The Pondoland Square

Designed by Jen Tyler

Cape Town, South Africa

2017
 Square Description

A large super-textured, decorative floral block . From BoHo to

Classic Neutrals, this block looks gorgeous in any colourway!
This square was designed with a finished product in mind.
Meaning, once you have completed the square you will have a
ready-sized cushion cover frontispiece. But don’t stop there. Join
nine squares to make a striking lapghan and twelve
squares...well, you’ll have a blanket! This large piece is designed
to be easily upsized or downsized by changing your hook size
and/or yarn weight. Feel free to add extra rounds to fit your pro-
ject! Hope you have lots of fun with this square and I’m really
excited to see your results and delicious colourways!

I hope you enjoy making it as much as I have!

Jen

xxx
 YARN AND STITCH GUIDE
TERMS: US
YARN: Elle Yarn Family Knit DK 100% Acrylic
approx. 1 x 50g of each colour.
HOOK SIZE: 4mm
SKILL LEVEL : Intermediate ( “Challenging” – The Testers! )
STITCHES:
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
HDCFP = Half Double Crochet Front Post
CH = Chain
YO = Yarn Over
DC V-stitch = Double Crochet, CH1, Double Crochet
TR = Treble ( yo hook x 2 )
TRFP = Treble Front Post
DBLTR = Double Treble ( yo hook x 3 )
DBLTRFP = Double Treble Front Post
PUFF = smaller version ( yo x 4 )
BOBBLE = smaller version ( 4 DC’s )
FINISHED SIZE: 16”-17” x 16”-17” or 42-44cm x 42-44cm
 Important Note

At various points this design will look a little puffy, and

at other points it will “cup”. This is normal, so don’t be
alarmed and think you’ve botched the pattern!
This square will come out beautifully after blocking!
Once you have completed the final round, pin the
square evenly ( every 2” or so ) onto a flat, absorbent
surface. Spray liberally with water , cover with a damp
cloth and leave to relax and dry overnight.
The final size should be 16”- 17”.

I am always available to help or answer any questions.

Message me on Ravelry, Facebook, my Blog, or email:
[email protected]
Disclaimer: my pattern writing is a work in progress,
please be kind and constructive with your remarks! xx
 Colourways Suggestions
The Warm Colourway
Elle Yarn Family Knit DK. 100% acrylic.
This DK is really what I call a charity weight yarn because it’s a little thicker than
normal DK . Almost an Aran weight , but not quite.
Aran, Sunshine, Gold, Claret, Hibiscus, Citrus, Turquoise, Aqua, Soft Lime, Russet,
Marron Brown, Antique Brown

The Cool Colourway

Aran, Soft Lime, Duck Egg, Snowmoon, Marguerita.

 I’d recommend a thicker yarn for a cushion cover as it holds

the shape really well.
 Stylecraft Special DK is lovely if you’re using this square for
making a Blanket.
 ROUND ONE
Begin by making 8 SC’s into a MAGIC RING.
Gently pull ring closed , slip stitch into 1st SC
and fasten off. = 8 SC’s.

ROUND TWO
Begin in any SC with a PUFF stitch ( yo x 4),
CH 1 to close the PUFF. Do this in every SC.
Slip stitch into top of first PUFF to close.
Fasten Off. = 8 PUFFS ( yo x 4)

ROUND THREE
Begin this round with a CH 3 into any space
BETWEEN the PUFFS.

Into the same space * DC 3, CH 3 and slip

stitch back into that same space. CH 1 over
the next PUFF , slip stitch into next space
between PUFFS. CH 3. *
 Repeat * until you have 8 ^CH 3, DC 3, CH
3^ Petals + 8 CH 1’s.
Slip stitch into 3rd beginning chain to close. Fasten Off.
ROUND FOUR
Begin this round with a CH 4 (=1TR)
between the CH 3 and the 1st DC from
RND 3.
Now TR3TOG ( working between the DC’s
from RND 3 ).
See image.
*CH 6, TR4TOG ( working between the
DC’s from RND 3 ), CH 6*
Repeat * to *, until you have 8 TR4TOG’s,
and 8 CH 6’s.
Slip stitch into the top of your 1st
TR4TOG. Fasten Off.
 ROUND FIVE
Working on the WS ( wrong side ).
Begin this round with a *SC BP around
centre DC (#2) from RND 3. CH 6.* Re-
peat * to* until you have 8 SCBP’s and
8 CH 6’s. Slip stitch into 1st SCBP to
close. Fasten Off.
ROUND SIX
Begin this round by pulling the CH 6
from RND 5 , to the RS ( right side ),
under the CH 6 from RND 4. Into this
CH 6 space make: *1 SC, 1 HDC. 1 DC,
1 PICOT ( CH3, ss back into base st)1
DC, 1 HDC, 1 SC. Then 1 HDCFP ( half
double crochet front post ) around
the top of your TR4TOG from RND 4. Pull CH 6 from RND 5 to the
front. Repeat * to *.
= 8 ^ 1SC, 1HDC, 1DC, 1PICOT, 1
DC, 1 HDC, 1 SC ^ “leaves” and 8
HDCFP’s.
Slip stitch into back of 1st SC, to
close. Fasten off.
ROUND SEVEN
Optional Embellishment

