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    MattK - Bird Photo Quick Guide

    Uploaded by

    Beto Espinoza
    guia rapida de fotografía de aves

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    MattK - Bird Photo Quick Guide

    Uploaded by

    Beto Espinoza
    3 views3 pages
    guia rapida de fotografía de aves

    Original Title

    MattK_Bird-Photo-Quick-Guide

    Copyright

    © © All Rights Reserved

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    PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

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    guia rapida de fotografía de aves

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    3 views3 pages

    MattK - Bird Photo Quick Guide

    Uploaded by

    Beto Espinoza
    guia rapida de fotografía de aves

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 3

    BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY

    QUICK REFERENCE
    FIELD GUIDE

    #1: SHUTTER
    SPEED (PERCHED)
    Whenever I see a blurry photo chances
    are it's because the shutter speed is too
    low. For perched birds, I recommend 1
    over the focal length. So if you're at
    400mm, then at least 1/400th sec is a
    good choice.

    #2: SHUTTER
    SPEED (IN FLIGHT)
    For birds in flight (BIF) it's hard to give an
    exact number because all birds are
    different. A big bird flying slowly (Pelican)
    I'll usually go with 1/1600 - 1/2000th). For
    an Eagle or Osprey diving to catch a fish,
    I'll be at least at 1/3200th.

    #3: AUTO FOCUS


    MODE
    Check your auto focus mode. For most
    moving subjects you'll want to be in a
    continuous auto focus mode (AF-C or
    Servo) so that the camera continually tries
    to focus while you're shooting.

    #4: AUTO FOCUS


    AREA
    The Auto Focus area is where the camera
    will look for a subject. Generally for birds
    I'll be on a center "zone" or a "wide" area
    of focus, and try to keep the subject as
    close to center as possible - but because
    you gave it a larger AF "area" you'll have
    some room for error, that you wouldn't
    have if it were a single point like you'd use
    in landscapes.

    SOURCE: MATTK.COM/WILDLIFE
    QUICK
    REFERENCE
    FIELD GUIDE

    #5: AUTO ISO


    Consider turning on Auto ISO so that, as
    the light changes, you don't have to
    change ISO settings. Read up on this for
    your camera, but it's a great tool to have
    on a semi-cloudy day with the sun going in
    and out of the clouds or rapidly changing
    light.

    #6: SUN AT YOUR


    BACK
    Whenever possible, keep the sun behind
    you when photographing birds. That
    means the light will be on the birds
    approaching you. If not, and you're
    shooting in the direction of the sun, the
    bird will most likely be really dark and void
    of detail.
    PS: This is VERY difficult to fix on the
    computer later (if not impossible).

    #7: WIND AT
    YOUR BACK
    Birds tend to fly, land, and take off
    against the wind. So if you're
    photographing birds, you'll want to try to
    have the wind against your back which
    means the birds should fly towards you.
    A good rule of thumb... you "usually" want
    an East wind in the morning (see the sun
    rule above), and more of a West wind in
    the late afternoon.

    #8: ADUST
    SETTINGS BEFORE
    YOU LEAVE
    Adjust your settings before you leave the
    house. I was recently out photographing
    Eagles and the first eagle appeared
    before anyone thought. One person in the
    group was ready, and the rest of the
    group missed an amazing shot, because
    they hadn't dialed in the right settings yet.

    SOURCE: MATTK.COM/WILDLIFE
    QUICK
    REFERENCE
    FIELD GUIDE

    #9: KEEP
    SHOOTING!
    When bird in flight action is happening
    around you (especially if they're feeding)
    try to keep shooting after you think the
    magic moment has happened. Often, other
    birds will swoop in and small squabbles or
    battles will occur. I've put my camera
    down too many times and missed some
    incredible moments.

    #10: GET LOW


    It's not always possible, but
    photographing on the bird's eye level
    can be a very powerful image. That
    doesn't mean you have to be low. I've
    put my camera on the ground before
    and extended the LCD screen so I could
    frame up photos and they often are
    some of my favorites.

    #11: LOOK FOR


    BACKGROUND
    SEPARATION
    Always be on the look out for background
    separation. Often your f-stops are limited
    by the lens and gear you have. So
    shooting at f/1.8 (which helps with blurry
    backgrounds) with a 400mm lens isn't
    possible. But if you can put some distance
    between the bird and its background,
    you'll be able to get those beautiful
    buttery smooth backgrounds.

    #12: FRAMING
    This one may get me in trouble with the
    cropping police but...
    I simply suggset just trying to keep the
    bird in the center of the frame. Trying to
    nail the composition of a bird in flight is
    tough. Practice smooth panning, tuck your
    arms in close, relax and just try to keep the
    bird centered. Your auto focus zone (if you
    choose center) will work great and you
    can always crop creatively later on the
    computer.

    SOURCE: MATTK.COM/WILDLIFE

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