Chapter 11 Romantic Period

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A La Chinoise (Hairstyle)-

The A La Chinoise was a hairstyle worn by women of a higher social class during
the Romantic Period. It was characterized by pulling the hair back into a bun that
would sit on top of the head and leaving out big curls or ringlets to frame the
face. The hairstyle was often decorated with robbins, combs, and feathers. The
name translates into ‘the Chinese style’ and reflects the Western interest in
Orientalism.
https://ritasv.tumblr.com/post/130955799719/hairstyles-and-hats-ca-1830-part-1
https://lowelldesigns.com/romantic-early-victorian/
https://pdfcoffee.com/fashion-the-definitive-history-of-costume-and-style-2012-
dk-pdf-free.html

Bertha Collar-

Bertha collars are a style of wide, flat collars. Named after Bertha, a character in
Charles Dickens's "The Cricket on the Hearth," these collars became popular during the
1830s and 1840s. Initially part of women's fashion, they were characterized by their
wide, rounded shape that extended over the shoulders, often adorned with lace or
embroidery. The Bertha collar gained prominence as it added an elegant, romantic
touch to dresses, emphasizing the décolletage while maintaining modesty. This fashion
element saw a resurgence in various periods, notably during the Victorian era and later
in the 20th century, influencing bridal and formal wear designs. The enduring appeal of
Bertha collars lies in their ability to evoke a sense of vintage sophistication and timeless
femininity.

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/nmah_627496
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156797
https://www.beautyanswered.com/what-is-a-bertha-collar.htm
Bishop Sleeve-

The bishop sleeve, characterized by its wide shape narrowing into a cuff at the wrist, has been a
recurring fashion trend since the 6th century. It was particularly popular during the 1830s to 1860s
and experienced a resurgence in the mid-1960s, becoming a staple in both dresses and blouses and
later associated with the hippy look. Despite its longevity, the bishop sleeve alone cannot reliably
date a garment due to its intermittent usage throughout history.

https://genealogylady.net/2015/07/26/fashion-moments-bishop-sleeve/

https://sewingthe60s.blogspot.com/2013/07/60s-fashion-elements-bishop-sleeve.html

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1863/

Bonnet-

The bonnet was used as a fashion statement for women during the romantic period. Bonnets were
reinvented for women spending long days in the sun on farms or as pioneers. The straw bonnets
survived the centuries much better than the cotton bonnets. Bonnets could be used for many
occasions, such as for a wedding or for the evening. The Poke bonnet had a wide rounded rim
and extended further out from the face.

Wedding bonnet | American | The Metropolitan Museum of Art (metmuseum.org)

Romantic Era, 1820s Fashion | Fashion-Era

poke bonnet | Fashion History Timeline (fitnyc.edu)


Bowler –

Bowler hats went by many other names but originated in England in 1849 and were
made originally by the Bowler Brothers. They were worn first by working class people
and then by all classes as they were much more practical for daily wear than a top hat.
They are hard and round, and they are close fitting with a low rounded crown. They are
iconic and the first one was made by commission for the younger brother of the 2nd earl
of Leicester.

Bustle-

The term “bustle” was actually not used until about 1830, and now describes a
device that thrusts out the skirt at the back of the waist. Bustles were cage-
looking “lobster tails'' that created the asymmetrical shape that women desired
without all the added-on fabric, similar to a hoop skirt. Bustles then developed
into the padding on the hips to create a fishtail shape and smaller lobster tails
that fit closer to the body. Waistlines were brought up a couple of inches from the
natural waistline to further exaggerate the bum area.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/bustle/
https://sucheternaldelight.wordpress.com/2008/10/10/the-birth-and-death-of-the-
victorian-bustle-an-apologia/
https://maggiemayfashions.com/calicoball/fashionhistory/the-victorian-era-
second-bustle-period-and-aesthetic-dress-1883-1890/
Carriage Dress -

The carriage dress, also known as the walking dress, was an outdoor dress with
a lot more ornamentation than a normal traveling dress. It’s basically the
equivalent of calling a dress a “car dress”. It would be either too fancy or too
impractical to travel long distances without the help of modern transportation.
This dress was a way of showing off wealth, a public resume for your wallet if you
will.
https://barbaraburkeauthor.wordpress.com/2020/06/29/dressing-for-success-in-
regency-england/
https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait-list.php?
search=ap&subj=725;Fashion+Plates%3A+Activities+and+occasions+-
+Carriage+dress#:~:text=There%20were%20frequent%20depictions%20of,it
%20could%20be%20folded%20away.
https://mediakron.bc.edu/fashiondecor/romantic-women-silhouette-slideshow/
romantic-women-silhouette-slideshow/1830-carriage-dress/1845-day-dresses

Chemisette-

a.
b. A chemisette, also known as a tucker, resembles a modern half-tee. Worn
under outer garments, it filled in necklines to add modesty and elegance.
Extending only to the bosom, chemisettes lacked defined armholes and
were made from lightweight materials, making them ideal for hot summer
days. They came in various styles, often featuring lace or embroidery,
allowing wearers to change the look of their outfits easily and
economically without needing multiple dresses.
c. chemisette | Fashion History Timeline (fitnyc.edu)
d. Chemisette - Wikipedia
e. The Chemisette - Jane Austen articles and blog

