Guinea Pig Care

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Guinea pigs make gentle and loveable pets; however, like any pet, they will be totally dependent on you
for everything they need to be happy and healthy. We ask you to talk about this as a family and discuss
the shared responsibility for their care over their lifetime of 5-8 years. Over time, children may lose
interest in these animals or leave home; if this happens, are you as parents, willing to continue to care
for them? If not, you should reconsider your decision to adopt guinea pigs.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Housing: The larger the cage the less frequently it will need cleaning and the more space will be
available for your guinea pigs to exercise and have fun! We require a minimum of 8 square feet for a
pair of guinea pigs. Our first choice is a Cubes and Coroplast cage of at least 2 cubes by 4 cubes (28” by
56” approximately) to which you can add boxes with doors/wooden houses and tunnels or ramps and
platforms to create an interesting habitat that can be varied over time.

If you own any predatory animals, these cages can be fitted with a Closet-Maid lid for protection (please
ask for details) and you might also wish to place the C & C cage up off the floor on a table or storage
unit. C & C cages with or without lids can be built by you or purchased from the Rescue (go to
www.guineapigcages.com for further information regarding size requirements and more details about
these cages and their possibilities). If we agree with you that a more “traditional” cage is necessary to
keep your guinea pigs safe from larger pets, we will advise you of the current preferred choice.
However, you will need to give the guinea pigs regular supervised exercise time out of this cage in a
playpen (with hay/food/boxes/water bottle and tunnels for their amusement), perhaps one made from
extra cubes and cable ties, in a room away from other animals.

No aquariums or plastic tubs as they have poor ventilation. No wire-floored cages as they are
excruciating for a guinea pig’s sensitive feet.

Location: Guinea pigs should live in a well-ventilated room that is away from drafts, free from sudden
loud noises and that provides natural light. The temperature of the room should range between 65ºF
and 75ºF and if there is direct sunlight, shade must also be provided. The guinea pigs should be in a part
of the house that is frequently inhabited by the whole family and not isolated to, for example, a child’s
bedroom.

Bedding: The best choices for bedding include paper bedding (Carefresh) along with various options for
fleece bedding. There are various online retailers that sell fleece liners that will last for years. A few
examples are:

GuineaDad Liners - #1 Guinea Pig Fleece Cage Liner Bedding | GuineaDad

 Guinea Pig Market: Fleece Bedding, Liners, Cage Accessories, Cozies, Toys, Supplies

Do not use:
• Cedar shavings because they contain toxic oils. (All wood-based bedding contains aromatic
toxins)
• Sawdust because it is too dusty
• Corncob bedding because of mold growth
• Straw because it can injure the guinea pigs’ eyes
• Cat litter because it can kill your guinea pigs if ingested

Cleaning your cage: At least weekly, remove all bedding/hay etc. Clean base with water and a little
vinegar. Rinse and dry. Replace bedding/hay etc. Cleaning a C & C cage will take approximately 30
minutes.

Food: Most pet stores sell guinea pig food that contains unsuitable ingredients; the only pellets we
recommend are the Oxbow Guinea Pig Pellets. For recommended amounts please follow directions on
package. However, please don’t restrict quantity unless guinea pig lives alone; one of your piggies might
eat them all and the other one could get none! Oxbow pellets contain essential ingredients and are low
in fat & salt. They also provide stabilized Vitamin C.

You can purchase pellets on-line from Chewy.com (http://www.Chewy.com* Note: pellets can be frozen
successfully and then thawed out for future use.

Things to watch out for when selecting pellets: No seeds (choking hazard). No dried bits of fruit or corn
syrup (can cause obesity), No colored bits (dyes can be harmful), No rabbit pellets (have no vitamin C &
may contain antibiotics dangerous to guinea pigs), No dairy or meats products (guinea pigs are strictly
herbivores).

Never give salt licks or mineral wheels. These are not healthy for guinea pigs.

Hay: Timothy hay or orchard grass hay is essential for a guinea pig’s good digestion, condition of their
continuously growing teeth and amusement! Guinea pigs must have access to unlimited hay at all times.

Alfalfa hay should not be given as it is too high in protein & calcium causing health problems such as
bladder stones.

