Emmeline sweater

by
Katrine Hannibal
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Emmeline Sweater
Emmeline is a simple and delightful raglan sweater that will suit every knitting skill level. It is worked in 2 strands of
Önling No 10, a combination of mohair and silk, which makes for a wonderfully light texture for almost all seasons of the
year.
The design has a fairly general fit, neither tight nor loose, with a positive ease of approx. 5 cm / 2 inches. It features a
normal armhole depth and 3/4 length sleeves, and the pattern also includes directions for full length sleeves. The body
is slightly short, but the length may of course easily be adjusted as you prefer. You may also work Emmeline in 1 strand
of our luxury wool Önling No 1, and your own final version of the design may be varied by changing e.g. body and sleeve
length, and of course size of positive ease.

Hashtags and 25% Angora, 180 m per 50 g.

#emmelinesweater Color: Army green (Vils)
#oenlingknit #oenling #katrinehannibal (250)250(250)300(300)300(300) g
If you prefer long sleeves, you will need an extra 50 g.
Sizes The sweater is worked all the way through with 1 strand
(XS)S(M)L(XL)2XL(3XL) of Önling No 1.

Measurements or
A: Finished chest: (90)95(100)107(114)119(128) cm /
approx. (35.5)37.5(39.5)42(45)47(50.5) inches Önling No 12, 55% wool, 45% cotton, 800 m per 115 g.
B: Length: (53)54(55)56(57)59(59) cm / approx. (21)21.25 Color: Caramel (42): (115)115(230)230(230)230(230) g
(21.5)22(22.5)23.25(23.25) inches
C: Armhole depth: approx. (21)22(23)24(25)26(27) cm / worked together with
(8.25)8.5(9)9.5(9.75)10.25(10.5) inches
D: Underarm sleeve length, ¾ sleeves: Önling No 10, 90% Mohair, 30% silk, 210
(36)35(35)34(34)33(32) cm / approx. (14.25)13.75(13.75)1 m per 25 g. Color: Warm beige (5875):
3.5(13.5)13(12.5) inches (100)100(100)125(125)125(125) g
E: Underarm sleeve length, long sleeves: If you prefer long sleeves, you will need an extra 25 g of
(46)45(45)44(44)43(42) cm / approx. (18)17.5(17.5)17.25(1 No 10.
7.25)17(16.5) inches.
The sweater is worked all the way through with one
Materials, 3/4 sleeves: strand of Önling No 12 and one strand of Önling No 10 =
Önling No 10, 90% Mohair, 30% silk, 210 m per 25 g. 2 strands held together.
Color: Tea green (3211) (175)175(200)225(225)250(250) g
Gauge
If you prefer long sleeves, you will need an extra 25 g. The 20 sts and 28 rows/rounds of stockinette on needle size
sweater is worked all the way though with 2 strands of 4.5 / US 7 = 10 x 10 cm / 4x4 inches.
Önling No 10 held together.
Recommended circular needle and double-pointed
or needles size 4 and 4.5 / US 6 and 7.
Önling No 1, 75% Merino wool (Merino Superfine 100s) 8 stitch markers.

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 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Knit one row, placing the following stitch markers:

K2 (front panel),
PM, k1 (raglan stitch), PM,
k(16)16(18)18(18)20(20) (sleeve),
PM, k1 (raglan stitch), PM, k(42)43(44)45(46)47(48)
(back panel),
PM, k1 (raglan stitch), PM, k(16)16(18)18(18)20(20)
(sleeve),
PM, k1 (raglan stitch), PM, k2 (front panel)

Next row (WS): Purl back.