Begin with a SCFP over the top of your

PUFF stitch from RND 2.

This is a bit tricky. You’re going to work

* 3 SC around the CH3 “leg” from
RND3, then 4 SC’s around the 1st Treble
from RND 4. Now SC into the top of the
HDCFP from RND6. Then you’ll work
“down” the TR from RND 4 as well as
down the CH 3 from RND 3 = 4 SC
around the TR, and 3 SC
around the CH 3, then 1 SCFP
over the next PUFF.*

Repeat * to * until you have “

outlined” your RND 3 and 4
“petals”.
To close this round slip stitch
into the 1st SCFP. Fasten off.
 ROUND EIGHT
Begin this round with a * SC into the
“space” after a HDCFP from RND 6. CH
2, 1 SC into 2 middle strands behind the
DC’s from RND 6. CH 2 and SC 1 into
“space” before a HDCFP from RND 6,
skip over HDCFP, CH 2 *.
Repeat * to * until you have 24 CH 2’s
and 24 SC’s.

To end this round slip stitch

into 1st SC and fasten off.

Front and Back Views

ROUND NINE
Begin this round in any CH 2 space over the HDCFP from RND 6.
**CH 3, 1 DC, CH 3, slip stitch back into CH 2 space, then repeat x
2* into same CH 2 space. CH 3. Skip over the CH 2, 1 SC, CH 2, slip
stitch into the next CH 2 space over the HDCFP from RND 6*
Repeat * to * until you have 8 sets of * to * and 8 CH 3’s.
To end, slip stitch into back of 1st CH. Fasten off.
ROUND TEN
Begin with 2 CH’s =1 HDC into the SC
( RND 8) that you made into the 2 middle
strands behind the DC’s (RND 6.) Then
squeeze 3 HDC’s into that same SC. *CH 3
and 1 SC from back to front, through the
opening “under” the CH 2 (RND 8), work-
ing over the 1 SC (RND 7 embellish-
ment ) you did into the HDCPF. Then CH 3
and 4 HDC’s into the next SC behind the
DC’s from RND 6.* Repeat * to *.
= 8 X 4 HDC’s,16 CH
3’s and 8 SC’S. To
end, slip stitch into
1st CH’s. Fasten Off.

BACK VIEW
You can just see the 4 HDC’s peeping from behind the Blue
“leaves” and the SC over the top of the “embellishment” from
RND 7.
 ROUND ELEVEN
Begin with a SC into 2 middle strands be-
hind the 4 HDC’s from previous round.
*CH 2. Now make a HDCBP around the
1st DC ( between the 2 CH 3’s from RND
9). CH 2, 1HDCBP around the 2nd DC, CH
2, HDCBP around 3rd DC. CH 2. 1 SC into
2 strands behind the 4 HDC’s from previ-
ous round. *.
Repeat * to * until you have completed
this round. Slip stitch into 1st SC. Do not fasten off.
= 8 SC’s, 32 CH 2’s, 24 HDCBP’s.
 ROUND TWELVE
To begin this round you will have slip
stitched into beginning SC from previous
round. Now CH 5 and slip stitch back into
that same SC, creating a CH 5 LOOP.
*CH 1 over the CH 2’s and the 1st HDCBP
from previous round.
Then make 5TR’s into the next CH 2 space, skip over the next
HDBP, and TR 5 into the next CH 2 space. CH1, skip over the last
HDCBP and CH 2, slip stitch into the 1 SC, CH 5 and slip stitch back
into the same SC. *
Repeat * to* . To end this round slip stitch into the base of your
1st LOOP. Fasten off.
= 8 CH 5 LOOPS, 16 CH1’s, 80 TR’s
 ROUND THIRTEEN
Begin this round with a HDCBP around
the “leg” at the base of the CH 5
LOOP. This will be where the SC ( RND
11) and the SC (RND 12) meet.
*CH 1. Now do a HDCBP around each
post of the 10 TR’s. CH 1 and make a
HDCBP around the “leg” below the CH
5 LOOP.*
Repeat * to * until this round is
completed.

