Pet Bird Plush Sewing Pattern

cholyknight.
com
pet bird collection

plush sewing pattern
pet bird plush 2 introduction
pet bird collection

plush sewing pattern
If you have some fine feathered friends, then this plush pattern will help you create a whole
flock of them! It’s designed to be extremely customizable so you can make lots of different
small, chubby birds. You’ll find examples for a budgie, pigeon, cockatoo, cardinal, canary,
raven, and lovebird. They feature a round, pudgy body with lots of wing, beak, foot, and crest
options. You can make wired wings that spread wide open, or keep it simple with non-wired
closed wings. There are also wired feet that allow your bird to stand on its own, or keep it
simple with non-wired feet for a sitting bird.
This design is suited mostly for small pet birds, but with all the options you could adapt this
to any of your other favorite birds as well!
budgie cardinal
nostrils use wire for
(cere) posable open optional
wings crest
love bird short

short straight
curved beak
use beak
wire for
standing
feet skip the
wire for
closed contrast
wings chest
pigeon raven
tail sticks
up in back
skip the
wire for a
sitting bird
2-toed feet
(zygodactyl)
contrast long
neck straight
bands beak
3-toed feet
(anisodactyl)
sew desu ne?

| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2022 Choly Knight // Items sewn using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
pet bird plush 3 materials & notions
difficulty: skills
needed:
• ladder stitch
The most challenging part of this plush is likely the curves in the tail • fusible web applique
and the feet. They’re very tight curves so you’ll want to sew slowly • sewing curves (straight
and pin carefully. to curved pieces, inner
If you decide to put wire in the wings or feet, that will also take some to outer curves, outer to
extra effort and time, so it may feel more like a 6/10 in difficulty. outer curves, etc.)
• darts
makes: • matching notches &
points
• basting
one plush: About 41/2” wide from each side of head and 5½” long • gathering; gathering
from front of head to back of body (not including beak or tail). It stitch
measures 8” tall when sitting and about 9” tall if standing. • using wire
fabric & notions

Because bird markings can
notions:
differ greatly, only fabric
estimates are given below. For • matching sewing thread jewelry wire:
more specific quantities and • basic sewing tools *see pages
6-7 for more info • Jewelry wire provides strong
layouts, see page 12-13. support for making your bird
• poly-fil stuffing stand or giving it spreadable
main body wings. Something between
fabrics: optional wiring supplies

• about 50” of 1” wide scrap
10-12 gauge works well. To
bend and cut the wire, you’ll
For a solid color bird need a pair of pliers (jewelry
fabric pliers from your craft store will
• ½ yd. of fabric • jewelry pliers work fine). Many of these pliers
• wire cutter come with a wire cutter built
If your bird has an accent • hot glue in, so there’s no need to buy a
beak or feet add: • 15” of 12 gauge jewelry wire separate wire cutter.
for posable feet • Don’t try to cut the wire with
• 1/8 yd. of accent fabric • 17” of 12 gauge jewelry wire regular craft or fabric scissors
for wings or it could seriously damage the
If your bird has accent blades.
wings or head add: jewelry
• ¼ yd. of accent fabric pliers
wire cutter
is built in
12 gauge
jewelry
wire
sew desu ne?

long-pile minky
suggested fabrics
main body: minky or fleece
minky Medium weight, plush fabrics with about 20%-30%
stretch along the crosswise grain work best for this
project. The varieties shown to the left are some good
cuddle fleece options and names to look for. Try to avoid heavyweight
versions of fleece that are intended for outdoor apparel
or they may cause trouble for the small, detailed pieces.
micro fleece
You can also use non-stretch fabrics (such as felt), but
be aware that the curves will be more difficult to sew and
anti-pill fleece the result will look different. The plush will become more
elongated and the edges will look pointier.
fleece
10” of minky stretches to 13”
= 30% stretch
minky vs. felt
Shannon Luxe
results with Cuddle Hide (10mm) Shannon Luxe
Cuddle Velvet
other minky (10mm)
textures
• You can use
fabrics with a
longer fur to
achieve fluffier Shannon Luxe
Cuddle Sherpa
results or to
mimic different
bird breeds.
Shown here
are some of the
affects you can
get.
sew desu ne?

paper on
applique fabrics: one side
adhesive
on the
other
fusible web:
for all eye styles for cardinal face mask • A sheet of adhesive with a
• 3” x 3” of accent fabric for • 6” x 3” of black fabric for face paper backing. Not to be
outer eye or eye white mask confused with fusible
• 3” x 3” of black fabric for eye • 6” x 3” of light or heavy duty interfacing, which is adhesive
• 2” x 2” of white fabric for eye fusible web attached to a fabric/fiber
shines or eye whites backing.
• optional 2” x 2” of pink fabric • It’s used to fuse to decorative
for blush fabric. Then the paper is
• 4” x 4” of light or heavy duty removed and the adhesive is
fusible web left behind. Then you can fuse
the fabric to your main project
like an iron-on patch. It comes
in pre-packaged sheets and
by the yard. Brands include
for a cockatoo crest Wonder Under and Heat n’
Bond.
• 5” x 4” of pink fabric for crest
accent
• 5” x 4” of light or heavy duty
fusible web
for budgie face markings
• 3” x 3” of black fabric for
feathers, nostrils, and eye
spots
• 2” x 2” of blue fabric for cheek
spots
fusible web
suggested
for wing markings
• 7” x 9” of accent fabric for
fabrics:
wing markings • Good applique fabrics include
• 7” x 9” of light or heavy duty flannel, cotton, felt, minky, and
fusible web fleece.
• Flannel and cotton are best for
detailed applique with a lot of
layers because they’re thinner.
cockatiel face markings Meanwhile felt, minky, and
• 3” x 3” of orange fabric for fleece are better for simpler
cheek spots applique.
• Flannel is used in the example
• 2” x 2” of black fabric for instructions (page 14).
nostrils
fusible web
sew desu ne?
pet bird plush 6 starter tools
starter tools
If you’re new to sewing and a little baffled by all the sewing tools needed to get started, check out
the list here. It describes all the absolute basics for tackling a project in a format that lets you choose
how much you want to spend. Some of these items you might already have around the house!
As you collect tools for your arsenal over time, consider adding tools that are more job-specific --
these items come with the note suggesting buying all 3. Just buy these in the order shown as your
funds allow. This will build your collection from more generic tools to more specific, and you’ll be
able to tackle more techniques and projects in the future!
good better best

your hands starter mid-range
machine
machine machine
sewing
Takes a bit longer

than using a Found at Usually found at
machine, but you department stores sewing machine
have more control for $50-150. All you dealers for
over where you stitch. Great for when need is a straight and zigzag stitch, $150-400. Will have fewer issues
you’re starting out or doing fine detail and preferably variable stitch length. than a cheaper machine. Best if you’re
work! serious about sewing.
↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

scissors
craft fabric embroidery

scissors scissors scissors
Anything that will Cost $5-15 at most Tiny and accurate,
cut paper and fabric. sewing stores. Much these are ideal for
Might cause some sharper and should precise cutting work
frustration, but it’ll get you started. only be used for fabric. Spring-loaded and getting where larger scissors can’t
varieties are easy on your hands. reach.

thread
all-purpose heavy duty thread

thread thread conditioner
Most basic polyester Nice for hand sewn Strengthens and
threads are perfect parts that need prevents tangles
for plush sewing. extra strength, like in your thread for
Nothing fancy required. attaching heads, eyes & noses, etc. machine and hand-sewing.

plastic head metal pins ball-point
pins pins
pins
Pins with a metal

All-purpose pin head so they’re Ideal when using
in a relatively long safe to iron. The knit fabrics in
length. Big plastic small head is less plushes. Ball-point
head is easy to see, but melts when likely to catch on your thread while pin tip passes through knit fabrics
ironed. hand-sewing easily.
sew desu ne?

