ShopNotes

aRoll-Around Planer Stand Router Tune-Up Tips

"Tool Storage System "Vertical Raised Panel Jig
 EDITOR’S NOTE

EDITOR Donald B. Peschke

wood fibers.

T
here’s one thing you can be sure ting edge tears out the
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Douglas L. Hicks
Sooner or later a wood-
of. Now it was our turn to improve on a
MANAGING EDITOR Terry J. Strohman
worker will take a good idea and good idea. To solve both problems, we
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Richard S. Peters
make it better. Take raised panel router designed a special jig that attaches to
ASSISTANT EDITOR Tim Robertson
bits for example. the top of the router table, see page 6.
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Philip A. Totten
I’ve always thought the idea of using Two of the other projects in this issue
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Ted Kralicek a router bit to make raised panels on were also designed to solve problems
art DIRECTOR Cary Christensen the router table made sense. But I that have come up in our shop.
SENIOR ILLUSTRATOR Kurt Schultz never felt safe using large diameter (3"- PLANER STAND. When we bought
ILLUSTRATORS Will Niskanen 4") bits atthe high speed of most rout- our portable planer, I was impressed
Roger Reiland ers.(At 22,000 RPM’s the speed at the with its small size. This meant the
Mark Higdon
rim of these bits is around 230 MPH.) planer could be stored out of the way
PHOTOGRAPHER Crayola England
NEW BITS. Evidently, I wasn’t the when it wasn’t being used. But lately,
DESIGN DIRECTOR Ken Munkel only one who disliked using these large the planer seems to have gotten heav-
SENIOR DESIGNER Jan Hale Svec router Not long ago, a wood-
bits. ier and more awkward to move around
DESIGNER Kent Welsh worker named Brad Witt designed and (maybe I’m just getting older).
SHOP MANAGER Steve Curtis patented a new type of raised panel To make it easier to use (and save my
router bit. Instead of a large diameter back) we built a stand for it. The stand
CIRCULATION 3
horizontal cutter, the cutting edge is is made from one sheet of /4 " plywood
Circulation Director: Liz Bredeson Subscription
Manager: Phyllis Jessen Circulation Analyst:
oriented vertically . and can be easily wheeled around the
Rod Cain Neivsstand Sales: Kent A. Buckton (Note: Brad Witt designs and sells a shop. It even has an adjustable outfeed
PUBLISHING SERVICES variety of router accessories through extension to support long workpieces.
Associate Editor: Gordon C. Gaippe Sr. Graphic his Woodhaven catalog, see Mail Order TOOL STORAGE. There’s no doubhi
Designer: Robert H. Whitmer make wood^
Sources on page 31.) that portable power tools
CORPORATE SERVICES
These bits seemed like the perfect working easier. And like many wood-
Controller: Paul E. Gray Accounting: Laura
Thomas Bookkeeping: Julianne Spears Info.
solution, so I ordered a couple to test workers, we’ve acquired a variety of
Services Manager: JoyceMoore Electronic Pub. out. When the bits arrived I was in the power tools and accessories. The prob-
Com'dinator: Douglas M. Lidster Administra- middle of some other project. So I set lem has always been storing them.
tive Assts.: Cheryl Scott, Julia Fish Reception-
ist: Jeanne Johnson Bldg. Maint.iKen Griffith
them aside until I had some free time. Putting the tools in cases keeps them
Before I knew it several months had organized, but they’re not very accessi-
PROJECT SUPPLIES gone by and I still hadn’t found time to ble. Tools stored on a shelf are conven-

Marketing Director: Robert Murry 'Catalog AH test the bits. ient to get to, but are hard to keep
Director: Cindy Jackson Catalog Products SHOP TEST. Finally I got my chance. organized. (You’ve probably noticed
Manager: Bob Baker Project Supplies: Linda
Rick Peters (our Associate Editor) told that electric cords on power tools have
Jones Technical Support’ Jeff Janes • Systems
Operator: Linda Morrow Receptioyiist Keri Lee me he wanted to make raised panel a mind of their own and always tangle
CUSTOMER SERVICE doors for his kitchen cabinets. So I of- together like a plate of spaghetti.)
Customer Service Supervisor: Jennie Enos fered to make his raised panels using Our solution to this problem is the
Customer Service Representatives: Jennifer one of the new vertical bits. Not being Tool Storage system shown on page 24.
Murphy, Joy Johnson, Sara Kono, Ami Blan-
shan, Anna Cox, Chris Lo one to turn down free labor, Rick This system features the convenience
SHIPPING DEPARTMENT quickly agreed. of open-shelf storage and provides com-
Supervisor: Jerry Carson Fulfillment: Gloria After routing dozens of raised panels partments to keep each tool organized.
Sheehan, Don McVey, Chuck Carlson, Sylvia Carey (Rick has a large kitchen), I’m con- TOOLWORKS. Also in this issue, we’ve
ShopNotes (ISSN 1062-9696) is published bimonthly
vinced that these bits are safer to use. added a new feature —
Toolworks. The
(Jan., March, May, July, Sept., Nov.) by Woodsmith Cor- But I did run into a couple of problems. idea is to offer simple, straightforward
Grand Ave., Des Moines, 1A 50312.
poration, 2200
ShopNotes is a trademark of Woodsmith Corporation. When using these bits the workpiece information on keeping your wood-
©Copyright 1993 by Woodsmith Corporation. All
rights reserved.
is held on edge. This can make it difficult working tools in top condition. This
Subscriptions: Single Copy, $4.95. One year subscrip- to control, especially if it’s a large piece. time we take a look at how to tune up
tion (6 issues), $19.95. Tvvo years (12 issues), $35.95.
Canada/Foreign, add $4.00 per year. The other problem is the tip of the cut-
Second Class Postage Paid at Des Moines, I A and
at additional offices.
Postmaster: Send change of address to ShopNotes,
Box 11204, Des Moines, IA 50340-1204
Subscription Questions? Call 1-800-333-5854, 8am
to 5pm, Central Time, weekdays.

PRINTED IN U.S.A.

2 ShopNotes No. 9
 ISSUE NUMBER NINE

* Contents
Jointer Push Slock 4
The unique design of this push block allows you to
safely flatten the face of a board.
Raised Panel Jig page 6

Vertical Raised Panel Jig 6

All it takes to rout a professional-looking raised panel is

this shop-made jig and a vertical raised panel bit.

Router Tune-Up 10
A close look at router maintenance problems. And tips
on keeping your router in top shape.

Edgebanding Plywood 12
Three different types of veneer edging let you hide the
exposed edges on a plywood project.

Edgebanding page 12
Portable Planer Stand 16
An adjustable outfeed extension provides support for long
boards. To make easy to store, the extension “knocks
it

down’’ and the stand tilts and rolls on a set of wheels.

Table Saw: Ripping 22

and shop-built accessories for ripping a
Practical tips
workpiece safely and accurately on the table saw.

Tool Storage 24
A place for everything, and everything in its place.
That’s the idea behind this easy-to-build storage system
for your portable power tools.
Planer Stand page 16
Shop Solutions 28
Five Shop-Tested Tips: Router Bit Depth Gauge, An
Adjustment Block for your Router Table, Installing
Threaded Inserts, Squaring-Up Large Panels, and a
Cork-Bottom Sanding Block.

Lumber Grades 30
You can save money on materials for a project by using
the different grades of lumber to your advantage.

Sources 31
Hardware, project supplies, and mail order sources for
the projects in this issue. Tool Storage page 2U

No. 9 ShopNotes 3
 JIGS & ACCESSORIES

*
Jointer
Push Block
ward to push the piece over the strips shorter than the rest,
the cutterhead. And down- it’seasy to create a “pocket” for
ward to keep the board flat the back handle that’s added
against the jointer table. later, see Fig. 1.

