Lec15 18 Shedding

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27-02-2020

WEAVING

WEAVING
Weaving is the most popular method of fabric
manufacturing and is generally done by interlacing
two orthogonal sets of yarns – warp (or end) and
weft (or pick) – in a regular and recurring pattern.

Commonly in shirts, trousers, denim, curtains, bedsheets, etc

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Weaving mechanism
Primary motions
1. Shedding
2. Picking
3. Beat up

Secondary motions
1. Take up
2. Let off

Auxiliary motions
1. Warp stop
2. Weft stop
3. Warp protector

Weaving: Shedding

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Shedding
Shedding is the process by which the warp
sheet is divided into two groups so that a
clear passage is created for the weft yarn to
pass through it.

Shedding
One group of yarns either
moves in the upward
direction or stays in the
up position, thus forming
the top shed line.

Another group of yarns


either moves in the
downward direction or
stays in the down
position, thus forming the
bottom shed line.

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Shedding
Warp yarns are not controlled individually during the
shedding operation (except Jacquard shedding)
Healds are used to control a large number of warp
yarns.
The heald frame carries a large number of metallic
wires known as heald wires.

Shedding
Each heald wire has a hole, called heald eye, at the
middle of its length.
The warp yarn actually passes through the heald eye.
Therefore, as the heald moves, all the warp yarns
which are controlled by that heald also move.

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Shedding
The upward and downward movements of healds are
controlled either by cam or by dobby shedding
mechanisms and associated heald reversing
mechanism.

The movement of the healds is not continuous.

After reaching the topmost or lowest positions, the


healds, in general, remain stationary for some
duration. This known as ‘dwell’.

In general, the shed changes after every pick, that is


the insertion of weft.

Transmission of motions in loom

The revolution per


minute (r.p.m.) of the
crank shaft is equal
with the loom speed
(number of picks
inserted per minute or
picks/minute).

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Transmission of motions in loom

The primary motions, their frequency and controlling loom


shaft for plain weave and 3×1 twill weave are given.

Cam Shedding Systems


Two shedding cams controlling two healds through the treadle
levers.

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Cam Shedding Systems

For plain woven


fabrics, two shedding
cams are positioned at
180° phase difference.

Therefore, when one


cam pushes the
treadle bowl in the
downward direction,
the other cam
accommodate the
upward movement of
the other treadle bowl.

Cam Shedding Systems:Negative cams

Negative cams can


control only the one
part (50%) of the
movement of the
healds (downward
movement).

The upward
movement is ensured
by the roller or spring
reversing mechanism.

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Cam Shedding Systems:Positive cams


Positive cams control the upward and downward
movement of the healds.

Grooved cams or matched cams are generally used


as positive cams

Positive Cam Shedding


Two types of system are available which ensures
controlled lifting and lowering of healds.

i. Grooved cam

ii. Matched cam

No heald reversing motion is required

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Grooved cam
When the cam rotates, the bowl moves upwards and
downwards and this movement is translated into sidewise
movement of lower end of tappet lever.

The heald is also raised and lowered by using levers and link
systems.

Matched Cam
When the shaded follower
is touching the minimum
radius of the corresponding
cam, the un-shaded
follower is touching the
maximum radius of the
corresponding cam.

This will cause the lifting of


the heald through the
connections.

The situation will be


reversed when the cam
shaft will rotate by 90°.

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Design of Shedding Cams

The shedding cam has to be designed in accordance


with the interlacement pattern (plain, twill, satin etc).

The design of the shedding cam influences following


things:

Dwell time of shed

Movement pattern of heald during rise and fall

Types of Heald Movement

Depending on the types of heald movement, sheds


can be classified under four categories.

i. Bottom closed shed

ii. Semi open shed

iii. Centre closed shed

iv. Open shed

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Bottom Closed Shed


All ends come to their lowest position after every pick to close
the shed.

Even if the end is supposed to be in up position in two


consecutive picks, the end will come to the bottom position

Unnecessary movements and thus wasted energy.

Example: Single lift jacquard produces bottom closed shed.

Figure. Heald movement pattern for 3 up 2 down twill

Centre Closed Shed


Shed closes at the centre (warp line) after every pick.

If the end has to be in up (or down) position in two


consecutive picks, it will come to the middle position
of shed depth between the two picks.

The amount of wasted movement is relatively low than


bottom closed shed

Figure. Heald movement pattern for 3 up 2 down twill

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Semi Open Shed


All ends come to their middle level position (warp line)
after every pick to close the shed.

However, if one end has to be in down position in two


consecutive picks, it does not move at all between picks.

Lower wasted movement

Example: Double acting jacquard produces semi open


shed.

Figure. Heald movement pattern for 3 up 2 down twill

Open Shed
Ideal kind of shed and it minimises the wasted
movements of the ends (or healds).

If the end has to be in up or down position in two


consecutive picks, then it remains stationary between
two picks.

Example: Keighley dobby

Figure. Heald movement pattern for 3 up 2 down twill

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Indistinct (unclear) Shed


If the extent of vertical
movement of the healds during
shedding is same then indistinct
or unclear shed is produced

Position of the top shed line is


different for different healds.

Shuttle get lower amount of


space through which it has to
travel.

So, the possibility of abrasion


and collision between shuttle
and shed line is higher.

Distinct (clear) Shed


Position of top shed line at
front part of shed is same
irrespective of healds.

This type of shed formed when


extent of vertical movement of
healds during shedding is
changed.

The first heald nearer to cloth


fell, has minimum vertical
movement and last heald has
maximum vertical movement.

