Food Wine 03 2024

HOW
TO MAKE
PERFECTLY
CRISPY CUTLETS
AT HOME
P. 6 2
CL AS SIC
SCHNIT ZEL
P. 74
33
SPRING-READY
RECIPES
TO COOK NOW
P. 1 2 4
CHEF-INSPIRED
CHICKEN
DINNERS
P. 4 0 34
WINES TO
SIP, POUR, AND
PAIR WITH
MARCH 2024
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THE LEXUS LS
Kaitlin Guerin, owner of Lagniappe Baking, New Orleans, LA
A work of art
deserves a
proper pedestal.
True to food
TM
Copyright 2024© Signature Kitchen Suite, 111 Sylvan Ave., Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632. All rights reserved. “Signature Kitchen Suite” and the Signature Kitchen Suite logo are trademarks of Signature Kitchen Suite.
March 2024
CONTENTS
F E AT U R E S
62 Captains of Crunch
Whether you call it Milanese,
88 Chewy, Springy, Bouncy,
Delicious 12
THE RECIPES
Quick (and veggie-

katsu, cutlets, fried steak, or From fall-apart-tender braised focused) cassoulet,
schnitzel, breaded and pan-fried beef shanks to soft, sweet mochi cashew chicken, a
proteins are one of life’s ultimate— balls, the chewy texture called boozy coffee float,
and 30 more recipes
and crispiest—pleasures. “Q” in Taiwan is beloved around
to cook this month
By Melanie Hansche the world.
By Cathy Erway EDITOR’S LETTER
14 Lessons in cooking
76 Amrikan Pie
Loaded with bold toppings like
efficiently from the
“Basement Bistro”
cheesy masala corn and paneer
OBSESSIONS
marinated with tangy achar,
Indian pizza is cross-cultural 17 Colorful and sweet
Scandinavian
cooking at its very best.
candy, the very best
By Khushbu Shah salad spinners, the
story behind an
iconic Black-owned
barbecue sauce,
Achari and more
Paneer Pizza
(recipe p. 84) HANDBOOK
33 How to make savory

South Indian dosas
at home, 2023 F&W
Best New Chef Ed
Szymanski’s crave-
able whiskey and
cola sticky toffee
pudding, and four
weeknight chicken
dinners
BOTTLE SERVICE
PHOTOGRAPHY: EVA KOLENKO; FOOD STYLING: NATALIE DROBNY; PROP STYLING: NIDIA CUEVA
49 Make it an Austrian
spring with vibrant
Grüner Veltliner and
Riesling, plus three
delicious new ways
to bring coffee to
your home bar.
T R AV E L
57 Bangkok is home to
a burgeoning
generation of Thai
chefs focusing on
ancestral flavors,
from street food to
fine dining.
F&W CLASSICS
100 Brownies filled

with Heath bars
and pecans from
the ultimate
baking teacher,
Maida Heatter
10 MARCH 2024 ON THE COVER photography by VICTOR PROTASIO; food styling by CHELSEA ZIMMER; prop styling by JILLIAN KNOX
Credit approval required. Terms apply. See capitalone.com for details.
MARCH RECIPES
Food & Wine (ISSN 0741-9015) (March 2024) (Volume 47/Issue 2) is published monthly except for a combined issue in December/January by TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Operations Corporation. Principal Office: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008.
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KEY:
• •
FAST VEGETARIAN
• STAFF FAVORITE
MEAT & SEAFOOD MAINS

• Brown Butter Rice Cakes
40
P. 95
• Cashew Chicken
Chicken al Limone
P. 40
P. 42
• Chicken-Fried Steak
with Creamy Gravy P. 72
STA F F- FAV O R I T E
PA I R I N G
• Classic Schnitzel with
German Potato Salad
CASHEW CHICKEN
P. 74
with a gingery
Gewürztraminer:
•• Crispy Sesame Chicken
Schnitzel with Tomato 2021 Lucien
Salad and Tahini P. 75 Albrecht Réserve
Kou Shui Ji (Mouth-

watering Chicken) P. 42
• Ratatouille
Soup
Lentil
P. 36
• Loaded Baked Potatoes

with Smoked Chicken
• Sweet Potato Katsu
with Cucumber Salad
P. 44 and Yuzu Mayo P. 75
• Orecchiette with White
Bolognese P. 38
White Bean and
Mushroom Cassoulet
• Pork Chop Milanese with
Arugula Salad P. 69
P. 39
DRINKS
• Pretzel-Crusted Chicken
Sliders with Cabbage- ••• Coff ee Delight P. 50
Apple Slaw P. 74 • Cold Brew Negroni P. 51
Red-Braised Beef
Shanks P. 95
•• Martini
Pineapple-Espresso
P. 52
Tandoor-Style Chicken
Wings P. 87 ESSENTIALS
• Th ree-Cup Calamari P. 95 • Basic Indian Pizza Dough

P. 86
VEGETABLE SIDES & MAINS
magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless corrected delivery information is received within two years.
SWEETS & BAKED GOODS
•• Achari Paneer Pizza P. 84
• Black
• Aloo Masala (Potato
Masala) P. 35
Sesame and Peanut
Hakka-Style Mochi P. 96
• Amchur Ranch Salad •• Chocolate

Brownies
Toffee Bar
P. 98
74
with Crispy Chickpeas
STA F F- FAV O R I T E PA I R I N G
P. 86 • Jaggery and Fennel
PRETZEL-CRUSTED
CHICKEN SLIDERS WITH CABBAGE-
•• Beech Mushroom Salad
with Black Vinegar and
Crispy Rice Treats
Mango Pie P. 86
P. 87
APPLE SLAW Chiles P. 96 • Pandan and Coconut

with a Chardonnay with citrus and
•• Cheesy Masala Corn Cake P. 27
saline notes: 2021 Presqu’ile Pizza P. 84
•• Whiskey-Cola Sticky
Santa Barbara County •• Dosas P. 35 Toffee Pudding P. 47
What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor

Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month
2020 E. GUIGAL CROZES- KAMOSHIBITO KUHEIJI EAU 2020 LOUIS JADOT BEAUNE
HERMITAGE ROUGE ($35) DU DÉSIR JUNMAI DAIGINJO PREMIER CRU CÉLÉBRATION
SAKE ($42) ($85)
When I tasted with winemaker
ILLUSTRATION: ANN MARTIN FOLEY
Philippe Guigal in the F&W Wine At the Chef’s Table at Brooklyn I had Jadot’s 2002 Beaune pre-
Room recently, I was struck again Fare in NYC, head sommelier mier cru in December, and even
by what a great introduction to Peter Juong pours this strikingly after 21 years, it was still aromatic
the character of northern Rhône crisp but umami-rich sake with a and seductive. The current Célé-
Syrah this wine is: inky, peppery, silky chawanmushi (Japanese bration cuvée comes from even
and full of red and black fruit. egg custard) topped with caviar. better vineyards, and while it isn’t
Guigal remarked, “It highlights But uni from your local sushi inexpensive, for a Burgundy that
the freshness we find in Syrah place would make a similarly can age effortlessly for almost
here,” and I completely agree. amazing pairing. two decades, it’s a bargain.
12 MARCH 2024
The Efficient Cook
EDITOR’S LETTER
TOOLS
My wife, Jen, and I use
Breville’s Smart Oven Air
Fryer Pro daily to bake
banana bread, toast nuts,
or roast pork tenderloins on
Nordic Ware quarter sheet
pans. A single plug-in induc-
tion cooktop is key for boiling
water quickly. A Zavor DUO
Pressure Cooker makes stock
or batches of Bolognese in an
hour. Our Zojirushi rice cooker
yields perfect grains every
time. And the Nutribullet
Personal Blender makes
fast work of small batches
of dressings and sauces.
Those INGREDIENTS
We lean hard on bold
Kitchen condiments like Bachan’s

Japanese Barbecue Sauce,
Red Boat Fish Sauce, Huy
Reno Blues
Fong Foods Chili Garlic Sauce,
and Megachef Oyster Sauce.
Ann Taylor Pittman and Scott
Mowbray’s The Global Pantry
Cookbook has been my in-
spiration. Fishing around for
WE’RE IN THE KITCHEN RENOVATION home- individual spice jars gets old,
stretch over here at Chez Lewis. The cabinets so to reduce clutter, we use
are in. The fridge, range, and dishwasher are spice blends like garam ma-
sala, berbere, and five-spice
scheduled for delivery once the marble guy
a lot. Also, shortcut prep and
installs the backsplash and countertops on puree a batch of fresh garlic
Thursday. Then, praise be (hopefully, finally, and ginger with grapeseed oil
please?), we’ll be cooking with gas. weekly and store in the fridge.
I sauté the combo almost
This means that we’ll soon shut down the
ideas, and ambitious cooking projects, but daily to build flavor.
Basement Bistro, formerly known as the kids’
you’re also going to see more simple and
rec room, where we’ve been cooking for five PLANNING
accessible recipes in the coming months, like
or so nights a week since August. And good
the ones you’ll find in Handbook (p. 33) and Every weekend, the two of
riddance. I’d like to think that I’m a flexible us sit down to map out a
in the big “52 Recipes to Make This Year” pack-
cook: Throw me in a stranger’s janky kitchen game plan anchored around
age that we published two issues ago, which proteins like ground pork,
anywhere, and I’ll figure out dinner. But I’d
now lives at foodandwine.com/52recipes. chicken thighs, or shrimp,
be lying if I said that going without the cre-
Have any good advice for cooking your way and favorite recipes like pho,
ative hub of our home, not to mention doing pasta, and rice bowls. The
through a renovation? I’d love to hear from
dish duty in a laundry-room sink for months goal: just make it to Wednes-
you, and I may include your tips in a follow- day night, and waste less.
on end, hasn’t worn us down.
up story as I share our kitchen progress on Then we do a second shop on
There are far worse things happening in the
Instagram and in these pages somewhere Thursday for a couple more
world than finding a leak behind your walls dinners as we downshift into
down the road—as long as that marble guy
or firing a shady contractor, though. So rather the weekend. Big salads,
shows up soon. sandwiches, and soups help
than focus on the slog, I’ll share with you what
us clean out the fridge for
I’ve learned about streamlining (see “The
the next week of dinners.
Efficient Cook,” at right)—lessons that I’ll carry So does freezing leftover fruit
with me into our new kitchen upstairs. for smoothies.
This more efficient cooking mindset also
dovetails with the way we’ve started thinking SUBSCRIPTION HELP
HUNTER LEWIS
about recipes here at Food & Wine. We’ll con- foodandwine.com/myaccount or email
[email protected] us at [email protected]
tinue to publish chef recipes, entertaining @NOTESFROMACOOK or call 1-800-333-6569.
Tickets for the F&W Classic in Aspen are sold out, but we’d love to welcome you to the inaugural
Food & Wine Classic in Charleston, September 27–29, where we’ll celebrate the city’s culture through its
foodways, chefs, history, and architecture. See you there? For information about tickets and schedules, go to
foodandwineclassicincharleston.com.
14 MARCH 2024 photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY

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OBSESSIONS
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THE ODE
Scandi Candy
Sweden’s “Saturday candy” is the
sweetest Scandinavian tradition.
By Khushbu Shah
produced by AMELIA SCHWARTZ photography by GREG DUPREE MARCH 2024 17

OBSESSIONS
S
WEDEN IS ONE of the happiest countries
in the world, according to the World
Happiness Report, and I am convinced that 1
it’s largely due to their custom of lördagsgodis,

which translates to “Saturday candy.” Every week-
end, children and adults alike spend part of their
Saturday cozy at home, eating through an assort-
ment of their favorite candies. The ideas behind this
tradition are moderation and celebration. Reserving
candy consumption for one day a week means not
giving in to your sweet tooth daily while also build-
ing up excitement and anticipation for Saturday,
making the treats even more special.
When the Swedes are enjoying lördagsgodis, the
candies they consume are not large bars of choc-
olate or king-size bags of Skittles. Instead, they
prefer a fun mix of small chocolates, gummies,
caramels, licorice, and flavorful foamy marsh-
mallows. The candy is often purchased from local
grocery stores that have walls lined with candy
bins, selling loose candy by its weight, called “pick
and mix,” where customers can pick (and mix)
candies of their choice. Read on for our favorite
Scandinavian candies.
10
WHERE TO BUY SWEDISH CANDY

While we might not have the custom of “Saturday candy”
in the States, there are many charming places to
purchase a variety of Swedish sweets. You can check out
these online retailers to start your own tradition.
SOCKERBIT SWEETISH
This candy store has a Based in Lancaster,
physical location in Los Pennsylvania, Sweetish
Angeles, where bins of sells and ships several
assorted gummies, varieties of candy along
licorice, and marshmal- with other Nordic products
lows line the walls. They such as cloudberry
also ship sweets, including preserves and glögg
variety bags of pick and concentrate. (sweetish
mix. (sockerbit.com) candy.com)
9
BONBON KOLSVART
With two physical This Swedish company
locations in New York City, makes elegant, minimalist
this Swedish candy shop bags of gummy and
ships both single and licorice fish in a range of
mixed varieties of candy in natural flavors including
charming light-pink bags. black currant and
(bonbonnyc.com) elderflower. (kolsvart.com)
18 MARCH 2024
SWEDISH CANDIES
TO ADD TO YOUR
MIXED BAG
1. COLA BOTTLES
Known as Malaco
2
colaflaskor, these cola-
flavored gummy bottles
have a pleasant chew.
2. HAPPY FLOWERS
Better than a bouquet, the
happy flowers come in an
assortment of colors and
fruity flavors with
marshmallowy petals and
smiley faces at the center.
3. SWEET LICORICE
3 SQUARES
These sweet, lightly herbal
squares are the perfect
introduction to black
4
licorice for those who are
curious but cautious.
4. SÖTA KATTEN
These kitten-shaped
gummies come in both
raspberry and apple
flavors—and they happen
to be vegan.
5. SOUR PEACH LIPS

Fruity, sour, and perfectly
chewy, it’s easy to eat
several of these in
one sitting.
6. BANANA CARAMEL
BUBS
Usually, banana-flavored
candy has an extremely
8 artificial edge, but these
foamy marshmallow
candies are more subtle
and wholesome in flavor.
7. ELDERFLOWER FISH
There’s something quite
elegant and refined about
these delicately floral
Swedish fish.
8. MINI FRIED EGGS

The whites have a soft and
5
foamy texture, while the
7 gummy yolk has a gently
fruity flavor. They’re
delicious and adorable.
9. RASPBERRY
LICORICE SKULLS
Black licorice can be
polarizing, but the herbal
flavor perfectly counter-
balances the fruity
raspberry in these chewy
6
gummy skulls.
10. SOUR DUMMIES

Don’t let the pacifier shape
throw you off—these very
sour gummies are
definitely not for babies.
MARCH 2024 19
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OBSESSIONS
BEST SPLURGE
RÖSLE SALAD SPINNER
This salad spinner com-
bines efficiency with
precise control thanks to
the knob on the lid. Spin it
quickly to dry greens and
herbs or slowly for fragile
berries. Its sturdy steel
bowl and weighted glass
lid make it a top choice
for those seeking some-
thing reliable and sleek.
($88, amazon.com)
BEST VALUE
OXO LARGE
SALAD SPINNER
Our winner’s budget-
friendly cousin performs
great without the added
weight of glass. Its
straightforward design
features a pump mecha-
nism, effectively removing
excess water from salad
PHOTOGRAPHY: MORGAN HUNT GLAZE; FOOD STYLING: JULIAN HENSARLING; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN
greens. Lightweight and
easy to clean, it’s a reliable
BEST OVERALL
Spin Me Right Round choice for salad prepara-
tion. ($30, oxo.com)
OXO GOOD GRIPS GLASS SALAD
Say farewell to wet lettuce with SPINNER
these F&W-tested and -approved We’ve tried many salad spinners

from OXO, but the Good Grips Glass
salad spinners. Salad Spinner surpasses its stain-
less and plastic counterparts in both
performance and looks. Thanks to a
By Jennifer Zyman
clever design feature—a small plastic
disk that elevates the glass bowl—
SALAD SPINNERS are modern culinary workhorses. First patented greens dry rapidly and then remain
by a French kitchenware designer in the early 1970s, these handy dry, sitting above the spent water.
devices revolutionized cleaning greens and expedited dinner
There’s also the added advantage of BEST FAST-DRY
being able to monitor water clarity
prep by rapidly removing excess moisture from freshly washed through the see-through bowl, which ZYLISS SWIFT DRY
produce using centrifugal force. Today, salad spinners remain is especially helpful in the case of LARGE SALAD SPINNER
indispensable tools for cooks who want to ensure produce is heavily soiled items like cilantro or Thanks to its quick-drying
prepared leeks. The borosilicate glass capabilities, this salad
clean after its journey to the kitchen, whether from the store or spinner is another favorite.
bowl is dishwasher safe, and once
the vegetable garden. We tested the best models on the market your prep is complete, it can double It has a large capacity and
to arrive at these top performers. as a salad bowl. ($65, oxo.com) is ideal for quick and thor-
ough salad preparation.
Its pedal-style pump spins
at higher speeds than
Every product branded with the Food & Wine Faves logo has received the highest marks from the profes- other models, efficiently
sional cooks in the Food & Wine Test Lab to help you make smarter purchases. Use the QR code to find expelling excess water.
more of our favorite tested and recommended products at foodandwine.com. ($43, zyliss.com)
22 MARCH 2024 photography by GREG DUPREE

WHY CAN’T WE SIT
3
WHEN THERE ARE
CLEARLY TABLES
OPEN?
Often, when a host puts a guest on

the waitlist, the guest will point at
an empty table and say, “Could we
just sit there?” as if the host didn’t
realize there was a vacant spot
behind them. Or even worse—the
guest just plops themselves down
at that empty table without asking.
Trust me, the host knows that table
is empty, and it’s empty for a reason.
That table is most likely being held
for a reservation or a party that’s
higher up on the waitlist, or the res-
taurant is understaffed or behind
on orders and is intentionally not
seating tables in order to stay out
of the weeds.
WHY DO I NEED TO
4
WAIT UNTIL THE
Ask the Host REST OF MY PARTY
ARRIVES TO SIT?
The answers to restaurant guests’
Although it can be frustrating for
most frequently asked questions the early-bird guest, bringing an
incomplete party to a table has the
By Amelia Schwartz potential to completely screw up
a host’s seating plan. The longer a
WORKING AS A HOST at a busy Manhattan restaurant for four years, table is waiting for the rest of their
I experienced a lot of wild guest interactions. But what’s completely party, the longer they are waiting
to order, eat, pay, and leave in time
singed into my brain are the FAQs, the questions that were asked doz-
for the next reservation. If people in
ens of times a shift—and that you’ve probably asked on a night out.
the group are running more than 15
Each has a clear answer; seating tables involves strategy and complex minutes late, it’s advantageous for a
problem-solving, though your host may not have the time to explain host to prioritize seating a complete
it to you on a busy night of service. So here they are: the answers to party that’s ready to start their meal
guests’ most frequently asked questions. immediately.
IS THE WAIT TIME WHY DID YOU LIE CAN WE MOVE TO

1 2 5
REALLY THAT LONG? ABOUT THE WAIT THAT TABLE?
TIME?
Short answer: yes. Long answer: Hosts don’t select your table at
There’s no way to know. Look, if your Sometimes the wait will be signifi- random. It’s based on the number
host had a time machine to accu- cantly longer or shorter than esti- of seats at that table and the sizes
rately predict the exact number of mated. That doesn’t mean the host of other reservations to come. They
minutes it would take for a table to planned to keep you on your toes. It also need to make sure that guests
open up, they would use it—it would means that things changed in the are evenly distributed among serv-
make their job a lot easier. The wait dining room. Maybe there was a ers, or else someone may wind up
For more tips on time given to a guest is and always 10-top that canceled, making room too busy and someone else under-
being a five-star will be the host’s best guess based for five two-tops off the waitlist. Or worked and cheated of their tips. If
guest, hospitality on how many tables are ahead of the maybe it started pouring rain, caus- it’s a slow night, odds are a host will
industry news, and party and the rate at which tables ing groups to prolong their meal in let you move to a different table, so
to sign up for the are turning. But no matter what, the favor of staying dry indoors. A night there’s no harm in asking—just be
F&W Pro newsletter, host would never exaggerate the at a restaurant is always unpredict- understanding if they say no. An
visit foodandwine wait time. They know that the longer able. If your wait time is inching past even better move? Request a spe-
.com/fwpro. the wait time, the less likely a party the host’s estimate, just check in cific table in your reservation notes
is to wait around. with them for an update. or when you’re added to the waitlist.
illustrations by OSCAR BOLTON GREEN MARCH 2024 23

OBSESSIONS
IN SEASON
Queen of Green Pandan, a Southeast Asian leaf,

adds its heady fragrance to all kinds of dishes.
By Lara Lee
FOOD STYLING: JULIAN HENSARLING; PROP STYLIST: CLAIRE SPOLLEN
Pandan and
Coconut Cake
(recipe p. 27)
24 MARCH 2024 photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

