Textile Insights February 2024 Issue

RNI No: MAHENG/14704
Published on 10th of Every Month
Vol No. 1 Issue No. 9 FEBRUARY, 2024 PAGES 32
Interim Budget’s Infra Push And Measures To Boost

Rural Consumption LikelyTo Revive Textile Demand
T
he domestic textile and ap- Higher capital expenditure will drive
parel sector has welcomed broader economic growth while ad-
the Interim Budget 2024 pre- hering to fiscal prudence. All this will
sented by the Union Finance Minister fuel the growth in economy and
Nirmala Sitharaman, even as it fails household consumption. This au-
to meet the expectations in a true gurs well for the T&A sector as a
sense. Industry players and ob- whole,” says an industry observer.
servers believe that some of the “The Interim Budget 2024 an-
macro-economic initiatives and nounced by Union finance minister
measures in terms of government’s Nirmala Sitharaman is for the overall
commitment to fiscal consolidation
with a working target of 5.1 per cent
for 2024-25 and hike in capex out-
lay to Rs 11.11 lakh crore leading to
momentum in infrastructure growth (L-R) Pankaj Chaudhary, Ministers of State for Finance, Nirmala Sitharaman,
and providing boost to rural con- Union Minister for Finance and Corporate Affairs and Dr. Bhagwat Kishanrao
Karad, Union Minister of State for Finance at the Parliament House in
sumption through increased focus New Delhi.
on post-harvest activities and rural
housing scheme, will further bolster mand condition in rural India, which few years and the required momen-
the economy and thereby improve normally drives the country’s over- tum has been maintained in the In-
the consumption of household all consumption. terim budget
products, including textiles and ap- The Interim Budget has main- “Even as there is not much for
parel in the medium to long term. tained status quo as far as tax rates the T&A industry on the micro-eco-
It may be noted that in the last are concerned, also taking care of nomic front, the Interim Budget
couple of years, the domestic T&A the ongoing projects and infrastruc- seeks to balance growth with fiscal Ashok Juneja, Director, Sales &
industry is passing through a chal- ture development activities, as the prudence. The government’s com- Service, Saurer Textile Solutions
lenging situation owing to declining government intends to make India a mitment to a 4.5 per cent fiscal Pvt. Ltd.
demand both in the export and do- developed country by 2047. The deficit by FY26 is indeed commend-
mestic markets. The fall in domestic government has been giving prior- able. This augurs well for the overall and continuous development of the
consumption of household products ity for inclusive growth and infra- economic credit creation and for in- country. The budget is all-round, all-
is also attributed to subdued de- structure development for the past flation and private capex revival. Continued On Page 3
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
Textile Insights | February 2024 COVER STORY

