P 47
P 47
P 47
The original
kits used 1/16" balsa. Since I wanted to print these directly on balsa sheet I developed the
parts for 1/32" balsa sheet. My printer will handle up to 1/20" sheet, but I find 1/32" is a little
easier to handle in the printer. As a result, some of the parts have been drawn to allow for
cross grain laminations. The fuselage formers are a good example. The fin as also been drawn
with a mirror image to allow for markings on both sides. This works fine as long as you are
using 1/32" sheet stock.
I like to use a removable nose for winding. The parts have been drawn with this in mind. The
nose former has been drawn so a removable nose plug can be used. A colored nose plug has
also been drawn. The plug when backed with a piece of 1/64" plywood becomes the
removable part. The nose former is located to allow the removable piece to nestle inside the
fuselage nose structure. I like to use a Peck thrust bearing for 1/32" prop shafts in the
removable nose plug. For the P-47, the vacuum formed nose cowl complicates the removable
plug set up a small amount. The original kit cowl had the front face filled in with a plastic web.
The web was shaped to allow the cowl to lay flat on the nose structure. This arrangement used
a plastic nose button. While effective, the nose button does not allow enough room to properly
stretch wind the rubber motor. I resolved this issue by simply cutting the web out of the formed
cowl. This exposed the internal nose structure and made it easy to remove the plug for
winding. Gluing the formed cowl to the fuselage at the rear is more than adequate as the cowl
does not bear any loads.
When using 1/32" sheet for the fuselage sides, I was concerned about the load of a fully
wound motor on the rear motor peg. I like to use a piece of 3/32" aluminum tubing for the rear
peg. Makes holding the model in a winding stooge very easy. To create a bit more strength at
the rear peg, I apply a 3/8" diameter disk of 1/64” plywood to the inside of each fuselage side
at the peg location. This has proven to be plenty strong for a fully wound motor of 1/8" Tan II
rubber. A piece of 3/32” OD aluminum tubing is used for the rear motor peg.
The landing gear parts for the P-47 have been drawn per the original kit. Mirrored parts have
also been drawn to allow sandwiching the landing gear legs between the 1/32” balsa parts.
This makes a nicer looking installation and is quite strong. If you decide to sandwich the gear
legs between the 1/32” parts, you will need to trim off the top of the gear leg covers. Use the
parts that are glued to the wing as a trim guide. You can also simply laminate the provided
parts and install the landing gear per the provided plan. The laminated parts will duplicate the
original 1/16” balsa parts. The location of the gear legs has been printed on each wing panel.
You will see a line with a filled circle on one end. Push the landing gear wire through the
printed circle. The bent wire will line up with the printed line.
The original kits came with a vacuum formed cowl and canopy. A drawing has been provided
that will allow you to develop forms for making your own vacuum formed parts. The original kit
cowl came in red plastic.
I do hope you build and enjoy a model from this plan package.
Paul Bradley
13
24
TOP
28 15
TOP
8
1
6
6
TOP
29 25
15 1
14
26
TOP
22 22
21
8
TOP
10
4
TOP
TOP
10
23 23
4
} Use these disks to shim a Peck
thrust button on the nose piece.
Landing Gear
Make from .025 music wire
Wheels are .75” diameter
P-47
Glue formed cowl along
this edge where it mates
to the fuselage.