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DANS (DANCE) – RELIEF-STITCH PATTERN SOCKS

Toe-up socks with short legs and a relief-stitch pattern on the insteps. The well-fitting heel is shaped
with a classic heel flap in a modern construction - perfect for dancing at a midsummer celebration.

YARN SOCK’S LEG LENGTH Approx. 3½ (3½, 3½, 3½) in / 4 (4,

Bambu Raggi (50% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 25% 4, 4) cm
bamboo, 437 yd/400 m / 100 g) SOCK’S FOOT LENGTH Approx. 8-8¾ (9-9¼, 9½-
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS 9¾,10¼-10½) in / 20.5-22 (23-23.5, 24.5-25, 26-26.5) cm
Junior Raggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 219 yd / YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
200 m / 50 g) Approx. 60 (70, 80, 90) g (color 17217, Almost Almond)
GAUGE Approx. 30 sts x 40-42 rnds in stockinette = 4 x NEEDLES U. S. size 1.5 / 2.5 mm: set of 5 dpn
4 in / 10 x 10 cm. NOTIONS 4 stitch markers
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **
SIZES U. S. Women’s 4-5 (5½-6½, 7½-8½, 9½-10½) / DESIGN Maja Karlsson
Euro 34-35 (36-37, 38-39, 40-41)

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES Lay index finger yarn over front needle and down
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand between the needles*. Rep *–* until you have cast on
between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front the desired number of stitches.
loop = right-leaning increase. See instruction video on Järbo’s Youtube channel:
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between https://youtu.be/y7MZPq928yM.
2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left-
leaning increase. Relief-Stitch Pattern (a multiple of 4 + 3 sts)
Rnds 1-2: P1, k1, *p3, k1*; rep *–* a total of 6 times, p1.
Short Rows with Wrapped Stitches: To make a short Rnds 3-4: P1, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k1*; rep *–* a total of 6
row, you only work some of the stitches on a row. To times, p1.
avoid holes, the stitch where the turn occurs is Rnds 5-6: P2, *p1, k1, p2*; rep *–* a total of 6 times, p1.
wrapped. Rnds 7-8: P1, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k1*; rep *–* a total of 6
W&T: Wrap and turn. times, p1.
How to Wrap a Stitch:
On RS: Bring yarn to front of work. Slip next stitch to TOE
right needle. Return yarn to back of work and slip st With dpn and using Judy’s Magic Cast-on, CO 18 (18, 18,
back to left needle. Turn. Later, when you come to a 18) sts = 9 sts per needle.
wrapped st, knit the stitch with its wrap.
On WS: Bring yarn to back of work. Slip next stitch to Rnd 1: Knit all sts, dividing them over 4 dpn.
right needle. Return yarn to front of work and slip st Rnd 2: K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem on needle 2, M1R, k1.
back to left needle. Turn. Later, when you come to a Needle 3: K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem on needle 4, M1R,
wrapped st, purl the stitch with its wrap. k1.
Rep Rnds 1-2 until you have a total of 62 sts (all sizes).
Judy’s Magic Cast-on:
Use two needles. Hold the needles parallel together in Sts 1-31 = instep (top of sock)
your right hand so the tips point to the left. Hold the Sts 32-62 = sole (bottom of sock).
yarn as for long-tail cast-on, over your thumb and index
finger, with the yarn end over the thumb. Lay yarn over
needle nearest you. *Scoop the thumb yarn up
between the needles and lay it on the back needle.

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FOOT HEEL FLAP

Knit 1 rnd. At the same time as working a straight heel flap, you
K2, work in pattern (see Stitches and Techniques) until 2 will join the heel gusset sts to the sides of the heel flap.
sts rem on instep, k2 and then work in stockinette Row 1 (RS): Turn and sl 1 knitwise, tug yarn, knit until 1
across sole. Rep this rnd until foot measures 4¾ (5¼, st before M4, k2tog tbl.
5½, 6) in / 12 (13, 14, 15) cm. Row 2 (WS): Turn and sl 1 purlwise, tug yarn, purl until
1 st before M1, p2tog.
HEEL GUSSET Row 3 (RS): Turn and sl 1 knitwise, tug yarn, knit to
Rnd 1: slipped st, k2tog tbl with slipped st and next st on heel
Instep: Relief-stitch pattern as est. gusset (= 1 st before + 1 st after gap at turn).
Sole: K1, M1L, knit until 1 st rem, M1R, k1. Row 4 (WS): Turn and sl 1 purlwise, tug yarn, purl to
Rnd 2: Knit. slipped st, p2tog with slipped st and next st on heel
Rep Rnds 1-2 until there are 53 sts on sole. gusset (= 1 st before + 1 st after gap at turn).
Knit 1 rnd. Rep Rows 3-4 until all gusset sts are eliminated after a
Now work only across instep and then begin heel. join on a RS row.

HEEL Now continue working all the way around on the ankle
Note that the heel is worked back and forth in as follows:
stockinette with short rows and wrapped sts. Read the
description for short rows in Stitches and Techniques Rep Rows 3-4 until all the sts have been worked on a RS
before you begin working heel. row.
We will now work only on the sole/back sts. Place 4 Instep: Work in relief st as est.
markers as follows: Sole: K2tog, k30.
M1 after st 11.
M2 after st 22. Now you should once again have the original number
M3 after st 31. of sts (= 62 sts) around and the heel is finished!
M4 after st 42.
Between M1 and M4: the center 31 sts that will become LEG
the heel flap. Work 4 rnds with relief st on front and stockinette on
Between M2 and M3: the center 9 sts that will become back.
the center back of the heel gusset.
Continue with relief st on front and ribbing on back of
Row 1 (RS): Knit until 1 st rem before M4, w&t. leg.
Row 2 (WS): Purl until 1 st rem before M1, w&t. P1, *K1, p1*; rep * –* to end of rnd.
Row 3 (RS): Knit until 1 st rem before turned st on Rep the rnd above for total of 8 rnds.
previous row, w&t.
Row 4 (WS): Purl until 1 st rem before turned st on Now work k1, p1 ribbing all around sock leg for 4 rnds.
previous row, w&t.
Rep Rows 3-4 until all sts outside M2 and M3 have been FINISHING
wrapped. The center 9 sts inside M2 and M3 are not BO in ribbing and cut yarn.
wrapped. Weave in all ends neatly on WS.

Next Row (RS): K9. Knit all wrapped sts following Make second sock the same way.
explanation for RS rows, up to M4; turn.
Next Row (WS): Sl 1 purlwise, purl up to wrapped st
(after M2), purl all wrapped sts following explanation
for WS rows, up to M1.

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TIPS & SHORTCUTS

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If
your stitch count doesn’t match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or
smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern, your item will not
be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow
the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic
board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and
shape of the garment. To determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure
your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on how much ease you
want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment
measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the
color strands around each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the
back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the
twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the right side.

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The
colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between
two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS
KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, BOR = beginning of
row/round, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec =
decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop, g st = garter stitch,
inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches
together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters,
mc = main color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) =
round/rounds, RH = right hand needle, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, ssk
= slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib =
with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue,
dc = double crochet, dec = decrease, dtr = double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double
crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m = marker, mc = main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds
= round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts = stitches, tog = together, tr =
treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

DIFFICULTY
* = Suitable for those who have just started knitting or crocheting
** = Suitable for those who have knitted or crocheted some before
*** = Suitable for those who are experienced knitters or crocheters

© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.