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    Raising

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    202012068

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    Raising

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    202012068
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    Original Title

    3. Raising

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    13 views20 pages

    Raising

    Uploaded by

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    Raising

    Course name: Wet processing II


    Course Code: WPE 311

    Course Teacher:
    Tabassum Ferdous Jenny
    Lecturer, Department of Wet Process Engineering
    Bangladesh University of Textiles.
    What is Raising

    • Raising is a mechanical finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric
    by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or
    teasel burrs.

    • Raising is the term used to describe the creation of a pile surface on a fabric.

    • Fibers are deliberately pulled out of a yarn to give the fabric a hairy or fuzzy
    appearance and a soft surface texture.

    • It is a permanent finish may be done either in wet stage (wool) or dry stage (for
    cotton).
    What is Raising

    • Effect of Raising: Loft handle.

    -Woven fabric after raising: Flannel

    -Knit fabric after raising: Fleece

    • Raising is particularly suitable for- cotton, wool, polyester/viscose blended fabric,


    acrylic etc.
    Objectives of Raising

    • To obtain a lofty handle effect

    • To obtain fleecy appearance

    • To create pile on surface

    • To produce heavier surface

    • To produce warm clothe as well as soft one

    • To make the fabric more comfortable.


    Types of Raising:

    1. Napping:

    -Using wire covered rolls to dig out individual fiber ends to the surface.

    -Comparatively higher pile is produced than sueding.

    -Napped fabrics have a softer hand and provide better insulation than the same
    materials unnapped because they can entrap more air.

    -For example fleece, high-pile fur-like effects, flannels and bed blanket finishes are
    produced by napping.
    Types of Raising: (cont..)

    2. Sueding:

    -Using abrasive covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloths etc.) to produce shorter pile
    surface .

    -When a very mild effect of raising is required, sueding is done on fabric.

    -The difference between sueding and napping is that in napping, the fibers ends are
    plucked out of the fabric, whereas in sueding they are cut.

    -In the textile industry, the process of sueding is also commonly known as "sanding" or
    "emerizing".
    Types of Raising m/c:
    Types of Napper:

    1. Teasel raising m/c

    2. Cord wire raising m/c

    i) Single acting raising m/c

    ii) Double acting raising m/c

    iii) Knit raising m/c

    Types of Sueder:

    1. Single Cylinder Sueder

    2. Multi Cylinder Sueder


    Types of Raising m/c (cont..)

    Types of Napper:

    1. Teasel raising m/c:

    • Teasels are obtained from thistle plant by boiling seed pod of


    thistle. Teasels are 1.5 to 1.75 inch in length.

    • These teasels are nailed to wooden board or iron sleet and


    then placed the board or the sleet on a drum.

    • The fabric is drawn over them. Fabric and cylinder rotates in


    the same direction but surface speed of cylinder & fabric is
    different.

    • Low production than cord wire raising machine. Fig: Teasel, dried
    thistle flower head
    2. Cord wire raising m/c:

    • It’s a modern raising m/c.

    • Use hooked or bent steel wire to tease the fibers from the surface of the fabric.

    • The most important factor is the relationship between the point & the speed of the
    fabric. The fabric runs in warp direction over the m/c, only weft threads are at right
    angles to the rotating raising wires and so only the weft threads take part in the
    raising process.

    • Wire nappers, known as planetary nappers, are the most commonly used machine.

    • 24-36 small, pile wire clad rolls (worker rolls) mounted on the periphery of a large main
    cylinder.

    • Cleaning rolls or brushes are present below the main cylinder.


    2. Cord wire raising m/c: (cont..)

    General parts of napping m/c:

    1. Main cylinder

    2. Rollers equipped with hooks.

    3. Fabric rolls.

    4. Nib cleaning

    5. Fabric
    2. i) Single acting raising m/c:

    • It has 20-24 pile worker rolls in the


    cylinder.

    • Main cylinder rotates in the same direction


    as the flow of the cloth.

    • The pile worker rolls rotate in a direction


    opposite to main cylinder.

    • Thus due to the friction between pile


    worker rolls and fabric surface, raising is
    accomplished.
    2. ii) Double acting raising m/c:

    • It is the most commonly used machine in


    industry in which main cylinder carries 24, 30
    or 36 rolls.

    • Two types of rollers are available-one is pile


    worker roller and the other is counter pile
    roller.

    • Every pile worker roll is wound with wire


    angled in the same direction as the rotation
    of the cylinder.

    • The counter pile roll is wound with wire


    having points angled in the opposite
    direction.
    2. ii) Double acting raising m/c:

    • The counter pile rolls dig into the yarn to pull out fibers while pile roll felt or tucks
    the fiber ends into the base of the fabric producing a product that retains better
    appearance after laundering.

    • The double acting raiser develops a dense, tangled nap which is very desirable on
    many fabrics.
    2. iii) Knit raising m/c:

    • This m/c is designed to be used almost


    exclusively in the knit industry.

    • M/c can handle tubular fabrics as well as


    open width knits.

    • Main difference with other napper m/c is


    that the cylinder rotates on its own axis
    in a direction opposite to the flow of the
    cloth.
    2. iii) Knit raising m/c:

    • Half of the worker rolls are covered with straight wire called traveler wire and the
    other half are covered with hooked wire whose points face the opposite direction of
    main cylinder rotation.

    • These hooked wires look like pile wire, but they act like counter pile wire because of the
    direction of rotation of the main cylinder.

    • Both sets of worker rolls rotate on their own axis in a direction opposite of the cylinder
    rotation.

    • 14-24 worker rolls are mounted on the main cylinder.

    • The hooked wire roll does the napping and the traveler wire rolls speed is adjusted to
    control the tension of the fabric on the cylinder.
    Types of sueder:

    1) Single Cylinder Sueder :

    • The single-cylinder sueder has one abrasive covered metallic roll and one rubber
    covered pressure roll.

    • To keep the abrasive covered cylinder from expanding from the heat generated from
    friction, water is circulated through the cylinder interior to keep it cool.

    • The pressure roll presses the fabric against the abrasive cylinder.

    • The abrasion of the fibers on the surface of the fabric takes place in the nip between
    the pressure roll and the abrasive cylinder.
    Types of sueder:

    2) Multi-Cylinder Sueders:

    • It usually has five rotating cylinders. Each independently driven and they can be rotated
    clockwise or counter clockwise.

    • Ahead and behind each cylinder, there are adjustable idle rolls which control the fabric
    pressure against the abrasive cylinder.

    • Entry and exit drive rolls transport and control the fabric tension as it progresses
    through the machine.

    • This machine is suited for fabrics containing knots, slubs or thick selvedges.
    Factors which affect the degree of napping:
    1) The speed of the worker rolls.
    2) the type of wire
    3) the angled direction of the wire

    Factors which affect the degree of sueding:


    1) Grit of Sandpaper
    2) Speed of the fabric
    3) Speed of the sanding roll
    4) Pressure of the sandpaper on the cloth
    5) Number and direction of passes through process.
    Any Question?
    Thank You

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