O F A B E T TE R R E A L E S TATE E XPE R IE N CE
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OBSESSIONS
P
ANDAN IS SOUTHEAST ASIA’S AROMATIC,
enigmatic green muse. The flowering tropical
plant thrives in the region and is so abundant
that if not for its culinary significance, it might be
considered a weed.
There are hundreds of species of pandan, but
only the leaves of Pandanus amaryllifolius exude
a tantalizing fragrance. The scent of its elongated,
spearlike, glossy deep-green blades is elusive, but
envision the melding of toasted rice, freshly mown
grass, and sweet blooming jasmine, and you’ll begin
to get the idea.
In savory dishes, pandan amplifies sweetness,
bringing a unique depth of flavor. In Singapore and
Malaysia, pandan leaves are simmered in coconut
milk to produce the rich, fragrant coconut rice
pivotal to nasi lemak (coconut rice topped with
fried anchovies and peanuts). In Indonesia, pandan
joins forces with turmeric to make nasi kuning
(turmeric rice).
The realm of pandan-tinted sweets is even more
vast and varied. There’s the honeycomb-textured
Vietnamese cake bánh bò nuóng, and Singapore’s
ethereal pandan chiffon cake that seemingly dis-
solves on the tongue. Pandan has a special affinity
for coconut: Indonesians and Malaysians enjoy kue
dadar gulung, fluorescent green pandan-flavored
pancakes rolled around a sweet coconut filling; kaya,
the beloved pandan and coconut jam; and kuih seri
muka, a steamed, sticky glutinous-rice cake snack
with layers of white coconut and green pandan.
To me, pandan’s allure rests not just in its flavor
but also in its versatility and rich traditions, which
I’ve used as inspiration for a layered Pandan and
Coconut Cake (recipe opposite). Every time I make it,
I wonder at the power of such a humble ingredient—a
simple leaf—to dazzle and perfume.
SHOPPING GUIDE
FRESH OR DRIED PANDAN PANDAN JUICE PANDAN POWDER ARTIFICIAL PANDAN EXTRACTS
FROZEN LEAVES LEAVES Also known as pandan Pandan powders work PANDAN FLAVOR AND PASTES
Whole pandan leaves Dried pandan leaves water or homemade well in doughs, cakes, This clear pandan- Bottled pandan can
are typically steeped rehydrate once extract, pandan juice and batters, adding flavored liquid is turn your treats a
in liquid (a pot of rice; steeped in hot liquid, is made from fresh or a mellow mint-green available from brands glow-stick fluorescent
a simmering stew) to so toss dried pandan frozen pandan leaves hue. Some are made such as McCormick green, so it should be
impart its aroma and directly into your rice, that have been roughly from evaporated and Star Brand used a little at a time
a very subtle green curries, desserts, or chopped and blended pandan juice and and can be used in until the desired color
hue to dishes. Refrig- soups. They will keep together with water, others from the more desserts or beverages is achieved. (Start with
erate fresh leaves for a year or more, but to add aroma and 1/8 teaspoon.) Pick
then strained. Store aromatic freeze-dried
upright in a jar of water once they’ve lost their pandan juice in the leaves. My favorite taste but without the one that has mostly
or wrapped in a damp fragrance, they should fridge in a sealed jar is Suncore Foods signature green color natural ingredients,
towel in an airtight be discarded and for three to four days Emerald Pandan Leaf imparted by fresh like Koepoe Koepoe
container, or buy them replaced. ($6 for 0.5 or in the freezer for Powder. ($20, suncore pandan leaves. pandan paste. ($9,
frozen. (sayweee.com) ounce, amazon.com) three months. foods.com) ($3, umamicart.com) amazon.com)
GET THAT GREEN

Pandan powder Pandan extract Pandan juice
When cooking with pandan, here are
the shades of green to expect.
26 MARCH 2024
Pandan and Coconut Cake 5. Sift together flour, baking powder, and 8. Toast remaining 2 tablespoons shredded
salt in a large bowl. With mixer running on coconut in a small skillet over medium,
ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 10 MIN, PLUS
low speed, gradually add flour mixture to stirring often, until golden brown, 2 to 3
2 HR COOLING; SERVES 12
butter mixture alternately with coconut minutes. Transfer toasted coconut to a
Freshly ground leaves of pandan, a tropi- milk mixture, beginning and ending with small bowl, and let cool completely, about
cal plant with a vanilla- and coconut-like flour mixture; beat until just combined. 15 minutes. Sprinkle toasted coconut
Divide batter evenly between prepared evenly over cake. —LARA LEE, ADAPTED FROM
aroma, give this eye-catching cake a floral
pans; smooth tops using an offset spatula. COCONUT & SAMBAL
fragrance and luminous green color. A layer
of mascarpone cheese swirled with rasp- 6. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden MAKE AHEAD Cake layers can be tightly
berry jam balances the sweet cake with a pick inserted in center of cakes comes out wrapped in plastic wrap and stored at
touch of tartness. Mascarpone brands vary clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cakes cool in room temperature up to 1 day before
in thickness—we found BelGioioso to be pans on a wire rack 5 minutes. Remove assembling cake.
sturdy enough to support the cake layers cakes from pans; let cool completely,
NOTE Fresh pandan leaves are available at
while still being soft and easy to spread. parchment side down, on a wire rack, 2 to 3
most Asian grocery stores. If you don’t
hours. Remove and discard parchment.
have fresh leaves, you can substitute a
CAKE 7. Assemble the cake: Stir 11/4 cups mas- combination of pandan powder and
12 fresh pandan leaves, very thinly carpone in a medium bowl until loosened pandan paste. To do so, omit step 2, and
sliced crosswise (about 11/2 cups) to a spreadable consistency; swirl in jam. replace pandan liquid in step 3 with 1/3 cup
(see Note) Trim top of 1 cake layer using a serrated water, 3 tablespoons pandan powder, and
1/2 cup water knife to create a flat surface; place cake 4 drops pandan paste. Let coconut milk
layer, cut side up, on a serving plate. mixture cool, and continue with step 4 as
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
Spread mascarpone mixture evenly over directed, adding additional pandan paste
2/3 cup plus 2 Tbsp. unsweetened finely
top; cover with remaining cake layer, to batter, if desired, to reach preferred
shredded coconut (such as Bob’s
rounded side up. Stir remaining mascar- color and flavor. Superfine sugar (or
Red Mill), divided
pone (about 1/2 cup) to loosen; spread caster sugar) is available at most grocery
21/3 cups superfine sugar (see Note) evenly over top of cake. stores or online at surlatable.com.
11/2 cups unsalted butter (12 oz.),
softened, plus more for greasing
3 large eggs, at room temperature
31/4 cups all-purpose flour (about
137/8 oz.)
31/2 tsp. baking powder
1/8 tsp. fine sea salt
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
2 (8-oz.) pkg. mascarpone cheese

(such as BelGioioso), divided
1/4 cup seedless raspberry jam
1. Bake the cake: Preheat oven to 350°F.

Grease 2 (8-inch) round cake pans with
butter. Line bottoms of pans with parch-
ment paper; line sides with 2 (26- x 2-inch)
parchment paper strips.
2. Process pandan leaves and 1/2 cup water
in a food processor until mixture forms a
finely chopped pulp, 3 to 4 minutes, stop-
ping to scrape down sides of processor
bowl as needed. Pour pulp through a fine
wire-mesh strainer placed over a medium
bowl, and press on solids with a rubber
spatula to extract 1/3 cup liquid; discard sol-
ids and any excess liquid. Set aside.
3. Heat coconut milk in a medium sauce-
pan over medium-low, stirring occasionally,
until steaming. Remove from heat. Stir in
2/3 cup shredded coconut and reserved
pandan liquid; let stand at room tempera-

ture until flavors infuse and mixture has
cooled, about 30 minutes.
4. Beat sugar and butter in bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on
medium speed until light and creamy, 3 to
4 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides
of bowl as needed. Add eggs, 1 at a time,
beating well after each addition.
MARCH 2024 27
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COURSE 1: AWAKEN THE PALETTE invigorating spirit.
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OBSESSIONS
THE OBSESSIVE Argia was an architect of Chicago’s pork-centric regional

barbecue style. He was one of the hundreds of thousands of
Special Sauce Allison Collins, Black Americans who moved from the South (most notably
Mississippi) to Chicago during the Great Migration and one of a
the second-generation owner handful who opened a barbecue restaurant once they got there.
of Mumbo Sauce, is capturing At the rib joints that dotted Chicago’s South and West sides,
each restaurant’s sauce was its calling card. But for Argia, the
history in a bottle. sauce was much more. He began selling Mumbo Sauce (not to
By Angela Burke be confused with mambo sauce, the sweet-and-sour sauce that
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF SELECT BRANDS LLC
was later popularized in Washington, D.C.) at his restaurant and

ALLISON COLLINS HAS NEVER KNOWN LIFE WITHOUT Mumbo at retail stores; by 1958, Argia had trademarked and turned his
Sauce—it drizzles over her earliest memories. Her father, Argia B. distinctive condiment into what is considered to be one of the
Collins, created the tomatoey, vinegar-based barbecue sauce in oldest Black-owned bottled sauces in the nation. (Today, the
the early 1950s at his eponymous restaurant in Chicago. Argia B’s sauce can be purchased online at mumbosauce.com.)
Bar-B-Q was like Allison’s second home. She jokes that scooping Allison is attempting to capture the gravity of this history one
coleslaw into paper cups as a toddler was her first job. Decades story and one object at a time. She has gathered memorabilia
later, as the second-generation owner of Mumbo Sauce, Allison from her deceased dad’s office, including tear sheets of Mumbo
is taking on a new role at the company: that of documentarian, Sauce ads that ran in Ebony and Life, newspaper clippings about
archiving her family’s business, defining its broader historical her father, purchase orders, renderings of the Mumbo Sauce
significance, and recording its lasting cultural impact. label (which, like the recipe, hasn’t changed much over the
30 MARCH 2024
3 TIPS FOR
ARCHIVING THE
HISTORY OF YOUR
BUSINESS
GET ORGANIZED
Visual documentation is one
advantage that most emerg-
ing businesses have already,
but instead of leaving those
images on social platforms,
they should be backed up,
labeled, and categorized.
GET GOING
“Experiencing the pandemic
and recognizing how many
people did not make it, that
really set a fire under me
of putting a plan together,”
Allison says. She prioritizes
elders in her outreach
because their stories,
wisdom, and knowledge are
most at risk of being lost if
not preserved.
GET HELP
Archiving your business is a
major undertaking, especially
if you’re also running it. Enlist
specialists, using a website
like Thumbtack, for tasks that
can be easily delegated, or
ask friends and family to help.
years), and a midcentury Rolodex full of names and business clockwise from in celebrating the tenacity and creativity
left: Argia B.
contacts. She’s enlisted a photographer to help restore faded of her father, herself, and the many others
Collins (right) and
images and archive them digitally. his brother Harvey who have kept the independently owned
Grounded by her chosen medium of oral storytelling, a tradi- promoting their food business alive for over 70 years. And
tion that runs deep in African American culture, Allison inter- restaurant; historic it ensures that the Mumbo Sauce story will
viewed participants in conversations that she had professionally Mumbo Sauce not be forgotten or erased from history like
advertisement;
recorded. For potential interviewees, she instinctively recalled Allison Collins countless Black spaces and contributions,
the names of her dad’s colleagues, employees, and family mem- with the full line of historically and presently.
bers, which include a lineage of notable entrepreneurs. “As you Mumbo Sauce; Today, it often happens at the grocery
start thinking about who you want to talk to, the list gets longer advertisement in store, usually while Allison is standing
Life magazine
and longer,” she says. from 1970; local ad beside an endcap offering samples: Some-
What she learned from these living libraries helped Allison in Chicago Herald one approaches her with a personal ode to
to see her family’s business in a new light. She heard about American the sauce that is her family heirloom but
“obstacles that [my dad] may have had to overcome and things has been a fixture on their family’s table for
that I probably wouldn’t have known as a kid,” she says. Some generations. After briefly chatting, she takes their information to
stories, like the tale of a supermarket boycott spearheaded by a contact them for an interview later. Archiving is a daily practice.
young Jesse Jackson in response to the redlining of Black-owned Allison is contemplating what she’ll do with her archive. She
products, helped her understand how the story of Mumbo Sauce wants to write a book, and she is considering turning her footage
was interwoven with that of the Civil Rights Movement. into a short documentary. Either way, the main character will
Archiving the history of Mumbo Sauce has been an exercise undoubtedly be Mumbo Sauce.
MARCH 2024 31
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HANDBOOK
Dosas
(recipe p. 35)
THE TECHNIQUE
Dosa Delights
Tangy, chewy, and crispy,
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY
homemade dosas are a

South Indian classic.
produced by PAIGE GRANDJEAN photography by HEAMI LEE MARCH 2024 33

HANDBOOK
DOSAS
IF YOU WANTED TO TRY to capture the

essence of South India in a single
food, dosas might be it. These savory
fermented crêpes, folded over spiced
vegetable fillings, are eaten from
breakfast to dinner across the sub-
continent and around the world. Most
people know the dosas you see at
restaurants—the impossibly thin ver- 1 2
sion that spans the length of a table, SOAK THE RICE AND LENTILS BLEND THE RICE MIXTURE
forcing you to push back your seat so Combine white rice, urad dal (split lentils), and Working in batches, blend drained rice mixture,
you don’t crush its lacy, crispy edges. fenugreek seeds in a large bowl. Cover with 4 salt, and reserved soaking liquid together in a
inches of cold water, and soak 6 to 8 hours. blender until a smooth, thick batter forms.
Homemade dosas are not so dramatic.
“Dosas made at home will seldom
be as big or thin as restaurant dosas,
but the smaller, pancake-size dosas
are just as good, maybe even better,”
notes Anita Jaisinghani, chef and
owner of Houston’s Pondicheri
restaurant, in her cookbook Masala:
Recipes from India, the Land of
Spices. Like many South Indian
cooks, Jaisinghani keeps a batch of
batter at the ready at home, soaking
lentils and rice, then grinding and
fermenting the batter to achieve the
sour notes essential to a good dosa.
Making dosas is an art that depends
on the elements. At my grandparents’
house in Visakhapatnam, India, the 3 4
warm air and humidity that floated
FERMENT THE BATTER THIN THE BATTER
through the open windows ensured Let batter stand in a warm environment (75°F to Add up to 1 cup water to batter, 1/4 cup at a time,
that the batter fermented easily, form- 80°F) until slightly puffed and bubbly and batter stirring until consistency resembles a slightly
ing bubbles and rising in just a few has a sour smell, about 12 hours. thickened crêpe batter.
hours. I don’t get the same results in
my chilly apartment in Chicago, but
Jaisinghani’s recipe is designed to
work even in air-conditioned kitchens.
The batter needs the room tempera-
ture to be warm (75°F to 80°F) to
ferment, but you can stash it in a
turned-off oven with the light on if
you keep your home cooler.
Each dosa cooks in minutes before
it’s filled with sautéed greens, vegeta-
bles, chutney, or, my favorite, Aloo
Masala (recipe opposite), spiced pota-
toes cooked in ghee. The dosas I make
at home may be slightly imperfect;
they’re sometimes misshapen and are
thicker and homier than those paper- 5 6
thin restaurant options. But their tang
SPREAD THE BATTER IN THE SKILLET COOK THE DOSA
and crunch take me back to my grand- Ladle 1/4 cup batter in center of hot cast-iron Drizzle 1/2 teaspoon oil around edge and on top
mother’s kitchen, both on the plate skillet. Using bottom of ladle, spread outward in of dosa. Cook until bottom browns, edge crisps,
and in my heart. —CHANDRA RAM a spiral motion to form a 6- to 8-inch round. and top is set, about 2 minutes.
34 MARCH 2024
Dosas
ACTIVE 1 HR 35 MIN, PLUS 6 HR SOAKING
AND 12 HR FERMENTING; MAKES 32 DOSAS
Crisp and slightly tangy South Indian dosas

are made from a fermented rice-and-lentil
batter. When cooking the dosas, flip to
brown both sides for a crisper dosa. For a
more tender version, just cook one side.
3 cups uncooked white rice (such

as jasmine or basmati)
1 cup uncooked urad dal (split
lentils) (see Note)
1 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds
3/4 to 1 cup water, plus cold water for
rinsing and soaking
1 Tbsp. fine sea salt, divided
Melted coconut oil or ghee
Aloo Masala (Potato Masala)
(recipe follows)
1. Combine rice, urad dal, and fenugreek

seeds in a large bowl. Add cold water to
cover, and stir for 10 to 15 seconds; drain.
Repeat rinsing process twice until water is
mostly clear. Return rice mixture to bowl, batter falls off ladle in a thick ribbon, leav- Aloo Masala (Potato Masala)
and cover with about 4 inches of cold ing a 1-second trail on batter surface. ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN; SERVES 8
water. Set aside, uncovered, in a warm
5. Heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over
environment (75°F to 80°F) (see Note)
medium-high. Brush hot skillet lightly with These golden spiced potatoes are
until rice and lentils double in size, 6 to 8
melted coconut oil, wiping with a paper enriched with ghee and scented with floral,
hours, stirring once after 1 hour.
towel to remove excess oil. Ladle 1/4 cup citrusy curry leaves.
2. Pour rice mixture through a fine wire- batter in center of skillet. Using bottom of
mesh strainer set over a large bowl; ladle, quickly spread batter outward in a 4 russet potatoes (about 3 1/2 lb.),
reserve soaking liquid. Working in 3 spiral motion, applying even, constant peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
batches, transfer about one-third of rice pressure to form a thin 6- to 8-inch round. 4 cups water
mixture (about 2 1/2 cups) to a high-speed (Stop spreading once ladle begins to stick 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
blender; add 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 cup to pan.) Drizzle about 1/2 teaspoon oil 1 tsp. ground turmeric
reserved soaking liquid. Blend on low around edge and on top of dosa; cook 1 serrano chile, stemmed and minced
speed, gradually increasing speed to high, until bottom browns, edge crisps, and top
until a smooth, thick batter forms, 1 to 2 2 Tbsp. ginger puree (see Note)
is set, about 2 minutes. If desired, flip
minutes, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons addi- dosa, and cook until second side is very
1/2 cup ghee
tional soaking liquid if needed. (Batter will lightly browned, 10 to 15 seconds. Loosen 1 cup minced white onion
feel slightly gritty to the touch.) Pour bat- dosa edge using a thin spatula. Add about 15 to 20 fresh or frozen curry leaves
ter into a large (3- to 4-quart) container. 3 tablespoons aloo masala to half of dosa; 1 tsp. black mustard seeds
Repeat process 2 times using remaining
fold dosa over filling, and serve immedi-
rice mixture, remaining salt, and 1 cup
ately. Repeat as desired to make more 1. Bring potatoes, 4 cups water, 2 tea-
reserved soaking liquid, plus more as
dosas. Leftover batter can be refriger- spoons salt, and turmeric to a boil in a pot
needed. (If using a blender that is not high-
ated, covered, up to 2 weeks. —ANITA JAIS- over high. Cover and reduce heat to
speed, work in 6 batches, using 1 1/4 cups
INGHANI, ADAPTED FROM MASALA medium-low; simmer, undisturbed, until
rice mixture, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 cup
reserved soaking liquid for each batch.) MAKE AHEAD Batter can be prepared potatoes are very tender, 30 to 35 min-
through step 4 and stored in an airtight utes. Stir in chile and ginger; remove from
3. Whisk 1/4 cup reserved soaking liquid heat. Cover and let stand 15 to 20 minutes.
container in refrigerator up to 2 weeks.
into batter; discard remaining soaking liq-
Bring to room temperature, whisk well 2. Melt ghee in a large skillet over medium.
uid. (Batter should resemble thick pan-
to recombine, and proceed with step 5 Add onion, curry leaves, and mustard
cake batter and should fall off whisk in a
as directed. seeds; cook, stirring occasionally, until
thick ribbon, leaving a trail on top of bat-
ter for about 10 seconds before sinking WINE A nutty pétillant naturel: 2022 onion is translucent, about 6 minutes.
back into batter.) Cover container; let Meinklang Weisser Mulatschak Remove from heat. Transfer potatoes to
stand in a warm environment (75°F to NOTE Find urad dal (split lentils) at most
onion mixture using a slotted spoon. Add
80°F) until slightly puffed, bubbles have Indian grocery stores or at nuts.com. If remaining 1 teaspoon salt; stir until pota-
formed all over, and batter has a sour toes begin to break down into a coarse,
your kitchen temperature is below 75°F,
smell, about 12 hours. mashed consistency. —ANITA JAISINGHANI,
soak and ferment dosa mixture in a
ADAPTED FROM MASALA
4. Thin batter with 3/4 to 1 cup water, turned-off oven with oven light on; turn
1/4 cup at a time, until consistency resem- light off halfway through process to NOTE Find ginger puree at Indian grocery
bles a slightly thickened crêpe batter and prevent batter from overheating. stores or online at ranisworldfoods.com.
MARCH 2024 35
HANDBOOK
F&W COOKS
Shoulder-Season Stunners
Bridge chilly winter nights and the allure of
spring with these satisfying suppers.
EARLY SPRING CALLS FOR DISHES that hint of the warmer weather to come but are still
comforting and hearty enough to carry you through the chill of a late-spring snow. These
recipes from my new cookbook, Cooking in Real Life, are perfect for shoulder season.
Start with Ratatouille Lentil Soup (below), inspired by the Provençal favorite, which is a
filling, veggie-packed meal in any season, but especially when you’re starting to dream
of sunnier days. Next, Orecchiette with White Bolognese (recipe p. 38) is a luxurious
twist on classic Bolognese using pancetta, white wine, and a splash of cream for rich,
savory flavor. Lastly, cozy up to my vegetable-packed take on cassoulet (p. 39) made with
braised white beans and mushrooms for a comforting, slow-cooked supper. —LIDEY HEUCK
Ratatouille Lentil Soup 1. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large pot

ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN over medium-high. Add eggplant; cook,
SERVES 8 stirring occasionally, until starting to
soften, about 5 minutes, adding addi-
This rustic lentil soup is inspired by the fla- tional oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, if egg-
vors of ratatouille, the beloved Provençal plant begins to stick to pot. Add zucchini,
dish of stewed vegetables. Heuck leans on onion, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil.
canned tomatoes and jarred roasted red Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stir-
peppers to bring the same bright flavors ring often, until onion and zucchini are
of the summer favorite to a comforting crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic
soup. A splash of balsamic vinegar and a and oregano; cook, stirring constantly,
handful of basil add a finishing touch of until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
acidity and freshness.
2. Stir in tomato paste; cook, stirring con-
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, stantly, until color darkens to a rusty red,
plus more as needed and for garnish about 2 minutes. Add vegetable broth,
1 eggplant (unpeeled), cut into crushed tomatoes, lentils, roasted red
1/2 -inch cubes (about 6 cups) bell peppers, salt, and black pepper; bring
2 zucchini, cut into 1/2 -inch-thick half- to a boil over high. Reduce heat to low,
moons (about 3 cups) and simmer, uncovered, stirring occa-
1 large yellow onion, chopped (about sionally, until lentils are tender, 40 to 45
2 cups) minutes. Remove from heat.
FOOD STYLING: JULIAN HENSARLING; PROP STYLING: LYDIA PURSELL
2 Tbsp. minced garlic (about 6 garlic 3. Add basil and vinegar; stir until basil is
cloves) wilted, about 30 seconds. Season with
1 tsp. dried oregano additional salt and black pepper to taste.
2 Tbsp. tomato paste Drizzle with olive oil, and garnish with
8 cups lower-sodium vegetable broth basil leaves. Serve hot. —LIDEY HEUCK,
ADAPTED FROM COOKING IN REAL LIFE: DELI-
1 (14.5-oz.) can crushed tomatoes
CIOUS & DOABLE RECIPES FOR EVERY DAY
1 cup uncooked French green lentils,
rinsed MAKE AHEAD Soup can be stored in an
1 (12-oz.) jar roasted red bell peppers, airtight container in refrigerator up to 5
drained and coarsely chopped days or in freezer up to 3 months. Thaw in
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste refrigerator overnight, if frozen, and warm
1/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste over medium-low, stirring occasionally,
before serving.
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil
leaves, plus more for garnish WINE A mineral-driven Grüner Veltliner:
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar 2021 Nikolaihof Hefeabzug

MARCH 2024 37
HANDBOOK
Orecchiette with White 1/2 tsp. black pepper Reduce heat to low; simmer, uncovered,
Bolognese 1 cup dry white wine stirring occasionally, until broth mixture is
1 cup lower-sodium chicken broth or slightly thickened and reduced to about 5
TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN; SERVES 6
water cups, about 15 minutes.
This tomato-free version of Bolognese 1/3 cup heavy cream 3. While Bolognese cooks, bring a large
relies on pancetta, mushrooms, and white 1 lb. uncooked orecchiette pasta pot of salted water to a boil over high.
wine to create a rich, creamy sauce that’s Add pasta, and cook according to pack-
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
just as satisfying as the classic red sauce. age directions for al dente, stirring occa-
Grated Parmesan cheese, for
Any short pasta will work in this dish, but sionally. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta
serving
cup-shaped orecchiette is particularly nice cooking liquid.
for scooping the small crumbles of pork.
1. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium. 4. Add cooked pasta and 1/2 cup reserved

Add pancetta, and cook, stirring often, pasta cooking liquid to Bolognese. Cook
1 (4-oz.) pkg. diced pancetta
until browned, about 6 minutes. Add over low, stirring constantly, until a
8 oz. cremini mushrooms, cut into mushrooms, and cook, stirring occasion-
1/2 -inch pieces creamy sauce forms and coats pasta,
ally, until liquid released by mushrooms about 3 minutes, adding remaining 1/2 cup
4 small carrots, peeled and cut into has mostly evaporated, about 4 minutes.
1/2 -inch pieces (about 1 1/2 cups)
pasta cooking liquid as needed to loosen
Increase heat to medium-high; add car- sauce. Season with salt to taste. Divide
1 medium-size yellow onion, chopped rots, onion, celery, butter, fennel seeds, evenly among serving bowls, and sprinkle
(about 1 1/3 cups) oregano, salt, and crushed red pepper;
with parsley and cheese. —LIDEY HEUCK,
3 celery stalks, trimmed and chopped cook, stirring occasionally, until vegeta-
ADAPTED FROM COOKING IN REAL LIFE: DELI-
(about 1 cup) bles are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Add gar-
CIOUS & DOABLE RECIPES FOR EVERY DAY
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter lic, and cook, stirring constantly, until
fragrant, about 1 minute. MAKE AHEAD Bolognese can be prepared
1 tsp. fennel seeds
through step 2, cooled, and stored in an
1 tsp. dried oregano 2. Add pork and black pepper; cook, stir-
airtight container in refrigerator up to 3
ring constantly with a wooden spoon to
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste days. Bring to a simmer over low, and
break meat into small pieces, until
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper proceed with step 3 as directed.
browned, about 4 minutes. Add wine, and
2 Tbsp. minced garlic (about 6 cloves) bring to a simmer over medium-high. Add WINE A fresh, citrusy Italian white: 2022
1 lb. ground pork broth and cream, and return to a simmer. Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio
38 MARCH 2024 photography by HEAMI LEE

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Soak porcini
mushrooms in 3 cups very hot water for
about 20 minutes. Remove mushrooms
from water, squeezing over bowl to
extract liquid. Finely chop rehydrated
mushrooms; set aside. Line a fine wire-
mesh strainer with cheesecloth, and set
strainer over a medium bowl. Pour mush-
room liquid through strainer; discard sol-
ids, and set soaking liquid aside.
2. Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter
in a Dutch oven over medium-low. Add
onion, and cook, stirring occasionally,
until beginning to caramelize, 10 to 15
minutes. Add cremini mushrooms, car-
rots, celery, and remaining 2 tablespoons
butter. Increase heat to medium, and
cook, stirring occasionally, until vegeta-
bles begin to soften, 6 to 8 minutes. Add
garlic and thyme; cook, stirring con-
stantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add
tomato paste; cook, stirring occasionally,
until color darkens to a rusty red, 2 to 3
minutes. Add wine, and stir, scraping up
any browned bits from bottom of Dutch
oven. Add reserved mushroom soaking
liquid, chopped porcini mushrooms, white
beans, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon
black pepper; bring to a boil over high.
Reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, 5 minutes.
3. Transfer Dutch oven to preheated oven,
and bake, uncovered, until a crust forms
White Bean and Mushroom 3 large celery stalks, trimmed and on top of bean mixture (surface of beans
Cassoulet cut into 1/4 -inch pieces (about 1 cup) will look dry), about 45 minutes. Remove
2 Tbsp. minced garlic (about 6 garlic from oven, and stir to break up crust. Stir
ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 30 MIN
cloves) in sherry. Return to oven, and bake at
SERVES 4 TO 6
325°F until crust is re-formed and most
2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

liquid has evaporated, about 45 minutes.
Heuck’s vegetable-packed riff on French 1 Tbsp. tomato paste
cassoulet uses a combination of dried por- 1/2 cup dry white wine 4. Meanwhile, toss together panko and oil
cini and fresh cremini mushrooms to add in a medium bowl. Stir in Gruyère, parsley,
3 (15-oz.) cans white beans, drained
depth and umami, allowing the creamy remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining
and rinsed (such as Great Northern 1/4 teaspoon black pepper.
white beans to really shine. or cannellini)
1 Tbsp. plus 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, 5. Increase oven temperature to broil.
1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
divided Sprinkle panko mixture evenly over sur-
3 cups very hot water 1/2 face of cassoulet. Broil until panko is
tsp. black pepper, divided
1/4 cup unsalted butter (2 oz.), divided golden brown and cheese is melted, 5 to 8
3 Tbsp. dry sherry
1 yellow onion (such as Vidalia), minutes. Let cool 10 minutes before serv-
chopped (about 2 cups) 2 cups panko ing. —LIDEY HEUCK, ADAPTED FROM COOK-
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ING IN REAL LIFE: DELICIOUS & DOABLE
8 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms, cut
into 3/4 -inch pieces 3 oz. Gruyère cheese or Comté RECIPES FOR EVERY DAY
3 small carrots, peeled and cut into cheese, shredded (about 3/4 cup) WINE A savory Rhône red: 2021 Chateau
1/4 -inch pieces (about 1 cup) 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley de Saint Cosme Gigondas
photography by VICTOR PROTASIO MARCH 2024 39

HANDBOOK
1 minute. Remove from heat. Transfer

cashew mixture to a large heatproof bowl
using a slotted spoon or spider, reserving
oil in wok.
4. Place wok over high heat. Working in 2
CHEF-INSPIRED batches, add chicken in an even layer, and
cook, flipping once, until chicken is deeply
Rule the Roost Roasted, poached, stir-fried, browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 min-
utes per side, adjusting heat if needed to
and smoked—any way you cook it, chicken prevent overbrowning. Transfer chicken to
bowl with cashews. Meanwhile, whisk
is the star of these weeknight winners. together 2 tablespoons water and remain-
ing 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch in a small bowl
until smooth; whisk in oyster sauce, brown
Cashew Chicken 15 dried Thai chiles
sugar, and remaining 1 tablespoon soy
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR; SERVES 4 2 Tbsp. water
sauce until sugar is dissolved. Set aside.
1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. oyster sauce (such
Inspired by the popular dish at Best as Lee Kum Kee) 5. Add scallions, onion, and remaining 1 1/2
Quality Daughter in San Antonio, this take teaspoons oil to wok; cook over medium-
1 Tbsp. light brown sugar
on cashew chicken is derivative of the Thai high, stirring often, until onion is crisp-
6 scallions, trimmed and cut tender, about 4 minutes. Return chicken
version, which is slightly less sweet than
crosswise into 2-inch pieces
the Chinese American style. Pieces of ten- and cashew mixture to wok; add oyster
1 small white onion, sliced (about 1
FOOD STYLING: JULIAN HENSARLING; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY
der chicken thigh are stir-fried with scal- sauce mixture. Cook over medium-high,
cup) stirring constantly and scraping bottom
lions and cashews, lightly glazed in a
chile-studded sauce, and served with Steamed white rice, for serving of wok to loosen any browned bits, until
steamed white rice for a dynamite week- sauce thickens slightly and glazes
night dinner. 1. Toss together chicken, wine, 1 table- chicken, 20 seconds to 1 minute. Remove
spoon soy sauce, Chinese five spice, and from heat; serve immediately with rice.
1 1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken garlic in a large bowl. Cover and refriger- —LIZ MERVOSH
thighs, trimmed and cut into ate at least 20 minutes or up to 5 hours. MAKE AHEAD Chicken thigh pieces can
1 1/2 - x 1/2 -inch pieces
2. Sprinkle chicken with 1/3 cup corn- marinate, covered, in refrigerator up to
1 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine (see Note) 5 hours.
starch; toss to coat. Place chicken pieces
2 Tbsp. soy sauce, divided
in a single layer on a large plate; set aside. WINE A gingery Gewürztraminer: 2021
1/2 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder Lucien Albrecht Réserve
3. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large wok or stain-
1/2 tsp. grated garlic (about 1 clove)
less steel skillet over medium. Add NOTE Shaoxing wine, a slightly sweet
1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp. cornstarch, divided cashews, and cook, stirring constantly, Chinese rice wine, is available at most
4 1/2 Tbsp. canola oil, divided until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add Asian grocery stores or online at
1 cup raw whole cashews chiles, and cook, stirring constantly, bokksumarket.com.

Kou Shui Ji (Mouthwatering 4 large garlic cloves, divided 2. Grate remaining 1 garlic clove into a
Chicken) 2 (1 1/4 -lb.) bone-in, skin-on split small bowl. Whisk in chile oil, chile crisp,
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 25 MIN, PLUS chicken breast halves vinegar, sugar, grated ginger, ground pep-
1/3 cup chile oil (see Note) percorns, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt
3 HR CHILLING; SERVES 4
until salt is dissolved; set aside.
2 Tbsp. spicy chile crisp (such as Lao
Perched on a bed of shaved fennel and Gan Ma) (see Note) 3. Remove chicken from broth, and trans-
swimming in mouth-tingling chile oil, this 1 1/2 Tbsp. Chinese black vinegar (see fer to a cutting board. Pour broth through
chilled chicken is bursting with flavor. Note) or rice vinegar a fine wire-mesh strainer into a large
Inspired by NYC’s Silver Apricot’s take on 1/4 tsp. granulated sugar saucepan; discard solids. Cook rice noo-
the traditional Szechuan dish, chicken dles in broth according to package direc-
4 oz. uncooked dried rice vermicelli
breasts are poached in an aromatic broth tions. Drain noodles, and rinse under cold
that then doubles as the cooking liquid for 1 1/2 cups thinly shaved fennel (from
running water.
1 bulb)
rice vermicelli. It’s worth seeking out Chi-
Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish 4. Place fennel on a serving platter.
nese black vinegar to bring a touch of fruity
Remove chicken breasts from bones;
sweetness and umami to the spicy sauce.
1. Stir together 2 quarts water, scallions, discard bones. Cut chicken crosswise into
1/2-inch slices; place on top of fennel.
2 qt. water sliced ginger, wine, 2 tablespoons salt,
whole peppercorns, and 3 garlic cloves in a Spoon chile oil mixture over chicken;
2 scallions, cut crosswise into thirds,
plus thinly sliced scallions for large (5-quart) pot until salt is dissolved; garnish with sliced scallions and sesame
garnish add chicken, skin side down. Heat over seeds. Serve with noodles. —LIZ MERVOSH
1/4 cup thinly sliced peeled fresh medium-high until water is steaming and MAKE AHEAD Chicken can be prepared
ginger, plus 1/2 tsp. grated peeled small bubbles rise to surface. Cook, reduc- through step 1 and refrigerated, covered
fresh ginger (about a 3-inch piece), ing heat as needed to maintain a simmer, in broth, up to 2 days.
divided until an instant-read thermometer inserted
BEER Crisp and lightly bitter pilsner:
2 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine in thickest portion of chicken registers
Trumer Pils
2 Tbsp. plus 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, 155°F, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer chicken,
divided skin side down, to a large heatproof bowl, NOTE Szechuan peppercorns, chile oil,
1 Tbsp. Szechuan peppercorns, plus and add broth from pot to cover; discard chile crisp, and Chinese black vinegar are
1/4 tsp. ground Szechuan remaining broth. Refrigerate, uncovered, available at most Asian grocery stores or
peppercorns, divided (see Note) until chicken is cold, about 3 hours. online at bokksumarket.com.
MARCH 2024 41
HANDBOOK
flatten. Cut chicken in half lengthwise,

through the breast bone, to separate into
2 halves; pat dry with paper towels.
2. Stir together oil, 2 teaspoons salt,
grated garlic, chopped thyme, chopped
rosemary, and pepper in a small bowl.
Loosen skin on chicken breasts and
thighs with fingers; spoon oil mixture
under skin, and spread evenly over meat.
Transfer chicken, skin side up, to an
aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking
sheet. Sprinkle chicken with remaining
1/4 teaspoon salt.
3. Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in

upper third position. Slide lemon slices
and remaining 3 garlic cloves underneath
chicken on baking sheet, reserving 3
lemon slices for sauce.
4. Roast chicken, with legs pointing
toward back of oven, in preheated oven
until a thermometer inserted in thickest
portion of breast registers 160°F, 35 to 45
minutes. Transfer chicken halves to a
platter, and let rest 10 minutes. Reserve
garlic cloves; discard pan juices and
lemon slices.
5. While chicken rests, melt 2 tablespoons
butter in a medium skillet over medium-
high. Squeeze roasted garlic cloves into
skillet; discard skins. Add reserved 3
lemon slices. Cook, stirring and mashing
garlic cloves with the back of a spoon,
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add
wine, thyme sprigs, and rosemary sprigs;
cook, stirring often, until mixture thickens
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

Chicken al Limone 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme, plus 2
thyme sprigs, divided, and more slightly and looks creamy, about 2 min-
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 15 MIN utes. Add stock, and return to a simmer
for garnish
SERVES 4 over medium-high. Simmer, swirling skil-
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary, plus 2
rosemary sprigs, divided, and more let often, until sauce lightly coats the back
Chicken and lemon are always a winning for garnish of a spoon, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in remain-
combination, and this recipe, inspired by a ing 2 tablespoons butter until melted.
1/4 tsp. black pepper
dish at Bad Roman in NYC, is no different. Remove and discard herb sprigs.
2 Meyer lemons, cut into ¼-inch-
Simply seasoned with garlic and herbs, thick slices 6. Spoon sauce and lemon slices over
these crisp-skinned roast chicken halves chicken. Garnish with thyme and rosemary
1/4 cup unsalted butter (2 oz.), divided
are served over a buttery pan sauce with sprigs. Serve immediately. —LIZ MERVOSH
1/3 cup dry white wine
tender, slightly sweet Meyer lemon slices. MAKE AHEAD Chicken can be prepared
1/2 cup unsalted chicken stock
through step 2 and stored in refrigerator,
1 (4-lb.) whole chicken
1. Place chicken, backbone side up, on a uncovered, up to 24 hours. Proceed with
2 Tbsp. olive oil step 3 as directed, letting chicken stand
baking sheet. Using kitchen shears, cut
2 1/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided along each side of backbone; remove and at room temperature while oven preheats.
1 tsp. grated garlic, plus 3 unpeeled discard backbone. Flip chicken breast WINE An apple-inflected, floral white:
garlic cloves, divided side up, and push down on breast to 2022 Pieropan Soave Classico
42 MARCH 2024 photography by GREG DUPREE

i n f r o z e n
With a little help from Alexia®, finding harmony between

sweet and savory has never been more effortless. Just twenty
minutes and a hint of sea salt are all these sweet potatoes need
to bring a fresh, distinctive variation of flavor to the classic
French fry. All without any GMOs or superfluous additives.
AlexiaFoods.com
HANDBOOK
Loaded Baked Potatoes with 1/2 cup cooked and crumbled thick-cut 3. Meanwhile, make the white barbecue
Smoked Chicken bacon (about 4 slices) sauce: Whisk together mayonnaise, vin-
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley egar, hot sauce, sugar, Worcestershire
sauce, salt, pepper, garlic powder, and
SERVES 4 WHITE BARBECUE SAUCE
onion powder in a small bowl until
1 cup mayonnaise smooth. Cover and chill until ready to use.
Overflowing with toppings, these loaded
baked potatoes live up to their name. Pull- 3 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
4. Finish the baked potatoes: Cut a
ing inspiration from chef Rodney Scott’s 2 tsp. hot sauce lengthwise slit down center of each potato
restaurant, Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog 1 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar about three-fourths of the way through;
BBQ, the potatoes are stuffed with smoked 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce squeeze sides to open up potato. Top
chicken and doused with white barbecue potatoes evenly with sour cream, butter,
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
sauce. This mayonnaise-based sauce will chicken, cheese, and bacon. Drizzle 2
be your new go-to for everything from fried tablespoons sauce over each potato, and
okra to grilled chicken wings.
1/2 tsp. garlic powder garnish with parsley. Serve immediately
1/2 tsp. onion powder with remaining sauce. —LIZ MERVOSH
BAKED POTATOES
MAKE AHEAD White barbecue sauce, also
1. Make the baked potatoes: Preheat
4 large (1-lb.) russet potatoes, known as Alabama white sauce, can be
scrubbed and patted dry oven to 400°F. Prick potatoes all over
stored in an airtight container in
using a fork. Rub potatoes evenly with oil;
1 Tbsp. olive oil refrigerator up to 1 week. Try leftover
sprinkle all over with salt and pepper.
1 tsp. kosher salt sauce on grilled or roast chicken or pulled
2. Place potatoes directly on center rack pork sandwiches.
in preheated oven; place a sheet of alumi-
1/4 cup sour cream WINE A fresh, tangy Chablis: Domaine
num foil on lower rack to catch any drips.
1/4 cup unsalted butter (2 oz.), softened Bernard Defaix Premier Cru Fourchaume
Roast until potatoes are tender when
12 oz. pulled smoked chicken (about 2 pierced with a paring knife, about 1 hour NOTE Smoked chicken is available at most
cups) (see Note) and 15 minutes, flipping once. Remove local barbecue restaurants, or try
2 oz. sharp yellow cheddar cheese, potatoes from oven, and transfer to a cut- shredded rotisserie chicken for a less
shredded (about 1/2 cup) ting board; let cool 10 minutes. smoky substitute.

