Infinite Beauty

Film-formers for Next-generation

Skin Care and Color Cosmetics

Consumer.dow.com
What is a Film-former?

Polymer capable of forming a cohesive and

continuous film on keratinous surfaces with
optimal adhesion and flexibility properties

2
Main Applications and Functional Benefits

Emulsifier Lipstick Skin Protection

Emollient Foundation
Sweat Resistance
Humectant BB Cream

Rheology Modifier Mascara Sebum Resistance

Color Cosmetics Barrier Film

Film-forming
and and
Polymer
polymer
Skin Care Long-lasting Benefits

Sun Care Rub-off Resistance

Fragrance Pigment
Face Care
Wash-off Resistance
Active
Body Care
Preservative Non-transfer
The Role of Film-formers
Film-formers offer a different and
complementary approach to the formation
of a potentially long-lasting “second layer”
over the skin.

This approach can be tailored:

• To the application – color cosmetics
and skin, face or sun care
• To the consumer’s need – specific skin type,
desired comfort level and occlusivity, etc.
• To deliver a positive skin-care
experience that makes an immediate
impression with sensory attributes while
providing longer-term comfort and
protection benefits

4
Ideal Properties of Film-formers
Environmental
H2O Stressors

Compatible; Comfort and

Safe for Topical Permeable to Uniform and Long-Lasting
Easy to Sensory
Application Semi-occlusive Continuous and Removable
Formulate Attributes

• Non-irritating • Breathable • Homogeneous • Rub-off • With Personal • Flexible

• Non-sensitizing Film Spreading Resistance Care • Non-tacky
• Second Skin • Total Protection • Wash-off Ingredients, • Smooth
Resistance Including • Low Film
• Sebum/Sweat Water Residue
Resistance
• Non-transfer
• Lasts All Day
• Easy to Remove

5
Film-formers from Dow
A Range of Film-formers for Performance
and Formulation Flexibility
• Soft to hard films for long-wear and
comfort needs
• Carrier options (volatile or nonvolatile)
or carrier-free for formulation flexibility
• Materials offering a wide range
of compatibility with other
cosmetic ingredients

7
Film-formers from Dow – Differentiation Overview

Organic Silicone

Acrylates Silicone
Resins

Silicone
Cellulosics Resin
Gums

Silicone
Acrylates
8
An Extensive Film-former Portfolio
Technology INCI Name Trade Name
Trimethylsiloxysilicate DOWSIL™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin
Silicone MQ Resin Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate DOWSIL™ RSN-0749 Resin
Silicone
Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate DOWSIL™ 593 Fluid
Resins
Silicone MQ/Tpropyl Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and)
DOWSIL™ MQ-1640 Flake Resin
Resin Blend Polypropylsilsesquioxane
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate/
DOWSIL™ FC-5001 CM Resin Gum
Dimethiconol Crosspolymer
Isododecane (and)
Silicone Resin Gums DOWSIL™ FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum
Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethiconol Crosspolymer
Dimethicone (and)
DOWSIL™ FC-5004 DM Resin Gum
Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethiconol Crosspolymer
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Acrylates/
DOWSIL™ FA 4001 CM Silicone Acrylate
Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer
High Tg
Isododecane (and) Acrylates/
DOWSIL™ FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate
Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer
Silicone Dimethicone (and) Acrylates/
DOWSIL™ FA 4003 DM Silicone Acrylate
Acrylates Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer
Isododecane (and) Acrylates/
Low Tg DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate
Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer
Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer
DOWSIL™ FA 4103 Silicone Acrylate Emulsion
(and) Laureth-1 Phosphate
Organic Acrylates Acrylates Copolymer EPITEX™ 66 Polymer
ETHOCEL™ Standard 4 Premium Ethylcellulose Polymer
Ethylcellulose Ethylcellulose ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 Premium Ethylcellulose Polymer
ETHOCEL™ Standard 10 Premium Ethylcellulose Polymer

