Hand-Sewing Skills Level

1
Oregon 4-H Clothing Construction Fact Sheets:
Basic Skills—Level 1
4-H 320-13 • October 2014

Hand-sewing skills will be an important part of your sewing projects. Some hand-
sewing stitches are temporary, such as basting. Other stitches are permanent, such
as hemming and decorative stitching.
Learning to choose and use the best hand-sewing method for your fabric and
item requires knowledge and experience. When hand-sewing is done well, the
item or garment will have a final look of quality. Hand-sewing equipment is
simple: needles, thread, scissors, and pins. You may also choose to use a thimble
and beeswax.

Needle
Select a needle that is suitable for your fabric and the type of hand-sewing you
are going to do. The needle should be small enough that it slips easily through the
fabric and does not leave holes unfilled by the thread.
Sharps and embroidery needles (figure 1) are suitable for most hand-sewing.
Longer milliner’s needles are good for basting because more stitches can be
collected on the needle at one time. Betweens are best for the short stitches used Figure 1. (left to right) Sharps,
in hand-tailoring. milliner’s needles, betweens.

Thread
Select thread that is compatible with your fabric type and color (if you are doing
permanent stitching), and the type of hand-sewing you are going to do. For cotton
and wool fabric, use cotton or polyester/cotton thread (figure 2). For man-made
fabric such as acrylic, polyester, and nylon, use polyester/cotton, polyester, or
nylon thread. For silk fabric, use silk thread. Use silk thread for basting because it
does not leave indentations or press marks.
Thread is available in different sizes. Size 100 is an extremely fine thread. Size 70,
60, and 50 are the most common medium sizes. Size 8, heavy-duty cord, and
buttonhole twist are much thicker. The thread color should match or be slightly
darker than the fabric. Figure 2. All-purpose thread.
 Preparation
Cut the thread at an angle to make an end that will be easy to insert in the needle.
Pass the freshly cut end through the needle and knot that same end. This will
maintain the twist and keep the thread smooth. For basting, the knot can be
visible. For permanent stitching, place the knot out of sight against an inside layer
of the fabric.
Figure 3. Running stitch.
Pulling the thread through beeswax will add strength and slipperiness. Do not use
beeswax if the fabric is sensitive to oil stains.

General stitches
Running stitch (figure 3) is a basic stitch used for basting, easing, gathering,
mending, and seams where there will be no strain. Take several stitches forward,
weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. The size of the stitch depends on the
Figure 4. Backstitch.
purpose of the stitching. Use longer stitches for basting and shorter stitches for
permanent sewing.
Backstitching (figure 4) is a basic stitch with several variations. It is a strong
hand-stitch useful for repairing seams and hard-to-reach areas. With the right
sides of the fabric together, bring the needle up through the fabric layers. Insert
the needle about 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3 mm) in back of where it came up, and
bring it out again 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.5 to 3 mm) forward. For each stitch, insert the
Figure 5. Pick stitch. needle at the end of the last stitch and bring it out ahead.
Pick stitch (figure 5) and prick stitch are backstitches with the thread on the
right side carried back only one or two fabric yarns before being inserted into
the fabric. The pick stitch is sewn through only the top layer of fabric to give a
decorative, beadlike effect on the surface. The prick stitch is also a decorative
stitch used mainly for applying zippers from the right side of a garment. Unlike
the pick stitch, the prick stitch passes through all fabric layers.
Overcasting (figure 6) is used to finish raw edges of delicate fabrics to prevent
Figure 6. Overcasting. them from raveling. It was used for all fabrics that ravel before zigzag machines
were available to the home sewer. Take diagonal stiches over the edge at a uniform
space and depth.
Overhand stitch (figure 7) and whipstitch are closer, tighter variations of
overcasting. Both hold two finished edges together. The overhand stitch tends
to be less conspicuous. For the overhand stitch, insert the needle at a diagonal
through the back and front edges so the stitch itself is straight. For the whipstitch,
insert the needle at a right angle so the stitches are slanted.
Figure 7. Overhand stitch.

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Hemming stitches
Hemming stitches are used to secure a garment hem or item edge. Depending on
the item and fabric, choose either a flat or blind hemming technique.
Slip stitch (figure 8) is used for invisible finishing when there is a folded or turned
edge. This stitch can be used for hemming or to close the opening of a pillow or
stuffed toy. To hem, slip the needle through the edge of the fold and then pick Figure 8. Slip stitch.
up a yarn of the under fabric. Space stitches evenly, making sure the thread does
not show or cause an indentation on the right side. To close an opening, slip the
needle through the edge of the fold, alternating sides. Pull the thread taut after
every few stitches to draw the two sides of the opening together.
Hemming stitch (figure 9) is used when the hem is finished with a seam binding.
Take a one- or two-yarn stitch in the garment, and then bring the needle through
the edge of the seam binding. The stitches that pass over the seam binding edge
to the garment may be slanted (quick, but less durable) or vertical (stable, more Figure 9. Hemming stitch.
durable). The stitch should be inconspicuous (not noticeable) from the right side
and not drawn or pulled too tightly.
Blind stitch (figure 10) is inconspicuous from both the right side and the hem
side of a garment. First, finish the raw edge of the hem or facing without folding
it. Then, 1/8 to 1/4 inch (3 to 6 mm) from the hem edge, alternate small, horizontal
stitches between the garment and the hem. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6 mm
to1.3 cm) between stitches. Do not pull stitches tightly. Stitches or indentations
should not be visible from the right side. This stitch permits pressing from the Figure 10. Blind stitch.
right side without the hem edge causing a visible ridge. Use this stitch with non-
stretchy fabric.
Catch stitch (figure 11) is like the blind stitch except it is flexible and suitable for
use with non-raveling, stretchy fabrics. It also permits pressing from the right side
without the hem edge causing a visible ridge. Take the stitch itself in the opposite
direction from the line of needle movement. Work from left to right. Between
the hem and garment, 1/8 to1/4 inch (3 to 6 mm) from the hem edge, take a small
stitch in the hem. Then move diagonally to the right to take the next stitch in the Figure 11. Catch stitch.
garment. Alternate stitching in this zigzag fashion. Keep stitches loose to keep the
hem edge flexible.