(For more on using the push POCKET. To provide some

This push block

is designed to
A power jointer can do more
than square up the edge of
a board. It’s also the perfect tool
block, see the box on page 5.)
BODY. To distribute this pres-
sure evenly, the body (A) of the
“knuckle room” between the han-
dle and the jointer fence, the
pocket is located off-center To do .

for flattening the face of a board. push block is 12" long and IV2 "- this, start by gluing up three 12"-
help you safely
The problem is there’s no safe thick. But it’s not made from a long strips and one 9V4"-long
joint the face of place to put your hands and apply single piece of stock. Instead, strip, see Fig. 1.
a board. the pressure you need to push the it’s glued up from five 3/i"-thick BACK HANDLE. After gluing up
workpiece over the cutterhead. strips, see Fig. 1. I did this for the four strips, the next step is
To solve this problem, I made a two reasons. to make the back handle ( B),
special push block. First, by building up the body see Fig. 1. The shape of this
This push block lets you apply in strips, it’s less likely to warp or handle is patterned after the
pressure in two directions. For- twist. Second, by cutting one of handle on a bench plane so it|

4 ShopNotes No. 9
 JIGS & ACCESSORIES

pfitsyour hand comfortably.

LAY OUT SHAPE. To make the
handle, start by laying out the
shape on a piece of 3/ "-thick
4
stock, see Fig. 1. (If you prefer,

you can make a full-size pattern

by enlarging the drawing 200%
on a photo copier.)
Next, cut out the shape and
round over the edges. Note: To
ensure that the handle fits tightly
in the pocket, don't round over
the bottom edges.
ATTACH HANDLE. With the
handle complete, the rest of the
body can be assembled. This is
just a matter of gluing the handle
into the pocket. Then gluing the HEEL. After beveling the cor- FRONT HANDLE. All that's left
outside strip in place. ner, the next step is to add the to complete the push block is to
BEVEL CORNER. There's only heel ( C), see Fig. 2. The heel add the front handle (D), see Fig.
one more thing to do to complete “hooks" over the end of a board 2. This handle provides a safe
the body. To prevent the push which allows you to push it over place for your left hand as you
block from catching the cutter the cutterhead. It's made from a apply downward pressure on the
guard when jointing narrow pieces, piece of V4 " Masonite that's glued workpiece. It's just a l"-dia. hard-
I cut a 45° bevel on the front out- and screwed so it extends V4 " be- wood dowel that's glued into a
side comer of the body, see Fig. 2. low the body, see Fig. 2a. 3/4"-deep hole in the body.

Using a Push Block

The push block is designed with
a couple of things in mind. First,
it allows you to hold a board
down flat on the jointer table
throughout a cut. And second, it
keeps your hands safely away
from the cutterhead.
To do this, the heel of the push
block is “hooked" over the end of
the workpiece as you push for-
ward with the back handle, see
Fig. 1.

On a long board, the downward

pressure is provided by placing
your left hand on top of the work-
piece in back of the cutterhead.
The idea here is to maintain
consistent pressure as you feed
the workpiece underneath your
hand. When the push block is
almost touching your left hand,
transfer the pressure to the
front handle and complete the
cut, see Fig. 2.

No. 9 ShopNotes 5
 JIGS & ACCESSORIES

Vertical
Raised Panel Jig

To prevent chipout, a sliding

”
insert formsa “zero-clearance
opening around the tip of the bit.

E very so often a product

comes along that changes
the way I approach a woodwork-
vertically instead of horizontally
like on most raised panel bits.
The advantage to all this is the
behind this vertical raised panel
jig,see photo. In addition, we’ve
added several other features that
ing task. Take these vertical raised bits are safer to use because not make it easy to rout professional.4
panel bits for instance. They’re an as much of the cutting edge is looking raised panels.
excellent way to rout a decora- exposed. Instead of “sweeping” BASE. To provide a platform
tive profile on a raised panel. across a panel like the blades on a for the jig, I started work by mak-
But the unique thing about helicopter, the cutting edges on a ing a base (A), see Fig. 1. The
these bits isn’t what they do. It’s vertical raised panel bit work base clamps to your router table,
how they do it. Instead of routing more like a revolving door. so the length is sized to fit the top
a profile with the panel held flat TALL FENCE. The main re- of the table (30" in my case).
on the router table, the workpiece quirement when using these bits Since the base sits on top of
is held on its edge That’s because
. is a tall fence to support the your router table, you’ll need to
the cutting edges are oriented workpiece. That’s the basic idea make a hole for the bit to poke

Hardware
• (26) #8 x P/4“
Fh Woodscrews
• 5/16"x 1 3/4"
(1)
Carriage Bolt
• (5) 5/i6" Flat
Washers
• (4) #& x 3/4”
Fh Woodscrews
• (4) 5/w"x 3"
Hanger Bolts
• (5) S/16" Knobs

6 ShopNotes No. 9
 JIGS & ACCESSORIES

through. By cutting a short “clear-

ance" slot, the jig can be adjusted
from side to side without the bit
cutting into the base, see Fig. la.

FENCE
With the base complete, the next
step is to add the fence. The fence
is made up of three parts: two

fence sections, an insert, and a

backing plate, see Fig. 1.

FENCE sections. To prevent

th e fence sections (B) from twist-
ing, I made them from 34"-thick

pieces of plywood. And, to pro-

vide plenty of support for the
workpiece, they're 8" tall (wide).

INSERT. With the fence sec-

tions cut to size, the next step is
to add the insert (C), see Fig. 2.
To adjust the opening above the
bit, the insert slides up and down to holding the fence sections to- the plate in place, see Fig. 2.

between the fence sections (B). gether, the plate has an adjust- TRIM INSERT. Since the insert
This way, the insert backs up ment slot that lets you raise (or is pinched between the fence sec-
the workpiece and prevents lower) the insert. tions, you’ll need to trim the edges
Before attaching the plate, the so it slides easily. Then it's just a
important thing is to align the top matter of installing a carriage
terbored shank hole is drilled for and bottom edges of the fence sec- bolt, washer, and knob, see Fig. 1.
a carriage bolt that's added later. tions. This ensures that the fence ATTACH FENCE. Finally, the
BACKING PLATE. To complete rests squarely on the base. To do fence screwed to the base so
is

the fence, I added the backing this,clamp the insert between the front face is centered on the
plate (D), see Fig. 2. In addition the two fence sections and screw width of the base see Fig. lb.
,

Vertical Raised Panel Bits

Although vertical raised panel bits
,r
are only l in diameter, they still pro-
H
duce a lV2 -wide decorative profile —
the same as a horizontal raised panel
bit with a diameter of 3 V2 ". So what's
the big deal about a smaller diameter
bit that's shaped differently?
ROUTER SPEED. The biggest ad-
vantage is you can run them at full

speed — about 22,000 rpm's for a “stand-

ard" single-speed router. (All that’s re- expensive variable speed router. are available are basically the same, see
quired is a router with a V2" collet.) ROUTER TABLE. There's also an- photos above and Sources on page 31.
That's too fast for a horizontal other advantage to vertical raised The bits here have a gold-colored
raised panel bit. Not only is it scary to panel bits. Because of the smaller di- protective coating that's designed to
have a huge hunk of metal whirling ameter, you can use them without cut- reduce heat build-up and prolong the
around that fast. It seems unsafe to ting a large hole in your router table. life of the bit. However, this coating
me. To slow them down to a safe speed profiles. In spite of the differ- (and the color) may vary depending
requires either a speed control or an ences, the shapes of the profiles that on where the bits are purchased.

No. 9 ShopNotes 7
 JIGS & ACCESSORIES
Supports
After attaching the fence, the next
step is to add the supports. The
supports keep the fence at 90° to
the base and provide a framework
for the dust collection system.
SUPPORTS. The supports (E)
are just four triangular-shaped
pieces of plywood that are glued
and screwed to the base and the
back of the fence, see Fig, 3.
DUST HOOD. To collect the chips
that are produced when routing
a panel, I added a dust hood (F),
see Fig. 4. Note: You can also
use the vacuum attachment for
the router table featured in Shop-
Notes No. 1.
The dust hood is a piece of V4 "-
thick Masonite with a hole for the
end of your shop-vac hose. Screw-
ing the hood to the two middle
supports forms a “chamber” that
funnels the chips into the hose.

