BOOK

PREVIEW

Le Bal Café’s
owners Alice Quillet
and Anna Trattles
make all the
desserts, including
this almond-
coconut orange
cake (p. 72).

Recipes from Paris’s

Best New Bistros
A NEW GENERATION OF CHEFS IS SERVING ASTONISHINGLY REFINED, INVENTIVE YET
AFFORDABLE FOOD IN RESTAURANTS THAT LOOK LIKE LAID-BACK BISTROS.
BY JANE SIGAL PHOTOGRAPHS BY FREDRIKA STJÄRNE

W
HEN I WAS at cooking school in curated lists of wines from established and emerging regions.
Paris in the 1980s, I knew very It’s a startling turnaround in a country that still marvels over
well what a bistro was: a hangout the 1976 Judgment of Paris, a blind tasting in which California
with a zinc bar, tiled floors and wines beat out Burgundies and Bordeaux.
reassuringly predictable dishes like I became so interested in French cooking’s new identity
food stylist: simon andrews. plates by dbo home

blanquette de veau. Ambitious that I decided to write a book, Bistronomy: Recipes from the
cooking happened elsewhere, in Best New Paris Bistros (just released). I wanted to find out
hushed, expensive dining rooms. But things change: Chefs how these chefs, many with haute cuisine backgrounds, were
began liberating good food from formal settings. In 2011, when creating this deceptively simple food. I spent a year squeezed
the dazzling Bertrand Grébaut opened Septime, the concept of into tiny kitchens, like the one chef Dai Shinozuka runs
refined, inventive yet affordable food with a bistro aesthetic at Les Enfants Rouges. Once, in a space-starved galley, I nearly
took off and became a movement with a name: bistronomy. stepped in a frigid tub of blanched white asparagus on the floor.
One of the great things about bistronomy is its inclusiveness. “It’s constraint that motivates me,” says Le Servan’s Tatiana
Kitchens are not all-male French clubs; you’ll find lots of Levha. The 30-year-old chef, who worked at Michelin-three-
women and cooks from Japan, England, America; some, like stars Arpège and Astrance, opened her restaurant last year
James Henry, come from as far away as Australia. Even wine in a revamped café in a former borderland region of the city.
lists are more open-minded. Instead of rough Beaujolais served Like many of the neo-bistros, Le Servan lacks square footage,
in thick carafes, there’s serious glassware designed to show off so there’s not much expensive equipment. There are also no

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28-course tasting menus. At dinner Levha offers a handful Tomatoes Two Ways with 1. Halve the tomatoes cross-
of starters and mains. With only three other chefs in Crab and Soppressata wise. Grate them on a box
the kitchen, she can improvise as inspiration strikes. Total 50 min; Serves 4 grater, discarding the skin; you
should have 1 1/2 cups of pulp.
“Our cooking is more spontaneous than anyone could James Henry, who cooked at
imagine,” she says. The Filipina-French chef refers to her Bones, smokes the tomatoes 2. In a medium saucepan, heat
own past and traditions—for instance, stuffing guinea hen for his colorful salad; as the oil. Add the onion and
with a voluptuous ginger-herb butter (p. 74). a shortcut, author Jane Sigal garlic and season with the red
recommends fresh tomatoes. pepper, paprika, salt and black
One reason talented chefs are drawn to bistronomy is
pepper. Cook over moderate
that if you keep costs low, you can quickly be your own 1 lb. ripe tomatoes heat, stirring occasionally, until
boss. “It can take so much time to climb the traditional the onion is softened, about
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
restaurant ladder,” explains Levha. At Haï Kaï, chef- 5 minutes. Add the wine and
¼ cup minced white onion
owner Amélie Darvas, who learned her technique in grand simmer until just evaporated,
kitchens like Le Meurice and Hélène Darroze, makes a point 2 garlic cloves, minced 3 minutes. Add the grated
of using inexpensive ingredients. Her light, bright, citrusy Pinch of crushed tomatoes and basil sprig and
“tartare” (p. 72) features smoked fish red pepper cook, stirring occasionally,
until the sauce thickens,
“Constraint instead of sushi-grade tuna. Pinch of sweet paprika
20 to 25 minutes. Discard the
motivates Another way neo-bistros cut costs Kosher salt and basil sprig.
is by dispensing with pastry chefs.
me,” says black pepper
3. Add the soppressata to
bistronomy You won’t find intricate confections;
instead, the desserts can be prepared
½ cup dry white wine
the sauce and cook, stirring,
cooking by any cook or even a dishwasher.
1 large purple or green basil until cooked through, about
sprig, plus basil sprigs
star Tatiana At Le Bal Café and their coffee shop, and flowers (optional),
5 minutes. Spoon the sauce
into shallow bowls and cover
Levha. Ten Belles, co-owners Alice Quillet for garnish
with the sliced tomatoes.
and Anna Trattles keep it simple: 2 oz. uncured soppressata Season with salt and pepper.
Pureed oranges flavor the incredibly moist almond-coconut or hot Italian sausage, Top with the crab, garnish with
crumbled basil and serve.
cake and whipped cream topping (p. 72).
I learned so much from those bistronomy kitchens, and 1½ lbs. heirloom tomatoes,
WINE Full-bodied, minerally
cut into 1/2 -inch slices
I’d watch, from a corner, for as long as I could. But once Jura white: 2011 Domaine Badoz
service reached its frenetic peak, I was usually booted to the 4 oz. lump crabmeat Côtes du Jura Chardonnay.
(about 3/4 cup)
bar. That was OK: Counters offer some of the best seats
in the house at these spots. I’d get a glass of New World
white wine and take notes for my book.

