Basic 8ply Socks
Basic 8ply Socks
Basic 8ply Socks
by Winwick Mum
Whether to fill up your own sock drawer or
to give to knit-worthy friends and loved ones,
hand knitted socks are the very best kind of
socks! The Basic 8ply (DK) Socks are
constructed as top down socks with a heel flap
and gusset. The heel is knitted in heel stitch
which creates a durable, cushioned heel.
Size To fit ball of foot circumference 8in; 20cm, and advice is given to adjust the size for
any foot
Tension 22 stitches to 4in; 10cm in stocking stitch (worked in the round) on 3.5mm needles
(or size required for tension)
Yarn 1 x 150g 8ply yarn. Yarn pictured is Regia Iglu Color in shade 8991 Lappland (now
discontinued) ** Many DK yarns are sold in 100g balls and one ball should be enough
for a pair of socks, obviously depending on the size of the foot!
Materials
3.5mm needles – short circular needle, DPNs (double pointed needles) or 80 cm circular for
magic loop
1 set DPNs size 4.0mm (optional for a looser cuff)
1 set DPNs size 3.5mm (not required for magic loop)
Stitch holder (optional)
Stitch markers
Wool needle
Abbreviations
K Knit
K2tog Knit two stitches together
P Purl
P2tog Purl two stitches together
Sl1 Slip 1 stitch purlwise holding yarn to the back of your work
SSK Slip the first stitch on the left hand needle knitwise onto the right hand needle,
slip the second stitch on the left hand needle purlwise onto the right hand
needle, slip both stitches back onto the left hand needle and knit together
through back loop
Sts Stitch(es)
() Repeat instructions inside brackets
Basic 8ply (DK) Socks – Winwick Mum
There is only one size given for this pattern but you can use this as a guide for any other
size. Hand knitted socks are measured by width and not length, which is easily adjusted, so
to get the perfect fit for the person you are knitting for, it is best to measure their feet first
and use the Sock Stitch Calculation to find out the right number to cast on. It’s very easy to
do, and once you have the numbers, you can use them for any pair of socks in the same
weight of yarn. The Sock Stitch Calculation, along with a tension tutorial and a video to help
can be found here: https://bit.ly/Sockalong
Pattern notes
It is often easier to cast on using DPNs before changing to the short circular needle. If you
want to use magic loop you will be able to cast on with the larger circular needle if you
prefer to do so, but remember not to pull your cast on stitches too tight. If you use DPNs,
you might find it easiest to cast on and work 2 rows before dividing the stitches across the
needles.
I have given an indication of the number of rows or rounds that I knit for my socks, but do
remember that these are just a guide to give you some idea of how long you should be
knitting for! It's always best to check the measurements against your own feet, or those of
the person you are knitting for.
Pattern
Cast on 44 stitches using 4.0mm needle. The pattern has been written for a cast on with
straight needles which makes it easier for you to join into the round without twisting the
stitches.
Change to 3.5mm needles. At this point, change to a short circular needle, magic loop or
divide the stitches across DPNs and join into a circle, place marker. You will sew up the
small gap where you knitted the first two rows later.
Continue in K2, P2 rib for 8 more rounds or until desired length of rib (I knit 10 rounds of rib).
Continue to knit each round until desired length before start of heel (for me, this is 48 rounds in
total including the rib).
Heel Flap
Change to 3.5mm DPNs if you are using a small circular. You are going to create the heel flap
from half the number of stitches that you cast on, so if you have cast on more or less than 44
stitches, remember to adjust the number of stitches when you start the heel flap. Knitting the
first two stitches of row 1 will help to stop a hole forming at the gusset.
www.winwickmum.co.uk 2
Basic 8ply (DK) Socks – Winwick Mum
Turn heel
*For a larger or smaller sock, you will need to alter the number of purl stitches in the first row
of the heel (marked in bold below), increasing by 1 stitch for each block of 4 stitches extra
that you cast on, or decreasing by 1 stitch for each block of 4 stitches less than 44 stitches. For
example, if you cast on 48 stitches, your first row would be Sl1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn*
Continue in this way, adding one stitch between slip stitch and SSK or P2tog on each row
(ie, Row 5: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1; Row 6: Sl1, K9, SSK, K1, etc) until all of the heel stitches are used.
Depending on how many stitches are in your heel flap, you may find that the K1 and P1 stitch is
not required at the end of the last two rows.
Knit across heel stitches if required to bring you to the left hand side of the heel ready to pick
up 1 st for every 2 rows of heel flap knitted. Remember that if you made the heel flap bigger,
you will need to pick up more stitches. Once you have picked up the stitches, place marker to
indicate new beginning of round. Knit across the top of the foot, place marker, then pick up 1
st for every 2 rows knitted up the other side of the heel. Knit across the top of the heel and
then shape gusset as follows.
Note: If you are using DPNs and/or have placed your stitches on a stitch holder, you can arrange
the needles as follows: Needle 1 for stitches across heel, Needle 2 for picked-up stitches down
side of foot, Needle 3 for stitches across top of foot (knit stitches off stitch holder if required),
Needle 4 for picked-up stitches on other side of foot. You may find that stitch markers are not
required at first.
www.winwickmum.co.uk 3
Basic 8ply (DK) Socks – Winwick Mum
Shape gusset
Round 1: K to 3 sts before the marker, K2tog, K1, slip marker, knit to next marker,
slip marker, K1, SSK, K to marker.
Round 2: Slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, knit to 3 sts before marker.
Round 3: K2tog, K1, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, K1, SSK, K to marker.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 to shape the gusset. Continue in this way, decreasing by two stitches
at the gusset on every other row until there are 44 stitches on the needle. If you want to
remove the marker at the SSK decrease you can do that now, but keep the other one in to
indicate the start of your round.
Once you have 44 stitches again, continue to knit each round until you reach approximately
1.2 in;3cm before the desired length ready to start the toes. For my UK size 5 feet, this was
about 42 rounds. Don't be afraid to try your sock on before decreasing for the toes!
Toes
At some point whilst decreasing for the toes, if you are using a short circular needle you may
need to change back to DPNs as the number of stitches becomes too small for the circular.
It's up to you when you choose to do that, and how you distribute the stitches across the
needles; just keep following the pattern as set below. Create the toes as follows:
Round 1: K1, SSK, K16 sts, K2tog, K1, place marker (if required), K1, SSK, K16 sts, K2tog, K1.
(40sts)
Round 2: Knit one round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Round 3: K1, SSK, K to 3 sts before marker, K2tog, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK, K to 3 sts
before marker, K2tog, K1. (36sts)
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you have 28 stitches left and divide these between two needles so
that front and back of socks match.
Graft toes using Kitchener stitch, weave in all ends and sew up the small gap at the cuff
where you cast on.
_______________________________________________
Christine Perry is the writer and designer behind the award-winning blog Winwick Mum, where she shares her
obsession with hand-knitted socks and helps beginners to knit their first pairs through the Winwick Mum
Sockalong tutorials. She has written two books: Super Socks (the paperback/e-book version of the Sockalong
tutorials) and More Super Socks (further pattern techniques for beginners) and has collaborated with West
Yorkshire Spinners on a Winwick Mum Collection of Signature 4ply yarn.
www.winwickmum.co.uk 4