INTRODUCTION AND DEFINITIONS Raglan seams and increases

Procedure The raglan seams each consist of one stitch with a
The sweater is worked from the top down with raglan marker on either side. The raglan stitch is worked in
increases. Initially, the neckline is formed by working stockinette as described below:
back and forth. Then the piece is joined into a round, and
the yoke is worked in stockinette in the rounds. The yoke When working back and forth:
stitches are then divided into body and sleeves, which Row 1 (RS): Knit 1
are finished separately. Row 2 (WS): Purl 1
When working in the round:
Definitions and Abbreviations All rounds: Knit 1.
We have listed all general definitions and abbreviations
at the end of this pattern for you to check if you come Make increases BEFORE the marker and the raglan
across a term or phrase that you do not quite understand stitch and AFTER the marker on the other side of the
or have doubts about. The ’grey box’ below lists the raglan stitch.
abbreviations used specifically in this pattern.
Raglan increases are made by knitting an inc-r before the
TIP! raglan stitch and inc-l after the raglan stitch.
If you do come across something you do not quite
understand, it is often helpful to read it aloud to yourself. You may want to check the grey box on page 1 listing
0:) abbreviations, or the Definitions and Abbreviations
section at the end of this pattern.
Abbreviations
k – knit TIP! Watch these videos:
p – purl Right increase = inc-r https://www.youtube.com/
rd(s) – round(s) watch?v=lNkMoIvjIx0
st(s) – stitch(es)
MM – Move marker Left increase = inc-l https://www.youtube.com/
PM – Place marker watch?v=46RhxZDXqmI
Inc-r – With the left needle, pick up the strand between
stitches from the back and knit it through the front loop. Now work back and forth, increasing along the front
Inc-l – With the left needle, pick up the strand between edges to create the beginning of the neckline, as well as
stitches from the front and knit it through the back loop. at all raglan markers.

Work increases as follows:

PATTERN
Yoke Row 1: Increase row = all right side (RS) rows:
K1, inc-l, *k to marker, inc-r, MM, k1, MM, inc-l*, repeat
Cast on (82)83(88)89(90)95(96) stitches on circular from * to * another 4 times, k until 1 st remains, inc-r, k1.
needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 strands of Color A held
together. Row 2: All wrong side (WS) rows: *P to marker, MM, p1,
MM*, repeat from * to * 4 times in total, p to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 8 times in total.

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 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

You now have the following stitches on your needle: Now divide the stitches as follows:
(18) sts (front panel), Knit (82)87(92)99(106)111(120) sts (back panel),
1 st (raglan st), *slip the raglan st and the next (56)60(66)72(78)84(92)
(32)32(34)34(34)36(36) sts (sleeve), sleeve sts on to a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn,
1 st (raglan st), cast on 8 sts immediately following the sts already on the
(58)59(60)61(62)63(64) sts (back panel), 1 st (raglan st), needle*,
(32)32(34)34(34)36(36) sts (sleeve),
1 st (raglan st), Knit (82)87(92)99(106)111(120) sts,
(18) sts (front panel), (front panel), repeat from * to * one more time.

= (162)163(168)169(170)175(176) sts. PM at the center of the new cast on sts under each
sleeve. Beg of rd is now one of the markers under a
Cut yarn and move the stitches from the left to the right sleeve.
needle without knitting them, up to the raglan markers at
the left shoulder back when wearing the sweater. This is You now have (180)190(200)214(228)238(256) sts on
now the beginning of rd. the body.

Work increases at the raglan seams and join the piece Body continued
by casting on another (22)23(24)25(26)27(28) sts at the Work even in stockinette until the sweater measures
center front the first time you get to it. From this point (50)51(52)53(54)55(56) cm / approx. (19.75)20(20.5)20.7
you will work in the round. 5(21.25)21.5(22) inches from the shoulder down.

Rd 1: *Inc-l, k to marker, inc-r, MM, k1, MM*, repeat from Try on the sweater. The rib hem will add another 3 cm /
* to * 4 times in total. 1.25 inch to the total length. If you want your sweater to
be shorter or longer, this is where you need to adjust the
Rd 2: K all sts. length.

