Test properties that apply to Denim fabrics and Denim garments during development.

Additional test lines to be tested as per the TPDD Woven Package.

Test at original stage only for washed denim garment

Target Denim Definition: Warp faced, twill (woven), fabric traditionally woven with colored warp and white fill. Modern denims include colored warp and their fill yarns. Traditional denim
will appear colored on the face and white on the back. The twill lines are an important indicator as well.

Knits Wovens / Leather & Suede

Finished fabric weight

(for all fabrics except all-over embroidered fabrics,
outerwear and laces) As Specified in Spark + 10% / - 5% As Specified in Spark : +/- 5%
ASTM D3776, Option C Burnouts +10%/-10% Pass / Fail is Based upon each repetition PASS/Fail is
For Denim only: Conduct fabric weight testing before Pass / Fail is Based upon each Based on each repetition before wash. After 3HL washes
and after 3HL wash at 105F. Pass Fail based on after repetition report results as data only
wash.

Dimensional Changes of Fabrics, AATCC 135-2012

For Denim only --Use 105F and conduct testing after 3HL
Use Target recommended care first, if fails then use supplier/vendor recommended care
Recommended Care Fabric
Instructions for Fabric Shrinkage Fabric Shrinkage
Fiber Blend Fabric Construction Shrinkage (non-stretch) (stretch)

Machine Wash Warm,

Piece Dyed, Yarn Dyed 3X3 5X5
Tumble Dry Medium

Machine Wash Warm,

Corduroy, Velveteen & Woven Terry 5X5 5X5
CVC Tumble Dry Medium
(Cotton)

Bouclé, Dobby, Flannel, Gauze, Jacquard, Seersucker, Voile & all- Machine Wash Warm,
5X5 5X5
over embroidered fabric Tumble Dry Low

Dimensional Changes of Fabrics, AATCC 135-2012

For Denim only --Use 105F and conduct testing after 3HL
Use Target recomemended care first, if fails then use supplier/vendor recommended care
Fiber Blend Fabric Construction Required care instructions* Fabric Shrinkage for Suppliers
Machine Wash Warm,
Jersey 6X6
Tumble Dry Medium

Machine Wash Warm,

CVC 1X1 rib, Interlock 7X7
Tumble Dry Low
(Cotton)

Machine Wash Warm,

French terry, fleece, pile knits (terry, velour) 7X7
Tumble Dry Low

For Denim only*: Conduct the tensile & tearing tests both before & after wash.

Fabric Strength Standards for Denim*

Before wash report results as PASS/FAIL. After 3HL report results as data only.

Minimum Minimum
Standards for Standards for
Denim Fabrics Denim Garments
Fabric Weight Warp Warp
WOVEN Property
oz./yd2 (lbs.)
Fill (lbs.)
(lbs.)
Fill (lbs.)

≤ 4.5 60 35 50 25
Tensile Strength 4.6-6.0 75 45 65 30
ASTM D5034 6.1-9.0 115 55 80 40
(Report actual Data) 9.1-12.0 125 75 90 50
Denim* - all fiber contents >12.0 150 100 110 65
(see Denim definitions below) ≤ 4.5 2.8 2.2 2.5 2
4.6-6.0 4.2 3.0 3.5 2.5
Tear Strength ASTM D1424
6.1-9.0 6.8 4.8 5.0 3.0
(Report actual Data)
9.1-12.0 7.8 5.8 5.5 4.0
>12.0 8.8 6.8 7.0 5.0

Fabric Strength Standards for Knit

Fabric Strength
Fabric Strength
for
for Suppliers
Suppliers /
Please see below definitions for
further clarification
Fabric Weight Recommended Minimum
KNIT Property
(gsm) Standards for Standards Fabric

≤ 150.0 35 30
All knit fabrics, all fiber types
Bursting Strength
excluding below
ASTM D3786
 All knit fabrics, all fiber types
Bursting Strength 45 40
excluding below 150.1 - 250.0
ASTM D3786

> 250.0 55 50

Stretch and Recovery for Denim

If no Elastomer* content: do not test.

If sample as received fails: report original results as "Data Only" and proceed with retesting of a
new sample after laundering.

After one laundering per care instructions – Pass / Fail based on washed fabric
*Elastomer- Material that has inherent stretch, e.g. Spandex, Lycra®Spandex, XLA, Elasterell-p

Stretch / Recovery
ASTM D2594 (Modified)
STRETCH WEFT KNITS ONLY (does not apply to
Stretch/Course Direction Only
intimates) Elastomer Content: < 10% :
(WEFT KNITS ONLY)
After 2 hour extension, Measure Time using 60 minutes.
Report both growth and recovery.
Pass or fail based on growth.
Growth: Max. 7% (for sweaters) & Max. 5% (for all other knits)

Elastomer Content: > 10%: After 2 hour extension, measure time using 60 seconds.
Report both growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on recovery.
Recovery: Minimum 85%

If no Elastomer* content: do not test.

If sample as received fails: report original results as "Data Only" and proceed with retesting of a
new sample after laundering.

