions as a potent anti-
aging ingredient. Especially in synergy with Vitamin E, it protects skin cells from
oxidative stress and damage due to UV light exposure. Topically applied ascorbic
acid also stimulates ceramide and collagen production, and thus helps to keep the
skin healthy and plump.
Boosting production of collagen

Vitamin C boosts production of collagen, an essential structural protein which
helps to keep the skin firm. This has been supported by many research studies that
have shown Vitamin C to regulate the synthesis of collagen by being involved in
a chemical reaction between collagen molecules, which is vital in maintaining and
supporting the skin’s elasticity.

In addition, other studies have also shown that Vitamin C can also stabilize
collagen mRNA (Messenger RNA – a molecule that conveys genetic information
for the making of collagen), subsequently increasing collagen production for the
repair of damaged skin. The increased collagen production occurs simultaneously
with a decrease in elastin production often associated with sun damaged skin, thus
helping to maintain the elasticity of the skin.
Furthermore, studies on Vitamin C has also revealed its ability to inhibit collagen-
degrading enzymes such as matrixmetalloproteinase (MMP- 1), also known as
enzyme collagenase-1, thus again protecting and maintaining the elasticity of the
skin.
Antioxidant
Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant that provides protection from free radicals
produced by the ultraviolet radiation from the sun and other environmental
stressors. It does this by neutralizing free radicals and disrupting the chain;
consequently, it can prevent and reduce damage which leads to the formation of
wrinkles and aging of the skin.
What type of cosmetic is it suitable for?

Vitamin C is commonly found in anti-aging leave-on products such as eye
treatment creams (also due to its skin brightening effects), microdermabrasion
products, overnight creams, facial moisturizers and anti-aging serums for the face
which help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as brighten
the look of the skin.
Stable forms of Vitamin C and how to use them

Due to stability issues, ascorbic acid derivatives are used in cosmetics. When they
penetrate the skin, they are converted to ascorbic acid and bring all the benefits of
pure Vitamin C, without the stability difficulties.
Here are some of the more stable forms of Vitamin C and some usage guidelines
for formulating with them.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Usage rates: Up to 10%.
Solubility: Soluble in water.
Phase/temperature: Add to the cold water phase of an aqueous product or the
cool-down phase of an emulsion.
Special requirements: Stable at pH levels 6-7.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Solubility: Soluble in water.
Phase/temperature: Add to the cold water phase of an aqueous product or the
cool-down phase of an emulsion.
Special requirements: Stable at pH levels 6-7, can withstand heating to 80°C
(176ºF).
Ascorbyl palmitate
Solubility: Soluble in ethanol and oil.
Phase/temperature: Heated oil phase.
Special requirements: Needs to be heated to 100°C (212ºF) so it melts and
dissolves in the oils. Stable at pH below 6 and temperatures below 113°C (235ºF).
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (often shortened to Tetra-C)

Solubility: Soluble in oil.
Phase/temperature: Cold oil phase of oil-based product or cool-down phase of an
emulsion.
Special requirements: In formulations containing water, it is stable at pH 6 and
below.

Vitamin C Antioxidant Serum

This serum is a high-performance anhydrous (oil-based) serum. It uses a stable
form of Vitamin C called Tetra C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) that is easy to work
with and provides excellent results. Ideally, it should be packaged in a dark glass
bottle with pipette closure.
Who is the serum suitable for?
People aged 30 and above who wish to slow down the formation of signs of aging
on the skin.
What skin type is it for?
It’s suitable for all skin types, especially aging and mature skin.
What is the purpose/function of the serum?
To protect against the negative effects of oxidative stress, due to sun exposure,
pollution, stress and aging.
What properties and qualities does it have?
Light oil serum, orange in color, no scent.

Which carrier oils does it contain and why?
Raspberry seed oil - for its high alpha-linolenic acid and Vitamin E content; buriti
oil - for its high beta carotene and Vitamin E content; carrot macerated oil - for the
beta carotene; jojoba oil - for its high stability and suitability for all skin types.
Which other lipid ingredients does it contain and why?
Squalane, to give the serum a lighter consistency, because it works as an occlusive

and is suitable for all skin types.
Which active ingredients does it contain and why?
Tetra-C - very stable oil soluble Vitamin C derivative. Vitamin E as an antioxidant to

protect the sensitive oils in the product.
Additional notes regarding the formulation.
The serum contains Tetra-C. Tetra-C can be purchased from a number of suppliers
including Making Cosmetics, Lotioncrafter, Bulk Actives and Trulux. If you find it
hard to purchase, you can replace it with ascorbyl palmitate, but the effects will be
different.

INGREDIENTS
QUICK GUIDE
TO DETOX
TO FORMULATING
FROM YOUR HAIRCARE
WITH VITAMIN
PRODUCTS
C
The formula
Phase INCI name Trade name Function w/w%

A Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil Raspberry seed oil Emollient 29.9
A Squalane Squalane Emollient 25
A Chimondisa Sinensis Oil Jojoba oil Emollient 15
A Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Buriti oil Emollient 10
Oil
A Helianthus Annuus and Carrot macerated oil Emollient 10
B-carotene
A Ascorbyl Tetra-C Antioxidant 10
Tetraisopalmitate
A Tocopherol Vitamin E Antioxidant 0.1
(Need guidance turning a formula into weight-based measurements? See this

article for help: How to turn a cosmetic formula into a recipe.)
Instructions
1. Mix together phase A ingredients and stir until homogenous.
2. Transfer into a dark bottle with a pipette closure.
Supercharging the serum

This serum already contains a powerful antioxidant in Tetra-C, but you can further
supercharge this formula and create an antioxidant concentrate formula by adding
three more antioxidants! You’ll find the formula for an Antioxidant Concentrate
Formula inside our Certificate in High-Performance Serum Formulation.

We hope this quick guide has given you a useful insight into formulating with
Vitamin C!
All our best wishes
Gail and Gareth Després

Directors, School of Natural Skincare International
Disclaimer: This eBook is provided to you “as is”: we make no representation as to its accuracy,
completeness, whether or not it is up-to-date, or that it will meet your requirements. Any recipes
and formulas provided to you are for demonstration purposes only. We accept no responsibility
or liability for your use of the eBook, which is entirely at your own risk.

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Quick guide to formulating

Quick guide to formulating with Vitamin C

In this quick guide to formulating with Vitamin C, we are going to share:

Plus a Vitamin C antioxidant serum formula!

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 2

As it is highly unstable it tends to be the least favored when selecting which

Boosting production of collagen

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 3

What type of cosmetic is it suitable for?

Stable forms of Vitamin C and how to use them

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 4

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (often shortened to Tetra-C)

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 5

Vitamin C Antioxidant Serum

Light oil serum, orange in color, no scent.

Squalane, to give the serum a lighter consistency, because it works as an occlusive

Tetra-C - very stable oil soluble Vitamin C derivative. Vitamin E as an antioxidant to

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 6

Phase INCI name Trade name Function w/w%

(Need guidance turning a formula into weight-based measurements? See this

2. Transfer into a dark bottle with a pipette closure.

Supercharging the serum

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 7

All our best wishes

Gail and Gareth Després

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com 8

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