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Crochet Baby Adventure Sweater

SWEATERS

Baby Jack is headed way up north on a family vacation! And I thought the
classic Glacier National Park colors would be so cute for him to wear and
keep him warm.

(And to clarify, it is similar to Hudson Bay, but in Canada, they use navy blue
instead of black.)

I have made this combo before in a hat, sweater and blanket. These colors
together are always a hit. (click on each photo to be taken to the patterns.)

click photo for pattern

click photo for pattern

click photo for pattern

When I decided to make him this sweater the only store I had access to was
Walmart so luckily, Red Heart Super Saver had all the colors I needed.

I usually don’t use Super Saver as it can be scratchy however, I’d been wanting
to try the tips I’ve been seeing on how to so"en the yarn a"er the sweater was
made.

I’m happy to report that a"er I made this sweater, I soaked it in a solution of 2
gallons of cool water and 1/4 cup vinegar for about thirty minutes. Then I
tossed it into my washer and used fabric so"ener. Then a"er it was done, I
tossed it into my dryer, on high, for about 10 minutes.

It came out so so"! I have new respect for Super Saver. The colors are so
vibrant and the yarn gives the stitches great definition, and now that I know
how to so"en it right up, I think I’ll be using that yarn a bit more.

tap photo to be taken to Yarnspirations.com for the yarn

Plus, it has so many color choices. I also was a little worried about the red
bleeding onto the cream color, but it did not. In the picture of Jack riding the
scooter and the photo below, the sweater had been washed and dried.

Now, about the sizes offered for this sweater. I made it twice, the first one I
joined for the arms on row 14 and it turned out to be about a 2T size and the
" second on row 12 and fit him perfect. He is about a size 18 month.
#

$ The best is to get the measurements of the baby you are making this for and as
% you are making the yoke portion, you can get an idea of when you join for the
armholes to get the size you need. Adding width to the yoke will make the
sweater larger.

Here is the size chart I use as a guide for up to 24 months:

I’m estimating for the larger size up to 3 or 4, you’ll want to have an arm
length measurement and neck to waist measurement to make sure it will be
long enough.

I’d love for you to be a pattern tester for me if you make it in a larger size!
Please email me if you do tiffany@daisyfarmcra"s.com and let me know how
it turns out.

Probably a good reminder to let you know if you are new to our website, I’m
sharing what I’m making for my friends and family, I’m not a professional
pattern writer, I like to write what I’m making as more of a journal for my
future people that might not know how to read crochet patterns.

I did make a Youtube tutorial if you need extra help.

Materials
Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic, 198 g/7 oz, 333 meters/364 yards, 4
weight, worsted)

2 skeins Aran, 1 skein each Paddy Green, Cherry Red, Saffron and Black

Size H/5.00mm hook, tapestry needle, scissors

4 elongated 1.5 inch buttons

Tape measure, stitch markers

Size
12 months to about size 4T

Gauge taken from sweater: 2 inches = 5 rows and 6 Herringbone Half Double
Crochet

Stitches
DOUBLE CROCHET (DC): YO, insert your hook, YO and pull up a loop, YO
and pull through two loops, YO and pull through remaining two loops.

HERRINGBONE HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HHDC): YO, insert your hook,

YO, pull up a loop and pull directly through first loop on hook, YO and pull
through remaining two loops.

FRONT AND BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET (FPDC & BPDC): A front post
double crochet means you insert your hook from front to back around the
post of the next DC and work a DC. A back post double crochet means you
insert your hook from back to front around the post of the next DC and work
a DC.

Pattern
With Aran, CHAIN 44.

ROW 1: Begin in the 3rd chain from the hook with 1 HHDC. HHDC in each
chain across the row, CH 1 and turn. (42)

Mark the 8th, 13th, 29th, and 34th stitches

ROW 2: Work 1 HHDC in each st to the marked st. In each marked st, work
“HHDC, CH 2, HHDC.” CH 1 and turn at the end of the row.

ROW 3: Work 1 HHDC in each st to the ch 2 space. In each ch 2 space work

“HHDC, CH 2, HHDC.” CH 1 and turn at the end of the row.