Repeat Rds 1 and 2 to a total of (12)14(16)19(22)24(28) Still using circular needle size 4.5 cm / US 7, work the rib
times. You now have the following sts on your needle: stitch hem *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * until the rib hem
(82)87(92)99(106)111(120) sts (back panel), measures 3 cm / 1.25 inch.
1 st (raglan st),
(56)60(66)72(78)84(92) sts (sleeve), Bind off using Italian Bind-off. Make sure not to make
1 st (raglan st), the bind-off edge too tight.
(82)87(92)99(106)111(120) sts (front panel),
1 st (raglan st), Sleeves
(56)60(66)72(78)84(92) sts (sleeve), Slip the (56)60(66)72(78)84(92) sleeve sts + the raglan
1 st (raglan st) sts on either side of the sleeve on to double-pointed
needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Pick up 4 sts from the new
= (280)298(320)346(372)394(428) sts in total. cast-on sts under the sleeve, knit the sts on the needle,
pick up another 4 sts under the sleeve. PM to mark beg
of rd.

You now have (66)70(76)82(88)94(102) sts on the

needle.

3/4 Sleeves
Work even in stockinette until the sleeve measures
(33)32(32)31(31)30(29) cm / approx. (13)12.5(12.5)12.25(1
2.25)11.75(11.5) inches from the armhole.

Try on the sweater. The rib cuff will add another 3 cm

Work even in stockinette until the yoke measures / 1.25 inch to the total length of the sleeve. If you want
(21)22(23)24(25)26(27) cm / approx. (8.25)8.5(9)9.5(9.7 your sleeves shorter or longer, this is where you need to
5)10.25(19.5) inches from the shoulder down. adjust the length.

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 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Still using needles size 4.5 mm, work the rib stitch cuff It is very important that you pick up the same number of
*p1, k1*, repeat from * to * until the rib cuff measures sts from either side of the neck opening, from markers
3 cm / 1.25 inch. 1-2 and 8-1, from 2-3 and 8-7 … etc.

Bind off using Italian Bind-off method, making sure not Using stitch markers, divide your neck opening into 8
to make the edge too tight. sections. See the sketch below.
Begin at Marker 1 and pick up sts as follows: *Pick up
Long Sleeves 3 sts, skip 1 st*, repeat from * to * all the way round the
Work even in stockinette until the sleeve measures neck opening.
(43)42(42)41(41)40(39) cm / approx. (17)16.5(16.5)16.25 Work rib stitch pattern *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * to end
(16.25)15.75(15.25) inches from the armhole. of rd.

Try on the sweater. The rib cuff will add another 3 cm Repeat from * to * until the rib hem measures 3 cm / 1.25
/ 1.25 inch to the total length of the sleeve. If you want inch. Bind off using Italian Bind-off method, making sure
your sleeves shorter or longer, this is where you need to not to make the edge too tight.
adjust the length.
Finishing
Still using needles size 4.5 / US 7, work the rib stitch cuff Weave in ends.
*p1, k1*, repeat from * to * until the rib cuff measures
3 cm / 1.25 inch.

Bind off using the Italian Bind-off method, making sure

not to make the edge too tight.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Neck Hem
Try on the sweater. If you want to adjust the size of the
neckline, this is done after picking up the stitches and
before working the rib hem.

Pick up sts for the neck hem using the working yarn and
circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.

POSITION OF STITCH MARKERS AT NECKLINE

8 2

7 3

6 4

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 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Abbreviations and
techniques
These are our standardized abbreviations and techniques, CDD – Centered Double Decrease
which are included with every knitting pattern. Some of Slip 2 stitches together knit-wise (as if to knit them
the abbreviations and techniques are described in the together), k1, pass the slipped stitches over the one just
actual knitting pattern as well. knitted.