Weatherboards

To produce a consistent profile,

the workpiece needs to be held
tightly against the fence. One
way to apply this pressure is to
add a pair of featherboards (G),
see Drawing above and Fig. 5. SUPPORT RAIL. To elevate the “kick” the bottom into the bit and
Editor's Note This is the same
: featherboards above the height of gouge the panel.
type of featherboard we used on the bit, I added a 2"-tall (wide) After gluing and screwing the
the router table fence featured in support rail (H), see Fig. 5. Why rail to the base, it's just a matted
ShopNotes No. (A featherboard
1. not just clamp them to the base? of installing hanger bolts, wash-
is from ShopNotes
also available Because applying pressure that ers, and knobs to tighten down
Project Supplies see page 31.)
,
low on the workpiece tends to the featherboards, see Fig. 5a.

8 ShopNotes No. 9
 JIGS & ACCESSORIES
Using the Jig _
The secret to using this jig is to pass to gradually expose more of
take a series of light passes. But the bit, see Step 2 below.
unlike most router operations, NOTCH INSERT. Before making
this doesn’t involve raising the the final pass, a notch is routed in
bit between each pass. the bottom of the insert to create
Instead the bit is set to the full a “zero clearance” opening, see
height (width) of the desired pro- Step 3. This way, the insert backs
file. Then the base of the jig is up the workpiece and prevents
pivoted slightly between each chipout around the tip of the bit.

Step 1: Position Jig.

To set up the jig, position the
base on top of the router table so
the cutting edge of the bit ex-
tends Vs" in front of the fence. The
held in place by tightening
jig is
clamps on the infeed and out-
feed sides of the base. Then, with
the featherboards snug against
the back of the workpiece, a right
to left pass is made on each edge
of the panel.

Step 2: Pivot the Base.

To increase the depth of the pro-
file on each of the following
passes, pivot the base of the jig
to expose another Vs" of the cut-
ting edge. This a matter of
is just
loosening the clamp on the in-
feed side and sliding the base of
the jig toward the back of the
router table. Then retighten the
clamp and make a pass on each
edge from right to left as before.

Step 3: Lower the Insert.

Before making the final pass, the
insert is lowered onto the tip of
the spinning bit to create a notch
that’s the same shape as the cut-
tingedge. As a result of this “zero
clearance” opening, the insert
backs up the workpiece where
chipout is most likely to be a
problem —
at the shoulder of the
profile. When using a bit with a
different profile, just make a new
plywood insert.

No. 9 ShopNotes 9
 TOOLWORKS

Router igpl i

Tune-Up t, i

All it takes is a few minutes to

keep your router 'mnning
smooth and trouble-free.

f it isn't broke, don’t fix it. been avoided if Fd just taken the collet, use either a brass gun-
I That's how I've always felt time to tune up my router. cleaning brush or a nylon brush
about my router. It's so depend- (the kind used to clean percola-
for granted.
THE COLLET
able I take it tor-style coffee pots).
But recently, a bit slipped and The majority of router problems Finally, wipe all the parts clean
ruined a nice piece of wood. The you'll encounter have to do with with a soft rag and reassemble.
frustrating thing is this could have the bits. They “creep” out of the Note: Don't apply any lubricants
collet, or are difficult to install or — it may cause the bit to slip.

remove. you have these prob-

If CLEAN BITS. To keep the collet
lems, start by checking the collet. clean and smooth, it's a good idea
BEARING
The tapered sleeve
collet is a to also clean the shanks of your
BRUSH that fits in a tapered hole in the router bits. I use steel wool to
end of the router arbor, see remove any rust, resin, or small
Drawing at left. By tightening a burrs that have accumulated.
nut on the end of the arbor, the worn OUT. If cleaning doesn't
collet squeezes the shank of the solve the problem, the collet may
BRUSH bitand holds it in place. be worn out and should be re-
CAP KEEP rr CLEAN. The problem is placed. (Replacement collets are
wood chips and sawdust find available at many tool centers.)
their way into the collet and pre-
MOTOR THE BODY
HOUSING MOTOR vent it from getting a good grip
on the bit. The solution is simple. Another common problem with
Keep the end of the arbor and the routers is the two main parts of
collet clean. the body (the motor housing and
MOTOR^ To do this, remove the collet the base) often catch or bind as
SHAFT FAN from the arbor and clean out the the height of the bit is adjusted.
BLADE end of the arbor CLEAN parts. Here again the
BASE |
with a round bris- solution is keep these parts
to

r is
tle brush, see Fig. clean. Separate the motor unit
1. Then I use the from the base and clean both
brush to clean out units, see Fig. 2. Pay particular
both the inside attention to the height adjust-
/bearing
and outside of the ment mechanism, see photos on
collet, see Fig. la. the bottom of page 11.
| ARBOR
vj
COLLET NUT COLLET
BASE
PLATE
Note: To pre-
vent the brush
from scratching
LUBRICATE PARTS. To keep the
body parts sliding smoothly, I fol-
low up the cleaning with a light
the arbor and coat of dry lubricant. (Petroleum

10 ShopNotes No. 9
based lubricants attract dust and
CLEAN INSIDE AND
will gum up parts.) Most hard- OUTSIDE OF COLLET
ware stores carry a variety of dry BASE PLATE
lubricants such as silicon, Teflon,
graphite or wax.
A R30R
Of these four types, I prefer a
silicon spray. It dries quickly and
leaves behind a thin layer of lu-
bricant that won’t attract dust.
BASE PLATE. One part of the
body that’s often overlooked is

the base plate, see Fig. 2.

Scratches and grooves in the
plate create ridges and burrs that
can cause the router to “drag” as
it slides over a workpiece.

To keep the router sliding

smoothly, I sand the base plate
lightly with 220 grit sandpaper to
remove any burrs or ridges. Then
follow this with a coat of paste wax.

BRUSHES & BEARINGS

In addition to the collet and the
body, there are two other parts of
your router that may need some
attention. If your router has seen
a lot of service, you may need to
check your brushes and bearings, tor unit (where the brushes are outlet or service center and have
see Drawing on page 10. located),your brushes may need your bearings checked and re-
Although these parts don’t re- to be replaced. Replacement placed if necessary.
quire any routine cleaning or lu- brushes can be found at most tool A FINAL THOUGHT. Remember,
brication (most router bearings service centers, motor repair the short time it takes to peri-
are sealed), they eventually wear shops, and some hardware stores. odically tune up your router can
out and need to be replaced. So LISTEN. One of the most obvi- prevent many of these problems
how can you tell when they’re on ous symptoms of bearings going from occurring. The time spent
their way out? Look and listen. bad is the howling or grinding will pay off with a router that
LOOK. you notice excessive
If noise they emit. If you notice this runs well and won’t break down
sparking near the top of the mo- noise, take your router to a tool when you need it the most.

Rack and Pinion: I like to use a brass Pin and Groove: Steel wool works well Plunge Tubes: Use a soft rag to clean
brush or an old toothbrush to clean the to remove burrs and scratches that can the plunge tubes and rods. Then follow
"
“ teeth on this type of height adjuster. form on the motor housing and base. up the cleaning with a dry lubricant.

No. 9 ShopNotes 11
 TECHNIQUE

Edgebanding
Plywood
A few simple techniques and some
thin strips of veneer edging are all you
need to hide a plywood edge.