The shuttle gets more space to


travel

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Lift (throw) of the Cam


Higher vertical movement is required for the back
heald to form distinct shed.

However, effective length of the treadle lever is


shorter for the back heald.

If the lift or throw of the cams controlling the back


and front heald is same, higher vertical movement
will occur for the front heald (opposite to actual
requirement)

To overcome this problem, cam controlling the back


heald possesses higher lift as compared the cam
controlling the front heald.

Lift (throw) of the Cam

x is the distance between the


fulcrum point of treadle levers and
centre of treadle bowl.
y is the distance between the
centre of treadle bowl and tip of
the treadle lever tied with the back
heald.
b is the distance between the
front and back heald.
a is the distance between cloth
fell and front heald.
h1 and h2 are the lifts of the
front and back healds
respectively.

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The lift of a heald is equal to the movement of the tip of the


corresponding treadle lever.
Now, applying the concept of similar triangles, we can write

Therefore, the value of L2 is significantly greater than that of L1.


This implies that the lift of the cam controlling the back heald is significantly
greater than that of cam controlling the front heald.

Diameter of the reversing rollers

The shaft carrying the reversing rollers move


clockwise and anti-clockwise to control the heald
movement.

The angular movement of the shaft during


shedding is constant.

However, it has to ensure that the back heald


gets higher vertical movement than the front heald
so that distinct shed is produced.

This is attained by using two reversing rollers


with different diameters.

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Diameter of the reversing rollers


The roller with bigger diameter is connected with the back
heald and vice versa.

As the linear movement of reversing roller (angular


movement × radius) is equal to the vertical movement of the
corresponding heald,

Numerical Problem

Calculate the throw (lift) of the cam controlling the back heald
from the following particulars:

Throw (lift) of the cam for the front heald = 8 cm


The distance between the front and back heald = 4 cm
The distance between the fulcrum and bowl on the treadle =
20 cm
The distance between the bowl and the fastening point of the
back heald = 20 cm
Diameter of small reversing roller = 5 cm
Diameter of large reversing roller = 6 cm

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Numerical Problem

Numerical Problem

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Geometry of Shed

The main shed parameters are as follows:

• L 1: length of the front shed


• L2: length of the back shed
• H : shed height

Geometry of Shed
As the healds move away from the warp line, the
warp takes a longer path.

Thus, warp yarns are extended which has to be


compensated either by the extensibility of the warp
or by the regulation of the yarn delivery system.

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Geometry of Shed
If the length of the back shed increased, then yarn
extension is reduced (preferred for weaving delicate
yarns like silk)

However, shorter back shed creates clearer shed


(preferred for weaving coarser and hairy yarns)

Calculation of warp strain during shedding

A simplified mathematical model has been


presented to relate the warp strain with the shed
parameters.

Let us consider h as half of the shed height.

Therefore, H = 2h

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Calculation of warp strain during shedding

Calculation of warp strain during shedding

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Calculation of warp strain during shedding

 Warp strain increases with increase in shed height

 Warp strain reduces with increase in shed length

 Warp strain reduces as shed becomes symmetric (value


of i increases)

Numerical Problem
Determine the ratio of strain created in the warp threads during
shedding by the front heald and back heald if the total shed
length (distance between the cloth fell and back rest) is 120
cm, front shed length for the front heald is 20 cm, distance
between the front and back heald is 4 cm, diameters of
reversing rollers are 5 cm and 6 cm.

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Numerical Problem

Timing of Shedding
One pick is equivalent to one complete rotation of the
crank shaft.

The timing of the various loom operations are indicated


corresponding to the angular position of the crank shaft

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Timing of Shedding
At 0°, the reed reaches the forward most position and
performs the beat up.

On the other hand, at 180°, the reed moves to the


backward most position.

The sley (and reed) moves forward and backward


continuously during the entire 360°.

However, the healds do not move continuously.

When the shed is completely open, the healds remain


stationary for certain time so that shuttle can pass through
the shed without any interference. This is called the ‘dwell'
period of shed.

Loom Timing
Loom timing is defined as relative chronological
sequences of various primary and secondary
motions are expressed in terms of angular position
of crank.

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Loom Timing
Shedding (for early
shedding)

30° : Shed is fully open

30° -150° : Heald dwell


(shed remains fully open)

150° -270° : Shed closes

270° : Shed closed or


shed level

270° -30° : Shed opens


again (in opposite
direction)

Loom Timing
Shedding (for late
shedding)

120° : Shed is fully open

120° -240° : Heald dwell


(shed remains fully open)

240° -360° : Shed closes

360° : Shed closed or shed


level

360° -120° : Shed opens The operations have been delayed by


again (in opposite direction) 90o in case of late shedding.

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Loom Timing
Picking and Checking

80°-110°:Picking stick
operates

105°-110°:Shuttle enters
in the shed

240°-250° : Shuttle leaves


the shed

270° : Shuttle strikes the


swell in the shuttle box

300° : Shuttle comes to


rest

Loom Timing
Sley Motion

0°: Beat-up takes place


and sley occupies its
forward most position

180°: Sley occupies its


backward most position

0°-180°: Sley moves


backward

180°-360°: Sley moves


forward

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Loom Timing
Take-Up

0° -10° : Take-up (intermittent type)

Early Shedding
The shuttle enters and
leaves the shed at around
110° and 240° respectively.
The shed is levelled (closed)
at 270° .

Then it starts to open as


the two healds starts to move
in opposite directions. The
shed is fully open at 30°.

From 30° to 150° , the


healds are stationary.
Therefore, the shed is fully
open and at dwell during this
period.