beg – begin(ing) Work stitches as set

cm – centimeter(s) Knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stiches.
dec - decrease
ES – edge stitch M1 – Make 1 stitch (increase)
inc - increase Lift the strand of yarn running between the stitches
k - knit onto the needle, then knit it through the back loop.
k2tog – (decrease) knit 2 stitches together
kwise – knitwise (as if to knit) mm – millimeter(s) M1R – Make 1 stitch leaning to the right.
MM - move marker - shift marker from left to right nee- With the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between
dle and knit on the stitches from behind. Knit this strand through the
M1 – marker in color 1 front loop, thus creating a stitch twisted to the right.
M2 – marker in color 2
p – purl M1L – Make 1 stitch leaning to the left.
PM – place marker With the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between
psso – pass slipped stitch over pwise – purlwise (as if to the stitches from the front. Knit this strand through the
purl) rnd(s) – round(s) back loop, thus creating a stitch twisted to the left.
RS – right side
sl – slip st(s) – stitch(es) RLI – Right Lifted Increase
sl1 purlwise – slip 1 st as if to purl Insert the right needle into the stitch below the next
sl1 knitwise – slip 1 st as if to knit stitch on the needle. Insert the needle through the back
SM – slip marker of the stitch on the WS and knit it. Knit the original stitch
tbl – through the back loop on the needle.
tog – together
WS – wrong side
wyib – with yarn in back
wyif – with yarn in front
yo – yarn over
ssk – Slip, Slip, Knit (decrease)
Slip two stitches one at a time as if to knit. Insert the
left needle into the fronts of these two stitches and knit LLI – Left Lifted Increase
them together through the back loops. Knit the next stitch on the needle. Now insert the left
needle into the stitch 2 stitches below the stitch on the
Pockets right needle. Insert the left needle through front of the
1. 2. stitch on the RS and lift it onto the left needle before
knitting it.

3.

Stretchy bind-off
Work this bind-off rather tightly.
K2, insert left needle into both sts from left to right and k
the 2 sts together through the back loop.

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Emmeline sweater_UK_20230913
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

*Work 1 st (there are once again 2 sts on the right needle), Knit all but the last of these same stitches once again, slip
insert left needle into both sts from left to right and k the the last stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.*
2 sts together through the back loop*. Repeat from * to *
throughout. Repeat from * to * until all the edge stitches have
been bound off. Unless otherwise stated, bind off the
Short rows remaining live stitches of the I-cord itself.
Work to the place indicated by the pattern. Now work
a “wrap and turn” as follows: Holding the yarn in front I-cord
of the work, slip the next stitch from the left to the Cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern
right-hand needle as if to purl. Move the yarn to the back, on a double-pointed needle, so the working yarn hangs
then slip the same stitch back to the left-hand needle. to the left side of the stitches. Do not turn the needle, but
Turn the work and continue as indicated. You have now slide the stitches to the right end of the needle. *Slip the
“wrapped” the yarn around the slipped stitch. working yarn behind these new stitches to begin work,
knit stitches with a second double-pointed needle. Do
When later working this stitch, pick up the wrap and place not turn the needle, but slide the stitches to the right end
it onto the needle, then work it together with the stitch of the needle*. Repeat from * to * until the I-cord is the
itself (knit or purl as indicated by the pattern). correct length.

3-needle bind-off To finish the I-cord, break the yarn and pull the end
Place the 2 pieces of knitting right side against right side through all the stitches on the needle before weaving it in.
and knit them together with a third needle. Knit the first
st on each needle together, *knit the next stitch on each Crocheted provisional cast-on.
needle together and pull the loose st over*. Repeat from * With a contrasting length of scrap yarn, work the desired
to * until all sts are bound off. number of crochet chains around the knitting needle. Chain
a few extra stitches free of the needle before securing the
I-cord bind-off end – but don’t secure it too tightly, as you will need to undo
Cast on the indicated number of stitches for the I-cord it later in order to “unzip” the cast-on. Begin knitting by
(unless you are starting with the stitches of an already working into the stitches on the needle.
established I-cord). Slip the I-cord stitches onto the nee- To undo the cast-on, untie the end of the scrap yarn, pull it
dle to the right of the stitches to be bund off, so that the out of the knitting and place the resulting live stitches onto
working yarn hangs between the I-cord stitches and the a knitting needle to be worked as indicated in the pattern.
stitches to be bound off. 1. 2. 3.

Slip the working yarn behind the I-cord stitches to begin

work. Knit to the last of the I-cord stitches, slip the last
stitch knitwise, knit the first of the edge stitches, then pass
the slipped stitch over.
4. 5.
*Do not turn work. With the yarn in back, slip the stitches
just worked back onto the left-hand needle. Slip the work-
ing yarn behind these stitches to begin work.

