Introduction to Oceanography and Earth Systems Science

I. INTRODUCTION

A. Initial Comment: The earth is our home and habitat, without its abundant resources
(air, water, heat) we would not be in existence today.

1. The Earth is approximately 4.6 billion years old,

2. Basic Earth-Resource Visualization

a. Solar Energy + Plants + Earth Soil (weathered rock) = FOOD!
b. clothing: synthetics/oil, natural/soil
c. building materials: plastics/oil, gypsum, cement, metals
d. energy: gas, electric/coal, fuel oil = fossil fuels from solar energy
e. transportation: gasoline, cars

B. Earth System Science Defined: Interdisciplinary study of the earth's naturally

occurring phenomena, its processes and evolution.
1. Earth Science by necessity involves the marriage of a number of specialty
sciences
a. Astronomy- Study of the origin, evolution and composition of the
universe, solar system and planetary bodies.
(1) Cosmology: origin of Earth, Solar System, and Universe

b. Geology- study of the earth, its composition, origin, evolution and

processes.
(1) Mineralogy/Petrology: study of rocks and minerals
(2) Geophysics: study of earth physics and processes
(3) Volcanology: study of volcanoes
(4) Marine Geology: study of ocean geology
(5) Seismology: study of earthquakes and seismic waves
(6) Geomorphology: study of surface processes and landforms
(7) Paleontology/Historical Geology: study of past life and historical
evolution of the earth through time
(8) Plate Tectonics

c. Meteorology: Study of atmospheric phenomena

(1) Climatology: study of geographic climate patterns: processes and
causes
(a) Future Climate Prediction: Green House
(b) Paleoclimatology
(2) Weather studies and weather prediction
(a) Storm Prediction and Emergency Management

(3) Atmospheric Science: study of physics and chemistry of earth's

atmosphere

(a) Environmental/Air Pollution Control

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 d. Oceanography: study of earth's ocean systems

C. Environmental Spheres of the Earth

1. the earth can be subdivided into spheres" of composition represented by the

complex interface of four principal components of the environment: the
lithosphere, atmosphere, hydrosphere, and biosphere.

a. The Geosphere: comprised of the solid, inorganic portion of the earth's

framework including elements to form atoms to form minerals to form
rocks (the very foundation of the planet)

(1) Lithosphere and Interior of the Solid Earth - The earth is

comprised of a series of compositionally distinct shells of rock.
(a) inner core, a solid iron-rich zone with a radius of 1216 km
(b) outer core, a molten metallic layer 2270 km thick
(c) mantle, a solid rocky layer 2885 km thick
i) includes the upper portion of the mantle referred to
as the aesthenosphere - a plastic, viscous zone that
is capable of flowing
(d) Lithosphere/crust, the outer rocky skin of the earth, 4 - 40
km thick, designated to include the upper portion of the
aesthenosphere and near surface crustal rocks, thicker over
continents and thinner over oceans (continental crust vs.
oceanic crust).

The earth is a dynamic organism, even though it is made of solid "rock" it is capable of global
movements on the lithosphere

b. The Atmosphere: the gaseous envelope of air that surrounds the earth
(1) a thick envelope of air (100's of miles thick) that surrounds the
earth's surface. Provides the air we breath, together coupled with
the sun's energy, drives our climatic and weather systems.

(2) Troposphere-Stratosphere-Mesosphere-Thermosphere-
Magnetosphere\

(3) Average composition of elemental gases in dry air

(a) Nitrogen (N2)= 78%
(b) Oxygen (O2)= 21%
(c) Argon (inert) = 0.93%
(d) Carbon Dioxide (CO2) = 0.035%

i) Ability to absorb heat in atmosphere from energy

radiated from earth's surface, helps keep the
atmosphere warm
(e) All Others = trace (includes Water Vapor)

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 c. The Hydrosphere: the waters of the earth including ground water
(beneath the surface), surface water (rivers, streams, lakes, oceans), and
water locked up as ice in the form of glaciers.

(1) the water and liquid that is present on the earth's surface, in its
atmosphere, and beneath its surface.

(2) Oceans cover 71% of the earth's surface and contain 97% of the
earth's water.

(3) Water cycles from the ocean's to the air via evaporation, moves to
land, precipitates as rain/snow, partially infiltrates the earth's
surface, and eventually flows back to oceans via rivers.

Water and air uniquely combine on the earth's surface and make it habitable for life forms.

d. Biosphere: all living matter and cellular tissue on the earth, in the form of
plant and animal, both microscopic and macroscopic.