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Early Shedding
When the shuttle enters the shed (110°), more than half of the
dwell period is over. When the shuttle leaves the shed (240°),
the shed is about to close.

Therefore, there is high probability that the shuttle will abrade


the warp sheet which is not desirable specially for the delicate
warp yarns.

However, this type of timing is advantageous for weaving


heavy cloth. Because, during beat up (0°), the shed is crossed.

Therefore, the newly inserted pick will be trapped by the


crossed warp yarns. As a result, the pick will not be able to
move away from the cloth fell ever after the reed recedes.

This facilitates attaining higher picks per inch which is


required for heavy fabric.

Late Shedding
Timing of shedding is delayed

The shed is levelled (closed) at


0°.

Then it starts to open as the two


healds move in opposite directions.
The shed is fully open at 120° .

From 120° to 240°, the healds are


stationary. Therefore, the shed is
fully open and at dwell during this
period.

The timing of shuttle flight (110-


240°) almost coincides with the
dwell time.

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Late Shedding
The problem of abrasion
between warp and shuttle can
be minimised by adopting late
shedding
The beat up occurs when the
shed is levelled and healds are
yet to cross each other.
Therefore, this timing is not
favourable for weaving heavy
fabrics.
However, this kind of timing is
favourable for weaving delicate
warp yarns and the possibility
of abrasion with the shuttle is
very low.

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Effect of Shed Timing and Backrest Position


The early shedding coupled with raised position of the
backrest results higher pick density in the woven fabric.

Figure shows the normal and raised position of the backrest.

Effect of Shed Timing and Backrest Position


When the backrest is at normal position, the top and bottom
sheds are symmetrical with respect to the line CN which
represents the warp line when the shed is levelled.

In this case, the length of two shed lines CUN and CDN are
equal which signifies that the tension in both the sheds (top and
bottom) is equal.

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Effect of Shed Timing and Backrest Position


However, when the backrest is raised from its normal position,
the length of shed lines become unequal.

This is clearly visible from the fact that length of the top shed
line CUR is smaller than the bottom shed line CDR. Thus the
tension in the top shed line will be lower than that of bottom
shed line.

Effect of Shed Timing and Backrest Position


In case of early shedding, the shed will be levelled at 270°.

At beat up (360° ), the shed is fully crossed i.e. the top shed
line of the last pick has now formed bottom shed line and vice
versa.

Thus the higher tension prevailing in the bottom shed ends


will force the newly inserted weft (circle) in the downward
direction from the cloth plane as shown in Figure.

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Effect of Shed Timing and Backrest Position


This will be facilitated by the greater curvature attained by the
top shed ends which are now under low tension.

The previous pick (the second circle from the right) will be
forced in the upward direction with respect to cloth plane but by
a lesser magnitude.

This process will repeat after the insertion of each and every
pick and as a consequence higher pick density in the fabric will
result.

Effect of Shed Timing and Backrest Position


As the beat up is performed at crossed shed, the newly
inserted weft remains tightly meshed between the ends as the
reed pushes the former towards the cloth fell against the yarn
to yarn frictional and bending resistances (Figure).

Once the beating is completed and sley starts its movement


towards the back centre of the loom, newly inserted pick
cannot spring back away from the cloth fell as it is trapped in
the crossed shed.

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Bending Factor
Bending factor is defined as the ratio of depth of shed
in front of shuttle ( s ) and the actual height of the
shuttle ( h )

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Bending Factor
If it is greater than 1, then there will not be any
abrasion between warp sheets and the shuttle.

Conversely, if it is much lower than 1, then severe


abrasion will take place between warp sheets and
shuttle….high warp breakage rate

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Bending Factor
The bending factor changes continuously as it is
influenced by the following two factors.

• Movement of the healds

• Movement of the sley

The bending factor will reduce as the top shed line


will move in the downward direction causing reduction
in the value of s and vice versa.

Besides, as the reed moves towards the cloth fell, the


bending factor reduces due to reduction in s.

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Bending Factor
For late shedding (where
the shed levels at 0), dwell
occurs between 120°-
240°. Therefore, during
this period, the healds are
stationary. So, the depth of
shed in front of the shuttle
varies only due to the sley
movement.

After 240°, the shed starts


to close and sley is still
moving forward. Both the
factors synergistically
reduce the depth of shed
at a faster rate.

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Bending Factor
For early shedding (where the
shed levels at 270°), dwell
occurs between 30° -150°.

After 150°, shed starts to


close. But, sley moves
backwards till 180°. Therefore,
between 150°-180°, two
factors are countering each
other in influencing bending
factor.

After 180°, sley starts to move


forward and shed is still closing
(till 270°). Therefore, the shed
depth reduces very fast after
180°.
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Bending Factor

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Heald Staggering

For weaving heavy density fabrics, when the healds


are crossing each other, enormous amount of yarn
to yarn friction will be created leading to end
breakage.

This can be prevented by heald staggering which


ensures that all the ends (or healds) are not
crossing each other at the same time.

Heald staggering is done to reduce the abrasion


between the warp yarns when the healds are
crossing each other.

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Heald Staggering
The two cams of same group can be arranged in such
a way that there is some phase difference (say 5-10°)
between them

The other two cams, belonging to the other group, are


at 180° phase difference with respect to the two cams
of the first group

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Heald Staggering
This ensures that even when two healds are rising,
they do not reach the middle of shed depth at the
same time

Therefore, the number of ends which cross each


other at a moment is reduced and thus the abrasion
between the warp yarns is reduced considerably.