Continued From Page 1 Ministry of Textiles for the year
2024-25 when compared to the pre-
pervasive and all-inclusive, instead vious year, is a welcome move. This
of focusing on any specific sector. allocation will be towards various
Though there is no significant an- schemes including PM MITRA Park,
nouncement for the textile industry NITTM, A-TUFS, ISDS, RoTDEP,
per se, the overall development may RoSCTL, etc, apart from making allo-
impact the performance of the textile cation for Cotton Corporation of In-
Industry as well. Ease of doing busi- dia to exercise MSP operation for
ness in addition to having continu- cotton.
ous improvement in infrastructure “The textile and apparel industry
like middle east corridor, three ded- welcomes the extension of the Re-
icated railway freight corridors rebate of State and Central Taxes and
sulting in optimising logistics cost Levies (RoSCTL) scheme for two
are important highlights in this Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, years. The continuation of the
budget,” says Ashok Juneja, Direc- Rajendra Agarwal, Managing Clothing Manufacturers RoSCTL was essential for the long-
Director, Donear Industries. Association.
tor, Sales & Service, Saurer Textile term trade planning. The scheme
Solutions Pvt. Ltd. has seen an increased allocation
Importantly, the logistics sector corridors are expected to facilitate nouncements would be made, and from Rs 8,404.66 crore to Rs 9,246
has received a major push in the In- faster movement of freight and im- indeed, there were no surprises. crore,” adds Aras.
terim Budget 2024 as the govern- prove turnaround times and thus Nevertheless, the budget provided S. K. Sundararaman, Chairman,
ment plans to set up three major bring down the logistic costs signifi- essential indicators of the antici- The Southern India Mills’ Associa-
economic railway corridors to re- cantly. Creation of 20 million homes pated direction for the July budget, tion (SIMA), has welcomed the in-
duce congestion and logistics costs. in five years for low income group emphasising key areas such as interim Union Budget, considering the
These dedicated corridors are ex- will boost the economy,” says Rajen- novation, support for start-ups, sus- Lok Sabha elections to be held
pected to facilitate faster movement dra Agarwal, Managing Director, tainable development, job creation shortly. Sundararaman has hoped
of freight and improve turnaround Donear Industries. and a dedicated focus on women that the demands of the textile in-
times. Together with dedicated “Fiscal prudence instead of pop- empowerment and domestic man- dustry relating to the raw material
freight corridors, these three eco- ulism is a good sign. Expenditure in ufacturing, aligning with the overar- issues and few other industry de-
nomic corridor programmes are infrastructure suggests private in- ching theme of 'First Develop India’, mands might be considered in the
likely to accelerate the GDP growth vestment to come in. Nothing much says Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, full-fledged budget. He welcomed
and reduce logistic costs. These for the textile sector. However, the Clothing Manufacturers Associa- the overall increased allocation of
projects have been identified under cabinet has approved continuation tion. around 27.60 per cent for the Min-
the PM Gati Shakti for enabling
multi-modal connectivity.
Currently, logistics costs ac-
count for approximately 12 per cent
of India's GDP, which hampers its
competitiveness, particularly in the
manufacturing sector, compared
with competing countries. Industry
stakeholders say that by reducing
traffic on transportation routes and
improving the efficiency of freight
transportation, the county can in-
crease its logistical competitive-
ness. This, in turn, would attract
Gurudas Aras, Former Director of
more investment into the manufac- S. K. Sundararaman, Chairman,
Updeep Singh, a textile industry A.T.E Group and Strategic Advisor
turing sector, which is currently to ITA Group (Germany), Rabatex The Southern India Mills’
expert.
fragmented. Any reduction in logis- Industries and Piotex Ventures Association (SIMA)
tic cost, experts are of the view, will
be a big boon for industry like tex- of Scheme for Rebate of State and Gurudas Aras, Former Director istry of Textiles for the year 2024-25.
tiles, which is struggling to bring Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL) of A.T.E Group and Strategic Advisor Sundararaman further wel-
down the cost to competitive levels. for export of apparel and made-ups to ITA Group (Germany), Rabatex In- comed the announcement of meas-
“The Interim Budget is practical, upto 31 March, 2026, which is a wel- dustries and Piotex Ventures, says ures to encourage green power, in-
balanced and progressive. It has ma- come step,” states Updeep Singh, a that there are very few announce- cluding bio-manufacturing, roof top
jor focus on infrastructure. Setting textile industry expert. ments concerning this important solar, offshore wind, etc., so as to re-
up of three dedicated corridors is a “As an interim budget, it was an- sector. Overall, the increased alloca- duce the carbon footprint and ap-
welcome move. These dedicated ticipated that no significant an- tion of around 27.60 per cent for the Continued On Page 4
WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN 3
COVER STORY Textile Insights | February 2024

Continued from Page 3 ever the Indian cotton price exceeds ing for closure of the pending TUFS
preciated the various pro-active ini- the international price, extending a cases at the earliest.
tiatives in the budget to prepare the uniform fee period of 60 days for all Mehra has expressed his happi-
country for meeting the sustainabil- actual users, etc. ness towards the focus on stimulat-
ity goals. He welcomed the continu- Mehra further states that the ap- ing domestic consumption which
ous efforts made in strengthening parel industry is happy to note the may drive economic expansion and
the logistics infrastructure facilities, extension in the RoSCTL scheme for can be good for all manufacturing
aimed at reducing the transaction two years. However, in the present segments, including textiles, which
costs and thereby increase the budget, the allocation for RoSCTL are facing slump in demand. The
global competitiveness of the manu- and RoDTEP has increased by 10 per commitment to maintaining a fiscal
facturing sectors in the country. cent and 5.8 per cent, respectively, deficit of 5.1 per cent and ensuring
Commenting on the interim which is modest. The industry is try- fiscal discipline while supporting
Budget, Rakesh Mehra, Chairman, ing to enhance export performance economic growth is expected to
Confederation of Indian Textile In- and expects better allocations for help.
Rakesh Mehra, Chairman,
dustry (CITI) says that that there Confederation of Indian Textile trade promotion in the full budget to “While in the present budget, the
has not been any major policy an- Industry (CITI) be announced after the elections. government has not made any
nouncement in the present budget, The industry appreciates the in- changes in the existing BCD and indi-
being an interim budget, but the in- curement will be as per revamped creased allocations towards PM MI- rect taxation, we are extremely sure
dustry needs immediate relief from policies recommended by user in- TRA and National Technical Textile that in the full budget in July, the
the financial stress, especially in the dustry associations to ensure price Mission (NTTM) and research and government will consider the indus-
spinning sector. stability and discourage speculative capacity building highlighting the try’s demand to remove the import
The budget allocation for textiles trading. CITI has recommended emphasis of the government on the duty from cotton and cotton waste
has increased by 27.6 per cent, commencement of cotton sales investment. However, the slow up- as also increase the BCD on MMF
largely due to the allocation of Rs from February/March, depending take of PLI and an absence of alter- yarn from the present 5 per cent to
600 crore for CCI towards the cot- upon the arrival pattern, retaining natives to the TUFS scheme is im- 10 per cent to curb cheaper imports
ton MSP operations. Mehra ex- the MSP procured cotton as a buffer pacting investment in the sector. and reduce blockage of working
pressed hope that the cotton pro- stock, releasing the cotton when- The industry has also been request- capital,” adds the CITI chief. ❑
Union Cabinet Extends RoSCTL Scheme For

