National University

Gazipur

Report on: Basic garments construction

Course Code: - 520544
Course Title: - Basic garments construction - Practical

Submitted To:
Controller of Examinations
National University, Gazipur

Supervised By:
Abhi Mishra Das
Assistant Professor
Department of Apparel Manufacture & Technology
Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology
Submitted By:
Name : MEHARAB HOSSAIN OPI
Registration No : 18505005086
Session : 2018-2019
Department : Apparel Manufacture & Technology
Exam Code : 5904
Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology

Submission Date:

1
 INDEX
1.0 PROCESS BREAKDOWN OF MEN’S LONG SLEEVE SHIRT..........................
4
1.0.1 COLLAR.............................................................................................................. 5
1.0.2 CUFF ................................................................................................................... 6
1.0.3 BACK PART........................................................................................................ 6
1.0.4 FRONT PART...................................................................................................... 7
1.0.5 SLEEVE............................................................................................................... 8
1.0.6 ASSEMBLY........................................................................................................ 8
1.2 ELEMENTS OF SEWING SECTION...................................................................
10
1.3 BODY MEASUREMENT.....................................................................................
10
1.4 ANALYSIS............................................................................................................
11
1.4.1 STYLE DESCRIPTION.....................................................................................
11
1.4.2 POSITION STRATEGY.....................................................................................
11
1.4.3 SIZING AND FIT...............................................................................................
11
1.4.4 MATERIAL SELECTION ................................................................................
12
1.4.5 COMPONENT ASSEMBLY............................................................................. 12
1.4.6 FINAL ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING............................................................
13
1.4.7 FINISHING........................................................................................................ 14
1.4.8 GARMENT PRESENTATION..........................................................................
14
2.0 PROCESS BREAKDOWN OF T-SHIRT.............................................................
15
2.1 ANALYSIS OF A T – SHIRT...............................................................................
17

2
2.1.1 PRODUCT POSITIONING STRATEGY..........................................................
17
2.1.2 SIZING AND FIT...............................................................................................
17
2.1.3 MATERIALS......................................................................................................
18
2.1.4 SPREADING AND CUTTING..........................................................................
19
2.1.5 ASSEMBLY....................................................................................................... 19
2.1.6 FINISHING........................................................................................................ 20
2.1.7 PRESENTATION.............................................................................................. 20
2.2 CONSTRUCTION................................................................................................ 21
2.2.1 A ROUND NECK T-SHIRT HAS 5 COMPONENTS..................................... 21
2.2.2 SEWING MACHINE USED IN T-SHIRT MAKING........................................
21
2.3 ASSEMBLY.......................................................................................................... 21
2.3.6 BOTTOM HEM..................................................................................................
22
3.0 PROCESS BREAKDOWN OF POLO-SHIRT.....................................................
22
3.1 ANALYSIS............................................................................................................
24
3.1.1 EVOLUTION OF MODERN POLO FABRICS................................................
24
3.1.2 THE LOGO.........................................................................................................
24
3.1.3 DESIGNER LABELS.........................................................................................
24
3.1.4 POLO SHIRT CARE..........................................................................................
24
3.1.5 THE PLACKET..................................................................................................
24
3.1.6 THE COLLAR....................................................................................................
25
3
3.1.7 THE BODY.........................................................................................................
25
3.1.8 THE SLEEVES...................................................................................................
25
3.1.9 THE FABRIC..................................................................................................... 25
3.1.10 THE FIT............................................................................................................
26
3.1.11 THE SIZING.....................................................................................................
26
3.1.12 TRIM DETAILS...............................................................................................
26
3.2 CONSTRUCTION.................................................................................................
26
3.2.1 MATERIALS AND METHODS........................................................................
26
3.2.2 METHODS......................................................................................................... 27
3.2.3 SEWING SECTION...........................................................................................
27

4
1.0 PROCESS BREAKDOWN OF MEN’S LONG SLEEVE SHIRT

Figure: Anatomy of a Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt

5
 1.0.1 COLLAR
Process Process Description M/C Type Working Aid
no.

1 Collar top part fusing Fusing M/C

2 Collar run stitch Single Needle Normal Presser

Lock Stitch Foot
Machine

3 collar point Trim Scissor

4 Collar Turn & Point Pointer

5 Collar 1/4" Top Stitch Single Needle 1/4" Compensating

Lock Stitch Right Presser Foot
Machine

6 Collar Outline (1/4" Top Stitch) Single Needle 1/4" Compensating

Lock Stitch Right Presser Foot
Machine

7 Collar Band Fusing Fusing M/C

8 Collar Band Hem (As per Single Needle Edge Guide

Measurement) Lock Stitch
Machine

9 Collar & Collar Band Attach Single Needle Band Pattern

Lock Stitch
Machine

10 Collar & Band Attach Trim Scissor

11 Collar Band Turn & point Pointer

6
 12 1/16" Top stitch at band Single Needle 1/16"
Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Right Presser Foot