We recommend Oxbow hay, or you use a bale of fresh hay from a reputable farm, or farm store. When
buying hay by the bale remember to check that it is in good condition.

What to look for when buying a bale of hay:

• Hay that has a good green color, rather than yellow or brown. (But do not worry about any
slight discoloration on the outside, especially in stacked hay)
• Fine stemmed, leafy and soft to the touch
• Smells good, not moldy or dusty
 • It should be relatively free from weeds/thistles/pests/dirt/trash
• Reject bales that seem excessively heavy for their size or warm to the touch as they may
contain excessive moisture that could cause mold, or even spontaneous combustion (!)
• On opening the bale there should not be any moldy or wet/rotten parts. Sometimes clouds of
mold spores can be released when a bale is opened and the hay itself can seem to be gray and
stuck together in clumps. This moldy hay can make animals very sick and may even be fatal. If
you find this, return the bale to the farm/store and do not use it.
• If possible, hay should be fed within a year of harvest to preserve the nutritional value.
Remember too, that baled hay should be stored in a dry sheltered area out of the rain and sun.
It is important to have a good circulation of air around it, so preferably have it up on blocks of
wood or on a wooden pallet; under no circumstances should it be stored in plastic trash bags
as it will go moldy and become toxic. We also recommend you purchase specialty hay
available in various sizes of bags and boxes as a daily treat for your guinea pigs. Consider either
purchasing this from the Oxbow Hay Company https://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/our-
products/hay/ or Kleenmama’s Hayloft http://www.kmshayloft.com or from your pet store

Accessories:

• Heavy ceramic untippable dish for pellets. (No gravity feeders as the pellets do not remain
fresh)
• 2 gravity fed water bottles16oz each with a spout to be mounted on the side of the cage. We do
not recommend the “sipper-style” water bottles.
• Wooden house with large “window” and door or plain brown cardboard box with more than
one entrance/exit to prevent squabbling.
• Cat carrier for transportation (use with towel in bottom).
• Nail clippers & Styptic powder (to stop bleeding if the nail is cut too short)
• Soft brush for grooming.

DAILY CARE

Vegetables & Fruits: We recommend a routine versus free feeding:

Vegetables: Give your guinea pigs small amounts of fresh vegetables (up to 1 cup daily) to provide
additional Vitamin C and other nutrients. Popular choices include: Romaine lettuce, small pieces of
carrot, tomato, green or red pepper, celery, cucumber.

Fruits: you can give the occasional piece of apple, seedless grape, slice of orange, piece of cantaloupe.
For more details go to https://www.guinealynx.info/diet.html Introduce new vegetables/fruits
gradually. Give plenty of variety.

Other treats: your guinea pigs will appreciate having some clean grass, clover and dandelion as long as it
is free from pesticides. No processed, cooked or canned foods. No Iceberg lettuce, rhubarb, potato, raw
beans, dried beans, nuts or seeds. No Yogurt Drops, they contain dairy which is harmful to guinea pigs.
There are many commercial treats available; most are bad for guinea pigs as they are high in fat and/or
sugar and are best avoided. Why not buy them some specialty hay as a treat instead? There are also a
range of Oxbow treats to choose from.
Hay: Add plenty of fresh hay every day; your guinea pigs will love it!

Water: Change water daily so it is always clean and fresh. Weekly, clean spout with Qtip and use bottle
brush to clean inside bottle.

Vitamin C Supplement: This is a necessary part of every guinea pig’s diet as they require approximately
50 mg of vitamin C daily, which often cannot be provided through diet alone. This can be satisfied by
giving a liquid oral Vitamin C supplement or a high quality chewable supplement. Do not add the vitamin
C to the water, as this promotes bacterial growth and is not a consistent way to dose your pig. Vitamin C
also breaks down quickly when exposed to light. Vegetables high in Vitamin C, such as red, orange and
green bell peppers, can be offered as an additional source of Vitamin C, but are not recommended as
the sole source.

