OBSESSED WITH QUALITY YARN SINCE 1952

Design: Maria Bach Jensen //Sanastrik

English translation: June Thomsen Oxford 1st edition - August 2023 © filcolana
#FilcolanaOxford

St Catherine’s College in Oxford was designed by Arne Jacobsen and built in 1962.
The college is a striking landmark in the old university town, which consists primarily of Gothic
buildings with pointed arches and massive stone walls. St Catherine’s College is a modernist building
constructed in concrete and steel creating sleek, stringent lines. Instead of hiding the load-bearing
concrete inside the building, the elements are exposed and highlighted as sculptural elements. The
library in particular showcases how Jacobsen created architecture with a focus on minimalism.

SIZES MATERIALS
S (M) L (XL) Yarn from Filcolana
Colour A: 200 (200) 250 (250) g Peruvian col. 102
MEASUREMENTS (Black)
Fits chest sizes: 80-88 (89-96) 97-104 (105-112) cm Colour B: 100 (100) 100 (100) g Peruvian col. 364
Chest: 91 (102) 111 (120) cm (Chai)
Length: 52 (54) 56 (59) cm Colour C: 200 (200) 250 (250) g Peruvian col. 814
Sleeve length: 44 (44) 45 (45) cm (Storm Blue)
Colour D: 100 (150) 150 (150) g Peruvian col. 136
GAUGE (Mustard)
18 sts and 27 rows in stockinette on 5 mm needles =
10 x 10 cm. 4.5 mm and 5 mm circular needles, 80-100 cm
The gauge is measured after washing. 4.5 mm and 5 mm double pointed needles
(You will not need the double pointed needles or the
Needle sizes are for guidance only. short circular needle if you are working magic loop
If you have more stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger using a long circular needle)
needle. If you have fewer stitches on 10 cm, change to 5 mm crochet hook
smaller needles. Stitch markers
Stitch holders

filcolana © 2023 filcolana.dk

 Techniques Workflow
The sweater is knitted top-down.
ABBREVIATIONS
First, the back is knitted using European shoulder
st(s): stitch(es) construction, where short rows are worked to shape the
k: knit shoulders.
p: purl
RS: right side Then, stitches are picked up along the left shoulder of
WS: wrong side the back, and the left side of the neck is worked.
Sl1 k1 psso The same process is repeated for the right shoulder and
Slip 1 st knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped st over the RS of the neck.
knitted st.
The sides are then joined to form the front, and the rest
M1L - Left slanted increase of the front is knitted.
From the front, lift the horizontal strand between Once the front is complete, vertical lines are crocheted
stitches with the left needle and knit through the back using slip stitches on one side.
loop (1 st increase).
After that, the front and back are sewn together at the
M1R - Right slanted increase
sides, and sts are picked up for the sleeves, which are
From the back, lift the horizontal strand between the
knitted top-down.
two stitches with the left needle and knit through the
front loop (1 st increase).
Finally, sts are picked up for the bottom ribbing and
neckband, both of which are knitted in rib stitch and
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
finished with an Italian bind-off.
Short row stitch (GSR)
Slip 1st st purl-wise onto right needle with yarn in
front. Tug the yarn up and over the right-hand needle
(away from yourself). This creates a double stitch. Con-
tinue working the row as instructed in the pattern. On
next row work the double sts together as either k2tog
or p2tog depending on what the stitches indicate. This
technique is called German short rows.
Intarsia
When changing colours, the threads should be crossed
on the WS of work to avoid holes at the colour transi-
tion. Place the thread with the present colour OVER
the new colour that you will be working with, cross the
threads, tighten the new colour slightly, and continue
knitting it.
Backward loop cast on
Hold your working yarn over your right index finger,
bend the index finger towards you. This will create a
loop around your finger. Insert the tip of your right-
hand needle into the back of the new loop and release it
onto the needle. Repeat this till you have the required
number of stitches.

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 Pattern
Change to colour B and knit 8 rows of stockinette, last
row is a WS row.