1.0.2 CUFF
Process Process Description M/C Type Working Aid
no.

13 Cuff Fusing Iron

14 Cuff Hem (As per required Single Needle -----

measurement) Lock Stitch
Machine

15 Cuff Run Stitch Single Needle Normal Presser

Lock Stitch Foot
Machine
16 Cuff Trim Scissor

17 Cuff Turn & Point Single Needle -----

Lock Stitch
Machine
18 Cuff 1/16" Top Stitch at Edge Single Needle 1/16"
Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Right Presser Foot
19 Cuff Out line (1/4" Top Stitch) Single Needle 1/4" Compensating
Lock Stitch Right Presser Foot
Machine

1.0.3 BACK PART

Process Description M/C Type Working Aid
20 Back Pleat Tuck Single Needle Normal Presser
Lock Stitch Foot

7
 Machine
21 Back Loop Making Single Needle -----
Lock Stitch
Machine
22 Back Loop Attach to Back Part Single Needle Normal Presser
Lock Stitch Foot
Machine
23 Back & Back Yoke Attach Single Needle -----
Lock Stitch
Machine
24 Main Label & Size Label Attach Single Needle 1/16"
to under yoke Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Right Presser Foot

1.0.4 FRONT PART

Proces Process Description M/C Type Working Aid
s no.
25 Right Front BTN stand stitch Single Needle -----
Lock Stitch
Machine
26 Placket Attach to Left Front Single Needle -----
Lock Stitch
Machine
27 Pocket Position mark to left Chalk & Pattern
front
28 Pocket Hem Stitch Single Needle -----
Lock Stitch
Machine
29 Pocket Edge Iron Iron & Pattern
30 Pocket Attach to Left Front Single Needle 1/16"
Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Right Presser Foot

8
 1.0.5 SLEEVE
Process Process Description M/C Type Working Aid
no.
31 Sleeve Upper Placket Iron Iron & Pattern
32 Sleeve Lower Placket Attach Single Needle 1/16"
Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Left Presser Foot
33 Sleeve Upper Placket Attach Single Needle 1/16"
Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Right Presser Foot

1.0.6 ASSEMBLY
Process Process Description M/C Type Working Aid
no.
34 Shoulder Attach Single Needle Normal Presser
Lock Stitch Foot
Machine
35 Shoulder Top stitch Single Needle Single Needle
Lock Stitch Lock Stitch
Machine Machine
Compensating
Right Presser Foot
or Compensating
Left Presser Foot
36 Shoulder Top stitch Single Needle Single Needle
Lock Stitch Lock Stitch
Machine Machine
Compensating
Right Presser Foot
or Compensating
Left Presser Foot
37 Neck Center Mark Scissor/Pencil
38 Collar Center Mark Scissor/Pencil
39 Collar Attach to Body Single Needle -----

9
 Lock Stitch
Machine
40 Collar Closed Single Needle 1/16"
Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Left Presser Foot
41 Sleeve Top Stitch (Double) Single Needle
Lock Stitch
Machine
42 Side Joint (Back + Front) Single Needle -----
Lock Stitch
Machine
43 Cuff Attach to Sleeve Hem Single Needle Normal Presser
Lock Stitch Foot/Folder
Machine
44 Cuff Closed Single Needle 1/16"
Lock Stitch Compensating
Machine Left Presser Foot
45 Bottom Hem Single Needle -----
Lock Stitch
Machine
46 Button Hole Stitch Button Hole -----
Machine
47 Button Position Mark Pencil &
Template
48 Button Attach Button Attach Template
Machine

10
 1.2 Elements of sewing section

 Sewing thread
 Needle
 Sewing Machine
 The Plan.
 Accurate Body Measurements.
 A Good Pattern.
 Quality Fabric.
 Precise Cutting.
 The Right Tools.
 Excellent Finishing.

1.3 Body Measurement

LONG SLEEVE SIZE CHART (IN INCH) FOR “L” (LARGE)

Collar 15
Shirt Length 26
Shoulder Width 19
Sleeve Length 21
Chest 42
Waist 41
Cuff L: 8.5 W: 2 ¼

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For making a long sleeve shirt, we need 3 types of sewing machines.
They are given below:
1. Plain Machine or Lock Stitch Machine
2. 4 thread Over lock or over edge Stitch Machine
3. Button Hole Machine

1.4 ANALYSIS
7 aspects of garment analysis. They are given below:
1. Style description
2. Position strategy
3. Sizing and fit
4. Material selection
5. Component assembly
6. Finishing
7. Garment presentation

1.4.1 Style description: Fashion and styling focus on collars and cuffs. Collars are
the most visible part of any shirt whether in the package or on the wearer. Collar
styles may include Windsor spread, button-down, tab, eyelet, and white contrast. Style
features often found on better men's shirts include split yokes, button through sleeve
plackets, single-needle sleeve seaming, lapped side seams, curved edge pockets,
removable collar stays, and enclosed right-front facing.
1.4.2 Position strategy: The average single-needle shirt required approximately 14
to 16 minutes to produce (Armfield, 1985). Today, with the application of technology,
the production times for dress shirts have been reduced by 30% (Hill, 1994). This
means a single needle shirt can now be made in 9.8 to 11.2 standard allowed minutes.
Dress shirts are designed and developed as a durable product, but the degree of
durability is dependent on materials used and methods of assembly.
1.4.3 Sizing and fit: Some manufacturers have tried to use SML (small, medium,
large) like sport shirts, but with little customer acceptance.
Fit of dress shirts is varied by offering regular and tapered cuts. Regular fit has side
seams on straight grain with extra fullness built into shoulder or center-back pleats.
Tapered shirts often feature a special descriptive label that describes the fit as slim fit,

