Tle 10 Dressmaking Notes
Tle 10 Dressmaking Notes
Tle 10 Dressmaking Notes
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Trouser by double stitching line all along the seams
dore in a thick thread. Made For rough use,
TROUSER Jeans epitomizes youthfulness.
A pair of long pants or trousers is an outer
garment covering each leg separately and
4. Culottes
usually extending from waist down to
Culottes are the pants that were worn by
ankle.
the European men earlier, but nowadays
Trousers are originally designed for men,
these are immensely trending among the
but that was before as the time goes by
woman. This is Flared pant that ends just
women wear it confidently either For
below few inches From knee, which gives it
convenience or thru fashion.
a very quirky look and can be easily carried
Pant styles that are timeless. Dressy to
of with a T-shirt or a camisole according to
casual, pants Fit all Fashion styles. But the
the need. You can also wear it as a formal
wrong kind of pants can take you from a
wear, for fits highly popular among the
fashion diva to a fashion toddler. Most
office going women, its makes a
important things to consider when going
comfortable bottom wear with an
about your pants are:
astonishing style management.
1. It fit you properly
2. The color of the pants complements you.
5. Palazzo Pants
3. The style matches your age and body shape.
Palazzo Pants are the loose Flared or you
Vertical Measurements
A. VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS
Different Types of Pattern
1. Block/Basic
Outside Length
Pattern Also known as a Sloper, is a
This measurement is taken at the side from
template used as a foundation for creating
the waist down to the desired length of
Other pattern.
pants.
Rise
2. Construction Pattern
Taken from the waist down to the crotch.
This is intervening step between the block
and final pattern.
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3. Final Pattern 4. When laying each Pattern piece check the
Provided with necessary symbols that will following.
guide the designers on how to layout the A. Lengthwise grain Position
pattern on the cloth. Symbols for darts, B. The center fold
seam allowances, grain line, center fold, C. If it is to be duplicated
and notches other markers are used. D. if it is to be sectioned to be cut or not
through two layers.
4. Pattern Manipulation 5 fold the material on the right Side With
The process in which you change and Selvage folded together.
reshape pattern blocks to adjust the fit or 6. Lay out the Largest Pattern Piece first on the
incorporate a new design. wrong side of the Material.
7. Pin Pattern Piece in all the way around the
3 Ways of Making a Pattern edge.
1. Foundation Pattern 8. Insert pins along the Length wise.
Made from the individual measurement. 9. Lay the Small Pattern Pieces and Pin them in
Has no allowances Vacant Places.
10. Let the Seam allowance touch each other
2. Drape Pattern Whenever possible.
Is the placing of fabric Over the models or 11. Mark the stitching lines before Cutting.
mannequin. It lets the fabric flow freely
downward over the body's Silhovette. Lay Out Pattern Pieces Focus on 5 Areas:
1. Pressing
3. Commercial Pattern 2. Pattern Layout Guide
Are sold in department stores. They have a 3. Grainlines
package of directions and contain the 4. Cutting
actual pattern piece one will use to cut out 5. Marking
fabric. Front Part Pattern
Laying Out Pattern Pices Guide Line:
for Ladies Trousers 1. Draw a foundation line and mark it A.
2. A to B = 1 1⁄2” upward and project a
It is the Placement and arrangement of
horizontal
Pattern Pieces on the materials for Marking
line from A.
and Cutting.
Rise
Procedure in Laying out Pattern 3. A to C = crotch or rise length. Project a
horizontal perpendicular line.
1. Patterns must be checked well before Laying
Length of Pants
them on the cloth.
4. A to D = measure length of pants project a
2 Examine all the necessary pattern Symbols
perpendicular line and mark it D.
before laying them on the Cloth.
5. D to E = measure 2 inches downward then
3. Choose the longest cutting table to Prevent
project a horizontal perpendicular line and
the fabric from hanging Over the edge of
mark it L.
table.
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Hip Line 28. Connect T1 – U1 and T2 – U2 with a
6. C to F = measure 4 inches outward and mark straight line.
it F.
7. F to H = measure 1⁄4 hip circumference and
Back Part Pattern
mark it H. Waistliner
8. H to I = measure 1/16 part of hip 1. L to #1 = measure 1 r1/2 inches and
circumference and mark it I mark it #1
9. I to J = measure 1⁄2 inch and mark it J. 2. #1 to #2 = measure 1 1⁄2 inches
10. Project point H upward perpendicular to line upward and mark it #2
A. 3. Connect #1 and #2 with straight line.
11. H to M = measure 2 1⁄2 inches upward and 4. #2r to #3 = measure 1⁄4 waist
mark it M. circumference and mark it #3.
5. #r3 to #4 = measure 1 3⁄4 inch
Waistline
outward and mark it #4.