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Design of Shedding Cams

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Design of Shedding Cams


The following parameters decide the design of shedding cam.

Weave design of the fabric

Minimum distance between cam and follower

Lift of cam (difference between maximum and minimum


radius of the cam)

Diameter of follower

Dwell of cam (duration of the two dwells)

Duration of the rise and fall

Character of movement (linear, SHM etc.)

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Design of Shedding Cams

Number of shedding cams (with the exception of skip


draft) is equal to the number of healds.

The number of healds is equal to the number of ends


in the repeat of the design.

Therefore, the number of ends in the repeat of the


design determines the number of shedding cams
required

Eg. Plain weave requires 2 shedding cams, 3/1 twill


weave requires 4 cams , and so on.

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Design of Shedding Cams


Now, one revolution of shedding cam implies ‘n’
number of picks, where ‘n’ is the number of picks in
the repeat of the design.

Because, after ‘n’ number of picks, a particular heald


has to come back to the same position.

Therefore, the segment of the cam available for one


pick is dependent on the number of picks in the
repeat of the design.

Thus, the number of picks in the repeat of the design


determines the design of the shedding cams .

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Example 1

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Design of Linear Shedding Cams

Example 1: Design a shedding cam for plain woven


fabric using the following particulars:

Minimum distance between cam and follower centres


(d): 4 units
Lift (l): 6 units
Diameter of follower (f): 2 units
Dwell period: 2/3 of a pick
Movement pattern during rise and fall: Linear

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Design of Linear Shedding Cams


Generally the duration of dwell is considered to be
1/3 of a pick.

However, for weaving delicate yarns, larger dwell


can be used to prevent the abrasion between the
shuttle and the warp (2/3 in present situation)

The linear rise (or fall) implies that the movement of


the follower in the vertical direction per unit time (per
degree of cam rotation) is constant.

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Design of Linear Shedding Cams


As it is plain weave, the 360° rotation of bottom shaft or
shedding cam will correspond to two picks. Therefore, one pick
is equivalent to 180° rotation of the cam.

Each of the two dwells will be spanning over 2/3 ×180° =120°.

Therefore, the span for rise (and fall) will be 60°.

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Step 1
Draw a circle
having its centre
at O and radius
OA of 4 units (cm
or inch).

80

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Step 2
Add d and l (4
+6=10). Then
draw another
concentric circle
having radius of
OB (10 units).

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Step 3
Divide the circle in
four segments of
60°, 120°, 60° and
120°, for rise, dwell
1, fall and dwell 2
respectively. Here
∠COB = ∠DOE =
60°.

82

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile


Step 4
Divide ∠COB in six
equal parts by the radii
OF, OG, OH, OI and
OJ. Similarly, ∠DOE is
divided in six equal
parts by radii OK, OL,
OM, ON and OP.
Therefore angles COF,
FOG, GOH, HOI, IOJ
and JOB are all equal
to 10° each. Similarly
angles EOK, KOL,
LOM, MON, NOP and
POD are all equal to
10° each.

83

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

As the span of the rise and fall (60° for each) has
been divided into six equal parts i.e. 10° each, the
distance between the centres of cam and follower
would increase by 1/6 × 6 unit = 1 unit after each
10° rotation of the cam during the rise.

84

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile


Step 5
Five arcs are drawn
having centre at O and
radius of 5 (4+1), 6
(5+1), 7 (6+1), 8 (7+1),
9 (8+1) units. The arc
having radius of 5 units
will cut radii OF and OK
at points Q2 and R2
respectively. The arc
having radius of 6 units
will cut radii OG and OL
at points Q3 and R3
respectively.

85

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Step 6
Draw small circles
having diameter of 2
units, representing
the follower,
considering Q1, Q2,
…., Q6 and B as
centres. Also draw
small circles, having
diameter of 2 units,
considering R1, R2,
…, R6 and D as
centres.
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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile


Step 7
Join the inner surfaces
of these 14 circles with
smooth curved line to
get the profile of the
cam.
Segment DOB (120°)
causes dwell 1 of the
heald at lower position.
The segment EOC
(120°) causes the dwell
2 of the heald at the
raised position.

87

Example 2

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Example 2: Design a shedding cam for 2/1 twill fabric


using the following particulars:

Minimum distance between cam and follower centres


(d) : 4 units
Lift (l): 6 units
Diameter of follower (f): 2 units
Dwell period: 1/3 of a pick
Movement pattern during rise and fall: Linear

89

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

As it is 2/1 twill weave, the 360° rotation of the cam


shaft or cam will correspond to three picks.
Therefore, one pick is equivalent to 120° rotation of
the cam.

The two dwells, in this case, will not be equal. When


the heald remains at the raised position, two picks
are inserted. When the heald remains at the bottom
position, one pick is inserted.

Therefore, the dwell of heald at raised position will be


longer than the dwell of heald at lowered position.

90

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

The shorter dwell (in lowered position) will be


spanning over 1/3 ×120° = 40°.

Therefore, the duration of dwell of the heald in raised


position will be = duration for one pick + duration of
short dwell = 120°+ 40°= 160°.

Two dwells have now consumed 200° and the


remaining 160° will be equally shared between rise
and fall. Therefore, the span for rise and fall will be
80° for each.

91

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

92

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Step 1
Draw a circle
having its centre at
O and radius OA of
4 units (cm or
inch).

93

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Step 2
Add d and l (4 +
6 = 10). Then
draw another
concentric circle
having radius of
OB (10 units).

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Step 3
Divide the circle in
four segments of
80°, 40°, 80° and
160° for rise, dwell
1, fall and dwell 2
respectively.