12
tapered, or athletic cut. Tapered means the waist of the shirt is smaller than the chest
area. Tapered shirts may have tapered side seams and darts at the waist, but no pleats.
Collar fit is an important aspect of shirt comfort and appearance, but factors affecting
collar fit are often not understood. Four factors affect collar fit in dress shirts: (1)
circumference of buttoned collar band, (2) neckline drop, which is the position of the
shirt neckline in relation to the body's neck curve, (3) collar height, and (4)
relationship of front height to back height of the collar.
Collar bands connect neckline curves with collars and establish the position of the
collar in relation to the body. The relationship of front collar height to back col lar
height is controlled by varying the shape and width of the collar band, the depth of
front and back neckline curves, and neckline width at the shoulders. Some collar
bands are nearly straight, while others curve noticeably from center back to center
front. Some bands may be widest at center back and taper to a very narrow band at
center front.
Sleeve fit depends on sleeve length, shape of the sleeve cap, depth of the arm hole,
and curve of the armhole seam. Sleeve length is specified as the second part of dress
shirt sizing. Measurements for sleeve length are taken from center of the back yoke at
the neckline, across the shoulder, along a flat, straight sleeve to the end of the cuff.
1.4.4 Material selection: Materials used in dress shirts include piece goods (shell
fabrics), interlinings threads, and buttons. Some collar styles also require stays or
reinforcement under collar buttons. Materials selection is based on customer
preferences, coat limitations, availability, and suitability of materials to equipment.
Fiber contents of shirting fabrics are primarily cotton and cotton blends. Better shirts
tend to be 100% cotton or have a high percentage of cotton blended with polyester.
Fabric costs increase proportionally with count, yarn fineness, and intricacy of fabric
design.
The most widely used dress shirt fabrics are oxford and broadcloth. Quality of oxford
fabric is determined by yarn type, yarn size, fabric count, and fabric weight.
Sewing threads are important to the aesthetics and durability of finished garments.
Primary factors that influence quality and performance of thread for shirts are
fineness, strength, and color. Fine threads blend with fabric, create less dis placement
pucker, and provide a better aesthetic appearance.

13
Buttons on dress shirts are usually four-hole. Better shirts may use a different size
button for each component (cuffs, collar, and center front), while budget shirts may
use the same size button in all locations.
Interlinings are important to the structure and shape retention of shirts. Interlinings
that are used in the collar, collar band, cuffs, and left-front band (plait) may be
different types. Fusible are used in some budget and moderate lines to provide a
smooth collar finish.
Collar stays are used in some styles to provide shape and support. Removable stays
are stiffer and retain their shape better because they are not subjected to high
temperatures and distortion in the laundry process.
1.4.5 Component assembly: First of all, we have to cut a fabric using Long
Sleeve Shirt using Pattern. We laid a fabric on cutting table. After laying the fabric we
mark on the surface of fabric with calk using pattern. After marking we cut the fabric
with scissors and make parts. Such as: Collar & Collar Band, Cuff, Sleeve, Front part,
Back Part, Yock.
Collar: After cutting the fabric fusing the top part of the collar with interlining using
iron. Then we rolling with Single needle lock stitch machine on the top and inner part.
After stitch turn the collar with hand. When turning is complete give a collar outline
with 1/4th top stitch using single needle lock stitch machine.

After collar is done, we prepare the collar band. We attached interlining on the top
part of the collar band. After fusing hemming the collar band and give a 1/4 th stitch
using Single needle lock stitch machine. Then collar and collar attached with Single
needle lock stitch machine. Collar band turn with hand and give a 1/16 th top stitch at
collar band using Single needle lock stitch machine. Collar and collar band are
finished.
Cuff: At first, we fused the interlining at top part of cuff. After fusing cuff hemming
is done by Single needle lock stitch machine. After hemming give a rolling with 1/4 th
stitch using Single needle lock stitch machine. Then turn the cuff with using hands. At
last, give a 1/4th top stitch on cuff outline using Single needle lock stitch machine.
Front part: Front pair tuck with Single needle lock stitch machine. Front button
placket makes with 1/16th top stitch. Front placket fusing with iron. Pocket positioning
with following pattern.

