An American National Standard

Designation: D 4756 – 03

Standard Practice for

Installation of Rigid Poly(Vinyl Chloride) (PVC) Siding and
Soffit1
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4756; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.

1. Scope* E 631 Terminology of Building Constructions4

1.1 This practice covers the minimum requirements for and 2.2 Council of American Building Offıcials:
the methods of installation of rigid vinyl siding, soffits, and CABO One and Two Family Dwelling Code: Section
accessories on the exterior wall and soffit areas of buildings. In R-707 Attic Ventilation5
all applications, refer also to the specific manufacturer’s 3. Terminology
instructions for installation.
1.2 This practice covers aspects of installation relating to 3.1 General—Definitions are in accordance with Termi-
effectiveness and durability in service. nologies D 883 and E 631 and abbreviations with Terminology
1.3 The various application systems are located in the D 1600 unless otherwise indicated.
following sections of this practice: 3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
Section 8 Substrate, Surface Preparation
3.2.1 backerboard—a flat material used on the face of the
Section 9 Application of Horizontal Siding house, applied between the studs and the siding (or over
Section 10 Application of Vertical Siding existing wall surface) to provide an even surface means install
Section 11 Application of Soffits
Section 12 Special Details
the vinyl siding.
3.2.2 buttlock—this is referred to as the bottom of a siding
1.4 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded or soffit product, or accessory piece, opposite the nail hem,
as the standard. The SI units given in parentheses are for which locks onto the preceding panel.
information only. 3.2.3 crimp—small protrusions, typically approximately 1⁄2
NOTE 1—There are no ISO standards covering the subject matter of this in. (12.7 mm) long, 1⁄8 in. (3.2 mm) wide, and projecting 1⁄8 in.
practice. (3.2 mm) formed by a crimper (snaplock punch). (See Fig. 1.)
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the 3.2.4 crimper—a special hand tool designed to form crimps
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the (snaplock ears) intended to hold partial panels in place. (See
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- Fig. 1.)
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica- 3.2.5 face nail—the action of fastening directly on to the
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use. “face” of a panel (instead of using the nail slot).
3.2.6 fascia—the trim along the perimeter of roofs or roof
2. Referenced Documents overhangs. (See Fig. 2.)
2.1 ASTM Standards: 3.2.7 flashing—special membrane pieces or manufactured
D 883 Terminology Relating to Plastics2 trim pieces used to supplement siding panels in weather
D 1600 Terminology for Abbreviated Terms Relating to protection around openings, such as windows and doors.
Plastics2 3.2.8 furring/furring strip—a wooden or steel framing ma-
D 3679 Specification for Rigid Poly(Vinyl Chloride) (PVC) terial, usually a 1 3 2 in. used to even the surface in
Siding3 preperation of installation. To “fur” a surface means to apply
D 4477 Specification for Rigid Poly(Vinyl Chloride) (PVC) these strips.)
Soffit3 3.2.9 nailslot punch—a special hand tool used to create
slots for attachment of field-modified siding or accessories.
(See Fig. 3.)
3.2.10 snaplock ears—See crimp and Fig. 1.
1
This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D20 on Plastics and 3.2.11 snaplock punch—See crimper and Fig. 1.
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D20.24 on Plastic Building Products.
Current edition approved July 10, 2003. Published August 2003. Originally
published in 1991. Last previous edition approved 2002, published as D 4745 – 02a.
2 4
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 08.01. Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 04.07.
3 5
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 08.04. Available from Council of American Building Officials, 5203 Leesburg Pike,
Falls Church, VA 22041.

*A Summary of Changes section appears at the end of this standard.

Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.

