Manual NIKE Ingles

NIKE API Manual Module 1 Overview of Apparel Product Integrity
Apparel Product Integrity Manual
© NIKE, Inc. 2003
Revised: July 2003 Page 1

NIKE, Inc.
Apparel Product Integrity
One Bowerman Drive
Beaverton, Oregon 97005-6453
U.S.A.
Tel: 503.671.6453
Fax: 503.671.6300
© 2003 NIKE, Inc.

The holder may not transfer, copy or distribute this material without written
permission from NIKE, Inc.
This confidential material belongs to NIKE, Inc. and must be returned by
the holder upon request.

Module 1: Overview of Apparel Product Integrity
Module 2: Apparel Quality Process Manual
Module 3: Materials Quality Process Manual
Appendices:
Appendix A: Acknowledgement and Continuing

Product Guaranty
Appendix B: Supplier Quality Evaluation (SQE)
Appendix C: Certified Auditor Training Manual
Appendix D: Materials Inspection Manual
Appendix E: SSR Ranking Criteria
Appendix F: VQR Ranking Criteria
Appendix G: Apparel Measurement Manual
Appendix H: Apparel Defect Classification Guide
Appendix I: Material Defect Classification Guide


Module 1:
Overview of Apparel Product Integrity

Preface
Although this manual (this module and the modules that follow) describes NIKE’s
quality requirements, NIKE also expects its partner suppliers to develop a
positive culture of quality.This culture must begin with management
commitment to prevention-based and continuous improvement-based quality
systems including:
• Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are effective

• Encouraging active participation of all workers in improvement efforts
• Ensuring that processes are stable, capable, and centered through the
application of statistical data analysis techniques
• Documenting systems, processes, procedures, etc. as necessary to
maintain effective operations
Introduction
This module (Module 1: Apparel Product Integrity) introduces Apparel Product
Integrity (API), NIKE’s apparel quality organization. It begins by presenting
NIKE’s quality philosophy, and continues by outlining NIKE’s quality system from
design and development to production and delivery.
The modules that follow go deeper into communicating NIKE’s quality processes,
expectations, and requirements. In particular, they outline NIKE’s garment
supplier (“factory”) process expectations, material supplier (“vendor”) process
expectations, product safety requirements, and other major aspects of NIKE’s
quality system.
API’s Mission Statement

“To Make Quality Certain Through Defect Prevention and Variation Reduction.”

NIKE’s Quality Philosophy

The NIKE API organization leads the Product Safety, Quality, and Reliability
efforts for NIKE Apparel. Figure 1 is a functional organizational chart for API.
VP of Apparel
Operations
API Global Director
API Global API Global API Region

Materials Manager Business Analyst Directors
API Hub Directors
API Category Customer Service

LO (Hub & Spoke) Quality Engineering Health & Safety Center (CSC's)
API Managers Managers Manager Managers
LO (Hub & Spoke)

Analysts/Engineers/ Category Quality CSC Flex Auditors/
Auditors Engineers Analysts/Auditors
LO (Hub & Spoke)

Lab Coordinators
Figure 1:
API Functional Org. Chart

NIKE API’s philosophy is based on the following principles:

•Quality Happens within Every Process (each individual,
department, & supplier owns quality)
• Plan for Defect-Free Performance

• Establish Clear, Customer-focused Requirements
• Ensure the Process is Capable of Meeting the Requirements
• Control the Process
• Continually Reduce Variation
• Prioritize by Isolating the ‘Vital Few’ from the ‘Trivial Many’
These principles serve as a compass for NIKE. They represent the fundamental
values we pursue for ourselves, and serve as a basis for selection of and
partnership with our contracted supplier base.
API defines quality as Conformance to Requirements, where our Consumers

and Customers determine the requirements. Our quality standard is Zero
Defects and our goal is Zero Variation from the requirements. Quality effort
must be applied continuously to achieve this standard in all products and
services.Our strategy to achieve Zero Defects with Zero Variation is
Prevention. Prevention means preparation and planning for an activity so it can
be performed without errors or defects, every time, all the time.

Model of API Prevention System

NIKE’s API Prevention System is designed to deliver the safe, reliable, and
quality product that our customers expect of the NIKE brand. This system begins
with product conception and continues through customer satisfaction. The
following (figure 2) is a graphic summary of NIKE’s API Prevention System.
Each box represents a major phase of apparel design, development,
manufacturing, and source selection. Within each box are the processes that
API finds most critical to NIKE’s success at meeting our consumers’ quality
requirements.
Figure 2: API Prevention System Model

Design Qualification
System and procedures where NIKE Quality Engineering team works with
category design/development groups to help identify and prevent failure modes
in product design.
Supplier Qualification
Process of evaluating and approving suppliers to ensure they are capable of
achieving NIKE’s requirements.Includes a review of suppliers’ quality
manufacturing and management systems against NIKE requirements and world-
class benchmarks.
Materials Qualification
Process of testing, evaluating, and approving raw materials to ensure that the
manufacturing process is capable of producing materials that always meet
specifications.
Product Qualification
Process of testing, evaluating, and approving finished garments to ensure the
manufacturing process is capable of producing garments that always meet
specifications.
Vendor Quality Process

Process of managing vendor performance and driving continuous improvement
through evaluation (products & systems), measurement, and reporting.
Factory Quality Process

Process of managing factory performance and driving continuous improvement
through evaluation (product & systems), measurement, and reporting.
Metrics & Strategic Reporting

Process of collecting vendor and factory product quality performance data to
track performance, rank suppliers, and set priorities for corrective action.
Acknowledgement
The acknowledgement form in Appendix A:Acknowledgement and
Continuing Product Guaranty must be reviewed, filled out, and signed by a
representative of senior management from every NIKE supplier. Please return
the completed, signed form to NIKE API.


NIKE API Manual Module 2 Apparel Quality Process Manual
Module 2:
Apparel Quality Process Manual

Introduction
This Apparel Quality Process Manual applies to all suppliers that manufacture
garments for NIKE (this type of supplier is referred to as a “factory”). For
purposes of this manual, a “vertical” supplier (a supplier who produces their own
materials and assembles garments) is both a “vendor” and a “factory”, and is
responsible for all activities required of each, except where noted. This Apparel
Quality Process Manual is organized according to the Apparel Quality Process
portion of the API Prevention System as it applies to garment factories (see
diagram below).
The processes depicted in bold are described

Apparel Quality Process in further detail below. These include:
New Supplier Evaluation

Continuing Product Guaranty
Production Representative Sales
Sample
Qualified Reference Sample (QRS)
Certified Auditor and Materials
Inspector
Process Improvement
Strategic Product Auditing
Factory Ranking
These processes described in the pages that

follow are fundamental to ensuring the
quality of NIKE’s apparel product. Some
NIKE offices/regions may have process
requirements additional to these listed,
which are covered in detail by the regional
API team on the first meeting with a new
supplier after source selection.

Supplier Qualification is a key step
in the API Prevention System, which
involves thorough verification of the
capability of a suppliers’ safety,
quality manufacturing, and management systems against NIKE requirements and
world-class benchmarks.

Purpose:
The purpose of the New Supplier Evaluation is to assess and evaluate a potential
supplier’s commitment to world-class safety, quality, and reliability principles and
to determine the effectiveness of its existing processes. The results of this
evaluation are a key element of NIKE’s decision whether or not to partner with
the supplier.
Process:
The New Supplier Evaluation will be performed by a NIKE API representative(s)
who will contact the supplier to arrange an appointment. The representative(s)
will assess the processes, systems, and philosophies of the supplier’s
organization. Upon completion of the evaluation, the NIKE API representative(s)
will present findings to the supplier. It is expected that this initial assessment will
serve as a starting point for supplier process improvement, and that the supplier
will take feedback from this evaluation and address all major findings.
Although New Supplier Evaluations are intended for new sources, NIKE may
elect to perform an evaluation on current suppliers who have not been previously
evaluated, or whose situation warrants re-evaluation. The evaluation will assess
the supplier’s current processes and provide information that can assist the
supplier in striving to become a world-class supplier. API’s New Supplier
Evaluation criteria are available in Appendix B: Supplier Quality Evaluation
(SQE).
NIKE representatives may also perform separate Manufacturing, and Corporate

Responsibility evaluations in conjunction with API.

Purpose:
The Continuing Product Guaranty is the supplier’s commitment that once NIKE
approves the product for production/shipping, no change in design, processing,
manufacturing location, or materials used in production of the product will occur
without the supplier obtaining prior written approval from NIKE. This guaranty is
necessary to validate the materials and garment manufacturing approvals that
are given as a course of normal business with supplier, and greatly reduces the

possibility of significant product variation and defective product for both NIKE and
the supplier.
Process:
By signing the NIKE Supply Agreement, NIKE suppliers agree to honor the
requirements of the Continuing Product Guaranty (see Appendix A:
Acknowledgement and Continuing Product Guaranty).
Product Qualification
Product Qualification is a key step in the API
Prevention System that involves ensuring, prior
to start of production, the manufacturing
process is capable of making a product that will
always meet requirements.
Production Representative Sales Samples

Purpose:
Production representative sales samples make possible the qualification of
materials, processes, and products in advance of bulk production.
Process:
All suppliers are expected to work to ensure all sales samples are manufactured
using actual planned, approved materials and production methods, with no
substitutions. This production representative product can then be used in further
qualification activities.
Qualified Reference Sample (QRS)

Key Concept:
Purpose: Production Representative
The purpose of the QRS is to demonstrate A key requirement for all qualification activities,
garment manufacturing capability prior to whether process, material, or product, is that the
element being qualified is tested from a production
production start, and to ensure all product representative sampling. In order to be production
requirements will be achieved in full production. representative, the element must be a sample
produced in manufacturing conditions that are truly
An approved QRS physically and aesthetically representative of those which will be used in
defines the average production quality that is planned production:materials, environment,
machinery, process/procedures, and manpower.
expected by and from the supplier, and provides No substitutions that would differ from actual
a reference standard created by and maintained production conditions are acceptable when
qualifying an element.
at the location of manufacture to which all
shipped NIKE product must conform.
Process:
QRS’s are created by the supplier as production representative samples of each
garment style for evaluation and approval against NIKE product requirements.
For every style, each season, at every manufacturing location, there must be a
NIKE approved QRS in place prior to production. For any changes to a qualified
style, or any change in manufacturing location, new QRS’s for the change in

product or manufacturing location must be created. For carry-over styles with no

change in construction, materials, or manufacturing location, a previously created
QRS can be re-qualified as a new QRS. A QRS cannot be approved without the
completion of the size range set.
Size Range Set

Purpose:
The purpose of the Size Range Set (often referred to simply as a “size set”)
is to confirm that all sizes are graded properly prior to the start of
production.
Process:
Size range sets are created by the supplier and include one garment of
each size for the style. The garments will be made with production
representative materials and processes. The garments will be evaluated
against NIKE product specifications and other requirements. A size range
set must be approved for each new style. For carryover styles, no size
range set is required unless there has been a change in specification,
manufacturing location, etc.
Factory Quality Process

NIKE requires its suppliers to participate in
processes created by NIKE and designed to ensure
specific manufacturing best practices. Additionally,
NIKE requires that its suppliers develop their own
internal processes which will ensure control and
continuous improvement of all systems involved in
the development, production, and handling of
materials & product.
Certified Auditor
Purpose:
The purpose of the NIKE Auditor Certification process is to ensure that factories
have adequate knowledge of NIKE’s product quality standards and audit
procedures. Once certified, the NIKE Certified Auditor is an expert on NIKE
product requirements and will be able to assist the supplier with defect and
variation reduction efforts.
Process:
API will certify one or more qualified factory personnel on NIKE’s product quality
requirements, audit method, and quality philosophy.