14
For making pocket we have to rolling 1inch using Single needle lock stitch machine.
After rolling we shaped the pocket with ironing. Then attached on the front part.
Back part: Yock attached to back part using Single needle lock stitch machine. After
attached 1/4th and 1/16th top stitch at yock using Single needle lock stitch machine.
Sleeve: Gamble attached to the body using Single needle lock stitch machine. Sleeve
placket fold and iron. After ironing placket attached with sleeve giving 1/16 th stitch
using Single needle lock stitch machine.
1.4.6 Final assembly and finishing: After all parts are ready, we assemble every
part with each other.
First of all we joined shoulder with front and back part using Single needle lock
stitch machine. After joining give 1/16th and 1/4th top stitch using Single needle lock
stitch machine.
Secondly sleeve join to body with using overlock machine. After overlock give a 1/4 th
armhole top stitch using Single needle lock stitch machine.
Thirdly collar joint to body using Single needle lock stitch machine. After joining
closed the collar and give 1/16th stitch.
Fourthly give side seam using four threads overlock and Single needle lock stitch
machine.
Fifthly cuff attached to sleeve using Single needle lock stitch machine.
Sixthly we make bottom hem using Single needle lock stitch machine.
Seventhly make button hole with button hole machine.
Eighthly button attached with hand.
1.4.7 Finishing: Hems are one of the final operations in assembling a dress shirt, as
all other seaming already must be completed. Dress shirts sometimes have long tails
and are finished with an edge finish (301 EFb). Length of shirttails may also be an
indication of quality. Longer lengths require more yardage; thus, budget
manufacturers may choose to reduce the amount of fabric to control costs.
1.4.8 Garment presentation: Classification selling puts more emphasis on
products, features, and performance than on presentation of a total fashion look.
Men's shirt lines feature a limited number of styles with depth of assortment in color,
sizes, and fabrications. Styling, price, fit, materials, quality of garment assembly,
packaging, and labeling differentiate dress shirts are packaged and often purchased
without consumers trying them on to check fit and quality. Consistency in sizing and
quality is expected.
15
Packaging is important to image formulation. A shirt that has supports for the collar,
tissue folded inside (perhaps printed with the designer's logo), strategic areas pinned,
and visible areas well pressed presents an image of quality and perhaps status.
Labels add shelf appeal and provide identification for consumers to associate certain
characteristics with a specific manufacturer or retailer. Customer loyalty important to
the success of a manufacturer of basic products, especially when the product is not
tried on before purchase.
2.0 PROCESS BREAKDOWN OF T-SHIRT

T- SHIRT SIZE CHART (IN INCH) FOR “L” (LARGE)

Full Length 15
Waist Length 17
Armscye Depth 10
Chest 40
½ Back 10
Neck size 15
Sleeve Length 9

16
Figure: Anatomy of a Men’s T-Shirt

17
Process
Process Description M/C Type
No.
Single Needle Lock Stitch
1 Care Level Attach
Machine
2 Front & Back Part Match By Hand
3 Shoulder Join 4 Thread Over Lock Machine
4 Neck Rib Measure and Cut By Hand
Single Needle Lock Stitch
5 Nose Neck Rib Tuck with Body
Machine
6 Nose Neck Rib Join 4 Thread Over Lock Machine
7 Neck Piping Flat Bed
Main Label Attaches with Corner Single Needle Lock Stitch
8
Fold Machine
9 Sleeve Hem Flat Lock Machine
10 Sleeve And Body Match By Hand
11 Sleeve Joint 4 Thread Over Lock Machine
12 Side Seam 4 Thread Over Lock Machine
Single Needle Lock Stitch
13 Sleeve Open & Close Tack
Machine
14 Body Hem Flat Lock Machine
15 Final Thread Cut & Sticker Remove By Hand

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 2.1 ANALYSIS OF A T - SHIRT

7 aspects of garment analysis are given below:

1. Product positioning strategy
2. Sizing and fit
3. Materials
4. Spreading and cutting
5. Assembly
6. Finishing
7. Presentation
2.1.1 Product positioning strategy: T-shirts are multifunctional garments worn
by all age groups as underwear and outerwear. T-shirts are simply structured garments
that consist of a front and back or body, sleeves, and neckline treatment; a few styles
have pockets T-shirts. are basic, staple garments in white and other solid colors. Many
styles are considered unisex in styling and sizing.
Plain T-shirts are often referred to as blanks for the imprint market. Printed T-shirts,
which appeal to both males and females, provide humor and identification and
association with specific groups, activities, ideas, or interests. T-shirts are widely used
as souvenirs of special personal experiences. They provide identity through screen-
printed or heat transfer applications of logos, lettering, and licensed designs.
T-shirts are available at a wide range of prices that may or may not be consistent with
the quality level. Underwear T-shirts have more consistency between price and
quality. Outerwear T-shirts vary widely in quality and price and sometimes rely more
on emotional appeal than intrinsic quality.
2.1.2 Sizing and fit: T shirts are produced in all size ranges. Infant and toddler
shirts are sized by month and weight. Youth and adult sizes are sized as small,
medium, large, extra-large, and so on. Stretch is inherent in circular knit fabrics,
allowing flexibility in fit and reducing the need for dimensional sizing.
T-shirt fit relates to length and circumference of a garment body, cut of sleeves, and
neckline shape and depth. Length is a factor in lit and quality. As more length is
provided, more fabric is required which increases costs.
Sleeve fit is often determined by styling. T-shirt bodies are designed for specific
sleeve styles such as basic set-in sleeves, raglan sleeves, or athletic jerseys that
incorporate yokes, wide shoulders, and loose-fitting sleeves. Set-in sleeves, which Tit