Tacks
Tacks are hand-sewing stitches done during marking or construction.
Marking or tailor’s tacks (figure 12) are used to transfer construction details and
matching points from the pattern to the cut section of fabric. Start with a long
length of double, unknotted thread. Take a small stitch on the pattern line through
the pattern and fabric. Pull the needle and thread through, leaving a 1-inch (2.5
cm) thread end. Take similar stitches every 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm), leaving thread
slack in between. Cut the threads and gently pull the pattern off, taking care not
to also pull off the thread markings. You can also loop thread to mark dots and
symbols, but you must cut the loops before you remove the pattern.

Figure 12. Tailor’s tack.

Basic Skills: Hand-Sewing Skills  3

 Bar tack (figure 13) is a reinforcement tack used at points of strain, such as
buttonholes or corners of pockets. Fasten the thread, and bring the needle
through to the right side. Take two or three long stitches—the length the bar tack
needs to be—in the same place. Catching the fabric underneath, make closely
spaced blanket stitches around the thread to cover the long stitches.
Figure 13. Bar tack. French tack (figure 14) is similar to a bar tack. It connects two separate garment
sections, such as the bottom edge of a coat and bottom edge of the lining, while
still allowing each piece to move independently. To make a French tack at the hem
edge, take a small stitch through the top of the garment hem edge and another
small stitch directly across from it in the lining. Leave 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm)
of slack between stitches. Repeat three to four times. Then work closely spaced
Figure 14. French tack. blanket stitches over the threads.

Decorative stitches
There are several decorative stitches. Here are a few common ones for you to learn.
Blanket stitch (figure 15) is often used to cover fabric edges decoratively.
It is traditionally an embroidery stitch, but it can also be used in garment
construction. For the first, and each succeeding stitch, insert the needle through
the fabric from the right side and bring it out at the edge. Keeping thread from the
previous stitch under the point of the needle, draw the needle through, forming
Figure 15. Blanket stitch.
the stitch over the edge.
Buttonhole stitch (figure 16) is used as a decorative stitch at the edge of the fabric
and for hand-worked buttonholes. Work from right to left, with the point of the
needle toward you and the edge of the fabric away from you. Fasten your thread
and bring it out above the edge. Loop thread from the previous stitch to the left,
then down to the right. Insert the needle from the underside, keeping the looped
thread under both point and eye of the needle. Pull the needle out through the
Figure 16. Buttonhole stitch. fabric, then away from you to place the purl of the stich on the fabric’s edge. For a
buttonhole, stitches should be 1/8 inch (3 mm) deep with no space between.
Chain stitch (figure 17) is a continuous series of looped stitches that form a
decorative chain. Work from right to left. Fasten the thread, and bring it to the
right. For each stitch, loop the thread around, insert the needle just behind where
the thread emerges, and bring it up over the looped thread a stitch length in front
Figure 17. Chain stitch. of that point. Pull thread through, to the left, to form the looped stitch.

References
Reader’s Digest. (2005). Complete Guide to Sewing. (2005). Pleasantville, NY:
The Reader’s Digest Association.
By Pamela Rose, 4-H Youth Development specialist, family and consumer science and expressive arts, Oregon State University.
Photos by Pamela Rose, © Oregon State University.
This publication is based on and replaces OSU Extension publication 4-H 92113, Basic Handsewing Skills: 4-H Clothing, Skill Level 1, by Ardis W.
Koester, Extension textiles and clothing specialist emeritus; and Barbara J. Sawer, Extension specialist emeritus, 4-H Youth Development; both of
Oregon State University.
Trade-name products and services are mentioned as illustrations only. This does not mean that the Oregon State University Extension Service
either endorses these products and services or intends to discriminate against products and services not mentioned.
© 2014 Oregon State University.
Extension work is a cooperative program of Oregon State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Oregon counties. Oregon State
University Extension Service offers educational programs, activities, and materials without discrimination based on age, color, disability, gender
identity or expression, genetic information, marital status, national origin, race, religion, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran’s status. Oregon State
University Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity Employer.
Published October 2014.

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