= 88 HDCBP’s, 16 CH 1’s.
To close, slip stitch into 1st HDCBP and fasten off.
 ROUND FOURTEEN
Begin with a SC into any CH 1 before a
HDCBP ( RND 13). CH 1 and *skip over
the 1st HDCBP. 1 SC into the next space,
CH 1, skip over the 2nd HDCBP, SC into
next space ( you’re working 1 SC be-
tween each HDCBP, separated by a CH 1).
Continue thus until you reach your last
CH 1 over HDCBP #10, then SC into CH 1
space, CH2, 1 SC into next CH1 space.*
Repeat * to *.
= 88 SC’s, 8 CH 2’s, 80 CH 1’s
Slip stitch into 1st SC to close. Fasten off.
 ROUND FIFTEEN
Begin this round by making a PUFF stitch
*( yo x 4 ) into the CH 5 LOOP (RND 12).
You’ll be working this PUFF into the LOOP
and also over the CH2’s(RND 14) behind
the LOOP. CH 1 to close your PUFF, CH 1,
skip over 2 SC * then *1 SC into next CH 1 space, CH 1, skip over
SC and SC 1 into next CH 1 space*
Repeat * to * until you have 8 SC and 7 CH1’s.
CH 1, skip over 2 SC’s and make another PUFF * to *
Repeat the instructions until you have,
= 8 PUFF’s (yo x 4)
72 CH1’s
64 SC’s
To close this round slip stitch into top of your 1st Puff. Fasten off.
 ROUND SIXTEEN
Begin this round with 2 CH (=1HDC) +
2HDC’s INTO the top of any PUFF from
previous round. Now make 1 TRFP
around the left “leg” of the CH 5 LOOP
(RND12). Skip over the 1st SC from previ-
ous round and 1 SC into next CH 1 space, *CH 1, skip over next SC
and 1 SC into next CH 1 space. Do this until you have 7 SC’s and 6
CH1’s. Now 1 TRFP around the “leg” of the CH 5 LOOP (RND 12),
then 3 HDC’s into the top of the next PUFF. 1 TRFP around the
“leg” of the CH 5 LOOP (RND 12 ), skip 1st SC ( previous round )
and SC into next CH 1 space.*
Repeat * to *= 58 SC’s, 48 CH 1’s, 16 TRFP’s,8 sets of 3 HDS’s.
To close, slip stitch into beginning chains. Fasten off.
 ROUND SEVENTEEN ( INTO = literally into
the stitch )
Begin in a space directly after a “ left leg”
TRFP ( from previous round ) with a CH 3
= 1DC. *Now IDC INTO the 1st SC, 1 DC in-
to the CH 1 space, 1 DC INTO the next
2nd SC, 1 DC into the next CH 1 space = 5
DC’s. Now, make a DC V-stitch ( 1DC, CH1,
1 DC ) INTO the next SC. Skip over the CH
1, and 1 DC V-stitch INTO next SC, skip
over CH 1, 1 DC V-stitch INTO next SC.
Then 1 DC next CH1 space, 1 DC INTO next
SC, 1 DC into CH 1 space, 1 DC INTO SC.
The last 1 DC is into that space just before your next TRFP. Now
TRFP2TOG over the TRFP’s and 3 HDC’s ( previous round) . 1 DC
into next space ( before 1st SC ).*
Repeat * to * until you have = 24 DC V-stiches and 80 DC’s, 8
TR2FPTOG’s.
To close this round slip stitch into
your first chains. Fasten off.
 ROUND EIGHTEEN ( Making Bobbles!)
**Note: this a slightly smaller version of
the BOBBLE which normally is DC5TOG.**
Begin by turning your work WS ( wrong
side ).
Now * work a BOBBLE stitch into the 1st
DC V-stitch on your right. To make the
BOBBLE. CH3 (=1 DC) then DC3TOG and 1
SC back into the V-stitch. CH3. Work an-
other BOBBLE stitch into your next V-
stitch, CH 3, work another BOBBLE stitch
into your last V-stitch. After the last SC
back into the V-stitch, pull yarn through
and snip off. Leave a few inches of tail to
work in later. * Do this into each of the V-stitches ( 8 sets of three
V-stitches ).
= 24 BOBBLES,
16 CH 3’s.
 ROUND NINETEEN
Begin this round on the RS (right side) of
your work. You’ll be working a DC V-
stitch over those CH 3’s from the previ-
ous round.
Start in the space beneath the 1st CH3
which is where your V’s from RND 17
join. CH 3 = 1DC, CH 1 and 1 DC ( = 1DC
V-stitch ). Now make another DC V-
stitch over the next CH3’s and into the
joining space of the previous V’s ( RND
17). *Now work 1 DC between the next
5 DC’s from RND17. Begin in the space
before the 1st DC (RND 17). There will be
1 DC post left at the end. Skip over this
DC and make a SCFP around the top of
the TR2FPTOG’s (RND 17). Then skip
over 1st DC , 1 DC between next 5 DC’s.
Skip over BOBBLE and make a 1 DC V-
stich over the CH3’s and joining space ( RND 17). Skip over next
BOBBLE , 1 DC V-stitch over CH 3’s and joining space (RND 17).*
Repeat * to * until you have 16 DC V-stitches, 80 DC’s, 8 SCFP’s.
To close this round slip stitch into the beginning chains. Fasten off.
ROUND 20
This is the 2nd BOBBLE ROUND.
Repeat the BOBBLE instructions
from RND 18. You’ll be making 1
Bobble into each 1 DC V-stitch,
with a CH 3 space between them.
Then you’ll fasten off leaving a tail
to work in later.
You should end this round with 16
BOBBLE stiches and 8 Ch3’s.