GOOD TASTE RUNS
IN THE FAMILY
M A D E W I T H M I L K F R O M G R A S S - F E D C O W S T H AT
G R A Z E O N T H E L U S H PA S T U R E S O F I R E L A N D.
HANDBOOK
MOST WANTED
Sticky Notes Classic British sticky toffee

pudding gets an American-style makeover
thanks to whiskey and Coca-Cola.
IN THE UNITED KINGDOM, “pudding” refers not to thick toffee sauce gets a revamp in the hands of
RECIPE FROM
the spoonable, sweet, custardlike desserts we enjoy 2023 F&W Best New Chef Ed Szymanski of Dame
DAME on this side of the Atlantic, but to any number of and Lord’s in New York City. In Szymanski’s rendi-
New York City sausages, pies, quick breads, or sponge cakes that tion, chopped dates are soaked in Coca-Cola
are steamed, boiled, or baked. For Brits, puddings (which imparts surprising notes of vanilla and
can be sweet or savory and prepared in various cinnamon) and then folded into a delicate brown-
forms—think black pudding, steak and kidney sugar sponge cake batter. His gooey toffee sauce
pudding, Yorkshire pudding, and Christmas or starts with cream and dark brown sugar that’s
plum pudding (“plum” in this case meaning dried “heavily toasted,” says Szymanski, warning to “be
fruits that aren’t plums). Wordsmiths like me who careful not to burn.” Smoky whiskey adds com-
harbor a fondness for delicious food appreciate that plexity to the vanilla and caramel flavors. A dollop
British “pudding” requires context. of ice cream offers a cooling contrast to the rich,
I was delighted to recently encounter a new con- glossy, slightly boozy caramel sauce. It’s elegant
text for sticky toffee pudding: The classic British and comforting all at once—just what the season
dessert of sponge cake with dates capped in a shiny, calls for. —DIANA PEREZ
Whiskey-Cola Sticky Toffee WHISKEY-CARAMEL SAUCE ending with flour mixture and beating until
Pudding 1 1/2 cups heavy cream just combined after each addition, 2 to 3
minutes. Transfer batter to prepared pan,
ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 20 MIN 1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise,
seeds scraped and spread evenly. Bake in preheated oven
SERVES 12
until a wooden pick inserted in center
1 2/3 cups packed dark brown sugar
Drenched in whiskey-caramel sauce and comes out clean, 16 to 20 minutes.
1 2/3 cups unsalted butter
topped with vanilla ice cream, this sweet 3. Meanwhile, make the whiskey-caramel
2 1/2 Tbsp. (1 1/4 oz.) whiskey
and sticky dessert from 2023 F&W Best sauce: Combine heavy cream and vanilla
New Chef Ed Szymanski is nothing short of 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
bean and seeds in a small saucepan; cook
decadent. Chopped dates are soaked in ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS over medium-low, stirring occasionally,
cola and spices for an extra rich and moist Flaky sea salt, for garnish until steaming, 8 to 12 minutes. Remove
pudding with a tender crumb. from heat; discard vanilla bean pod.
Vanilla ice cream, for serving
PUDDING
4. Cook brown sugar and butter in a large
1. Make the pudding: Bring cola, dates,
FOOD STYLING: JULIAN HENSARLING; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY
saucepan over medium, whisking often,

1 (12-oz.) can cola soft drink (such as ginger, and nutmeg to a boil in a saucepan until toasted and caramel-colored, 6 to 8
Coca-Cola) over medium-high, stirring occasionally. minutes. Whisk in warm cream mixture
8 oz. pitted dates, roughly chopped Stir in baking soda. Remove from heat, and until smooth and combined. Remove from
(about 1 cup) let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. heat. Whisk in whiskey and kosher salt.
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 13- x 5. Pour 1 cup hot whiskey-caramel sauce
1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg 9-inch baking pan with parchment paper, evenly over warm pudding; let stand 10
1 tsp. baking soda and lightly grease parchment with butter.
minutes. Cut into servings, and sprinkle
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar Beat brown sugar and butter with a stand
with flaky sea salt. Serve with ice cream
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on
1/3 cup unsalted butter, softened, plus and remaining whiskey-caramel sauce.
more for greasing medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4
—ED SZYMANSKI, DAME, NEW YORK CITY
minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well
2 large eggs, at room temperature
after each addition. Whisk together flour, MAKE AHEAD Leftover pudding and sauce
2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour (about kosher salt, and baking powder in a bowl. can be refrigerated in separate airtight
11 1/3 oz.) containers up to 4 days. Warm pudding at
With mixer running on low speed, gradu-
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt ally add flour mixture in 3 additions alter- 350°F until heated through. Reheat sauce
1 tsp. baking powder nating with cola mixture, beginning and over medium-low until warm.
MARCH 2024 47
ELSEWHERE, A COUPLE
IS CLINKING GLASSES OF
A CAB POURED FROM A
BOX IN THEIR KITCHEN.
Banner Elk Plan your trip to North Carolina at visitnc.com

BOTTLE SERVICE
C O C K TA I L H O U R
Coffee Cocktails These caffeinated

concoctions will keep your party going
(and going, and going).
By Oset Babür-Winter
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: JULIA BAYLESS
A Coffee Delight
(recipe p. 50) takes
cocktail hour right
into dessert.
produced by RAY ISLE photography by FREDERICK HARDY II MARCH 2024 49

BOTTLE SERVICE
Coffee Delight
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 1
With caramel sweetness from

aged rum and rich Cognac and
a healthy scoop of vanilla ice
cream, this coffee cocktail is
primed for dessert. While the
comparatively high acidity in
cold brew coffee helps balance
the sweeter notes, any kind of
chilled brewed coffee will work.
1/2 cup cold brew coffee

3 Tbsp. (11/2 oz.) Cognac
(such as Courvoisier)
11/2 Tbsp. (3/4 oz.) dark rum
2 tsp. simple syrup
F
EW COCKTAILS HAVE paved the way for other caffeinated comrades like the 1 scoop vanilla ice cream
espresso martini, whose renaissance is impossible to ignore on restaurant 1 maraschino cherry,
and bar menus across the country. It makes sense: We’re all craving a for garnish
drink that has a kick—and not just an alcoholic one—to keep the conversation
flowing. Or let’s try a slightly less cynical explanation: Coffee is delicious, and Combine cold brew coffee,
it’s surprisingly good at coaxing out the botanicals in a gin or balancing out the Cognac, rum, and simple syrup
in a mixing glass filled with ice.
sweetness of a Cognac. Cocktails that use coffee—a shot of espresso, a cup of cold
Stir until well chilled, about 15
brew, a splash of coffee liqueur—are popping up on bar and restaurant menus from
seconds. Strain cocktail into a
Nashville to Sydney. The creativity spurred by such a simple, universal ingredient rocks glass. Top with ice cream
is inspiring and easy to re-create at home, as these three cocktails show. Each is a and maraschino cherry. Serve
perfect nightcap to linger over at the end of the evening. But if you want to enjoy with a straw. —MARTIN HUDAK,
them over brunch instead, to start your day off in java-jangly style, we won’t tell. MAYBE SAMMY, SYDNEY
50 MARCH 2024
Cold Brew Negroni
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 15
MIN; SERVES 1
At Nashville’s cozy Italian hot

spot Luogo, the Negroni gets
a caffeinated twist. Steeping
coffee grounds in Campari
yields a richer, more intense
liqueur with deep coffee flavor
that pairs perfectly with gin and
sweet vermouth. The addition
of black walnut bitters plays
off the nutty notes of the cof-
fee, but you can use traditional
Angostura bitters if that’s what
you have on hand.
COLD BREW CAMPARI
13/4 cups (14 oz.) Campari

1/4 cup coffee grounds
COCKTAIL
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) gin (such as

Bombay Sapphire)
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) sweet
vermouth
2 dashes black walnut
bitters (such as Fee
Brothers) or Angostura
bitters
1. Make the cold brew Cam-

pari: Combine Campari and
coffee grounds in an airtight
container; steep at room tem-
perature at least 2 hours. Strain
mixture using a coffee filter or a
fine wire-mesh strainer. Trans-
fer to an airtight container;
refrigerate until ready to use.
2. Make the cocktail: Combine
2 tablespoons cold brew Cam-
pari, gin, vermouth, and bitters
in a mixing glass filled with ice.
Stir until well chilled, about 15
seconds. Strain into a rocks
glass filled with ice. —LUOGO,
NASHVILLE
MAKE AHEAD Cold brew

Campari can be stored in an
airtight container in
refrigerator up to 1 month.
MARCH 2024 51
Pineapple-Espresso
BOTTLE SERVICE
Martini
A play on the classic espresso

martini, this cocktail adds a bit
of tropical flair via dark rum,
pineapple juice, and orgeat.
Bartender Martin Hudak
believes that the saying “what
grows together goes together”
should extend to cocktail ingre-
dients, too. Because coffee and
pineapple both grow in tropi-
cal climates, they’re a natural
match for each other.
3 Tbsp. (11/2 oz.) dark rum

(such as Ten To One)
2 Tbsp. espresso, cooled
2 Tbsp. pineapple juice
11/2 Tbsp. (3/4 oz.) coffee
liqueur (such as Mr
Black)
1 Tbsp. orgeat
Dehydrated pineapple
and coffee beans
(optional)
Combine rum, espresso, juice,

coffee liqueur, and orgeat in a
cocktail shaker filled with ice.
Cover; shake well, about 30
seconds. Strain cocktail into
a coupe glass. Garnish with
dehydrated pineapple and cof-
fee beans, if using. —MARTIN
HUDAK, MAYBE SAMMY, SYDNEY
52 MARCH 2024
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BOTTLE SERVICE
2022 SEPP MOSER

GRÜNER VELTLINER VON
DEN TERRASSEN ($24)
Nikolaus Moser is unusual in
that he makes wines both in
a classical and in a natural
style. His traditional von den
terrassen Grüner is always
a spot-on expression of
the variety, its vivid acidity
supporting crisp, tree-fruit
flavors. (Natural-wine fans
should try his hazy, orange-
scented Minimal Grüner.)
2021 STEININGER GRAND

GRÜ GRÜNER VELTLINER
($30)
Karl and Brigitta Steininger
organically farm 135 acres
in Austria’s Kamptal region,
inland from the Danube. This
lovely white suggests orchard
fruits with a hint of pineyness;
it lingers and lingers on the
palate, too. (Plus, the name
wins on cleverness points.)
2021 WEINGUT KNOLL

GRÜNER VELTLINER
LOIBNER FEDERSPIEL
($38)
Emmerich Knoll and his wife,
Anja, make some of Austria’s
most sought-after wines;
look for the dramatic image
of St. Urban, the patron saint
W H AT TO D R I N K N O W of grape growers, on their
labels. What’s in the bottle is
Springtime in a Bottle what really matters, though,

like this seductively aromatic,
pinpoint-precise Grüner.
Austrian white wines are the
perfect thing to open as the days GRÜNER VELTLINER 2021 EBNER-EBENAUER
RIED HERMANSCHACHERN
get brighter and warmer. 2021 LETH RIED GRÜNER VELTLINER ($40)
STEINAGRUND GRÜNER Tingly and zingy, this fragrant
By Ray Isle VELTLINER ($19) Grüner has notes of white
Although Austria’s Wagram pepper, nectarine, and
THE WAY I SEE IT, there’s not much better in life than sitting outside region, just outside of grapefruit peel. Winemaker
Vienna on the Danube, isn’t Manfred Ebner-Ebenauer’s
at a Viennese heuriger, or wine café, on a crisp Austrian spring day,
as famous as Kremstal or family has been growing
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

under the vine arbors, sipping Grüner Veltliner and snacking on Wachau farther downriver, vines for 14 generations,
spicy Liptauer cheese and bread. Now, I recognize it is impossible producers like Leth are draw- and the family’s 400-year-
to do that when one is not in Austria; Vienna, no matter how hard ing attention to it with wines old cellar in Poysdorf is
like this floral, grapefruity, still the source for all of
one wishes for it to be the case, is not in the U.S. But a porch, a little
effortlessly balanced white. their wines.
springtime weather, and a glass of Austrian white make a mighty nice
workaround. (You can fake the Liptauer by mashing up cream cheese 2022 DOMÄNE WACHAU SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG
or quark with a little Hungarian paprika, chopped capers, minced GRÜNER VELTLINER TRADITION 3 YEARS
onion, and caraway seeds; a little softened butter never hurts, either.) FEDERSPIEL ($20) EDITION 851 ($48)
And it’s a great time to try the two great white wines of Domäne Wachau manages Winemaker Michael Moos-
Austria: Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Winemaker Fred Loimer says, almost 30% of the vineyards brugger’s “Tradition” project
in the famed Wachau region aims at making wines as
“We’re lucky and happy at the moment—2021 was a great vintage,
(a UNESCO World Heritage was done in the early 1800s:
2019 and 2020 were both good, the ’22 Grüners were very good, and Site) and makes a bevy of fermenting in oak (rare in
the ’22 Rieslings are fabulous.” For me, these are the ideal wines of impressive wines from them. Austria now), basket-pressed
springtime: Riesling with its mountain-stream clarity of flavor, The term federspiel des- grapes, and blends of vin-
ignates dry Wachau wines tages. This full-bodied and
Grüner with its characteristic light hint of fresh green herbs, in a way
between 11.5% and 12.5% savory edition blends 80%
recalling the first green shoots of the new season. Here are some alcohol; this one offers a lot of Grüner and 20% Riesling
favorites to seek out. intensity for the price. from 2018, 2017, and 2016.
54 MARCH 2024 photography by FREDERICK HARDY II

RIESLING
2022 INGRID GROISS 2022 WIENINGER 2022 LOIMER
BRAITENPUECHTORFF NUSSBERG RIESLING LANGENLOISER RIESLING
RIESLING ($19) ($20) ($28)
The Groiss family has farmed Located within the city limits Fred Loimer is one of the
grapes in lower Austria for of Vienna, Wieninger is known Kamptal region’s top produc-
centuries. Today, that work for its traditional Gemischter ers, and his wines, from his
is overseen by the talented Satz white blends, but Fritz affordable Lois Grüner to
Ingrid Groiss. Among the Wieninger, the owner and his single-vineyard bottlings,
wines she produces is this winemaker, has an equally are all excellent. This palate-
laser-sharp dry Riesling, its deft hand with Riesling. This whetting, sleek white is a stel-
aromas suggesting lemons pretty, lime-zesty dry wine is lar dry Riesling, full-bodied yet
and spring flowers. ample proof of that. weightless at the same time.
2021 NIKOLAIHOF VOM 2019 SALOMON UNDHOF 2022 HIEDLER

STEIN RIESLING RIED STEINER KÖGL HEILIGENSTEIN RIESLING
FEDERSPIEL ($40) RIESLING ($45) ($58)
Nikolaihof is truly ancient, Kremstal-based Salomon Hiedler has been family-
and as Nik Saahs, whose Undhof was the first Austrian owned since the mid-1800s,
family owns the winery, once winery to export to the U.S., and in 1906, the Archduchy
said to me, “How astounding back in the 1930s; their quality of Austria honored them for
to be in a cellar where 1,800 has been uniformly high for their wine’s quality. World War
years ago someone was also decades. This single-vineyard I put an end to the archduchy,
filling a cup with wine.” Fill Riesling, rich with melon and but the Hiedlers are still going
your glass with this Riesling, pear fruit, complex and last- strong, and this refined, stony
and you’ll be drinking history. ing, is characteristic. white is a knockout.
MARCH 2024 55
TRAVEL
WHERE TO GO NEXT
Bangkok’s New Turn The next generation

of Thai chefs is reinterpreting ancestral
flavors, with delicious results.
By Chris Schalkx
PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS SCHALKX
Chef-owner Pichaya “Pam”

Soontornyanakij has won local and
international acclaim for her Thai
Chinese restaurant Potong in Bang-
kok’s Chinatown; she is also a regular
judge on Top Chef Thailand.
produced by MELANIE HANSCHE MARCH 2024 57

T R AV E L
A
T POTONG, a Thai Chinese fine-dining spot hidden in Bangkok’s Thai Chinese fine-dining spot Potong
labyrinthine Chinatown, every guest will find a letter to chef-owner opened in 2021 and has won many
awards since for its modern approach to
Pichaya Soontornyanakij’s grandparents beside their plate. “What ancestral food traditions. The restaurant
I am trying to do is not only to save traditional inspiring ingredients from is housed in a building that has been in
being forgotten,” Soontornyanakij writes, “but also to create a bold new chef-owner Pichaya Soontornyanakij’s
genre that still respects the ingredients used back then at your little Thai family for five generations.
Chinese kitchen on the balcony.” The ensuing 20-course tasting menu reads
like a love letter to Soontornyanakij’s ancestors, who for five generations
have run their herbal-medicine business from this timeworn building that
quivers when tuk-tuks rattle through the alley in front. But when rumors of the Michelin Guide’s Thai
One of the first courses is a take on rad na, the rice noodle dish in thick debut started swirling around dining rooms in
gravy cooked in kitchens around the area. Soontornyanakij mimics the 2016, the tide turned. With localized editions of
texture with vinegar jelly and swaps the usual straw mushrooms for morels cooking shows such as MasterChef and Top Chef
and caviar. It’s followed by an herbal crab broth, the aroma of which evokes launching around the same time, a culinary craze
a walk through Yaowarat, Chinatown’s spice shop–lined main drag. Entrées, swept through the city. International awarding bod-
served on a rotating tabletop tray, consist of dry-aged duck, sweet beef char ies started doling out accolades left and right. And
siu, and a Szechuan pepper–spiked take on kai toon (steamed egg custard) though the spotlight was still on foreign gastronomy
layered with minced duck leg that jiggles like mapo tofu. The price? A far in those early days, Thai restaurants such as Nahm,
cry from those inexpensive delights sold just outside. Sorn, and Le Du slowly crept to the top ranks in the
When I traded my native Holland for a new home in Bangkok a decade years that followed.
ago, spending a three-digit sum on a Thai meal was a rare occurrence. For “Diners have become a lot more educated when
those who could afford it, blowout budgets were earmarked for elaborate it comes to appreciating culinary craftsmanship,”
Cantonese banquets served in the gold-trimmed dining rooms of the city’s says food journalist Pruepat Songtieng. “Why does
five-star hotels, or fine French and Eurocentric fusion restaurants set in Thai food always have to be financially humble? Our
the stately wooden villas of Bangkok’s swankiest neighborhoods. Diners cuisine is rooted in more than a thousand years of
who did splurge on Thai cuisine mostly had the opportunity to do so at heritage and history. It takes great effort to make a
restaurants serving royal Thai tasting menus, the type of hyper-refined fine curry paste, which is just as difficult as master-
cooking—think delicately plated river prawns, ornately carved fruits, and ing a good béchamel, if not more difficult. People
one-bite appetizers wrapped in betel leaf and lotus petal—with roots in the are now less shy to put Thai craft as equal to any
royal palace kitchens of 14th- to 18th-century Thailand. popular cuisine in the world.”
58 MARCH 2024
clockwise from left: Funky
rooftop spot Rongros serves a
vibrant array of noodle dishes,
grilled meat, and seafood; hip
juice bar F.V highlights sustain-
ability; Sri Trat focuses on cui-
sine from Eastern Thailand.
At Kader’s latest venture, Wana Yook, set in a 100-year-old lemon-yellow

mansion in the bustling Ratchathewi district, he riffs on Thailand’s ubiq-
uitous khao gaeng curry-and-rice counters, which during breakfast and
lunchtime fill streets around the country with the metallic clatter of ladles
scooping brightly colored curries and spicy stir-fries over heaps of rice. On
a recent visit, Wana Yook’s maître d’ proudly explained the origins of each
This fresh mindset—along with bigger budgets— hyper-local rice variety that the 12 courses of chile-laden tom jiw beef soup
emboldened a new wave of young Thai chefs like and sour chamuang pork curry were paired with.
Soontornyanakij to start spotlighting the recipes of These days, Bangkok is also home to a fancy iteration of almost every
their heritage. No longer were European degusta- regional Thai cuisine you could point your compass at. The aptly named
tion menus the only route to financial success and North, on a quiet side street in the Lower Sukhumvit district, makes dishes
culinary stardom. Historical cookbooks and regional from Thailand’s northern provinces the centerpieces of the menu, while
street-food staples suddenly became the inspiration Supaksorn Jongsiri’s hot-ticket Sorn has bagged two Michelin stars for
for samrub-style (Thai shared dining) menus that its Southern Thai tasting menus. At Sri Trat, a portrait of the proprietor’s
could carry just as much cachet. Eastern Thai matriarch peers over the teak-accented dining room, where
The shift also spurred a renewed appreciation and customers enjoy the kind of seafood-centric soups and relishes she shared
demand for local produce. “In the past, we used to with her family. And at Zao, a concrete-clad wine bar and restaurant in the
have this belief that imported ingredients were al- hip Ekkamai district, owner Eve Nutthida Palasak turns to garlic-flecked
ways better and gave you a higher ranking on the pla yon (deep-fried freshwater fish) and a dozen or so som tum varieties
social ladder,” says Chalee Kader, who was one of the with punchy pla ra (fermented fish paste) to set the record straight on
first high-profile chefs to zero in on Thai-raised meat Northeastern Thai cooking. “Many people think Isan food is too spicy and
at his nose-to-tail restaurant 100 Mahaseth, which unsophisticated,” she says. “But the dishes I grew up with were actually
opened in 2017. “Now, chefs are sourcing hard-to- very complex, with lots of herbs and ingredients you won’t easily find in
find and high-quality local ingredients from every Bangkok markets.”
corner of the country, which are given importance All over the city, chefs are drawing on traditional flavors to reflect a new
at the dinner table through a new way of storytelling facet of Thai cooking. “Thai food is one of the best cuisines in the world,”
that never really existed back in the day.” Kader says. “But I feel its true value is just now being realized.”
MARCH 2024 59
T R AV E L
WHERE TO STAY
The Peninsula Bangkok
From the western bank
of the Chao Phraya River,
this grande-dame hotel
offers rooms adorned
with teak, swirls of gold,
and licks of jewel-toned
silk, plus a dazzling view
of downtown Bangkok’s
skyscraper jungle.
(Rooms from $385,
peninsula.com/bangkok)
The Standard
The rooftop bar and pool at The Stan-
Bangkok Mahanakhon
dard hotel. above: The design of the
Stretching from the
charming Baan Tuk Din Hotel, once a
eighth to the 18th floor
private residence, pays homage to the
of the pixelated-looking
building’s century-old history.
King Power Mahanakhon
skyscraper, this fun-filled
property swaps the typi-
cal beige look of most of
Bangkok’s five-star spots
for rooms featuring eye-
popping colors and bold
curves. (Rooms from PHOTOGRAPHY (THE STANDARD HOTEL): COURTESY OF STANDARD HOTELS
$172, standard
hotels.com)
Baan Tuk Din Hotel