95

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile


Step 4
Segment COE is
divided into four equal
parts by the radii OK,
OJ and OI. Similarly,
segment BOD is divided
into four equal parts by
radii OF, OG and OH.

Therefore angles EOI,


IOJ, JOK and COK are
all equal to 20°.
Similarly angles BOH,
HOG, GOF and DOF
are all equal to 20°.

96

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile

Total lift of the follower is 6 units.

As the span of the rise and fall (80° each) has been
divided into four equal parts i.e. 20° each, the
distance between the centres of cam and follower
would increase by ¼ × 6 unit = 1.5 unit after each
20° rotation of the cam during the rise.

During the fall it will be just opposite.

97

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile


Step 5
Three arcs were drawn
having centre at O and
radius of 5.5 (4+1.5), 7.0
(5.5 +1.5) and 8.5
(7.0+1.5) units. The arc
having radius 5.5 units
will cut radii OH and OK
at points Q1 and R2
respectively. The arc
having radius 7.0 units
will cut radii OG and OJ
at points Q2 and R3
respectively.

98

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Steps for drawing Linear cam profile


Step 6
Small circles having
diameter of 2 units,
representing the
follower, are drawn
considering R1, R2,
R3, R4 and E as
centres. Small circles,
having diameter of 2
units, are also drawn
considering A, Q1,
Q2, Q3 and D as
centres.
99

Steps for drawing Linear cam profile


Step 7
The inner surfaces of
these 10 circles are
joined with smooth
curved line to get the
profile of the cam.
The segment DOE
(40°) causes dwell 1
of the heald at lower
position of the shed.
The segment BOC
(160°) causes the
dwell 2 of the heald at
the raised position.
100

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Design of SHM Cam


Example 3: Design a shedding cam for plain
weave using the following particulars.

Minimum distance between cam and follower


centres (d) : 3 units
Lift (l): 6 units
Diameter of follower (f): 2 units
Dwell period: 1/3 of a pick
Movement pattern during rise and fall: Simple
harmonic motion (SHM)

101

Design of SHM Cam


The follower will rise (or fall) following simple
harmonic motion which implies that the movement of
the follower per unit time (per degree of cam
rotation) will not be constant as it happens in case of
linear movement pattern.

As it is plain weave, the 360° rotation of the bottom


shaft or shedding cam will correspond to two picks.
Therefore, one pick is equivalent to 180° rotation of
the cam. Each of the two dwells will be spanning
over 1/3 ×180° = 60°.

Therefore, the span for rise (and fall) will be 120°


each.

102

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Design of SHM Cam


The rise and fall of the follower in SHM has been shown with
bold line.

The broken line represents the linear movement pattern

103

Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile

Step 1
Draw a circle
having its centre
at O and radius
(OA) of 3 units
(cm or inch)

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Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile

Step 2
Add d and l (3 +
6 = 9). Then
draw another
concentric circle
having radius
(OB) of 9 units.

105

Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile


Step 3

Divide the circle in four


segments of 120°, 60°,
120° and 60° for rise,
dwell 1, fall and dwell 2
respectively.

Here ∠COE = ∠BOD =


120° (for the rise and
fall of follower).

Segments BOC and


DOE correspond to the
dwells at lowered and
raised position of heald

106

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Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile

Step 4

Divide ∠COE into


six equal parts by
the radii OQ1, OR1,
OS1, OT1 and OU1.

Similarly, divide
∠BOD is divided
into six equal parts
by radii OQ2, OR2,
OS2, OT2 and OU2.

107

Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile


Total lift of the follower is 6 units. This is indicated by
the distance FC.

This implies that when the cam rotates by 120°, the


follower will descend (or rise) by 6 unit following
SHM.

In case of SHM, a generating point is having a


circular motion with constant angular velocity on the
circle of reference.

If perpendicular lines are drawn from the generating


point on the diameter of the circle of reference, then
the locus of that point follows SHM.

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Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile


Step 5

Hence, draw one


semicircle considering
CF as the diameter.

Divide this semicircle in


six equal segments.
Therefore, angles CGH1,
H1GH2, H2GH3, H3GH4,
H4GH5 and H5GF are all
equal to 30° each.

Draw perpendicular on
diameter CF from points
H1, H2, H3, H4 and H5.

109

Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile


Step 6

Take OI1 as radius and


draw arcs which cut the
radii OQ1 and OQ2 at J1
and J2 respectively.

Then take OI2 as radius


and draw arcs which cut
the radii OR1 and OR2 at
K1 and K2 respectively.

Repeat this step till OI5


as the radius and draw
arcs which cut the radii
OU1 and OU2 at N1 and
N2 respectively.
110

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Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile

Step 7
Draw small circles
having diameter of 2
units of the follower,
considering 14
centres C, J1, K1, L1,
M1, N1 and P1 while
the follower is having
a fall and B, J2, K2,
L2, M2, N2, and P2
while the follower is
rising.

111

Steps for Drawing SHM Cam Profile


Step 8
Join the inner surfaces of these
14 circles with smooth curved
line to get the profile of the cam.

Segment BOD is giving rise to


the follower (heald is lowering)

Segment BOC (60°) causes


dwell 1 of the heald at lower
position.

Segment COE (120°) is causing


fall of the follower (heald is
raised)

Segment DOE (60°) causes the


dwell 2 of the heald at the
raised position.

112

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Displacement of follower in SHM


As the diameter of the semicircle having centre at G is 6 units

From Figure, If r is the radius of the semicircle, then 2r = 6 or r


= 3 unit.