(1) All life on the planet is contained within its uppermost layer of the
earth, including its atmosphere.

(2) the vast majority of all earthly life inhabits a zone less than 3 miles
thick, and the total vertical extent of the life zone is less than 20
miles.

These 4 environmental spheres are not discrete and separated but are interdependent and
interwoven with one another.

E.g. soil- composed of mineral matter (lithosphere), contains life forms (biosphere), soil moisture
(hydrosphere), and soil gas (atmosphere) in pore spaces.

D. Basic Earth Perspective

1. The Earth is our home
a. Seemingly infinite in its size and abundance relative to our personal lives,
our Earth however is merely an infinitesimal speck floating in the vastness
of space, the buffer of life between us as individuals and the hostile
vacuum of space.

2. Earth Facts: Radius = 4000 miles

Diameter = 8000 miles
Circumference = 24,900 miles
Distance to Moon = 230,000 miles
Distance to Sun = 93,000,000 miles
Distance to Next Nearest Star=2.5 x 1013 mi.
Highest Elevation = 30,000 ft AMSL
Lowest Elevation = 36,000 ft BMSL

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 a. Shape of Earth: almost a perfect sphere, but not quite, actually best
termed an "oblate spheroid", i.e. the diameter of the earth at the poles is
slightly less than the diameter at the equator
(1) Polar diameter = 7900 miles
Equatorial diameter = 7927 miles

Plus topographic irregularities and the concentration of the earth's continents in the northern
hemisphere make it slightly less than a perfect blue ball.

E. The Scientific Method

Modern science believes that fundamental, organized laws exist in nature and that through detailed
study these laws can be transcribed into human symbolism. Steps in scientific investigations:

1. Collection of scientific facts through careful observation.

a. Use of Earth "Sensing" Instruments for measurements of:
(1) Magnetism
(2) Seismic Waves
(3) Satellite Imagery
(4) Physical Atmospheric Properties
b. Quantification of Data
c. Pattern Recognition, Relationship Definition

2. The development of a working hypothesis to explain the existence of these

relationships
a. Quantitative Model Development: Explanation

3. Construction of experiments to validate or reject the hypostheses

a. Hypothesis Testing
b. Repeatable results

4. The acceptance, modification, or rejection ofthe hypothesis basedon extensive

testing
a. Development of Scientific Theory/Paradigm: accepted as truth

II. Matter and Energy - The Foundations of Physical Science

A. Matter - all the material of the universe that has mass and exists
1. Mass - measured typically in grams and kilograms
2. Matter is comprised of: atoms of elements

B. Energy - ability to do work

1. work in physics = force and motion

2. Examples of Energy
a. Kinetic Energy - energy of motion
(1) e.g. falling rock
b. Potential Energy - energy of position, related to gravitational force
(1) e.g. rock perched on a cliff

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 c. Thermal or Heat Energy
(1) kinetic energy of atoms in a system
(2) e.g. air temperature = how fast air atoms are moving and vibrating
d. Electrical Energy
(1) free flow of electrons
e. Sound Energy
f. Mechanical Energy

C. Law of Conservation of Energy - the total energy of the universe is finite, it is neither
created nor destroyed, but may be transformed from one type to another
1. e.g. transfer from potential energy (perched rock on cliff) to kinetic energy
(falling rock)

D. Einstein said: Mass (material) and Energy are Interchangeable

1. E = mC2 - Energy may be converted to mass, and mass to energy

e.g. solar energy + tree = wood (energy to mass)

heat + oxygen + wood = fire (mass to energy)

III. Systems and Models

A. System - isolated portion of Universe selected for purposes of observation and
measurement

1. Hierarchy: Universe --- System ---- System Components

2. Scale Examples
a. Solar System (Sun + Planets)
b. Earth System (Geosphere + Atmosphere + Hydrosphere + Biosphere)
c. Classroom-Scale System:

Question - What are the essential components of our classroom system??

d. Bench-Top System
(1) e.g. a beaker half-filled with air and water

B. Boundary Conditions of System

1. Boundary -limits interaction between system components
a. Open Boundaries vs. Closed Boundaries

2. Open System - boundary conditions are such that matter and energy can enter
or exit the system freely

a. Example - this classroom!

3. Isolated System - boundary conditions are such that matter and energy are
contained, neither may enter or leave the system.

a. Does this exist - can you think of an example?