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 D 4756 – 03

FIG. 1 Crimper and Crimps on Siding FIG. 3 Nailslot Punch

FIG. 4 Zip Tool

FIG. 2 Panels and Accessories

and the siding is very warm it will be partially “expanded” and

3.2.12 soffıt—the underside surface (typically horizontal) of
allowance for more future “contraction” than expansion should
roof overhangs.
be provided.
3.2.13 Strapping—Flexible materials (i.e. metal strips or
hurricane ties used to provide shear or wind resistance. 5.2 Do not store in any location or in any manner where the
3.2.14 zip tool—a special hand tool used to separate inter- temperature of the siding, soffit or accessories may exceed
locked siding panels. (See Fig. 4.) 130°F (54°C).

4. Delivery of Materials 6. Environmental Conditions

4.1 All manufactured materials shall be delivered in the 6.1 Vinyl siding and accessories will expand when heated
original packages, containers, or bundles bearing the size or and contract when cooled. If siding is installed in hot weather
type product, or both, brand name, and manufacturer (or and the siding is very warm it will be partially “expanded” and
supplier) identification, manufacturer’s lot number, and the allowance for more future “contraction” than expansion should
ASTM specification to which it conforms. be provided.
6.2 If installing during weather colder than temperatures
5. Protection of Materials below 40°F, increase the minimum clearance to 3⁄8 in. at all
5.1 Vinyl siding and accessories will expand when heated openings and stops to allow for normal expansion and contrac-
and contract when cooled. If siding is installed in hot weather tion.

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7. Materials NOTE 2—To minimize the possibility of any color variation use
material from a single manufacturer’s lot number for application to one
7.1 Horizontal Wall Siding—See Specification D 3679. building.
7.2 Vertical Wall Siding—See Specification D 3679
7.3 Soffıt Panels—See Specification D 4477. 7.5 Fasteners:
7.4 Accessories: 7.5.1 Nails—Corrosion-resistant with head diameter 5⁄16 in.
7.4.1 Starter Strip—Of two types: for horizontal siding and (7.9 mm) minimum, shank diameter 1⁄8 in. (3.2 mm), length
for vertical siding of poly(vinyl chloride) or noncorrosive sufficient to penetrate not less than 3⁄4 in. (19 mm) into framing
metal. or furring.
7.4.2 Corner Posts—Of two types: for inside corners and 7.5.2 Staples—Corrosion-resistant, 16 gage minimum, with
3⁄8 to 1⁄2-in. (9.5 to 12.7-mm) crown, length sufficient to
for outside corners of poly(vinyl chloride).
7.4.3 Trim Channels—Produced of poly(vinyl chloride) in a penetrate not less than 3⁄4 in. (19 mm) into framing or furring.
variety of designs and sizes for use around openings and edges 7.5.3 Screws—Corrosion resistant, self-tapping type, No. 8
of wall and soffit surfaces. (See Fig. 5.) truss head or pan head length sufficient to penetrate wall
7.4.4 Fascia Panels—Produced of poly(vinyl chloride), thickness of steel stud or 3⁄4 in. into framing or furring.
typically in a “J” shape with an extended flat leg, intended for
8. Substrate, Surface Preparation
field cutting to cover roof trim.
8.1 Apply vinyl siding directly over sheathing or other solid
surface that is in an even plane. Apply over wood furring strips
when the surface is uneven.
8.1.1 Drive fasteners into framing, furring, or nailable
sheathing or siding.
8.2 On existing structures, secure any loose boards, replace
any rotted ones, recaulk around windows, doors, and other
areas as necessary to protect from moisture penetration. Use
furring as needed to create an even surface.
8.3 Furring—masonry and uneven surfaces, as examples,
require wood furring strips nominal 1 by 2 in. (25.4 by 50.8
mm) applied vertically and typically spaced 16 in. (406 mm)
on center for horizontal siding and applied horizontally and
typically spaced 12 in. (305 mm) on center for vertical siding.

