DYEING OF POLYESTER

AND COTTON BLEND

ABHISHEK RANA
10BTD5090001
Textile Engineering (J. N. Govt. Engg. College. SUNDERNAGAR)
+917807307807, [email protected]
 Classification of the methods for
dyeing of P/C Blend
• Exhaust dyeing method or batch dyeing method-
• Thermosol Dyeing Method
 Exhaust Dyeing Method or Batch
Dyeing Method
This is again classified in the following three groups-
• two bath dyeing
• one bath one step dyeing
• one bath two step dyeing method
Two Bath Dyeing-
This is the process in which we have to dyed first polyester part in the
HTHP beam dyeing machine or HTHP jet dyeing machine and the cotton
part is dyed in the jigger machine.
Batch Process
Machine used for dyeing of polyester part-
i) HTHP Beam Dyeing Machine (First commercialized HTHP Machine)
ii) HTHP Jet Dyeing Machine.
Machine used for dyeing of cotton part-
Jigger dyeing machine
 Thermosol Dyeing Method
It is again classified into two groups-
• Continuous dyeing
• Pad batch process (semi-continuous)
Note- in continuous dyeing, process may be single bath or double bath.
 Polyester Dyeing

Carrier Method (jigger,

HTHP Method Thermosol Method
winch)

Open Width Dyeing

Machine
Pressure Jigger

Rope form dyeing HT

winch, HT jets, HT
overflow jets
 Process Sequence of P/C Blend
Dyeing

Desizing Scouring Drying Heat Setting Mercerization

Reduction
Singeing Drying PET Dye Drying
Clearing

Cotton Dye Washing Soaping Washing Drying

 Machine for Polyester Dyeing
HTHP Beam Dyeing Machine-
• No need to explain the whole process of dyeing in beam dyeing
machine. Only some important points will be discussed about it-
Advantages & Features
• Loading and unloading of fabric is easy and time of dyeing is short.
• Dyeing in open width form.
• Most suitable for those fabrics hat might crease, extend or abrade when
dyed in machines where fabric is in motion.
• Not appropriate for compact fabrics.
• De-aeration is essential to avoid paler dyed spots.
• A wetting agent helps to eliminate air bubbles within the fabric roll.
 Recipe used in HPTP Dyeing
Parameter Quantity
Disperse Dye X % (depends upon the shade)
Dispersing agent 1 g/l
Sequestering agent 1-2 g/l (if required)
Defoamers 0.5 to 1 g/l
Levelling agent 0.5 to 1 g/l
Wetting agent 0.5 g/l
Acetic acid Enough to get pH of 5-6
➢ Flow of liquor usually in the in-to-out direction, but it can be reversed.
Out-to-in flow can compress the material causing flattening and glazing,
particularly on the inner layers.
➢ Material is stationary and liquor is moving.
➢ Bathing is very important. During batching, tension should be uniform and
optimum.
➢ M:L ratio is 1:10.
➢ Both cloth and yarn can be dyed on this machine.
HTHP Beam Dyeing Machine
 Disadvantages of Beam Dyeing
Machine
• Fabric of different width can not dyed together on a single beam.
• The dyed fabric may be display moire effect if it is tightly due to
shrinkage.
• Uneven dyeing may occur if the beam is fully loaded, as the dye liquor
has penetrated several layers of fabric.
Jet Dyeing Machine
Jet Dyeing Machine
 HTHP Jet Dyeing Machine
The jet dyeing machine is an extension of the HTHP winch dyeing
machine. Jet dyeing machine developed by BURLINGTON Industries
and first machine developed in 1963 by Gaston country Machine co. of
U.S.A.