Change to colour A and knit 2 rows, last row is a WS

row.
BACK
With 5 mm needles and colour A cast on 84 (94) 102 Break both colours.
(110) sts. The back is worked back and forth with 1
knitted selvedge st in each side. Now divide work in 3 colours, changing between the
3 is described in the Intarsia chapter under Special
1st row (WS): Knit all sts. techniques.
Join colour B to work. Next row (RS): Knit 24 (27) 31 (35) sts using colour
C, change to colour A and cross the colourways as
2nd row (RS): Knit all sts with col. B and break this described, knit 20 (22) 22 (22) sts, change to colour D
col. and cross the colourways as described, knit 40 (45) 49
(53) sts.
Hold work with the RS facing upwards and the cast on
edge towards yourself, from the right count 24 (29) 31 Work intarsia like this back and forth until work mea-
(35) sts, slip the sts onto the right-hand needle without sures 33 (35) 36 (39) cm in total, measure from the
working them. middle of the back, last row is a WS row.
Now work German short rows over the centre sts, like #
this: Break yarn.
1st short row (RS): Join colour B to the RS of work
and knit 36 (36) 40 (40) sts, turn work. Join colour D to the RS and knit 2 rows, last row is a
2nd short row (WS): Work 1 GSR, purl 40 (41) 45 WS row.
(46) sts, turn work.
3rd short row (RS): Work 1 GSR, knit to 5 (6) 6 (7)
sts after the short row on the previous row, turn work.
4th short row (WS): Work 1 GSR, purl to 5 (6) 6 (7)
sts after the short row on the previous row, turn work.

Continue like this and repeat 3rd and 4th short row
twice more. Repeat 3rd short row once more.

Last short row (WS): Work 1 GSR, purl to last st, k1

(selvedge st).

You have now worked 5 short rows in left side and

4 short rows in RS of work, all the short rows are now
complete, continue knitting all sts.

Knit 1 row, purl 1 row.

Join colour A to work, knit 2 rows, last row is a WS

row.

Change to colour B and work 8 rows in stockinette

(knit on RS, purl on WS), last row is a WS row.

Change to colour A and knit 2 rows, last row is a WS

row.

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Next row (RS): Knit *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * over The left side of the front if worked back and forth with
all sts. 1 knitted selvedge st in each side.

Next row: Knit all sts. Knit 7 rows of stockinette, last row is a WS row.

Repeat these last 2 rows till section in col. D measures Join colour A to work and knit 2 rows, last row is a WS
4 cm, last row is a WS row. row.

Join colour A to work and purl 4 rows, last row is a WS Change to colour B, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, last row is a
row. WS row.

Change to colour A and purl 2 rows, last row is a WS Now work increases towards the neck, like this:
row. Next row (RS): K1 (selvedge st), M1L, knit all sts.

Change to colour A and, from the RS, purl 1 row. Next row: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Join colour B to work and knit 6 rows in reverse stock- Knit these 2 rows 11 times in total, and AT THE
inette (purl on RS, knit on WS), last row is a right-side SAME TIME, when you have worked 8 rows using
row. Break col. B. colour B, join colour A to work and knit 2 rows.

Change to colour A and knit 1 row (from the WS). Continue this stripe pattern of 8 rows of stockinette
in colour B and 2 rows in colour A till all 11 increases
On next row bind off all sts in knit. have been worked and you have 35 (40) 42 (46) sts on
# your needles, last row is a WS row.

FRONT Break yarn and let the sts rest on a stitch holder.
Left front
Lay the back flat in front of you and with colour B and Right front
5 mm needles, pick up 24 (29) 31 (35) sts along the Place the back flat in front of you and with colour B and
left shoulder. 5 mm needles pick up 24 (29) 31 (35) sts along the
right shoulder.

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The RS of the front is worked back and forth with
1 knitted selvedge st in each side.

Knit 7 rows of stockinette, last row is a WS row.

Join colour A to work and knit 2 rows, last row is a WS

row.

Change to colour B, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, last row is a

WS row.

Now increase towards the neck opening, like this:

Next row (RS): Knit to last st, M1R, k1 (selvedge st).

Next row: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Knit these 2 rows 11 times in total, and AT THE

SAME TIME, when you have worked 8 rows using
colour B, join colour A to work and knit 2 rows.

Continue this stripe pattern of 8 rows of stockinette

in colour B and 2 rows in colour A till all 11 increases
have been worked and you have 35 (40) 42 (46) sts on
your needles, last row is a WS row.

Do not break yarn.

Joining the fronts Vertical stripes

Next row (RS): Knit 35 (40) 42 (46) sts on the right Weave in all loose ends on the front and the back.
front, cast on 14 (14) 18 (18) sts using the backward With colour A and a 5 mm crochet hook, crochet
loop cast on technique in continuation of the right 4 vertical stripes in slip stitches on the D-coloured part
front, and knit the 35 (40) 42 (46) sts on the left front of the front, like this:
= 84 (94) 102 (110) sts in total.
1st vertical chain (closest to the edge): Start at the
Knit these 3 rows in stockinette, last row is a WS row. textured section in col. D and crochet a row of slip
sts in the gap between the 6th and 7th st on the front,
Join colour A to work and knit 2 rows, last row is a WS counted from the edge. Finish at the top of the first
row. A-coloured garter ridge (the original cast-on edge) of
the shoulder.
Next row (RS): Knit 40 (45) 49 (53) sts using colour
D, 20 (22) 22 (22) sts using colour A, and 24 (27) 31 2nd vertical chain: Start at the textured section in col.
(35) sts using colour C. D and crochet a row of slip sts in the gap between the
12th and 13th st on the front, counted from the edge.
Work the front with these cololurs, till work measures Finish at the 2nd A-coloured garter ridge, counted
26 (28) 29 (32) cm from center of front. Lasty row is a from the original cast-on edge, of the shoulder.
WS row.
3rd vertical chain: Start at the textured section in col.
Work rest of front as the back from # to #. D and crochet a row of slip sts in the gap between the
18th and 19th st on the front, counted from the edge.
Finish at the 3rd A-coloured garter ridge, counted
from the original cast-on edge, of the shoulder.