Jane Sigal is F&W’s France correspondent.

Australian-born James
Henry, far right, brings
an international
perspective to Paris with
dishes like tomatoes
with crab and soppressata.

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 Book Preview Bistronomy

Chef Amélie
Darvas, far right,
uses masking tape
for signage at Haï
Kaï. Her delightful
tartare is made
from smoked fish.

“Amélie Darvas, who learned her technique in grand kitchens

like Le Meurice, makes a point of using inexpensive ingredients.”

Almond-Coconut 2. Put the oranges in a micro- Smoked Whitefish 1. In a saucepan of salted boiling
Orange Cake wave-safe bowl; add enough Tartare with Herb Oil water, blanch the fava beans
page 68 water to reach halfway up the Total 30 min; Serves 4 or peas for 1 minute. Drain and
side. Cover partially with plastic cool in a bowl of ice water
Active 40 min; Total 2 hr 45 min This bright-flavored tartare
Serves 12 wrap. Microwave on high power, for 1 minute. Drain well; if using
turning the oranges every from Amélie Darvas at favas, slip off and discard the
This coconut-macaroon-like 3 minutes, until very soft, about Haï Kaï can also be made with tough outer skins. Transfer the
cake is from chef-bakers 15 minutes; drain. Quarter the smoked bluefish. beans or peas to a bowl.
Alice Quillet and Anna Trattles oranges, discarding any seeds. ½ lb. fava beans, shelled 2. In a small bowl, whisk the
of Le Bal Café. In a food processor, puree (1/2 cup) or 1/2 cup frozen olive oil with the parsley and
Unsalted butter, until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. baby peas chives and season with salt and
for greasing 3. In a large bowl, beat the eggs ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil pepper. Add 2 tablespoons
1½ lbs. blood oranges or with the granulated sugar. ¼ cup loosely packed of the herb oil to the favas in the
navel oranges, scrubbed Whisk in 1½ cups of the orange flat-leaf parsley, chopped bowl along with the smoked
6 large eggs puree. Using a spatula, fold fish, microgreens and lime juice.
2 Tbsp. chopped chives
in the coconut, almond flour Toss gently to coat. Season

food stylist: simon andrews. cazuelita by humble ceramics

2¾ cups granulated sugar and baking powder. Scrape the Kosher salt and pepper with salt and pepper and the
5 cups unsweetened mixture into the prepared pan ½ lb. smoked whitefish, piment d’Espelette.
shredded coconut (9 oz.) and smooth the top. Sprinkle skinned and cut into 3. In another bowl, whisk the
3 cups almond flour the sliced almonds over the 1/4 -inch pieces
crème fraîche and lemon juice.
cake and bake until a toothpick ½ cup loosely packed
1 tsp. baking powder Spoon the tartare onto plates
inserted in the center comes microgreens and dollop the lemon cream
½ cup sliced almonds out with a few moist crumbs
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice alongside. Drizzle the remain-
2 cups heavy cream attached, about 45 minutes.
ing herb oil on top and serve.
Let cool slightly on a rack. ¼ tsp. piment d’Espelette
2 Tbsp. confectioners’ sugar (see Note) NOTE The mildly spicy Basque
4. In a bowl, whip the cream
¼ cup apricot jam, melted ¼ cup crème fraîche chile powder piment d’Espelette
with 1 tsp. water
with the confectioners’
is available at specialty food
sugar and fold in the remaining 1 Tbsp. fresh Meyer lemon
stores and from amazon.com.
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. ¼ cup of orange puree. or lemon juice
Brush a 10-inch springform pan WINE Brisk, savory Muscadet:
5. Brush the melted jam over
with butter. Line the bottom 2014 Domaine du Haut
the warm cake and let cool.
of the pan with parchment paper Bourg Côtes de Grandlieu.
Unmold the cake and serve with
and butter the paper. the orange whipped cream.