9. Application of Horizontal Siding

9.1 General Requirements—Vinyl siding and accessories
expand and contract as much as 1⁄2 9 (12.7mm) over 12-ft
(3.65m) length with changes in temperature. For this reason
adhere to the following provisions:
9.1.1 When applied, vinyl siding products must be attached“
loosely,” leaving approximately a 1⁄32-in. (0.8-mm) space
between the vinyl and the fastener head or crown to permit
thermal movement. (See Fig. 6.)
9.1.2 Center fasteners in slots of siding and accessories to
permit possible expansion and contraction. (See Fig. 7.)
9.1.3 Do not face nail; it would restrict any thermal move-
ment. (See Fig. 8.)
9.2 Installation of Accessories—Accessories, including
starter strips, corner posts and door/window trim, are installed
prior to application of the siding adhering to the provisions of
9.1 and those which follow.
9.2.1 Starter Strip—Determine the lowest point along the
area to receive siding and install starter strips located so that

FIG. 5 Typical Trim Products FIG. 6 Attachment of Vinyl Siding

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 D 4756 – 03
mm)) that will be installed below window sills. Notch the
lower end (7⁄8 in. excess) to later accept the siding panel under
the window. (See Fig. 10.)
9.2.3.2 Across the top install head flashing (optional) and
J-channel that extends to the outer edges of the exposed legs of
the side J-channels. Cut out each end of the head flashing to
FIG. 7 Fastening Location in Siding Slots match the contour of the side J-channels and fasten in place.
Cut along the bends of the J-channel in 3⁄4 in. (19 mm) from
each end, bend down the resultant tabs of the web, insert them
into the side J-channels and fasten in place as shown in Fig. 11.
9.3 Siding Panel Installation:
9.3.1 General Considerations—To make overlapped siding
joints less noticeable on the sides of a building, start at the rear
corner and install toward the front. On the front and rear of
buildings start at the corners and install toward the entrance
FIG. 8 Face Nailing of Vinyl Siding Prohibited door. Avoid use of short panel lengths under 24 in. (610 mm).
When lapping, factory-cut ends of panels should be on top of
the bottom edge of the initial course of siding will be on a level field-cut ends for best appearance.
line and typically approximately 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) below that 9.3.2 Engage the bottom of the first panel and the starter
point. Allow space for corner posts, J-channels, etc., and keep strip. If backerboard insulation is used, drop it in behind the
ends of starter strips 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 in. (6.4 to 12.7 mm) apart. Space panel now. Make sure the panel is locked, but not pulled tight,
fasteners not more than 10 in. (259 mm) apart, centered in nail and fasten leaving 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) gap at the corner posts.
slots. Space fasteners not over 16 in. (406 mm) on center. (See Fig.
9.2.2 Corner Posts—Outside and inside corner posts will 12.)
start 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) below the top, and end 3⁄4 9 in. (19.1 mm) 9.3.3 Lap the next panel over the first by one-half of the
below the bottom edge of the first course of siding which will factory cut notch. (See Fig. 13.) Insert backerboard (if used)
be installed later. Attach each leg of the corner posts with and fasten.
fasteners, spaced not over 12 in (305 mm) apart centered in 9.3.4 To field-notch a panel where the factory notch has
nailing slots except the top fastener that is located at the upper been cut off, cut away 11⁄2 in. (38 mm) of the nailing flange and
end of a nailing slot. lock. Cut a 1⁄8 by 11⁄2-in. (3.2 by 38-mm) notch from the bottom
NOTE 3—If more than one length of corner post is required, lap the step of the panel, cutting away the hook on the back as well.
upper piece over the lower piece by cutting away 1 in. (25.4 mm) of the (Field cut notches should be identical to factory notches.)
nailing flange on the top piece. Lap 3⁄4 in. (19 mm) allowing 1⁄4 in. (6.4 9.3.5 At the bottom of the window, snugly install between
mm) for expansion. (See Fig. 9.) the side J-channels and against the underside of the sill, a piece
NOTE 4—At inside corners, as an alternative, two J-channels may be
of undersill trim cut to the exact width of the window. Use the
installed with the web of one abutting the adjacent wall and the web of the
other J-channel abutting the shorter outer flange of the first J-channel. proper thickness of furring behind it to keep the pitch of the
Attach as specified in 9.1.1. panel consistent. Flash or caulk the J-channel –undersill
intersections to prevent water infiltration. (See Fig. 14.)
9.2.3 Door/Window Trim:
9.2.3.1 Install J-channel on each side of door and window 9.3.6 At a window a siding panel may have to be cut to fit
frames extending from the top of the frames to the bottom of under the opening. Be sure this panel extends on both sides of
the sill for doors and extending below for windows the depth the window. Measure the panel to fit. Hold the siding panel
of the short exposed leg of undersill trim (typically 7⁄8 in. (22 under the window and mark the width of the opening on it.
Allow 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) clearance at the edges for insertion into
each side of the J-channel. Measure the space between the
bottom edge of the S-lock on the previous panel and the top of
the undersill trim, minus 1⁄4 in (6.4 mm) for insertion into the
undersill trim receiver. Remove cut section. Punch snap locks
every 6 in. (152 mm) along the horizontal cut edge. Slide the