Apparel And Made-ups Exports Until March 2026
T
he Union Cabinet has granted market for exports. Therefore, not
approval for the extension of only are indirect taxes on inputs re-
the scheme for Rebate of State bated or reimbursed, but other unre-
and Central Taxes and Levies funded state and central taxes and
(RoSCTL) for the export of levies are also rebated.
apparel/garments and made-ups un- Rebate of state taxes and levies in-
til March 31, 2026. cludes VAT on various components
Photo Credit: Image By vecstock
This two-year extension aims to such as fuel used in transportation,

establish a stable policy regime cru- captive power, farm sector, Mandi tax,
cial for long-term trade planning, par- duty of electricity, stamp duty on ex-
ticularly in the textiles sector where port documents and embedded
advanced orders are common for ex- SGST paid on inputs like pesticides
tended delivery periods. and fertilizers used in the production of
The RoSCTLcontinuation ensures raw cotton. Rebate of central taxes
predictability and stability in the pol- petitiveness of the garments and along with other products. and levies comprises central excise
icy regime, alleviating the tax burden made-ups sectors. It promotes cost- The scheme's objective is to com- duty on fuel used in transportation,
and creating a level playing field based competitiveness, aligning with the pensate for state and central taxes embedded CGST paid on inputs like
on the principle of "goods are ex- zero-rated export principle. How- and levies, along with the Duty Draw- pesticides and fertilizer used in the
ported and not domestic taxes." ever, it is important to note that back Scheme, on the export of ap- production of raw cotton, purchases
Initially approved by the Union other textile products (excluding parel/garments and made-ups from unregistered dealers, inputs for
Cabinet until March 31, 2020, and Chapter 61, 62, and 63) not covered through rebates. This aligns with the the transport sector and embedded
later extended until March 31, 2024, under RoSCTL can still benefit from international principle that taxes and CGST and Compensation Cess on
this further extension until March the Remission of Duties and Taxes duties should not be exported, ensur- coal used in the production of
31, 2026, enhances the export com- on Exported Products (RoDTEP) ing a level playing field in the global electricity. ❑
4 WWW.TEXTILEINSIGHTS.IN
COTTON INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024
Mexico's Cotton Consumption Faces Challenges

Amidst Global Competition
I
n the 2023-24 season, Mex- ports and sales to Mexico in over
ico's cotton consumption is 20 years. China's higher textile ex-
anticipated to hit a low of 1.6 ports to Mexico, particularly cot-
million bales, marking the sec- ton yarn and fabric, have surged,
ond-lowest level in nearly three while U.S. exports have declined
decades. This downward trend is significantly.
attributed to intense competition Mexican garment manufactur-
from Chinese textile imports, ers heavily rely on the U.S. im-
macroeconomic factors and re- porter demand for cotton prod-
duced demand for cotton products, with recent data indicating a
ucts from both U.S. and domestic decline in U.S. imports of Mexico's
consumers. cotton products. Higher imports of
Over the past five years, Mex- cotton products from China and
ico's cotton consumption has Bangladesh have also affected the
steadily declined due to the com- domestic industry, leading to in-
petitive wages, lower operating creased displacement of domesti-
costs and large-scale operations in cally produced goods.
Asian countries. The appreciation has impacted the competitiveness Mexico's textile industry faces Despite the benefits of the
of the Mexican peso and higher of Mexico's cotton textile and challenges. The "fibre-forward" USMCA, Mexico's cotton con-
manufacturing sector wages has product exports. Higher domestic rule under the USMCA, requiring sumption is nearing its lowest level
further eroded Mexico's competi- wages are narrowing profit mar- products to contain member cot- in decades. Efforts for
tiveness against Asian counter- gins in the supply chain and ton fibre for duty-free entry, has "nearshoring" and reported initia-
parts such as China, Bangladesh prompting employees to seek sustained demand, but most im- tives have not revived demand,
and Vietnam. higher-paying manufacturing jobs. ports are subject to the "yarn-for- while competitive prices and the
The stronger peso, which has Despite the advantages of ward" rule. substitution of Chinese synthetic
appreciated over 15% compared to proximity to the U.S. and regional The weak demand for cotton textiles continue to exert pressure
the U.S. dollar since March 2022, trade agreements like the USMCA, lint is evident in the lowest U.S. ex- on consumption. ❑
Turning The Wheel: ICRA's Anticipated Surge In