The NIKE Certified Auditor’s responsibilities include using his/her knowledge of

NIKE product requirements to:
• Help the supplier’s continuous improvement efforts
• Help the supplier determine product disposition (A, B, or C-grade)
• Evaluate size sets before submission
• Evaluate QRS’s before submission
• Train other factory personnel and develop an organization wide
understanding of NIKE product requirements
Perform final audits on every purchase order (PO)
•
The NIKE Auditor Certification process is detailed in Appendix C: Certified
Auditor Training Manual.
Certified Materials Inspector

Purpose:
The purpose of the NIKE Materials Inspector Certification process is to enable
factories to conduct inspections of incoming raw materials according to NIKE
inspection methods. NIKE materials inspections are carried out by supplier
personnel trained and certified by API to understand NIKE’s quality philosophy
and use NIKE’s materials quality standards and inspection procedures.
Process:
API will certify one or more qualified supplier personnel on NIKE’s product quality
requirements, audit method, and quality philosophy.
The NIKE Certified Materials Inspector’s responsibilities include using his/her
knowledge of NIKE materials requirements to:
• Help the supplier’s continuous improvement efforts
• Advise factory on materials issues
• Perform receipt inspections of every lot received from vendors
• Report materials quality performance
The NIKE Materials Inspector Certification process is detailed in Appendix D:

Materials Inspector Certification Manual.
Process Improvement
Purpose:
The purpose of a Process Improvement system is for NIKE and its suppliers to
continuously identify, analyze, and plan to achieve improved performance via the
use of prevention-based quality activities.
Process:
NIKE expects its suppliers to maintain a robust system of Process Improvement.
This system should monitor quality metrics over the long-term and drive
continuous improvement of supplier processes. It should detect and react to
negative trends in internal quality metrics and drive prevention of defects.

Central to process improvement is the identification and correction of the root

cause (rather than the symptom) of sources of excessive variation.
Three major aspects of NIKE’s supplier Process Improvement system include:
• Supplier performance review and goal setting (the Semi-Annual Review)
• Preventive planning for improvement (Preventive Action)
• Reacting to eliminate known problems (Corrective Action)
These topics are discussed below.

Process Improvement – Semi-Annual Review
Purpose:
The purpose of the Semi-Annual Review is to provide a regularly scheduled
forum to formally manage supplier performance and plan for continuous
improvement.
Process:
Two times per year NIKE API and each supplier will conduct a formal
meeting to review the supplier’s performance. This meeting will typically
involve representatives from supplier senior management, the supplier’s
quality group, NIKE API, and NIKE production/merchandising.
The core agenda of the Semi-Annual Review meeting includes:

• Critical review of supplier’s performance compared to past goals
and NIKE requirements
• Presentations by supplier of internal quality metrics, trends, and
process improvement activities
Follow-up on open corrective action plans or other current quality
•
issues at the supplier
Introduction of new NIKE quality initiatives
• Establishment of supplier’s future performance goals
•
Process Improvement – Preventive Action

Purpose:
The purpose of Preventive Action is to proactively improve suppliers’ critical
processes in order to achieve performance goals. Preventive Action should
identify areas of improvement that will provide maximum value and should
formally plan how to systematically improve these areas.
Process:
Effective preventive action must include the following elements:
• Supplier top level commitment to continuous improvement
• Set/review/update organizational goals as a fundamental
business process
• Measure key processes (averages, variation, trends, etc.)
• Analyze process data and prioritize improvement activities

Process Improvement – Corrective Action

Purpose:
The purpose of Corrective Action is to systematically and permanently
eliminate an identified problem from a
process.Key Concept:
Action Plan
Process:
All action plans should have certain properties in
NIKE expects each supplier to have an common. They should include:
effective Corrective Action system.The - Documentation of all aspects and results of plan
- Clear statement and quantification of problem
output of a Corrective Action is a successfully - Identification of root cause of problem
executed action plan.A supplier’s internal - Statement of timelines and responsibilities
- Realistic and maintainable proposed actions
Corrective Action system should resolve - Elimination/Prevention of recurrence of problem
quality issues before they become visible to - Appropriateness to magnitude of problem and
risk of recurrent failure
NIKE. - Support by management
- Measurement of effectiveness of corrective
action
Corrective Action may be either internally or
externally initiated:
• Internally initiated – Corrective Action initiated by suppliers internal
detection process under the following conditions:
A significant increase in internally measured defective
rate
Any critical process or product failure detected by the
supplier
The supplier is ranked in C status by NIKE (see
Metrics and Strategic Reporting – Factory Ranking
below)
• Externally initiated – Corrective Action initiated due to NIKE or NIKE

customer-detected failure under the following conditions:
The supplier is ranked in Alert status by NIKE (see
Metrics and Strategic Reporting – Factory Ranking
below)
Any critical process or product failure detected by NIKE
Metrics and Strategic Reporting

The following describes how NIKE
strategically collects data to measure
andreportsupplierquality
performance.This information is
used by API to provide supplier feedback for quality recognition and process
improvement, as well as by NIKE sourcing in determining future sourcing plans.


Purpose:
To effectively measure supplier process defective rate, NIKE employs a Strategic
Audit Plan (SAP). The SAP ensures factory rankings are statistically valid and
accurate.
Process:
The SAP requires NIKE to collect a minimum amount of data spread over an
adequate number of audits and styles. To accomplish this, NIKE SAP audits
employ a fixed sample size of 32 pieces per purchase order (PO) audited. In
order to achieve confidence in ranking, NIKE requires the accumulation of 250 to
500 pieces audited within every 3-month ranking period. The number of PO’s
and diversity of product audited ensure that the defective rates measured are
statistically significant and representative of supplier true performance. SAP
audits are performed only on finished, packed product. NIKE API performs all
SAP audits (audits used for the purpose of supplier ranking) at NIKE distribution
centers or supplier locations.
Factory Ranking
Purpose:
API ranks NIKE factories based on measured garment defective rates, in order to
indicate each factory’s contribution to NIKE’s global quality goals and prioritize
NIKE actions.
Process:
API uses defective rates from SAP audits to rank suppliers on the Supplier
Status Report (SSR). The SSR is regularly reported to NIKE categories,
sourcing groups, and senior management in order to affect sourcing decisions.
API also uses factory defective percentages and rankings to prioritize its
continuous improvement efforts.
The criteria by which suppliers are ranked (the SSR ranking criteria) are
periodically tightened as the performance of NIKE’s global supplier base
improves. The current SSR ranking criteria are detailed in Appendix E: SSR
Ranking Criteria.


NIKE API Manual Module 3 Materials Quality Process Manual
Module 3:
Materials Quality Process Manual

Introduction:
This Materials Quality Process Manual applies to each supplier that
manufactures materials for use in NIKE garments (this type of supplier is to as a
“vendor”). For purposes of this manual, a “vertical” supplier (a supplier who
produces their own materials and assembles garments) is both a “vendor” and a
“factory” (garment supplier), and is responsible for all activities required of each,
except where noted. The Materials Quality Process (MQP) Manual is
organized according to the API Prevention System as it applies to materials
suppliers (see diagram below).
Materials Quality Process The processes depicted in bold are described

in further detail below. These include:
Production Representative Sample
Confirmed Specifications
Production Materials Testing and
Inspection
Process Improvement
Vendor Ranking
These processes described in the pages that

follow are fundamental to ensuring the quality
of NIKE’s apparel product.Some NIKE
offices/regionsmayhaveprocess
requirements additional to these listed, which
are covered in detail by the regional API team
on the first meeting with a new supplier after
source selection.

Supplier Qualification is a key
component of the API Prevention
System, which involves thorough
verification of capability of a
suppliers’ safety, quality manufacturing, and management systems against NIKE
requirements and world-class benchmarks.

Purpose:
The purpose of the New Supplier Evaluation is to assess and evaluate a potential
new supplier’s commitment to world-class safety, quality, and reliability principles
and to determine the effectiveness of its existing processes. The results of this
evaluation are a key element of NIKE’s decision whether or not to partner with
the supplier.
Process:
The New Supplier Evaluation will be performed by a NIKE API representative(s)
who will contact the supplier to arrange an appointment. The representative(s)
will assess the processes, systems, and philosophies of the supplier’s
organization. Upon completion of the evaluation, the NIKE API representative(s)
will present findings to the supplier. It is expected that this initial assessment will
serve as a starting point for supplier process improvement, and that the supplier
will take feedback from this evaluation and address all major findings.
Although the New Supplier Evaluation is intended for new sources, NIKE may
elect to perform an evaluation on current suppliers who have not been previously
evaluated, or whose situation warrants re-evaluation. The evaluation will assess
the supplier’s current processes and provide information that can assist the
supplier in striving to become a world-class supplier. API’s New Supplier
Evaluation criteria are available in Appendix B: Supplier Quality Evaluation
(SQE).
NIKE representatives may also perform separate Manufacturing, and Corporate

Responsibility evaluations in conjunction with API.

Purpose:
The Continuing Product Guaranty is the supplier’s commitment that once NIKE
approves the product for production/shipping, no change in design, processing,
manufacturing location, or materials used in production of the product will occur
without the supplier obtaining prior written approval from NIKE. This guaranty is
necessary to validate the materials and garment manufacturing approvals that
are given as a course of normal business with a supplier, and greatly reduces the

possibility of significant product variation and defective product for both NIKE and
the supplier.
Process:
All vendors are required to sign and honor the requirements of the Continuing
Product Guaranty. The Continuing Product Guaranty is included in Appendix A:
Acknowledgement and Continuing Product Guaranty.
Material Qualification
Material Qualification is a key step in the API
Prevention System where, prior to start of production,
the manufacturing
process is proven
Key Concept:
capable of making
Process Capability
materials that will
process satisfies design/engineering specifications. A
ProcessisCapability
system said to berefers to how
“capable” if itwell a manufacturingalways
is producing meet requirements.
approximately 100% within specification limits.
The goal of Materials Qualification is to
ensure that materials are proven capable of
Process capability is most commonly measured in meeting specifications.
terms of capability indices, notably Cpk. Cpk answers
the questions: “How good is the alignment of the
manufacturing process to the critical specifications?” General guidelines for minimum Cpk values
and “How much defective output can be expected?” are outlined below:
Capability indices should be measured and used for all
key processes to understand the current process
limitations and plan/prioritize improvement efforts General Specification: >1.00
where they are most needed. Critical Performance Specification: >1.33
Production Representative Sample

Purpose:
The purpose of requiring production representative samples is to ensure that any
sample presented to determine the qualification or approval status of a material
is representative of future bulk production.
Process:
Key Concept:
Production Representative For any testing or evaluation of a material for
the purpose of establishing material
A key requirement for all Qualification activities,
whether Process, Material, or Product, is that the
approval/qualification submitted samples
element being qualified is tested from a production must be production representative.
representative sampling. In order to be production
representative, the element must represent a sample
from manufacturing conditions that are truly
representative of those which will be used in planned
production:Materials, Environment, Machinery,
Process/Procedures, and Manpower. No substitutions
that would differ from actual production conditions are
acceptable when qualifying an element.

Confirmed Specifications
Purpose:
The purpose of Confirmed Specifications is to ensure that, as the final step of
material qualification, both the vendor and NIKE agree that the specifications and
requirements relating to each material accurately reflect the performance
expected in production.
Process:
Upon material qualification, NIKE and the vendor must confirm commitment to
the final material specifications. The confirmed specifications become the
standard against which all product is evaluated (including Production Materials
Testing).
Vendor Quality Process

NIKE requires its suppliers to participate in
processes created by NIKE and designed to ensure
specific manufacturing best practices. Additionally,
NIKE requires that its suppliers develop their own
internal processes which will ensure control and
continuous improvement of all systems involved in
the development, production, and handling of
materials & product.
Production Materials Testing and Inspection

Purpose:
Production materials testing and inspection provides feedback for use in pursuing
continuous improvement of the materials that make up NIKE product.
Process:
The following text outlines some of NIKE’s requirements for testing and
inspection of vendor materials.
Production Materials Testing
Purpose:
Testing of production materials provides information on vendor
performance, and measures their conformance to NIKE materials
requirements. Some testing is also required to control the release of certain
materials based on critical specifications.
Process:
Prior to release of any materials, NIKE expects all vendors to perform
internal materials testing according to NIKE test methods and requirements.
Third party testing of materials is also required, as outlined below:

• NEW MATERIALS & COLORS PRODUCTION TESTING

Purpose:
NIKE requires 3rd party lab testing of vendor production materials in
order to measure conformance to requirements over the long term.
Process:
All NIKE vendors must submit samples of their production fabric for
3rd party lab testing and evaluation according to the following:
o Sample taken from first production lot

o All new materials in all colors
o All carry-over material in new colors
o Sample must be 2 linear yards
These samples will undergo color evaluation and physical testing,

per NIKE test methods, at the supplier’s expense.
Vendors may ship based on internal testing, without waiting for 3rd
party testing results.
Vendors who achieve an “A” ranking may be eligible for reduced 3rd
party lab sampling for new material/color testing (see Appendix F:
VQR Ranking Criteria).
• PHENOLIC YELLOWING PREVENTION (WHITE MATERIALS)

Purpose:
Phenolic Yellowing is a discoloration of white or light-colored fabrics
due to the presence of specific chemical compounds. NIKE has set
requirements on finished fabric pH in order to control the occurrence
of phenolic yellowing.
Process:
Vendors are expected to maintain processes and controls necessary
to ensure finished materials pH that meet NIKE requirements.
Every season, vendors must submit (to NIKE designated 3rd party
labs) a sample of the first production lot of each white material.
These samples will be tested for pH (5.5 +/- 1.0) at the supplier’s
expense. This testing represents seasonal qualification of the output
of the production process used to create the white material.
Acceptable 3rd party lab test results must be achieved before that
white material can be released for use in garment production.
Once acceptable test results have been achieved, supplier must

manufacture all production lots of the white material with the same
processing steps and settings as used to produce the sample that
passed testing. NIKE expects all vendors to verify, before release,
every subsequent lot of white material via process control and
internal testing.