Taking over a century-old
home with clapboard
walls, this 19-room
boutique hotel delivers
antique-studded suites
and a jazzy cocktail bar.
Its perch in a small court-
yard just off Dinso Road
puts street-food stalwarts
such as Pad Thai Thipsa-
mai and Jay Fai’s legend-
ary crab omelets within
easy walking distance.
(Rooms from $52, baan
tukdinhotel.com)
60 MARCH 2024
clockwise from top:
Pickled garlic, goji ber-
ries, and cabbage line the
kitchen walls at Potong;
chef David Thompson’s
menu at Aksorn is a love
letter to Thai dishes from
the 1940s to 1970s that he’s
researched since moving
to Bangkok over 30 years
ago; Wana Yook’s chef
Chalee Kader playfully
reimagines Thai curries.
WHERE TO EAT 1940s to 1970s for

multicourse rice-and-
& DRINK curry dinners at this
rooftop spot. Leave
Potong
room for dessert: The
From the stamp-
candle-smoked coconut
size kitchen of a
khanom bites are sub-
five-story historic
lime. (aksornbkk.com)
building, Pichaya Soon-
tornyanakij puts a
Sorn
fine-dining spin on
Tables at this tony
Chinatown’s street- Sri Trat Rongros mixes umami-packed
food classics and spot require bookings
months in advance, Sri Trat’s family-style Pitched up across the cocktails using house-
recipes from her Thai meals draw on recipes river from the Wat Arun made ingredients such
Chinese family. Don’t but those lucky enough
to snag one will be from Eastern Thailand. temple, Rongros’ rooftop as cumin-flavored shrub
miss the bar for an
rewarded with chef The kapi shrimp paste terrace is a sought-after and kombu stock, as well
excellent nightcap.
Supaksorn Jongsiri’s and fish sauce, key spot for cocktails spiked as their own drinking vin-
(restaurantpotong.com)
Southern Thai curries, ingredients in most of the with lao khao (a rice- egars made from Riesling
chargrilled seafood, and dishes, are imported from based Thai moonshine). and sake. (instagram
Zao
indigenous herbs and the Trat province to guar- Stick around for dinner, .com/tax_bar_bkk)
Using ingredients
vegetables. (instagram antee real-deal flavors. which zeroes in on
brought in twice a week
from a wet market in .com/sornfinesouthern) (instagram.com/sritrat) comforting Central Thai F.V
Northeastern Thailand, dishes such as rib eye At this art-studded juice
this restaurant show- North Wana Yook krapow and watermelon bar, creative director
cases Isan cooking with Nam phrik num (chile Chalee Kader pays cubes with sun-dried Opas Chantkam turns
dishes such as som relish), khantoke (curry homage to Thailand’s snakehead fish. blemished fruits and
tum. (instagram.com/ sets), and other staples ubiquitous curry counters (rongros.com) often-exterminated
zaoisan) from Thailand’s moun- in a 12-course menu that weeds such as maiyarap
tainous north inspire the changes with the seasons. Tax Bar (shameplant) into pulpy
Aksorn tasting menus at this Thankfully, the crowd- From the owners of drinks and health-
Australian chef David mansion in the Sukhum- pleasing fish sauce–cured gin-centric Teens of boosting herbal teas.
Thompson, a Thailand vit district. The Wagyu egg yolk on fried-to-a- Thailand (facebook Even the bar’s glassware,
resident since 1988, khao soi from the à la crisp egg-white fluff is a .com/teensofthailand) made from upcycled
draws on his extensive carte menu makes for an permanent fixture. down the street, this beer bottles, stays true
library of Thai culinary excellent lunch. (north- (instagram.com/wana grungy hangout in China- to Chantkam’s eco ethos.
literature from the restaurant.com) .yook) town’s Soi Nana bar hub (instagram.com/fv_bkk)
MARCH 2024 61
CRISPY SESAME
CHICKEN SCHNITZEL
WITH TOMATO
SALAD AND TAHINI
P. 75
Whether you
call it chicken-
fried steak,
serving them with Dijonnaise for dipping. Since we were
used to schnitzel the size of our face in every wirtshaus
(pub) and mountain hut back in Bavaria, this miniature
“schnitty,” as Aussies call it, was quite the novelty in our
household (and perfect for sandwiches).
As an adult, I now cook schnitzel regularly at home
katsu, or
with both veal and pork, and I have tried different meaty
versions while dining out, too. One of the best I have eaten
was made with duck. At his short-lived German Italian
eatery The Marrow in New York City’s West Village, Top
Chef season one winner Harold Dieterle served a duck-
Milanese,
breast schnitzel that was a revelation. Even though it
was over a decade ago, I still remember how succulent it
was. (My husband and I never quite shook the memory
of that schnitzel and now serve a version inspired by it
with brined duck breast at our Bavarian Australian wine
bar, Kabinett, in Easton, Pennsylvania.)
The use of different meats (or indeed vegetables; see the
Sweet Potato Katsu on p. 75) highlights
the beautiful versatility of the universal
crispy breaded cutlets are a globally beloved phenomenon. I dredging and breading technique that
come from a long line of Bavarians; we are a schnitzel people. This results in a perfectly crispy cutlet (see
dish has been a staple at my table ever since I was a corduroy- “Crunch Time,” p. 66). It’s a method
overalls-clad toddler clinging to my mom’s leg as she dredged that lends itself equally well to chicken
thin pieces of meat in flour, dipped them in beaten egg, coated (recipe p. 75) as it does to beef, as in that
them in breadcrumbs, and shallow-fried them in clarified butter distinctly American dish of chicken-
in our tiny kitchen in the German Alps. fried steak (recipe p. 72). And we
Given our proximity to the Austrian border and the Tyrol, haven’t even talked about the breading
my mother’s favorite cutlet to cook was Wiener art (Viennese itself yet—another element that is infi-
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: JILLIAN KNOX
style), with thinly pounded veal steaks that she would serve with nitely customizable, from breadcrumbs
a German-style potato salad; its vinegar-based dressing was a and seeds to cornflakes and nuts. The
great foil for the rich, crispy meat. Occasionally, she’d whip up breading can also be enhanced with
schweineschnitzel, a breaded boneless pork loin chop, instead. fresh herbs, such as chopped thyme or
When we moved to Australia in the early 1980s and my sister rosemary, and different spices. (My mom
was born, my mom changed her approach out of a need for more occasionally liked paprika in the crust.)
convenience. She started using crushed cornflakes rather than You can even coat your meat in mayon-
breadcrumbs, which was simpler, given we always had a box of naise or buttermilk instead of beaten egg
Kellogg’s in our pantry, and it also yielded a crisper result. My to adhere your breading.
all-time favorite version was the one she settled on for parties in With so many exciting ways to create
the 1990s—a mini cutlet made from pork tenderloin. She would and customize the flavors and textures
cut small, thick medallions; coat them in crushed cornflakes; of the perfect cutlet, it’s relatively easy
and shallow-fry them until they were still blush pink inside, for anyone to become a schnitzel person.
MARCH 2024 65
CRUNCH
POUND FOR PERFECTION DREDGE, DIP, PRESS FRY IT RIGHT
Pounding cutlets to even To ensure a firm, crisp Breaded cutlets need
thinness helps tenderize the crust forms during frying between 1/4 and 1/2 inch of oil
TIME
meat and ensures that it will and stays nicely adhered in the skillet to shallow-fry
cook within the few minutes to the meat, follow this to perfect crispiness. That’s
it takes for the exterior standard breading proce- just enough oil to come up
breading to become crisp dure, which can be applied to the sides of the cutlets
and golden brown. That’s to any kind of cutlet. The so they don’t catch on the
A crispy crust encasing a why pounding the meat is first step is to dredge the bottom of the pan, but no
thin and juicy cut of meat a crucial first step. Working meat in flour to create a more. At the optimal tem-
are the characteristics of with one cutlet at a time, dry surface. Next, dip the perature, the thin cutlets
the world’s great breaded place the cutlet between floured cutlet into the eggs will cook on both sides in
cutlets. It sounds easy, two sheets of plastic wrap (or other wet medium such just a few minutes. To check
or parchment paper, or slip as buttermilk)—the flour the oil temperature, drop a
and it is: Simply follow
the meat into a gallon-size will help the eggs adhere to few breadcrumbs into the
these basic steps and
heavy-duty ziplock plastic the cutlet. Make sure to let pan: If the oil is hot enough,
guidelines, which can bag. Pound the cutlet until excess drip off. You want to they will begin to sizzle
be applied to schnitzel, thin using a meat mallet, the have the cutlet well coated immediately. If they drop in
katsu, and more. (Recipes bottom of a heavy skillet, in egg to ensure that the and don’t sizzle right away,
begin on p. 69.) or a rolling pin. Aim for no breadcrumbs bind to the increase the heat. If they
–Cheryl Slocum more than 1/4-inch thickness: cutlet, but not so wet that sizzle but begin to burn
The goal is a piece of meat the breadcrumbs become quickly, lower the heat. After
with a large, flat surface soggy. Finally, press the frying, drain the cutlets on a
area. Season the meat after meat into the breading to wire rack to keep them from
pounding it. (You can pound evenly coat. It helps to keep becoming greasy. You can
meat in advance and store one hand dry, using it only keep fried cutlets warm in
the pounded cutlets between for working with the dry a very low oven, but don’t
sheets of plastic wrap or ingredients, while using the leave them in too long, as
parchment paper in the other hand to dip the cutlets the thin meat can dry out
fridge for up to two days.) in the eggs. over time.
CRISPY CUTLETS IN 6 STEPS
1. Pound meat with a mallet between sheets of 2. Place flour, beaten eggs or buttermilk, and 3. Dredge meat in flour, shaking to remove
plastic wrap or parchment paper to 1/4-inch breadcrumbs in 3 separate large, shallow excess flour.
thickness. (Skip this step for vegetable cutlets.) bowls.
4. Dip floured cutlet evenly in beaten eggs or 5. Press cutlet into breading to evenly coat on 6. Heat 1/4 to 1/2 inch of oil in pan, and shallow-
buttermilk, and let any excess eggs or butter- both sides. Sprinkle and press breading into fry cutlets until golden, a few minutes on each
milk drip off. any lingering bare areas. side. Drain on a wire rack.
66 MARCH 2024
CLASSIC
SCHNITZEL
WITH GERMAN
POTATO SALAD
P. 74
Pork Chop Milanese with 2. Place flour in a large, shallow bowl. Place
Arugula Salad eggs in a second large, shallow bowl. Stir
together breadcrumbs, cheese, Italian
seasoning, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and
Breadcrumbs seasoned with Parmesan remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a third
cheese form a rich, nicely golden, crisp large, shallow bowl.
crust on these rib-cut pork chops. Ask 3. Working in batches, dredge chops in
the butcher to french the chops, or do it flour, shaking to remove excess; dip in egg,
yourself using a sharp knife (see Note). The letting excess drip off. Dredge in bread-
frenched bone looks elegant and also adds crumb mixture, patting to adhere. Transfer
flavor. Be sure to closely monitor and adjust coated chops to a parchment paper–lined
the heat while the pork chops shallow-fry to work surface or baking sheet.
ensure the breading doesn’t burn.
4. Pour canola oil into a large skillet to a
depth of about 1/4 inch; heat over medium-
MILANESE
high until shimmering. Working in batches,
4 (6- to 7-oz.) bone-in rib-cut pork cook chops until golden brown and a ther-
chops (about 1/2 inch thick), mometer inserted near, but not touching,
frenched, fat and membrane the bone registers 140°F, 2 to 3 minutes
removed (see Note), pounded to per side. Place chops on prepared wire rack
1/4-inch thickness
on baking sheet, and sprinkle with salt to
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more taste; transfer to preheated oven to keep
to taste warm while frying remaining chops.
1 tsp. black pepper, divided
5. Make the salad: Combine arugula and
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 21/8 oz.) Parmesan in a medium bowl. Sprinkle with
3 large eggs, beaten salt and pepper, and drizzle with olive oil
1 cup plain breadcrumbs and vinegar; toss to combine. Serve salad
2 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated (about with pork chops. —ANNA THEOKTISTO
1/2 cup)
MAKE AHEAD Pork chops can be frenched
11/2 tsp. Italian seasoning blend and pounded up to 1 day in advance. Wrap
1/2 to 3/4 cup canola oil tightly in plastic wrap, and store in
refrigerator.
SALAD
WINE A layered Italian white blend: 2021
4 cups baby arugula (about 3 oz.)
Borgo del Tiglio Collio Bianco
13/4 oz. Parmesan cheese, shaved (about
1/2 cup) NOTE Frenching, or trimming the meat
from the rib bone, makes for a clean, neat
presentation and also provides a
convenient handle for picking up the chop
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil to eat it, if desired. Pork chops have a thin,
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar tough layer of connective tissue between
the fat and the meat called silver skin.
1. Make the Milanese: Preheat oven to Unlike fat, that membrane won’t melt
200°F. Set a wire rack on a large rimmed during cooking. Removing it and the fat
baking sheet; set aside. Season pork chops before pounding the pork chops helps
evenly with 11/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 tea- ensure that the meat won’t shrink or curl
spoon pepper. during cooking.
Adding Parmesan and dried

herbs to the breading yields a
flavorful, satisfying crust.
MARCH 2024 69
PRETZEL-CRUSTED
CHICKEN SLIDERS
WITH CABBAGE-
APPLE SLAW P. 74
70 MARCH 2024
SWEET POTATO
KATSU WITH
CUCUMBER SALAD
AND YUZU MAYO
P. 75
MARCH 2024 71
Chicken-Fried Steak 2. Place flour in a large, shallow bowl.
with Creamy Gravy Whisk together buttermilk, eggs, and
cayenne pepper in a second large, shallow
bowl. Combine cornflakes and remaining 1
Pantry staples make this country-fried teaspoon salt in a third large, shallow bowl.
favorite a convenient weeknight dish: 3. Working in batches, dredge steaks in
Pre-tenderized cubed steak needs hardly flour, shaking to remove excess. Dip in
any pounding to prep; crushed cornflakes buttermilk mixture, letting excess drip off.
form the crunchy crust; and buttermilk, Dredge in cornflakes, turning to coat and
cream, and flour come together in a flash patting to adhere. Transfer coated steaks
to make a roux-based gravy flavored with to a parchment paper–lined work surface
the pan drippings. or baking sheet.
4. Add oil to a large skillet to a depth of
STEAK 1/4inch; heat over medium-high until shim-
4 (4- to 5-oz.) cubed steaks, pounded mering. Fry steaks, 1 or 2 at a time, until
to 1/4-inch thickness (see Note) golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side,
1/2 tsp. black pepper adjusting heat as needed. Place steaks on
21/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided prepared wire rack on baking sheet, and
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 21/8 oz.) transfer to preheated oven to keep warm
while frying remaining steaks.
1/2 cup buttermilk
2 large eggs 5. Make the gravy: Reserve 3 tablespoons
frying oil. Discard remaining oil; wipe skil-
1 tsp. cayenne pepper
let clean. Heat reserved oil in skillet over
3 cups crushed cornflakes cereal medium. Add flour; cook, stirring constantly,
1 cup canola oil, for frying 1 minute. Whisk in cream, buttermilk, salt,
GRAVY black pepper, and garlic powder. Cook,
stirring constantly, until bubbling and thick-
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
ened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
1 cup heavy cream
6. Serve steaks smothered with gravy
1 cup buttermilk
with green beans alongside, if desired.
1 tsp. kosher salt Sprinkle with black pepper to taste. —ANNA
1/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste THEOKTISTO
1/4 tsp. garlic powder WINE An easygoing, cherry-berry
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT Beaujolais: 2022 Paul Durdilly Les
Grandes Coasses
Steamed green beans (optional)
NOTE Quick-cooking and flavorful, cubed
1. Make the steak: Preheat oven to 200°F. steak is a mechanically tenderized cut
Set a wire rack on a rimmed baking sheet; that’s easily recognizable by its wafflelike
set aside. Sprinkle steaks evenly with black pattern. It’s available in the meat section
pepper and 11/2 teaspoons salt. of most grocery stores.
Crushed cornflakes give this