FIG. 9 Joining Corner Posts FIG. 10 Installation of Window and Door Trim

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 D 4756 – 03

FIG. 15 Preparation of Siding Panel Under Window

FIG. 11 Installation of Door and Window Trim

FIG. 16 Installation Over Window or Door

at the top of the cutout so you can lock onto the previous course.
9.3.8 At a gable, install J-channel along the rake boards.
(See Fig. 17.) Lap the channels if necessary by cutting 1 in.
FIG. 12 Fastening of Initial Siding Panel
(25.4 mm) off the end leaving only the face and then lap 3⁄4 in.
(19 mm). Miter the ends that meet at the peak to make a neat
joint. (See Note 5.) Lock each precut siding panel into the
siding panel below and slide it into J-channel allowing 1⁄4-in.
(6.4-mm) expansion gap between the end of the siding and
back of the J-channel. The panel for the top of the gable may
be face nailed. Drill a hole the size of the nail shank in the
center of this triangular panel. Lock the panel in place and
drive one nail into the pre-drilled hole. Do not nail it tight!
FIG. 13 Lapping Siding Panel Nailing into the panel without a pre-drilled hole may crack or
kink the vinyl. (See Fig. 18.)
NOTE 6—A pattern can be made from two pieces of scrap siding. (See
Fig. 19(a).) Hold one piece on the lock of the last installed panel, place the
other piece against the gable and mark the horizontal piece. Cut along the
mark and use this piece as a pattern for the remaining siding panels on that
side. (See Fig. 19(b).) Make another pattern for the other end of the panels.
9.3.9 The final panel under an eave is handled like the
portion under a window. Nail undersill trim to the top of the
sidewall (see Fig. 20), flush with the underside of the eave. If
more than one length of undersill trim is needed, splice as
shown in Fig. 21. To determine the amount of the top panel to
be cut off, measure from the bottom of the undersill trim lock
to the bottom of the preceding panel lock minus 1⁄4 in. (6.4
mm). (See Fig. 22.) Cut the panels accordingly. Punch snap-
locks every 6 in. (152 mm) along the cut edge and slide it up
into position. (See Fig. 22.)
FIG. 14 Installation of Window Undersill Trim
10. Application of Vertical Siding
10.1 For general requirements see 9.1 and 9.2.
panel up into position so the bottom locks into the previous
panel and the top snaps into the undersill trim and fasten. (See
Fig. 15.)
9.3.7 Over a window or door, measure for the cuts. Mark the
bottom portion of the panel and cut out the unwanted section.
Install the panel. (See Fig. 16.)
NOTE 5—In some instances it may be necessary to place a piece of
furring into the J-channel behind the cut edge of the siding to reduce wind
movement and maintain the proper plane of this siding. Leave enough gap FIG. 17 Installation on Gable

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FIG. 18 Nailing of Panel at Top of Gable