113

Displacement of follower in SHM


Starting at point C where one of the dwells is finishing, after 20°
rotation of the cam (or 30° in semicircle), the displacement of
the follower will be equal to the distance of CI1.

Similarly, the total displacement of the follower after 40, 60, 80,
100 and 120° rotation of the cam will be given by the distances
CI2, CG, CI4, CI5 and CF respectively.

114

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Displacement of follower in SHM


Therefore, the displacement of the follower between 30° and
60° (with respect to semicircle) is = CI2-CI1= 1.5-0.4= 1.1
units.

Table summarizes the displacements according to linear and


SHM movement pattern.

115

Displacement of follower in SHM

From Table, it is observed that the displacement


made after each 30° is equal (1 unit) in case of linear
profile.

In contrast, for SHM, the displacement is very small


(0.4 units) near the start and end of the motion.

However, the displacement made in each 30°


duration increases gradually from the starting point
and reaches maximum (1.5 unit) between 60-90°.

116

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Advantages of SHM Cam over Linear Cam


For linear cam, the displacement, velocity and
acceleration profile of the follower are shown in Figure.

Between 0° and 60° and between 180° and 240°, the


velocity of the follower is constant.

The constant velocity arises as the slope of the


displacement profile is constant (linear line) in these two
zones.

The follower will experience very high acceleration at 0°


and 240° and very high deceleration at 60° and 180°.

This can create jerky movement as well as wear and


tear of the machine components.
117

118

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Advantages of SHM Cam over Linear Cam

Figure depicts the velocity and acceleration profile of


the follower in case of SHM.

Change is velocity after the dwell is not sudden but


smooth (as the displacement pattern is following
SHM).

Thus the acceleration and deceleration of the follower


is much lower as compared to that of linear
movement pattern.

Thus the motion of the follower is smoother and wear


and tear of the machine components is lower.

119

120

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Dobby Shedding Systems

121

Limitation of Cam Shedding


The cam shedding system has limitation in terms of
number of healds that can be effectively controlled
during shedding

The problem arises when the number of picks in the


repeat of the design is very high.

122

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Keighley Dobby
Keighley dobby is known to be a double acting
dobby as most of the operations is done at half
speed as compared to the loom speed (picks per
minute).

The basic components of Keighley dobby are as


follows:

Stop bars
Baulk
Hooks (two per heald)
Knives (two for the entire dobby)
Pegs on pattern chain

123

124

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Keighley Dobby
The motion to reciprocating
knives (K1 and K2)
originates from bottom shaft
of loom.

As one revolution of bottom


shaft ensures two picks,
each of two knives
completes cycle of inward
(towards the left) and
outward (towards the right)
movements

The two reciprocating


knives are in complete
phase difference.
125

Keighley Dobby
The peg pushed right end of
feeler 2 in upward direction.

Thus left end of feeler 2


lowered.

So, hook 2 was also lowered on


knife 2 when latter moved
inward.

So, lower end of baulk (B)


moves away from stop bar 2
(S2).

Thus heald shaft is raised due


to connection at midpoint of
baulk.
126

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Keighley Dobby
In next cycle, knife 2 will move
inward and knife 1 will move outward.

Now, there is no peg corresponding


to the position of feeler 1. So, right
end of feeler 1 is lowered and left
end of it is raised.

Connecting rod has pushed the hook


1 in the upward direction.

So, when the knife 1 will perform its


outward movement, it will not be able
to catch the hook 1.

The top part of baulk will be resting


on stop bar 1 and thus the heald will
not be lifted for the next pick.

127

When the heald is in lower position for two consecutive picks, the top
as well as the bottom end of the baulk will be resting on the
respective stop bars. So, the midpoint of the baulk will not have any
significant movement.
If the heald is in raised position for two consecutive picks, then one
end of the baulk will move away from the stop bar and another end of
the baulk will move towards the stop bar.
Thus the middle point of the baulk will not experience any significant
movement.
Thus the amount of wasted movement is very nominal. Therefore,
the system will produce open shed.

128

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System of Pegging
Twill weave (3/3/1/1) which repeats on eight ends and
eight picks considered for demonstrating pegging
plan.

This design can be produced by using eight healds


and straight draft.

129

System of Pegging
The selection for heald movement is controlled by
wooden pegs which are inserted within the circular
holes made on the wooden lags.

The wooden lags linked together into a lattice which


is mounted on the pattern wheel (or barrel).

The pattern barrel is rotated by a certain degree once


in two peaks.

For example, if the barrel is hexagonal then it must


rotate by 60° after every two picks.

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System of Pegging
The presence of a peg within the hole results raised
position of the heald and vice versa.

The lateral shifting of holes is done so that two


adjacent feelers can be accommodated.

131

Positive Dobby
In Keighley dobby, knives and hooks
cause movement in the baulk and as
a result, the heald is raised. The
lowering of heald is done by the
reversing motion.

However, the upward and downward


movements of the healds are
completely controlled by the positive
dobby (rotary dobby)

The systems utilises specially


designed toothed gears for causing
engagement or disengagement of
gears and transmission of motions.

132

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Positive Dobby
This gear can be rotated either
by the top or by the bottom
gear which are having teeth
only over the half of their
periphery.

The top and bottom gears


complete one revolution in
every pick.

As they rotate in different


directions, they can rotate the
central gear in clockwise or in
anti-clockwise direction which
is required to raise or lower the
heald shaft through the links.

133

Positive Dobby
The selection mechanism
presents cylinders of different
diameters for different pick.