ROUND 21
Begin between the 2 BOBBLES from previous round with a CH 3
=1 DC + 1 CH + 1 DC ( = I DC V-stitch ), over the CH 3 and joining
space ( RND 19 ). DC 2 into space before 1st DC, *DC 1 between
next 4 DC’S. Skip over last DC , 1 SC into very next space before
the SCFP (RND 19). Make a SC2TOG over the SCFP. Your SC’S will
fall either side of the SCFP. * 1 DC between next 4 DC’s, skip over
last DC , DC 2 into that space. Skip over BOBBLE, 1 DC V-stitch
over the CH3 and joining space ( RND 19 ). Skip over next BOB-
BLE, DC 2 before 1st DC. Skip over last DC post.*
Repeat * to * until you have 8 DC V-stitches, 96 DC’s, 8 SC2TOG.
To close, slip stitch into the beginning chains. Fasten off.
ROUND 22
Into the final DC V-stitch make 1 BOBBLE stitch as per pre-
vious instructions. Leave a tail to work in later.
ROUND 23
Begin with a CH3 = 1 DC + 2DC * into the space before the 2 DC
( RND 21) , 1 DC between the next 2 DC’s, then 1 DC between the
next 4 DC’s. Skip over last DC post. Work a SC2TOG ( as before )
over the SC2TOG ( RND 21 ), skip over first DC, 1 DC between next
4 DC’S , 1 DC between the next 2 DC’s, skip over last DC post, and
DC 3 into next space. Skip over last BOBBLE, DC 3*.
Repeat * to * until you have 128 DC’S, 8 SC2TOG’s.
To end this round slip stitch into beginning chains,
Do not fasten off.
ROUND 24
1 SC back into the joining space between 3DC’s ^ 3DC’s.
* 1 SC between the next 6 DC’s, there will be 2 remaining DC’s.
1 DBLTRFP ( double treble front post ) around the LEFT TRFP
( RND 19), 1 SC between the remaining 2 DC’s, skip over last DC
post, SC2TOG’s over the SC2TOG’s (from previous round).
Place the 1 SC’s in the space after last and before first DC’s.
1 SC between next 2 DC’s then 1DBLTRFP under the 1st DBLTRFP
and around the TRFP ( RND 19 ). They will cross over each other.
1 SC between next 6 DC’s and 3 SC into the joining space be-
tween the 3DC’s ^ 3DC’s.*
Repeat until you have 8 SC2TOG’s, 80 SC’s, 16 DBLTRFP’s.
To close this round, make 2 SC into that joining space between
the 2 sets of DC3’s. Slip stitch into the 1st SC. Fasten off.
ROUND 25
Begin this round with a PUFF stitch ( yo x 4 ). See image ( RND 23)
where to place this PUFF.
CH 1 to close the PUFF. Now *skip over the 1 SC from previous
round then make 1 SC into the BACK LOOP of the DBLTRFP
( RND24 ). This counts as your 1st SC. Now 1 SC into the BACK
LOOPS of the next 14 stitches, 1 SC into the BACK LOOP of the
next DBLTRFP. = 16 SC’s.
Skip over the 1 SC from previous round, make a PUFF between
the SC2TOG (RND 23). CH 1 to close PUFF.*
Repeat * to * until you have 8 PUFFS ( yo x 4 ), 128 BLSC’s.
To close this round, slip stitch into the top of the 1st PUFF stitch
and fasten off.
ROUND 26
Begin this round with CH3 =1DC + 5DC’s into that teeny hole at
the top of any PUFF. = 6DC’s.
*Skip 2 back loop SC’s then SC 1 between the next 13 stitches.
There will be 2BLSC’s at the end. Skip over the 2BLSC’s and make
6DC’s into the top of your next PUFF. *
Repeat * to * until you have 8 x 6DC’s, 104 SC’s.
To end this round slip stitch into the top of your beginning CH3.
ROUND 27
Begin with a *1 SC into the space between the first and se-
cond SC’s after a 6dc fan. Now 1 SC between the next 11 st. =
12 SC. Skip over the last SC. Now make 1 SCFP around each of the
6DC’s. Skip 1 SC ( from previous round) and 1SC between next 12
stitches = 12 SC’s. *
Repeat * to * until you have 8 x 6SCFP’s, 96 SC’s.