FIG. 23 Installation of Head Flashing

FIG. 19 Gable

FIG. 24 J-Channel Installation at Top of Sidewall

10.4 Trim around all windows and doors

10.4.1 Cut a 1⁄2-in. (12.7-mm) J-channel for the bottom of
the window as wide as the frame and install it.
FIG. 20 Undersill Trim at Top of Sidewall
10.4.2 Cut side J-channels the length of the frame plus the
width of the face of the bottom J-channel. Cut and bend tabs
into the bottom channel. Install the side channels. (See Fig.
25(a).)
10.4.3 Cut the top J-channel, and head flashing (use is
optional) the width of the frame plus the width of the face of
the side J-channels. Cut out the ends of the head flashing to
match the side channels and install it. Notch the top J-channel
FIG. 21 Undersill Trim Splice on each end, bend the tabs into the side channels, and attach the
top channel. (See Fig. 25(b).)
10.5 Vertical Starter Strip—Locate the center of each side-
wall, vertically align the starter strip at the center using a level
or plumb line. Leave a 1⁄4-in. (6.4-mm) gap at the top and
bottom. Attach each leg of the vertical starter strip placing the
top fastener at the upper end of a nailing slot and with the
remaining fasteners spaced not over 12 in. (305 mm) apart
FIG. 22 Preparation and Installation of Final Pattern centered in nailing slots. (See Fig. 26.)
10.6 Install vertical siding working from the starter strip to
10.2 Head Flashing—Determine the lowest point along the the corners with fasteners located as specified in 10.5. Leave a
1⁄4-in. (6.4-mm) space at the top and bottom to allow for
area to receive siding and install J-channels or head flashing
located so that the lower edge of the nailing flange will be on expansion.
a level line with that point all along the area to receive siding.
Leave 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) gap at all corner posts and J-channels. To
lap two pieces cut away 1 in. (25.4 mm) of the nailing flange
of the overlapping piece and lap 1⁄2 in. (12.7 mm). (See Fig.
23.)
10.3 Top of Sidewalls—If vinyl soffits are to be installed
they should be installed before installation of J-channels at the
top of all sidewalls. For vinyl soffit installation see Section 11.
Install J-channels along the top of all wall areas that will
receive vertical siding. Lap where necessary, removing 1 in.
(25.4 mm) of the nailing flange of the overlapping piece and
lap 1⁄2 in. (12.7 mm). (See Fig. 24.) FIG. 25 Trim Assembly

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FIG. 28 Joining Area-Multicourse Installation

FIG. 26 Vertical Starter Strip Installation

10.7 For application of vertical siding to gables, begin by

nailing the vertical starter strip so that it will be centered with
the peak of the gable. Make a pattern for end-cuts along the
gables using two pieces of scrap siding. Lock one piece on the
starter strip just under the eave. Hold the edge of the other
piece against, and in line with, the roof line. Mark and cut the
vertical piece. Use it as a pattern to mark and cut the ends of FIG. 29 Fastening of Wood Furring Stop
all other panels required for this side of the gable end. Make
another pattern for the other side of the gable. (See Fig. 27.)
NOTE 7—If it will take more than one course to span the height of the
house, terminate the first course into inverted J-channel allowing 1⁄4 in.
(6.4 mm) for expansion. Install head flashing (if used) on top of the
J-channel and begin the second course leaving 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) gap at the
head flashing. (See Fig. 28.)
10.8 At windows and doors, cut the panels to fit the opening
allowing 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) for expansion.
10.8.1 If the panel is cut down in the V-groove, fasten a FIG. 30 Installation With Panel Cut on Flat Surface
wood furring stop as shown in Fig. 29, with fasteners that do
not penetrate the legs of the J-channel or corner post, insert the
cut side over the furring stop and into the J-channel, locking
the other side into the last panel. (See Fig. 29.)
10.8.2 If the panel is cut on the flat surface, install undersill
trim, or a 7⁄16-in. (11.1-mm) thick furring strip, into the
J-channel using fasteners that do not penetrate the leg of the
J-channel. Punch snap locks along the edge of the panel at 6-in.
(152-mm) intervals, snap it into the space below the return of
the J-channel, locking the other side into the last panel. (See FIG. 31 Installation of Panel Cut-in Bottom of V-Groove
Fig. 30.)
10.9 At corners, insert 1⁄2-in. (12.7-mm) J-channel into the
receiver of the corner post. post. Punch snap locks along the cut edge of the panel at 6-in.
10.9.1 If panel is cut in the bottom of the V-groove, insert (152-mm) intervals and snap it into the undersill trim. (See Fig.
into the J-channel. A furring stop should be provided prior to 32.)
panel insertion. This will prevent the panel from detaching. NOTE 8—Furring may be positioned farther into the corner post than
(See Fig. 31.) illustrated, however, nails (fasteners) used to attach the furring and
10.9.2 If the panel is cut on the flat surface, place a piece of undersill trim shall not penetrate the fastening leg of the outside corner
undersill trim, backed by furring, into the receiver of the corner post. In addition, the furring should not be positioned too far into the
outside corner post where it will restrict the channeling of runoff water.