Southern staple a delightful
crunch, while buttermilk makes
the gravy light and bright.
72 MARCH 2024
MARCH 2024 73
Classic Schnitzel with 4. Make the schnitzel: Preheat oven to 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
German Potato Salad 200°F. Set a wire rack on a rimmed baking 1 tsp. kosher salt
sheet; set aside. Season pork chops evenly
PHOTO P. 67 1/2 tsp. black pepper
with 11/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon
TOTAL 1 HR; SERVES 4 CHICKEN
pepper.
There’s an ironclad rule for schnitzel in 5. Place flour in a large, shallow bowl. Place 12 chicken breast tenders (about 11/2
lb.), cut in half crosswise and
Austria—if it’s made with veal, it’s Wiener eggs in a second large, shallow bowl. Stir
pounded to 1/4-inch thickness
schnitzel, but if it’s made with pork, the together breadcrumbs, thyme, remaining 1
thinly pounded, breaded, and fried meat teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon 1 tsp. kosher salt
is simply called “schnitzel.” Schnitzel is pepper in a third large, shallow bowl. 1/2 tsp. black pepper
sometimes deep-fried, but we found that 6. Working in batches, dredge pork chops
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 21/8 oz.)
shallow-frying—which is easier to do at in flour, shaking to remove excess; dip 1 cup Dijon mustard
home—yields a perfectly crispy cutlet. in egg, letting excess drip off. Dredge in 1/4 cup honey
Fresh thyme in the breading brings a subtle breadcrumb mixture, patting to adhere. 1 large egg
herbal note to these schnitzel, and a finish- Transfer coated chops to a parchment
ing sprinkle of salt just after they come out 4 cups roughly crushed pretzels
paper–lined work surface or baking sheet. (1/4-inch pieces along with smaller
of the pan adds a pleasant pop of salinity to
7. Add oil to a large skillet to a depth of crumbs)
each bite. Bacon, fried crisp and then crum-
bled, enriches the accompanying bright, about 1/4 inch; heat over medium-high until 11/4 cups canola oil, divided, plus more
shimmering. Working in batches, fry chops as needed
tangy potato salad, which can be served
warm or at room temperature. until golden brown, about 3 minutes per ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT
side, swirling pan occasionally. Place schnit-
12 slider buns
zel on prepared wire rack on baking sheet,
POTATO SALAD
and sprinkle with salt to taste. Transfer to
11/2 lb. baby red potatoes, scrubbed and 1. Make the slaw: Combine cabbage, radic-
preheated oven to keep warm while fry-
halved chio, apple, and parsley in a medium-size
ing remaining chops. Serve schnitzel with
4 thick-cut bacon slices, chopped heatproof bowl. Bring vinegar, oil, sugar,
potato salad, and garnish salad with addi-
salt, and pepper to a boil in a small sauce-
1/2 cup sliced scallions (about 3 tional scallions. —ANNA THEOKTISTO
scallions), plus more for garnish pan over high, stirring to dissolve sugar.
MAKE AHEAD Potato salad can be stored Pour hot vinegar mixture over cabbage
2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar in an airtight container in refrigerator up mixture; stir to combine. Set aside until
2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard to 3 days. Serve potato salad warm or at ready to serve.
11/2 tsp. granulated sugar room temperature.
2. Make the chicken: Preheat oven to
11/2 tsp. kosher salt WINE A top-notch, dry German Riesling: 200°F. Set a wire rack on a rimmed baking
1/8 tsp. black pepper 2022 Schloss Lieser-Thomas Haag sheet; set aside. Season chicken evenly
Lieserer Niederberg Helden Grosses with salt and pepper.
SCHNITZEL
Gewächs
4 (6-oz.) boneless pork loin chops, fat 3. Place flour in a large, shallow bowl. Stir
NOTE Pork loin chops have a thin, tough together mustard and honey in a second
and membrane removed (see Note),
pounded to 1/4-inch thickness layer of connective tissue between the fat large, shallow bowl. Transfer 1/2 cup honey
and the meat called silver skin. Removing mustard to a small bowl; set aside. Whisk
21/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
to taste it and the fat ensures that the schnitzel egg into remaining honey mustard in large
can be pounded thinly and won’t shrink bowl. Place crushed pretzels in a third
1 tsp. black pepper, divided
back or curl during cooking. large, shallow bowl.
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 21/8 oz.)
3 large eggs, beaten 4. Dredge chicken pieces in flour, shaking to
Pretzel-Crusted Chicken Sliders remove excess; dip in egg mixture, turning
11/2 cups plain breadcrumbs with Cabbage-Apple Slaw to coat. Dredge chicken pieces in crushed
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves, chopped PHOTO P. 70
pretzels, patting to adhere. Transfer coated
1/2 to 3/4 cup canola oil TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN; SERVES 6 chicken to a parchment paper–lined work
surface or baking sheet.
1. Make the potato salad: Place potatoes Pounded chicken tenders provide a mild,
5. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large skillet over
in a large saucepan, and cover with about 2 juicy contrast to honey mustard and
medium. Working in 4 to 5 batches, fry
inches of salted water. Bring to a boil over crunchy crushed pretzels in these whimsi-
chicken until golden brown, about 2 min-
high. Reduce heat to medium, and boil until cal sliders. You can make the accompanying
utes per side, adjusting heat as needed.
potatoes are fork-tender but not falling colorful cabbage-apple slaw up to a day
Place chicken on prepared wire rack on
apart, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat, ahead of time—it will still be crisp, bright,
baking sheet, and transfer to preheated
and drain well. and fresh.
oven to keep warm while frying remaining
2. Meanwhile, cook bacon in a large skillet chicken. Repeat with remaining chicken,
SLAW
over medium-high, stirring often, until ren- wiping skillet clean and adding 1/4 cup oil
dered and crisp, about 10 minutes. Transfer 2 cups shredded green cabbage (from between batches.
bacon to a paper towel–lined plate using 1 small head)
6. Place 2 chicken pieces on bottom half
a slotted spoon; reserve 2 tablespoons 2 cups chopped radicchio (from 1
of each slider bun. Spread about 2 tea-
bacon drippings. small head)
spoons reserved honey mustard on each
1 Honeycrisp apple, cut into
3. Toss together drained potatoes, scal- top bun half. Top each sandwich with about
matchsticks (about 11/4 cups)
lions, vinegar, mustard, sugar, salt, pepper, 1/3 cup slaw, and sandwich with top bun
bacon, and reserved 2 tablespoons bacon

1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley halves. Serve sliders immediately with
drippings in a large bowl. Set aside at room 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar remaining honey mustard on the side.
temperature until ready to serve. 3 Tbsp. canola oil —ANNA THEOKTISTO
74 MARCH 2024
MAKE AHEAD Slaw can be stored in an and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Sprinkle 2 cups panko
airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 with salt and pepper, and toss. Set aside. 1 Tbsp. ichimi togarashi (see Note),
day. While the cabbage and radicchio will plus more for serving
2. Make the tahini sauce: Whisk together
soften a touch more, the flavor will remain 1/2 to 3/4 cup canola oil
tahini, 3 tablespoons water, lemon juice,
tangy and sweet.
garlic, and salt in a small bowl until smooth. CUCUMBER SALAD
WINE A Chardonnay with citrus and saline Whisk in up to 1 tablespoon additional
1 English cucumber, thinly sliced
notes: 2021 Presqu’ile Santa Barbara water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until sauce is
crosswise (about 21/2 cups)
County creamy and pourable, similar to a thick
3 Tbsp. ponzu
salad dressing. Set aside.
1 Tbsp. rice vinegar
Crispy Sesame Chicken 3. Make the chicken: Preheat oven to
Schnitzel with Tomato Salad 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
200°F. Set a wire rack on a rimmed baking
and Tahini sheet; set aside. Season chicken with 2 1 tsp. kosher salt
PHOTO P. 64 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. YUZU MAYO
TOTAL 40 MIN; SERVES 4 cup mayonnaise
4. Place flour in a large, shallow bowl. 1/2
Place eggs in a second large, shallow bowl. 2 tsp. bottled yuzu juice (see Note)
These dinner plate–size butterflied chicken
Combine panko, sesame seeds, coriander, 1/2 tsp. grated garlic (about 1 clove)
cutlets deliver a generous ratio of crisp
cumin, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and
crust to tender meat. Sesame seeds in the ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT
remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a third
breading toast as the chicken fries; serve
large, shallow bowl; stir to combine. Sliced scallions, for garnish
with a drizzle of garlic-lemon tahini sauce to
reinforce the sesame’s nutty flavor. For a sat- 5. Dredge each piece of chicken in flour,
1. Begin the katsu: Preheat oven to 200°F.
isfying meal, pair the schnitzel with an easy shaking to remove excess; dip in egg,
Set a wire rack on a large rimmed baking
cherry tomato salad—the juiciness of the letting excess drip off. Dredge in panko
sheet; set aside. Bring a large pot of water
tomatoes and the zippiness of the dressing mixture, patting to adhere. Transfer coated
with a steamer insert to a boil over high.
are the perfect foil for the crispy cutlets. chicken to a parchment paper–lined work
surface or baking sheet. 2. Working in batches if needed, add sweet
TOMATO SALAD potato slabs to steamer basket, and cook,
6. Add oil to a large skillet to a depth of
covered, until almost tender, about 10 min-
11/2 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved (about 5 about 1/4 inch; heat over medium-high
utes. Place potatoes in a single layer on a
cups) until shimmering. Working in batches,
paper towel–lined plate; let drain and cool
3 orange sweet mini peppers, thinly cook chicken until golden brown, 2 to 3
15 minutes. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt.
sliced (about 2/3 cup) minutes per side. Place chicken on pre-
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion pared wire rack on baking sheet; transfer 3. Make the cucumber salad: Meanwhile,
to preheated oven to keep warm. Repeat stir together cucumber, ponzu, rice vine-
1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
with remaining chicken, adding more oil to gar, sesame oil, and salt in a medium bowl;
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil set aside.
skillet as needed. Serve with tomato salad,
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
tahini sauce, and lemon wedges. —ANNA 4. Make the yuzu mayo: Stir together
1 tsp. kosher salt THEOKTISTO mayonnaise, yuzu juice, and garlic in a
1/2 tsp. black pepper small bowl; set aside.
MAKE AHEAD Tahini sauce can be stored
TAHINI SAUCE in an airtight container in refrigerator up 5. Finish the katsu: Place flour in a large,
1/4 cup tahini to 3 days. Whisk in additional water as shallow bowl. Place eggs in a second large,
needed to thin sauce before serving. shallow bowl. Stir together panko, toga-
3 to 4 Tbsp. water
WINE An energetic, red-fruited Pinot Noir: rashi, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt in a
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2022 Melville Estate third large, shallow bowl.
1 garlic clove, grated
6. Dredge each potato slab in flour, shaking
Sweet Potato Katsu with to remove excess; dip in egg, letting excess
CHICKEN drip off. Dredge in panko mixture, patting
Cucumber Salad and Yuzu Mayo
4 small (about 8-oz.) boneless, PHOTO P. 71
to adhere. Transfer coated sweet potatoes
skinless chicken breasts, butterflied to a parchment paper–lined work surface
and pounded to 1/4-inch thickness or baking sheet.
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided This vegetarian version of katsu uses 7. Add canola oil to a large skillet to a depth
1 tsp. black pepper, divided Japanese sweet potato, which has a fluffy of about 1/4 inch; heat over medium-high
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 21/8 oz.) texture that makes for crisp, light cutlets. until shimmering. Working in batches, fry
3 large eggs, beaten Togarashi, a Japanese chile blend, adds sweet potatoes until golden, 2 to 3 minutes
color and a spicy kick to the breaded sweet per side. Place potatoes on prepared wire
2 cups panko
potato cutlets. Try serving these with lightly rack on baking sheet, and sprinkle with salt
1 cup sesame seeds to taste; transfer to preheated oven to keep
dressed cucumbers and tangy yuzu mayo.
2 tsp. ground coriander warm while frying remaining potatoes.
2 tsp. ground cumin KATSU Serve katsu with cucumber salad and yuzu
1/2 to3/4cup canola oil, plus more as mayo. Garnish with sliced scallions and
2 large (1-lb.) white sweet potatoes
needed additional togarashi. —ANNA THEOKTISTO
(see Note), peeled and cut lengthwise
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT into 4 (1/2-inch-thick) slabs WINE A fruity-yet-savory California
11/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more sparkling: 2019 Cruse Wine Co. Tradition
Lemon wedges, for serving
to taste
NOTE Find white sweet potatoes, ichimi
1. Make the tomato salad: Toss together
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 21/8 oz.) togarashi, and yuzu juice at Asian
tomatoes, sweet peppers, onion, parsley, oil, 3 large eggs, beaten markets.
MARCH 2024 75
IN HER NEW COOKBOOK, AMRIKAN, FORMER FOOD & WINE RESTAURANT EDITOR KHUSHBU
SHAH SHOWS WHY INDIAN PIZZA SHOULD BE YOUR NEW DINNER PARTY FLEX.
STORY AND RECIPES P H O T O G R A P H Y BY

BY K H U S H B U S H A H E VA KO L E N KO
ZA
R PIZ
E
A NE
P
A RI .8
4
H P
AC
MARCH 2024 77
H
R ANC Y
C H UR C R I SP
AM WITH 6
A D S P. 8
The
SA L E A
H I CKP
C
list
is
long
when it comes to great American inventions—
airplanes, Bubble Wrap—but my favorite of
them all is Indian pizza. It turns out that the
flavor-packed sauces, vegetables, and heavily
spiced proteins from the Indian subcontinent
are particularly delicious when spread across
a chewy pizza crust, blanketed with fistfuls
of cheese, and baked off until perfectly melty.
History tends to credit the invention of
FOOD STYLING: NATALIE DROBNY; PROP STYLING: NIDIA CUEVA; HAIR AND MAKEUP: DANNI KATZ
Indian pizza to Dalvinder “Tony” Multani, the
owner of Zante Pizza and Indian Cuisine, a for-
merly Italian-run pizzeria in San Francisco named after a small that sling pies topped with everything from butter chicken to
Greek island. Multani, who previously made pizzas in New York aloo gobi.
City, took over the aging restaurant in 1986. He kept the pizzas When I started to put together my cookbook, Amrikan, which
and added a full menu of traditional Northern Indian dishes like catalogs and celebrates the foodways of the Indian American
tandoori vegetables, chicken tikka masala, and garlic naan. A diaspora, I knew I wanted to have a chapter dedicated solely to
popular customer request was for Multani to combine his two Indian pizza. There are few combinations that feel so equally
SHOT ON LOCATION AT WESTHOLME HOUSE, LOS ANGELES
menus into one super-menu of Indian pizzas. Multani obliged, Indian and American at the same time and that work so natu-
and his Best Indian Veggie Pizza and Best Indian Meat Pizza were rally without feeling forced. Some might turn their noses up
instant hits. He quickly expanded his offerings, which today at what they may consider to be a “fusion” dish, but the inter-
include a paneer tikka masala pizza that comes topped with section of cultures is where food evolves—and this evolution is
housemade paneer, fresh spinach, and a special masala sauce. particularly delicious.
Multani’s innovation has slowly caught on. Over the past None of the Indian pizza shops across the country have a dedi-
couple of decades, Indian pizza concepts have opened across cated style of crust, so I decided to create my own. I wanted it to
America, including Namaste Pizza in the Bay Area, Pizzawala’s be a simple recipe that didn’t require an overnight rise (because
in Michigan and Illinois, and media darling Pijja Palace in Los I always forget to make dough until the day I actually want to
Angeles, where a steady stream of hopeful diners lines the block make the pizza), and I added cumin and nigella seeds into the
nightly waiting for a table and a chutney-topped pie. There’s dough for additional flavor in each bite. Best of all, you only need
even a chain of Indian pizza shops: Curry Pizza House has sev- a regular home oven for stellar results. (Of course, the brilliant
eral locations across Northern California, Nevada, and Texas thing about Indian pizza is how flexible it is. You can use any
78 MARCH 2024
Author Khushbu Shah (seated,
center) raises a glass with
(clockwise from top left) 2022 F&W
Best New Chef Justin Pichetrungsi,
Joseph Hernandez, Rani Shah,
John Nichols, Monika Sharma
Abbas, Archana Misra Jain, and
Radha Mistry.
Radha Mistry enjoys a
slice of Achari Paneer
Pizza (recipe p. 84).
crust you like: Want to keep it simple? Store-bought naan

will do. Want to go all out with a crust that requires a
48-hour ferment and a fancy pizza oven? Go for it.)
Next is the matter of sauces and toppings. I didn’t want
to just spread leftover Indian food on the crust, cover it
with cheese, and call it a day; the goal was to create pies
with balanced flavor and texture. For the Cheesy Masala
Corn Pizza (recipe p. 84), inspired by one of my favorite
street-food dishes of spicy, buttery, lemony corn, I make
a quick béchamel as the base. The creaminess helps to
counterbalance the heat and the acidity of the corn—and
offers a playful riff on a white pizza. For the Achari Pan-
eer Pizza (recipe p. 84), I like to make a base of Indian-
inspired tomato sauce rippling with fiery Kashmiri red
chile powder and garam masala. I then marinate cubes of
creamy paneer in a mixture of yogurt and whatever achar
(Indian pickle) I have handy, which gives the paneer a rich,
tangy flavor. Additional toppings like pickled jalapeños
and thinly sliced red onion add sharpness, which cuts
nicely through the double cheese (paneer and mozzarella).
While I value a solo pizza dinner, Indian pizza parties
have become my new favorite type of relaxed dinner party.
My approach is simple and surefire. First, I pick a couple
of pizzas to make. Then I fill in the table with a handful of
sides and a couple of desserts (all of which can be found
in my cookbook as well). I like to have a fresh, crunchy
Amchur Ranch Salad (recipe p. 86) on the table—in my - S T YLE 7
R .8
version of pizza math, having vegetables on the table neu-
A N D O O NGS P
T I
tralizes my extravagant use of cheese. This salad includes
C K EN W
super-crispy roasted chickpeas tossed in garam masala C HI
and dressed in ranch with an Indian kick. Tandoor-style
wings (recipe p. 87) are always a hit, super tender and
oozing with flavor thanks to the yogurt-based marinade.
As for dessert, I always like to have multiple options. First
up, a tray of Jaggery and Fennel Crispy Rice Treats (recipe
p. 87) made with fistfuls of candied fennel seeds that add a
gentle anise note to the nostalgic treat. I like to accompany
that with a mango pie (recipe p. 86) with a perfectly jig-
gly, bright orange interior set in a buttery graham cracker
crust. When it comes to drinks, I am a fan of all types of
PHOTOGRAPHY (BOOK): COURTESY OF W.W. NORTON & COMPANY
bubbles—seltzer, soda, and sparkling wine—but there’s no

incorrect choice. The only wrong move, in my book, is
never having an Indian pizza party of your own.
Recipes adapted from Amrikan:

125 Recipes from the Indian
American Diaspora by Khushbu
Shah. Copyright © 2024 by
copyright holder. Used with
permission of the publisher,
W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.
All rights reserved. To preorder,
visit wwnorton.com.
80 MARCH 2024
LA
M ASA 4
H E ESY ZA P. 8
C IZ
O R NP
C
E
N G O PI
MA 6
P. 8
D
E R Y AN RICE
G PY
JA G RIS
L C 7
E N NE T S P. 8
F A
TRE
Cheesy Masala in whole-milk mozzarella until melted, 1 tsp. Kashmiri chile powder
Corn Pizza about 30 seconds. Remove from heat.