Day Dress -

As the name implies, these gowns were worn by women specifically during the day.
This was done as a way to go about daily activities without having to worry about getting
your fancy dress/gown during the day. It is a little difficult for us to tell the difference
between a day dress and the other styles of dresses/gowns from this era, but they have
some distinguishing details about them that help to separate them from other dress
type. These days dresses were often made of more sturdy materials such as cotton and
wool, whereas a fancier gown worn for evening parties would be made of things like
satin. Day dresses also sported a higher neckline and longer sleeves. They would also
have a shorter hemline too.

https://lowelldesigns.com/romantic-early-victorian/

http://char.txa.cornell.edu/ART/DRESS/HISTORIC/ROMANTIC/romantic.htm

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1820-1829/

Demi-gigot Sleeve -

The demi-gigot sleeve was full at the shoulder and fitted at the wrist. Some larger
sleeves even required hoop supports. They became extremely popular in the 1830s and
had a revival in the 1890s. These sleeves were common for everyday wear, with
evening wear featuring the same puff, but without extending all the way to the wrists.
For lower-class women, these sleeves were much more toned down, some only
gathered at the upper sleeves or lightly padded to imitate the popular silhouette.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/gigot-sleeve/
https://www.mainememory.net/record/105388
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159535

Eton Suit - Elaine Bleazard

These suits were made for young boys. The Eton Suit mimicked the uniforms that were
worn by the young school boys who attended the Eton School in England. This was a
small, single-breasted suit for young boys. The end of the jacket ended at the waist, and
the pants were high-waisted. I can only assume that the age of encouraging children to
learn helped make this trend popular because it was a school uniform.
https://maggiemayfashions.com/calicoball/fashionhistory/the-romantic-era-1820-1850/
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159430#:~:text=The%20Eton%20suit
%20originated%20as%20the%20school,high%20social%20standing%20in%20the
%20United%20States.
https://www.thehenryford.org/collections-and-research/digital-collections/artifact/
224576#:~:text=Eton%2Dstyle%20suits%20%2D%2D%20the%20short%20jacket
%20and,Eton%20suits%20for%20school%20or%20special%20occasions.

Gigot Sleeve-

This style of sleeves was very popular in the 1830s. It largely puffed out at the outline of
the arm hole and tapered to a close-fitting cuff at the wrist. In the 1890s it was also
referred to as the “Leg of Mutton” sleeve. The similar style demi gigot sleeve is tapered
at the elbow instead of the wrist. This dramatic silhouette is an easy marker to
recognize the Victorian era. The exaggerated shape of gigot sleeves was often used to
balance wide skirts, creating a balanced and imposing look that was both fashionable
and a statement of one's social standing and taste in the period.
https://maggiemayfashions.com/calicoball/fashionhistory/the-romantic-era-1820-1850/
https://thedreamstress.com/2020/08/rate-the-dress-a-glory-of-green/light-green-woven-
silk-dress-with-gigot-sleeves-ca-1835-fashion-museum-bath/
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1891-1893-pingat-black-day-dress/

Gilet Corsage -

The gilet corsage was French-inspired. The term ‘gilet’ refers to the waistcoat and the
term ‘corsage’ refers to a bodice, the close, tightfitting upper part of the dress. They
were made in the style of a man’s waistcoat. In the 1840s, the gilet corsages would take
the shape of a bell and would have stiff crinolines, but by the end of the Romantic
period, the gilet corsages would have a basque shape, which was very tight to wear.
The gilet corsage really flattered women and was worn for formal occasions.
https://maggiemayfashions.com/calicoball/fashionhistory/the-romantic-era-1820-1850/
#:~:text=The%20Gilet%20corsage%20was%20a,the%20circumference%20of%20the
%20hem.

https://www.ginadiamondsflowerco.com/history-of-corsages-wristlets-boutonnieres/

https://ambrosiaeventsmke.com/guide-to-corsages-and-boutonnieres/#:~:text=Corsages
%20symbolize%20more%20than%20just,that%20you're%20opting%20for.
Laced Slippers-

Worn between 1835 and 1855 these shoes had side lacing, a flat sole, and
narrow squared toe with minimal wear, fine materials, and delicate
craftsmanship of this pair suggest they were worn only for special occasions
The outside layer is weighted silk satin with a thin kid leather heel supports
added between the silk and the inner lining. The outer soles are of hard leather
with Slippers being the preferred footwear for evening parties and balls, so
these boots were likely worn to formal daytime events.
https://www.wardrobeshop.com/blogs/victorian-era/an-in-depth-look-at-victorian-
footwear
https://www.americanduchess.com/products/bronte-womens-slippers-black
https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/tag/romantic-era-fashion/

Marie sleeve-

Marie sleeves are full long sleeves tied in segments or puffs down the sleeve. They can
be tied with ribbons or sewn with bands. The Marie sleeve was named because of a
“similar style worn by Marie de Médicis, Queen of France at the beginning of the 17th century.”
They are usually cut in a long rectangle and segmented- modern uses of elastic to make them.
https://janeaustensworld.com/tag/marie-sleeves/
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15540/dress-unknown/#:~:text=This%20particular
%20example%20has%20a,beginning%20of%20the%2017th%20century.
https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/all-about-sleeves/#:~:text=Marie%20Sleeve,shoulder
%20all%20the%20way%20down.

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