Features:
• Both material and liquor is moving
• Dyeing in rope form.
• Fabric speed usually 200-250 m/min.
• The jet dyeing can usually operated up to 140 oC under high pressure and
having capacity capable of dyeing 100 o 150 kg of fabric at a time.
 Chemicals Added
• Acids
• Buffers
• Sequestering agent
• Anti-crease agent
• Defoamers
• Levelling agent
Development in Jet Dyeing Machine
• Soft flow jet-slow motion of fabric. Suitable for knitted fabric.
• M:L is 1:1 for super jet dyeing machine.
• Aerodynamic jet dyeing machine.
• Jet created by mixture of air and water.
• M:L is 1:1, drain out is 813 oC.
• Multi-nozzle soft flow jet dyeing machine.
 Advantages of Jet Dyeing Machine
• Fabric of two different width can be dyed at a time so that two lots can
be combined together for dyeing.
• No special batching device is required for winding the fabric as in
beam dyeing.
• There is no flattening effect or uneven dyeing on the fabric as in beam
dyeing.
 Disadvantages:
• There is possibility of entanglement of light-weight fabric during dyeing.
• Loose fibers removed from the fabric may get redeposited on the fabric
surface as well as on the interior of the jet dyeing vessel; this problem does
not arise in beam dyeing.
• Yarn cannot be dyed in a jet dyeing machine whereas it can be dyed in a
beam dyeing machine.
• Foaming problem
• Oligomer problem
• Rope marks
 Machine used for cotton dyeing –
Jigger Dyeing Machine
Open jigger or closed jigger dyeing machine-
• Closed jigger specially for vat dyeing.
• Liquor is stationary and fabric is moving.
• 500 to 1000 meter of fabric is processed in one time.
• M:L ratio in jigger dyeing machine is about 1:5.
• Usually take 10 mins for each passage.
 One Bath Two Step Dyeing-
One-bath dyeing processes, using both the dyes such as following in the
same dye bath.
1. Disperse and vat dyes
2. Disperse and reactive dyes
3. Disperse and direct dyes
Disperse / Reactive Dyeing System-
 Disperse/Vat Dyeing System
Typical Dyeing Recipe
Disperse dye X%
Vat dye Y%
Dispersing agent 0.5 – 1 %
Wetting agent 0.5 – 1 %
pH 4 – 5 with 30% acetic acid
Procedure:
• Prepare the bath with dispersing agent, wetting agent and acetic acid
• Treatment for 10-15 minutes at 50-60 OC
• Add disperse and vat dye.
• Raise the temperature to 130 OC for 10 – 15 minutes.
• After PET part dyeing cool o 8 OC for proper levelling then add NaOH &
Na2S2O4
• Lower down the temperature to 60 OC.
• For 30 minutes for better exhaustion, rinse with cold water and soap at 95
OC for 25 minutes using 2 g/l lissapol D
• Only vat dyes which are stable up to 130 OC can be used for this process.
 One Bath Two Step Dyeing Method
All the vat dyes may be used for the one – bath high temperature process
provided that the dyes are finally divided enough. The IK vat dyes are not
preferred because the dye liquor requires to be cooled to abut 30 OC in
order to obtain full color yield. Therefore when IK dyes are to be used it
is preferable to dye by the two-bath process.
Typical Dyeing Recipe
Disperse dye X%
Vat dye Y%
Dispersing agent 0.5 – 1%
Wetting agent 0.5 – 1%
pH 4 – 5 (attained with 1 – 2 ml/l of
30% acetic acid)
 Oxidation and Soaping
Oxidation and soaping can be achieved simultaneously using the following
recipe:
Recipe
Hydrogen peroxide (35%) 1 -2 ml
Anionic detergent 0.5 – 1 g/l
pH 9 - 10
Procedure:
First treat the material for 10 – 15 minutes at 50 OC with hydrogen peroxide.
Then add the anionic detergent and raise the temperature to 95 OC. Soap for
10 – 15 minutes.
 Disperse/Vat Dyeing System
Method is used when selected vat dyes severaly. It stain PET component
during high temperature.
Vat dye is added at 80 OC after PET part dyeing rather than adding at the
start with disperse dye.
Except it the whole process is same as that the dyeing in one bath one
step.
 Disperse/Reactive System
Same as one step dyeing except the addition of reactive dye at 80 OC.
This process is used for the reactive dye which are not stable up to 130
OC, due to which they cannot be used in one step process.
 Thermosol Dyeing Method
A. Continuous dyeing
B. Pad batch dyeing
Advantages of Thermosol dyeing;-
• Continuous process it gives higher production
• Dye utilization is excellent.
• Dye can be used afterward
• No carrier is required.
• Fabric is processed in open width form so natural feel of fabric do not get
disturbed.
• No crease formation
• Lower energy is required than batch.
• No extra heat setting is required.
 Disperse/Vat Dye System
PDPS Method (Continuous Method)
PDPS(Pad Dry
Pad Steam)
Method

For Double
For Single Bath
Bath
 For Single Bath
Combined
Mercerization
Singeing Desizing scouring and
(Hot)
bleaching

Vat development
Stenter (for Soaping on Dyeing with
on pad steam
finishing) soaper thermolsol pad
(CDR)

Sanforizing Folding
 For Double Bath
Combined
Mercerization
Singeing Desizing scouring and
(Hot)
bleaching