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Thyme-Basted Pork 1. In a 12-inch ovenproof skillet, crushed garlic and the thyme to 2 Tbsp. almond meal
Tenderloin with Oyster heat the grapeseed oil until the skillet and cook until the 1 Tbsp. finely grated
Mushrooms shimmering. Season the pork butter is foamy. Baste the meat fresh ginger
with salt and pepper and cook with the butter just until the
Total 45 min; Serves 4 Kosher salt and pepper
over moderately high heat until butter browns, 2 to 3 minutes.
Chef Dai Shinozuka of browned all over, about 5 min- Four 6 oz. skin-on,
4. Transfer the pork to a cutting boneless chicken breasts
Les Enfants Rouges uses an utes. Transfer to the oven and
board and cut into thick slices.
enticing, crunchy mix of roast the pork until an instant- 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Spoon the mushrooms onto
walnuts, shallot and chives to read thermometer inserted in
a platter, top with the pork and 1 shallot, finely chopped
garnish pan-roasted pork. the thickest part registers 135°,
drizzle with the brown butter. 1½ cups dry white wine
18 to 20 minutes.
1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil Garnish with walnuts, shallot,
2. Meanwhile, in a very large chives and flaky salt and serve. 1½ cups chicken stock
One 1¼-lb. pork
tenderloin skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of 1. In a small bowl, mash the
the butter in the olive oil. Add Ginger-Nut-Butter- softened butter with the herbs,
Kosher salt and pepper
the mushrooms, season with Stuffed Chicken Breasts 2 tablespoons of cashews,
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter salt and pepper and cook over
Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4 the almond meal and ginger.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil moderately high heat, turning Season with salt and pepper.
occasionally, until golden, about Nut-and-ginger butter flavors
1½ lbs. oyster mushrooms, Using your fingers, loosen the
15 minutes. Add the minced this chicken, adapted from
trimmed and torn into skin of each chicken breast to
garlic and the parsley and cook, a guinea-hen recipe by chef
1-inch pieces form a pocket, then stuff with
stirring, until the garlic is Tatiana Levha at Le Servan.
4 garlic cloves, 2 minced a generous tablespoon of the
fragrant, about 30 seconds. ginger-nut butter. Season the
and 2 crushed 1 stick unsalted butter,
Remove from the heat. 4 Tbsp. softened chicken with salt and pepper
2 Tbsp. chopped parsley
3. Set the pork over moderate ¼ cup mixed chopped herbs, and refrigerate until the butter
2 large thyme sprigs heat. Add the remaining such as parsley, chives, is firm, about 20 minutes.
Toasted walnuts, chopped 3 tablespoons of butter, the tarragon and dill
2. Preheat the oven to 400°.
shallot and chives and 2 Tbsp. minced raw cashews, In a large cast-iron skillet, heat
flaky sea salt, for garnish plus more for sprinkling the oil. Add the chicken breasts
skin side down and cook over
moderately high heat until well
Author Jane Sigal researches browned, 5 minutes. Turn the
her book in Les Enfants breasts and cook for 3 minutes.
Rouges’ tiny kitchen with Transfer the skillet to the oven
chef Dai Shinozuka. He and bake the chicken for 8 to
bastes pork tenderloin with 10 minutes, until just cooked
brown butter before serving. through. Transfer to a platter
and keep warm.
3. Melt 1 tablespoon of the but-
ter in the skillet. Add the shallot
and cook over moderately high
heat, stirring, until softened,
1 minute. Add the wine and cook,
scraping up the browned bits,
until nearly evaporated, about
3 minutes. Add the stock and
simmer until reduced to 1/2 cup,
about 9 minutes. Whisk in
the remaining 3 tablespoons of
butter and season with salt
and pepper. Strain the sauce
into a bowl.
4. Spoon the sauce onto plates.
food stylist: simon andrews

Set the chicken on top,

sprinkle with cashews and serve.
WINE Ripe, focused Chenin
Blanc: 2012 Les Vignes Herbel
La Rue aux Loups.

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