FIG. 27 Pattern Preparation for Gable End-Cuts FIG. 32 Snapping Panel Cut on Flat Surface into Undersill Trim

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 D 4756 – 03
11. Application of Soffits and Fascia (See Fig. 33.)
11.1 Requirements for Proper Ventilation:
11.1.1 Calculation of perforated soffit needed for ventila-
tion.
11.1.1.1 Proper attic ventilation is important for any home
or dwelling. Consult a local building official for the appropriate
requirements for a specific geographical area, and use vented
soffit or other vented products as necessary.
11.2 Installation of Soffıt on an Open Rafter (See Fig. 34):
11.2.1 Provide two parallel slots to hold and support the FIG. 34 Installation of Soffit on Open Rafter
soffit panels.
11.2.1.1 Fasten an F-channel directly to wall at 6 to 12-in.
(152 to 305-mm) intervals. Center the fasteners in the nail slot.
11.2.1.2 Fasten an F-channel on the outer bottom edge of
the fascia board.
11.2.2 Cut a soffit panel to fit into the slots of the
F-channels. Allow 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) per side for expansion.
11.2.3 Slide the soffit panels into the F-channel slots. Panels
are hooked together. On panel sections over 24 in. (610 mm)
wide, intermediate nailing supports are required. NOTE 1—Apply the vinyl components over the existing unit.
11.2.4 Where two soffit surfaces meet, a T-channel or two FIG. 35 Installation of Soffit on Enclosed Rafter
1⁄2-in. (12.7-mm) J-channels properly supported and nailed

back-to-back will provide support for the soffit panel.

11.2.5 At the ends, pieces of F-channel or 1⁄2-in. (12.7-mm)
J-channel, are installed to finish the job.
11.3 Installation of Soffıt on an Enclosed Rafter (See Fig.
35.):
11.3.1 Provide two parallel slots to hold and support the
soffit panels.
11.3.1.1 Fasten an F-channel to the outer bottom edge of the
fascia board.
11.3.1.2 Nail a quarter round Frieze moulding or a J-channel
to the wooden soffit or an F-channel to the wall so that the slot FIG. 36 Installation of Undersill Trim
to hold the soffit is parallel to the slot in the F-channel on the
fascia board. to 305 mm) along the top of the fascia using a snaplock punch.
11.3.2 Cut a soffit panel to fit into the slots of the (See Fig. 37.) Position the panel and secure the bottom lip of
F-channels. Allow 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) per side for expansion. the fascia over the F-channel or J-channel, (See Fig. 38.), and
11.3.3 Slide the soffit panels into the F-channel slots. Panels snap into the undersill trim.
are hooked together. 11.5 Installation of Corner Cap:
11.3.4 At the ends, pieces of F-channel or 1⁄2-in. (12.7-mm) 11.5.1 Trim the fascia cover ends at the corners as in Fig.
J-channel are installed to finish the job. 39.
11.4 Installation of Fascia: 11.5.2 A corner cap can be prefabricated or fashioned from
11.4.1 Install undersill trim molding at the top of the fascia a piece of fascia cover. Cut a 51⁄2-in. (140-mm) length of fascia
boards. (See Fig. 36.) cover and mark a vertical centerline on the back as shown in
11.4.2 Measure the cover required and cut the fascia cover Fig. 40. Cut out a 90° section of bottom flange from the center,
to proper width. Punch snaplock “ears” every 6 to 12 in. (152 leaving 45° on each side. Using a hand seamer, fold along the
centerline to form a right angle.