Batching Reduction
Cotton part PET part dye
(rotation 8-10 clearing on pad
dye on CPB on thermosol
hours) steam

Washing on Stenter (for

Sanforizing Folding
soaper finishing)
 One Bath One Step Thermosol
Dyeing with Disperse and Reactive
Dyes
 Chemical Recipe
Recipe
Disperse de X g/l
Reactive dye Y g/l
Sodium bicarbonate or soda ash 5-20 g/l
Urea 100-200 g/l
Migration inhibitor 10-20 g/l
Wetting agent 1-2 g/l
 Procedure
Padding
• Padding temperature 20 – 30 OC
• Liquor pick up 60 – 80 %

Drying
• First partial drying in infrared pre dryer and then fully drying
• Partial drying is done to avoid migration of dyes.
Thermofixation
• It is done at 180 – 220 OC for 30 – 45 seconds.
• It is the fixation step.

Padding
• Padding bath contain NaOH and Na2S2O4.

Steaming
• During this vat dye penetrated inside the cotton part. Then oxidation,
soaping and finally washing.
 One Bath One Step Dyeing Process
Disperse/Reactive Dyes
• Padding in the second step is done using NaCl + NaOH.
• H – brand reactive dye is used.
• Fixation is done during steaming with saturated steam (102 oC) for 30-
60 oC.
• Then washing soaping and again washing.
 One Bath One Step Dyeing Process
Disperse/Reactive Dyes
Recipe
Disperse dye X gpl
Reactive dye Y gpl
Sodium bicarbonate or soda ash 5-20 gpl
Urea 100-200 gpl
Migration inhibitor 10-20 gpl
Wetting agent 1-2 gpl
Dye Concentration <10 20 30 40 50 60
(g/l)
Sodium silicate 70 70 70 80 70 70
Caustic soda (ml) 15 18 21 24 27 30

Thermofix Temperature 140 160 180

Sodium silicate 70 70 70
Caustic soda (ml) 15 18 21

Dye Concentration 10 20 30 40 50
(g/l)
Urea (g/l) 20 40 60 80 100
Soda ash (g/l) 10 10 10 15 20
 New Approaches of Dyeing of
Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabric
o Dyeing with reactive, disperse dyes in supercritical carbon oxide.
o Dyeing of 80/20 PET/COTTON blend by using azeotropic
solvent.
o Polyester/cotton blend fabric with sulphatoethyl sulphone
disperse/reactive dye treatment.
o One-bath dyeing PET/COTTON blend with
azohydroxypyridone disperse dye containing a fuluorosulfonyl.
 Dyeing with Reactive Disperse Dyes
in Supercritical Carbon Oxide
o What is supercritical CO2 ?
o It is naturally occurring that is chemically inert, physiologically
compatible and relatively inexpensive.
o It is non-flammable, it is supplied either from combustion process or
volcanic process without the need of producing new gas & it is
recycled in a closed system.
o No disposal problem.
o Easy to handle.
Hydrophobicity of CO2 is useful in dyeing of polyester fiber or fabrics with
disperse dyes as disperse dyes are also hydrophobic in nature and can dissolved
in super critical CO2 and can easily penetrate in polyester fiber or fabrics.
• SC-CO2 act as a solvent in the range of 353-393oK temperature and 10-20
MPa pressure.
• For dyeing hydrophilic fibers like nylon, cotton-disperse dyes are not
suitable for SC-CO2 dyeing.
• Cotton can be dyed with fluoro triazinyl disperse reactive dyes at 120 oC in
SC-SC2.
• For efficient dyeing in SC-CO2 , P/C blend fabric is immersed in the
aqueous solution including 10% NMP(N-methyl 1-2-pyrrolidinone) which
act as a solvent for pretreatment.
 Pre-treatment
o 1& Na2CO3 and 10% NMP at room temperature for on hour and
squeeze and dry at 373 oK.
o When dyeing with this dye, small amount of hydrogen fluoride may be
formed in the reaction but Na2CO3 present in the bath does not allow
hydrogen fluoride corrosion.
o This HF from dyeing solution is passed to the calcium hydroxide and
recovered as calcium fluoride which is stable and harmless and present
in the nature in fluorite form.
 Pre-treatment
If the same dye is used in Thermosol dyeing then
• Homogeneous dyeing is achieved in the SC-CO2 method compared to
Thermosol dyeing.
• L/F was better in SC-CO2.
• In Thermosol, dye is sublime or dissolved by heating and penetreated
in the fibers so the fiber is selectively dyed while in SC-CO2 dye is
dissolved in the CO2 which is dissolved in the swollen fiber.
 Advantages of SC-CO2 Dyeing
Conventional Dyeing Dyeing in Supercritical CO2
High volumes of waste water with No waste water at all. Dye remains
the residual dye chemicals, etc. as powder. No need for dispersing,
levelling agents.
High energy requirements. Only 20% energy requirement.
Dyeing/washing, drying times is 3-4 Only 2 hours.
hours per batch.
 Dyeing of 80/20 PET/COTTON
Blend by using Azeotropic Solvent
• The blended fabric is pre-treated with the azeotropic solvent. This
solvent is directly applied with pad-squeeze-dry technique.
 Dyeing of 80/20 PET/COTTON
Blend by using Azeotropic Solvent
Sr. Solvent System Weight Volume Solubility Polarity H.P (oC)
No % % parameter index
.
Acetone 24.3 30.6 10
Ethyl alcohol 10.4 13.2 12.7 14.5 63.2
1
Chloroform(Ac-
65.3 44.0 9.3
EA-Cf)
Acetone 51.1 64.3 10
Methyl acetate 5.6 6.0 9.8 9.5 49.7
2
n-Hexane (Ac-
43.3 66.1 7.3
Mac-nH
 Dyeing Recipe
• Disperse dye 2%
• Reactive dye 2%
• Glauber’s salt 5 gpl
• Soda ash 3 gpl
• Borax 5 gpl
• pH 10 to 11
• MLR 1:50
• Temperature 80, 95, 110 oC
• Time 30, 45, 60 mins.
 Sulphonyl Disperse/Reactive Dyes
Treatment by Chitin –Biopolymers-
• Pre-treat the fabric with NaOH solution.
• The washing & rubbing fastness properties are improved.
• The dyed sample shows good rubbing within the range of color.
• The color strength of the dyed sample of the dyed sample increased
with increasing deposition of Chitin on Fabroc.
Dyeing
 Changes in dry-rubbing, wet rubbing (PN-EN ISO 105-
X12:1999) and washing fastness (PN-EN 20105-C01:1997)
properties of polyester/cotton fabric samples dyed using
disperse/reactive blue after treatment with chitin (I), 0 – without
alkaline pretreatment and A1 – with alkaline pretreatment,
NaOH 5 g/l
Pretreatment Chitin Deposition % Color fastness to:

