The Warp Knitting Process Wale (direction

Composite
of knitting)

Pattern
Shaped
Layers

Relief
Sheet

Block
Warp guide

Yarn looped Continuous

Textile Technology around length of

Warp Knitting
needle yarn
Course

Latch Textile pulled

needle away
In warp knitting, one or more yarns are fed to each needle and Introduction
Machine warp knitting is a more recent
the stitches are made simultaneously, making this a very rapid development than weft knitting (page
process. With this technology it is possible to make plain, tubular, 126). The looped structure is formed
spacer and openwork textiles for a variety of applications. between multiple yarns running
lengthways (wales), as opposed to a
Coloured and patterned fabrics are produced using raschel Single-bed warp knitting Basic (or half tricot) Single atlas structure
single yarn across the width of the fabric technical back technical back

jacquard knitting with independently controlled guide bars. (courses), as is the case in weft knitting. Inlaid warp Pillar stitch

Each needle is fed with one or more yarns.

Formats Materials Costs So a long-sleeved t-shirt may consist of

warp knitting
up to 5,000 ends, depending on the
• Plain • Openwork (net and • Staple, filament and novelty yarn • Low to moderate unit cost
• Tubular lace) • Natural and synthetic • Very rapid cycle time machine gauge. With each stitch, the
• Spacer
yarn is tracked from side to side by the
guide bar and so intermeshes with
knit

Applications Quality Related Technologies

neighbouring yarns to produce a cohesive
• Apparel • Interior • Intermeshed structure less prone to ravel • Fancy loom weaving knitted structure.
With each stitch being formed by a
• Footwear • Technical • Continuous yarn • Machine weaving lace
144

145
• Dimensional stability • Weft knitting
separate yarn, a range of interlocked,
inserted yarn and open structures may be
produced. And it can be made in a range
of densities, from heavy cloth to fine lace.
By combining different loop patterns, net
may be incorporated into a solid ground, Diamond net Pillar stitch with yarn insertion
such as used to make upholstery and technical back technical back

seamless sportswear.

Technical description
Applications
Warp knitting forms courses and wales, just pattern down the length of the fabric. Due to mirror each other’s movements to create a
Single needle-bed machines are used
like weft knitting. However, the structure of the tension on the yarn, only one overlap in balanced fabric) and pile structures (long
to make plain and patterned fabrics
the loops and the range of possibilities for either direction is usually permitted. floats are formed on the technical back, tied
that are used flat, or cut and sewn into
loop formation are different. Overlapping the yarns at intervals forms into a knitted structure). Tricot machines
garments, underwear and upholstery.
Each needle is fed a separate yarn via an openwork structure. With conventional may have up to four guide bars.
Lace and nets are used to make garments,
underwear, curtains, fishing nets, a warp guide. The guide passes the yarn knitting machines, the guide bars move in Raschel machines have one or two

mosquito nets and packaging. Warp around the needle with each cycle. The warp tandem, so each stitch in a course on the needle beds. Machines equipped with two