• ADDITIONAL TESTING
NIKE may require additional testing in order to meet regional
requirements or other specific needs.
Production Materials Inspection

Purpose:
NIKE expects all of its vendors to have processes that ensure they
manufacture and ship only first quality materials.Internal material
inspection allows the vendor to use inspection data to drive process
improvement efforts, screen for major non-conformances in materials,
measure conformance to NIKE materials requirements, and communicate to
factory customers the quality level of their shipment.
Process:
Vendors must internally maintain a 12”x12” reference sample of all NIKE
materials/colors produced, along with physical testing results and
spectrophotometric color evaluation results as necessary.
Vendors must provide the following to every factory using their materials:
• A fabric sample, from the first production lot, (meeting NIKE
requirements for color, hand-feel, etc.) to reference during later
factory material inspections
• Copies of internal performance testing and internal inspection
results for every lot, included with the shipment of the lot
Spectrophotometer readings in accordance with NIKE
• production color requirements
Factories will inspect all incoming materials lots according to NIKE

requirements, as outlined in Appendix D: Materials Inspection Manual.
Factories’ Certified Materials Inspectors will report materials inspection
results to NIKE.
Process Improvement
Purpose:
The purpose of a Process Improvement system is for NIKE and its suppliers to
continuously identify, analyze, and plan to achieve improved performance via the
use of prevention-based quality activities.
Process:
NIKE expects its suppliers to maintain a robust system of Process Improvement.
This system should monitor quality metrics over the long-term and drive
continuous improvement of supplier processes. It should detect and react to
negative trends in internal quality metrics and drive prevention of defects.
Central to process improvement is the identification and correction of the root
cause (rather than the symptom) of sources of excessive variation.

Three major aspects of NIKE’s supplier Process Improvement system include:

• Supplier performance review and goal setting (the Semi-Annual Review)
• Preventive planning for improvement (Preventive Action)
• Reacting to eliminate known problems (Corrective Action)
These topics are discussed below.

Process Improvement – Semi-Annual Review
Purpose:
The purpose of the Semi-Annual Review is to provide a regularly scheduled
forum to formally manage supplier performance and plan for continuous
improvement.
Process:
Two times per year NIKE API and each supplier will conduct a formal
meeting to review the supplier’s performance. This meeting will typically
involve representatives from supplier senior management, the supplier’s
quality group, NIKE API, and NIKE production/merchandising.
The core agenda of the Semi-Annual Review meeting includes:

• Critical review of supplier’s performance compared to past goals
and NIKE requirements
• Presentations by supplier of internal quality metrics, trends, and
process improvement activities
Follow-up on open corrective action plans or other current quality
•
issues at the supplier
Introduction of new NIKE quality initiatives
• Establishment of supplier’s future performance goals
•
Process Improvement – Preventive Action

Purpose:
The purpose of Preventive Action is to proactively improve suppliers’ critical
processes in order to achieve performance goals. Preventive Action should
identify areas of improvement that will provide maximum value and should
formally plan how to systematically improve these areas.
Process:
Effective preventive action must include the following elements:
• Supplier top level commitment to continuous improvement
• Set/review/update organizational goals as a fundamental
business process
• Measure key processes (averages, variation, trends, etc.)
• Analyze process data and prioritize improvement activities

Process Improvement – Corrective Action

Purpose:
The purpose of Corrective Action is to systematically and permanently
eliminate an identified problem from a
process.Key Concept:
Action Plan
Process:
All action plans should have certain properties in
NIKE expects each supplier to have an common. They should include:
effective Corrective Action system.The - Documentation of all aspects and results of plan
- Clear statement and quantification of problem
output of a Corrective Action is a successfully - Identification of root cause of problem
executed action plan. A supplier’s internal - Statement of timelines and responsibilities
- Realistic and maintainable proposed actions
Corrective Action system should resolve - Elimination/Prevention of recurrence of problem
quality issues before they become visible to - Appropriate to magnitude of problem and risk of
recurrent failure
NIKE. - Supported by management
- Measurement of effectiveness of corrective
action
Corrective Action may be either internally or
externally initiated:
• Internally initiated – Corrective Action initiated by suppliers internal
detection process under the following conditions:
A significant increase in internally measured defective
rate
Any critical process or product failure detected by the
supplier
Supplier not in NIKE test rank 1 or 2 (see Appendix F:
VQR Ranking Criteria)
• Externally initiated – Corrective Action initiated due to NIKE or NIKE

customer-detected failure under the following conditions:
Any critical process or product failure detected by NIKE
Supplier in NIKE test rank Alert (see Appendix F:
VQR Ranking Criteria)
Metrics and Strategic Reporting

The following describes how NIKE
strategically collects data to measure
andreportsupplierquality
performance. This information is
used by API to provide supplier feedback for quality recognition and process
improvement, as well as by NIKE sourcing in determining future sourcing plans.

Purpose:
To effectively measure vendor material quality performance, NIKE uses data
collected by a combination of 2nd and 3rd party sources.

Process:
Vendor material quality performance is divided into two primary areas.
• Materials inspection performance: NIKE requires garment factories to
inspect and report to NIKE on all incoming materials lots (see Module 2:
Apparel Quality Process Manual, Certified Materials Inspector).
• Materials production testing performance: NIKE requires vendors to

submit a sample from the first lot of production materials for 3rd party lab
testing (see Production Materials Testing and Inspection, above).
NIKE uses the information gathered from these sources to evaluate and report
on vendor material performance.
Vendor Ranking
Purpose:
API ranks NIKE vendors based on 3rd party lab testing and inspection results, in
order to indicate each vendor’s contribution to NIKE’s global quality goals and
prioritize NIKE actions.
Process:
NIKE ranks vendor performance in two primary materials performance areas:
• Inspection Rank: determined by the Material Inspection Reject Rate of
materials shipments inspected by garment factories
• Test Rank: determined by the Production Submit Reject Rate of vendor

production submits evaluated at NIKE 3rd party lab testing lab
These ranks are used to rate suppliers on the Vendor Quality Report (VQR). The
VQR is regularly reported to NIKE categories, sourcing groups, and senior
management in order to affect sourcing decisions. API also uses vendor quality
performance to prioritize its continuous improvement efforts.
The criteria by which suppliers are ranked (the VQR ranking criteria) are
periodically tightened as the performance of NIKE’s global supplier base
improves. The current VQR Ranking Criteria is detailed in Appendix F: VQR
Ranking Criteria.

Apparel Product Integrity Manual - Appendix A
Acknowledgement
and
These modules, which make up the Apparel Product Integrity (API) Quality Manual, have been
established by NIKE API to communicate to our Suppliers NIKE’s quality standards and
expectations.
After your review, please mark which modules you have received and reviewed, sign and date
this page and return it to your local NIKE API representative.By returning this
acknowledgement, you declare that you have received the manual and that you understand
NIKE’s standards and expectations regarding manufacturing consistent, high quality NIKE
product.
This signed acknowledgement is also your commitment and guaranty that once NIKE approves
the product for production/shipping, no change in design, processing, manufacturing location,
or materials used in production of the product will occur without your obtaining prior
written approval from NIKE.
This guaranty is a continuing guaranty that applies to all products and shipments shipped to or on
behalf of NIKE by this company or any of its subsidiaries or other associated companies.
Module 1: Introduction Please mark, to the left, each module that you have
received. Please copy this sheet and keep for your
Module 2: Apparel Quality Manual
records, then return the signed original to your NIKE
Module 3: Materials Quality Manual API representative.
Module 4: Product Safety Manual
Indicate which modules you have by checking the
appropriate boxes, above.
__________________________
Date
______________________________ ______________________________
Supplier Name Supplier Address
______________________________ ______________________________
Signature Signature
Supplier Designated Official NIKE Representative
This NIKE API Quality Manual is the confidential property of NIKE, Inc., and
is not to be copied or reproduced without the written consent of NIKE API.
Apparel Product Integrity Manual - Appendix B
Supplier:
Contact Name:
Date:
SUPPLIER EVALUATION FORM - SEWING & BLANKS
1.0 MANAGEMENT COMMITMENT Y N
1.1 Has the concept of zero defects/errors been adopted and supported by management?
1.2 Does the Quality Manager/Director report to Senior Management?
1.3 Does the quality function have authority to prevent nonconforming product from being manufactured or shipped?
1.4 Does management review the effectiveness of the quality system by using planned system audits?
2.0 PREVENTION SYSTEMS & EFFECTIVENESS OF CONTROLS Y N
2.1 Is there a quality manual?
2.2 Is there a system for updating quality procedures and notifying personnel of updates?
2.3 Have the quality system responsibilities been documented?
2.4 Do procedures exist for identifying and conducting quality training for all employees?
2.5 Are design changes and specification changes reviewed, approved and controlled?
2.6 Are there “real time” process control systems and/or other process qualification systems used to allow adjustment of processes to prevent the
manufacture of nonconforming product? (Precontrol, Positrol, First Piece Inspection, SPC, etc.)
2.7 Are Process Capability studies documented and are Cpk values measured?
2.8 Is there a clear procedure for the identification, handling, and disposition of nonconforming product?
2.9 Is there an internal system for the selection and qualification of suppliers?
2.10 Are approved reference standards maintained at all appropriate locations? (Ex. Receiving inspection, Final Inspection, Design, Engineering)
3.0 QUALITY SYSTEMS – APPRAISAL Y N
3.1 Are there written / visual standards for defects?
3.2 Are statistical audits of incoming materials conducted?
3.3 Is there a system in place to control shading? (Ex. run cards, light box, etc.)
3.4 Are there criteria for rejection of goods?
3.5 Are statistical audits or process control of cut work conducted?
3.6 Are all kits checked against standard prior to processing?
3.7 Are all Rejects re-inspected after repair?
3.8 Are there dedicated Final Auditors?
3.9 Is there a dedicated QA workstation?
3.10 Is there a system to conduct statistical audits to ensure that all lots / PO’s pass the final audit before shipment?
4.0 CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT Y N
4.1 Are there systems in place to monitor trends?
4.2 Is root cause determined and prevention based corrective action initiated when an unsatisfactory trend is indicated?
4.3 Is there a formal corrective action system to prevent recurrence of any major nonconformance?
4.4 Are there currently goals or incentives for all employees to improve quality, delivery, efficiency, and to seek innovations?
5.0 HOUSEKEEPING & MAINTENANCE Y N
5.1 Is there clean, orderly, and secure storage of materials?
5.2 Is there clean, orderly, and secure storage of finished goods?
5.3 Are there clean, orderly, and well-lit workstations?
5.4 Is there a documented system for calibration of test and production equipment?
5.5 Is a documented preventive maintenance schedule adhered to for production equipment?

Certified Auditor Training Manual
© NIKE, Inc. 1999

Nike, Inc.
Corporate Headquarters
One Bowerman Drive
U.S.A.
Tel: 503.671.6453
Fax: 503.671.6300
© 1999 Nike, Inc.

This confidential material belongs to NIKE, Inc. and must be returned by

the holder upon request.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Purpose ......................................................................................................... A3.1
Audit Preparation
Audit Equipment .......................................................................................... A3.3
Audit Work Area ........................................................................................... A3.5
Audit Procedure
Selecting the Sample .................................................................................... A3.7
MIL STD 105E Table ................................................................................... A3.7
Checking Packaging and Labelling ............................................................. A3.8
Checking Style Details ................................................................................. A3.11
Checking Measurements .............................................................................. A3.11
Inspection Methods
General Notes ............................................................................................... A3.13
Knit and Woven Tops Inspection ................................................................. A3.14
Jackets Inspection ......................................................................................... A3.19
Bottom Inspection, Pants ............................................................................. A3.25
Bottom Inspection, Shorts ............................................................................ A3.29
Bodywear Inspection .................................................................................... A3.33
Socks Inspection ........................................................................................... A3.37
Caps Inspection ............................................................................................ A3.41
Audit Results
...................................................................................................................... A3.43
Introduction
The purpose of the NIKE Certified Auditor Training Manual is to:
• Communicate NIKE’s quality expectations to suppliers.