19
close to the body, require room for movement and arm expansion. A sleeve cut Loo
narrow may not provide enough ease under or around the arm.
Necklines of T-shirts should lie flat against the body regardless of styling. depth of
the neckband, or method of assembly. Neckbands of crewneck T-shirts have a circular
formation with a smaller circumference at the neck edge than the seam. During
application, neckbands are stretched slightly to fit neck edges. When neckbands are
not stretched during application, they tend to stand away from the body and gap
during wear.
2.1.3 Materials: Fabrics used for T-shirts are primarily 100% cotton or
cotton/polyester blends. All cotton is generally used in producing better quality
garments, although other fac tors such as yarn type, fabrication, and fabric finishes
also affect quality.
Filar length and alignment (combing) affect durability and appearance retention. Yarn
type, structure, and method of production are closely related to fabric quality and
performance. Fabric weight, which is affected by fiber content, yarn size, and
coarseness or fineness of the gauge, is directly related to cost and quality of T-shirt
fabrics.
Knit fabrics most commonly used for T-shirts are jerseys rib knits, and inter lock
ribs. Jerseys are the most widely used fabrication because of their versatility, low cost,
and comfort. Interlock ribs are used primarily for better quality, solid-color, cut and
sewn shirts with more fashion styling.
Trims used on T-shirts consist of neckbands, cuffs, bindings, screen-printed de signs,
embroidery, appliqués, striping’s, and so on; trims may be matching or contrasting
colors. T-shirt neckbands are used to finish necklines. 1x1 rib is used most often,
especially on medium and lightweight knit. Heavier weight, high-quality garments
occasionally have 2 x 2 rib neckbands, which have a heavier, coarser appearance.
Neckbands are cut from rib-knit piece goods or narrow tubes of specified width.
Other trims used on outerwear T-shirts are braids, stripes, and bindings. These trims
may be used to provide color accents, add special interest or fashion, and tie together
a contrasting color scheme. Trims such as these may be used across sleeves and
shoulders and down fronts, and so on.
Tape is sometimes used on back necklines and/or shoulder seams of both underwear
and outwear T-shirts to stabilize and enclose the seams and improve durability and
performance. Different types of treatment are used to satisfy several different
20
performance expectations and costs. Narrow twill tape or stable strips of shell fabric
can be sewn in shoulder seams to prevent stretching and breaking of the stitching line.
More than one thread type may be used in the manufacture of T-shirts, de pending on
the quality level. Seams of moderate and budget shirts are often stitched with white
thread, while topstitching is usually done with color-matched thread (core spun or
spun polyester) for all price levels. Cover stitches may be done with textured filament
used in the lower looper to provide more cover.
2.1.4 Spreading and Cutting: Tubular knit fabric, which is frequently used in
adult T-shirts, creates some challenges in preproduction that are different than
products being spread and cut from flat goods. Closed markers are usually used to cut
tubular goods to be able to utilize the full width of the fabric. Tubular goods may be
cut with an open marker but primarily for children's clothing. Fabric may be knife cut
or die cut.
2.1.5 Assembly: Edge treatments, whether bands or hems, are easiest to ap ply
while sleeves are flat. Bands may be applied as binding (BSB) or as superimposed
seams (SSA). Automated seaming allows sleeves to be carried by conveyor to the
sewing head for hemming or seaming. For tubular T-shirts, sleeves are seamed and
hemmed before setting.
Hems on T-shirts and other knit garments are frequently done with a 406 EFa, which
produces a finished, stretchy hem with a neat appearance. A narrow hem on a jersey
knit fabric is likely to curl when tension is applied to the edge of the garment. Stitch
tension should be loose and the stitches should not be visible on the right side. Hems
may be the first operation on a T-shirt or the last, depending on how the production
line is set up.
Shoulder seams are usually seamed with a 504 88a. Budget garments may only be
seamed, while better garments have the shoulders taped or elastic ap plied, which
builds in durability and shape retention. One or both shoulder seams may be closed
before the neckband is applied.
Neckline treatments on T-shirts may be applied as bound seams (BSb) or
superimposed seams (SSa). Many variations of each of these methods affect the
appearance, quality, and cost of shirts. The method used impacts the assembly
sequence. They may be used to finish necklines of crewnecks, scoops, tanks, and so
on. Bound seams are flat except were joined at the shoulder(s), and they provide a
neat topstitched appearance. Neckbands, when applied as bound seams, are strips of
21
rib knit fed off rolls through tensioning devices and folders. When neckbands are
applied and the shoulder seam(s) closed, the neck line is completed.
Neckbands may be applied separately to the neckline back and front or to the
neckline after one shoulder seam is closed Closure of the shoulder seam(s) after trim
is applied leaves exposed seam(s) at the neckline edge. This method is fast, minimizes
handling, and is widely used on budget and moderate shirts.
Superimposed neckline seams are often taped, cover stitched, or topstitched to
improve comfort, aesthetic appeal, and durability. Unfinished superimposed seams at
the neckline may not remain flat during wear or may stretch and not recover
More durable T-shirts are taped continuously along the back neckline and shoulder
seams to flatten the seams, maintain shape, and provide hanger appeal. Continuous
taping reinforces the junction of shoulder and neck line seams, which is subject to
high stress. Tapes may be applied with 406 SSf, SSag, or LSbn. Only back neckline
seams may be taped when neckbands are ap plied with both shoulder seams open.
This gives the appearance of a better-quality shirt, when only the back neck is
stabilized.
Label setting is often combined with neckline seaming. Most T-shirts have neckline
labels to provide information and shelf appeal, while some shirts have a second label
sewn to the outside lower front in a separate operation. This is intended to add fashion
appeal and differentiation to some types of shirts.
2.1.6 Finishing: Finishing operations may include pressing, washing or distressing,
screen printing, inspection, trimming, and packaging. If T-shirts are pressed, they are
circulated through a steam tunnel to remove wrinkles. This procedure is used only on
better shirts and those likely to be hung. The majority of T-shirts are inspected,
trimmed, and folded. Some are boarded (folded around a cardboard insert) and boxed
in dozens or half dozen; others are bagged. Finishing operations vary with the quality
level of the shirt, the performance expected, and the requirements of the
manufacturer.
2.1.7 Presentation: T-shirts are sold by a wide variety of retailers, from better
department and specialty stores to street vendors. Printing on the plastic cover may
point out the product's quality and merchandising features. Outerwear T-shirts,
particularly those with printed fronts or backs, are usually displayed on hangers.