If the diameter of the cylinder is


low, then the lever carrying the
central gear is lowered on the
bottom gear

A missing tooth on the central


gear facilitates the meshing
between the two gears.

The bottom gear now rotates the


central gear in anti-clockwise
direction by half revolution
causing the heald to be lowered
through links.

134

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Positive Dobby
The heald will retain its lowered
position as long as cylinders with
lower diameter will be presented
by the selection mechanism to the
lever.

If a cylinder with higher diameter


is fed by the selection
mechanism, then the lever will be
raised and thus the central gear
will move in the upward direction
to mesh with top gear.

The central gear will now rotate in


clockwise direction causing the
heald to be raised.
135

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Jacquard Shedding Systems

Source: NPTEL (Fabric manufacturing I by Prof. Abhijit Majumdar)


https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102005/

136

Jacquard Shedding Systems


The cam and dobby shedding systems control large
number of yarns passing through a heald as a group
(No possibility of controlling individual ends
independently)

Therefore, complicated woven designs cannot be


made using cam or dobby shedding systems.

With jacquard shedding system, individual ends can


be controlled independently and thus large woven
figures can be produced in fabrics.

137

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Jacquard Shedding Systems

138

139

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Jacquard Shedding Systems

140

Classification of Jacquard Shedding

Mechanical jacquard systems can be classified


under three categories:

Single lift and single cylinder (SLSC)

Double lift and single cylinder (DLSC)

Double lift and double cylinder (DLDC)

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Single-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard


If the machine
has capacity to
handle 300 ends
independently,
then it requires
300 hooks (one
per end) which
are vertically
arranged and
300 needles (one
per hook) which
are horizontally
arranged.
142

Single-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard


Needles are arranged in six
rows and each row will have
50 needles.

Hooks, which are connected


to individual ends through
nylon cord (harness), are
also arranged in six rows
and each row is having 50
hooks.

One knife is responsible for


controlling the movement
(lifting and lowering) of one
row of hooks.

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Single-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard

However, whether a
hook will be lifted or not
will be decided by the
selection mechanism
which is basically a
punched card system
mounted on a revolving
cylinder.

The needles are


connected with springs
at the opposite size of
cylinder.
144

Single-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard

If there is a hole in the


punch card corresponding
to the position of a
needle, then the needle
will be able to pass
through the hole and thus
the hook will remain in
upright position thus
making it accessible to
the knife when the latter
has started its upward
movement.

145

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Single-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard


If there is no hole, then the
needle will be pressed towards
the left side and the kink
present in the needle presses
the hook towards the left side
making the latter tilted from the
vertical plane so that the knife
misses it while moving upward.

Presence of a hole implies


selection (ends up)

A hole works in similar way like


a peg used in dobby shedding.
146

Single-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard


If the loom speed is 300 picks per minute, the
cylinder will turn 300 times per minute and the
knives should also reciprocate (up and down) 300
times per minute.

When a particular hook (and the corresponding end)


has to be in up position in two consecutive picks, it
descends to its lowest possible height and then
moves up again (bottom closed shed)

Thus it hinders the high loom speed.

This happens as one end is controlled by a single


hook.
147

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Features of SLSC Jacquard

 500 end machine will have 500 needles and 500


hooks

 Cylinder should turn in every pick

 Knives must complete the cycle of rise and fall in


every pick

 Bottom closed shed is produced

148

Double-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard


One end is controlled by two
hooks which are again
controlled by a single needle.

For example, hooks 1 and 2


control the end 1 and hooks
3 and 4 control the end 2.

Two sets of knives move up


and down in complete phase
difference

When knives (K1 and K3)


attain highest position, other
knives (K2 and K4) attain
lowest position.

149

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Double-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard

At the given position,


end 1 is raised as the
hook 1 is lifted by the
corresponding knife
K1.

However, end 2 is not


raised as hook 3 is
not caught by knife
K3.

150

Double-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard

In the next pick, end 1 will


be lowered as the needle
F has been pressed
towards the left due to
the absence of a hole in
the punch card.

So, hook 2 became tilted


and it will not be raised
by knife K2 when the
latter will rise. Hook 1 will
also descend along with
Knife K1.

151

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Double-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard

On the other hand,


end 2 will be raised in
the next pick as there
is a hole in the punch
card corresponding to
the position of the
needle E.

So, hook 4 is upright


and it will be caught by
knife K4 when the
latter will move upward

152

Double-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard


If the loom speed is 300 picks per minute then the cylinder
will turn 300 times per minute but the knives will reciprocate
(rise and fall) 150 times per minute.

It produces semi open shed because if a particular end has


to be in raised position for two consecutive pick, it will
descend up to the middle point of its vertical path and then
move up.

This will happen because one of the hooks will descend and
the other hook will move up and they will cross at the middle
of their vertical path.

If the end has to remain in bottom position for two


consecutive picks, it will remain at the bottom without any
intermediate movement.

153

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Features of DLSC Jacquard

500 end machine will have 500 needle and 1000


hooks

Two sets of knives rise and fall in opposite phase

Cycles of movement (rise and fall) of each set of


knives spans over two picks

Cylinder should turn in every pick

Semi open shed is produced

154

Double-Lift Double-Cylinder Jacquard

Number of cylinder
rotation or turn and
number of reciprocation
cycle of knives is half
as compared to that of
SLSC.

One end is controlled


by two hooks, However,
each of the hooks is
controlled by separate
needles.

155

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Double-Lift Double-Cylinder Jacquard


Hooks 1 and 2 control the
end 1 and hooks 3 and 4
control the end 2.

