Crochet Pattern „Plush Bear 2 in1 „

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Snuggly toy or pillow? The snuggle bear can be the best friend – and not only for a child .
With this toy your dreams will be fluffy and soft.
The bear is very easy to make. The stitches are simple and easy to crochet. If you want your
pillow-toy to be fluffy, use a slicker brush on it.

MATERIALS:
 500gr Crochet Yarn 150g/175m (450gr)
 Crochet Hook Size 6,50 mm US K UK 3
 Safety Eyes 20 mm, eyelashes
 Toy stuffing
 Glue (e.g. Hobby Pattex)
 1 extra long sewing needle
 leftovers of fabric for the nose

Abbreviations (US):
o SC – single crochet
o ST - stitch
o CH – Chain (s)
o inc – increase crochet 2sc in one stitch
o dec – decrease crochet 2sc together
o 3SCin 1 – 3 SC in the same ST
o 3SC tog – 3SC together (decrease)
o X dec – X- times dec
o X inc – X-times inc
o (---)x – What is in brackets repeat x-times
o slst – slip stitch
o DC – double crochet
o MR – magic ring

Some tips:
1. All details are crocheted in spiral rounds. This means that the round will NOT be finished
with a slst.
2. Use a stitch marker. A small thread (other colour then your working yarn) helps you
counting the rounds. Just place it at the start of a round on top of your working thread.

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Back legs (make 2)

1. MR 6 SC, mark the beginning of the round.

2. 6inc (12)

3. (1 SC, 1 inc)х6 (18)

4. (2 SC, 1 inc)х6 (24)

5. (3 SC, 1 inc)х6 (30)

6- 18. 30 SC

Body. We start crocheting from the back and go to the front

Chain 21, from the 2nd chain from the hook:

1.19 SC, 3 SC in 1 CH, 19 SC, 3 SC in 1 CH,

2. 19 SC, 3 SC inc, 19 SC, 3 SC inc (50)

3-4. 50 SC

Now we join the legs together.

5. crochet 20 SC on the body, take a back leg and place next to the next ST, crochet 5 SC
through both parts, 20 SC on the body, take another back leg and place to the body, crochet 5
SC through both parts.

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6. Now you work in 1 big round.
Crochet 20 SC on the body, then 25 SC on the leg, again 20 SC on the back part of the body, and
then 25 SC on the 2nd leg. (90)

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7. 10 SC, *move the stitch marker to the middle and
mark it as a new start of the round. Marker will now
go in the middle of the body. So it is easier to keep the
body shape.
8- 17. 90 SC

18. 14 SC, (1 SC, 1 dec)x6, 26 SC, ( 1 SC, 1 dec)x6, 14 SC

(78)

19. 78 SC

20. 14 SC, 6 dec, 26 SC, 6 dec, 14 SC (66)

21- 29. 66 SC

30. 14 SC, 6 inc, 26 SC, 6 inc, 14 SC (78)

31- 32. 78 SC
33. 14 SC, (1 SC, 1 inc)x6, 26 SC, ( 1 SC, 1 inc)x6, 14 SC (90)

34- 41. 90 SC

42. 10 SC, 5 CH, skip 25 ST that will be space for the front leg), SC into the 26th, then crochet 20
SC, 5 CH and skip 25 ST of the previous round (2nd front leg). SC into the 26th, 10 SC. (50)

43. Now we work only in the middle. Skip openings of the legs, 50 SC
44. 9 SC, 3 SC tog, 1 SC, 3 SC tog, 18 SC, 3 SC tog, 1 SC, 3 SC tog, 9 SC (42)

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45. 7 SC, 3 SC tog, 1 SC, 3 SC tog, 14 SC, 3 SC tog, 1 SC, 3 SC tog, 7 SC (34)

Sew front and back parts of the body together.

Stuff the body.

Now we crochet the front legs (we had 5 sc in a chain and 25 sc on each side, so now we have
30sc for each leg), repeat the following for both legs:

1-9. 30 SC
10. (3 SC, 1 dec)x6 (24)

11. (2 SC, 1 dec)x6 (18) stuff the legs.

12. (1 SC, 1 dec)x6 (12)

13. 6 dec, fasten off and hide the loose ends.

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For back legs

Part 1 (make 2)

chain 6, from the 2nd CH from the hook:

1.4 SC, 3 SC in 1, 4 SC, 3 SC in 1 (14)

2. 4 SC, 3 inc, 4 SC, 3 inc (20)

3. 4 SC, (1 SC, 1 inc)x3, 4 SC, (1 SC, 1 inc)x3 (26)

Finger (make 8)

Join 8sc into a magic ring, close with a slst, leave a tail for
sewing.

Sew fingers to the legs.