O ne of the quickest and easi-

est ways to hide the edges
of a plywood project is to apply a
wood. The only difference
the edging is applied.
GLUE-ON EDGING. The most
is how To do this, I use two fingers to
center the edging on the thick-
ness of the plywood, see Fig. 1.

strip of veneer edging or edge- traditional (and least expensive) Once the strip is in position, it's

banding. This is a thin “ribbon" of is a plain wood strip without any just a matter of sliding the slip-
wood that's about the same thick- adhesive on the back. The trick is sheet out a little at a time and
ness as a heavy piece of paper. to apply these strips without us- pressing the veneer in place.
To match the plywood of the ing a lot of clamps. One sure way IRON-ON VENEER. Another
project you're working on, ve- to create an “instant" bond is to use kind of edging comes with a layer
neer edging is available in most of contact cement, see photo A. of adhesive already on the back.
the common hardwoods like oak, But this can also be a problem if This edging is applied by melting
walnut, and cherry. the edging touches the plywood the glue with an iron, see photo B.
And to ensure there's enough before it's To keep from
aligned. Although you can buy special irons
material to cover the thickness of accidentally gluing the edging to do this, an old household iron
the edge, it comes in rolls that down in the wrong place, I use a set on highworks just as well.
vary in width from 34" to 2". (For “slipsheet." The thing to be aware of with
sources of veneer edging, see SLIPSHEET. This is just an or- iron-on edging is that the glue
page 31. There's also information dinary piece of paper that you lay doesn't set up immediately. While
on making your own on page 13.) across the edge after the contact it's in this “gooey" state, the ve-
cement skins over, see Fig. 1. The neer can slide out of alignment as
TYPES OF EDGING
slipsheet keeps the glued sur- you work your way around the
Basically, all veneer edging is faces from sticking together so edge. To prevent this, I iron one
made from thin strips of solid you can position the edging. end of the strip first. Then, after

A Glue-On Edging
. . Contact cement B. Iron-On Veneer To glue this edging
. C. Veneer Tape. This is the easiest of
creates an "instant” bond between glue- to the plywood, melt the layer of adhe- the edgings to apply. Just peel off the
on veneer edging and the plywood. sive on the back with an ordinary iron. backing and press the strip into place.

12 ShopNotes No. 9
 TECHNIQUE

letting the adhesive cool, the edg-

ing can be pulled tight and
backed” at several points.
Now it's just a matter of iron-
ing the rest of the edging. The
idea is to keep the iron moving so
it doesn't scorch the veneer, but
leave it long enough to melt the
glue. Usually, a few seconds is all

it takes to create a good bond.

SELF-ADHESIVE TAPE. One last
kind of edging is self-adhesive ve-
neer tape. This tape has a protec-
tive backing that peels off to
expose the adhesive, see photo C.
Although it costs a little more
than the other edgings, it's by far
the easiest to apply. Just strip off
the backing, position the edging
as before, and press it into place.

EDGEBANDING TIPS
Regardless of the type of veneer
edging you use, there are a few
simple tips that can keep prob-
lems from cropping up.
PREPARE EDGE. One of the here.The idea is to keep from ROLLER. Another thing you
most important things is to start rounding over the edge which can do to get a good bond be-
with a clean, flat edge. That's be- will create agap between the ply- tween the edging and the ply-
cause any stray wood fibers that wood and the edging. wood is to roll the edging after it's
get left behind end up looking like LENGTH. After preparing the applied, see Fig. 2.
a 'lump under the rug" when the edge, the edgebanding can be cut I prefer a rubber roller because
edging is applied. to rough length. To ensure that there's a certain amount of "give"
To clean up the edge, I use a the edging is long enough to in the rubber that creases the
low-angle block plane. Then I cover both ends, I cut pieces wood fibers at the top and bottom
follow up with a sanding block about 1" longer than I need and edges, see Fig. 2a. These creases
and a piece of fine grit sandpa- let the ends hang over. Then they serve as a guide when trimming
per. A light touch is all it takes can be trimmed off flush later. off the edges.

Making Veneer Edging

Ideally, the edging matches the possible. But even so, some of the
color and grain of the plywood. backing from the ply underneath
But that's not always the case with will still remain.
store-bought edging. One source This backing can give the strip
guaranteed to match is the
that's justenough "thickness" to show
veneer from the scrap pieces of up as a thin layer between the
plywood you're working with. veneer and the plywood. Also, it
RESAW VENEER. To remove tends to curl the veneer if the
this veneer, you'll need to resaw strip isn't applied immediately.
the top layer off a scrap piece of REMOVE BACKING. To prevent
plywood, see Drawing. The this, all you need to do is scrape
idea is to cut as thin a strip as (or sand) off the backing.

No. 9 ShopNotes 13
 TECHNIQUE
Trimming the Ende
After applying each piece of
edgebanding, the next step is to
trim the ends flush with the cor-
ners of the plywood.
The important thing here is to
support the edging so the over-
hanging ends don't chip or break
off. To do this, you can either

stand the piece on edge, see Fig.

3. Or if the piece is too awkward
to handle easily, back up the cut
with a block of wood.
utility knife. To make as
clean a cut as possible, I use a

utility knife with a sharp blade.

The idea is to slide the flat part of
the blade against the edge of the
plywood that's adjacent to the ve-
neered edge, see Fig. 3. This way,
the edge forms a “cutting guide"
that allows you to trim the ends
perfectly flush with the corner.
SPLICE. Trimming the end
flush on a corner is relatively sim-
ple. But what happens when you
need to “splice" two ends to- a simple technique. “waste” pieces.
gether in the middle of an edge? The idea here is to overlap the The only thing to watch out for
For example, when a long edge ends slightly and slice through is that you don't glue the bottom

requires more than one strip. Or both pieces at once, see Fig. 4. end down when you're applying
a single strip wraps around an Since the blade cuts along the the edging. Instead, leave a cou-
edge with rounded corners. exact same line on each piece, ple of inches 'Tree" at the end.
OVERLAP ENDS. To get the the two ends fit together per- Then glue it down after trimming
ends to butt tight together, I use fectly when you remove the short the ends.

Plastic T-Molding
A variation on typical wood ve-
neer edgebanding is T-molding,
see photo. Like veneer, it's also
used to cover the edge of ply-
wood. But this edging is made of
durable plastic.
T-molding is held in place by
pressing the tongue into a narrow
groove that's centered on the
edge of the plywood. Note: You'll
need a Vi6 n slot cutter bit to rout
the groove, see Drawing.
To prevent the T-molding from Plastic T-Molding is a durable edge
loosening up, the tongue has sev- treatment for plywood. To hold it in
eral small ridges that work like place, the tongue fits into a narrow
the barbs on a fish hook. groove that’s centered on the edge.

14 ShopNotes No. 9
 TECHNIQUE

Trimming the Edges

With the ends flush at the corners
of the plywood, all that’s left to do
istrim the “extra” off the top and
bottom of the edgebanding. Here
again, I use a utility knife with a
sharp blade. (There are also sev-
edge-trimming tools
eral different
available, see box below.)
To create a crisp edge, the
trick is to trim the edgebanding
as close as possible to the sur-
face of the plywood without ac-
tually cutting into it. As with
the ends, the plywood provides
a convenient cutting guide.
cutting GUIDE. The only dif-
ference is that this time the flat
part of the blade rides against the
surface of the plywood, see Fig.
5. With the blade in this position,
it’ssimply a matter of drawing
the knife along the edge to pro-
duce a smooth, even cut.
GRAIN DIRECTION. One thing
to be aware of when trimming the
edge is the grain direction of the the cutting edge of the blade. The one more thing to do.
edgebanding. That’s because the idea is to work from both ends To keep the edgebanding from
blade has a tendency to “follow” toward the problem area, see Fig. accidentally being snagged, I
the grain, especially on coarse- 6. This keeps the blade from veer- bevel the edge slightly by taking
grained woods, see Fig. 6. ing off into the edging. a few light passes with a sand-
To prevent this, I use a slightly bevel EDGE. Once the edges ing block. This also cleans up
different approach at places are trimmed flush with the sur- any glue that has squeezed out
where the grain “rises” toward face of the plywood, there’s only along the edge.