12. H to L = measure 3⁄4 inch mark it L
6. Connect point #2 and #4 with a
13. L to N = measure 1⁄4 inch and mark it N.
straight line.
14. L to O = measure 1/4 waist circumference
and mark it O. Waist Dart
1. Locate the middle #4 and #2 and
Knee Line
mark it #r5.
15. P = Midpoint of F and I and project
2. Project #5 perpendicular (90 degrees)
perpendicularly downward to line D.
dowrnward.
16. Locate the midpoint of C and D and mark it
3. #5 to #6 = measure 4 1⁄2 inches
Q.
downwarrd and mark it #6.
17. Q to R = measure 1 inch and mark it R.
4. #5 to #7 = 1⁄2 inch sideward and mark
18. S = intersection of lines P and R
it #7.
19. S to S1 = measure 1⁄4 knee circumference
5. #5 to #8 = 1⁄2 inch sideward and mark
and
it #8.
mark it S1.
6. Form the dart by connecting #7, #6
20. S to S2 = measure 1⁄4 knee circumference
and #8.
and
mark it S2. Hipline
7. J to #9 = 1⁄4 inch downward, then
Bottom Hem
draw a broken line outward and mark
21. P1 to T1 = measure 1⁄4 bottom and mark it T1.
it #9.
22. P1 to T2 = measure 1⁄4 bottom and mark it
8. #9 to #10 = 1 inch inward and mark
T2.
it #10.
23. Connect F to O with curve line.
9. I to #11 = 1 inch outward and mark it
Shaping the Front Part
#11.
24. Connect J and M with a round curve line.
10. #11 to #12 = 1 inch downward and
25. Connect J and S2 with a slight curve.
mark it #12.
26. Connect F to S1 with a slight curve.
27. Connect S1 – T1 and S2 – T2 with a Knee line
straight 11. S1 to #13 = 3⁄4 inch downward and
line. mark it #13.
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12. S2 to #13a = 3⁄4 inch – 1 inch outward
and mark it 13a.
Bottom
13. U1 to #14 = 3⁄4 inch – 1 inch outward
and mark it #14.
14. U2 to #14a = 3⁄4 inch – 1 inch outward
and mark it #14a.
15. F to #15 = 3⁄4 inch – 1 inch outward
and mark it #15a.
Shaping the Back Part
16. Connect points #4 and #15.
17. Connect #12 - #13 with curve line.
18. Connect #13 - #14 and #13a - #14a
with a straight line.
19. Connect 2 to M with a straight line.
20. Shape M to 12 with a French curve.
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QUARTER NOTES
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Pressing Tools for Sewing Essentials Garments
Iron Garments is not difficult if the cut parts are
Is a small appliance that when heated is well-prepared and pinned correctly.
used to press clothes to remove wrinkles Remember to prepare your garment parts
and unwanted creases. before you proceed to sewing. In order to not to
consume so much time finding your garment
Ironing Board part, place it near to you, place it under the
Is the foundation of your pressing tools. extension leaf of your sewing machine.
It needs to be firm and flat and able to Complete also your tools in sewing like scissor
withstand some pressure as you press or trimmer, thread, Seam ripper.
down.
Preparing Cut Parts
Spray Bottle
The additional moisture helps to smooth
out wrinkles with less effort.
Tailor's Ham
These are useful, soft, cushion-like pressing
it is ideal for pressing darts, curves, puffed
sleeves.
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2. Hook and Eye
Cautions:
Do not put pins in your mouth.
Keep unused pins in your handy cushion
rather than leaving them on the machine or
table.
Discard dirty, dull, bent pins – they will ruin
your material.
3. Cut fabric as shown in the picture below
Sew and Assemble Ladies Trousers
Assembling ladies trousers is the most
challenging part of the sewing process.
However, if you follow the preliminary
procedures correctly it will be smooth and will
end up with pleasing result. So, have patient
Units Together
When pinning, pins are placed perpendicular 1.Overedge the inseams, crotch and outseams.
to the edge of a fabric, pattern to the edges of
any kind of seam preparatory to basting or
stitching, to the folded edge of a dart, pleat,
tuck, or hem, and to seams fitted right side out.
2.Sew the dart.
In this way the two layers are kept smoothly. If
pins are placed parallel to these edges, the
edges will pucker unevenly.
Fasteners
8.Check and retrace the final crotch and seat
seam.
Characteristics of Well-tailored
Ladies Trousers
A well-constructed ladies trousers has the
following characteristics:
Finishing Touches
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6.Join the inseams and outseams.
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6.Join the inseams and outseams.