The two needles (say N1 and


N2) corresponding to a
particular end (say end 1) are
controlled by two cylinders in
two picks.

One of the needles (N2) is


controlled by the right
cylinder (cylinder 2) and the
other needle (N1) is
controlled by the left cylinder
(cylinder 1).

156

Double-Lift Double-Cylinder Jacquard

One cylinder carries


the punch cards for
even pick numbers
like N, N+2, N+4,
N+6 and so on.

The other cylinder


carries the punch
cards for odd pick
numbers like N+1,
N+3, N+5 and so on.

157

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Double-Lift Double-Cylinder Jacquard


End 1 is in raised position
and end 2 is in lowered
position in this current pick.

End 1 will continue to be in


raised position in the next
pick as there is a hole in
punch card on cylinder 2
corresponding to the
position of needle 2 (N2).

So, hook 2 will remain in


upright position and thus it
will be raised by the knife 2
(K2).

158

Double-Lift Double-Cylinder Jacquard

On the other hand,


end 2 will continue to
be in lowered position
as it is being tilted by
needle 4 (N4) as there
is no hole on cylinder
2 corresponding to the
position of N4.

So, knife 4 (K4) will


miss the N4 when the
former will rise in the
next pick.

159

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Features of DLDC Jacquard


500 end machine will have 1000 needles and 1000
hooks

Two sets of knives rise and fall in opposite phase

Cycles of movement (rise and fall) of each set of


knives spans over two picks

Cylinder should turn in alternate pick

Semi open shed is produced

DLDC jacquard is capable to handle the maximum


loom speed (picks per minute) among the three types
of jacquard
160

Jacquard Harness
It is the system by which
the ends are controlled
during jacquard shedding
with the help of nylon
cords, heddles (heald eyes)
and dead weights (lingoes).

The individual harness


cords pass through the
perforations of a wooden
board named comber
board.

The dead weights or


lingoes pull end downwards
when it is not lifted.
161

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Jacquard Harness
If the hooks of the
jacquard are arranged in
six rows and each row is
having 50 hooks.

Then each hook will


effectively control 10
(3000/300) ends.

The interlacement pattern


of end 1, 301,
601,…….2701 will be
identical and thus they
can be controlled by hook
no. 1 through 10 nylon
cords.
162

Jacquard shedding

If the capacity of jacquard is 300 ends and fabric has


3000 ends then ten repeats of the design can be
produced on the fabric.

Eg.10 floral patterns on the entire width of the fabric.

163

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Problems in Jacquard Harness in Wide Looms


When the loom width and
thus the comber board width
are high, problem may arise
in terms of variation in the
lift received by various
heddles and consequently
the warp ends they control.

Here the loom width is 200


cm and the perpendicular
distance between the neck
band and the comber board
is 150 cm when the end is
down.

The lift of the hook is 10 cm.


164

Therefore, when the hook is raised by 10 cm, then the heddle


which is exactly at bottom of the hook will receive a lift of 10
cm. However, the heddle which is at the extreme left or right of
the comber board will receive a lift equal to the following.

Thus the loss of lift is around 16% with respect to the warp
end positioned vertically below the hook.

165

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Electronic Jacquard
In recent times electronic jacquards have become very
popular.

It controls the ends by synchronized operations of following


machine components.

Electromagnet

Retaining hook or ratchet

Hooks

Knives

Double roller

The knives are used to lift or lower the hooks.

166

Electronic Jacquard
If the electromagnet is activated
by the signal pattern, then it can
briefly retain the upper end of the
retaining hook once the latter is
pressed on the electromagnet
due to the upward movement of
the hook.
If this happens then the hook is
not retained by the retaining hook
when the former starts to
descend with the knife.
On the other hand, if the
electromagnet is not activated,
then the hook is retained or
caught by the retaining hook.

167

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Electronic Jacquard
Position 1:

Hook 2 (H2) has been lifted to the


highest position by the knife 2 (K2).

However, the electromagnet (E)


has been activated and it holds the
top end of the retaining hook 2 (R2)
momentarily and thus ensures that
the retaining hook 2 does not catch
the hook 2 when the latter is
descending.

At this instance the shed is at


lower position.

168

Electronic Jacquard

Position 2:

Knife 2 and hook 2 are


descending whereas knife 1 (K1)
and hook 1 (H1) are moving up.

So there is no effective


movement of the double pulley
assembly or shed.

The shed is still at lower


position.

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Electronic Jacquard

Position 3:
The hook 1 has been raised to the
highest position by the knife 1 and
thus the hook 1 has pressed the
top end of retaining hook 1 (R1)
against the electromagnet.

At this moment the electromagnet


has not been activated which
ensures that the kook 1 is caught
by the retaining hook 1.

170

Electronic Jacquard
Position 4:

Knife 1 has started to descend but the


hook 1 cannot descend as it is caught
by the retaining hook 1.

Knife 2 has again started its upward


movement along with hook 2.

The shed has now started to change


its position (moving upward).

This is because the hook 1 is already


in raised position (caught by retaining
hook 1) and hook 2 is also moving up.

171

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Electronic Jacquard

Position 5:

The hook 2 has pressed the top end


of retaining hook 2 against the
electromagnet which is not activated as
this instance.

Thus hook 2 is caught by the


retaining hook 2.

As both the hooks are now in raised


position, it creates upper shed position.

172

Electronic Jacquard

Position 6:

Knife 2 has started to descend.

However, the hook 2 retains its raised


position as it is held by the retaining hook
2.

Thus the shed remains in upper position.

173

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