Edge Trimmers
Edgebanding doesn’t require a lot
of special tools. But when you have
a lot of edging to do, an edge-trim-
mer is handy to have around.
Basically, there are two kinds
available. One trims a single edge
at a time. And the other removes
both edges simultaneously, see
photos. (For sources of these
trimmers, see page 31.)
As an option, you can buy a
separate blade for the single-
edge trimmer that also bevels the Single-Edge Trimmer. As a fence rides Double-Edge Trimmer. Spring-loaded
edge. The double-edge trimmer against the edge, the blade on this sides on this trimmer adjust to the thick-
has a second “built-in” blade that trimmer cuts the overhanging edge ness of the plywood. Blades on each
automatically cuts the bevel. flush with the surface of the plywood. side remove both edges simultaneously.

No. 9 ShopNotes 15
 Portable
Planer
Stand
This roll-around stand features
an adjustable outfeed extension
along with an optional
storage drawer.

P ut a handle on it and call it portable. That

seems to be the idea with “portable” planers.

But weighing in at 58 pounds, my portable planer is
For
move
instance, when planing long boards, you might
over near an open door
it

onto the driveway.

— or even outside
a chore to lift and carry around. So I decided to OUTFEED EXTENSION. To make it even easier to
make it truly portable by building a roll-around plane long boards,I added an outfeed extension, see

stand for it, see photo above. photo above. The extension provides additional sup-
ACCESSIBLE & MOBILE. There are a number of port to your workpiece as it comes out of the planer.
advantages to mounting a planer to a stand. First, KNOCK-DOWN. And when it's not being used, the
it’s always accessible. I don't have to drag the outfeed extension 'knocks down.” The table lifts off,
planer out and look for a place to clamp it down. and the two support “wings” fold flat against the
Instead, it's always set up and ready to use. sides, see photo below left.
Second, adding a pair of wheels to the stand DRAWER. Finally, the stand can be fitted with an
allows you to roll it around wherever you need it. optional drawer to hold all your planer accessories.

Cutting Diagram

A The outfeed extension of the

planer stand “knocks down” for
moving and storage. The table
lifts off and the “wings" fold back.

16 ShopNotes No. 9
 FEATURE PROJECT

EXPLODED VIEW

Materials Supplies
A Sides (2) 23V2 x32 - 3/4 ply • (44) #3 x 2" FI Woodscrews
i • (6) #3 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
u
3 Top Shelf (1) 13V4x22V4- 5/4ply • (25) #10 Finish Washers • (4) 5/i6 - )<3 Threaded
C Middle Shelf (1) 15V4 x 22/4 - ply % "
• (2) IV2 x 3“ Piano Hinges Rods, 3"-long
D Sottom Shelf (1) 2P/4 x 22’/4 - 3/4 ply • (16) #5 x J'/4" Fh Wood- • (4) 5/ie" Lock Nuts
E Stretchers (4) 6 x 22 - s/4 ply screws (for piano hinges) • (4) 3^6 ” F/at Washsrs
F Outfeed Wings (2) 3x14- 3/4 ply • (1) W'-dia. 5teel Rod • (4J &/l6”
-
W/ng Nuts
G Outfeed Table (1) 2l'U x 14 - 3/4 ply 271/4" - long • (10) #3 x 3/4"Fh Wood-
H Table Supports (2) 3 x 14 - V4 Masonite • (2) 6"-d/a. Wheels* screws
1 Drawer Front (1) 57/8 x 21 7/& - 3/4 ply • (2) >/2" Push Nuts Also needed: 24" x 43"
J Drawer Sack (1) 57/8 x 203/& - 3/4 ply • (2) /2' 1
F/at Washers piece of V4"-thick Masonite
K Drawer Sides (2) 57/b x 13V4 - 3/4 ply • (2) V4"x 3/3" Bullet * Actual diameter is

L Drawer Sottom (1) 7

I 2V2 x 20 /& - V4 Mae. Catches w/Strike Plates slightly less than 6"
M Drawer Slides (2) 3/4 x 3/& - 13 • (4) T-nuts and Bolts** ** sized to fit your planer

No. 9 ShopNotes 17
 FEATURE PROJECT

The planer stand is a simple ply- ward to cut dadoes in triangular- the pieces are the same shape and
wood case: two sides dadoed to shaped pieces, I started with rec- the dadoes align.
accept three shelves. began
I tangular blanks, see Fig. 1 and To do this, carpet tape the two
work on the case by making the the Cutting Diagram on page 16. blanks together with the dadoes
tapered sides, see Fig. 1. Then I located and cut the shal- aligned, see Fig. 2. Then lay out
low (V&"-deep) dadoes for the the angled cuts. Now, using a cir-
SIDES three shelves. cular saw and a straightedge, cut
The sides (A) are shaped like flat- ANGLED CUTS. Once the dadoes the sides to shape.
Finish washers
prevent wood-
topped triangles — narrow at the have been cut, the next step is to Once the sides are tapered, use
top, and wide at the bottom for cut the sides to shape. The impor- thissame procedure to taper the
screws from dig-
stability. Since it would be awk- tant thing here is to make sure bottom edge of the sides. (This
ging too deep
provides clearance for the wheels
that will be added later to the
front of the stand.)
Finally, before separating the
sides, I rounded over all four cor-
ners, see Fig. 2a.

SHELVES
With the sides complete, work
can begin on the top (B), middle
(C), and bottom (D) shelves see ,

Fig. 3. The top provides a solid

platform for your planer. The
middle shelf under the top is a
handy place to set boards in be-
tween passes through the planer.
And the bottom can be used for
additional storage.
All three pieces are the same
length (22 W), the only difference
is their width, see Fig. 3. The
tricky part is getting each piece

18 ShopNotes No. 9
 FEATURE PROJECT

to the correct width so its edges

match the taper of the sides.
BEVEL RIP. The easiest way to
do this is to start by cutting the
pieces slightly oversize. Then
simply set each piece in its corre-
sponding dado and mark the ta-
per, see Fig. 3a. Now adjust the
blade on your table saw to match
this angle and rip each piece to
final width.
ASSEMBLY. After the shelves
have been cut, the stand can be
glued and screwed together, see
Fig. 3 and margin tip on page 18.

STRETCHERS
To strengthen the stand and pre-
vent it from racking, I added
stretchers (E), see Fig. 4. Note: If
you’re going to add the optional
drawer shown on page 21, you’ll
only need three of these. and 5a. (For sources, see page 31.) ATTACH PLANER. Now that the
The stretchers (E) are all 6" tall The wheels slip onto a V2 -dia. wheels are in place, the final step

(wide) and are cut to fit in be- steel rod that passes through the is to attach your planer to the
tween the sides. Then they’re sides.They’re held in place with stand, see Fig. 6. With the planer

glued and screwed in place, see push nuts. (A push nut is a small centered on the top shelf, mark
Figs. 4 and 4a. metal “cap” that press fits onto a and drill mounting holes. Then, I
metal rod — no threads required.) used T-nuts and bolts to secure
WHEELS Note: To prevent the wheels the planer, see Fig. 6a.
To make the planer stand easy to from rubbing against the sides, I To move the planer, just tilt the
move around, I added a pair of 6" installed washers between the stand back (like a hand cart) and

rubber utility wheels, see Figs. 5 wheels and the sides, see Fig. 5b. “wheel” it to where you need it.

No. 9 ShopNotes 19
 FEATURE PROJECT
Outfeed Extension
The outfeed exten-
sion provides addi- NOTE:
FILEOR SAND
tionalsupport for A CHAMFER
the workpiece as it ON ALL EDGES
OF STAND
exits the planer.

With the planer in place, the next

step is to add the outfeed exten-
sion, see Fig. 7. It consists of two
“wings” and a table to support the
workpiece as it exits the planer,
see photo. (Note: This extension
is designed for planers where the
bed stays stationary.)