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
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Emmeline sweater_UK_20230913
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

Measuring the armhole size? Please make sure that you have thought these things
The armhole length is measured in a straight line from through before knitting the final garment.
the bottom of the armhole to the top of the shoulder.
To get the right garment measurements, you need to
stick to the gauge indicated in the pattern. This requires
shoulder
that you make a swatch – see Getting the gauge right by
making a swatch.

It is just as important that you ”try on” your knitwear as

best you can during the knitting process to decide if any
adjustments are needed. I always try the garment on many
armhole

times in the knitting process to make sure it will fit me.

This is were you
measure the I have often heard of knitters finishing a piece that ends
armhole. up being too large or too small. That is such a shame and
waste of time – so my advice is always to invest a bit of
time in measuring and trying on!

Washing, steaming and maintaining your knitwear

We always recommend that you wash your final knitwear
as it changes shape and form during wash. If you have a
newer washing machine with a gentle wool cycle, it should
be safe to wash your knitwear in the washing machine
using the wool cycle at max 30 degrees Celsius. Other-
Getting the gauge right by making a swatch wise, we recommend washing your knitwear by hand at a
Getting the gauge right by making a swatch We highly temperature of max 30 degrees Celsius.
recommend that you make a 15 x 15 cm swatch of your
knitwear before starting to knit. This swatch should be at Do NOT wring the knitwear but place it soaking wet in
least 10 x 10 cm excluding edges. a protective washing bag and spin it in the washing
machine at max 800 RPM.
You need to check if your gauge is the same as indicated in
the knitting pattern to decide whether you need to adjust Leave the knitwear to dry on a flat surface on a towel or
your needle size up or down. If you don’t do this, you risk a drying rack. Don’t hang it up to dry as the knitwear will
spending many hours knitting something that can end up expand.
being either too large or too small. We know it is not the
most exciting task, but we strongly recommend that you Use wool detergent or a mild shampoo (after all, wool is
knit a sample every time you start a new piece of knitwear. hair) and always in very small amounts when you wash
your knitwear. Only wash your knitwear when it is really
Procedure: Work a swatch of minimum 15 x 15 cm in the needed. Most often it is enough to leave your knitwear out
indicated texture or pattern, and wash it carefully with in the fresh air for a while.
wool detergent or mild shampoo in lukewarm water in the
sink. Let it dry and steam it using an iron held 2 cm above Steam your garment when you want to smooth or
the sample. Then measure. freshen it, as steam has almost the same effect as
washing. But remember not to iron directly on the
Washing and steaming your swatch before measuring is knitwear. Put lots of steam on your iron and hold it at least
important, as the shape and form of knitwear can change 2 cm above the knitwear. You can also place a clean, damp
quite a bit during wash. Steaming the swatch smoothens dishtowel between the knitwear and the iron.
the stitches and makes it easier to measure.

Measure and try on

Your tape measure is one of your most important tools
when knitting. To determine which size you need, you
should start by taking your own measurements. Read
through the pattern to see how the measurements of the
design will fit you. Do you need to shorten or lengthen
the sleeves? Or the body? Have you selected the correct

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
8:9
would like a pattern as well, then remember that they can buy it at oenling.com
Emmeline sweater_UK_20230913
 Designed by Katrine Hannibal for Önling

www.oenling.com

Önling Knit / Önling Knit Community

@oenling / @katrinehannibal
#oenlingknit #oenling #yndlingsstrik #katrinehannibal

If you need help for this pattern, please send a mail to: [email protected]

Önling - Rosenkaeret 14, 2. – DK-2860 Soeborg – Denmark

+45 21 25 25 25 – [email protected] - www.oenling.com

© Önling. The pattern is for private use only and may not be re-sold. The pattern may not be copied.
All rights reserved. Text and photos are protected according to the law of copyrights and may not be re-produced without
written permission from Önling.

This pattern has been made with you, our beloved customer, in mind. If your friends
9:9
would like a pattern as well, then remember that they can buy it at oenling.com
Emmeline sweater_UK_20230913