• Provide a guideline to the factory for evaluating the quality of finished
garments.
• Provide a training framework for factory auditors.
May 1999 Certified Auditor Training Manual A3.1

Audit Preparation
Audit Equipment
What is required?
NIKE information:
NIKETYUALI
EL QRAPPA ANUALM
Audit Information:
ARD 105E-2.5 AQL
ANDMILITARY ST
n Level I
General Inspectio
Normal
Sample
Size Accept Reject
Lot Size
1
rlands B.V.7Marathon
tions Nethe
ean Opera
NIKE Europ
sum1213 PD HilverrlandsThe Nethe00)35 62663Fax +31(0
ORT
PAUDIT RE Tel +31(0)35
6266453/
0152
NO
NUMBER:
REPORT
URER:
MANUFACT
DATE:
INSPECTION CTOR:
UBCONTRA
FACTORY/S
CODECOUNTRY:
G OFFICSOURCINE:
AUDIT TY PE:
NO
TION:CSC LOCA YES
AUDITED:
POENRTIRE
E:OR LOT SIZ

PO
Style Information:
of
Page
96 - FallETBALLAM BACKSeasonTMEN’S TENK PRINoryPLICA

TACatogCSP RENameGraphicot Printhic SpGrapType ofFront----
10/16/95 Location637.torage No
Date 10/16/95RevisionNKOCA TAES REPL
139190
Style # 107822
**---- ******
tal #Expermen ETSPECSHE
OGCSP LIM
meStyle Na 12278 OPEANNIKE EUR
IM#Gr phic *******
m
Bill of Materials, Graphic Information Sheets,

Specification Sheets, Purchase Order.
edApprov ce
ReferenleSamp
ceReferen
pleSam
Approved Garment Reference Fabric Reference Sample - fabrics,

Sample. trims, prints, embroideries, color, etc.

Audit Equipment continued
Tools
Steel or reinforced fiberglass 1/4” tape measure (cloth not recommended).
Box Knife
Defect stickers
A3.4 Certified Auditor Training Manual May 1999

Audit Work Area
The work area should be well organized at all times.

Environment - clean, dry, and quiet
Table
Overhead cool white florescent

(CWF) lighting is recommended.
Illumination should be a minimum of
1075 lux (100 foot candles).
Acceptable working
temperature
Adjustable table height
Cushioned floor mat
175 cm / 70"
90 cm / 36"
A-GRADE B/C-GRADE

Audit Procedure
Selecting the Sample
1. Select the lot or the purchase order to be audited.

2. Determine the audit sample size using the MIL STD 105E, single sampling
plan for normal inspection. See table below.
Note: Pre-packs should be broken into individual articles for determining

lot size.
3. Set accept / reject level. See table below.

4. Randomly Select cartons across colors and sizes.
Minimum: All colorways across the sizes.
Preferred: Every colorway in every size.
5. Complete the pre-audit information on the audit form, e.g. purchase order
number and style information.
6. Fill in the size specifications and tolerance details on the measurement form.
You are now ready to perform your inspection.
MIL STD 105E / ANSI/ASQC Standard Z1.4-1993
Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection
Acceptable Quality Levels

(normal inspection)
PO or Lot Sample 1.0 1.5 2.5

Size Size Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
2-8 2
9 - 15 3
16 - 25 5
26 - 50 8 0 1
51 - 90 13 0 1
0 1
91 - 150 20 0 1 0 1
0 1 1 2
151 -280 32 0 1
0 1 2 3
281 - 500 50 1 2
0 1 3 4
501 - 1,200 80 2 3
1 2 5 6
1,201 - 3,200 125 3 4
2 3 7 8
3,201 - 10,000 200 5 6
3 4 10 11
10,001 and over 315 7 8
5 6 14 15
7 8 10 11

Checking Packaging and Labelling
Refer to the Supplier Manual and check:

• size and quality of the carton.
• position of the labels.
Carton Must be:
Properly sealed with security tape

Carton Must NOT be:
Damaged Over packed Under packed
MAXIMUM
M
401 lbs or
184 kg
Weigh more than 40 lbs/18 Kg Strapped
“NIKE” must not be written anywhere on the carton or labels.

Checking Packaging and labelling
Carton Labels
Check the labels against the Purchase Order information:
• Style / Color • UPC sticker

• Size • Country of Origin
• •
Purchase Order number Final Destination (Address only)
• •
Quantity Carton number
Carton Contents
Open carton and check to see that the contents are correct,
including style / color, size, UPC sticker, carton count, etc.

Checking Packaging and Labeling
Polybag
Polybag must have a suffocation warning and a recycle symbol.
Suffocation warning and recycle symbol
Polybag must be the correct size for the folded article.
Polybag correct size Polybag, size too small Polybag, size too big
Check one carton per SKU (Style, Size, Color).

Note any discrepancies or defects on the Audit Form.

Checking Style Details
One article per colorway must be checked against the approved garment
reference
sample, the specification, the Bill Of materials (BOM), and the fabric reference
sample.
• Place the article on the table.

• Take the approved garment reference sample together with any comments
and compare with this article.
• Take the most up to date BOM. Check that the article has all of the item
numbers listed.
• Check that the size stated on the UPC stickers (on packaging and hangtag) is
the same as on the neck label - if present.
• Take the most up to date specification. Check that the construction/style

details are correct.
• Take the Graphic Information Sheets (GIS) for screen prints, embroideries,
badges, etc. Check that the details are correct. Refer to the approved
garment
reference sample, the fabric reference sample, and any comments.
• Take the fabric reference sample and check that all colors are correct.
If there are any discrepancies, discontinue the audit until resolved.
Checking Measurements
Measure at least 3 garments in each size per P.O.

For one article - measure all dimensions on the specification.
For an additional two articles - measure only the critical dimensions on the
specification. Critical dimensions are denoted with the ^ symbol.
• Pull samples evenly across the colors and sizes available.

• Record the actual measurement on the measurement worksheet.
•
Compare the actual measurement to the specification measurement.
•
A measurement that falls outside the tolerance specified should be
highlighted
by circling the actual measurement.

Inspection Methods
General Notes
Inspect articles in a clockwise direction.

All references to Right and Left are AS WORN and not as viewed.
Examine all seams by applying firm, consistent tension to either side of the seam.
A-Grade B/C-Grade
All major defects should be marked with a sticker and placed to one side.
• If an article has one major defect on it, it becomes a reject.

After one major defect has been found the inspection of that article should be
discontinued.
• The audit must be completed even if the reject number of defects is reached.

Knit and Woven Tops Inspection
Pick up by shoulder points.

Check appearance and presentation are correct front and back.
Lie flat on table.

Examine styling details.
shading details to check stretching defect sticker

Knit and Woven Tops Inspection Continued
Open and check any center front opening.
Examine outside and inside of collar / neck.

Examine inside shoulder seam.
Fold top forward at shoulders. Examine back neck.

Knit and Woven Tops Inspection Continued
START
Examine right Examine left

armhole seam. shoulder seam.
Examine right Examine left
shoulder seam. armhole seam.
Fold sleeve across front of garment. Fold sleeve across front of garment.
Examine back right armhole. Examine back left armhole. Check
Check for shading. for shading.
Examine right sleeve cuff inside Examine left sleeve cuff inside and
and out. out.
Examine right side seam and right Examine bottom hem inside and out, Examine left underarm seam and
underarm seam. front and back. left side seam.

Knit and Woven Tops Inspection continued
Turn garment over.

Examine styling details and any unchecked seams on back.
Finishing
A-Grade B/C-Grade

Jackets Inspection
Pick up by shoulder points. Check appearance and presenta-

tion are correct front and back.
Lie flat on table. Examine styling details - logo’s, pockets etc.
Lined / Reversible Jackets
Open and check center front opening. Check appearance and presentation.
Examine styling details - facings, labels, pockets, etc.

Jackets Inspection continued
8 3
Reversible Jackets: Reversible Jackets:

Pull out sleeve completely. Pull out sleeve completely.
9 2
10 7 4 5
Examine inside collar. Starting with left shoulder seam examine all liner seams
in a clockwise direction - see numbered arrows.
Examine bottom hem inside and out, front and back.

If elasticized, stretch out to full extent.

START
Examine right armhole seam and Examine left shoulder seam and
shoulder seam. armhole seam.
Fold sleeve across front of Fold sleeve across front of

jacket. Examine back right jacket. Examine back left
armhole. Check for shading. armhole. Check for shading.
Examine right sleeve cuff. Examine left sleeve cuff.
Examine right side seam Examine left side seam

and underarm seam. and underarm seam.

Outside of Jacket
Examine outside collar.
Hood
Fold forward at shoulders. Examine back neck.

Examine outside and inside of hood.

Turn jacket over. Examine styling details and any unchecked seams.
Finishing
A-Grade B/C-Grade

Bottom Inspection, Pants
Pick up by waist. Check appearance and

presentation are correct front and back.
Lie flat on table.

Examine styling details, logo’s, etc.
Examine front rise seam.

Bottom Inspection, Pants continued
Examine front outside waistband. If elasticized,

stretch out to full extent.
Turn waistband back. Examine styling details,

labels, drawcords, etc.
Turn waistband inside out.
Fold waistband over. Examine back waist.

Bottom Inspection, Pants continued
L
or
Fold, front rise towards auditor, outseam to inseam. Examine left leg opening. If elasticized
Examine styling details. Examine left outseam, stretch out to full extent.
including side pocket. Check for shading.
Fold left leg out.
Examine back rise and front rise.
or
Examine total inseam.
R or
Return leg to original position. Turn pant over, Examine right leg opening. If elasticized
back rise to auditor. Examine right outseam. stretch out to full extent.

Bottoms Inspection, Pants Continued
Finishing
A-Grade
B/C -Grade

Bottom Inspection, Shorts
Pick up by waist. Check appearance and

presentation are correct front and back.
Lie flat on table.

Examine styling details, logo’s, etc.
Examine front rise seam.

Bottom Inspection, Shorts continued
Examine front outside waistband. If elasticized,

stretch out to full extent.
Turn waistband back. Examine styling details,

labels, drawcords, etc.
Turn waistband inside out.
Fold waistband over. Examine back waist.

Bottom Inspection, Shorts continued
START
Examine right side seam, Examine left side seam,

including side pockets. including side pockets.
Examine inseam.
Examine outside and inside Examine outside and inside

right hem. left hem.
Turn short over. Examine styling details, Examine

back rise and other unchecked seams.

Bottoms Inspection, Shorts continued
Liners
Pull out liner of short. Examine all seams - back.
Examine all seams - front.

Elasticized leg openings should be stretched to
full extent.
FINISHING
A-Grade B/C Grade

Bodywear Inspection
Pick up by shoulder points. Check appearance and presentation

are correct front and back.
Lie flat on table. Examine styling details.

Bodywear Inspection continued
START
Examine outside and inside of neck

opening. Stretch out to full extent.
Examine right armhole and strap, Examine left armhole and strap,
outside and inside, front and back. outside and inside, front and back.
Stretch out to full extent. Stretch out to full extent.
Examine right side seam. Examine left side seam.
Examine right leg opening outside Examine inseam. Examine left leg opening outside
and inside, front and back. Stretch and inside, front and back. Stretch
out to full extent. out to full extent.

Bodywear Inspection continued
Pick up garment. Stretch all seams longitudinally.
Turn garment over.

Examine styling details and any unchecked seams.
Finishing
A-Grade B/C-Grade

Socks Inspection
Check socks are the same size - leg length, foot length.
Check apearance is correct. Examine styling details.
Lay socks side by side. Check appearance is correct.

Examine styling details. Check for consistency.
Turn each sock over. Check appearance is correct.

Examine styling details. Check for consistency.
Pick up one sock. Examine welt.

Socks Inspection continued
Insert hand. Examine toe seam and gore area.
Pull hand back. Examine sole.
Rotate hand to examine front and back.

Socks Inspection continued
Examine heel gore.
Examine front and back leg.
Repeat for second sock.