9
Properties of Neat
Film-formers
Innovative Test Methods
Water/Sebum Repellency Permeability to Water Vapor Film Flexibility
Contact angle measurement Water loss through collagen Latex extension and release
(water/artificial sebum) coated with test material and observation of cracks
Before After

Film Integrity/Wash-off Resistance Film Durability/Rub-off Resistance

Diffusion of a dye through collagen Test material coated on a skin-mimicking substrate;
coated with test material silicone remaining on the film after several friction
steps is measured by XRF and/or portable colorimeter

Higher Lower
film film
integrity integrity

11
Water Repellency TEST PRINCIPLE

• Most silicone-based film-forming technologies exhibit high contact Evaluates contact angle
of a water droplet when
angle values for water. deposited on a film coated
on glass. Values are taken
• Acrylic film-forming technologies display much lower 2 min after the drop has
been deposited on
water repellency. the film.

105.8 Higher contact

101.3 High water angle indicates
99.0
Water Contact Angle (º)

95.9 97.2 96.2 repellency

100 greater repellency.

76.5
80

60

40
20.2
20
Low water
0 repellency
Film composition:
Pure film-formers (diluted
at 20 wt. % in a solvent
carrier) coated on glass
slide (50 µm)

12
Sebum Repellency TEST PRINCIPLE

• Silicone resin gums display higher sebum repellency than Evaluates contact angle of
a sebum droplet - made of
silicone resins. triolein, oleic acid and
squalane (3/1/1) – when
deposited on a film coated
• The silicone acrylate emulsion displays much higher sebum on glass. Values are taken
2 min after the drop has
repellency than silicone acrylates in solvents. been deposited on
the film.
• Non-silicone film-forming technologies display much lower
Higher contact
sebum repellency. angle indicates
High sebum greater repellency.
Sebum Contact Angle (º)

80 70.2 repellency
62.4
60 53.9
49.1
38.5
40 33.9
22.3
20 17.1
Low sebum
0
repellency
Film composition:
Pure film-formers (diluted
at 20 wt. % in a solvent
carrier) coated on glass
slide (50 µm)

13
Water Vapor Permeability TEST PRINCIPLE

• Most technologies form non occlusive films. Evaluates ability of water

vapor to pass through a film
• Acrylic film-forming technologies can have a semi-occlusive behavior. coated on collagen.

Higher % value indicates

100.2 greater permeability to
100 98.1 97.3
86.8 water vapor.
84.3 Non occlusive
Evaporimeter Units (%)

80.1
80
68.0
60
51.9

40

20
Film composition:

0 Occlusive Pure film-formers (diluted at

20 wt. % active level in a
solvent carrier) coated on
collagen (50 µm)

>80%: Non occlusive

<60-80%>: Slightly
occlusive
<30-60%>: Semi-occlusive
<30%: Occlusive
* Water vapor permeability compared to uncoated collagen set at 100%

14
Film Flexibility TEST PRINCIPLE
SILICONE RESINS AND SILICONE RESIN GUMS
Evaluates flexibility
• Among silicone resins, MQ resins form brittle films, while of a film coated on elastic
band by observation of
Tpropyl resins form soft, flexible films. cracks after extension and
release of the elastic band.

• Silicone resin gums display higher film flexibility than silicone Higher density of cracks
indicates less flexibility.
MQ resins.
Before Elongation After 100% Elongation

DOWSIL™ MQ-1600 0 100 200

Solid Resin (1.5 cSt)
Film composition:
Pure film-formers (diluted
DOWSIL™ MQ-1640 at 20 wt. % active level in a
Flake Resin (1.5 cSt) solvent carrier) coated on
red elastic rubber band
(50 µm)

DOWSIL™ FC-5004
DM Resin Gum
= Flexible film

= Cracks appear

15
Film Flexibility TEST PRINCIPLE
IMPACT OF SOLVENT ON FILM FORMATION
Evaluates flexibility
of a film coated on elastic
• Significant impact of the solvent on film homogeneity and continuity band by observation of
cracks after extension and
release of the elastic band.