pet bird plush 7 starter tools
good better best

needles
sharps universal fabric

A basic hand-sewing needles specific
needle. You’ll always need Can handle a needles
one of these regardless of variety of basic If using special fabric,
whether or not you have plush fabrics on pick up needles that
a machine. They’ll get machine. Might be are specific to it, such
into places that machines can’t. troublesome on specialty fabrics. as stretch needles for knits.
chopstick point hemostats

turning
Narrow and turner A medical tool

point
precise, but just Specifically that’s narrow and

blunt enough to designed to blunt but also grips.
avoid poking holes. turn points, so it Turns thin pieces
You can use both sides depending on works very intuitively. Hard to get very and grabs stuffing for small areas.
the narrowness you need. narrow areas though. Incredibly useful.

measuring
tape measure ruler/yard quilting

Super cheap and great stick ruler
for measuring curves. More accurate than Measures in two
Flexible so it gets into a tape measure dimensions; great
hard-to-reach areas. since it’s metal or for checking if
plastic and won’t bend on you. things are parallel or perpendicular.
pencils chalk fabric

marking
Usually washes out or Great on dark marker

brushes away. Hard to fabrics. Brushes Specially designed
mark some slippery or away easily; even to mark fabrics and
fluffy fabrics. Colored better with a cloth. wash away with
pencils are slightly better. Not as precise as a pencil. water. Precise and clear.

basting
glue &
glue stick hot glue fabric glue

Washable kinds are Creates a Ideal glue for basting
great for basting fabric quick-drying, strong fabric. Takes longer to
pieces together. Not bond so it’s great dry but is best suited to
the strongest bond, for plush pieces that fabric. More accurate
but it’ll do. are awkward to hold than a glue stick.
together before sewing.
Seam ripper iron/ironing board

and...
Don’t need anything fancy for this. Unlike other types of sewing, plush
Everyone makes mistakes and everyone projects don’t need much ironing.
needs a seam ripper. But they’re handy for fusible web
applique or for pressing crisp
fabrics.
sew desu ne?

pet bird plush 8 the pattern pieces
pattern key
Below is a list of the pattern templates found in this collection. You’ll find a few places where you’ll
need to make a choice on design. This is where you can work to accommodate the unique look of
your bird. To find where the pieces are within the document, see the next page.
choose one type choose one

letter piece of head back
(B1 or B2)
type of tail
feather
letter piece
head pieces (G1 or G2) tail feathers
A head front G1 small feathers
B1 basic head back if your head crest G2 broad feathers
is a different color
B2 crested head back than the head, choose one beaks
choose one type of beak
C1 upward crest (C1 or C2) (H, I, J, or K) H1-2 small curved beak
C2 backward crest I1-2 large curved beak
basic body (D) J1-2 small straight beak
D1 body K1-2 large straight beak
D2 belly L nostrils
contrast chest body (E) choose one feet
type of foot
E1 body choose pieces (N or O) M leg
from one body
E2 belly type (D, E, or F)
N1-2 2-toed feet
(zygodactyl)
E3 chest
neckband body (F) O1-2 3-toed feet
(anisodactyl)
choose one
F1 body type of wing wings
(P1 or P2)
F2 belly P1 open wing
F3 middle neck band P2 closed wing
F4 top neck band pizza
X1 pizza top
to see examples of
X2 crust
these design choices X3 bottom
on finished birds,
see page 11
sew desu ne?

print layout
To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 51-67.
Below is a thumbnail of all of the template pages for this pattern. If you wish to only print certain
pattern pieces, refer to the page numbers below.
If you’re unfamiliar with printing and assembling a .pdf pattern, see the next page.
contrast chest body:

pg. 5-6
pg. 55-56 of document
L C1 D1 E3 E1
A
1 B1 B2
2 C2
3 5 E2
6 body with
neckbands:
pg. 7-8
head pieces: D2 pg. 57-58 of
4
pg. 1-2 basic body: document
pg. 51-52 of pg. 3-4 F1 F4
7 8
document pg. 53-54 of
document
wings: F2 F3
pg. 10 beaks:
pg. 60 of pg. 11
tails & document pg. 61 of document
feet:
pg. 9 H2 I2 X2 pizza:
G2 P2 pg. 12
O2 X1
9 10 11 12
pg. 59 of
document
H1 I1 pg. 62 of
document
G1
M O1 J2 K2
P1 X3
N2 N1 J1 K1
13 14 15 16 17
applique templates:
pg. 13-17
pg. 63-67 of document
sew desu ne?

assembling the pattern

To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 51-67. If you’re unfamiliar with printing and
assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.
1 2 3
print the pattern measure the test square assemble the pages
At the print dialog box, check the Print the first page of the pattern. Print the remaining pages needed
box that says print at “Actual Size” or Measure the test square to be sure for the pattern. Gather your total
100%. Any other selection (such as it matches the dimensions printed pages and check the upper corner to
“Fit to page”) will distort the pattern in the pattern. If it’s smaller than the be sure to you’ve collected them all.
so it’s slightly larger or smaller and printed size, increase your printer
we don’t want that. settings. If it’s larger, decrease the
printer settings.
4 5 6
trim the margins align the sheets cut the pattern
Your printer will likely have a margin To line up the pattern pages, match You can trace the patterns onto a
that ensures your image doesn’t up the corresponding diamond different paper, or you can also just
print to the very edge. Trim off this shapes. Each diamond will have cut them straight from the printer
blank margin edge. This will give you a letter, so it’s simply a matter of paper -- be sure that each piece is
pages that overlap during assembly. matching A1 to A2, B3 to B4 and so fully taped together along the joins
If you trim across the gray outline on. The faint gray lines indicate the so they don’t fall apart when you cut
boxes, this will give you pages that border of every page, you can line them.
don’t overlap but rather butt against those up as well. When the diamond
each other. goes together, tape it in place.
sew desu ne?

design options
The varying pattern templates can be used to create lots of different varities of birds. But if you'd like
to copy the ones seen in the samples, here are the pattern pieces used:
budgie cockatiel lovebird

• Basic head front/back (A, B1) • Basic head front (A) • Basic head front/back (A, B1)
• Basic body & belly (D1-2) • Crested head back (B2) • Contrast chest body (E1-3)
• Small tail feathers (G1) • Basic body & belly (D1-2) • Small tail feathers (G1)
• Small curved beak (H1-2) • Small tail feathers (G1) • Small curved beak (H1-2)
• Nostrils (L) • Small curved beak (H1-2) • 2-toed feet (N1-2)
• 2-toed feet (N1-2) • Nostrils (L)
• 2-toed feet (N1-2)
cockatoo canary pigeon

• Basic head front/back (A, B1) • Basic head front/back (A, B1) • Basic head front/back (A, B1)
• Upward crest (C1) • Basic body & belly (D1-2) • Neckband body (F1-4)
• Basic body & belly (D1-2) • Small tail feathers (G1) • Broad tail feathers (G2)
• Broad tail feathers (G2) • Small straight beak (J1-2) • Small straight beak (J1-2)
• Large curved beak (I1-2) • 3-toed feet (O1-2) • Nostrils (L)
• 2-toed feet (N1-2) • 3-toed feet (O1-2)
raven cardinal
• Basic head front/back • Basic head front (A)
(A, B1) • Crested head back (B2)
• Basic body & belly (D1-2) • Basic body & belly (D1-2)
• Broad tail feathers (G2) • Small tail feathers (G1)
• Large straight beak • Small straight beak (J1-2)
(I1-2) • 3-toed feet (O1-2)
• 3-toed feet (O1-2)
sew desu ne?