Finishing
A-Grade B/C-Grade

Caps Inspection
Pick up by bill. Check appearance and presentation

are correct front, sides and back.
Examine styling details.
Examine seams. Check for shading.

Caps Inspection continued
Turn cap around. Examine back strap.
Turn cap upside down. Examine inside - sweatband, bindings, labels, etc.
Finishing
A-Grade B/C-Grade

Audit Results
After the audit is completed, the supplier’s Certified Auditor should count the
total number of defects found. Using the accept/reject criteria that was
established
prior to beginning the audit, determine the shipment disposition.
If the number of defects found falls within the acceptable criteria, the supplier’s
Certified Auditor will:
• Enter the results on the audit form.

• Review any defects found with the Quality Manager and other key personnel.
•
The supplier is responsible to determine the root cause(s) of each quality
issue and make process improvements to eliminate the issue in future
production.
If the number of defects found does not meet the acceptable criteria:
• The supplier’s Certified Auditor will enter the results on the audit form.
• The supplier’s Certified Auditor will review all defects found with the Quality
Manager and other key personnel.
• The supplier will conduct 100% inspection of the shipment.

• The supplier’s Certified Auditor must re-audit the shipment after 100%
inspection is complete and before the product is shipped.
• The supplier is responsible to determine the root cause(s) of each quality

issue and make process improvements to eliminate the issue in future
production.

Materials Inspection Manual
© NIKE, Inc. 1999

NIKE, Inc.
One Bowerman Drive
U.S.A.
Tel: 503.671.6453
Fax: 503.671.6300
© 1999 NIKE, Inc.

This confidential material belongs to NIKE, Inc. and must be returned by the
holder upon request.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Purpose ......................................................................................................... A2.1
Preparation for Inspection

Inspection Requirements .............................................................................. A2.3
Inspection Procedure
Sampling Plan ............................................................................................... A2.7
Color and Aesthetics ..................................................................................... A2.9
Visual Inspection .......................................................................................... A2.11
Four Point Table ........................................................................................... A2.12
Inspection Results
Evaluation Guideline ................................................................................... A2.13
Accept / Reject Procedure ............................................................................ A2.13
Reporting ...................................................................................................... A2.14
Appendix
Defect Classification .................................................................................... A2.15
Fabric Inspection Worksheet ........................................................................ A2.17
Fabric Inspection Report .............................................................................. A2.19
Introduction
Purpose
The purpose of this Materials Inspection Manual is to:

• Provide a guideline to the factory for evaluating and grading the incoming
quality of raw materials to be used for NIKE apparel.
• Communicate NIKE’s quality expectations.

• Assist the factory in detecting defects and preventing substandard raw
material
from going into the finished product.
• Provide a training framework for inspectors.
• Promote communication between the factory and the vendor to resolve
quality
problems.
• Help develop the Vendor Quality Report (VQR).
Re
fe
Sa renc
mp e
le
May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.1

Preparation for Inspection
Inspection Requirements
The factory should perform the materials inspection within 7 days of shipment
receipt and resolve quality issues in a timely manner.
Area
The inspection area should be:
• Open, clean and dry

• Well lit
• Under controlled temperature and humidity conditions. The acceptable
working temperature is between 68°F and 80°F (20°C - 28°C).
Equipment
• Inspection Frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive,
a yard (or meter) counter, an undercarriage light to see through the
construction
and an overhead light to inspect the face of the fabric.
• Inspection Speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards per
minute (27 meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse
controls.
• Viewing Distance: The inspection should be performed from an observation

distance of 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 centimeters) so as to get full vision of the
fabric width.
• Lighting: Overhead cool white florescent (CWF) lighting is recommended

for the inspection. The surface illumination level should be a minimum of
1075 lux (100 foot candles).
Variable speed
Undercarriage lighting with adjustable intensity
Yard / Meter Counter

Light Box and Color Room
Each Factory should have an International light box equipped with:
Light Source Light Type
Primary Light Source D 65 (6500K) Average North Sky Daylight
Secondary Light Source TL 84 (4100K)
Additional UV Light (optional)
The Light box must be in a closed conditioned room with no interference from
outside light. The walls of the room should be painted neutral gray. The NIKE
Liaison Office colorist or Apparel Product Integrity (API) personnel can provide
information on the correct light box selection and setup.
ONOFF
TL84
ARTDAY
h 5
003 62
Light box in a conditioned room, or protected area with black curtains.
Note: Suggested Light Box brands are:
• Verivide CAC
• MacBeth Judge II
Datacolor TruVue
•
Suggested Bulb Specifications for D65 and TL84 are:
• D65 = GE 6500K made by General Electric

• TL84 = TL80-F40T8/TL841 made by Phillips.
A2.4 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999

Tools
• Measuring Tape
• Scissors
•
Defect Stickers / Tags
•
• Selvedge Defect Flags
Inspection Forms
Steel or reinforced fiberglass 1/4” Scissors Defect stickers

tape measure (cloth not recommended).
Fabric Reference Sample
The factory should receive a fabric reference sample from the vendor for each
item
and color ordered. This sample should be used by the factory for color, hand, and
appearance verification. Subsequent orders of the same item / color will use the
original sample.
Note: The factory MUST request this reference sample from the vendor in the
purchase order.
This reference sample must be properly stored for use in quality comparison.
Keep
a clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor name, item
number, color name, date received, batch number, and any other relevant
information.
The sample should be kept for as long as the item stays active.
ceReferen
Sample
Fabric Reference Sample

Inspection Procedure
Sampling Plan
The sampling plan given below provides a guideline for determining the
inspection
sample size. Although NIKE recommends a minimum 10% inspection by color
within each shipment, each factory may inspect more as per their need and
resources.
WOVEN FABRICS
Yards / Meters Percent to Inspect
Less than 2,000 Yards One roll or 10%

(1,800 meters) (whichever is greater)
2,001 to 20,000 Yards 10 % Inspection

(1,801 - 18,000 meters)

(18,001 - 46,000 meters)
Over 50,001 Yards 3 % Inspection

(46,001 meters)
KNIT FABRICS (Circular knit / Warp knit)

Yards / Meters Percent to Inspect
Less than 2,000 Yards One roll or 10%

(1,800 meters) (whichever is greater)

(1,801 - 4,600 meters)

(4,601 meters - 18,000 meters)
Over 20,001 Yards 3 % Inspection

(18,001 meters)
The number of rolls inspected should be rounded off to the next whole roll.
Always
inspect a complete roll.
Example:
If the rolls from one color total 24 rolls, and each roll averages
100 yards (90 meters),
Then total yardage = 2400 yards (2160 meters).

If 10% of the rolls are to be inspected,
10% of 24 rolls = 2.4 rolls, round off to 3 rolls.
So inspect about 300 yards (270 meters).

Roll Selection
Randomly select the number of rolls needed for inspection by color. If there is
more than one dye lot per color, the random sampling should be taken across the
dye lots available.
Rolls should be neatly rolled, wrapped in polyethylene, clearly labelled, and properly
sealed.
Shipment Information
Verify shipment information to ensure shipment accuracy and note any

discrepancies on the inspection report. Note the following information:
• Item Number/Dye Shade Number
• Width
• Linear Yards
•
Vendor Inspection Report
•
• Spectrophotometer Color Reading (if available)
• Physical Test Report
Other Information as needed
Check:
Number of lots
Number of rolls
Yards (Meters) per color

Color and Aesthetics
Cut a head-end sample across the width of the fabric, preferably about 2 yards
inside one of the selected rolls. This sample will be used for color and aesthetic
verification.
Color
1. Color Standard. Check the head-end sample in the light box against the
fabric reference sample under both D65 and TL84 light source. This should
be done once for each color inspected.
RefeSa rencmp ele
2. Shading within the roll. Check for shading at the beginning, in the middle
and at the end of each roll inspected, using the head-end sample for
comparison.
• Side to center
• Side to side
•
End to end

3. Color Continuity Card. Check for color consistency between the rolls. Cut a
small sample (about 2 x 2 inches or 5 x 5 centimeters) from the left side, the
center and the right side of each inspected roll and attach to the color
continuity
card. Check the samples against the fabric reference sample. Note any
significant variation of shade from roll to roll.
Fabric
supp
CONT
lier: INU
ITY
Fabric CARD
item
:
Colo
BatchRolln no: urwa
y:
Yd/m o:: 121 70
80m
BatchRolln no:
Yd/m o:: 122 71
76m
BatchRolln no:
Yd/m o:: 125 70
25m
BatchRolln no:
Yd/m o:: 126 71
75m
BatchRolln no:
Yd/m o:: 129 70
90m
BatchRolln no:
Yd/m o:: 1210 71
BatchRolln no:o
80m
121 70
Aesthetics
Inspect overall hand and appearance against the fabric reference sample for
cleanliness, texture, recovery, drape, resilience, wrinkling, etc.
RefeSa rencmp ele
If the color and/or the aesthetics do not match the sample, record the
discrepancy
and contact the vendor for resolution. The factory should continue with the visual
inspection for the recording of defects even if the inspection has been rejected
for
color and/or aesthetics. The factory will determine how the shipment can best
meet their production needs without causing quality problems in the finished
product.

Visual Inspection
Once the color and aesthetics have been checked, begin the visual inspection for
defects. Defects which are not desirable and are clearly detectable on the
inspection
frame will be assigned points as shown in the Four Point Table. The Four Point
system will be applied to all fabrics, i.e. woven, circular knit and warp knit.
Always inspect the side which will be used as the face in the finished garment.
Mount the roll on the inspection frame with the face side up.
Fabric Width
Measure the cuttable width at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of
every
roll. If a variation in cuttable width is found, the factory will determine if the
fabric is usable and if a replacement is necessary. At this point, the inspector
should also check the condition of the selvedges. The selvedges should lay flat,
be free of tension, and should not have a tendency to curl.
Roll Length
Measure and record the length of each roll inspected.

Inspection for Defects
Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at 20 5 yards per
minute
(18 5 meters per minute). If a defect is observed:
1. Classify the defect and assign the appropriate points based on the severity of
the defect. The severity is determined by the type and the length of the
defect
- see point table below and defect classification listed on page A2.15.
Four Point Table
Vertical Defects Horizontal Defects

(along the length) (along the width)
Length Points Length Points
0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1 0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1
9.1 to 36.0 in (23.1 to 92.0 cm) 4 9.1 to full width (above 23.1 cm) 4
Note:
• A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one linear yard, regardless
of the number or size of the individual defects.
• For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points will be assigned to

each linear yard where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).
2. Mark the defect at the selvage and/or at the defect.
3. Record the defect and the assigned points on the inspection worksheet.

Inspection Results
Complete the worksheet and calculate the total points of inspected rolls and the
total of the inspected yards. With this information use the appropriate formula
below to calculate the Average Points (per 100 yards or 90 meters).
Total Points of inspected rolls

Average Points / 100 Yards =
x 100
Total Inspected Yards
or
Total Points of inspected rolls
Average Points / 90 Meters =
x 90
Total Inspected Meters
The average points (per 100 yards or 90 meters) of inspected fabric will be
compared
to the standard below for acceptability.
Evaluation Guideline
NIKE will evaluate a vendor’s quality performance based on the point count
system, using the following guideline:
Fabric Type Allowable Points per 100 yards

(90 meters)
Woven Fabric 20
Warp Knit Fabric 20
Knit Fabrics (Open width Or Tubular) 25
Note: This criteria is subject to change at NIKE’s discretion.
Accept / Reject Procedure
The decision to use a shipment is at the discretion of the factory. The factory will
determine how the shipment can best meet their production needs without
causing
quality problems in the finished product. The shipment will be considered
acceptable and should not be returned to the vendor if NIKE’s standards have
been
met. However, the factory may decide to use a shipment even if the average
points
per 100 yards (90 meters) shows a higher number than allowed on the NIKE
evaluation guideline above. The decision to accept the shipment, in this case,
would be appropriate if the factory can meet NIKE’s finished product
requirements
using such a shipment. The factory is responsible for the quality of the finished
product.
The Factory will communicate quality issues directly to the vendor with
supporting
facts such as the inspection report and the defective samples. The factory will
keep
all records for NIKE’s review. The records must be kept for two years.

Reporting
The inspection is intended to determine the shipment quality and to capture

information for quality performance evaluation of the vendor. One Inspection
Report should be completed for each color inspected. Multiple dye lots of one
color should be included on one Inspection Report. The Factory will submit all
inspection results to NIKE weekly, as instructed by the NIKE Liaison Office. NIKE
will use this information to generate a Vendor Quality Report (VQR). This report
will be shared with the vendor for quality improvements and performance
evaluations.