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 4. Closed System - boundary conditions are such that matter can not exit or enter
the system, but energy can exchange freely.

a. Earth = approximates a closed system

(1) Neglects meteorite impacts to Earth surface or influx of cosmic
atomic material (matter addition)
(2) Energy freely transferable into and out of the system
(a) Atmospheric heat loss to space
(b) Solar Energy influx
(3) Material Resources of Earth are Finite
(4) Components of the System Interact with One Another
(a) e.g. Global Warming model
i) Biosphere + Hydrosphere + Geosphere regulate
carbon dioxide content of atmosphere
ii) Carbon dioxide content contributes to regulation of
atmospheric temperatures

C. Systems Interactions
1. Transfer of Energy ("Energy Flux")
a. e.g. Atmospheric Processes
2. Transfer of Mass / Matter ("Mass Flux")
a. e.g. Tectonic Processes

3. Cycling of Mass and Energy

a. Repetitive flow / transfer of matter/energy between system components
(1) e.g. oceanic evaporation / atmospheric precipitation
b. Rates of Change= amount of transfer / change per unit time
(1) e.g. discharge in a river = gallons / minute

4. System Response Functions

a. system feedback - response of the system to changes in system

components
b. Negative Feedback - the system response is in the opposite direction of
output from a specific function

(1) Example - thermostat control on home heating system

thermostat - metal electrical connection: heating expands the

metal, cooling contracts the metal

cooling room air = thermostat contraction = electrical connection =

furnace on = heating of room

**the net result of room heating is opposite of the initial system

condition of room cooling** - this is a negative feedback

(2) Earth Example of Negative Feedback

Consider Landslides on Steep Mountain Slopes:

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 - steep mountain slopes are subject to gravity-driven
landslides

-landslides result in erosion of mountain slopes

-erosion of mountain slopes reduces the slope angle

-reduced slope angles do NOT promote gravity-driven

landslides

c. Positive Feedback - the system response is in the same direction as

output from a specific function

(1) Book Example - fire and wet wood

wet wood does not burn easily

once fire is started, the heat dries out the wood, and promotes
further burning

** the net result of wet wood burning is in the same direction asa
the initial condition of fire burning ** - this is a positive feedback

(2) Earth System Example of Positive Feedback

Assume Global Warming is Happening...
-Carbon Dioxide Buildup in the Atmosphere Results in
Global Warming

-Global Warming results in higher air temperatures

-Higher air temperatures result in drying of forests

-Dry Forests are subject to forest fire

- Forest fire releases more carbon dioxide into atomosphere

-Increased atmospheric carbon dioxide leads to more global

warming

IV. Examples of Primary Cycling Functions in the Earth System

A. Energy Cycle

1. Basic Rules of Energy (laws of thermodynamics)

a. Energy is neither created nor destroyed, but it may be changed from one
form to another ("Law of Conservation of Energy")

b. Energy will naturally transfer from a more organized state to a more

disorganized state

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 (1) Entropy - measure of disorganization in a system

(a) example- a clean room easily transforms into a messy room,

but a messy room does NOT easily transform into a clean
room

2. Earth's Energy Budget

a. Solar Energy (electromagnetic radiation)

(1) Source of Solar Energy - hydrogen fusion / hydrogen fuel

(2) Electromagnetic Radiation Products from Sun

(a) visible light (colors of rainbow - ROYGBV)
(b) infrared radiation ("heat")
(c) ultraviolet radiation (sun burn material)

(3) Earth System Response to Solar Energy

(a) Plant Photosynthesis - the basis of Earth life

(b) Atmospheric Processes
i) wind, evaporation / condensation, storms
(c) Oceanic Processes
i) wind/waves, ocean currents

b. Geothermal Energy (internal heat of Earth)

(1) Evidence that the Earth is hot on the inside:

(a) hotsprings, geysers
(b) volcanic eruptions
(c) deep mine shafts / wells

(2) Source of Geothermal Energy

(a) Decay of radioactive elements with heat as a by-product
i) e.g. Uranium

(3) Earth System Response to Geothermal Energy

(a) volcanic eruptions
(b) plate tectonic motion
(c) mountain building
(d) earthquakes

c. Tidal Energy in Oceans

(1) Tides - driven by force of gravity

(a) gravitational pull of ocean water by moon and sun

3. Energy Transformation by Earth System

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 a. Atmospheric reflection of incoming solar radiation