pet bird plush 12 cutting the fabric
cutting the fabric

With your supplies gathered and your pattern printed, you can finally move onto cutting your fabric.
If you’re unfamiliar with the procedure, see the steps here. Also check out the cutting layout for an
at-a-glance view of how your pieces should look.
1 2 3 4
place the pattern pin the pattern cut the pattern clean up the fur
Place pattern on the fabric, Pin the pattern in place, Using the paper as a If using a fluffy or furry
and make sure the stretch use pattern weights, or template, cut out the fabric, shake away the
line matches the stretch trace the outline of the fabric. Cut the required excess fluff before starting
of the fabric. The nap line pattern with a washable amount according to the to sew.
should go in the direction marker. pattern.
of the fur.
Basic Body
cutting layout example: cockatiel (D)
head fabric stretch s t r et c h
main body fabric
1/4 yd.; 9” long
½ yd.; 18” long

n a p / p i le
A A B2 B2
D1
P2
D2
n a p/ p i l e
L
P2
19” wide D1 L
feet & beak fabric stretch

P2 P2
nap/pile
1/8 yd.
N1 N1 M H2 G1 G1
N2 N2
M H1 H1
21” wide
20” wide
sew desu ne?

pet bird plush 13 cutting the fabric
Contrast
cutting layout example: lovebird Chest Body
(E)
head fabric chest tail feet & beak fabric s t r et c h
1/8 yd.
1/4 yd.; 9” long
1/4 yd.; 9” long
1/8 yd.
N1 N1 N2 N2
M H2
n a p/ pile
n a p/ pile
E3 G1 H1 H1
A A M
6” wide 20” wide

G1
main body fabric s t r et c h

9” wide 4” wide
1/3 yd.; 12” long

wing fabric stretch
E2 B1 B1
na p / pile
P1 P1 P1 P1 1/4 yd.; 9” long
n a p / p i le
E1 E1
21” wide
20” wide
Neckband
cutting layout example: pigeon Body
(F)
main body fabric stretc h feet fabric
n a p / p i le
1/8 yd.
O1 M
1/4 yd.; 9” long
L O2
O1 O2
F1 P1 L P1 M
n a p / p i le
F2 16” wide
F1 P1 P1 top neck band

na p / pi le
pizza
1/8 yd.
F4
na p / p i l e
26” wide X1 1/8 yd.

7” wide
5” wide
head fabric stretch
middle neck band
1/4 yd.; 9” long
nap/pile
F3
1/8 yd.
crust
nap/pile
G2
A A B1 B1
1/4 yd.; 9” long
X2
n a p / pi l e
G2 9” wide
X3
20” wide beak

n a p/ p i l e
1/8 yd.
J2 J1 J1
6” wide
8” wide
sew desu ne?

pet bird plush 14 sewing the plush
before you begin:

• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• Transfer any symbols and notches from the paper pattern if you haven’t already.
• Note that a ¼” seam allowance is used in the project unless otherwise mentioned. This is already
included in the pattern pieces.
sewing the plush

part 1: applique
1. fuse the applique

a. Grab your fusible web and trace markings onto outer eye: accent
your applique templates and paper side of fusible web eye: black
trace the pieces for the eye eye shines: white
style you want. Either the
round, almond, staring,
smiling, or or side eyes.
Here we’re building the
round eyes with budgie
markings. That includes:
• outer eye (2) • eye (2)
• eye shines (4)
• eye feathers (4)
• eye spots (4)
• cheek spots (2)
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the fusible web onto the applique fabrics, following the color
guides on the paper templates. For the round eyes with budgie markings there’s:
• outer eye on accent color (light blue) • eyes, feathers, and spots on black
• eye shines on white • cheek spots on blue
sew desu ne?

2. attach the face applique

hold applique piece fuse outer
while sliding paper away add eyes next
eyes first
a b c
a. Cut out your applique pieces and grab your head front piece
(A). Grab your first applique layer, here it’s the outer eye. Set your add smallest pieces last
paper pattern on top of the head front piece. Align the applique
piece on top where the placement markings are. Next, carefully
pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in
place.
b. Fuse the applique fabrics with your iron. Use a press cloth, such
as a scrap piece of cotton. This will help protect any polyester or
fuzzy fabrics from melting or scorching.
c. Next, start building up the eye with the smaller pieces. Here for
the round eye it’s the eye. Arrange and fuse it the same way d
using the paper pattern (and the photo) as a guide.
d. Lastly add the eye shines and markings to complete both eyes.
cardinal mask: staring eyes: side eyes:
e f g
e. For the cardinal mask, f. For the staring eyes, these g. For the side eyes, these are
these are the pieces you’ll be are the pieces you’ll be the pieces you’ll be tracing
tracing and fusing: tracing and fusing: and fusing:
• mask (2, black) • iris (2, accent color) • eye white (2, white)
Add this as the first layer, • eye (2, black) • pupil (2, black)
then fuse your desired eye Apply using the paper Apply using the paper
on top of it. pattern and photo as a guide. pattern and photo as a guide.
sew desu ne?

3. attach the other applique
nostrils for cere add

wing
accents if
needed
a b b
a. If your bird has nostrils (L) (a.k.a. cere), you’ll also want to applique the nostrils. Fuse them to your
nostril piece using the same steps for the face.
b. If your bird has wing markings, you'll want to applique those now as well. Grab your open or
closed wings (P1 or P2). Applique whichever markings you like following the same tracing and
fusing steps for the face.
This should complete all the applique. Refer to the next step for some other applique stitching
options.
4. other applique options

4
applique whip
2
straight stitch: 3
great for felt stitch 1
a. Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of
the applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
b. You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whip stitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some
matching thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the
edge of the applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique
shape. This completes one stitch.
c. For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in
from the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape.
Continue this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
sew desu ne?

part 2: the head
5. sew the head darts

a. Grab your head front
pieces (A). These pieces have blend
fold stitching
two darts on each piece. along
They're the small wedges into fold
point of
found in the fabric, and dart
they're also labeled on the
paper pattern.
Sew the darts starting by
folding the fabric along the
point of the dart so the right
sides are facing.
a b
b. Sew from the opening of
the dart into the fold. Try to
blend your stitching into the repeat for both repeat for both
fold for a smooth transition head front pieces head back pieces
and a rounder finish.
c. Repeat with both darts on
both head front pieces for 4
total.
d. Repeat once more with the
head back pieces (B1 or B2)
for 4 darts total.
c d
darts Ą Note: if you have a bird with a separate crest

(C1 or C2), continue ahead with step 6.
A wedge-shaped gap found in a pattern. If you're not using piece C1 or C2, skip ahead
When sewn in fabric, it creates a tuck to step 10 (page 20).
in the fabric and develops a 3D shape.
The diagonal sides of the wedge are the
legs; these are matched up and sewn to
the point of the dart.
sew desu ne?

6. sew the head front to the back

align head sew along
front with back edge with darts
two sides of
the head
a. Grab one of your head front pieces (A) and line it up with a head back piece (B1) so right sides are
facing and the edges with the darts match up.
b. Sew the head front to the back along the edges with the darts. Repeat for the remaining front and
back pieces.
c. Open up the pieces when complete for both halves of the head.
7. sew the crest

upward crest (C1): backward crest (C2):
leave open
for turning
leave open
for turning
a b b
a. Grab your crest pieces (C1 or C2). Align them with right sides
facing and the raw edges matching up. trim seam
allowance at
b. Sew the crest pieces together along the pointed edge. Leave the corners
slightly curved edge along the bottom open for turning the piece
later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the inner and outer corners
of the crest piece. This will help reduce bulk and increase
flexibility when the piece is turned later.
sew desu ne?

8. flip the crest

a. Turn the crest right side
out through the opening in align
the bottom. crest along
top of head
b. Grab one of your head
pieces from before. If you
haven't already, note the
crest placement lines found
on the paper pattern for the
turn right
head front and back. side out
Align the crest within these
placement lines. Either along
the top or more toward the
back depending on your
preference or crest style.
9. sew the head sides

upward crest (C1): backward crest (C2):
align sides
flip of head
inward flip
and inward and
baste baste
a a b
a. Flip the crest inward so the raw edges align with the edge of
the head. Sew the crest in place with a basting stitich (a long, leave
open for
temporary stitch) to hold it securely for future steps. turning
b. Take your remaining head pieces and align it over the first so
right sides are facing and the raw edges match up. The middle
seam should also line up.
c. If you haven't already, note the opening for turning marking
found on the paper pattern for the head back (B1). Sew the
head pieces together around the outer edge, but stop when you
reach the opening for turning marking. This will leave the back
of the head open for later. Also leave the bottom edge open for c
the neck.
Ą Set the head aside for a moment while we work on the
body, starting at step 13.
sew desu ne?