knitting is particularly well suited to yarn is passed from one course to the next, same bar will be the same. This means that needle beds may have up to three guide
produce sequential lengths of fabric with thus creating a zigzagging intermeshed only balanced nets are possible, unless bars for each bed (six in total). They are set
fringed ends, such as scarves. structure. Each loop in the same course is knitting on raschel jacquard. up in a similar way to V-bed weft-knitting
Industrial applications include formed simultaneously. A pillar stitch is made up of chains of machines (page 134) with the needles back
reinforcing composite laminates, Single-bed machines, known as tricot, stitches that form unconnected wales. They to back. With this set-up, yarns may be
conveyor belts, safety clothing, tarpaulin, are used to make flat sheets of textile. must be connected by an inserted yarn, overlapped between both sets of needles
advertising banners and awnings. The basic warp knit, which is also known which is overlapped by a second guide bar at any point. This is how seamless tubular
Double needle-bed machines are as a half tricot, is produced with a single (for a detailed description of warp knitting structures, such as gloves and t-shirts, are
used to make all that single beds are guide bar. Lapping the stitches in the same with inlaid weft that does not pass around produced. With jacquard, each yarn guide
capable of, plus seamless and lightweight direction for a specific number of courses, the loops, see Stitch Bonding, page 196). is controlled independently. This is how
sportswear, swimwear, underwear, and back again, produces an atlas structure. Other types of two-bar fabric include complex patterns are reproduced.
lingerie and gloves. Jacquard knitting is The sideways movement produces a zigzag lock-knit, double atlas (the two guide bars
 used to make nets and lace employed stretch and little or no crosswise stretch industrial linings and geotextiles.
Visual Glossary: warp-knitted fabrics
in all manner of applications, from (weft-knit fabrics stretch more across Spacer textile is made up of two face
sportswear and lingerie to shoe uppers, their width). And certain constructions, fabrics connected by spacer yarn, which
medical products and upholstery. such as stitch-bonded nonwovens (page is perpendicular to the outer face fabrics.
196) and inlaid weft, may have virtually The thickness, density and resistance to
related technologies zero stretch in either direction. compression are determined by stitch and
Warp knitting is not as straightforward Warp-knitted fabrics are less likely yarn selection.
to design for as weft knitting, and so to ravel and run than weft-knitted types, Yarns are inserted to provide visual
remains less widely used. Processes used because the loop structure is formed or performance-enhancing properties
to join panels into finished garments, from multiple yarns intermeshed in a (see also stitch bonding with inlaid weft,
Technical face Technical back Technical face Technical back
such as linking (page 386), are only zigzag formation. page 201). Weft-insertion fabrics have
Half Tricot Tricot Atlas
compatible with the weft-knitted loop Lightweight warp knits are common yarn laid in across the wales, and warp- Material: Polyester Material: Polyester Material: Polyester
structure, although warp-knitted fabrics in sleepwear, because they are soft and insertion knits have yarns laid in-line Application: Apparel lining Application: Sports shoe Application: Laminating
Notes: Half tricot is a sheer fabric produced with a Notes: Full tricot has a smooth face with good cover, Notes: The lapping movement back and forth produces
may be joined by lock stitching (page 355). have good drape. The simplest fabrics are with the vertical chains. There are many single guide bar making repeated lapping motions. making it an ideal fabric for printing. a zigzag pattern down the fabric.
Both weft and warp knitting are characterized by vertical ribs (wales) on benefits of using these techniques, such
capable of producing seamless garments the face and horizontal ribs (courses) as introducing yarns that otherwise
in a single operation. A significant on the back. would be impractical to knit (too delicate,
advantage of warp knitting is the design too coarse or too fine) and reducing
opportunities of openwork structures. Design or increasing stretch and recovery,

warp knitting
For example, lightweight garments Basic fabrics, also known as tricot, are handle, surface or weight. Combined
with localized stretch, support and knitted with a single set of yarns and with jacquard, different yarns and
breathability are produced in a single single guide bar. Because a stitch is configurations are used to provide colour,
operation from multiple yarns. In addition formed on each needle simultaneously, pattern, graphics, stretch, bulk and so on.
knit

to creating openwork structures in a solid the machine can run at very high speed With the yarn insertion technique, it is Technical face Technical back

ground, the two may be combined in a – up to 2,000 courses per minute. Tricot possible to make uni-, bi- and multiaxial Two-Colour Raschel Jacquard Two-Colour Net Printed Net
Material: Polyester, nylon and elastane Material: Polyester, nylon and elastane Material: Polyester and elastane
single sheet to create a honeycomb layer machines are capable of producing fancy textiles, such as for high-performance
146