Stir in salt, and season with black pepper
PHOTO P. 81
1 tsp. kasoori methi (dried fenugreek
to taste. Set aside. leaves) (see Note) or dried oregano
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 30 MIN
3. Make the pizza: Preheat oven to 500°F 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar
MAKES 1 (9- TO 10-INCH) PIZZA
with a pizza steel or pizza stone placed on
PIZZA
rack in upper third of oven. Place dough
This creamy, cheesy pizza draws inspira-
on a floured pizza peel or rimless bak- All-purpose flour, for dusting
tion from masala corn, an Indian snack
ing sheet. Press dough with fingertips, 8 oz. Basic Indian Pizza Dough
that combines charred corn kernels with
rotating as you work to stretch it into a (recipe p. 86) or 8 oz. store-bought
butter, lemon juice, and chaat masala, a
9- to 10-inch circle. Spread cheese sauce pizza dough
spice blend that includes cumin, coriander,
evenly over dough; top with part-skim 4 oz. low-moisture part-skim
and amchur (mango powder). Here, the
mozzarella and masala corn. mozzarella cheese, shredded
tangy, sweet-hot corn is paired with a won-
(about 1 cup)
derfully gooey mozzarella cheese sauce. 4. Slide pizza from pizza peel onto
1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
For extra heat, add pickled jalapeños; omit hot pizza steel, and bake in preheated
them if you prefer a milder pizza. oven until sides and bottom of crust
1/4 cup pickled jalapeños (optional)
are browned and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Fresh cilantro leaves (optional)
MASALA CORN Remove pizza from oven, and top with
pickled jalapeños and cilantro, if using. 1. Make the marinated paneer: Stir
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Serve hot. —KHUSHBU SHAH, ADAPTED together yogurt and achar in a medium
1 cup fresh sweet corn kernels (from
FROM AMRIKAN: 125 RECIPES FROM THE bowl until well combined. Add paneer
2 ears)
INDIAN AMERICAN DIASPORA cubes, and stir until each cube is well
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
coated. Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes.
1 tsp. chaat masala (such as Rani) WINE A raspberry-scented Oregon Pinot:
(see Note) 2021 Brick House Select 2. Make the tomato sauce: Meanwhile,
heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over
1 tsp. Kashmiri chile powder (see NOTE Kashmiri chile powder is made
Note) medium. Add white onion; cook, stirring
from a variety of red chile from Kashmir.
occasionally, until onion is softened,
1/2 tsp. ground cumin Chaat masala is a sour and spicy
about 3 minutes. Add garlic paste, and
1/2 tsp. kosher salt seasoning blend often used to flavor
cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about
Black pepper, to taste chaat, a broad category of savory
30 seconds. Stir in tomato puree, garam
snacks. Find Kashmiri chile powder and
CHEESE SAUCE chaat masala at most international masala, Kashmiri chile powder, and salt.
grocery stores or online at Reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, stir-
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
burlapandbarrel.com. ring occasionally, until sauce thickens
1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
slightly, about 2 minutes. Remove from
2/3 cup whole milk heat, and stir in kasoori methi and sugar.
1/2 oz. whole-milk mozzarella cheese, Achari Paneer 3. Make the pizza: Preheat oven to 500°F
shredded (about 2 Tbsp.) Pizza with a pizza steel or pizza stone placed on
1/2 tsp. kosher salt PHOTO P. 77
rack in upper third of oven. Place dough
Black pepper, to taste ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 50 MIN on a floured pizza peel or rimless bak-
PIZZA MAKES 1 (9- TO 10-INCH) PIZZA ing sheet. Press dough with fingertips,
All-purpose flour, for dusting rotating as you work to stretch it into a
This flavor-packed pie is topped with 9- to 10-inch circle. Spread tomato sauce
8 oz. Basic Indian Pizza Dough cubes of paneer, a fresh, firm Indian evenly over dough; sprinkle evenly with
(recipe p. 86) or 8 oz. store-bought
cheese with a mild flavor, that's first shredded mozzarella, reserved marinated
pizza dough
tossed in a zesty marinade of yogurt and paneer cubes, and red onion slices.
4 oz. low-moisture part-skim
achar (spicy pickles). The marinated
mozzarella cheese, shredded 4. Slide pizza from pizza peel onto hot
cheese takes on a tangy, piquant edge
(about 1 cup) pizza steel, and bake in preheated oven
that pairs well with the garlicky, garam
1/4 cup pickled jalapeños (optional) until sides and bottom of crust are crisp,
masala– and Kashmiri chile powder–
Fresh cilantro leaves (optional) 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pizza from oven,
infused tomato sauce.
and top with pickled jalapeños and cilan-
1. Make the masala corn: Melt butter tro, if using. Serve hot. —KHUSHBU SHAH,
MARINATED PANEER
in a small skillet over medium. Add corn ADAPTED FROM AMRIKAN: 125 RECIPES FROM
kernels, lemon juice, chaat masala, Kash-
1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt THE INDIAN AMERICAN DIASPORA
miri chile powder, cumin, salt, and black 2 Tbsp. achar (such as Brooklyn
MAKE AHEAD Tomato sauce can be
pepper to taste. Cook, stirring often, until Delhi) (see Note)
stored in an airtight container in
corn is well coated in spice mixture and 2 oz. paneer, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
refrigerator up to 3 days.
heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer
TOMATO SAUCE
to a bowl, and set aside. WINE A rich and fruity rosé: 2022 Las
1 tsp. olive oil Jaras Superbloom
2. Make the cheese sauce: Melt butter 1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
in a small saucepan over medium. Add NOTE Find achar at most Indian grocery
flour, and whisk until mixture turns 1 Tbsp. garlic paste or 3 garlic cloves, stores or online at umamicart.com. Find
minced kasoori methi and Kashmiri chile powder
golden brown, about 1 minute. Slowly
add milk, whisking constantly until
1/2 cup canned tomato puree at most international grocery stores or
sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Stir 1 tsp. garam masala online at nyspiceshop.com.
84 MARCH 2024
Khushbu Shah with guests
Rachel Karten and Joseph
Hernandez (seated),
Monika Sharma Abbas, and
Justin Pichetrungsi
Basic Indian NOTE You can find nutty, peppery
nigella seeds at most Indian and
with parchment paper. Pat chickpeas
dry using paper towels, and place in a
Pizza Dough Middle Eastern markets or online at medium bowl. Add oil, garam masala,
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 50 MIN foodsofnations.com. and salt; stir until chickpeas are evenly
MAKES ABOUT 1 LB. DOUGH coated. Spread chickpeas on baking
Infused with cumin seeds and nigella

Amchur Ranch sheet in a single layer. Bake in preheated
oven, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 35
seeds (also called black cumin or black Salad with Crispy to 40 minutes. Let cool completely on
caraway), this smooth, easy-to-work- Chickpeas baking sheet, about 15 minutes.
with dough yields a golden, pillowy crust PHOTO P. 78
2. Make the amchur ranch dressing:
with crunch around the edges that beauti-
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN Meanwhile, whisk together mayonnaise,
fully complements the flavorful toppings
SERVES 8 sour cream, parsley, amchur, chives, salt,
in Khushbu Shah’s Achari Paneer Pizza
garlic, black pepper, and nigella seeds,
(recipe p. 84) and is sturdy enough Inspired by a salad at Superkhana if using, in a bowl until well combined.
to hold up to the creamy sauce in the International in Chicago, Shah tosses Whisk in milk or water if needed to thin
Cheesy Masala Corn Pizza (recipe p. 84). chopped romaine hearts, Persian dressing.
Be sure to allow one and a half to two cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes in a
hours for the dough to fully proof. The 3. Make the salad: In a large bowl, com-
creamy and tangy mayonnaise-based
recipe makes enough for two pizzas and bine lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, red
homemade ranch dressing enlivened
can easily be doubled if you’re making onion, sunflower seed kernels, half of the
with fresh herbs and amchur. Amchur,
pizza for a bigger crowd. crispy chickpeas (about 3/4 cup), and 1
a fruity seasoning powder made from
cup amchur ranch; toss gently to coat.
dried mangoes, adds a pleasant, balanc-
2/3 cup lukewarm water (95°F to Top with remaining crispy chickpeas, and
ing tang to the rich, creamy dressing.
105°F) serve. —KHUSHBU SHAH, ADAPTED FROM
Garam masala–spiced roasted chick-
1 Tbsp. honey AMRIKAN: 125 RECIPES FROM THE INDIAN
peas and roasted sunflower seeds add
AMERICAN DIASPORA
11/2 tsp. active dry yeast flavor and satisfying crunch to each bite.
2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for MAKE AHEAD Dressing can be stored
greasing bowl CRISPY CHICKPEAS in an airtight container in refrigerator
13/4 cups all-purpose flour (about 81/4 up to 3 days. Chickpeas can be made
1 (15.5-oz.) can chickpeas, drained
oz.), plus more as needed and rinsed up to 1 day in advance and stored in
an airtight container at room
1 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted 1 Tbsp. olive oil
temperature.
1 tsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. garam masala
NOTE Find amchur and nigella seeds at
1 tsp. nigella seeds (optional) (see 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
Note) most Indian grocery stores or online at
AMCHUR RANCH DRESSING foodsofnations.com.
1. Whisk together 2/3 cup water, honey, 2/3 cup mayonnaise
and yeast in a medium bowl, and let 1/3 cup sour cream or whole-milk Mango Pie
stand at room temperature until small Greek-style yogurt PHOTO P. 82
bubbles form, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 Tbsp. minced fresh flat-leaf ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 5 MIN, PLUS
olive oil. Add flour, cumin seeds, salt, parsley
4 HR CHILLING; MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE
and nigella seeds, if using. Stir mixture 11/4 tsp. amchur (see Note)
using a wooden spoon until a shaggy
1 tsp. dried chives Mango pulp combines with cream
dough forms.
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to cheese and gelatin to become a glossy,
2. Knead dough in bowl or on a lightly taste jiggly filling in this easy-to-make pie.
floured work surface until surface of 1 large garlic clove, minced (about Blending the filling gently at a low speed
dough is smooth and consistency is 1 tsp.) helps to prevent air bubbles from form-
slightly tacky without sticking to your ing. Be certain to choose mango pulp
hands, about 6 minutes, adding addi- rather than mango puree; mango pulp
1/4 tsp. nigella seeds (optional)
tional flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, as is thicker and essential for achieving the
(see Note)
needed. Shape dough into a ball, and correct texture to set up the pie.
Milk or water, if needed to thin
transfer to a medium-size greased The homemade graham cracker piecrust
bowl; let stand, covered, at warm room SALAD is full of warm cardamom flavor.
temperature until doubled in size, 1 hour 3 romaine lettuce hearts, chopped
and 30 minutes to 2 hours. Proceed with (about 12 cups) GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST
desired pizza recipe. —KHUSHBU SHAH, 2 Persian cucumbers, thinly sliced 11/2 cups finely ground graham
ADAPTED FROM AMRIKAN: 125 RECIPES crosswise (about 2 cups) cracker crumbs (about 12 graham
FROM THE INDIAN AMERICAN DIASPORA
1 pt. cherry tomatoes, halved cracker sheets)
MAKE AHEAD After shaping dough (about 2 cups) 3 Tbsp. granulated sugar
into a ball, it can be placed in a greased 1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion 1/2 tsp. ground black cardamom
bowl, covered, and stored in refrigera- 1/4 cup salted roasted sunflower seed 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
tor up to 4 days. Allow dough to come kernels (optional) 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
to room temperature, covered, before
proceeding with desired pizza recipe, FILLING
1. Make the crispy chickpeas: Preheat
about 2 hours. oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet 1/4 cup cold water
86 MARCH 2024
1 (1/4-oz.) envelope unflavored dessert. (If you can't find jaggery, you chicken wings are marinated in a mixture
gelatin can substitute dark brown sugar.) of Greek yogurt, garlic and ginger pastes,
11/2 cups mango pulp (from 1 Candy-coated fennel seeds, often served and spices before being oven baked. The
large can) (such as Kesari) after dinner on the way out of any Indian marinade clings to the wings, helping
(see Note) restaurant, add bright pops of color and them develop a char under the broiler
4 oz. cream cheese, softened crunch, along with a light licorice taste. that simulates the effect of cooking in a
1/4 cup sweetened condensed milk tandoor. Cook the chicken wings without
1/2 cup ghee turning so that the top side develops a
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT 1/2 cup unsalted butter (4 oz.) crisp, golden brown skin.
Whipped cream (optional) 1/2 cup packed jaggery (about 21/2
oz.) (see Note) 3/4 cup plain whole-milk Greek-style
1. Make the graham cracker crust: yogurt
2 (12-oz.) pkg. marshmallows
Preheat oven to 350°F. Stir together 2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 (12-oz.) pkg. crispy rice cereal
graham cracker crumbs, sugar, black
(such as Kellogg’s Rice Krispies) 1 Tbsp. garlic paste or 3 garlic
cardamom, and salt in a medium bowl. cloves, minced (about 1 Tbsp.)
Add melted butter, and stir until crumb 1 cup candy-coated fennel seeds
(about 7 oz.) (also sold as fennel 1 Tbsp. ginger paste or 1 (1-inch)
mixture is the texture of wet sand.
candy) (see Note) piece fresh ginger, peeled and
Transfer crumb mixture to an ungreased grated
9-inch pie plate, and spread evenly. 1 tsp. flaky sea salt
1 Tbsp. Kashmiri chile powder (see
Press mixture across bottom and up
1. Line a 13- x 9-inch baking pan with Note)
sides of pie plate using your hands.
Once evenly distributed, use the bottom parchment paper, leaving a 2-inch over- 1 Tbsp. kasoori methi (dried
hang on 2 long sides. fenugreek leaves) (optional) (see
of a dry measuring cup to press and
Note)
compact piecrust. Bake in preheated 2. Melt ghee and butter in a large pot
oven until lightly browned, 10 to 12 min- 2 tsp. kosher salt
over medium. Add jaggery, and cook,
utes. Let crust cool completely, about stirring constantly, until jaggery starts to 11/2 tsp. garam masala
30 minutes. melt, 1 minute and 30 seconds to 2 min- 1/2 tsp. ground coriander
2. Make the filling: Pour 1/4 cup cold utes. Add marshmallows, and reduce 1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
water into a small saucepan, and sprin- heat to low. Cook, stirring often, until
2 lb. chicken wings (flats and
kle with gelatin; let stand 5 minutes. marshmallows melt and become gooey, drumettes separated)
Place saucepan over medium heat, and 4 to 5 minutes. (The final texture should
Vegetable oil
stir until gelatin is fully dissolved, 1 to 2 be thick and creamy.) Remove from
minutes. Combine mango pulp, cream heat, and stir in cereal and candy-coated
1. Stir together yogurt, lemon juice,
cheese, condensed milk, and dissolved fennel seeds until evenly combined.
garlic paste, ginger paste, Kashmiri chile
gelatin mixture in a blender; process at 3. Transfer mixture to prepared baking powder, kasoori methi (if using), salt,
low speed until mixture is smooth and pan, and press into an even layer using garam masala, coriander, and turmeric
well combined, about 30 seconds. a second piece of parchment paper. in a medium bowl until well combined.
3. Pour mango filling into cooled Sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Let stand Add chicken wings, and toss to coat.
piecrust; spread evenly using a rubber at room temperature until set, about 1 Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or
spatula. Refrigerate until firm, about 4 hour. Using parchment paper overhang up to 12 hours.
hours. Garnish pie with whipped cream, as handles, remove cereal mixture from
pan. Cut into squares; serve. —KHUSHBU 2. Preheat oven to 400°F with rack 8
if desired. Slice pie, and serve chilled.
SHAH, ADAPTED FROM AMRIKAN: 125 inches from heat. Line a rimmed bak-
—KHUSHBU SHAH, ADAPTED FROM AMRI-
RECIPES FROM THE INDIAN AMERICAN ing sheet with aluminum foil; place a
KAN: 125 RECIPES FROM THE INDIAN AMERI-
DIASPORA broiler-safe wire rack coated with oil on
CAN DIASPORA
prepared baking sheet. Remove chicken
MAKE AHEAD Pie can be stored in an MAKE AHEAD Treats can be stored in an
from marinade; shake off excess, leav-
airtight container in refrigerator up airtight container at room temperature ing a thin coating of marinade on each
to 3 days. up to 3 days. piece; transfer wings to prepared rack.
NOTE Find mango pulp at most NOTE Find jaggery at most Indian
3. Bake in preheated oven until an
Indian grocery stores or online at grocery stores or online at nyspice
instant-read thermometer inserted in
sayweee.com. shop.com. Find fennel candy at most
thickest portion of chicken registers
Indian grocery stores or online at
165°F, 35 to 40 minutes. Increase oven
desiclik.com.
Jaggery temperature to broil. (Do not remove
chicken from oven.) Broil until wings
and Fennel Tandoor-Style are lightly charred in spots and skin is
Crispy Chicken Wings crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. —KHUSHBU SHAH,
Rice Treats PHOTO P. 80

ADAPTED FROM AMRIKAN: 125 RECIPES
FROM THE INDIAN AMERICAN DIASPORA
PHOTO P. 83 ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 50 MIN
WINE A full-bodied California
ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN SERVES 6
Chardonnay: 2021 Dutton-Goldfield
MAKES 36 SQUARES
Dutton Ranch
This crowd-pleasing recipe takes a page
Crispy rice treats take on a caramellike, from tandoori chicken, an Indian dish NOTE Find kasoori methi and Kashmiri
molasses-y sweetness from jaggery, in which yogurt-marinated chicken is red chile powder at most international
an unrefined cane sugar, in this playful cooked in a tandoor, or clay oven. Here, markets or at nyspiceshop.com.
MARCH 2024 87
Beech Mushroom Salad
with Black Vinegar and Chiles
p. 96
I
O
WHY TAIWAN’S Q TEXTURE
DESERVES A PLACE AT YOUR TABLE
By Cathy Erway
Photography by Heami Lee
MARCH 2024 89
A I
T
scented with five-spice powder
and bobbing with meatballs and
fish balls, is a classic comfort food
from my childhood. Scoop a few
morsels into a bowl along with the
broth, and it’s a perfect snack for
in the Taiwanese oyster omelet, o
ah jian, or tian bu la, a type of fish
O
Red-Braised Beef Shanks (recipe
p. 95), the swirling tendons in the
cake that’s often skewered and driz- leg cook to a clear gel that enriches
both kids and adults. In Taiwan,
zled with a sweet-and-sour sauce. the broth, makes your lips sticky,
you can find this in home kitch-
How was it possible, I later won- and contrasts beautifully with the
ens, night markets, or slow cookers
dered, that these distinct textures tender meat.
in a 7-Eleven convenience store.
could be so satisfying to an entire Naturally bouncy calamari pro-
Texture plays a big role in its enjoy-
society of 23 million people yet vide the perfectly Q variation on
ment; when you slurp the extra-
be virtually unrecognizable to three-cup chicken, a Taiwanese
bouncy fish balls, your jaw will
American palates? Recently, I set braised chicken dish. In Three-
be treated to several seconds of
off to see whether this was really Cup Calamari (recipe p. 95), the
delightfully absorbing work.
the case or just a big misunder- squid cooks to perfect springiness
Bouncy. Springy. Slippery.
standing. It didn’t take me long to in a mere 20 minutes. Fresh beech
Chewy. Gummy. These are coveted
realize that there are Q textures all mushrooms are another shortcut to
sensations in the cuisine of Taiwan,
over America’s favorite foods—in Q: I quickly sauté them before mar-
described by the letter “Q.” The
the assertive chew of an al dente inating them in a refreshing mix-
term is derived from the Taiwan-
ese Hokkien word khiu or k’iu, but pasta, or the delicate snap of lightly ture of rice vinegar, garlic, chiles,
these days, the Roman letter Q is cooked calamari—though here it is and cilantro for Beech Mushroom
how you’ll see this word printed not identified with its own word. Salad (recipe p. 96), a chilled appe-
in Taiwan. If a food is especially Q, To help home cooks learn to tizer with toothsome bite.
you could call it QQ. Boba might be create and savor Q, I looked for Finally, mochi rice cakes, made
Q’s most well-known avatar, with dishes and ingredients that had an with glutinous rice flour for a

those glistening tapioca pearls established foothold in the United chewy, stretchy consistency, are
at the bottom of a cup of milky
sweetened tea that continue to
States, with textures that could
border on Q, and cranked up the Q “
It didn’t
at the heart of a classic Q dessert.
Vivian Ku, chef-owner of Taiwan-
bounce around in your mouth long quotient. Instead of a pasta dish— take me ese restaurants Pine & Crane and
say, a buttery orecchiette with long to Joy in Los Angeles, provided her
after you’ve taken a sip.
realize
When I wrote the cookbook The Italian sausage—what if we were recipe for traditional Hakka-style
that there
Food of Taiwan in 2015, I felt that to stir-fry some soft, chewy rice mochi: warm, soft mochi cakes
are Q
people just learning about Taiwan- cakes instead? The result (recipe textures dusted in peanut and black sesame
ese food could better appreciate p. 95) is savory-sweet, the chewy all over powders, which I have adapted for
many dishes if they understood rice cakes absorbing the flavors America’s the home kitchen (recipe p. 96).
the role that Q played in them. I of brown butter, basil, and tangy favorite All together, these dishes can
decided to call out Q specifically cured Chinese sausage. foods, make for a beautiful multicourse
though
in an essay, to underline why there There are many collagen-rich meal—one that features various
here it
were many elements in recipes that cuts of meat that are enjoyed aspects and degrees of Q. Throw it
is not
contributed this texture, like the throughout the world, but braised identified together for friends, or enjoy each
cornstarch slurry or sweet potato beef shanks are a classic Taiwan- with its recipe one by one, savoring the Q
starch that pan-fries to a clear gel ese dish for good reason. In my own word. and QQ of them all.
90 MARCH 2024
Brown Butter Rice Cakes
p. 95
Three-Cup Calamari
p. 95
THE QQ
AN R
Lean on these Taiwanese pantry go-tos to easily
accentuate Q in your home kitchen and cook up
texturally rewarding meals any day of the week.
WOOD EAR FRESH WHEAT