10. sew the head front

align open up when
front sew complete
pieces along
center
front
a. Grab both of your head front pieces (A). Align them with right sides facing and the raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the pieces together along the center front edge. This is the edge without any darts along it.
c. Open up the pieces when complete.
11. sew the head back

a. Grab your two head back basic back (B1):
pieces (B1). Align them with
right sides facing and the leave
raw edges matching up. open for
turning
b. If you haven't already, note
the opening for turning
markings found on the
paper pattern for the head
back (B1). Sew from the
upper corner down to the
beginning of the opening a b
and stop.
c. If you're using a crested crested head back (B2):
head back (B2), it will look
something like photo C.
d. After the seam is sewn, you'll
want to trim the excess seam leave
open for
allowance around the curves turning
and corners to reduce bulk trim
and increase flexibility for seam
allowance
later. at corners
c d
sew desu ne?

12. sew the head front to the back

align front sew around top
with back edge of head
turn right
side out
a. Take your head back pieces (B1 or B2) and your head front from before (A). Align them with right
sides facing and the outer raw edges matching up. The center seams should also match up.
b. Sew around the top edge of the head, but leave the bottom edge free for the neck later.
c. Turn the head right side out, and the neck should be able to spread apart as shown in the third
photo. Set the head aside for a bit while we work on the body.
part 3: the body
13. sew the corner body darts

a. Grab your body pieces (D1, fold along blend
E1, or F1). These pieces also point of dart stitching
have two darts, similar to the into fold
head front and back. First
sew the smaller corner dart,
starting by folding the fabric
along the point of the dart.
b. Blend your stitching into
the fold of the fabric for a
smooth transition and a
rounder finish to the plush.
sew desu ne?

14. sew the side body darts

neck band body (F1):
blend
stitching
into fold repeat
for both
body
pieces
a. Repeat the same dart sewing with the larger side dart. Start at the top opening and work your way
down into the fold of the fabric.
b. Repeat with both body pieces so they have two darts each.
c. If you have a neck band body (F1), note that your body will be a bit shorter than the other bodies.
The neck bands added later will make up for the height.
15. sew the body pieces together at the tail

sew body pieces
along only joined at
end of tail end
tail
a. Grab your two body pieces and align them with right sides facing and the raw edges matching up.
b. Sew them together along the tip of the tail only. It's also marked with a numbered marking for extra
help: point 3. Sew from point 3 down along the center edge of the back for about 1-2". This is also
marked on the paper pattern for extra help.
c. When complete, the body pieces should only be attached at the tail end. This will allow the tail tip
to be attached next.
sew desu ne?

16. attach the tail tip

align tail with
tail tip body at point 3
will be
3
joined to
body 3
2 2
3 3
2 2 clip
inner curve
of tail tip
a. Grab one of your tail tip pieces (G1 or G2). This piece will be joined to the tail end of your body so
far. It has numbered points for help with alignment, points 2 and 3.
b. These areas have a tight curve, so to make matching them easier, you'll want to make small clips into
the inner curve of the tail tip. This will allow the fabric to bend and stretch better in future steps.
c. Align your tail tip with your body piece so right sides are facing and point 3 matches up in the
middle.
17. align & sew the tail tip

align sew from
sew point point 3 to 2
tail tip 2 at
to body corner
3
2 2
2
a. Sew the tail tip to the body along point 3 only. This will help ensure the piece is perfectly
centered.
b. When that's complete, take one side of your tail tip and align it with the body at point 2. Stretch the
tail tip fabric to fit around the curve and pin the layers together.
c. Sew the tail tip to the body from point 3 to point 2.
sew desu ne?

18. finish the tail tip

sew around
line up entire tail tip
point 2 2
3 3
2 2 2
a. Repeat on the other side of the tail tip, lining up points 3 and 2.
b. When the entire tail tip is attached, it should look something like the second photo.
c. Open up the tail piece when complete, and it should lie flat and look something like the third photo.
Set aside the body aside for a moment while we prepare the belly.
19. sew the contrast chest

belly line up point sew along
4 4 will 4 on each side curved edge
4 4 join to
chest
4 4
4 4
the full
belly
a b c d
a. If your bird has a contrast chest, it should be using the belly pieces labeled E2 and E3. Grab your
belly and chest pieces now. They'll be joined together at the middle curves shown. It's also labeled
with numbered points and a center notch for extra help: point 4.
b. Bend and stretch the belly to match up with the chest. Match up the notch at the center and point 4
on each side. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the belly to the chest along this edge, going from point 4 to point 4.
d. Open up the pieces when complete for the full belly.
sew desu ne?

20. sew the belly darts

blend sew
fold stitching center dart
along into fold and two
point of side darts
dart
a. Grab your belly piece (D2, E2, or F2). This piece has several darts in it just like the previous body and
head. Start by sewing the center top dart. Fold the fabric along the point of the dart to match up the
slanted edges.
b. Sew from the opening of the dart into the fold of the fabric. Blend your stitching into the fold for a
smooth transition and a rounder finish.
c. Repeat with the small darts on each side of the belly for three darts total.
21. attach the belly tail tip

a. Grab your remaining tail line up tail tip
tip piece (G1 or G2). This at point 3 secure
piece will be attached to to belly
the tip of the belly similar 3 at point
to the body in the previous 3
steps. 3
Start just as before lining up
the center of the tail tip with
the center of the belly at
point 3.
b. Sew the tail tip to the belly
at point 3 to keep the piece
centered.
sew desu ne?

22. sew the belly tail tip
line up sew repeat

point 2 at from point on other
3 corner 3 3 to 2 side
2
2 2
a. Bend and stretch the tail tip to fit along the tip of the belly so points 3 and 2 match up. Pin the
fabrics together.
b. Sew the tail tip to the belly from point 3 to 2.
c. Repeat on the other side so the entire tail tip is attached to the belly.
23. align the two tail tips
belly line sew

will join up tail around
to body tips tail to
point 2
a. Grab your body piece from before. We're going to attach the belly all the way around the body. This
should match up points 1 and 2. For ease, we'll start with the tail tip and work our way around.
b. Begin by aligning the tail tip pieces (G1 or G2). Match up the feather tips and pin the fabrics
together.
c. Start at the center tip and sew around one side of the tail tip. Stop at the corner at point 2.
sew desu ne?

24. sew the belly side

a. Grab your belly (D2, E2, or
1
F2) and align it around the
curved side of the body (D1, 1
E1, or F1). 2
This should match up point 1
1 at the upper corner. Pin the 2
fabrics together.
b. Sew starting at the corner
of the tail (point 2) around line up belly sew from
to the upper corner of the from point 2 to 1 point 2 to 1
body (point 1). This should
complete one half of the
body.
25. sew the other belly side

a. For the other half of the 1
body, begin again at the sew
center of the tail tip and around tail
sew around the other side to point 2 1
down to point 2.
b. Align the other side of the 2
belly with the other half 2
of the body. Pin the fabrics
from point 2 around to point
1. line up belly
from point 2 to 1
c. Sew from point 2 to point a b
1 on the other side of the
body.
1
d. Ths should complete
the body and it will look
something like photo D. The
back edge is still partially
2
open.
Ą If you have a neck
band body (F), continue
to step 26. If not, skip sew from belly attached
point 2 to 1 on both sides
ahead to step 29.
c d
sew desu ne?