Before Elongation After 100% Elongation Higher density of cracks

indicates less flexibility.

Isododecane
DOWSIL™
MQ-1600
Solid Resin 0 100 200
Dimethicone
1.5 cSt Film composition:
Pure film-formers (diluted
at 20 wt. % active level in a
solvent carrier) coated on
Isododecane red elastic rubber band
(50 µm)
DOWSIL™
MQ-1640
Flake Resin
Dimethicone = Flexible film
1.5 cSt
= Cracks appear

16
Film Flexibility TEST PRINCIPLE
SILICONE ACRYLATES AND ORGANICS
Evaluates flexibility
• Lower Tg silicone acrylates exhibit better film flexibility. of a film coated on elastic
band by observation of

• The acrylic polymer emulsion forms flexible films, whereas cracks after extension and
release of the elastic band.
cellulosic derivatives instantly crack upon elongation. Higher density of cracks
indicates less flexibility.
Before Elongation After 100% Elongation

DOWSIL™ FA 4001
CM Silicone Acrylate

0 100 200
DOWSIL™ FA 4003 DM
Silicone Acrylate Film composition:
Pure film-formers (diluted
at 20 wt. % active level in a
DOWSIL™ FA 4103 solvent carrier) coated on
Silicone Acrylate Emulsion red elastic rubber band
(50 µm)

Epitex™ 66 Polymer
= Flexible film

Ethocel™ Std 7 Premium = Cracks appear

(EtOH)

17
Film Integrity/ Wash-off Resistance TEST PRINCIPLE

• Silicone MQ resins and high Tg silicone acrylates form Evaluates ability of blue dye
to migrate through a film
discontinuous film. coated on collagen.

• A dye diffusion as low as 2% indicates excellent wash-off resistance. Sampling times:

6 hours
40
24.9 Higher color intensity
Non
Diffused Amount of Dye (%)

35 indicates greater dye

28.1 continuous film migration and poorer
30 film integrity.

25

20
11.0
15

10 7.7

2.0
5 Continuous
0.4 0.3 0.2
0 film
Film composition:
Pure film-formers (diluted at
20 wt. % active level in a
solvent carrier) coated on
collagen (50 µm)

18
Film Integrity/ Wash-off Resistance TEST PRINCIPLE
IMPACT OF SOLVENT ON FILM FORMATION
Evaluates ability of blue dye
to migrate through a film
• Better film continuity with silicone solvent. coated on collagen.

• Cohesion increases with solvent volatility rate. Sampling times:

1 hour / 6 hours
DOWSIL™ MQ-1640
Silicone Resin Gums Flake Resin Higher color intensity
80

Diffused amount of dye (%)

Diffused amount of dye (%)

66.0 indicates greater dye

60 70 After 1h
After 1h 45.51 After 6h
migration and poorer
50 After 6h 60
film integrity.
40 50 35.0
40 29.1
30
30
20
8.58 20 11.0
10 4.0
0.07 0.37 10 1.1
0 0
DOWSIL™ FC-5004 DM DOWSIL™ FC-5002 IDD Dimethicone Dimethicone Isododecane
Resin Gum (1.5 cst) Resin Gum (Isododecane) 1.5 cSt 2 cSt

Low Tg Silicone Acrylates

Diffused amount of dye (%)

70 After 1h Film composition:

After 6h 49.8
60 Pure film-formers (diluted at
50 20 wt. % active level in a
40 solvent carrier) coated on
30 collagen (50 µm)
20 7.9
7.7
10 0.8
0
DOWSIL™ FA 4003 DM DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID
Silicone Acrylate (2 cst) Silicone Acrylate
(Isododecane)
19
 Film Durability – Rub-off Resistance TEST PRINCIPLE

• More durable films exhibit lower decrease in silicone content Evaluates resistance to
rub-off of a film coated on
upon friction. a skin-mimicking substrate.
• Properties of only Si-based materials can be studied with the Resistance measured by
XRF after friction cycles
XRF method. using a washability
tester/felt band.