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NIKE Inc. Global Measuring Manual
BAND/ELASTIC WIDTH/DEPTH
Code: 180
BAND WIDTH/DEPTH - cuff
Measured from finished edge of band to seam.
Code: 181
BAND WIDTH/DEPTH - cuff
Code: 182
BAND WIDTH/DEPTH - waistband
Code: 183
ELASTIC WIDTH/DEPTH - cuff
Turn back elastic - Measured from finished edge to

farthest stitch line.
Original Date: 1-Mar-96

Revision Date: 1-Dec-98
Page # 1
BAND/ELASTIC WIDTH/DEPTH
Code: 184
ELASTIC WIDTH/DEPTH - waist
Turn back elastic - Measured from finished edge to

farthest stitch line.
Code: 185
ELASTIC WIDTH/DEPTH - cuff
Set on elastic - Measured from finished edge to seam.
Code: 186
ELASTIC WIDTH/DEPTH - waistband
Set on elastic - Measured from finished edge to seam.
Code: 187
BAND WIDTH/DEPTH - armhole

Page # 2
VENT LENGTH
Code: 188
VENT LENGTH - front vent
Measured from top of vent opening to bottom of hem along finished edge of vent on front.
Code:189
VENT LENGTH - back vent
Measured from top of vent opening to bottom of hem along finished edge of vent on back.

Revision Date: 1-Dec-98 Page # 3
HOOD
Code: 190
HOOD POINT / COLLAR HEIGHT
Measured straight from neck seam to edge of hood opening at center front.
Code: 191
HOOD NECK LINE
Measured along hood neck seam from center back to front yoke seam.
Code: 192
HOOD OPENING
Measured on half from center front to top of hood at center front along edge of opening.

Page # 4
HOOD
Code: 193
HOOD HEIGHT - center front neckline to top of hood
Measured straight from neck seam to top edge

of hood opening.
DD: Primarily used for factory developed patterns.
Code: 194
HOOD LENGTH
A B
Measured from back neck seam to front edge along seam.
A: 2 panel hood, measured along center seam.
B: 3 panel hood, measured along panel seam.
Code: 195
HOOD WIDTH
Measure straight across hood from edge of opening to center back edge.
Measure location is 2/3 up from the neck seam. 1/3
2/3

Page # 5
POCKETS
Code: 200
POCKETS - side, on seam, pouch, welt, cargo, patch
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - between bartacks
Horizontal - measure side to side

Vertical - measure top to bottom
Code:

POCKET PLACEMENT
Code: 201
POCKET PLACEMENT
Measured straight from top of waistband down to top of pocket opening.
Code:

ZIPPER LENGTH
Code: 210
ZIPPER LENGTH
Measure from outside of stops end to end.
COLLAR
HOOD

FLY
Code: 211
FLY ZIPPER LENGTH
Measured straight from waistband seam

to bottom of fly.
Code: 212
FLY LENGTH
Measured straight from top of waistband

to bottom of fly.

Revision Date: 28-Jan-02 Page # 9
DRAWCORD
Code: 220
DRAWCORD - relaxed
INSIDE MEASUREMENT -Spec measurement is total length, with knots.

Drawcord is measured on the half and then multiplied by two for the spec
measurement.
Continous - Fold garment in half. pull drawcord firmly do not stretch cord.
Measurement in cludes loop.
Open ended - Fold garment in half. Pull drawcord firmly keeping ends
even, do not stretch cord.
Code: 221
HOOD DRAWCORD - relaxed
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - Spec measurement is total

length, with knots. Drawcord is measured on the half
and then multiplied by two for spec measurement.
Continous - Fold hood in half. Pull drawcord firmly,

do not stretch cord. Measurement includes loop.
Open ended - Fold hood in half. Pull drawcord firmly

keeping ends even, do not stretch cord.
Code: 222
DRAWCORD - relaxed
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - Spec measurement is total

length from placket seam/stitching, with knots.

BIKE PAD
Code: 223
BIKE PAD - front
Measured from top of waistband to top of pad along

front rise seam.
Code: 224
BIKE PAD - back
Measured from top of waistband to top of pad along

back rise seam.
Original Date: 1-Dec-98

Revision Date: Page # 11
LOGO PLACEMENT - TOP
CF
Tip and
tail level

CNC LABEL PLACEMENT
CNC PLACEMENT ON TOPS/JACKETS
4" up from bottom hem; on front

measure to BOTTOM of label on
inside of garment
*Some styles may require placement more than 4" up front hem ( longer vents, extra button, etc.).
CNC PLACEMENT ON PANTS/SHORTS
4" down from top of waistband;

measure to TOP of label on inside
of garment.

QUILTING
SINGLE NEEDLE QUILTING
Y"
X"
Measured X" x Y" (3" x 2" diamond). If X" and Y" are
the same measurements, then only one measurement
will be called out (3" diamond).
TWO NEEDLE QUILTING 1/4" GAUGE
Y"
X"
Measured X" x Y" (3" x 2" diamond); from INNER diamond to

OUTER diamond. If X" and Y" are the same measurements,
then only one measurement will be called out (3" diamond).

LENGTH
Code: 100
BODY LENGTH - center back neck seam to bottom hem
Measured from center back neck seam or

edge to bottom of hem or bottom band.
Garments with neck rib should be
measured from neck seam.
Code: 101
BODY LENGTH - shoulder / neck point to center front bottom hem
Measured straight on a diagonal. Tank styles.

A B
A: Hemmed or bound neck - measured edge to
center front bottom hem.
B: Banded neck- measured seam to center

front bottom hem.

LENGTH
Code: 103
FRONT BODY LENGTH - center back neck seam to bottom front hem
Measured from center back neck seam to bottom front hem. Garments with neck band should be
measured from neck seam. Garment should be
laid face up for measuring.
DD: Primarily used for factory developed patterns
Code: 400
FRONT BODY LENGTH - center front neck edge to center front bottom hem
Hemmed or bound neck - measured straight from center front neck edge to center front of bottom hem.
Smooth out all fullness.

LENGTH
Code: 403
BODY LENGTH - center front neck edge to inseam / gusset
Hemmed or bound neck - measure straight from center front neck edge to
inseam / gusset.
Code: 404
BODY LENGTH - center front neck seam to inseam / gusset
Collared - measure straight from center front neck seam to inseam / gusset.

LENGTH
Code: 405
BODY LENGTH - center front neck edge to waist seam
Hemmed or bound neck - measured straight from center front neck edge to
center front of waist seam.
Code: 406
BODY LENGTH - center front neck seam to waist seam
Collared - measured straight from center front neck seam to center front of waist seam.

LENGTH
Code: 407
BODY LENGTH - shoulder neck edge to inseam / gusset
Hemmed or bound neck - measure straight from front shoulder neck edge to
crotch fold.
Code: 408
BODY LENGTH - shoulder neck edge to inseam / gusset
Collared - measure straight from front shoulder neck point at

natural fold to crotch fold.

SHOULDER / STRAP WIDTH

Code: 110
SHOULDER WIDTH - at natural shoulder fold: set in,
drop shoulder
Measured from shoulder point to shoulder point straight across

back of garment.
Code: 111
STRAP WIDTH - at natural shoulder fold
Measured straight from armhole edge to neck edge. If shoulder seam is

moved, measure at top fold of garment.
Hemmed or bound armhole and neck.
Code: 112
STRAP WIDTH - at natural shoulder fold
Measured straight from seam to seam. If shoulder seam is moved,

measure at top fold of garment. Banded armhole and neck.

BODY WIDTH
Code: 120
BODY WIDTH - 1" (2.5cm) below armhole
Measured on the half, straight across garment, side to side.
Set in, hemmed or bound

armhole measured 1" (2.5cm)
below armhole.
Banded armhole - measured 1"

1" (2.5cm) below armhole seam.
1"
1"
Code: 121
BODY WIDTH - at specified point
Measured on the half. Measured

X" distance from specified point.
Measure straight across garment,
side to side.
x"
x" x"

BODY WIDTH AT WAIST

Code: 122
WAIST - at narrowest point
Measured on the half, straight across garment side to side, at narrowest point.
Code:

CHEST WIDTH
Code: 123
CHEST WIDTH - at bottom of front neck
Measured on the half, straight across garment, side to side.
Code: 124
CHEST WIDTH - at seam
Measured on the half, straight across garment, seam to seam.

SWEEP
Code: 125
BODY SWEEP - open
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - Measured on the half, straight across garment.
Open - measured at bottom of hem.
Code: 126
BODY SWEEP - relaxed - banded and elastic
INSIDE MEASUREMENT- CLOSURES CLOSED
Measured on the half, straight across garment.
A: Band - measured at bottom of relaxed band.
B: Elastic - measured at bottom of relaxed elastic. A B

Page # 24
SWEEP
Code: 127
BODY SWEEP - stretched - banded and elastic
Measured on the half. Closures closed. Garment is laid smooth and gently pulled. All fullness needs to be
removed but fabric must not be stretched.
A: Band - measured at attach seam of stretched band.
B: Turn back elastic - measured at bottom of stretched

elastic.
A
C: Set on elastic - measured at attach seam of stretched

elastic.
DD: Primarily used for factory developed patterns. C
Code: 425
BODY SWEEP - minimum stretched (over shoulder)
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - Measured on the half. Garment is laid smooth and gently stretched.
Closures should be open at time of measuring.
Band, turn back elastic or set on elastic - measured at bottom

of stretched elastic.

SWEEP
Code: 128
BODY SWEEP - shirt tail / vents
Measured on the half, straight across garment. A
A: Shirt tail - measured at top of curve at side seam.
B: Vent - measured at top of vent. B
C: Elliptical - measured at top of curve at side seam.
Code: 129
BODY SWEEP - center front to center back
Measured on the half. SIDE SEAM
Elliptical - measured center front to center back along curve.
Code: 350
SWEEP - at bottom hem
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - Measured on the half, across

garment parallel to bottom hem.

Page # 26
SLEEVE LENGTH
Code: 132
SLEEVE LENGTH - center back neck seam to bottom of sleeve
Measure straight from center back

neck seam to sleeve attach seam,
pivot, measure straight from sleeve
attach seam to bottom of sleeve.
Code: 133
SLEEVE LENGTH - center back neck seam to bottom of sleeve - Men and Women
Measure straight from center back neck

seam out 8 1/4" (21cm) at top of garment,
8 1/4" (21 cm )
pivot, measure straight from pivot point
to bottom of sleeve.
8 1/4" (21 cm )
Code: 134
SLEEVE LENGTH - center back neck seam to bottom of sleeve - Boys and Girls
Measure straight from center back

neck seam out 6" (15cm) at top of
garment, pivot, measure straight 6" (15 cm )
from pivot point to bottom of sleeve.
6" (15 cm )
Original Date: 1-May-98

SLEEVE LENGTH
Code: 138
SLEEVE LENGTH center back neck seam to bottom of sleeve - Infants and Toddlers
Measure straight from center back neck

seam out 4 3/4" (12cm) at top of garment,
pivot, measure straight from pivot point
to bottom of sleeve. 4 3/4" (12 cm )
4 3/4" (12 cm )
Code:
Code:
Original Date: 1-May-98

SLEEVE LENGTH
Code: 135
SLEEVE LENGTH - center back neck to bottom hem
Measured straight from center back neck seam to bottom

of sleeve with garment laid flat and at a natural angle.
Do not measure via shoulder point.
Code: 136
SLEEVE LENGTH - shoulder neck seam to bottom hem -
dolman, raglan
Measured straight from shoulder neck point to farthest end of

cuff or hem with garment laid flat and at a natural angle.
Code: 137
SLEEVE LENGTH - center cap to bottom hem -
set-in, drop shoulder
Measured straight from center cap to farthest end of cuff

or hem with garment laid flat and at a natural angle.