MUSHROOMS CORNSTARCH NOODLES
These are a Q lover’s Cornstarch helps These fresh Asian
dream come true. thicken soups and noodles typically offer
They’re a common sauces while adding more springiness and
type of mushroom a silky mouthfeel and chewiness than their
found around the acts as a tender, chewy dried counterparts—
world, but in Taiwan, breading for deep- and they take less
they’re popular as fried foods. Combined time to cook. Keep a
a cold appetizer, with glutinous rice few packages in your
marinated with bright flour, it’s also key to freezer at all times
vinegar and sesame achieving a soft, so you can whip up
oil. These mushrooms elastic texture in a simple and savory
have virtually no desserts. meal of your favorite
flavor but are prized noodle dish with a bit
for their slippery, more Q than you’d get
jellylike texture and from dried noodles.
ability to absorb
whatever flavors
they’re dressed with.
RICE CAKES
Chinese rice cakes,
or nian gao, are made FROZEN FISH
of glutinous rice flour BALLS
and water. They are
GLUTINOUS often shaped in oval Super-bouncy fish
RICE FLOUR disks or, in the case balls are a beloved
of Korean rice cakes treat for the Q-loving
Essential to making known as tteokbokki, masses. The easiest
many types of mochi small logs. Drop them way to enjoy them
and the Chinese into boiling water for is to keep a stash of
dumplings called just a few minutes and premade frozen fish
tangyuan, this flour they become soft and balls in the freezer. You
is made of glutinous chewy; from there, you can boil them in water,
rice (also known as can stir-fry them, add then add to broth
them to soups, or bake
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TARN SUSUMPOW
sweet rice, although it for a simple soup,

is unsweetened) that them into casseroles. or just enjoy them
has been ground to on their own. Look
a fine powder. Look for frozen cuttlefish
for Erawan brand balls, which have a
flour, which is widely particularly satisfying,
available in Asian tightly packed texture,
grocery stores and from Asian grocery
online. ($6 for a 16-oz. stores or online. ($9,
bag, amazon.com) umamicart.com)
MARCH 2024 93
Red-Braised Beef Shanks
wire-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl; seconds. Add sausage; cook, stirring often,
RED-BRAISED discard solids. Return 11/3 cups strained until lightly crisped and edges begin to
braising liquid to Dutch oven; bring to a curl, about 2 minutes. Add Shaoxing wine,
BEEF SHANKS simmer over medium. Discard remaining and bring to a boil over high. Add 3/4 cup
ACTIVE 1 HR; TOTAL 3 HR 15 MIN
braising liquid, or reserve for another use water; reduce heat to medium-low, and
SERVES 4 (see Note). Whisk together cornstarch and maintain a simmer while rice cakes cook.
remaining 1 tablespoon cold water in a
Collagen-rich beef shanks simmer to an 2. Add rice cakes to boiling water, and
small bowl until cornstarch dissolves. Add
irresistibly tender texture in a braising liquid cook, stirring occasionally to prevent stick-
cornstarch mixture to braising liquid; cook,
seasoned with two types of soy sauce, Chi- ing, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon,
whisking constantly, until sauce slightly transfer rice cakes to sausage mixture in
nese five-spice, star anise, and Szechuan
thickens and coats the back of a spoon, 3 to wok. Increase heat to medium; cook, stir-
peppercorns to make this robust dish. An
4 minutes. Spoon sauce over beef in serving ring often, until sauce thickens and coats
equal weight of boneless short ribs also
bowls. Serve with rice; garnish with sliced rice cakes, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from
works well if you can’t find beef shanks.
dark green scallion parts. —CATHY ERWAY heat; spoon mixture onto a serving platter.
6 medium scallions MAKE AHEAD Shanks can be made through Garnish with additional Thai basil leaves,
2 (about 11/4-lb.) cross-cut bone-in beef step 3 up to 3 days in advance. Let cool and serve immediately. —CATHY ERWAY
shanks (about 11/2 inches thick) (see completely; store in braising liquid in WINE An herbal, passion fruit–y Sauvignon
Note) refrigerator. Reheat over medium-low; Blanc: 2022 Villa Maria Private Bin
1/4 cup canola oil, divided proceed with step 4 as directed.
NOTE Lap cheong and sliced rice cakes
6 garlic cloves, smashed WINE A dark-fruited, spiced Syrah: 2020
can be found at most Asian grocery
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger Unico Zelo Harvest stores or online at sayweee.com.
(unpeeled), thinly sliced
NOTE Find cross-section cuts of beef
1 oz. rock sugar (see Note) or 2 Tbsp. shanks at your local butcher shop or online
light brown sugar
at plumcreekwagyubeef.com. Rock sugar, THREE-CUP
1/2 cup Shaoxing wine made by boiling sugarcane juice until it
2 cups plus 1 Tbsp. cold water, divided forms large crystals, is less sweet than
CALAMARI
PHOTO P. 92
1/4 cup soy sauce granulated sugar and gives sauces a shiny
finish. Find it at most Asian grocery stores TOTAL 20 MIN; SERVES 4
2 Tbsp. dark soy sauce
or online at yamibuy.com. Use reserved
1 Tbsp. Szechuan peppercorns In this lip-smacking riff on the beloved Tai-
(optional) braising liquid plus water or stock for
cooking grains or as the base for soup. wanese dish three-cup chicken, squid cooks
1 whole star anise with toasted sesame oil, soy sauce, and lots
1/2 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder of garlic and ginger. The rings and tentacles
2 tsp. cornstarch BROWN BUTTER are quickly simmered, amplifying their
natural springy, bouncy texture.
Steamed short-grain white rice
RICE CAKES
PHOTO P. 91
1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
1. Cut light green and white parts of scal-
lions into 2-inch pieces, and thinly slice ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 30 MIN 4 garlic cloves, smashed
dark green parts to measure 1/4 cup; set SERVES 4 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled
aside. (Discard any remaining scallion, or and cut into 1/8-inch-thick
reserve for another use.) The chewy, bouncy texture of sliced rice matchsticks
cakes is combined with salty lap cheong (a 1 to 2 red Thai chiles, stemmed and finely
2. Cut each beef shank into 6 large pieces, chopped (optional)
cured Chinese pork sausage), nutty browned
cutting around and removing the bone
butter, and aromatic Thai basil in this quick- 1/4 cup Shaoxing wine
and using the lines of connective tissue
cooking dish. Be sure to transfer the rice 2 Tbsp. soy sauce
as a guide. (The meat will separate easily.
cakes straight to the wok after boiling to
Discard bones, or reserve for another use.) 2 tsp. granulated sugar
prevent the sticky coins from clumping.
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a medium Dutch 1 lb. cleaned squid, cut into 1/2-inch
oven over medium-high. Add beef; cook 1/4 cup salted butter rings and small tentacles
until browned on two sides, 4 to 5 minutes 1 cup loosely packed fresh Thai basil
1/2 cup loosely packed fresh Thai basil
per side. Transfer to a plate, and set aside. leaves
leaves, plus more for garnish
3. Reduce heat to medium-low; add remain- 6 oz. lap cheong (Chinese-style Steamed white rice
ing 1 tablespoon oil. Stir in garlic, ginger, sausage) (such as Kam Yen Jan)
sugar, and white and light green scallion (about 4 links), thinly sliced on an Heat oil in a large wok or skillet over
parts. Cook, stirring often, until sugar melts angle (see Note) medium-high. Add garlic, ginger, and chiles,
and aromatics soften, 1 to 3 minutes. Add 1/3 cup Shaoxing wine if using. Cook, stirring constantly, until fra-
wine; cook 1 minute, scraping browned bits grant and sizzling, 15 to 20 seconds. Add
3/4 cup water
from bottom of pot. Add 2 cups cold water, Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, and sugar; cook,
1 lb. sliced fresh rice cakes (about
soy sauce, dark soy sauce, peppercorns (if stirring constantly, until bubbly, sugar is
31/2 cups), rinsed (see Note)
using), star anise, Chinese five-spice pow- dissolved, and mixture is reduced slightly, 2
der, and reserved beef and any accumulated to 3 minutes. Add squid, and cook, stirring
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over
juices to Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over constantly, until opaque, 2 to 3 minutes.
medium-high. When water comes to a boil,
medium-high. Reduce heat to low; cover and Remove from heat, and stir in basil. Serve
melt butter in a wok or large skillet over
simmer, undisturbed, until beef is very ten- immediately with rice. —CATHY ERWAY,
high. Cook, stirring and swirling constantly,
der, about 2 hours and 30 minutes. ADAPTED FROM THE FOOD OF TAIWAN
until butter is bubbly and browned, 1 to
4. Divide beef evenly among serving 2 minutes. Add basil, and cook, stirring WINE A tropical-fruited Chenin Blanc:
bowls. Pour braising liquid through a fine constantly, until starting to crisp, about 15 2021 Château d’Epiré Savennières
MARCH 2024 95
rice flour, and process until finely ground,
BLACK SESAME about 30 seconds. Add sugar, and pulse to BEECH
AND PEANUT combine, about 5 pulses. Transfer mixture
to a wide, shallow bowl; set aside. Wipe
MUSHROOM
HAKKA-STYLE food processor bowl clean. SALAD
MOCHI 4. Make the peanut powder: Combine
peanuts and glutinous rice flour in food
WITH BLACK
MAKES ABOUT 4 DOZEN
processor. Process until finely ground, VINEGAR
about 20 seconds. Add sugar, and pulse
Vivian Ku, chef of Joy and Pine & Crane, lov-

to combine, about 5 pulses. Transfer to a AND CHILES
wide, shallow bowl; set aside. PHOTO P. 88
ingly interprets everyday Taiwanese home-
5. Remove cake pan from wok once mochi ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 20 MIN
style cooking and street food, as with these
is cooked; remove and discard plastic SERVES 4
rustic mochi balls dusted with peanut pow-
der and black sesame powder. The mochi wrap. Working in batches, use 2 spoons to
The chewy Q texture of beech mushrooms
base is a simple concoction of glutinous scoop and form warm mochi into a small
gives this chilled appetizer salad a fun
rice flour, cornstarch, and water. Hakka- ball (about 1 scant tablespoon). (Mochi
and toothsome bite. The mushrooms are
style mochi differs from other types in that will be very sticky.) Drop ball directly into
quickly sautéed before being marinated in
it’s a plain piece of mochi that’s dusted with black sesame powder. (Alternatively, form
a tangy dressing accented with fresh chiles,
a sweet, flavored powder while still warm 1 scant tablespoon of mochi dough into a
oyster sauce, and toasted sesame oil. You
and sticky. Serve these bite-size treats fresh loose ball using wet hands. Re-wet hands
can serve this salad right away, or make it
out of the steamer, slightly warm and soft as needed to prevent sticking.) Poke mochi
ahead and chill it in the refrigerator for up
and pliable, or let them cool for a chewier ball with a wooden pick, and roll to coat
to three days to allow the mushrooms to
but equally delightful texture. all sides in powder. Transfer to a plate.
further absorb the punchy marinade.
Repeat process with remaining mochi and
MOCHI powders to make about 2 dozen each of
1 lb. fresh white or brown beech
flavor. (If edges or top of mochi dough start
31/3 cups glutinous rice flour (about mushrooms (see Note)
to set, stir well until sticky.) Serve mochi
141/3 oz.) (see Note) 2 Tbsp. canola oil
warm (preferably) or at room temperature.
1/3 cup cornstarch —VIVIAN KU, PINE & CRANE, LOS ANGELES,
1/4 cup granulated sugar ADAPTED BY CATHY ERWAY 2 Tbsp. Chinese black vinegar or rice
21/3 cups water vinegar
MAKE AHEAD Plain mochi balls (without
11/2 Tbsp. soy sauce
BLACK SESAME POWDER powder coating) can be formed up to 3
days in advance and stored in the 11/2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1/3 cup black sesame seeds
refrigerator in a parchment paper–lined 11/2 Tbsp. oyster sauce
1 tsp. glutinous rice flour
container covered with an airtight lid. To 11/2 tsp. granulated sugar
3 Tbsp. granulated sugar rewarm, place mochi balls on a 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
PEANUT POWDER parchment paper–lined cake pan or pie
1 red Thai chile, thinly sliced (seeded,
plate; cover tightly with plastic wrap.
1/2 cup unsalted roasted peanuts if desired)
Steam over low, covered, 10 minutes.
11/2 tsp. glutinous rice flour 1 to 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
Remove mochi, and immediately roll in
1/4 cup granulated sugar (optional)
sesame or peanut powder.
NOTE Glutinous rice flour, or sweet rice 1. Slice off and discard base end of each
1. Make the mochi: Place a steamer rack
flour, made from short-grain rice, is beech mushroom cluster, and separate
or bamboo steamer base in a large wok.
available at Asian grocery stores or online mushrooms into individual pieces. Heat
Add water to a depth of 2 to 3 inches,
at justasianfood.com. canola oil in a wok or large skillet over
ensuring water does not reach bottom of
steamer rack. Fit an 8- or 9-inch cake pan high. Add mushrooms and salt. Cook,
or pie plate on top of rack, and ensure a stirring often, until liquid released by
lid can completely seal the wok closed mushrooms is mostly evaporated, 3 to
without resting on top of the cake pan. 4 minutes. (Do not allow mushrooms to
(Alternatively, set a small round wire rack begin to brown.) Transfer mushrooms to a
over three 2-inch balls of aluminum foil in a medium bowl, and let cool 10 minutes.
large Dutch oven; fill with 4 cups water.) 2. Combine vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil,
2. Remove cake pan from wok. Whisk oyster sauce, sugar, garlic, and Thai chile
together glutinous rice flour, cornstarch, in a small bowl; stir until sugar is dissolved.
and sugar in a large bowl. Add 21/3 cups Pour vinegar mixture over mushrooms;
water, and whisk until smooth. Pour mix-
ture into pan; cover tightly with plastic
“
Mochi rice cakes,
stir until combined. Sprinkle with chopped
cilantro, if using, just before serving.
made with glutinous —CATHY ERWAY
wrap, and return pan to wok. Bring water in
rice flour for a
wok to a boil over medium-high. Cover wok MAKE AHEAD Mushrooms can be stored in
chewy, stretchy
with lid, and reduce heat to medium-low; an airtight container in refrigerator up to
consistency, are
steam, undisturbed, 35 minutes. 3 days.
at the heart of a
3. Meanwhile, make the black sesame classic Q dessert: NOTE Beech mushrooms have a faint
powder: Toast sesame seeds in a large warm, soft mochi almond aroma and mild taste. They can
skillet over medium, stirring often, until cakes dusted in be found at most Asian or specialty
fragrant, about 4 minutes. Transfer sesame peanut and black grocery stores as well as online at
seeds to a food processor. Add glutinous sesame powders. dartagnan.com.
96 MARCH 2024
Black Sesame and
Peanut Hakka-Style Mochi
F&W CLASSICS from p. 100
approachable writing and teaching style, Chocolate Toffee Bar Brownies tablespoon butter in pan; transfer pan to
and ability to inspire home bakers that PHOTO P. 100 preheated oven, and heat until butter is
made her a legend. Her recipes always melted, about 3 minutes. Remove pan
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR
work exactly as written, enabling nov- from oven; spread melted butter evenly
MAKES 2 DOZEN
over foil using a pastry brush. Set but-
ice bakers to achieve great results on the
These brownies from cookbook author tered pan aside. Toast pecans in a single
first try and emboldening them to bake
Maida Heatter deliver fudgy richness with layer on a rimmed baking sheet in oven at
again. And while her recipes are precise 350°F until fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Set
a chewy surprise. Buttery chocolate-
and exacting, they are by no means pecans aside. (Do not turn oven off.)
covered toffee bits melt as the brownies
academic or dry. When introducing
bake, leaving deep pockets of caramelized 2. Combine chocolate and remaining 1/2
her recipe for these Chocolate Toffee candy for extra sweetness and texture. cup butter in a small heatproof bowl.
Bar Brownies in the March 1995 issue Enjoy these chocolaty treats on their own, Microwave on high until melted, about 1
of F&W, at a time when counting every or serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. minute and 30 seconds, stopping to stir
calorie was the moral high ground, every 15 seconds (see Note). Let cool
Heatter opened with the following: 1/2 cup plus 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, slightly, about 5 minutes.
“In the immortal words of Mae West, divided
3/4 cup pecan halves 3. Using a chef’s knife, coarsely chop 1/4
‘Too much of a good thing can be won-
cup toasted pecans and 1/4 cup candy bar
derful.’” She jubilantly layered toffee 2 oz. unsweetened chocolate
pieces. Combine chopped pecans and
candy with pecans and chocolate to 1 1/2 cups chocolate-covered toffee
candy bar pieces in a small bowl, and set
yield buttery and rich brownies. The candy bars (such as Heath) (about
5 candy bars), cut into 1/4 - to 1/2 -inch aside until ready to use.
sheer deliciousness of this and other pieces, divided 4. Beat sugar, eggs, salt, and vanilla in a
desserts forever cemented a place for 3/4 cup granulated sugar medium bowl with an electric mixer on
Heatter in the hearts of all of us who
2 large eggs, at room temperature medium speed until combined, about 30
love sweet treats. seconds. Beat in melted chocolate mix-
Despite her acclaim, Heatter’s spirit ture until fully incorporated, about 45
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
always stayed the same. After accruing seconds. Reduce mixer speed to low; beat
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
multiple James Beard Awards for her in flour until just incorporated, about 45
(about 4 oz.)
cookbooks, she was recognized by the seconds, stopping to scrape sides of bowl
foundation’s Cookbook Hall of Fame in as needed. Stir in remaining 1 1/4 cups
1. Preheat oven to 350°F with oven rack in
1998. While accepting her award at the candy bar pieces and remaining 1/2 cup
bottom third position. Line bottom of an
age of 82, she famously flung handfuls toasted pecans using a wooden spoon.
8-inch square baking pan with aluminum
Spread batter evenly in prepared pan.
of brownies (carefully wrapped, of foil, allowing foil to extend about 2 inches
course) into the adoring crowd. over 2 opposite sides of pan. Place 1 5. Sprinkle reserved chopped candy bar
pieces and chopped toasted pecans
evenly over batter. Bake at 350°F until
brownie edges start to pull away from
sides of pan and a wooden pick inserted in
center is mostly clean (there will be a few
bits of melted chocolate), 25 to 28 min-
utes. Transfer pan to a wire rack; let stand
She jubilantly until brownies are set, about 45 minutes.
layered toffee candy 6. Lift brownies from pan using foil over-
hang as handles; peel off and discard foil.
with pecans and Refrigerate brownies until completely
chocolate to yield rich, cool, about 1 hour. Slice evenly into 24
buttery brownies. The pieces. —MAIDA HEATTER
sheer deliciousness of MAKE AHEAD Brownies can be stored in

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF THE MAIDA HEATTER ESTATE
an airtight container at room temperature

this and other desserts up to 4 days. To freeze, wrap individual
forever cemented a brownie squares in plastic wrap, and store
in a single layer in an airtight container in
place for Heatter in freezer up to 1 month.
the hearts of all of us NOTE Alternatively, you can melt
who love sweet treats. chocolate and butter together on the
stovetop in a small heatproof bowl set
over a pot of gently simmering water.
(The water should not come in contact
with the bottom of the bowl.) Cook,
stirring often, until chocolate and butter
are smooth and melted.
98 MARCH 2024
WEDDING
COLOR of
THE YEAR
MARSEILLE BLEU
Along with the BRIDES® editorial team,

we’re forecasting blue skies ahead
for 2024 and beyond. This timeless,
something-blue hue, inspired by the
French port city’s art, vibrant streets,
and azure waters, suits stationery and
decor for any style and any season.
MINTED.COM/BRIDES
Centro by Julie O’Leary Green, Two Toned by Deborah Chou,

Santa Catalina by Ani Somi, Olive Wreath Navy Wax Seals by Minted
Chocolate Toffee
F&W CLASSICS
Bar Brownies
Maida Heatter’s foolproof recipes made millions of home cooks better bakers.
By David McCann
Roughly chop the

pecans and candy
bars for the best
crunch in the
brownie topping
(recipe p. 98).
THE BEST TEACHERS feel like good friends. They may Heatter was a completely self-taught baker who FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY
know more than you do, but they never make fun of launched her culinary career because she wanted
you for asking questions. They believe knowledge to share her exceptional baked goods with the world.
should be shared, and they want you to achieve as Her fearlessness helped take her from owning a cof-
much as you can. When it comes to baking, the fee shop outside of Miami to authoring several
most scientific form of cooking, my best teachers cookbooks and placing her recipes in national
have been tenacious, encouraging, and exacting, publications (including this one). She was never
while still reminding me to have fun. I found all of IN THIS ISSUE afraid of a little self-promotion. After publishing
these qualities and more in the legendary Maida Heatter’s feature her first cookbook in 1974 at age 58, she carried a
on bar cookies
Heatter, my best teacher in all things baking. To my purse full of brownies and bar cookies and would
was in the March
great sadness, I never met Ms. Heatter, who died in 1995 issue of hand them out to people; when they asked her for
2019 at the age of 102, but my decades of using her F&W, just before the recipe, she’d point them to her book.
her Brand-New Her hustle might have propelled her into the
recipes and cookbooks as touchstones, reference
Book of Great
books, and inspirational texts allow me to consider Cookies was
limelight, but it was her rigorous recipe testing,
her a close companion. published. CONTINUED ON P. 98
100 MARCH 2024 photography by HEAMI LEE

With a World’s Best
for Oceans, Expeditions and Rivers
Viking.com
Ship category: Mid-size ship 300–799 cabins and small ship 150–299 cabins. ©2023. Travel + Leisure® is a registered trademark of Travel + Leisure
Holdco, LLC, a subsidiary of Wyndham Destinations, Inc. Travel + Leisure® World’s Best Awards is used under license. Travel + Leisure® is published
by TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a Dotdash Meredith company, which is not affiliated with Wyndham Destinations, Inc. or its subsidiaries.
All rights reserved; used under license. CST# 2052644-40

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HOW

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33 How to make savory

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• Th ree-Cup Calamari P. 95 • Basic Indian Pizza Dough

• Amchur Ranch Salad •• Chocolate

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What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor

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24 MARCH 2024 photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

FIND YOUR DREAM HOME | BHGRE.COM

GET THAT GREEN

2 (8-oz.) pkg. mascarpone cheese

1. Bake the cake: Preheat oven to 350°F.

pandan liquid; let stand at room tempera-

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THE OBSESSIVE Argia was an architect of Chicago’s pork-centric regional

was later popularized in Washington, D.C.) at his restaurant and

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homemade dosas are a

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Crisp and slightly tangy South Indian dosas

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38 MARCH 2024 photography by HEAMI LEE