Cotton Demand Creates Buzz In The Industry
I
n a recent research note by ICRA umes, ICRA foresees a decline in oper- Vietnam accounting for ~60% of FY2023 levels.
on the domestic cotton spinning ating income by 9-10%, and operat- these exports. While spinners' cash accruals are
industry, the rating agency has an- ing margins are likely to contract by While domestic cotton prices hit projected to decline in FY2024, ICRA
ticipated a robust 12-14% growth in 200-240 bps in FY2024 due to de- a lifetime high in H1 FY2023, they anticipates a decrease in borrowings
demand for FY2024, driven by a creased realizations and lower gross steadily declined in H2 FY2023 and as well, resulting in an improved cap-
surge of 85-90% in yarn exports.This contribution levels. Notwithstanding, further dropped by ~25% in the first 9 ital structure for companies.The debt
upswing is attributed to a shift in newly added in-house power gener- months of FY2024. The anticipated coverage ratios, however, are ex-
sourcing preferences away from ation capacities by select players decrease in domestic cotton produc- pected to weaken in FY2024, reflect-
China and heightened expectations may alleviate margin pressures in the tion for CY2024, coupled with a weak ing the industry's response to the de-
of increased demand in the US and medium term.” operating environment, is expected cline in operating profit.
EU regions for the upcoming Cotton yarn exports, constitut- to marginally increase cotton prices Roy concluded, “The industry,
spring/summer season, influencing ing 25-35% of India's cotton yarn from the current levels. having undertaken high debt-funded
domestic demand from apparel and production, witnessed a trend rever- Cotton yarn prices, on a declining capex in FY2022 and FY2023, is ex-
home textile manufacturers. sal in FY2024, with overall export trend since June 2022, are expected periencing a cautious approach in
Despite the positive demand out- volumes growing by ~142% in 7M to remain soft for the rest of FY2024 FY2024.While capital structure is ex-
look, a significant drop in cotton FY2024. The share of exports in the and experience a marginal increase pected to improve marginally, ICRA
prices is expected to lead to a 9-10% overall production increased from in FY2025 as downstream demand envisions a slight uptick in capex an-
year-on-year decline in revenues, to- 19% in FY2023 to ~33% in 7M picks up. Despite a 19% decline in av- nouncements for FY2025, driven by
taling approximately Rs 33,465 crore FY2024, fueled by increased exports erage gross contribution margins for machinery modernization needs, de-
in FY2024. Jayanta Roy, Senior Vice to China. For the full year FY2024, spinners in 9M FY2024, there was a mand influx from the China Plus One
President & Group Head, Corporate ICRA has estimated India’s yarn ex- 9% improvement in November 2023. scheme, and improved domestic de-
Sector Ratings, ICRA, commented, ports to surge by ~85-90% on a YoY ICRA expects cotton yarn gross con- mand from downstream apparel
“Despite increased cotton yarn vol- basis, with Bangladesh, China and tribution to stabilize in FY2024 over companies.” ❑
SUSTAINABILITY INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024
Innovation- AWay For Sustainability

If we are too afraid of taking risks, we may miss out on opportunities to innovate and grow. By playing it safe and
attempting to insure our finances, we lose our cutting edge.
hesitantly. helped us in providing the required Innovation is not as scary as we