Page # 29
SLEEVE WIDTH
Code: 140
SLEEVE WIDTH - 1" ( 2.5 cm ) below armhole -
set-in, drop shoulder and raglan
Measured on the half. Measure 1" (2.5 cm) along

armhole seam. Measured straight across sleeve,
right angle to top fold of sleeve. 1"
1"
Code: 141
SLEEVE WIDTH - at specified point - dolman
Measured on the half. Measured at the X" distance

from a specific point. Measured straight across
sleeve, right angle to top fold of sleeve.
X"
Code:

SLEEVE OPENING
Code: 145
SLEEVE OPENING - relaxed - at bottom hem
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - measured on the half.
Code: 146
SLEEVE OPENING - stretched - banded and elastic
Measured on the half. Garment is gently pulled. All fullness A

needs to be removed but fabric must not be stretched.
A: Banded - measured at attach seam of stretched band.
B: Turn back elastic - measured at bottom of stretched elastic. B
C: Set on elastic - measured at attach seam of stretched elastic.
C
DD : Primarily used for factory developed patterns.
Code:

ARMHOLE
Code: 150
ARMHOLE DIAGONAL - measured edge to edge
Measured straight from shoulder point to underarm.
Hemmed or bound armhole - measured edge to edge.
Code: 151
ARMHOLE DIAGONAL - measured seam to seam
Measured straight from shoulder point to underarm.
Banded armhole - measured seam to seam.
Code: 152
ARMHOLE - seam to seam - front
Measured at edge of armhole along curve from shoulder seam to side seam.
Code: 153
ARMHOLE - seam to seam - back
Measured at edge of armhole along curve from shoulder seam to side seam.

ARMHOLE
Code: 154
ARMHOLE - measure on the half along curve
Measured on the half. Fold armhole in half keeping edges even, measure
at edge of armhole along curve from fold to fold.
Code: 155
ARMHOLE - measure on the half straightened
Measured on the half relaxed. Fold the armhole in half keeping edges
even, measure at edge of straightened armhole from fold to fold.
Do not stretch.
Code: 156
"Y" BACK - edge to edge
Measured at edge of armhole at narrowest point.
Code:

DISTANCE TO RAGLAN SEAM

Code: 159
DISTANCE TO RAGLAN SEAM
Measured from neck point at natural shoulder fold to raglan seam measured along neck seam.
DD: primarily used for factory developed patterns.
Code:

NECK OPENING
Code: 160
NECK OPENING - relaxed - center front to
center back
CENTER
Measured on the half. Fold neck line along center front CENTER
FRONT
BACK
and center back keeping neck seams even. Measure
along seam line. This measurement should be an
inside measurement but it is too difficult to get an SIDE SEAM
accurate length and so is taken on the outside.
Do not stretch.
Code: 161
NECK OPENING - minimum stretched (over head)
CENTER CENTER BACK
FRONT
Measured on the half. Garment laid flat and gently

pull opening. SIDE SEAM
Code: 162
NECK OPENING - buttons, snaps, and zips - center front to
center back
Measured on the half. Closures should be closed at time of measuring.

Fold neck line at center front and center back, or as close as possible,
keeping neck seams even. Measure along seam line. This measurement
should be an inside measurement but it is to difficult to get an accurate
length and so is taken on the outside.
Code: 163
NECK OPENING - buttons, snaps, and half-zips - minimum opening
Measured on the half, unzipped, unbuttoned, unsnapped. Measure straight from

center back neck to bottom of front opening.

NECK OPENING
Code: 460
FRONT NECK OPENING - shoulder seam to shoulder seam
Hemmed or bound - measure along curve of front neck, shoulder seam to shoulder seam.
Code: 461
FRONT NECK OPENING - shoulder seam to center front
Hemmed or bound - measure along curve of front neck, shoulder seam to center front.
Code: 462
BACK NECK OPENING - shoulder seam to shoulder seam
Hemmed or bound - measure along curve of back neck, shoulder seam to shoulder seam.

NECK OPENING
Code: 465
NECK OPENING - minimum stretched (over hips)
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - Measure on half along edge. Garment laid flat

and gently stretch opening.
Closures should be open at time of measuring.
Code:
Code:

NECK WIDTH
Code: 164
BACK NECK WIDTH - edge to edge
Measure straight from shoulder neck point to shoulder neck point. If shoulder seam is moved,
measurement is taken at natural shoulder fold.
Hemmed or bound neck - measure edge to edge.
Code: 165
BACK NECK WIDTH - seam to seam
Measure straight from shoulder neck seam to shoulder neck seam. If shoulder seam is moved, measurement
neck seam. If shoulder seam is moved, measurement
Banded or collared neck - measure seam to seam.
Code:

NECK DROP
Code: 166
FRONT NECK DROP - vertical from imaginary line
The imaginary line is created by measuring straight

from shoulder neck point to shoulder neck point.
If shoulder seam is moved, measurement is taken
at natural shoulder fold.
Hemmed or bound neck - measured straight down

to neck edge at center front.
Code: 167
FRONT NECK DROP - vertical from imaginary line
The imaginary line is created by measuring

straight from shoulder neck seam to shoulde
neck seam. If shoulder seam is moved,
Collared or banded neck - measured straight

down to neck seam at center front.
Code: 168
BACK NECK DROP - vertical from imaginary line

straight from shoulder neck point to shoulder
neck point. If shoulder seam is moved,
Hemmed or bound neck - measured straight

down to neck edge at center back.
Code: 169
BACK NECK DROP - vertical from imaginary line

straight from shoulder neck seam to shoulde
neck seam. If shoulder seam is moved,
Collared or banded neck - measured straight

down to neck seam at center back.

COLLAR
Code: 170
COLLAR LENGTH - point to point
Measured along finished edge of collar from center

front collar point to center front collar point.
Code: 171
COLLAR HEIGHT / COLLAR POINTS - center front
Measured along collar points from edge of collar to neck seam.
Code: 172
COLLAR HEIGHT - center back
Measured from top edge of collar to neck seam at

center back.
Code: 173
COLLAR SPREAD - point to point
Measured straight from collar point to collar point.

PLACKET
Code: 175
PLACKET SLIT LENGTH
Measured straight from neck seam to bottom of box.
Code: 176
PLACKET OPENING - neck seam to top of box
Measured straight from neck seam to top of box.
Code: 178
PLACKET WIDTH
Top placket - measured straight from finished edge

to topstitching line.
Code:

WAIST
Code: 300
WAIST - relaxed
INSIDE MEASUREMENT-
Measured on the half.
Garment laid flat.
Code: 301
WAIST - minimum stretched
(over hips)
INSIDE MEASUREMENT -
Elastic - garment laid smooth and

gently pulled.
Tailored waistbands - garment

laid smooth. Closures should
be open.

Page # 42
HIP WIDTH
Code: 304
HIP - DISTANCE DOWN
Measured specified distance down x"

from top of waistband.
x" x"
x"
x"
x"
Code: 305
HIP WIDTH
Measured on the half. Measured X"

distance down from top of waistband.
Measurement is parallel to top
waistband. Smooth out all fullness
across hip area.

HIP WIDTH
Code: 306
HIP WIDTH
Measured on the half. Measured at top of gusset. Measurement is parallel to top of waistband.
Smooth out all fullness across hip area.
Code: 343
LINER HIP WIDTH
Measured on the half, straight across garment, side to side at

the top of the leg.
Remove all fullness across hip area.
vv v v vv v v v v v vvvvvvvvvvvvvv
v vvv
vv
vvvvvvvvvvvv vv
vvv vv vv
vvv vv
vv v
vv
vv vv
vv vv
v vv
vvvvv vv vvv vv
vv vv
vv vvv v vvvv
vvv vv
vvv vvv vvv
vvv
vv
vvv vv
v vvvv
vvv vvv
v v v v v v vvv
v v
vv v v v v v v vv
vv v vv
DD: Primarily used for factory developed patterns. vv
vv vv v
vv vv
vvvvvvv vv vv vvv
vvv vvv v vvv vvvvvvv

HIP WIDTH
Code: 501
HIP WIDTH - at top of leg opening
Measured on the half. Measure straight across

garment from top of leg to top of leg.
Code: 502
HIP - distance up
Measured a X" distance up front rise from inseam.
X"
Code: 503
HIP WIDTH
Measured at X" distance up from inseam. Measure across

garment from edge to edge.

THIGH WIDTH
Code: 310
THIGH WIDTH - pant A B
A: Measured across leg 1" (2.5cm) below rise seam right

angle to center front grain.
B: Gusset - measured across leg at gusset point right angle

to center front grain. 1"
Inseam
Code: 311
THIGH WIDTH - short
Measured on the half
A: Measured across leg 1" (2.5cm) below rise seam right angle to center front grain.
B: Gusset - measured across leg at gusset point right angle to centerfront grain.
A B
1"
Inseam

THIGH WIDTH
Code: 510
THIGH WIDTH - tight, short or unitard
Gusset - measured across leg at gusset point right angle to

outseam.
Code: 511
THIGH WIDTH - tight, short or unitard
Measured across leg 1" (2.5 cm )below rise seam, at right angle to
outseam.
1"

KNEE WIDTH
Code: 412
KNEE - DISTANCE UP
Measured X" distance up from bottom hem.
X" X"
Code: 413
KNEE WIDTH
Measured on half. Measured X" distance up

from bottom hem.

CALF WIDTH
Code: 414
CALF - DISTANCE UP
Measured X" distance up from bottom hem.
X" X"
Code: 415
CALF WIDTH
Measured on half. Measured X" distance

up from bottom hem.

LEG OPENING
Code: 315
LEG OPENING RELAXED

Closures should be closed at time of measuring.
A: Open - measured at bottom of hem.
B: Band - measured at bottom of relaxed band.
C: Elastic - measured at bottom of relaxed elastic.
A B C
Code: 316
LEG OPENING STRETCHED -
Measured on the half. Closures should be closed at

time of measuring.
A: Band - measured at seam of stretched band.
B: Turn back elastic - measured at bottom of stretched elastic.
C: Set on elastic - measured at seam of stretched elastic.
DD : Primarily used for factory developed patterns A B C

Code: 317
LEG OPENING -short
A: Open - measured at bottom of hem.
B: Vented - lay outseam on top of inseam. Measured at

bottom of hem, including vent.
C: No elastic A B
D: Elastic
D C
LEG OPENING
Code: 515
LEG OPENING - front - seam to seam
Measure at the edge of relaxed elastic on front leg from side seam
to inseam, along curve.
Code: 516
LEG OPENING = back - seam to seam
Measure at edge of relaxed elastic on back leg from side seam

to inseam, along curve
Code: 517
LEG OPENING -relaxed inside measurement
Measure on the half. Straighten leg opening keeping the elastic

edges even, measure at edge of relaxed elastic.

LEG OPENING
Code: 344
LEG OPENING - liner - relaxed
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - measured on the half. Align front and back leg elastic.
Measured at the leg elastic along the edge. vv v v v v vvvvvvvvvvvvv
vvv
vvvvvvvvvv v vv
vvvvvv v v v v
v vv v
vvv vv
vv vvv
vvvvvv
vvv
vvv
vvvv
vv vv
vvv vv
v v v v v v v vvvvv
vvv
vvv
vvv
vvv vvv
vv vvv
vv vvvv
vv
vv vv
vvv
vvvv v
vvvvvvv
Code: 345
LINER LEG OPENING - minimum stretched
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - measured on the half. Measured at the elastic

opening along the edge. Garment laid smooth and gently pulled. All fullness vvv
needs to be removed but the fabric must not be stretched. vv v vv v vvvvvvvvvvvvv

vv
v
vvv
vv
vvvvvvvvvv vvv
vvvvvv v v v vv
v vvv
vvv
vv vvv
vvvvvv
vvv
v vv
vvvv
vv vv
vvv v v v v v v v vvvvvvvv
vvv
vvv
vvvvvvv
vvv
vvv
vv
vv vvv
vv vvv
vv vv
vvv vvv
vvvvvvvvvvv v
vv
Code: 520
LEG OPENING - stretched
INSIDE MEASUREMENT - measured on the half. Measured

at the elastic opening along the edge. Garment laid smooth
and gently pulled. All fullness needs to be removed but
the fabric must not be stretched.
Code: 521
LEG OPENING - minimum stretched
INSIDE MEASUREMENT- minimum stretched at hem of tight to go over foot.

STIRRUP LENGTH
Code: 360
STIRRUP LENGTH
Measured on the half. Measure from bottom edge of leg opening to folded edge of stirrup.
Code:

INSEAM
Code: 320 A B
INSEAM - pant
CF CB
A: Measured rise seam to bottom hem.
B: Gusset - measured gusset seam to bottom hem.
Code: 321
INSEAM - short - longer than 2" (5 cm) A B
A: Measured rise seam to bottom hem.
B: Gusset - measured gusset seam to bottom hem.
CB
CF
Code: 322
INSEAM - short - 2" (5 cm) or less
Measured hem edge to hem edge.