REPEAT ROW 3 until size needed. 12 month: 9 rows, 18 month, 11 rows, 24

month-2 Toddler, 13 rows, 3 to 4 Toddler 15 rows. CH 1 and turn a"er each
row.

JOINING FOR ARMHOLES: (This will be either row 10, 12, 14, or 16
depending on size.) *Work HHDC in each st to the ch 2 space, work 1
HHDC into the chain 2 space, chain 2, skip over all stitches to the next ch 2
space, work 1 HHDC into the chain 2 sp. Repeat from * to make the next
armhole. Work HHDC in each st to the end of the row, CH 1 and turn.

ROW 11, 13, 15 OR 17: Work 1 HHDC in each st and work 2 HHDC around
the ch 2 space that makes the armhole. CH 1 and turn.

ROW 12, 14, 16, OR 18 : Work 1 HHDC in each st, Pull through with Paddy
Green in last step of last st. CH 1 and turn. (Don’t cut aran)

BODY OF SWEATER: Work 2 rows in green, 2 rows in aran, 2 rows in red, 2

rows in aran, 2 rows in saffron, 2 rows aran, 2 rows black, 1 ROW in aran.
Always CH 1 and turn, cutting the color a"er each use and pulling aran up
along the edge of the row when needed. CH 2 and turn a"er finishing the last
row of aran to begin the bottom edge ribbing.

BOTTOM EDGE RIBBING: Work 1 DC into each stitch across the bottom of
sweater. CH 2 and turn. *Work 1 FPDC around next DC. Work BPDC around
next DC. Repeat from * across the row. Work 1 DC around the turning chain,
CH 2 and turn. Repeat ribbing for 3 to 5 rows to your preference. For the
smaller size, I preferred 3 rows, larger, 5 rows. Tie off.

SLEEVES ROUND 1: Pull up a loop with Aran, in between the 2 sts in the ch 2
space of the armhole. CH 1 and HHDC in that same sp. Work Herringbone 2
together (HHDC2tog) around the side (post) of next stitch and into ch 2
space. HHDC into each stitch around. HHDC2tog into ch 2 sp and around
side (post) of next st. Work 1 HHDC next to starting stitch, join with a slip st
to starting st. CH 2 and turn.

SLEEVES ROUND 2: Turning chain counts as first st. Work HHDC into the
next st and each st around. When it’s time to change color, pull through with
color on the sl st, CH 2 and turn. Keep ends to the inside of the sleeve.

Repeat rounds according to color changes in body of sweater.

WRIST: *Work 1 DC into each of the next 4 sts, skip 1 st, repeat from *
around. Join with a slip st to first st. CH 2 and turn. Work alternating front
and back post DC for 3 to 5 rows depending on width wanted. Tie off.

HOOD ROW 1: Pull up a loop with aran in neck corner. CH 1 and HHDC
into that same sp. Work 1 HHDC in each sp around to the other next corner.
CH 1 and turn.

HOOD ROW 2: Work 1 HHDC in each stitch, CH 1 and turn.

Repeat row 2 to size needed: 12 month: 18 rows, 18 month: 20 rows, 24

month 2T: 22 rows, 3T-4T: 24 rows.

FRONT PLACKET AND HOOD RIBBING: Pull up a loop in bottom corner.

CH 2. Work 2 DC per row of DC, work 3 DC per each 2 rows of HHDC all
the way up the side around the hood edge and back to the other bottom
corner. CH 2 and turn. Work 3 or 5 rows of alternating front and back post
DC as desired. End with 1 round of single crochet in each st if desired.

Tie off and weave in all the ends.

Here is the Youtube tutorial that can help with more instructions. (Especially
with joining for the armholes and starting the sleeves and if you haven’t seen
how to work DC around the posts.)

Crochet Baby Adventure Sweater

Watch Later Share

Watch on

I think the combo of the written and pattern and video will be of most help if
you are new to making sweaters.

I can’t wait to see photos of your little one! Come and share into the Daisy
Farm Cra"ers group so we can all see!

xo, Tiffany

Click here or on image below for printable pattern

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