Higher % value
indicates greater
(%) (%)

Film with excellent resistance to rub-off.

surface

100
100 100
100 cohesion and
surface

adhesion properties
membrane

80
80 A>C 80
membrane

60
60 60
60
A >> C
thethe

40
40 40
40
atat
Residual SiSi

Film composition:
Residual

20 C>A 20
20
Cohesive film with
Method can be used
poor adhesion on a for neat materials and
00 00
00 1 2
2 3 4 5
5 10
10 25
25 50
50 given substrate for finished formulations
providing they
Number
Number of rub-off
of rub-off cycles
cycles onon a feltband
a felt band contain silicones

20
Film Durability – Rub-off Resistance TEST PRINCIPLE

• Although silicone resins and silicone resin gums exhibit excellent Resistance to rub-off of a
film coated on collagen.
benefits, the best rub-off resistance was obtained from the Resistance measured by
XRF after friction cycles
silicone acrylate technology. using washability tester/felt
band.
Residual Si at the Membrane Surface (%)

High rub-off Higher % value indicates

resistance greater resistance to
rub-off.

DOWSIL™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin

DOWSIL™ MQ-1640 Flake Resin

DOWSIL™ FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum

DOWSIL™ FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate

Film composition:
DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate
Low rub-off Pure film-formers (diluted at
DOWSIL™ FA 4103 ID Silicone Acrylate Emulsion 20 wt. % active level in a
resistance
solvent carrier) coated on
collagen (50 µm)

Number of Rub-off Cycles on Felt Band

* This test cannot be performed on non-silicone materials

21
Conclusions
Benefits of Dow Film-formers

Formulator Advantages ConsumerAdvantages

Multiple film-forming technologies Use of non-occlusive materials to

available for greater versatility preserve skin health and breathability

Multiple carriers available for greater Variable film flexibility for wearing
formulation and manufacturing process comfort and enjoyment
flexibility
Good compatibility with common High sebum and water repellency as
cosmetic ingredients, allowing well as high rub-off resistance
incorporation in common product properties to provide outstanding long-
types such as face care, sun care lasting benefits and a rewarding daily skin
and color cosmetics care experience

23
Film-Formers from Dow – Differentiation Overview

Organic Silicone
DOWSIL™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin
DOWSIL™ MQ-1640 Flake Resin
Improved durability vs. silicone gums but form
brittle films

EPITEX™ 66 Polymer Acrylates Silicone DOWSIL™ FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum

Excellent wash-off resistance Resins DOWSIL™ FC-5004 DM Resin Gum
Improved sebum repellency vs. silicone resins;
friction resistance similar to silicone resins with
ETHOCEL™ Standard 4 Premium excellent film flexibility
Ethylcellulose Polymer
DOWSIL™ FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate
ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 Premium
Ethylcellulose Polymer
Silicone Excellent friction resistance
Cellulosics Resin
ETHOCEL™ Standard 10 Premium DOWSIL™ FA 4003 DM Silicone Acrylate
Ethylcellulose Polymer Gums DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate
Good compatibility with oils Excellent friction resistance and improved
film flexibility vs. DOWSIL FA 4002 ID
Silicone Acrylate

Silicone DOWSIL™ FA 4103 Silicone Acrylate Emulsion

Acrylates Excellent friction resistance, improved film
flexibility, superior water/sebum repellency

24
An Extensive Film-Former Portfolio
Tactile Water Sebum Film Wash-off Film Rub-Off
Technology Trade Name Visual Property Property Repellency Repellency Flexibility Resistance Resistance

MQ DOWSIL™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin Clear and shiny film with resin Hard, High Medium Low Low Medium
Resin DOWSIL™ RSN-0749 Resin aggregates appearing brittle
Silicone Resins