22
 2.2 CONSTRUCTION
Once we receive the t-shirt pattern, analyze the garment and list down all detailing
(construction, workmanship, seam, fabric used, trims attached etc.). Estimate
consumption of fabric and trims per garment.
Then, we Source Fabrics and trims as per requirement.
After receiving fabrics and trims, check for quality and quantity of sourced items.
Fabric and trims need to be checked as per specification (quality standards).
Lay fabric on the table as per marker length. Cut layers at a time to save time in
cutting. Make marker on the top layer. Cut fabric as per pattern.
Check cut panels randomly for fabric defects and cutting is done according to the
pattern.
We check stitching quality during sewing and at the end of sewing and do correction
of defective garment found in the Garment.

2.2.1 A round neck t-shirt has 5 components

 Front panel
 Back panel
 2 Sleeves
 Neck rib
2.2.2 Sewing machine used in T-shirt making: The most common sewing
machines used for making t-shirts are these.
 Single needle lock stitch machine
 Overlock machine
 Flatlock sewing machine (Cylinder bed and flatbed flat lock)
2.3 ASSEMBLY

2.3.1 Shoulder Join: Join both shoulders using an overlock machine.

2.3.2 Neck rib join to neck: Fold the neck rib 2x2 and attach to the neck. While
attaching neck rib stretch both neck and rib. Attach neck rib using overlock machine
2.3.3 Sleeve Hem: Hem sleeve opening in the flat lock machine
2.3.4 Sleeve attach: Attach both sleeves at the armhole. An overlock machine is
used to attach sleeve.
2.3.5 Side seam: Join side seams and under arm using an overlock machine.

23
2.3.6 Bottom Hem: At last hem the t-shirt bottom using a 2-needle flat lock
machine.
3.0 PROCESS BREAKDOWN OF POLO-SHIRT

Figure: Anatomy of a Men’s Polo-Shirt

Process Process Description M/C Type Working Aid
no.
1 Fusing Upper Fly Fusing M/C -----
2 Fold Upper Fly Hand Job Iron
3 Upper Fly Edge O/L 3 thread O/L -----
4 Sew Center Placket Automatic M/C -----
5 Joint Upper Fly to Front S/N/L/S M/C -----
6 Fusing Under Fly Fusing M/C -----
7 Fold Under Fly Hand Job -----
8 Under Fly edge O/L 3 thread O/L -----
9 Joint Under Fly to front S/N/L/S M/C -----
10 Tum and Form Front Placket Hand Job Iron Template
11 Sew Sleeve Hem Top and bottom Folder
cover
12 Crease Brand Label Hand Job Iron
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 13 Joint Size label to Brand label S/N/L/S M/C CR 1/16"
14 Joint Shoulder with Tape 4 thread O/L -----
15 Cut shoulder tape Hand Job Scissor/ table
16 Joint Collar with tape 3 thread O/L -----
17 Attach brand label to neck S/N/L/S M/C CR 1/16"
18 Turn front fly and Cut front fly Hand Job Scissor/ table
Bottom
19 Counter stitch to Collar S/N/L/S M/C NGF
20 Counter stitch to Upper fly S/N/L/S M/C NGF
21 Top stitch upper fly S/N/L/S M/C Scissor/ table
22 Counter stitch under Fly S/N/L/S M/C NGF
23 Top stitch under fly S/N/L/S M/C CR 1/16"
24 Fasten Fly bottom S/N/L/S M/C NGF
25 Top stitch Fly bottom S/N/L/S M/C CR 1/16"
26 Sew fly bottom 4 thread O/L -----
27 Joint Side seam 4 thread O/L -----
28 Bottom hemming Top and bottom -----
cover
29 Turn body Hand Job Pointer/Table
30 Mark Button Hole position to fly Hand Job Pencil/ Template
31 Button hole Button Hole -----
M/C
32 Mark button attach Hand Job Pencil/ Template
33 Attach button Button Attach -----
M/C