Trimmings
Trimming refers to reducing a seam allowance
to prevent bulk. Grading is used in an enclosed
seam to reduce the bulk created by the layered
seam allowances. Trim, grade and press in the
right places and your seams will look as smooth
as silk.
Grading
When you add a facing, make a collar, sew a
pocket, cuff, or waistband, anything that
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requires the seam allowances to get pressed 4) Zipper
together and hidden on the inside. You need to A zipper is a popular device for temporarily
trim those seam allowances to different levels joining two edges of fabric. It is used in
so they won’t create a ridge on the outside of clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage
the fabric. and other bags, sporting goods, camping
gear (e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and
Trimming Techniques other daily use items. This is one kind of
for Ladies Trousers trims used to open and close of some
special parts of a garment. It is sometime
DECORATIVE TRIMMINGS
also used for decorative purposes. In
Are trims that are used for decorations
making trouser and jackets, this is an
only. Meanwhile some trims are used for
essential component.
functional purposes. Moreover, we can say
that the materials used in sewing room
5) Lace
other than fabric is called trims.
Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with
open holes in the work, made by machine
1) Buttons
or by hand. The holes can be formed via
Buttons are the hardware items used in
removal of threads or cloth from a
conjunction with button for the fastening of
previously woven fabric, but more often
garments.
open spaces are created as part of the lace
These are the buttons which are used purely
fabric. Lace-making is an ancient craft.
for decorative purposes. For example,
True lace was not made until the late 15th
double breasted garments, sleeve vents
and early 16th centuries. A true lace is
etc.
created when a thread is looped, twisted or
braided to other threads independently
2) Snap fastener
from a backing fabric.
A snap fastener (also called snap, popper,
and press stud) is a pair of interlocking
SEAM ALLOWANCE TRIMMING
discs commonly used in place of buttons to
Trimming seam allowance simply means
fasten clothing. A circular lip under one-
cutting down the seam allowance width to
disc fits into a groove on the top of the
about half its size. When needed, it
other, holding them fast until a certain
should be done as a preliminary step to
amount of force is applied. Snaps can be
the allowance being ironed or clean
attached to fabric by hammering, plying,
finished.
or sewing.
The technique of trimming seam allowance is
often applied on semi-curved seams like those
3) Ribbon of the armhole and neckline. Depending on
A ribbon or riband is a thin band of flexible fabric, you may choose to trim the seam
material, typically cloth but also plastic or allowance on any seam of your choice if you
sometimes metal, used primarily for binding feel that extra allowance shows on the outside
and tying. Cloth ribbons, which most commonly of the garment or interacts with how the
includes silk, are often garment fits and feels.
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ENCLOSED CORNERS TRIMMING 3) Smooth and has defined finish
Enclosed fabric corners are those that are
clean finished with a self-piece or a facing Procedures in Pressing
such that all seam allowance is encased on
the inside of the overlapping layers.
Ladies Trousers
STEP 1
An important aspect of sewing enclosed Make sure you have a clean and dirt free
corners is achieving a smooth, flat, defined iron. Thus, a dirty iron will leave rust or
finish. The only way to achieve a defined sediment stains on light colored trousers.
corner as such is by trimming the seam Test the iron by first ironing a white rag or
allowance excess around the corner stitch old pillowcase to see if it leaves a stain.
prior to flipping the fabric layers to the
right side. Trimming eliminates excess bulk STEP 2
and tension thus allowing the finished Prepare the ironing board and a water
corner to lay completely flat and maintain spray to press the trousers with ease. Also
a smooth angle. prepare the ladies trousers, make sure that
the trousers are dirt-free and away from
stains.
SEMI TRIMMING
In some instances, you may only need to trim a
STEP 3
portion of the seam allowance. In this case, the
Set your iron to the right heat setting for
seam allowance is trimmed on one end and left
your fabric. Always check the care label on
untrimmed on the other.
your trousers to ensure you don't damage
the fabric. The general rule is low heat for
To apply this technique, trim the seam
synthetic fabrics, low to medium heat for
allowance partially by gradually blending
wools.
from one side of the seam to the other.
Semi-trimming is sometimes used with weaker,
STEP 4
loosely woven fabrics. You may need to trim
Ironing the pockets. You want to make sure
the seam allowance at a portion of the seam
the pocket lining isn't wrinkled. If you have
where it is absolutely imperative to the
close fitting trousers, the wrinkled pockets
garment’s fit and construction, then gradually
can show through the fabric.
blend into full seam allowance as you move
away from this vulnerable area- this will
STEP 5
maintain more durability and structure in a
The top of the trousers. Pull the lining out of
seam that could otherwise be weakened by too
the front pocket. Press the top of the
much trimming.
trousers, being careful around pleats and
Characteristics of Well Trimmed other folds. Put the front pocket back in