WINGS
I stalled on the outfeed extension
by making the outfeed wings (F),
refer to Figs. 7 and 9. They're two
rectangular pieces of plywood with flat board and a framing square,
one end tapered to match the angle see Fig. 8. The board extends the OUTFEED TABLE
of the stand, refer to Fig. 9. bed of the planer. And the square Once the wings are in place, the
MOUNT THE WINGS. The wings allows you to transfer the wing next step is to add the adjust-
are attached to the sides with a locations to the sides. ment system and outfeed table.
pair of piano hinges. This allows Start by unplugging your planer. ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM. The ad-
you to fold them against the sides Then insert a 3/4 "-thick board and justment system holds the out-
when you're not using the stand. lower the cutterhead to “clamp" feed table in place and allows you
The tricky part is locating the the board in place. Now set your to adjust it to the correct height
wings so the table ends up flush square on the board and make a foryour planer.
with the planer bed. The problem mark 2 V2 " down on each side. The system consists of four
isthe location of the tapered sides Finally, line up each wing with pieces of threaded rod (two
prevent you from measuring your marks and screw the wings pieces epoxied in the top edge of
down from the bed of the planer. to the sides. Note: I used extra- each wing), see Figs. 7a and 10.
To solve this problem, I used a long (IV4 ") screws. Then, to adjust the height of the

20 ShopNotes No. 9
 FEATURE PROJECT

threaded lock nuts and

ftable, I
washers on each rod.
OUTFEED TABLE. With the nuts
and washers in place, the next
step is to make the outfeed table
M
(G). It’s just a piece of 3/4 ply-
wood with the comers rounded.
To recess the wing nuts that
secure the table, I screwed table

supports (H) to the bottom of the

outfeed table, see Fig. 10b.
Next, holes are drilled in the
supports to fit over the threaded

rods, refer to Figs. 7a and 10. Fi-

nally, adjust the table flush with
the bed of your planer and secure
it with wing nuts.

Optional Drawer
To provide dust-free storage for
my planer accessories (extra
knives, and calipers), I
tools,
added a pull-out drawer under
|the middle shelf (C), see Fig. 12.
drawer. All the drawer parts
are the same height (5%"), but
their lengths are different. To de-
termine the length of the drawer
front (I), measure between the
sides and subtract Vs" for clear-
ance (21 7/8"). Then, cut the front
to size and rabbet the ends for the
drawer sides, see Fig. 11a.
The drawer sides (K) are 13V4"
long and are grooved for slides
that are added later, see Fig. lib.
The drawer back (J) fits between
M
the sides and is 20 3/8 long.
Before assembling the drawer, a
groove is cut on the inside face of
,

each piece to accept the 1/4 '-thick

Masonite bottom ( L), see Fig. lib.
This creates a lip under the drawer
front which is used like a handle to
pull the drawer open.
SLIDES. The drawer rides on a
set of hardwood slides (M) cut to
fit the grooves in the drawer
k
sides (K), see Fig. 12.
Finally, to prevent the drawer
from sliding open when the stand
is moved, I added bullet catches

and strike plates, see Fig. 12.

No. 9 ShopNotes 21
 TECHNIQUE

How do you
R ipping stock to width on the
table
operation that
saw is

it
such a common
often becomes
that aren’t parallel to each other.
To align them, use a combina-
I

tion square, see photos below.

ings shown. You should use the
guard whenever possible.) Then
slip on your safety glasses and

prevent binding instinctive. Set the fence, turn on CHECK LIST. Once the saw is adjust the rip fence.
the saw, and make the cut. But aligned, there are a number of RULES. There are three simple
and kickback?
what if the saw binds? Or you things to check before ripping. remember whenever you
rules to
Use the right need to rip a large or long board? First, take a moment to inspect rip a workpiece. i
technique and ADJUSTMENT. The first step to the wood. To prevent the wood First: Don’t stand directly be-
some simple safe, accurate ripping is to make from tilting or rocking as it’s cut, hind the blade. This way if the
shop-built ac- sure your table saw is adjusted make sure it's not warped. And stock binds and “kicks back,”

cessories .
properly. With use, the blade and that iBs planed flat on one face you’re less likely to get injured.
fence can loosen and come out of (for more on this, see page 4) and Second: Always follow through
alignment. IBs easy to tell when jointed straight on one edge. — don’t let go of the stock until it’s
this happens —
the cut binds. This is also a good time to check completely past the blade.
BINDING. Binding occurs when your blade guard. Is it positioned Third: Feed the workpiece at
a workpiece is pinched between and operating properly? (Special a steady rate. If you go too fast,
the saw blade and rip fence. This Note: The blade guard has been the saw can bog down. Too slow
is caused by a blade and fence removed for clarity in the draw- and you may bum the workpiece.

Check Blade. First place a square in the slot and

,
Check Rip Fence. Once the blade is aligned, ad\
set it touch a tooth. Then rotate the blade and
to sqaure and slide the the fence over to touch
just the
push the square to touch the same tooth. If it's not Then, use the same procedure to check if it’s
it.

parallel, see your manual to adjust the saw trunnion. parallel. If it’s not, see your manual for adjustments.

22 ShopNotes No. 9
 TECHNIQUE

cceesonee _
There are a number of simple ac- with more control as you rip. pressure on the workpiece.
cessories you can make for your The splitter reduces binding The outrigger and the hold-
table saw to make ripping safer by preventing the saw kerf from down help control what could be
and more accurate. All the acces- closing up on the saw blade. The an awkward cut on a large, long,
sories shown below provide you push block lets you maintain firm or thin workpiece.

SPUTTER
To prevent the saw kerf from
closing on the blade, I made an
insert for my saw with a built-in
“splitter,” see Drawing.
The keeps the kerf
splitter
open the same width as the blade.
To prevent your workpiece from
catching on the splitter, sand the
end to a point.

PUSH BLOCK
One of the most important acces-
sories you can use when ripping
isa push block. I prefer the type
|hat has a ‘heel” or lip on the back
^edge, see Drawing.
The heel pushes both the work-
piece and the waste through the
blade. (This works particularly
well when ripping thin strips.)

OUTRIGGER
Ripping a long or large workpiece
on the table saw can be awkward.
To provide additional support to
the workpiece, I built a simple
“outrigger,” see Drawing.
The outrigger clamps to your
rip fence and serves as a quick
and easy outfeed extension for
your table saw.

HOLD-DOWN
Ripping thin stock (less than V4
"

thick) on the table saw can be

tricky. (Thin stock has a tendency
to “ride up” the saw blade and
vibrate during the cut.)
I To prevent this, I use a scrap-
wood hold-down, see Drawing. It
clamps to your fence and holds
the stock flat against the table.

No. 9 ShopNotes 23
 *
Tool Storage
Open shelves create a series of adjust-
able bins to store and organize your
portable power tools.

S toring port-
able
always a problem.
tools is
power
adaptable. I also wanted a system that could bei
adapted to fit a variety of shop layouts. So
two smaller cases instead of one large
I

cabinet. This
builr

They usually end up in a pile on a way I could stack the cases, place them side by side,
shelf somewhere. And the power cords or usethem as stand-alone units.
unwind and weave together like spaghetti. SHELVES. To store the widest possible variety of
To solve this, I built a tool storage system, see power tools, the shelves are two different widths.
photos. The storage system is open in the front to And to make it easy to rearrange tools and accesso-
keep the tools right at hand. And a set of adjustable ries, the shelves fit in a set of dadoes in the sides. I
shelves create a series of bins —
each bin a “home” even customized several of the shelves for specific
for a specific tool. tools. (For more on this, see page 27.)