26. sew the middle neck band

5 5
5
line up
point 5
5 5
5 5 neck 5
band will
join to
body
a. Grab your body so far (F) and open up the top edge. Also grab your middle neck band piece (F3).
This neck band will join to the top edge of the body so far. Point 5 will match up at each corner, and
at the center is a single notch.
b. Line up the middle neck band with the body so right sides are facing. Point 5 should align at each
corner and the center notch aligns with the center belly dart. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the neck band to the body from point 5 to point 5 on each side and the center notch in the
middle.
27. align the top neck band

neck bands will join
line up line up
point 6 center 6
notches
6 6 6
6
6
6 6 6
a. Next we're going to repeat this process but with the top neck band (F4). This joins up with point 6
at each corner and a set of double-notches in the middle.
b. Line up the top neck band with the middle neck band so right sides are facing. Line up point 6 at
each corner.
c. Line up the center of the neck bands with the double-notches. Pin the neck bands together.
sew desu ne?

28. sew the top neck band

a. Sew the neck bands
together between point 6 the joined
neck bands
on each side and the double
notches in the center.
b. Open up the pieces when
6
complete, and your body 6
should look something like

the second photo.
29. align the head and body at the neck

a. Grab your body so far as well head line up point 7
as your head. The bottom will join at center
edge of the head will join to to body
the top edge of the body at 8
7 8
the neck. Point 7 will match 7 7
at the center, and point 8 will
match at the corners. 8 8
b. Align the head to the body at

the center at point 7. Then
align point 8 at each corner
with right sides facing. a b
c. Sew the head to the body
along the center, from point
8 in one corner, through sew
from view
point 7, then back to point 8 7
point 8, from belly
at the other corner. 7, & 8 side:
d. Photo D shows what it might
8
look like when viewed from 8
the belly side.
c d
sew desu ne?

30. sew the back of the body

turn line leave
body on up back open for
its side edges turning
a. Grab your body so far and turn it on its side.

b. Note the back edge of the bird. It was left open from previous steps, but we're finally going to close it.
Line up the back edges with right sides facing and pin them together.
c. Sew the back edge of the bird. Start at the end of the opening for turning for the head back (B1 &
B2), and then finish where your stitching left off for the tail end of the body. This should leave an
opening in the back of the head for turning, but close up the rest of the back.
31. trim & turn the body

trim turn
seam body right
allowance side out define
at tail tip tail tips
a. Trim the excess seam allowance at the tip of the tail. This will help reduce bulk and increase
flexibility when the piece is turned later.
b. Turn the body right side out through the opening in the back of the head.
c. Define the points at the tip of the tail to help create the little feather tips.
sew desu ne?

32. top stitch the tail
draw top sew

stitching along top view
line stitching from
line belly
side:
a. Smooth out the back end of the tail. We're going to top stitch this area so it separates it from the rest
of the body. This will allow the tail to stay flat while the rest of the body is stuffed.
Transfer the top stitching lines found on the body (D1, E1, or F1) paper pattern.
b. Sew along the top stitching lines using matching thread.
c. The third photo shows what this might look like from the belly side.
part 4: stuffing & beak
33. stuff the tail

a. Begin stuffing your plush.
Start with the tail. Get stuff
tail end fill until
enough stuffing in the tail there are
end of your bird where the no wrinkles
top stitching was from the
previous step.
b. Continue filling up the tail
end so there are no wrinkles
near the seam.
sew desu ne?

34. stuff the body & head

stuff body stuff stuff rest
around darts head of head
& seams around
darts
a. Continue filling up the body with stuffing. Be sure to get plenty near the darts so there are no
wrinkles and the bird looks very round and smooth.
b. Next, move onto the head. Fill up the face firmly so there are no wrinkles near the darts or center
seams.
c. Lastly, fill up the rest of the head so the whole head and body is firm.
35. ladder stitch the head closed

bring needle out near ladder
one edge of opening stitch
closed 2 1
4 3 seam allowance
(folded inside)
a. Tuck in the seam allowances in the back of the head, then prepare to ladder stitch it closed. Begin by
threading a hand sewing needle and knotting the end.
Bring the needle out near one edge of the opening in the head and this should leave the knot inside
the plush.
b. Continue from here ladder stitching the head closed. Take a stitch into the fold of the opening on
one side, then go across and take a stitch on the other side. Continue down the opening until you
reach the end.
sew desu ne?

36. clip the threads

a. When the seam is complete, pull at thread
knot the thread at the end. bring
needle while clipping
Then insert the needle near out 1-2”
the knot then out of the away
plush about 1-2” away.
b. Pull the thread through and
clip the thread while pulling
it. This should allow the
excess thread to sink back
inside the plush.
37. sew the beak bottom

a. Grab all of your beak pieces
(H, I, J, or K). The beak sides
beaks will line up
(H1/I1/J1/K1) will be joined to points 9
join to bottom 9
the beak bottom (H2/I2/ and 10
J2/K2). There are numbered 10
points for help with
alignment: points 9 and 10.
10
b. Grab one of your beak
pieces and align it with the
beak bottom, matching up
points 9 and 10. a b
c. Sew the beak to the bottom
between points 9 and 10.
Try to stop precisely at point sew repeat for
10 and it will make the next 9 from both sides
step easier. point
9 to
d. Repeat on the other side for 9 9
10
both beak pieces.
10
10
c d
sew desu ne?

38. sew the beak top

a. Grab your two beak pieces
(H1/I1/J1/K1). Align them line up sew from
along the top edge with right beak pieces corner to
point 10
sides facing. This is the edge
that starts at the top corner
and ends at point 10 at the
tip of the beak.
b. Sew the beak pieces
together along the top edge, 10
ending at point 10.
c. Trim the excess seam a b
allowance around the tip of
the beak to reduce bulk.
trim seam turn
d. Turn the beak right side allowance at right side
out. Define the tip with a corner out
chopstick or similar turning
tool.
c d
39. stuff the beak

stuff stitch around
beak opening gathering
semi-firmly
stitch:
A long version of the running
stitch, which is a stitch done
by weaving the needle in and
out of a length of fabric going
along a line. The long stitches
(about ¼”-½” long) gather
the fabric when pulled later.
a. Stuff the beak semi-firmly with stuffing. Just enough so it looks full and takes shape. Be sure to use
small amounts in the tip so it doesn't deflate later.
b. Thread a hand sewing needle and knot the end. Sew a gathering stitch around the open edge of the
beak, about ¼” away from the raw edge.
sew desu ne?

40. attach the beak

pull at thread ladder stitch
to cinch closed center beak around base
over face
a. Pull at the thread you stitched around the beak to cinch the opening closed. Sew a few knots into
the center of the beak to hold it closed.
b. Take your beak and align it over the face of your bird. Make sure the cinched end is facing down.
Center it between the eyes.
c. Ladder stitch the beak to the face around the base of the beak.
41. sew the nostrils

sew entirely cut through turn right
around nostrils blank layer side out
a. If your bird has a set of nostrils (L) -- also known as a cere -- grab those pieces now. Align the two
pieces with right sides facing and the raw edges matching up.
Sew the nostril pieces together all around the shape.
b. To open the piece, cut a small slit into the back blank piece only. Don't cut the fabric that has the
nostrils appliqued. There's also a cutting guide on the paper pattern for extra help.
c. Turn the nostrils right side out through the opening you've cut.
sew desu ne?

42. attach the nostrils

align on ladder
stuff top of beak
lightly stitch
around
base
a. Stuff the nostrils lightly so they just take shape.

b. Align the nostrils over the top of your bird's beak so the cut side is facing down.
c. Ladder stitch the nostrils to the top of the beak around the edge of the shape.
part 5: the feet
43. prep the feet

a. Grab your feet and leg
pieces (M and N1/2 or O1/2)
The tight inner curve of
the foot top piece (N1
or O1) will be joined to the
longer straight edge of the
leg. These are the edges foot
will be
between the circle markings joined make clips
on the paper pattern. to leg into seam
b. This may not look like it allowance
will fit, but if you're able to
stretch the foot fabric it
will work. Start by making
small clips into the seam
allowance of the foot top
curve between the circle
markings. Make clips about
¼" apart.
sew desu ne?