(1) ~40% of incoming solar radiation is reflected by into space

(2) albedo - measure of the degree of reflectiveness of the Earth's

surface

b. Absorption of incoming solar radiation at Earth's surface

(1) heat transfer to atmosphere, plants, oceans

c. Geothermal energy transfer

(1) internal heat loss via
(a) volcanic eruptions
(b) transfer to mechanical energy
i) earthquakes
ii) plate tectonic motion

4. Ultimate Driving Mechanisms for Earth Processes

a. Mass and/or Energy Transfer
b. Principle Components
(1) Gravity
(2) Solar Energy (Climate)
(3) Geothermal Energy (Tectonics)

B. Hydrologic Cycle (include basic chemical composition of sea water)

1. Significance of Water

a. Essential for animal and plant life to exist, forms the medium in which
biochemistry can take place.
b. Water solutions transport nutrients and elements to organic tissues,
nourishing them. Carries waste products out of tissues.
(1) Mass of living organisms comprised of water ranges from 65-95%
c. Surface water covers more than 70% of the earth's surface

2. Hydrologic Cycle

a. Closed System

(1) Water is neither created nor destroyed, the hydrosphere is

essentially a closed system,
(2) BUT water may be transformed from one form to another, and
moved from one place to another.

(3) The Hydrologic Cycle: a circuit of water movement, with storage

areas interconnected by various transfer processes... water moves
not only geographically, but through physical states as well.

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 b. Basic Model: Ocean Water----sun's energy---- evaporation
-----atmospheric moisture-----
condensation/precipitation------land/continental waters-----downgradient
flow due to gravity------ back to ocean------and cycling through.

c. Surface to Air: Evaporation prime mechanism for transfer to atmospheric

moisture.

(1) Ocean Evaporation- heat and wind operate on oceans and result
in evaporation of water from liquid to vapor form (especially
effective in lower latitudes, areas with most direct heating from
sun's rays)

(2) Land Evapotranspiration- water is not only release to the

atmosphere on land through evaporation, but also through
transpiration of water vapor from plants/trees to the atmosphere.

(3) Water Vapor Movement:

(a) Convection- vertical movement of moisturelaiden air masses

through heat transferprocess
(b) Advection - horizontal transport of airmasses by wind

d. Air to Surface: atmospheric water vapor is eventually condensed into

liquid or sublimated into ice to form cloud particles = precipitation

e. Surface and Ground Waters: precipitation on land can run several

possible courses:

(1) accumulation/ponding on the continental surfaces (will

subsequently be subject to high rates of evaporation).
(2) surface runoff: in form of streams and rivers, eventually being
subject to partial evaporation and final emptying back to sea.
(3) Infiltration into the ground and uppermost strata comprising the
lithosphere; forming "ground water"

(4) Vegetative interception: the interception of precipitation by the

vegetative canopy of the biosphere, may be subject to
evaporation or eventually fall to ground.

f. Duration of Cycle: water may become temporarily stored and removed

from the cycle from hours to days, to years to 100's of thousands of
years...depending on the geohydrologic circumstance.

3. Moisture Inventory:

a. Oceans: contain 97% of earth's water

b. Glaciers: 2% of all moisture, comprising 75% of worlds fresh water
c. Ground water: 0.5% of total

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 d. Surface Water: 0.2%
e. Soil Moisture: 0.1%
f. Atmospheric Moisture: 0.0001%
g. Biological Water: negligible

C. Ultimate Controlling Mechanisms of Earth System Processes

1. Solar Energy (hydrogen fusion)
2. Geothermal Energy (internal radioactive decay)
3. Gravity (driving force of pull)

V. Deep Geologic Time and the Age of the Earth

A. Age of the Earth

1. Archbishop Ussher in 1658 provided first attempt at dating the Earth based on
the Bible and Genesis

a. Result: Earth created on October 23, 4004 BC

b. Age of Earth according to biblical reconstruction ~ 6000 years old

2. Modern Chronology Based on Astronomy, Physics, Geochemistry, Paleontology,

and Archeology

a. 15-20 billion years ago - Big Bang: beginning of present Universe

b. 5-10 billion years ago - Earth solar system begins developing
c. 4.6 billion years ago - Planet Earth assembled with basic geologic
structure
d. 4.0 billion years - first simple cells of life formed
e. 3.5 billion years - oldest known fossils (soft, single cell)
f. ~3.0 billion years - primitive photosynthetic plant cells
g. 600 million years - first multicellular organisms
h. 600-400 million years - invertebrate ocean critters
i. 400 million years - vertebrate / fishes evolve
j. 300- 400 million years ago - plants evolve, amphibians
k. 200 million years - primitive mammals, reptiles / dinosaurs dominate
l. 65 million years - land mammals dominate, extinction of dinosaurs
m. 2 million years - human-like critters evolve
n. 18,000-20,000 years ago - Last major glacial cover on North America
(Seattle was under a 1000 ft of ice!)
o. 15,000 years ago - earliest archeological evidence for modern man in
North America
p. 500 years ago - Spanish explorers to "New World"
q. 15-20 years ago - MTV evolves
r. 5 years ago - the internet takes off
s. today - You and I are here thinking about it....