3.1 ANALYSIS

3.1.1 Evolution of Modern Polo Fabrics:

Twenty years ago, basically had to pick between a polo in 100% cotton or a
cotton/polyester fabric. Choosing the right polo fabric became tougher with the
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introduction of 100% polyester performance fabrics. Many people quickly switched to
these polos because of their performance features. Some loved the new fabric while
others missed the feel of cotton. As a result, blend and 100% cotton styles with
performance features have been developed. Now there are many fabrics with different
performance features to suit everyone's needs.

3.1.2 The Logo

Logo Placement - Most polo shirts are embroidered with a left chest logo but a logo
can be placed on the right side. Right side placement is often used when there is a
pocket on the left side although the logo can be embroidered above the pocket.
Individual names can be located on the right side or underneath a logo if there is
room. Additional logos can be placed on either sleeve or below the collar on the back
with the most common placement being on the right side to balance a left chest logo.
3.1.3 Designer Labels: These sport shirts often have their own designer logo
embroidered on the garment. Usually, this logo is subtle but not always so check
before ordering to be certain logo won't compete with the designer's logo.
3.1.4 Polo Shirt Care: Custom embroidered polo shirts will stay looking their best
if they are turned inside out before washing, washed in cold water and not over-dried
in a hot dryer. If need a polo shirt that can be washed and dried easily then a 100%
moisture-wicking shirt many be best option.
Anatomy of a Polo
3.1.5 The Placket - The placket is the opening between the sides of the collar
where the buttons are located. The placket is basically the same on most men's polo
shirts. It usually has two to three buttons and can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned.
Plackets on lady’s golf shirts can vary greatly, ranging from a reversed version of the
standard men's style or an elongated version with smaller buttons to a combination V-
neck button polo. Some polo shirts have trim detail on the placket. Placket accents can
include grosgrain ribbon, an angled bottom seam, piping or a contrasting fabric color.
Buttons can also add a distinct look to a shirt. Buttons can range from white pearlized
and dyed-to-match buttons to specialty buttons. Snaps can be used instead on buttons
to create a more fashion-forward look.
3.1.6 The Collar - Most polos have a separate piece of fabric that forms the collar.
Often this fabric is a ribbed knit. Some styles have a "self-fabric" collar which means
that the fabric is the same as the fabric that forms the body of the shirt.
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3.1.7 The Body - Most polo shirts have a relaxed fit that isn't too contoured or
tight. Most styles are seamed with side seams although some less expensive shirts
don't have side seams. These styles are said to have a "tubular" construction. Some
styles have side vents which means they are split approximately two inches up from
the bottom hem. This allows the shirt to be tucked in more easily. Other styles have an
extended tail in the back to make it easier to remain tucked in. Some newer polo
styles have a "slim" cut which is especially appealing to younger men who don't want
to wear a "baggy" shirt. Other polo styles have a small amount of spandex, often 5%,
added to the fabric to help maintain the shape of the shirt while allowing for freedom
of movement.
3.1.8 The Sleeves - Most sleeves are the standard, "set-in" style but some styles
have a raglan or triangular shape at the top. This triangular seaming can allow for
easier arm movement so this type of cut is often seen in shirts designed for sports
teams. The bottom of the sleeve is finished with either a rib knit fabric or is hemmed.
Men with larger arms often prefer hemmed (open end) sleeves because rib knit
sleeves can feel tight.
3.1.9 The Fabric - Polo shirt fabrics range from basic cotton, ring spun, and pima
cotton to cotton polyester blends and 100% moisture-wicking polyester. Generally
speaking, cotton polo shirts are cooler than blend fabrics but are more likely to shrink.
Cotton/poly blend shirts will be more fade, wrinkle and shrink-resistant. Performance
fabric polos offer special benefits such as moisture-wicking and wrinkle-resistant
features and are great for athletic use and wearing in hot weather and arid conditions.
UV protection shirts are good for protecting against the sun's harmful rays. Spot
resistant shirts are treated with a fabric protector to help resist stains. These styles are
perfect for restaurant workers.
3.1.10 The Fit - Not all custom polo shirts have the same fit although most shirts
are "classically sized" and run true to size. Size measurements, including chest, hem
and sleeve lengths, are available for most garments. It can be helpful to view online
diagrams that show the cut of the shirt when trying to determine how a style fits. Polo
shirts modeled on teens and young adults will have a closer, trimmer fit. Golf shirts
containing spandex may cling to the body but will allow more freedom of movement.
When choosing sizes remember that a shirt containing more cotton such as a 100%
cotton polo will shrink more than a polo made from a cotton/polyester blend. Want