After one laundering per care instructions – Pass / Fail based on washed fabric
*Elastomer- Material that has inherent stretch, e.g. Spandex, Lycra®Spandex, XLA, Elasterell-p
ASTM D3107 (Modified)
Stretch Direction Only
(WOVENS ONLY)
Stretch / Recovery Elastomer Content:
STRETCH WOVEN FABRICS ONLY 1-5%: Measure Time Dependent Growth and Recovery using 30 minutes.
Note: If sufficient material for testing Report extension, growth, and recovery to specified tension and specified extension
cannot be obtained, the lab shall request Pass or fail based on fabric growth after stretching to a Specified Extension . Growth: Max. 7%
additional samples, excluding trim that
does not touch the skin when worn.
Above 5%: Measure Time Dependent Growth & Recovery using 30 minutes.
Report extension, growth, and recovery to specified tension and specified extension
Pass or fail based on fabric growth after stretching to a Specified Extension . Growth: Max. 5%

Report the following:

i. Fabric Stretch % After 10 Sec. & After 30 Min.
ii. Fabric Growth (%) After 85% Extension - After 30 Min
iii. Fabric Recovery (%) After 85% Extension - After 30 Min

COLORFASTENESS - AATCC Gray Scale / Spectrophotometer are used for ALL color staining evaluations. The light source is daylight.
Colorfastness testing should not be conducted on PFD (Prepared for dye fabrics)

Conduct the CF testing before and after 3HL. Pass/fail based on after wash”

*Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes

AATCC 23 One Cycle - class 3
Note: Rate without UV Suppressor

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach

Informational to verify care labeling
Note: Rate with UV Suppressor
(Reviewed Against Care Label)
AATCC / ASTM TS-001 (Modified)
Ratings 4.0 And Above May Not Have Bleach Warning
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Note: Rate with Ratings 3.5 and Below Require Bleach Warning
UV Suppressor

Color Change 3.0

Colorfastness to
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162
Self-Staining 4.0
(for Swimwear test shell, linings and Cover-ups only)

Dyestuff Class Dry Wet

Colorfastness to Crocking
Raised Surfaces and/or Flocking (Reactives Only) 3.5 2.0
FOR MULTIPLE COLOR PRINTS-- IF COLORS CAN BE
Saturated Shades (Reactives Only) 3.5 2.0
ISOLATED, TEST EACH COLOR INDIVIDUALLY. IF
COLORS CANNOT BE ISOLATED NOTE ON TEST Reactive, Disperse, Acid, Basic (All Others) 3.5 2.5
AATCC 8 Indigo, Vat, Sulfur, Pigment, Direct
REPORT AND TEST COLORS TOGETHER. MUST TAKE 3.0 2.0
(All Surfaces / Shades)
3 MIN. SAMPLES FOR TEST & REPORT ALL 3 Saturated shades are defined by ISO 105 A01: 1989 standard depths chart
RESULTS
Note: Rate without UV Suppressor NOTE: Requirement for Crocking in blends will be based on chief value dye type

Color Change Minimum Class 3.5

Dye transfer in storage

(Use most high contrast color fabrics/fabric trim) AATCC 163, opt 1 modified
To be tested only as needed for high contrast garments (7.1.4: 24 hrs instead of 48 hrs) Staining Minimum Class 4.0
that are synthetic rich )

o Natural fibers: 200 Degree Celsius Staining Min. 4.0

Colorfastness to Heat AATCC 133 o Synthetics/Protein: 150 Degree Celsius

Color change Min. 3.0
o Blends: Determine based on chief value
 Reactive, Disperse, Basic, Acid, or Vat Dyes 3.5
AATCC 135/150
Color Fastness to Laundering / Dry cleaning
(3 home launderings)
COLOR CHANGE Rate with UV Suppressor except dry-
(3 hand washings) Direct, Sulfur, or Indigo Dyes or Pigments 3.0
cleaning
AATCC 158 (1 Dry cleaning)
Garments with Care Labeling Noting - Wash Separately 3.5
AATCC 135/150
Color Fastness to Laundering / Dry cleaning (1 home launderings)
STAINING Rate with UV Suppressor except dry-cleaning (1 hand washings) All Other Garments 4.0
AATCC 158 (1 Dry cleaning)

Category 10 Hours
Neon Brights 2.5
Colorfastness to Light
AATCC 16 (Opt. 3)
All Others 3.5

*Colorfastness to Ozone (Denim Only)

AATCC 109 One Cycle - class 3
Note: Rate without UV Suppressor

Colorfastness to Perspiration Staining 3.0

Note: Rate without UV Suppressor AATCC 15 Self-Staining 4.0
Color change 3.5

(Colorfastness to ) Phenolic Yellowing

All swimwear, intimates, lingeries, foundations
white, cream, pastels and white-ground prints
ISO 105X18
White (solid) > 50% area, white-ground prints (5 mm or synthetic content only pass/ fail rating
Assessment of materials with potential for
larger white area), pastels, Cream color determined by ISO for Swim, Intimates and Foundation product Min. class 3.5
phenolic yellowing
105 A01 standard depth chart, column A; rows 1/25 Min class 3.5
synthetic content only > 50%

*Colorfastness to Saliva DIN 53160 2010

4.5
Note: Rate without UV Suppressor (Infants 0 - 36 Months)
Color Change 3.5
Self-Staining 4.0
Color stain on acetate 3.5
Colorfastness to Sea Water Color stain on cotton 3.5
(for Swimwear, including coverups) AATCC 106 Color stain on nylon 3.5
Color stain on polyester 3.5
Color stain on acrylic 3.5
Color stain on wool 3.5
Color stain on wool Swimwear: 2.0
Staining 3.0
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107 Self-Staining 4.0
Rate without UV Suppressor
Color change 3.5