FIG. 33 Application of Soffit and Fascia FIG. 37 Punch Snaplock Ears on Fascia

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FIG. 38 Positioning of Fascia FIG. 42 Fitting Siding

12.1.3 Match the contour of the obstruction in the end of the

next panel and lap it over the first one. (See Fig. 42(b).)
12.1.4 Apply flexible caulk around the obstruction to seal
the penetration, but do not caulk the siding overlap.
NOTE 9—All caulking to prevent moisture penetration must be done
before siding application. Caulk should never be used where it could
restrict the normal expansion of the vinyl siding.

FIG. 39 Trimming Fascia Corner Ends 12.2 Installing Siding Around Electric Boxes—J-channel
can be placed around the service box, meter, or outlet cover in
the same manner as for windows (see 9.2.3).
12.3 Shutter Installation:
12.3.1 Pre-drill holes through the shutters for attachment
screws and mark their location on the siding. (See Fig. 43.)
12.3.2 Drill 3⁄4-in. (19-mm) expansion holes through the
siding (siding only) where attachment screws will be located.
(See Fig. 43.)
12.3.3 When attaching the shutters do not fasten such that
the shutter bears tightly against the siding otherwise expansion
FIG. 40 Prefabricating Corner Cap of the siding will be restricted. (See Fig. 43.)

11.5.3 Punch the top edge of a corner cap with a snaplock 13. Keywords
punch. Hook the bottom ends of the cap over the fascia flange 13.1 crimp; horizontal siding; installation practice; poly(vi-
and push the top into the undersill trim slot to lock into place. nyl chloride) (PVC); vertical siding; vinyl siding; vinyl soffits
(See Fig. 41.)
12. Special Details
12.1 Fitting Siding Around Faucets or Railing:
12.1.1 Always begin a course of siding at an obstruction
such as a faucet or wrought iron railing to avoid excess lap
joints.
12.1.2 Cut a slot 1⁄4 in. (6.4 mm) bigger than the obstruction,
matching the contour of the obstruction. Install the first piece
of siding as shown in Fig. 42(a).

FIG. 41 Installation of Corner Cap FIG. 43 Shelter Installation

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SUMMARY OF CHANGES

Committee D20 has identified the location of selected changes to this standard since the last isssue D
4756–02a that may impact the use of this standard. (Approved Nov. 10, 2002)

(1) Reworded section 5.2.

Committee D20 has identified the location of selected changes to this standard since the last isssue D 4756–02 that may
impact the use of this standard. (Approved April. 10, 2002)

(1) Added terminology to Section 3, “Terminology” 9.3.6 Finishing under windows, new measuring points
(2) Added outside storage information in 5.5.2 9.3.9 Finishing under eaves, new measuring points.
(3) Reword 5.1. (8) Changes to Section 11:
(4) Added allowance of 3⁄8 in. expansion and contraction while 11.1.1.1 through 11.1.2 Requirements for Proper Ventilation:
installing in below 40°F temperatures in 6.2 states to consult local officials for those details.
(5) Added 7.5.3 Screws to 7.5 Fasteners 11.2.2 Cutting soffit for open rafter: allow 1⁄4 in. per side for
(6) Changed Furring strips to 1 by 2 in. in 7.3 Furring expansion.
(7) Changes to Section 9: 11.3.2 Cutting soffit for closed rafter: allow 1⁄4 in. per side for
9.2.1 Starter Strip: 1⁄4 in. below lowest point substrate expansion.

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