147
Application: Sportswear Application: Hosiery Application: Hosiery
on top of the ground, known as semi- fabrics by floating yarns over up to five composite laminates. One or more sets Notes: Two types of yarn are jacquard knitted and plated Notes: The two different types of yarn react to different Notes: Complex and intricate patterns are reproduced
to either bring the colour to the front, or hide it inside. dye types, so can be coloured after knitting. by transfer printing.
breakthrough. wales. For example, satin textiles are soft of yarns may be inserted into the secure
Warp knitting is faster than weaving with high lustre; pile is made by breaking knitted structure.
and capable of producing larger widths, the floats during finishing (see napping, Compared to weft knitting, there is
making it more economical. With regard page 216); and nets are constructed by less stress applied to the yarn during
to lace, there is a wider range of design knitting pillars without overlap for one production. Therefore, warp knitting is
opportunities, owing to the different or more courses. used to construct fabrics from relatively
loop structures. Machines fitted with Knitting with two sets of yarn requires less-flexible yarns, such as glass, aramid
independently controlled guide bars two or more guide bars, which provides and carbon.
(jacquard) are capable of producing very greater design freedom. As in weft The surface of warp-knitted fabrics is
complex and intricate patterns similar to knitting, the two needle beds are set up in finished with conventional techniques,
Leavers lace (page 108). a V configuration. Known as raschel, this such as calendering (page 220). Pile Novelty Yarn Diamond Net Spacer Textile
Warp knitting is used to make double- technique is capable of producing double- is made using inserted yarns, or with Material: Wool, nylon and elastane Material: PE Material: PP
Application: Hosiery Application: Fruit packaging Application: Upholstery
faced and spacer textiles, similar to fancy faced, tubular and openwork structures. floating stitches, which are tied into Notes: Novelty yarns are incorporated in the knitted Notes: Plastic strip is knitted together to form strong Notes: A double-faced diamond net structure is held
weaving (page 84). Both technologies are And by adding jacquard (independent the ground structure to form secure structure to create a unique look and feel. and lightweight packaging for fruit and vegetables. together by spacer yarns to produce a cushioning fabric.

used in composite constructions such as guide bars), complex and intricate loops. Cut pile may be made by cutting
laminating and thermoplastic molding patterns may be introduced into the looped pile, or by splitting double-faced
(page 446). structure. Termed raschel jacquard, this fabric to make two cut-pile fabrics. These
is the most versatile form of knitting, but techniques are used to make velvet, velour
Quality because of the complexity of movement it and fake fur.
Thanks to the different number of needle is very challenging to design for. Colour is applied in one of three ways:
beds and guide bar arrangements, a wide Warp knitting is the most versatile knitting coloured yarn, piece dyeing
variety of fabric qualities can be achieved, process for making nets. They can range (page 240) the knitted item, or printing
ranging from stable to high stretch; dense from semi-breakthrough to wide open, (pages 256–79). Setting up warp-knitting
Technical face Technical back Technical face Technical back
to open; smooth to lofty; and single- to depending on the structure. Like other machines is a lengthy process, because
Honeycomb Mesh Pillar Stitch Mesh Pillar Stitch with Textured Inlay
double-faced. warp-knitted structures, they are resistant one or more ends are threaded for each Material: Titanium-coated polyester Material: Polyester Material: Ramie and nylon
The amount of stretch depends on the to slipping, ravelling and runs. Therefore, needle. Therefore, it is more efficient to Application: Apparel lining Application: Technical apparel Application: Bath cloth
Notes: Nanometal-coated meshes are used for Notes: Horizontal underlapping reduces stretch Notes: Pillar stitches are combined with inlaid warp to
stitch and the yarn. Warp-knitted fabrics they are used to produce many types of knit plain-coloured yarn and dye the technical applications, such as heat retention lining. particularly in openwork structures. form a grid. The textured yarn creates a wavy structure.
have varying amounts of lengthwise net, including lightweight packaging, finished garment. By mixing two types
 Case Study

w Warping

In preparation for warp knitting, filament

yarn is wound onto cones. From a creel,
256 ends are gathered together with a
fine comb (image 1). The yarn is coated
with a layer of synthetic oil (natural
yarns are coated with paraffin wax) as it
passes over a roll (image 2). The coating
reduces friction between the yarns and so
improves knitting efficiency.
It takes roughly an hour to fill a beam
(image 3). The northern Italian company
Cifra uses machines with 3 m (9.8 ft)
beds. Six beams are required to cover the
length of the bed (image 4). The double-
bed machines use up to three beams on

warp knitting
either side, so 36 in total.
Each end is carefully threaded through
the machine and into the guide bar
Knit

(image 5). It is a delicate process and

can take several operators half a day or
more to replace the yarns on a machine
148

149
(image 6). Therefore, Cifra warp knits all 1
of its garments in plain white and dyes 4

the finished items if colour is required.