44. attach the top feet to the leg

line up circle sew along edge
markings with markings
pull at foot
to spread
apart
a. If done properly, the foot top piece (N1 or O1) should now be able to spread wide from all the small
clips you made in the fabric.
b. Align the foot top over the leg piece (M) so right sides are facing. Align the clipped edge with the
edge of the leg between the circle markings. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the foot top to the leg between the circle markings. Repeat with your remaining leg and foot
top pieces for two total.
45. sew the leg side

leg line sew
stands up along short
up short end and
ends of through
leg foot
a. Open up your foot top (N1 or O1) and leg pieces (M) and they should look something like the first
photo. The leg stands up around the inner curve of the foot.
b. Next, take your foot and fold it on itself so the short edges of the leg match up with right sides
facing. This should match up the circle markings from the previous seam.
c. Sew from the top of the leg down through the previous seam and to the bottom corner of the foot to
complete the seam.
sew desu ne?

46. align the top and bottom feet

align foot top trace seam
over bottom line from
paper pattern
opening
for leg
a b c d
a. When complete, your leg seam should look something like photo A.
b. When opened up, your foot should be nearly flat with an opening in the middle for the leg.
c. Grab one of your foot bottom pieces (N2 or O2). Align the foot top over the foot bottom so right
sides are facing.
d. To get the detailed toe seam, you may want to trace the seam allowance from the paper pattern. Trim
away the seam allowance and use the paper pattern as a tracing template onto the foot fabrics.
47. sew the top and bottom feet

2-toed feet: 3-toed feet: 2-toed feet: 3-toed feet:
view from view from

bottom: bottom:
sew entirely sew entirely

around feet around feet
a a b b
a. Sew the foot top (N1 or O1) to the foot bottom (N2 or O2) round the line you traced. Repeat for
both feet for two total.
b. Both B photos show how the feet should look when viewed from the bottom.
sew desu ne?

48. clip & turn the feet

2-toed feet: 3-toed feet:
trim
seam
allowance
between
toes
turn right side turn right side
out through leg out through leg
a. Trim the excess seam allowance around the toes. This will help reduce bulk and increase flexibility
when the piece is turned.
b. Turn the toes right side out through the opening in the leg. Define the toes with a chopstick or
similar turning tool.
for a sitting bird:

For this sitting version, the feet are attached to the front of the bird. This creates a sitting bird
and no wire is used to help it stand.
For a standing bird, skip ahead to step 51.
49. stuff and close the feet
stitch around pull at
stuff leg opening thread to
firmly cinch closed
a. Stuff the toes firmly with stuffing. Be sure to get plenty in each toe so they don't deflate later.
b. Thread a hand sewing needle and knot the end. Sew a gathering stitch around the open edge of the
foot, about ¼” away from the raw edge.
c. Pull at the thread to cinch the opening closed. Sew a few knots into the center of the leg to hold it
closed.
sew desu ne?

50. attach the feet

a. Take your cinched feet
and align them over the align ladder
belly of your bird. Make feet onto stitch
belly around
sure the cinched end is
legs
facing the belly and the toes
are pointing up. The paper
pattern has a placement
guide for where to stitch
them, but generally in front
of the side darts of the belly
is a good spot.
b. Ladder stitch the feet to the
belly so they face forward
and prop up the bird while
its sitting.
for a standing bird:

For a standing bird, wire is used through both legs as support. If you've already attached your
sitting legs, skip ahead to step 59.
51. prepare the wire

a. If you're using jewelry wire for the feet or wings, take this time
to prep it now. Grab your wire, your jewelry pliers, your hot glue
gun, and the strip of medium weight scrap fabric. bend wire
ends by ½"
Begin by bending over the ends of the wire with the pliers to
eliminate the sharp ends. Bend the wire onto itself by about ½"
on both ends.
sew desu ne?

52. wrap the wire

wrap strip
glue wire to around wire
fabric at an angle
continue
glueing as
you go
a. Next, use the hot glue to wrap the fabric around the wire. Begin with a dollop of glue on the end of
the fabric. Then press the wire into the glue so the strip is at an angle as shown. Fold the ends of the
fabric over the end of the wire.
b. From there, cover sections of the fabric in glue, then carefully wrap it around the wire. Keep the
fabric strip at an angle so it wraps down the length of the wire.
c. Continue wrapping the wire until it's entirely covered. Then fold over the ends of the fabric and
secure them with more glue as necessary. You'll need a 15" piece of wire for the feet. If you're making
wired wings later, you'll need another 17" piece.
53. insert the wire

poke hole insert grab wire from other
into belly hemostats side & pull through
through
both holes
a. To insert the wire, we're going to make some small holes in the belly of the bird.
Begin by transferring the placement markings from the paper pattern for the holes. The holes for
the feet are a little below the side darts on the belly. Using the tip of your sharpest, smallest scissors,
poke a small hole into the leg markings on each side.
b. Use these holes to insert your wire through the body. If you have hemostats it makes the process
much easier. Insert the hemostats through both holes, in one hole and out the other. If the
hemostats don't fit, you can cut the hole larger, but only 1-2 millimeters. The fabric will quickly
spread out from even the smallest cut.
Ą If you cut a hole that's too big, you can cinch it closed again using a gathering stitch.
c. Use the hemostats to grab the wrapped wire from the other side of the body.
sew desu ne?

54. pull the wire through

a. Take your wrapped wire
from before and use the pull wire even
hemostats to pull the wire through body out wire
through both sides. and bend
down
b. Pull the wire through so it's
even on both sides, then
bend the wire downward like
little legs.
55. bend the wire

bend 90°
forward bend
about 1½" back
down about
1¼"
away
repeat for
both legs
a. We're going to bend the wire so they make the shape of the feet. Start by bending it forward 90
degrees about 1½" below the belly.
b. Next, bend the wire back on itself about 1¼" away from the first bend. This should make this section
of the wire completely horizontal. The goal is for the horizontal wire to be even on each side of the
vertical section of the wire. It should make an upside-down T shape. The horizonal section will later
become the toes.
c. Repeat this for both feet and they should look something like the third photo.
sew desu ne?

56. pull the feet over the wire
make
sure wire
pinch toes is all the
so they come pull way in
together feet over
wire
a. To get the feet onto these wires, you'll need to temporarily bend the toes together. Pinch them so
they're now vertical, but don't squish them. We'll want to bend them back after the feet come on.
b. Pull the foot fabric over the wire.
c. Pull the foot all the way until the wire toes reach the bottom of the foot fabric.
57. adjust the wire

2-toed feet: 3-toed feet:
push toes apart

inside fabric
a. At this point, you should be able to bend the toe wires back to into the previous T shape. Feel
between the toe tips and push them away from each other while they're inside the fabric. It may take
a little practice to get a feel for it.
b. If your bird has 2-toed feet, it stands best if the wire toes point outward in the front. The front toes
point outward, while the back toes point inward for support. They should look something like the
second photo through the foot fabric. The other toes will remain empty for now until they're stuffed.
c. If your bird has 3-toed feet, the wire can easily go through the center toe and the back toe. The
other toes will remain empty for now until they're stuffed.
sew desu ne?

58. stuff & attach the feet

legs will still be ladder
wobbly stitch legs
stuff to body
toes &
legs very
firmly
a. At this point, you may notice that the legs aren't sturdy because the wire rotates within the body. To
keep the bird sitting upright, you'll need to stuff and attach the legs firmly.
b. Begin by stuffing the feet. Get plenty in each toe and throughout the leg. This is what will help keep
the legs from moving.
c. Next, ladder stitch the opening of the leg around the holes you cut into the body in step 53. Sneak in
extra stuffing into the legs if you can, this will help provide firmer support.
part 6: the wings
for closed wings:

For the closed wings (P1), the flat pieces are stuffed lightly and attached to the sides of the bird.
No wire is needed.
For wired open wings (P2), skip ahead to step 62.
59. sew the wings

a. Grab your wing pieces (P1). sew entirely
Take two of them and align around wings
them with right sides facing
and the raw edges matching
up.
b. Sew the pieces together all
the way around the shape,
pivoting at the feather tips.
sew desu ne?