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4th vertical chain: Start at the textured section in Repeat rows 3 and 4 till you have turned 5 times in total
col. D and crochet a row of slip sts in the gap between in each side.
the 24th and 25th st of the front, counted from the
edge. Finish at the 4th A-coloured garter ridge, count- Last short row (RS): Work 1 GSR, knit to start
ed from the cast-on edge. marker.

Finishing Continue in the round till the sleeve measures 4 cm,

Sew the back and the front together at the sides, using measured from the picked up sts at the bottom of the
mattress sts. Start at the bottom and continue upwards armhole.
till the armhole measures 20 (21) 22 (23) cm.
Next round (decrease round): K1, sl1 k1 psso, knit
SLEEVES to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
From the RS and starting at the top of the shoulder,
using a 5 mm needle and colour C, pick up 36 (38) 40 Repeat this decrease round 8 times in total for every
(42) sts along the armhole, to the bottom of the arm- 4 cm, and AT THE SAME TIME, when the sleeve
hole, place a start marker, and pick up 36 (38) 40 (42) measures 26 (26) 27 (27) cm from the bottom of the
sts along the other side = 72 (76) 80 (84) sts. armhole, break colour C, join colour B to work.

Now work short rows back and forth like this: Here after work the decreases as either k2tog or p2tog
1st short row (RS): K6, turn work. as pattern indicates.
2nd short row (WS): Work 1 GSR, p11, turn work.
3rd short row (RS): Work 1 GSR, knit to 5 sts after Purl 5 rounds, break colour B.
the short row on previous row, turn work.
4th short row (WS): Work 1 GSR, purl to 5 sts after Join colour D to work and purl 2 rounds.
the short row on previous row, turn work.
Next round: Knit rib (k1, p1) over entire round.

Next round: Purl all sts.

Work the last 2 rounds 4 times in total.

Join colour A to work and purl 1 round, knit 1 round,

purl 1 round, knit 1 round.

Change to colour D and purl 1 round, knit 1 round,

break colour D.

Change to colour A and purl 1 round.

Change to colour B and purl 5 rounds, break colour B.

Change to colour A and purl 1 round.

Change to 4.5 mm needles and knit 1 round.

Rib
Knit 2x2 ribbing (k2, p2) till the ribbing measures
3 cm.

Then work 1x1 ribbing (k1, p1) for 7 cm.

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Bind off in Italian bind off. FINISHING
Break the yarn, leaving a length approx. 3 times the Weave in all loose ends.
length of the ribbing that needs to be bound off. Thread
a tapestry needle with the yarn end. Fold the neckband to the WS and sew it onto the neck
1. Insert the needle into the first knit stitch on the left opening with slightly loose sts.
needle as if to purl, pulling the yarn through.
2. Insert the needle between the first and second stitch- Wash the sweater according to the washing
es from the back to the front. instructions on the labels and lay it flat to dry on a
3. Insert the needle through the second stitch from the towel.
front to the back.
4. Insert the needle into the first stitch as if to knit and
slip the stitch off the needle.
5. On the front side, insert the needle from right to left
into the front loop of the second stitch, pulling the yarn
through.
6. Insert the needle into the first stitch as if to purl and
slip the stitch off the needle.
Repeat steps 2-6 until there is 1 purl stitch left on the
left needle.
Finish:
7. From the RS, insert the needle from right to left into
the first bound-off stitch, pull the yarn through.
8. Repeat step 7.
Weave in the end carefully.

Knit the 2nd sleeve the same way.

The body ribbing hem

From the RS and with 4.5 mm needles and colour A,
pick up 164 (184) 200 (216) sts along the bound off
sts on the body. Join round.

Work 2x2 rib (k2, p2) till the ribbing measures 3 cm.

Then knit 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 7 cm.

Bind off in Italian bind off.

NECKBAND
From the RS and with 4.5 mm needles and colour A,
pick up 92 (92) 100 (100) sts along the neck opening,
begin at center of the back.

Knit 2x2 rib (k2, p2) in the round till the ribbing mea-
sures 3 cm.

Then work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 7 cm.

Then work 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 3 cm.

Bind off in rib.

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