DOWSIL™ 593 Fluid if volatile organic solvent

is used

MQ/ DOWSIL™ MQ-1640 Flake Resin Clear and shiny film with resin Medium High Medium Low Low Medium
Tpropyl aggregates appearing hard,
Resin if volatile organic solvent slightly
Blend is used brittle

Silicone Resin DOWSIL™ FC-5001 CM Resin Gum Clear and shiny film with no cracks Soft, not High Very high High Low to very Medium
Gums DOWSIL™ FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum appearing upon solvent evaporation brittle high, depending
DOWSIL™ FC-5004 DM Resin Gum on solvent

High Tg DOWSIL™ FA 4001 CM Clear and shiny film with Slightly High High Low Low Very high
Silicone Acrylates

polymer Silicone Acrylate few cracks appearing upon brittle

DOWSIL™ FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate solvent evaporation

Low Tg DOWSIL™ FA 4003 DM Clear and shiny film with no Soft, not High High High Low to Very high
polymer Silicone Acrylate cracks appearing upon brittle medium,
DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate solvent evaporation depending on
solvent

DOWSIL™ FA 4103 Silicone Clear and shiny film with no Soft, not High Very high High Very high Very high
Acrylate Emulsion cracks appearing upon brittle
solvent evaporation

Acrylates Epitex™ 66 Polymer Clear and shiny film with no Soft, not Low Low High Very high Not tested
cracks appearing upon brittle
solvent evaporation

Cellulosics Ethocel™ Std 4 Premium Polymer Clear and shiny film with no Hard, Medium Low Low Very high Not tested
Ethocel™ Std 7 Premium Polymer cracks appearing upon brittle
Ethocel™ Std 10 Premium Polymer solvent evaporation

25
Summary of Neat Film Properties
SILICONE RESINS AND SILICONE RESIN GUMS
Tactile Water Sebum Film Film Rub-Off
Product Visual Properties
Properties Repellency1 Repellency1 Flexibility Integrity2 Resistance3
DOWSIL™ MQ-1600 Clear and shiny film with Hard, brittle High Medium Low Low Medium
Solid Resin resin aggregates
DOWSIL™ RSN-0749 Resin appearing if volatile
organic solvent is used
DOWSIL™ 593 Fluid

DOWSIL™ MQ-1640 Clear and shiny film with Medium hard, High Medium Low Low Medium
Flake Resin resin aggregates slightly brittle
appearing if volatile
organic solvent is used
DOWSIL™ FC-5001 Clear and shiny film with Soft, not brittle High Very high High Low to Medium
CM Resin Gum no cracks appearing upon very high,
DOWSIL™ FC- 5002 solvent evaporation depending
IDD Resin Gum on solvent
DOWSIL™ FC-5004
DM Resin Gum
1Based on contact angle measurement (two minutes after droplet deposition)
2Based on film integrity test (amount of diffused dye after 6 hours)
3Tested by XRF fluorescence on silicon atom

26
Summary of Neat Film Properties
SILICONE ACRYLATES

Tactile Water Sebum Film Film Rub-off

Product Visual Properties
Properties Repellency1 Repellency1 Flexibility Integrity2 Resistance3
• DOWSIL™ FA 4001 CM Clear and shiny film Slightly High High Low Low Very high
Silicone Acrylate with few cracks brittle
• DOWSIL™ FA 4002 ID appearing upon
Silicone Acrylate solvent evaporation

• DOWSIL™ FA 4003 DM Clear and shiny film Soft, not High High High Low to Very high
Silicone Acrylate with no cracks brittle medium,
• DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID appearing upon depending
Silicone Acrylate solvent evaporation on solvent

• DOWSIL™ FA 4103 Clear and shiny film Soft, not High Very high High Very high Very high
Silicone Acrylate with no cracks brittle
Emulsion appearing upon
solvent evaporation
1Based on contact angle measurement (two minutes after droplet deposition).
2Based on film integrity test (amount of diffused dye after 6 hours).
3Tested by XRF fluorescence on silicon atom.