60. turn & stuff the wings

cut mirrored
through pair stuff
one layer lightly
only
a. To turn the wings (P1) right side out, you'll want to cut through one layer of the wing fabric near the
center base. This is also labeled on the paper pattern for more help. Make sure to cut the opposite
side on your other wing so you have a mirrored pair.
b. Turn the wings right side out through the opening you've cut.
c. Stuff the wings lightly with stuffing, just enough so they puff up and look less flat.
61. attach the wings

align onto stitch flip up
side of body along wing and stitch
seam underneath
a. Take your stuffed wing and align it over the side of your bird so far. You may have your own
preference for placement, but the ones in the samples here are aligned around the body seam right
beneath the neck. The paper pattern also has a placement guide for extra help.
b. Ladder stitch the wing to the body. Around the top of the body, sew the wing near the seam you
made in step 59..
c. When you reach the wing tips, flip up the tips and sew the underside of the wing to the body.
Attach the wings with a basting stitch at first. This is a long, temporary stitch in case you don't like
the placement. Check that you like it from all angles. Then go in with another round of smaller,
neater stitching when you are sure of the placement. Repeat for both wings.
sew desu ne?

for open wings:

The open wings use wire to make them posable. Prepare wrapping your wire using steps 51-52
for the standing feet.
If you already did closed wings, you're done! Skip ahead to step 67 (page 48) for an optional
slice of pizza!
62. sew the wings

leave open
for turning
trim seam
allowance
between feathers
a. Grab your open wing pieces (P2). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and the
raw edges matching up.
b. Sew the wings together all around the feathered edge. Leave the short straight edge open for
turning the piece right side out later.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance around the feathers. This will reduce bulk and increase flexibility for
when the piece is turned later.
63. create the wire channels

turn tuck top stitch to
right side seam create channels
out allowance
inside
a. Turn the wings right side out through the opening and define the feathers with a chopstick or
similar turning tool.
b. Tuck in the seam allowance at the opening of the wings so now the edge of the wing is folded.
c. Top stitch along the upper edge of the wing to create the wire channels. The paper pattern has a
stitching guide for extra help.
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64. insert the wire

poke hole insert grab wire
into side hemostats from other
through side & pull
both holes through
a. If you haven't already, prep your wing wire following steps 51-52. To insert the wire, we're going to
make some small holes in the side of the bird.
Begin by transferring the placement markings from the paper pattern for the holes. The holes for
the wings are a little in front of the side darts on the body.
Using the tip of your sharpest, smallest scissors, poke a small hole into the wing markings on each
side.
b. Use these holes to insert your wire through the body. If you have hemostats it makes the process
much easier. Insert the hemostats through both holes, in one hole and out the other. If the
hemostats don't fit, you can cut the hole larger, but only 1-2 millimeters. The fabric will quickly
spread out from even the smallest cut.
Ą If you cut a hole that's too big, you can cinch it closed again using a gathering stitch.
c. Grab your wrapped wire from the other side of the body.
65. pull the wire through

even slide wings
pull wire out wire onto each side
through body
a. Use your hemostats to pull the wire through both sides.

b. Pull the wire through so it's even on both sides.
c. Insert the wings onto the wire using the wire channels you stitched in step 63.
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66. attach the wings

align wing onto
bird's side
stitch
ladder on both
stitch sides
wing to
side
a. Align the wings so they're flush against the side of the bird's body.
b. Ladder stitch the folded edge of the wing to the body of your bird.
c. Go around to the other side so you've ladder stitched all the way around. Repeat for both wings.
part 7: the pizza!
67. applique the pepperoni

applique Ą This pizza is just a fun and silly accessory that would fit in
pepperoni well with any New York pigeon.
a. Start by grabbing your top piece (X1). Applique the pepperoni
following the instructions from steps 1-2 for the face of the bird.
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68. attach the crust

align crust sew along
over top curved edge
crust
will join
to top
a. Grab your crust piece (X2). The inner curve will join to the top curve of the top piece (X1).
b. Bend the crust to fit around the top so right sides are facing and the raw edges match up.
c. Sew the crust to the top along the curved edge.
69. attach the bottom

open up align top leave open
when complete with bottom for turning
a. Open up your crust (X2) and top pieces (X1) to complete.

b. Grab your bottom piece (X3). Take your top so far and layer it over the bottom so right sides are
facing and the raw edges match up.
c. Sew the top to the bottom, but leave an opening for turning near the top as indicated on the paper
pattern for the crust.
sew desu ne?

70. turn & stuff the pizza

trim seam stuff crust
allowance at corners lightly
top
stitch
beside
crust
a. Trim the excess seam allowance around the corners to reduce bulk.
b. Turn the pizza right side out through the opening you left in the top.
Stitch in the ditch along the crust seam you made in step 68. This will separate the crust from the
rest of the pizza.
c. Stuff the crust lightly with stuffing.
71. close & attach the pizza

a. Tuck in the seam allowances
of the crust, then ladder ladder attach
stitch it closed. stitch closed wherever
you like!
b. From here you can attach
the pizza wherever you like!
Attach it to your bird's beak,
or let them wear it on their
head like a hat!
sew desu ne?

pg. 1/17
TEST SQUARE
2”
measure this square to NOSTRILS
Cut 2 of accent
fabric
¼” seam
be sure you’ve printed at L allowance
the proper proportions
NAP
dar
t
Cut 2 of main fabric

¼” seam allowance
HEAD SIDE
dart STRETCH
A
UP
WA
RD
placement
CR
applique
ES
(C1 T
)
7
C2) opening for turning

CREST (
ARD
PLUSH PATTERN
ACKW
B
8
WWW.CHOLYKNIGHT.COM

pet birds
HEAD BACK
BASIC
B1
STRETCH
dart
t
dar
NAP
pg. 2/17
CRESTS
placement For birds like
cockatiels, cockatoos,
applique
cardinals etc.
NAP
STRETCH
allowance
C1 ¼” seam
CREST fabric
UPWARD Cut 2 of acce
nt
STRETCH
dar
t
pet birds
PLUSH PATTERN
WWW.CHOLYKNIGHT.COM
CREST
WARD
CRESTED
BACK-
C2
NAP
HEAD BACK
openin
B2
g fo
STRETCH
Cu of acce
allowance
¼” seam
t 2
fabric
r turnin
nt
g
NAP
dart
8
pg. 3/17
stitc
ope ing gui
h
n wi de
8
ng
dart
pet birds
NAP
PLUSH
PA
OLYKNIGT T E R
WWW.CH
HT.COM N
dart BASIC
BODY
closed wing
stitching Cut 2 of
D1 step 15:
m
guide ¼” seam ain fabric stop
allowanc here
e
3
STRETC
H
to
ps
tit
ch
2
ing
7 7
1 1
BASIC BODY
For birds with no
major color changes
on their belly or back.
Such as canaries,
doves, ravens, etc.
dart
A1 A2
A1 A2
pg. 4/17
STRETCH
sitting leg sitting leg

placement placement
dart dart
standing standing
leg leg
placement placement
pet birds
PLUSH PATTERN
WWW.CHOLYKNIGHT.COM
BASIC
BELLY
D2
NAP
2 2
3
4
4
4
E3
fabric
7
CHEST
CHEST
CONTRAST
Cut 1 of accent
STRETC ¼” seam allowance

H
dart
sitting leg
placement
sitting leg
7
placement
dart
NAP
STRETCH
standing
4
leg
dart
placement
standing
leg
placement
PLUSH
pet birds
WWW.CH PA
OLYKNIGT T E R
HT.COM N
CONTRAS
T CHEST
BELLY
Cut 1 of
E2
m
parrots, etc.
¼” seam ain fabric

color. Such as
allowanc
e
CONTRAST
contrasting chest
lovebirds, dracula
CHEST BODY
For birds that have a
pg. 5/17
B1 B2
2
NAP
2
1
stitching guid
open wing e
B1 B2
NAP 8
dart
dart
PL
U
pet b
WW S H i r d
close W.C P s
stitcdh wing CO HOLYK A T
N
guideing TRAS NIGHTT.C E R N
BODT CHESTOM
Cut
Y
E
¼” 2 of m 1
sea
m a ain fab
l l o wan ric
step 1
ce stop 5:
STR here
E TCH
3
to
ps
itc t
ing h
2
pg. 6/17 17
3
2
1
top
stit
1 chi
ng
dart
here
stop
5
step 15:
STRETCH
ERN
STRETCH
bands. Such as pigeons.