To end this round,

slip stitch into 1st SC
and fasten off.
ROUND 28
Begin this with a *PUFF stitch ( yo x 4) between the 1st and 2nd
SCFP, the 2nd and 3rd SCFP, the 3rd and 4th SCFP, the 4th and 5th
SCFP and the 5th and 6th SCFP’s.
= 5 PUFF stitches.
Now, 1 TRFP around the DBLTRFP (RND 24). Skip 2 SC’s and 1 DC
between next 11 SC’s. Skip 2 SC’s and 1 TRFP around the next
DBLTRFP (RND 24), then*
Repeat * to * until you have 40 Puff stitches, 16 TRFP’s, 88 DC’s.
To close this round, slip stitch into 1st PUFF and fasten off.
ROUND 29
In this round we begin squaring off the circle.
Start in a group of 5 PUFFS.
Make a CH3 = 1 DC into the space BEFORE 1st PUFF.
*Skip over 1st PUFF and make a 1 DC V-stitch ( 1 DC, CH 1, 1 DC )
between 1st and 2nd PUFF.
Skip over 2nd PUFF, DC V-stitch between 2nd and 3rd PUFF. CH1.
Skip over 3rd PUFF, DC V-stitch between 3rd and 4th PUFF.
Skip over 4th PUFF, DC V-stitch between 4th and 5th PUFF.
Skip over 5th PUFF and 1DC in space before the TRFP ( RND 28 )
Skip over the TRFP ( RND 28), 1 SCBP around next 11 DC’s ( RND
28).
Skip over the TRFP (RND 28) , 1 SC before the 1st PUFF.
1SCFP around top of 1st PUFF, 1 SC into next space.
1SCFP around top of 2nd PUFF, 1 SC into next space.
1SCFP around top of 3rd PUFF, 1 SC into next space.
1SCFP around top of 4th PUFF, 1 SC into next space.
1SCFP around top of last PUFF and 1 SC into space before the
next TRFP (RND 28 ). Skip over the TRFP, and 1 SCBP around next
11 DC’s. Skip over the TRFP and 1DC into space before the 1st
PUFF.*
 ROUND 29 continued.
Repeat * to * until you have made
FOUR corners.