24 ShopNotes No. 9
 SHOP PROJECT

is basically a plywood box with a TOP & BOTTOM. Once the case SIDES & DIVIDERS. The next
divider, see Fig. 1. pieces are cut to width, the top stepis to cut the sides (C) and
n
All of the 3/4 -thick plywood (A) and bottom (B) pieces can be dividers (D) to length (3IV2"), see
pieces for both cases are cut from cut to their finished length Fig. 1. To accept the adjustable
n
a single sheet, see Cutting Dia- (23 3/4 ), see Fig. 1. shelves (added later), V^’-wide
gram. Since these pieces are all Then the ends are rabbeted to dadoes are cut in the inside faces
n
the same width (15 3/4 ), I started accept the side pieces, see Fig. la. of the sides (C), and both faces of
the dividers (D), see Fig. la.
CUT IN PAIRS. That’s a lot of
dadoes to cut (24 per case). To cut
these quickly, I use a special tech-
nique. I cut the dadoes in pairs —
starting near the ends and work-
ing towards the center, see Fig. 2.
This cuts your set-up time in half
and ensures the dadoes will align.
Start by attaching a long auxil-
iary fence to your miter gauge,
see Fig. 2. Then clamp a stop to
the fence and cut the first dado.
Now just turn the workpiece end
for end and cut a second dado.
Do this for both sets of sides
and dividers. Note: For the divid-
ers (E), flip the piece over and
repeat the cuts on the other side.

No. 9 ShopNotes 25
 SHOP PROJECT

The back
To strengthen the case and pre-
vent it from racking, I added a
V2 " plywood back (E). To hold the
back in place, I cut a rabbet on the
inside edge of the top, bottom,
and side pieces (A, B, and C), see
Fig. 3.
TRIM DIVIDER. But before you
can assemble the case, there's one
more thing need to
to do. You'll
trim V2 "
width of the di-
off the
vider (D). This way it won't inter-
fere with the back when it's
installed later on, see Fig. 3.
ASSEMBLE CASES. Now you're
ready to assemble the cases. To
do this, apply glue and screw the
top and bottom to the sides and
divider, see Figs. 3 and 3a.
Note: Make sure that the case
is square, and the front of the

divider (D) is flush with the front

of the case.
ADD the BACK. Finally, cut a
back (E) to fit in the rabbets in
each case. Then glue and nail the
back in place, see Fig. 3b.

The daee
To make the bottom bin more ac-
cessible and keep the case up off
a damp floor, I added a base, see
Fig. 4.
The base consists of four pieces
of 1x4 stock: a front and back (F),
and two ends (G). The front and
back pieces are rabbeted to ac-
cept the ends, see Fig. 4a.
CUT PIECES. The length of the
ends is the same But the
length of the front and back de-
pends on how you arrange the
cases. If the base is for a single
case (or you're going to stack
them), the front and back pieces
M
are 21 3/4 long. If the cases are
M
sideby side, they're 45 1/2 long.
ASSEMBLY. The base is assem-
bled with glue and nails, see Fig.
4a. Then it's centered under the
case (this allows a 1" overhang)

and screwed in place, see Fig. 4b.

26 ShopNotes No. 9
 SHOP PROJECT

Jhe Shelves
The only thing left to complete
the tool storage cases is to add
the adjustable shelves, see Fig. 5.
These Vi plywood shelves are
cut to fit in between dadoes in the
sides and divider.
TWO SIZES. The depth of the
shelves is the same (\§Vi). But
the lengths (widths) are differ-
ent.(Note grain direction.)
my case, the wide shelves
In
M
(H) are 12 3/4 long, and the nar-
row shelves (I) are 9 34" long, see
Fig. 5 and the Cutting Diagram
on page 24.
(Note: The Vi plywood that re-
mains from cutting the backs (E)
will allow for eight shelves of
each size.)

To make it easier to slide the

shelves in and out, I chamfered
the front and back edges of each
shelf, see Fig. 5a. Then I beveled
(file or sand) the front edge of
each dado, see Fig. 5a.
CUSTOMIZE SHELVES. Finally,
Itook the time to customize some
of the shelves to hold specific
tools, see photos below.

Customizing the Shelves

Circular Saw: To keep my circular saw from Drills: To make it easy to reach in and grab an

tilting when I set it on the tool shelf, I cut a long electric (or battery powered) hand drill, I notched
rectangular slot. The slot is cut wide enough to the front end of one of the shelves. Each notch
fit the blade guard and allow the saw to sit flat. is cut to fit the handle and holds the drills upright.

No. 9 ShopNotes 27
 TIPS & TECHNIQUES

Shop Solutions
Router Bit Depth Gauge
Setting the depth of a router bit be “micro-adjusted” to various
can involve a lot of trial and error. heights in Vie" increments.
To get around this, I made a To set a bit, first place the base
gauge that allows me to precisely of the router on the gauge, see
set the depth of the bit. photo. Then lower the bit until it
The gauge is made from a short just touches the screw that corre-
length of 2x4 with a series of sponds to the desired depth.
brass screws set in half-holes, see Lynn B. Stoutner
Drawing below. The screws can Ames Iowa ,

SCRAP 2x4
APPROX. T LONG
1

DEPTH SETTINGS
FROM Vi e" TO 1"

NOTE: MARK DIFFERENT DEPTH

SETTINGS ON EDGE

Router Table Adjustment Block

There are times when I want to
“sneak up” on a final cut on the
router table. The problem in do-
ing this is moving the fence in
very small increments and —
then locking it in place.
To solve this, I clamped an ad-
justment block behind the fence
on my router table. (It clamps to
the router table with an re-
shaped arm that pinches the table
top, see Drawing.)
What makes the whole thing
work a hex bolt that runs
is

through a T-nut in the block.

As the bolt is turned, it pushes
the fence toward the bit in very
small increments. Note: A springr
keeps tension on the bolt and pre|
vents it from vibrating loose.
Nick Yinger
Concord California
,

28 ShopNotes No. 9
 TIPS & TECHNIQUES

^installing Threaded Inserts

I use a cut-off bolt in a drill

press to install threaded inserts.

But sometimes in hard woods it
can be difficult to turn the chuck
by hand.
To get a better grip and apply
more torque, I thread a large
plastic wing nut onto the bolt, see
Fig. 1. The wing nut allows me to
use my fingers and thumb to turn
the bolt —
and give me more lev-
erage to go into the hard wood.
This technique also works
great for installing hanger bolts,
see Fig. 2. (Just be sure to drill a
pilot hole first.)
Mark Sanner
Old Saybrook Connecticut
,

Squaring-Up Large Panels

Squaring-up a large glued-up slightly, see Drawing. remove the framing square and
panel on the table saw can be a Then butt the square up cut the opposite end.
Challenge. Especially if the panel against the rip fence to make the Mark Klein
is too large to be supported by the cut. Once one end is squared up, Cardiff-by-the-Sea, California
miter gauge. And the ends of the
panel are uneven so you can’t run
them along the rip fence.
The solution is to “fool” the rip
fence. One way of doing this is to
attach a board along the edge of
the panel. But this doesn’t ensure
a perfect 90° cut. The method I

use does. And all that’s required

is a framing square.