The Front Legs

On the leg find points for markers A, B, and C – they must be between rows 5 and 6 (count
from the beginning).

Go 1 Row up and mark in the opposite side A1, B1 and C1. Insert the needle from the
bottom (sole) and pull out at marker A, go 1 row up and insert the needle into marker A1.
Go back and pull out at the bottom. Repeat the same with points B and C. Pull the threads
together, make a knot and hide the loose ends.

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Tail

1. join 6sc into a magic ring, mark the beginning of the round.

2. 6 inc 12

3. (1 SC, 1 inc)х6 18
4. (2 SC, 1 inc)х6 24

5- 11. 24 SC

Sew to the middle bottom of the back (see the picture).

The body is done.

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Head * start with the nose.

Chain 7 and from the 2nd CH from the hook

1.5 SC, 3 SC in 1 CH, 5 SC, 3 SC in 1 CH (16)
2. 5 SC, 3 inc, 5 SC, 3 inc (22)
3. 5 SC (1 inc, 1 SC)x3, 5 SC (1 inc, 1 SC)x3 (28)
4. 5 SC (1 inc, 2 SC)x3, 5 SC (1 inc, 2 SC)x3 (34)
5. 5 SC (1 inc, 3 SC)x3, 5 SC (1 inc, 3 SC)x3 (40)
6. 3 SC, *move the marker to the middle, and mark a new beginning of the round. The marker
should go up the middle of the head.

7. 40 SC
8. 5 SC (1 inc, 4 SC)x3, 5 SC (1 inc, 4 SC)x3 (46)
9- 13. 46 SC

14. 11 SC, (1 SC, 1 dec)x8, 11 SC (38)

15. 38 SC
16. 8 SC, (1 SC, 1 inc)x11, 8 SC (49)

17. 49 SC

18. 8 SC, (2 SC, 1 inc)x11, 8 SC (60)

19- 30. 60 SC

31. 8 SC, (2 SC, 1 dec)x11, 8 SC (49)

32. 49 SC
33. 3 dec, 35 SC, 4 dec (42)

34. (5 SC, 1 dec)x6 (36)

35. (4 SC, 1 dec)x6 (30)

36. (3 SC, 1 dec)x6 (24)

Stuff and leave the head open so that you could place the safety eyes later.

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Ears (make 2)
1. Join 6sc into a magic ring, mark the beginning of the round.

2. 6 inc 12
3. (1 SC, 1 inc)х6 18

4. (2 SC, 1 inc)х6 24

5. (3 SC, 1 inc)х6 30
6-9. 30 SC

Sew the ears to the top of the head. The space between the ears is 14 ST.

Mouth. Find the points A, B, C, D between rows 14 and 15. Mark them as in the picture below.

Now you go 8 rows down and mark the points A1, B1, and C1, D1 (they should be between
rows 8 and 9) parallel to the markers A, B and C, D. Keep 6 ST space between the markers.

Take a long needle and a thread to tighten the head. Insert the needle into point B and pull out
at B1. Go one st to the right and insert the needle into point A1 and pull out at point A.

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Pull the thread a little and make a knot. Repeat the same pattern with Markers C, D and C1, D1.

For eyes and nose: Find the place for the eyes between rows 14 and 15, Mark points A,B on
the left and C,D on the right (leave about 8 stitches between them – see the picture). the
bottom (where the neck should be) find point 1 – see the picture below.

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Insert the needle into point 1 and pull out at point A (Eye Marker). Go 3 ST to the left (Marker A
to Marker B). Insert the needle into point B and back to point 1. Tighten and make a knot.
Tighten the 2nd eye in the same way. Insert the needle into point 1 and pull out at point C –
move 3 ST to the left and insert the needle into point D. Go back to point 1 – tighten and make
a knot.

Now place the safety eyes in row 17 – work careful – and fasten the eyes on the inside. This
should be easy as the head is still open. To make the eyes a little nicer you can glue some
eyelashes on top of the eyes. I use for that UHU glue. Keep in mind that after each time you
wash your bear you might have to glue the eyelashes again.
Now we can close the hole in the head.

37. (2 SC, 1 dec)x6 (18)

38. (1 SC, 1 dec)x6 (12)
39. 6 dec, close, fasten off and hide the
ends.

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For the nose you’ll need to cut a circle (e.g. of a leather) and glue it in place. Wait till the nose is
dry. The glue must work good on textile e.g. UHU – please do NOT use super glue.

Highlight the mouth, nose, ears and eyes

with black colour.
I usually use pastell chalk. First I draw something on the paper, collect the parts and brush
carfully on. Sew the head to the body – comb the bear nicely if you used fluffy yarn.

You want to know more?

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dreams/1525163654429691
For any Questions just contact me.
My E-Mail-Address: [email protected]

Have fun with this pattern!

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