= 16 DC V-stitches ( 4 in each corner )

8 DC’s ( 2 in each corner ), 4 CH 1’s ( between 2nd and 3rd PUFF)
108 SCBP’s ( 11+11 per side + 1 for each PUFF )
24 SC’s ( between the PUFFs ).
Slip stitch into beginning chains to close. Fasten off.
ROUND 30
Increasing the corners.
Begin in the corner CH 1 with a CH5 = 1 DBLTR. CH2 + 1DBLTR into
same CH 1 space.
*1 TR into 3rd V-stitch ( RND 29)
1TR into joining space between V’s.
1TR into last DC V-stitch
1TR into space before the DC.
SKIP over DC and DC 1 into space after the DC, then DC 1 into
next 3 SCBP’s ( =4DC’s). 1 HDC into next 3 SCBP’s. 1 SC into next 4
SCBP’s Now 1 SC into the next 10 stitches. These will fall over the
SCFP+ SC’s ( RND 29 ) and PUFFS ( RND 28). 1SC into next 4stitch-
es, 1 HDC into next 3st, 1DC into next 4st, 1TR after the 1st DC
(RND29), 1TR into the 1st V-stitch, 1TR into the joining space be-
tween V’s, 1TR into the 2nd V-stitch ( RND 29), 1DBLTR into CH1
corner space, CH2, 1DBLTR into same CH1 space.*
Repeat * to * until you have:
= 8DBLTR’s + 4 x corner CH2’S.
32 TR’s, 32 DC’s, 24 HDC’s, 72 SC’s.
Slip stitch into the top of beginning chains to close, fasten off.
ROUND 31
Begin this round in any CH 2 corner space,
Start with CH 4 = 1TR + 2 TR’s ( = 3TR’s ). CH 2.
3 TR’s into same corner CH 2’s. Now, *1TR into the next 7 st.
Don’t miss the first “hidden” stitch!
1 DC into the next 4st, 1 HDC into next 4 st, 1 SC into next 2 st.
1 SCBP around the next 10 SC’s ( over the PUFFS from RND 28 ).
1 SC into next 2st, 1 HDC into next 4st, 1 DC into next 4st, 1 TR in-
to next 7 ( don’t miss the last “hidden” one! ).
Now, 3 TR’s, CH 2, 3 TR’s into the corner CH 2 space. *
Repeat * to * until you have:
= 24 corner TR’s + 4 x corner CH2’s
56 “ other” TR’S, 32 DC’s, 32 HDC’s, 16 SC’s and 40 SCBP’s.
Slip stitch into beginning chains to close. Fasten off.

That sneaky hidden stitch!

ROUND 32
Begin in any corner CH 2 space with *2SC, CH1, 2SC.
Now, 1 SC into the next 20st. Don’t miss the beginning “hidden”
stitch. This should bring you to the beginning of the 10 SCFP’s. 1
SC into first 4 back post stitches. 1 DBLTRFP ( double treble front
post ) around the previous TRFP ( RND 28 )… as well as the next
TRFP. ( RND 28 ). You’ll be making a DBLTR2FPTOG ( double treble
two front posts together! ) and 1 SC into the very next 5th back
post single crochet. Then 1 SC into next 5 stitches ( back post SC
stitches ). 1 SC into next 20 st. If all went well you should end up
exactly in the stitch before the CH2 corner space.*
Repeat * to * until you have:
196 SC’s ( includes the SC where you have joined the DBLTR2TOG
= 4SC’s)
8 DBLTR’s joined together.
+ 16 corner SC’s and 4 x corner CH1’s.
 The 20 SC’s will end where
the needle points. 1 SC into
next 4SCBP’s.
This is where you will make
the DBLTR2 TOG.
ROUND 33
Begin in any CH1 corner space with a PUFF stitch ( yo x 4 ). CH2, 1
PUFF.
Skip over 2SC’s, 1 PUFF into next st. Continue this sequence of
skipping a stitch, 1PUFF, skip a st, 1PUFF. Space your PUFFS so
that you get 25 PUFFS per side ( not counting the 2 corner
PUFFS ). To end this round, slip stitch into the top of your 1st
PUFF. In total = 108 PUFF stitches and 4 x corner CH2’s.

The round of single crochets is optional as are the surface slip

stitches and the French Knots!
You may want to extend the borders with other stitches of your
choice.
 The Final Word.

Until you have designed and written a pattern yourself, nobody

can quite understand the amount of work, often in to the wee
hours, this entails.
This pattern has been diligently tested and retested by myself, as
well as by my amazing Testers, Cindy van der Schee, Judy Stamnes
and Lucia Martins ( THANK YOU ,to the moon and back! )
Still, Gremlins do slip into the works!

My Testers have described this pattern as “challenging” but I am

confident that taken one stitch at a time, one round at a time, it
will come out beautifully!

Enjoy! And HAPPY HOOKY!

Designed by: Jen Tyler

Cape Town , South Africa