Just carpet tape the framing

square flush with the panel’s edge
so it overhangs the uneven end

Cork-Sottom Sanding Slock Send in Your Solutions

Adhesive-backed sandpaper
If you’d like to share original solu-
(like 3M’s Stikit) and a piece of
tions to problems that you’ve faced,
wood make a great sanding block.
send them to: ShopNotes, Attn: Shop
The only problem is it’s difficult
Solutions, 2200 Grand Avenue., Des
to remove the sandpaper. To pre-
Moines, I A 50312.
vent this, I glued a piece of cork
We’ll pay up to $200 depending on
to the bottom of the block. The
the published length. Send an expla-
cork is porous enough so you can
nation along with a photo or sketch.
peel the sandpaper right off.
Include a daytime phone number so
Thomas E. Bussey
we can call you if we have questions.
Cedar Falls Iowa
,

No. 9 ShopNotes 29
 LUMBERYAR

Lumber Grades
Fve noticed that
hardwood lumber is
BUYING TIPS
often priced accord- So what does all this
ing to its “grade.” mean to a woodworker?
And the price differ- It means you can save
ence between grades money when you buy
can be considerable. lumber if you know the
What exactly am I amount of clear wood
paying for ? each grade will yield.
Milo Keen For instance, let’s

Adel Iowa ,
say I’m looking to buy
100 board feet of
Understanding No matter what red oak. And the FAS
the different grade of lumber you The lumber grader checks each board as it comes off price is around $3.00 a

grades of lum- buy, all you’re pay- a pallet. He flips the board to look at both faces and then board foot. For $300 I’ll
ing for is the amount uses a set of lumber guidelines to assign a grade. get around 83 board
ber can save
of “usable” wood in feet of clear lumber.
you money. each board. This is determined by and the reverse side allows some However, purchased 125
if I

a professional grader at a mill or slight defects (No. 1 Common). feet of No. 1 Common
red oak at
lumber yard and is based on what Boards that are graded Select $1.20 a board foot, I’d get about
the National Hardwood Lumber can be used whenever you only the same amount of clear wood
Association (NHLA) calls a “clear need one good face —
like the top for only $150 — a savings of $150lv
face cutting.” for a dining room table. You could So I only buy FAS when I need
A clear face cutting is a portion use FAS, but you’d be paying a lot need short
long, clear stock. If I
of a board that has one clear or more for wood never see.
you’ll narrow boards, I save money by
defect-free face and the reverse NO. l COMMON. Like FAS, No. buying No. 1 Common.
side is free from unsound defects 1 Common boards are also graded NHLA HANDBOOK. A final note.
(such as rot or loose knots). The from the poor side —
but with If you’d like more information
number and the size of these cut- more waste. You can only expect about grading, the NHLA (P.O.
tings will determine the grade of about 66% of the board to be clear. Box 34518, Memphis, Tennessee
the board. Lower grades of hardwood 38184) publishes a grading hand-
(2 A, 2B, 3 A, and 3B) are not read- book. It costs $6.00 and reads like
GRADES ily available. They’re generally income tax instructions —
but it
This means the grader has to look used by manufacturers to make contains a wealth of information.
at both sides of the board to de- flooring, pallets, and other wood
termine which is the good side products.
and which is the poor side. BOARD SIZE. In addition to the Lumber Questions?
FAS. For example, the top amount of clear wood, the NHLA Identifying, selecting, and
grade, FAS (firsts and seconds) is also sets standards for the overall buying materials for your
graded from its poorest face. The size of a board being graded. For workshop projects can be a
thought here is that a board is instance, a FAS board must be at bit confusing.
only as good as its poorest face. A M
least 6 wide and 8 feet long. If you have any questions
board that’s graded FAS will While a No. 1 common board only about lumber or other pro-
yield slightly more than 83% has to be 3" wide and 4 feet long. ject 'materials, Bend them
clear wood. The important thing to remem- to: SflopNotes, Attn: Lum-
SELECT. The next grade, Select ,
ber is that the quality of clear beryard, 2200 Grand Ave.,
will also yield at least 83% clear stock in a No. 1 board is equal to Des Moines, IA 50312.
wood. The difference is a select that of a FAS board. The only Please include a daytime
board is graded from the good face. difference is the size (or amount) phone number so we can
It’s basically a combination grade: of the clear cuttings that can be call you if necessary.
the good side must grade FAS, obtained from the board.

30 ShopNotes No. 9
 PROJECT SUPPLIES

Sources
ShopNotes Project Supplies is of- the cutting edges are oriented includes all the hardware to build

fering some of the hardware and vertically This. means you need the stand, along with the 6" rub-
supplies needed for the projects to stand the workpiece on edge to ber utility wheels.
in this issue. rout a profile, instead of laying it We’ve also included the bullet
We Ve also put together a list of flaton the router table. catches and screws for the op-
other mail order sources that FEATHERBOARD. To rout a tional drawer. All you need to
have the same or similar hard- consistent profile, it’s important supply is the plywood and V4"-
ware and supplies. that the workpiece be held tight thick Masonite. Note: You’ll also
against the jig’s fence. One way to need to supply the correct size
VERTICAL RAISED PANEL JIG do this is to use featherboards. mounting bolts and T-nuts to at-
The shop-built Vertical Raised ShopNotes Projects Supplies is of- tach the planer to the stand.
Panel Jig (shown on page 6) at- fering a polycarbonate feather- S6809-200 Planer Stand
taches to your router table and board separately. (This is the same Hardware Kit $29.95
makes it easy to rout a decorative featherboard we used on the
raised panel. Router Table in ShopNotes No. 1.) EDGEBANDING
Note: The Vertical Raised S4502-525 Featherboard Edgebanding (or veneer edging)
Panel Jig is sized to fit the Router (two required) $14.95ea. is one of the quickest and easiest
Table featured in ShopNotes ways to hide a plywood edge.
No.l. But it can easily be sized to PORTABLE PLANER STAND There are three basic types of
fit any other router table. One way to make your ‘‘portable” edgebanding: glue-on edging,
ShopNotes Project Supplies is planer truly portable is to mount iron-on veneer, and veneer tape.
Offering a hardware kit that in- it to the Planer Stand shown on They’re all just thin strips of wood.
cludes all the hardware needed to page 16. In addition to offering The difference is how they’re ap-
make the Vertical Raised Panel mobility, this stand features an plied to a plywood edge.
Jig. All you need to supply is the adjustable outfeed extension and Edgebanding is available at
plywood and V^'-thick Masonite. an optional drawer. some hardware stores and home
S6809-100 Vertical Raised The outfeed extension pro- centers. It’s also available from
Panel Jig Hardware Kit. .$12.95 vides support to a workpiece as it the Mail Order Sources below.
BITS. What sets this jig apart exits the planer. And the optional One challenge to working with
from other raised panel jigs is the drawer is a handy place to store edgebanding is trimming the ve-

bits used to rout the profile — all your planer accessories. neer after it’s applied. Edge trim-
vertical raised panel bits (see ShopNotes Project Supplies is mers are designed just for this and
Mail Order Sources below). offering a hardware kit for the do a great job. If you can’t find
On a vertical raised panel bit, Portable Planer Stand. The kit them locally, see sources below.

MAIL ORDER SOURCES ORDER INFORMATION

Similar hardware and supplies may be found in the
following catalogs. Please call each company for a catalog BY MAIL BY PHONE
or for ordering information. To order by mail, use the For fastest service use our
Constantine’s Woodhaven Woodworkers Supply order form that comes with Toll Free order line. Open
800-223-8087 800-344-6657 800-645-9292 the current issue. The order Monday through Friday, 7:00
Ve'iieer Edging
Tuimmers, Dry Lubri-
, Edge Vertical Raised Panel
Bits Router Mainte-
Veneer Edging, Edge
Trimmers, Dry Lubri-
form includes information on AM to 7:00 PM Central Time.
cants
,

nance Kit cants

handling and shipping charges, Before calling, have your
Highland Hardware Woodcraft The Woodworkers’ and sales tax. VISA, MasterCard, or Dis-
800-241-6748 800-225-1153 Store If the mail order form is not cover Card ready.
Veneer Edging, Dry Veneer Edging, Verti- 612-428-3200 available, please call the toll
Lubricants cal Raised Panel Bits, Edge Trimmers, Ve- freenumber at the right for 1 - 800 - 444-7527
Trendlines Dry Lubricants neer Edging, Vertical
more information on specific
800-767-9999 Raised Panel Bits
charges and any applicable Note: Pnces subject to change
Veneer Edging, Edge
Trimmers sales tax. after July 1, 1993.

No. 9 ShopNotes 31
 Scenes From the Shop
This Stanley No. 71V2 Router Plane was used to create (This could have been done with the router plane but ,

flat-bottomed grooves and dadoes. First the sides were

,
itwas often faster to use a chisel.) Finally the router
,

cut with a hand saw. Then the rough waste was removed, plane was used to flatten the bottom of the groove.