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more information on how a polo shirt should fit? Check out Gentleman's Gazette's
How a Men's Polo Shirt Should Fit.
3.1.11 The Sizing - One of the recent developments in the garment industry is the
addition of more sizes. Many custom embroidered polo shirts are now available up to
size 6X for men, 4X for women, men's tall, young women's junior and young men's
slim fit. Some shirts also have a youth companion style.
3.1.12 Trim Details - Many polo shirts have a trim accent color on the collar,
sleeves or placket. Although too much color detailing can distract from logo, a
contrasting color on the collar that repeats a color in logo can emphasize logo.
Although not all trim colors will work with every logo, wearing golf shirts with an
accent color can give design a unique look and make logo pop!

3.2 CONSTRUCTION

3.2.1 Materials and Methods

A polo-shirt, also known as a golf shirt and tennis shirt, is a form of shirt with a
collar, a placket with typically two or three buttons, and an optional pocket. Polo-
shirts are usually made of knitted cloth (rather than woven cloth), usually piqué
cotton or, less commonly, silk, merino wool, or synthetic fibers. A dress-length

version of the shirt is called a polo dress.

• Pattern paper
• Measuring Tape
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Eraser
• Curve Ruler

3.2.2 Methods
Prepare the fabric booking: After approval of fit sample and received the final PO
sheet from buyer, pattern/cutting section will make a correct pattern set of all the
sizes. In middle class factory normally, merchandiser do the consumption with the
help of cutting master after placed the pattern of on marker paper.

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Prepare the accessories booking: In same time of the fabric merchandiser also
should booked the accessories. Merchandiser should ensure that, the store will
receive all the sewing accessories before in house of the fabric. Sewing accessories
means -
Sewing thread, main/size label, care label, tape etc.
Quality check of fabric: After receive the fabric from dyeing the fabric Q.C
department will check the color shade, GSM, diameter, shrinkage, twisting etc. and
acknowledged the merchandiser accordingly. The fabric Q.C team will also check
the count the collar & check the others quality.
because normally they do the dyeing in
Fabric Cutting: After receive the green signal from fabric QC team and
merchandiser, cutting section will be start trial cutting at first. At the same time
cutting section will check the consumption again in real fabric. They will confirm to
the merchandiser that how they can be able to cut from the received fabric. It is very
important because some
time we need extra fabric due to the increased of fabric GSM.
Size set and PP sample: After received the bulk fabric production section will make
size set sample and check the measurement and shrinkage of fabric. After checking
the size set sample, they will adjust the pattern and will be make a pre-production
sample for buyer approval. During the size set sample production department will
setup the line layout.
3.2.3 Sewing Section: Merchandiser should sit for a PP meeting with production
department with the approved trim card, PP sample, accessories in house report
production department should discuss.
1. Placket Making: Production supervisor will make the placket by the help of
sewing operator. At first, they will fuse the fabric with interlining in fusing
machine. After that, they will cut the fabric by use of the pattern of placket. After
that, they will mark the placket fabric and stitch with a plain machine.
2. Pocket Joint: In between of the placket making we will attach the pocket with
body by use of a plain machine. Regarding the pocket please be careful about
placement of pocket.
3. Placket Make and Joint: After making the placket and joint the pocket with
body, the body has gone to next plain machine operator to attached the placket
with body. Here normally we used two plain machines.
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4. Shoulder Joint: After the placket joint, we join the shoulder (front and back
part) by use of an over lock machine.
5. Shoulder Top Stitch: After shoulder joint, we put a top stitch over the shoulder
by use of another plain machine.
6. Collar tack & Joint: After the shoulder top stitch at first, we tack the collar by
use a plain machine then we join the collar with body by use of an over lock
machine.
7. Back tape joint: After collar joint, we join the back tape in the flat lock machine
by used of folder.
8. Placket Top stitch: After back tap joint, we put placket top stitch by use two
plain machines.
9. Placket Box: After the top stitch of placket, we make the placket box by use of
plain machine.
10. Main/size label attachment: After the placket box making, we attached the
main/size label inside the back tape by use of plain machine.
11. Sleeve rolling/ sleeve hem: In the mean time we roll or hem the sleeve with flat
lock machine.
12. Sleeve joint: Now we will join the sleeve with body by use of over lock machine.
13. Side seam joint: After these operations we join the both side seam of body and
sleeve by use of over lock machine. We also attached the care label in between
this operation.
14. Bottom hem: After the side seam joint, we hem the bottom by use of a flat lock
machine.
15. Sleeve (opening) Tack: after this process we put a tack in sleeve opening.
16. Button Hole: Then we make hole on the placket by use of button whole
machine. In this regard, button hole will be little bit smaller than the button
diameter. Also top button hole will be horizontal whereas the others button hole
will be vertical. However, we should confirm it with our buyer.
17. Button Stitch: After button hole, we will be attached the button with placket by
use of button stitch machine.

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