27
Summary of Neat Film Properties
ORGANIC ACRYLATES AND ETHYLCELLULOSE

Tactile Water Sebum Film Film Rub-off

Product Visual Properties
Properties Repellency1 Repellency1 Flexibility Integrity2 Resistance3

EPITEX™ 66 Polymer Clear and shiny film Soft, not Low Low High Very high Not tested
with no cracks brittle
appearing upon
solvent evaporation
ETHOCEL™ Standard 4 Clear and shiny film Hard, brittle Medium Low Low Very high Not tested
Premium Ethylcellulose with no cracks
Polymer appearing upon
ETHOCEL™ Standard 7 solvent evaporation
Premium Ethylcellulose
Polymer
ETHOCEL™ Standard 10
Premium Ethylcellulose
Polymer
1Based on contact angle measurement (two minutes after droplet deposition).
2Based on film integrity test (amount of diffused dye after 6 hours).
3Tested by XRF fluorescence on silicon atom.

28
Appendix
Appendix Items

• Film flexibility: all silicone acrylates technologies

• Film integrity: amount of dye diffused after 1 hour
• Foundation durability: effect of the active level

30
Film Flexibility – Silicone Acrylates TEST PRINCIPLE

• Lower Tg silicone acrylates exhibit better film flexibility. Evaluates flexibility

of a film coated on elastic
band by observation of
cracks after extension and
Before Elongation
Before elongation After
After200%
200%Elongation
elongati release of the elastic band.

DOWSIL™ FA 4001 CM Higher density of cracks

indicates less flexibility.
Silicone Acrylate

DOWSIL™ FA 4002 ID
Silicone Acrylate
0 100 200

DOWSIL™ FA 4003 DM Film composition:

Silicone Acrylate Pure film-formers (diluted at
20 wt % active level in a
solvent carrier) coated on
red elastic rubber band (50
DOWSIL™ FA 4004 ID µm)
Silicone Acrylate

DOWSIL™ FA 4103 = Flexible film

Silicone Acrylate Emulsion
= Cracks appear

31
Wash-off Resistance/Film Integrity TEST PRINCIPLE

Evaluates ability of blue dye

• Silicone MQ resins and high Tg Silicone acrylates form less to migrate through a film
coated on collagen.
continuous film.
Sampling times:
1 hour / 6 hours.
2.8 Non
Diffused Amount of Dye (%)

continuous film Higher color intensity

indicates greater dye
3.2 migration and poorer
film integrity.

1.1
0.8
0.3
0.1 0.1 0.1 Continuous
film
Film composition:
Pure film-formers (diluted at
20 wt % active level in a
solvent carrier) coated on
collagen (50 µm).

32
 Foundation Durability TEST PRINCIPLE
EFFECT OF THE ACTIVE LEVEL
Evaluates resistance to
rub-off of a film coated on
a skin-mimicking substrate.
Resistance measured by
DOWSIL™
FA FA 4003
4003 DM 1% DM Silicone Acrylate 1% ACTIVE
ACTIVE XRF after friction cycles
100 100
Residual Si at the Membrane Surface (%)

DOWSIL™
FA FA 4003
4003 DM 2.5%DMACTIVE
Silicone Acrylate 2.5% ACTIVE using a washability
DOWSIL™
FA FA 4003
4003 DM 5% DM Silicone Acrylate 5% ACTIVE
ACTIVE tester/felt band.

Control
Control Higher % value
80 80 indicates greater
resistance to rub-off.

60 60

40 40

Film composition:
20 20 Liquid foundations
(5, 2.5 or 1 wt % active
level) coated at 25 µm

0 0
0 1 2 3 4 5 10 25 50

Number of Rub-off Cycles on Felt Band

33
Thank
You
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