INSEAM
Code: 522
THONG WIDTH - 5" from inseam
Measured 5" (12.5cm) from inseam seam on back. Measured from elastic
edge to elastic edge.
Code: 341
INSEAM - across narrowest point X" from seam
Measured X" distance from inseam on front. Measured

from elastic edge to elastic edge.
vvvv vv v v v v v vvv
vv vv vv vv
vvv vv vv
vv vv
vvvvvvvvv v vvv vvv vvvvvvvvvvvvv
vv vv
vv vv
vv vv
vvvvvvv vv vv
vvv vvv
v vv vvv
vv vv v vvvvv
vvvv v vvv vvv v
vvv vvvv
v v v v v v v v vv
v v vvvv
vv vvvv v v v v v v v v v vv
vvv vvvv
vv
vv vv
vv vv
vv vvv
vv
vv
vvv
vvvvvvv
vv
vv v v v vv vv vvvv
vvv X"
vvv
Code: 523
INSEAM - at seam
Measured from elastic edge to elastic edge at seam.
v v vv vv v v vv vv
vv vv vv vvvv
vv v vv
vvvvvvvvvvvv vv vv vvvvvvvvvvvvv
vv vvvvvv
vv vvv
vvv vvv
vvv vv v
vv
vvvvv v vv vvvvv
v
vvvv v vvv vvv v vvvv
vv v v v v v v v v v v vvv
vvv v v vvv
vvv vv
v vv
vv vvv v v v v v
vv vv
vv vv
vv
vv vv
vv vvv
vvv
vvvvvvv v vvvv vvvv

OUTSEAM
Code: 325
OUTSEAM - pant - top of waistband to bottom hem A B
Garment laid on side with outseam directly on top of inseam.
Smooth out wrinkles.
A: Side seam - measured from top of waistband to bottom hem

along seam.
B: Side seamless - measured straight from top of waistband to

bottm hem along natural fold.
Code: 326
OUTSEAM - short - top of waistband to bottom hem
Garment laid on side with outseam directly on top of inseam. Smooth out wrinkles.
A: Side seam - measured from top of waistband to botom A B

hem along seam.
B: Side seamless - measured straight from top of

waistband to bottom hem along natural fold.

OUTSEAM
Code: 327
OUTSEAM - running short - top of waistband to box end
Garment laid on side with outseam directly on top. Smooth out wrinkles.
Measured from top of waistband to box end.
Code: 342
OUTSEAM - top of waistband to leg opening
Measured from top of waistband to leg opening.
vvv v vv v v v v v vvv
vv vv vv
vv vv vv
vv vv v vv
vv vv vvvvvvvvvvvvvv
vvvvvvvvv vvv v
vv
vv vvvvv
vv vvv
vvv vvv
vvvvvv vvv vv
v vv
vv vvv vvvvv
vvvv v vvv
vvv v
vvv
vvv v v v v v v v v v v vvvv
vvv v v vvv
vv
vvv vv
vv vvvv v v v v v vv
vv vv
vv vv
vv vvv
vv vv
vvv vv vvv
vv v v
vvvvvvv v vv vv vvvvvvv
Code:

SKIRT LENGTH
Code: 355
FRONT LENGTH - top of waistband to bottom of hem
Measured straight from top of waistband to bottom hem at front.
Code: 356
SIDE LENGTH - top of waistband to bottom of hem
Measured straight from top of waistband to bottom hem at side.
Code: 357
BACK LENGTH - top of waistband to bottom of hem
Measured straight from top of waistband to bottom hem at back.

RISE LENGTH
Code: 330
FRONT RISE LENGTH - top of waistband to seam A B
A: Measured from top of center front waistband to inseam,

follow straightened seam. Do not stretch rise seam.
B: Gusset - measured from top of center front waistband

to point of gusset.
A
Code: 331
BACK RISE LENGTH - top of waistband to seam A B
A: Measured from top of center back waistband to inseam,

follow straightened seam. Do not stretch rise seam.
B: Gusset - measured from top of center back waistband

to point of gusset.
A
Code: 340
LINER RISE - top of waistband to fold
Pull liner out of garment and flip waistband up. Align front and back waistband.
Measured from top of waistband to fold. All fullness of the liner needs to be
removed in the leg elastic area but the fabric must not be stretched.
vvv v vv v v v v v vvv
vv vv vv
vv vv vv
vv vv v vv
vv vv vvvvvvvvvvvvv v
vvvvvvvvv vv v
vvv
vv vv
vv vv
vv vvv
vvvvvv vvvvvvv vvv
vv
v vv vvvvv
vvv
vvvv v vvv
vvv v
vvvv
vvv v v v v v v v v v v vvvv
vvv v v vv
vv
vvv vvv
vvvv v v v v v
vv vv
vv vv
vv vv
vv vv
vv vv
vvv vv vvv
vvvvvvv
vv v v v vv vv vvvvvvv

GUSSET
Code: 335 CF RISE
GUSSET - center front rise seam to center back

rise seam
INSEAM INSEAM
Measured straight, point to point, across gusset from

center front rise seam to center back rise seam. CB RISE
* Measure to center of stitching on flatseamed garments. CF RISE
INSEAM INSEAM
CB RISE
Code: 336
GUSSET - inseam to inseam
Measured straight, point to point, across gusset from

inseam to inseam.
CF RISE
INSEAM INSEAM
CB RISE
Code: 337
GUSSET - hem to hem
CF RISE
Measured straight, point to point, across gusse from hem
to hem at center.
CB RISE

Page # 60
Apparel Product Integrity Manual – Appendix H
Defect Classification
Classification of Defects
The table on the following pages lists specific defects which render an
article less than first quality and is used to identify problems during visual
inspection. Any significant deviation from the specification will also
constitute a defect. Although this list endeavors to be specific, there will
always be a point at which the evaluation becomes subjective. This list does
not include all possible defects. It is meant only to classify defects into
general categories. The defect codes are for internal NIKE use only.
100 Fabric
Code Defect
101 Slub / Knot
102 Barré
103 Hole
104 Fabric Run
105 Yarn Contamination
106 Snag
107 Torque / Skew
108 Bleeding / Color Migration
109 Shading
110 Dyeing / Finishing Streaks
111 Yellowing of White Fabric
199 Miscellaneous Fabric Defects
200 Construction
Code Defect
201 Broken / Drop / Skip Stitch
202 Raw Edge / Frayed Seam
203 Open Seam
204 Overrun Stitch
205 Incorrect Tension
Page 1 06/16/2003
206 Uneven / Wavy Stitching
207 Missing / Insecure Component, Trim or Label
208 Puckering / Pleating
209 Needle Hole
210 Needle Chew
211 Twisted, Roping or Uneven Hem
212 Conspicuous Repair
213 Shading - within garment
214 Incorrect Color Combination
215 High/Low Pocket or Shoulder
216 Construction not as specified
217 Untrimmed Thread
218 Incorrect/ Inconsistent Stitch Count
219 Incorrect Placement
299 Miscellaneous Construction Defects
300 Trims
Code Defect
301 Trim Broken
302 Trim Inoperable
303 Incorrect Color
304 Incorrect Size
305 Trim not as specified
306 Trim Bleeding / Color Migration
399 Miscellaneous Trim Defects
400 Embellishments
Code Defect
401 Unraveling
402 Peeling / Cracking
403 Poor Coverage
404 Poor Registration
Page 2 06/16/2003
405 Not Cured
406 Incorrect Color
407 Incorrect Size
408 Incorrect Placement
409 Poor Adhesion
410 Improper Backing Removal
411 Untrimmed Thread
412 Hoop, Screen or Plate Marks
413 Ink Smear
414 Embellishment Missing
415 Embellishment not as specified
499 Miscellaneous Embellishment Defects
500 Wash / Finish/ Dye
Code Defect
501 Poor Pressing (including shine, moiré, color change, scorching, etc.)
502 Damp (bag, condensation, mildew)
503 Offensive Odor
504 Excessive Fraying / Pilling
505 Excessive Residual Debris (stones, sand)
506 Garment Wash/Dye Shading
507 Garment Wash/Dye not within Color Standard (see shade band)
599 Miscellaneous Wash / Finish Defects
600 Cleanliness
Code Defect
601 Soil
602 Oil
603 Unattached or Loose Threads
604 Foreign Objects (pins, needles, staples, stickers etc. not removed)
699 Miscellaneous Cleanliness Defects
Page 3 06/16/2003
700 Packaging
Code Defect
701 Missing/Incorrect Information on Polybag
702 Incorrect Polybag Size
703 Carton Contents Incorrect
704 Incorrect Carton Count
705 Overpacked / Underpacked Carton
706 Missing / Incorrect UPC Labels, Price Tickets, Hangtag, etc.
707 Mixed Sizes
708 Foreign Objects (staples, pins, needles, bugs, etc)
709 Damaged or Open Polybag
799 Miscellaneous Packaging Defects
800 Measurements
Code Defect
801 Waist
802 Hip Width
803 Front / Back Rise
804 Outseam / Inseam
805 Liner Rise
806 Body Length
807 Body Width
808 Body Sweep
809 Sleeve Length
810 Neck Opening
811 Neck Minimum Stretch
812 Logo Placement
899 Miscellaneous Measurement Defects
900 Nike Caused Defects
Code Defect
901 Soiled
Page 4 06/16/2003
902 Box Knife Cut
903 Ink / Pen Marks
904 Design / Development Issue
905 Incorrect Fit / Sizing
999 Miscellaneous Nike Caused Defects
Page 5 06/16/2003
Apparel Product integrity Manual – Appendix I
Materials Defect Classification
Definition: A defect is a flaw in the fabric which renders a garment second

quality and substantially lowers the value of the product.
Common defects observed during inspection are listed below. This is a

partial list and is to be used as a general guideline. The vendor or factory
may define more types of defects than are listed here.
Yarn
1.01 Slubs
1.02 Barre
1.03 Uneven Yarn (thick & thin)
1.04 Yarn Contamination (foreign substance)
1.05 Dead Cotton
1.99 Other
Construction
2.01 Missing Line
2.02 Holes
2.03 Reed Mark
2.04 Streaks
2.05 Stop Mark
2.06 Knots
2.07 Mis-weave / Mis-knit pattern
2.99 Other
Dyeing
3.01 Shading (Color variation within width and length)
3.02 Dye Spots / Dye Streaks
3.03 Color Tone
3.99 Other
Finishing
4.01 Hand / feel
4.02 Bowing
4.03 Skewing

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NIKE API Manual Module 1 Overview of Apparel Product Integrity

Apparel Product Integrity Manual

© NIKE, Inc. 2003

Revised: July 2003 Page 1

© 2003 NIKE, Inc.

Revised: July 2003 Page 2

Apparel Product Integrity

Module 1: Overview of Apparel Product Integrity

Module 2: Apparel Quality Process Manual

Module 3: Materials Quality Process Manual

Appendix A: Acknowledgement and Continuing

Appendix B: Supplier Quality Evaluation (SQE)

Appendix C: Certified Auditor Training Manual

Appendix D: Materials Inspection Manual

Appendix E: SSR Ranking Criteria

Appendix F: VQR Ranking Criteria

Appendix G: Apparel Measurement Manual

Appendix H: Apparel Defect Classification Guide

Appendix I: Material Defect Classification Guide

Revised: July 2003 Page 3

Revised: July 2003 Page 4

Overview of Apparel Product Integrity

• Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are effective

API’s Mission Statement

Revised: July 2003 Page 5

NIKE’s Quality Philosophy

API Global Director

API Global API Global API Region

API Hub Directors

API Category Customer Service

LO (Hub & Spoke)

LO (Hub & Spoke)

Revised: July 2003 Page 6

NIKE API’s philosophy is based on the following principles:

• Plan for Defect-Free Performance

API defines quality as Conformance to Requirements, where our Consumers

Revised: July 2003 Page 7

Model of API Prevention System

Figure 2: API Prevention System Model

Revised: July 2003 Page 8

Vendor Quality Process

Factory Quality Process

Metrics & Strategic Reporting

Revised: July 2003 Page 9

Revised: July 2003 Page 10

Apparel Quality Process Manual

Revised: July 2003 Page 1

The processes depicted in bold are described

New Supplier Evaluation

These processes described in the pages that

Revised: July 2003 Page 2

New Supplier Evaluation

NIKE representatives may also perform separate Manufacturing, and Corporate

Continuing Product Guaranty

Revised: July 2003 Page 3

Production Representative Sales Samples

Qualified Reference Sample (QRS)

Revised: July 2003 Page 4

product or manufacturing location must be created. For carry-over styles with no