B. Geologic Rock Record:

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 1. Rocks - record of Earth history

a. Analogous to a tape recording in which some historical events are

preserved and recorded, others have been erased, and still others were
not taped at all

2. Types of Records Preserved in Rocks

a. Past Life (fossils)
b. Past Climate Conditions
(1) e.g. "Glacial Ages"
c. Past Geographic Organization
d. Past Oceanic Conditions
e. Past Magnetic Field Conditions

C. Basic Principles
1. Principle of Uniformitarianism
a. "The present is the key to the past".

b. Natural laws that are presently observable, have been operating

throughout Earth history

c. Very slow, incremental geologic processes have occurred over immense

amounts of time, to result in large scale changes of the earth.

2. Principle of Catastrophism

a. Catastrophist View: large-scale catastrophic processes are responsible

for most of the changes and evolution of the earth (floods, earthquakes,
volcanic eruptions, storms)

(1) Short bursts of violent (high energy) processes, followed by slow

process cycles

b. Original Premise - Church / biblical view of Earth history

(1) Phase 1 - all time since creation before Noah's Flood
(2) Phase 2 - all time since Noah's Flood to the present
(3) Noah's Flood
(a) used to explain most geologic phenomena originally

D. Methods of Determing Ages of Rock Materials

1. Relative Dating
a. Earth history placed in the context of relative sequences of geologic
events.
b. Example - Law of superposition- in an undisturbed sequence of
sedimentary rocks, the lowermost rock layers are the oldest, and the
uppermost rock layers the youngest.

2. Absolute / Numeric Geochemical Dating

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 a. Chemical Technique - uses radioactive elements contained within
minerals and rocks chemically and quantitatively determine the absolute
age of that rock within the framework of statistical and/or experimental
error.
b. Precise dating of geologic events from the rock record
VI. Significance of the Oceans / Oceanography / Oceanographic Exploration
A. 71% of Earth Covered by Oceans!!!
B. Oceans = important source of life in terms of evolution and geohistory
C. Expanding Human Horizons
1. Boats + Oceans = travel / mobility
D. Global Exploration / Mapping
E. Expanding Resources / Economic Trade
F. Migration of Human Populations
1. Most of the Worlds Population Lives near water / oceans
G. Oceans = important source of food, resources, and rich ecological habitats
H. Scientific Exploration and Research
VII. Significant Events in the History of Oceanography / Oceanographic Exploration
A. 10,000-12,000 years ago: Early Settlement of the Americas: By Land or Sea?
B. 100-2000 BC - Greeks, Romans and Phoenicians sailing the Mediterranean
C. ~1000 AD - Norse Vikings in north Atlantic (Greenland and Newfoundland)
D. 1400-1600 - Spanish Exploration and Conquest of New World via Atlantic
E. 1700-1800's Ocean Exploration: James Cook in Pacific, Ben Franklin in Atlantic,
Charles Darwin in Pacific
F. 20th Century Oceanography
1. Oceanographic Institute
a. Scripps in La Jolla, CA
b. Lamont-Dougherty, Columbia University
c. Rosentiel School - Miami
2. Wordwar I and II - Advances in Oceanography
a. seafloor mapping
b. echo sounding / depth detectors
c. magnetometry studies
d. submarines
3. 1960's-1970's
a. Deep Sea Drilling Program (Oregon State part of collaborators)
b. Glomar Challenger- drilling to depths of 6000 m (3.7 mi) in ocean
c. Ocean-Based Plate Tectonic Studies
(1) Mid-Ocean Ridge System
(2) Submarine Volcanism
(3) Magnetic Seafloor Stripes
(4) Deep-Ocean Submarines
4. 1980's - Ocean Drilling Program
5. 1990-2000
a. Satellites / Remote Sensing
b. Global Positioning Systems
c. Geographic Information Systems
d. Robotic submarines
e. Automatic Data Collection Devices / Internet Technology

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