F1
BODY
NECK BAND BODY

For birds with contrasting neck
NECK BAND
g
pet birds
sitting le
la c e m e n t
p
WWW.CHOLYKNIGHT
g
sitting le
t
P L U S H P A T T.COM
placemen
dart
dart
dart
standing ing de
leg e n wg gui
t op hin
standing placemen c
leg stit NAP
t
placemen
ing
guide
stitching
pet bP iArTdsT E R N
closed w
P L UWWS .CHHOLYKNIGHT.COM
W
rt
NECK BAND
da
BELLY
1
F2
fabric
pg. 7/17
Cut 1 of main ance

ll o w
¼” seam a
C1 C2
Cut 1
17
owance
¼” seam all
C1 C2
NAP
F4
Cu
NECK BAND TOP BA
ND
2 t1 7
of
a
5 2 en
cc
tf
ab
ric
6
¼” sea
3
m allo
NAP
wance
8
6 8
6
6
5
STR
NAP
ETC
H
NECK BAND
MIDDLE BAND Cut 1 of accent fabric
F3
pg. 8/17
pg. 9/17
TAILS & FEET

allowance
¼” seam
fabric
nt
Cut 2 of acce
G2
RS
TAIL FEATHE
BROAD
OM
NAP
¼ t2o O O D
B E
TT
STRETCH
OT -TO
nc ric
wa b
e
lo f a
3
FO 3
ea ac 2
al n t
m ce
”s f
P
Cu
NA
2
2 2
2
OT ED
O1 TOP
FO 3-TO
3
NAP
CH
STRET
Cut 2 of accent fabric
SMALL
NAP
ATHERS
TAIL FE 1
LEG
M
G cent
f ac
Cut 2 o ric abr
ic
fa b nt f nce
m c e
¼” sea e f ac allowa
w a n c 2o
all o Cut ” seam
NAP ¼
FO N1
2-T T TO
O
O ED
FOOT BOTTOM
Cu
¼” t 2 o
2-TOED
se f ac
N2
am ce
all nt f
P ow ab
NAP NA an ric
ce
pg. 10/17
WINGS
OPEN
WING
P2
STRETCH
wire casing
NAP
ine
P
l
NA
tt ing
cu
C H
R ET
ST
S ED
CL NG
O
WI P1
stitching ric
guide f ab ce
n
m ain owa
f al l
t 4 o am
Cu ” se
¼
pg. 11/17
10
9 LARGE STRAIGHT
9
BEAK BOTTOM
9 LARGE CURVED
9 K2
BEAK BOTTOM ¼” seam allowance
I2 10
NAP
NAP
NAP
NAP
¼” seam allowance ¼” seam allowance

Cut 2 of accent fabric Cut 2 of accent fabric
I1 K1
BEAK SIDE BEAK SIDE
10 LARGE CURVED LARGE STRAIGHT
10
9 9
9 SMALL CURVED 9 9 SMALL STRAIGHT
9 10
BEAK BOTTOM 10
BEAK BOTTOM
H2 J2
NAP
¼” seam allowance Cut 1 of accent fabric
NAP
NAP
NAP
H1
BEAK SIDE ¼” seam allowance
SMALL CURVED Cut 2 of accent fabric
10
9 J1
BEAK SIDE
BEAKS
10
SMALL STRAIGHT 9
pg. 12/17
openin
gf
Cut or turning
PIZZA
CRUST
X2 1 of
¼” s brow
eam n
allow fabric
NAP ance
PIZZA
NAP
TOP
X1
Cut 1 of yellow fabric
Cut 1 of brown fabric
X3
NAP
BOTTOM
PIZZA
PIZZA PEPPERONI
applique
trace/cut 1 each of red
pg. 13/17
ROUND EYE ALMOND EYE

OUTER EYE OUTER EYE
applique applique
trace/cut 1 each of trace/cut 1 each of
accent color accent color
EYE EYE
applique applique
trace/cut 1 each of black trace/cut 1 each of black
EYE SHINE
applique
EYE SHINE trace/cut 2 BLUSH
each of white applique
applique trace/cut 2 of
trace/cut 2 pink
each of white
NOSTRIL
applique
trace/cut 2 in
black
SIDE EYE
EYE WHITE
STARING EYE
applique
trace/cut 1 each of white IRIS
applique
trace/cut 2 in
accent color
PUPIL
applique PUPIL
trace/cut 1 each of black applique
trace/cut 2
in black
pg. 14/17
BUDGIE FACE SMILING EYE
MARKINGS
EYE FEATHERS OUTER EYE
applique
applique trace/cut 1 each of
trace/cut 2 each in accent color
black
CHEEK
SPOT
applique
trace/cut 1 each EYE
in blue LOWER applique
trace/cut 1 each of
EYE SPOTS black
applique
trace/cut 2 each
in black
CARDINAL COCKATIEL
MASK CHEEK
applique applique
trace/cut 1 each trace/cut 2 in
in black orange
MAJOR MITCHELL
COCKATOO CREST
applique
trace/cut 1 each in pink
pg. 15/17
CENTER &
SHOULDER MARKING
APPLIQUE
WINGKING
SHOULDapplique ccent
For birds that have contrasting
in a
CL ER MAR
colors on the shoulder or down the
1 each
color
middle of the wing. Such as
D
cockatiels, dracula parrots, etc.
t
S
c u
O
trac e /
OPEN
W
MARING CENT
a KIN ER
/cu pplique G
trace
t 1 ea
c
color h in acce
nt
pg. 16/17
WING TIP APPLIQUE

wing tips. Such as budgies,
cockatoos, pigeons, etc.
CLOSED WING TIP

MARKING
applique
trace/cut 1 each in accent
color
pg. 17/17
WING TIP APPLIQUE
wing tips. Such as budgies,
cockatoos, pigeons, etc.
trace/cut 1 each in accent

OPEN WING TIP
MARKING
applique
color

Pet Bird Plush Sewing Pattern

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cholyknight.

pet bird collection

pet bird collection

love bird short

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fabric & notions

fabrics: optional wiring supplies

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minky vs. felt

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good better best

Takes a bit longer

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

craft fabric embroidery

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

all-purpose heavy duty thread

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

Pins with a metal

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good better best

sharps universal fabric

chopstick point hemostats

Narrow and turner A medical tool

precise, but just Specifically that’s narrow and

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

tape measure ruler/yard quilting

pencils chalk fabric

Usually washes out or Great on dark marker

↓ consider buying all 3 as funds allow ↓

glue stick hot glue fabric glue

Seam ripper iron/ironing board

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choose one type choose one

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contrast chest body:

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assembling the pattern

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budgie cockatiel lovebird

cockatoo canary pigeon

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cutting the fabric

½ yd.; 18” long

feet & beak fabric stretch

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6” wide 20” wide

main body fabric s t r et c h

1/3 yd.; 12” long

F1 P1 P1 top neck band

26” wide X1 1/8 yd.

20” wide beak

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before you begin:

sewing the plush

1. fuse the applique

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2. attach the face applique

cardinal mask: staring eyes: side eyes:

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3. attach the other applique