Rubbing Washing
Dry Wet
0 4 3 4
1 4 3 4
2 4 3 5-4
3 4 3 5-4
O
4 4 3 5-4
5 5-4 3 5-4
6 4 3 4
7 5-4 4-3 5-4
0 5-4 3 5-4
1 5-4 3 5-4
2 4 3 5-4
3 4 3 5-4
A1
4 4 4 5-4
5 4 4-3 5-4
6 4 3 4
7 4 3 4
 Dyeing with Azohydroxypyridone
Disperse Dyes containing a
Fluorosulfonyl Group
Advantages:
o It is a one-bath dyeing of PET/cotton blends.
o Alkali-clearable azohydroxypyridone disperse dyes containing the
Fluorosulfonyl group under high-temperature dyeing condition is
feasible.
o Better fastness properties
o These dyes saves a lot of chemical energy.
o Excellent levelness properties.
Dyeing
 Conclusion
1. One bath dyeing of polyester/cotton fabrics with reactive disperse
dyes in successful with SC-CO2. The optimum dyeing temperature and
pressure are about 393 K and 20 Mpa respectively. The dyeing
behavior of polyester/cotton blends is strongly affected by the dyeing
characteristics of the cotton side. The color fastness of dyed fabric is
almost satisfactory, but color fastness become weak with a decrease in
the dyeing temperature. In addition, the color fastness of fabric dyed
in SC-CO2 is better than that with the Thermosol dyeing.
2. Treatment with chitin pretreatment give the good dry rubbing and washing
fastness. The alkaline pretreatment affects the greater adhesion of chitin to the
surface of polyester fibers, which is manifested by the greater color strength.
Pretreatment is an alkaline solution containing 10 g/l. NaOH is permitted. The
greater amount of chitin used, the worse affects are observed.
3. The same effect is observed in case of azeotropic mixture on the dyeing
behavior of 80/20 cotton blends. As the pretreatment time increases, dye uptake
was found increase. The slight improvement in fastness properties was also found.
4. Dyeing of PET/COTTON blend with disperse dye containing the
Fluorosulfonyl group under high temperature. Dyeing conditions are feasible. It
decreases our labor cost, chemicals and energy.
Any Question

?
 Thank You
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