Using two different types of yarn, such
as polyester and nylon, means that two
different colours can be achieved with
dyeing (page 240).

2 3

of yarn that are affected by different Costs Environmental impacts

types of dye, multicoloured patterns Warp knitting is a very rapid process, Like weft knitting, this is an efficient
can be achieved. able to produce hundreds of courses per process and generates very little waste.
minute. It is possible to produce wide Producing garments in a single operation
Materials lengths of fabric or several narrow strips. removes pattern cutting and sewing,
Man-made filament yarns (page 50) are In this way, a single machine may be further reducing or even eliminating
the most commonly utilized, owing to capable of producing several garments waste completely. Warp-knitted spacer
5 6
the high consistency required, although at once, further reducing cycle time. fabrics are used in place of polymer
staple and novelty yarns are also used. The high consistency of yarn required foams, such as polyurethane (PU) in
Frequently used filament yarns include increases costs slightly. cushioning applications.
silk, nylon, polyester, polypropylene (PP), Setting up the machine takes longer The source of yarn is important;
polyethylene (PE), viscose and elastane. than weft knitting if the yarns need to natural yarns should be from sustainable
Technical yarns are warp knitted for be changed, because each needle is sources and processed with consideration
high-performance applications, such as fed with a separate end. Knitting a for people and the environment. The Featured Company
composite-laminated structures. These single colour and piece dyeing finished amount of recycled content in synthetic
Cifra S.p.A.
include carbon, aramid and glass. garments saves time and cost by reducing yarns varies according to the type of
www.cifra-spa.net
machine downtime. plastic and the supplier.
 Case Study

w Seamless Warp Knitting

Seamless garments are produced on raschel behind (image 4). The needle is pulled
jacquard machines. The fabric is made up of downwards, catching the yarns placed in
pillar stitches, underlapped and overlapped front and forming a stitch (image 5). The
with inserted yarn. With this technique, second bed of needles rises up and the
openwork structures are seamlessly sequence is repeated in reverse.
combined with plain fabric to make fitted The process is very rapid: up to 600
garments (image 1). courses are completed every minute and
Plain white yarn, in this case polyester, the knitted item is drawn downwards
is fed from the beams into the guide bars under tension (image 6). The finished
(image 2). These are fine-gauge machines garment emerges from the machine and
with 24 needles per 25.4 mm (1 in.). The more is ready to be dyed (image 7).
needles per inch, the lower the diameter of Garments are checked to make sure
yarn that can be knitted and the higher the the knitting process is running without 1 7 8 9

density of fabric that can be produced. errors (image 8). A long-sleeved t-shirt
Each guide bar moves through three like this comprises around 1,322,000

warp knitting
actions with each stitch. When the needle stitches and a single one out of place
Case Study
has cleared the previous loop the guide bars will show up on the finished product. It
move forwards (image 3). Each guide bar is made oversize to allow for shrinkage w Warp Knitting with Novelty Yarn
Knit

is independently computer-guided. They during dyeing and finishing. The outline

move sideways and pass the yarn around is knitted into the garment and the waste Yarns are inserted for decorative and
a designated needle, either in front or is removed (image 9). functional reasons. In this case, a gold-
150

151
2 metallized yarn is being inserted into
jacquard-knitted hosiery (image 1). The
yarn would be too fragile to knit as part
of the loop structure and so is inserted
into the loops as an additional warp.
The fancy yarn is introduced from
the front on both sides of the machine
(image 2). It is knitted into the fabric
and the finished item is drawn away
3 4 5 under tension (image 3). The areas that 1 2

will be open are visible as long slots.

This is how they are knitted: a needle is
missed out for a given number of courses
and so a window is formed. Once the
fabric has relaxed the openwork structure
is revealed.
On this narrow-bed knitting machine
eight pairs of stockings are knitted
simultaneously (image 4). 4

Featured Company Featured Company

Cifra S.p.A. Cifra S.p.A.

www.cifra-spa.net www.cifra-spa.net
6 3