Handling: Guinea pigs can be tricky to pick up; this is the result of being prey animals over thousands of
years living in the wild. Always pick them up carefully. Use a quiet voice and slow movements to keep
them calm. Use one hand to support the chest and the other hand to support the hindquarters. Hold the
guinea pig against your body so it will feel secure. When returning them to the cage, use the “rear-end
first” method to discourage jumping. Never leave the guinea pig on a couch, chair, bed or table; she will
fall off and could be seriously hurt. Guinea pigs will enjoy daily lap time. If your guinea pig is squirmy at
lap time, consider swaddling her in a small towel or blanket. Adults only should take a guinea pig from
her cage and return her afterwards. Children should be supervised at all times and get into the habit of
sitting on the floor with their legs crossed and a towel on their lap which will soak up any “accidents”.
Children need to be reminded to be gentle and avoid poking eyes and not tug on ears.

Practice good hygiene: ~wash hands with soap and water before and after handling pets ~keep cages
and pets away from food preparation areas ~discourage children, especially young children, from kissing
their pets

Playtime: If your guinea pigs already live in Cubes and Coroplast cage they have plenty of space in
which to run around and have fun. You might want to make them an additional playpen using some
extra creative cubes linked with cable ties; you can then give them a change of scene and a variety of
boxes and tunnels to chase about in. You can use an old sheet or some towels for the floor that can then
be shaken off and laundered after use. Bear in mind that guinea pigs will chew on almost anything
including electrical cords!

Outside time-please note that this is not without risks and is not an essential activity. Guinea pigs can
enjoy supervised playtimes outside in an exercise pen as long as: ~ a responsible adult stays with them
the whole time and does not leave them unattended for any reason. ~ air temperature is around 70
degrees (guinea pigs cannot sweat and are susceptible to heat stroke which could kill them) and
humidity is low ~ grass is dry and clean (unpolluted by fecal matter and chemical treatments). Be careful
of birds of prey as they may try to attack your guinea pigs!

Never put your guinea pig in an exercise ball or on an exercise wheel as these are extremely
dangerous for guinea pigs!
HEALTH

We recommend a wellness check with a cavy-knowledgeable veterinarian within a short time of

adopting your guinea pigs. This will enable your vet to become familiar with your guinea pigs and give
you a chance to get to know your vet and ask questions regarding their hours and after hours care. After
the initial check-up, take your guinea pigs for an annual physical examination. Do not wait until you
have a sick guinea pig to find an experienced guinea pig vet! Use the following article to assist you in
finding a competent vet in your area: http://www.cavyinfo.com/html/vet.htm

Be observant and if you see any of the following signs, see your vet immediately:
• Refusal to eat or drink and /or weight loss (hence we recommend you weigh your guinea pigs at
least monthly and keep a record)
• Lethargy/reluctance to move
• Wheezing/displaying effort to breathe Hair loss/excessive scratching/bare patches/scabs
• Limping Loss of coordination
• Labored or noisy breathing
• Eye or nose discharge
• Rough or puffed-up coat
• Diarrhea
• Head tilt
• suddenly develops Blood in urine (or crying/hunching when peeing)

GROOMING

Brushing: Guinea pigs especially long-haired ones, benefit from regular brushing with a soft brush. It
will keep their coat healthy and reduce shedding.

Nail trimming: This is essential and should be done monthly. We can show you how to do this using
small animal nail trimmers and we recommend having Styptic powder available to stop any bleeding,
should you accidentally cut the “quick.” Alternately ask your vet or local pet store.

Bathing: Long haired guinea pigs are more likely to need an occasional bath. Use a rabbit or kitten
shampoo and use a shallow bowl of warm water. Take care to keep the water and soap out of the eyes
and ears. Rinse thoroughly and towel dry; finish off with a hair drier on a warm setting.

For More Information, Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions or concerns.

E-mail: [email protected]

Books:
A Grown-Up’s Guide to Guinea Pigs by Dale Sigler
The Proper Care of Guinea Pigs by Peter Gurney
The Really Useful Guinea Pig Guide by Myra Mahoney

Websites:
General information www.cavyspirit.com
Cages, information, ideas www.guineapigcages.com
Oxbow products & supplies www.oxbowanimalhealth.com
Products & supplies www.chewy.com
Medical & care guide for guinea pigs www.guinealynx.info