Off came the reply immediately changes in their software, they were think:
from my boss, a little harsher than be- not privy to how those alterations In today’s competitive dynamic
fore. "Whoa! Who gave you the au- functioned on the machine due to the world, it is not uncommon to have the
thority to determine profit? Your re- project's classified nature). following demands from the top man-
turns don't measure up to other mills The changes in core-yarn attach- agement!
in our industry," he growled, raising ment, coupled with the use of a spe- “Bring in breakthrough ideas!”
his voice. cial front top roller featuring horizontal “What’s your next disruptive sug-
Despite his initial resistance, he grooves at equal intervals, allowed us gestion?”
lent his listening ears to know more to create cotton core spun yarn with Unfortunately, these are included
about the proposal. I know he was either nylon filament or another cot- in the KPAs of the staff, which makes
very fond of innovations. The appar- ton yarn as the core. them still scarier.
ent anger he displayed during the dis- After these modifications, we suc- The fear of criticism, uncertainty
cussion with the higher-ups was cessfully achieved the desired yarn and negative impact on one’s career
merely a façade. density of approximately 0.25 to 0.30 can paralyze innovation. It is to be
Murugan Santhanam
Finally, I got the approval. gms/cm3 (D in UT4). Our regular sin- noted that innovation is not just about
The project aimed to meet our gle yarns typically had a density of finding a new bright idea, but it is also
An Anecdote customer's demand for producing around 0.6 and could go up to 0.75 about being passionate about what
“I think you are making a mess low-density yarns. Specifically, the with the use of a compact system. we do and finding ways to do contin-
over there in your mills! It seems you customer sought to replace their ex- Ultimately, the project was a re- uous, aggressive improvement on it.
are wasting your time and money in isting yarns used in pile fabrics for sounding success, resulting in gar- Yes, people must innovate by dis-
the name of innovations, and frankly, I Parkas and also for lightweight jeans. ments that were 30% lighter. Profits covering some new concepts, just as
am not happy about that!” After obtaining approval, a techni- saw a substantial increase in the sub- described above.
With these words, my boss fixed cal representative from the customer sequent years, making it a win-win sit- Ultimate innovation is achieved
me with an intense gaze over the rim of and our team collaborated to devise uation for all stakeholders. through people in the organization
his spectacles. While his face re- methods for producing the required These garments only consumed who push themselves relentlessly to
mained stoic, his words were sharp low-density yarns. 30% less material compared to take the existing products to the next
enough to sting like thorns. The customer had experience in their counterparts due to the use of level. It is a continuous process and
The room stayed quiet; the air was producing such yarns with wool but yarns which are around 30% finer new ideas are to be celebrated and
heavy with doubt! I could even hear lacked knowledge about cotton spin- than existing ones but have the awarded carefully to nurture the best
the buzzing sound of fluorescent ning. same bulkiness. Also, they boasted practices in an organization.
lamps. I was there to explain my new As per our conclusion, we needed a timeless fashion and durability Either a company may make this
proposal to our top management some modifications in our present that could be passed down through a way of life throughout the organiza-
team. core-yarn system. The core yarn sys- generations. tion, or just sit and wave at other suc-
I cleared my throat and broke the tem supplier was kind enough to In a later financial meeting, my cessful competitors, lamenting. ❑
silence. make some modifications to their boss, wearing a smile, remarked, (The author is the Managing
"But, Sir, we're not incurring any software. (It’s worth noting here that "Well, it turns out you're making quite Director of Texdoc Online
losses, as you're aware," I responded though the machinery supplier a positive mess!" Solution Pvt. Ltd.)
Epson's Dry Fiber Technology To Tackle

Recycling Challenges In Fashion Industry
E
pson, the tech giant, is on a especially from discarded clothing, shirts and bed sheets, as well as
mission to address the in- is gaining traction. In Europe, the elastic blended fabrics found in
creasing global demand for push to elevate the use of recycled functional clothing.
recycled fibres by leveraging its rev- fibres while curbing reliance on syn- Epson aims to tackle this limita-
olutionary Dry Fiber technology. In thetic alternatives is particularly ev- tion head-on, utilizing its proprietary
a significant move towards achiev- ident. Dry Fiber technology to develop a
ing this goal, Epson has recently Traditionally, textile recycling process for defibrating these hard-
joined forces with The Hong Kong employs a machine called a garnett, to-recycle fabrics. By partnering
Research Institute of Textiles and which proves effective for most ma- with HKRITA, Epson envisions a
Apparel Ltd (HKRITA), a renowned As environmental concerns take terials. However, it falls short when groundbreaking solution that will
R&D centre specializing in textile in- centre stage worldwide, the mo- it comes to challenging textiles like revolutionize the recycling of clothing
novation. mentum for using recycled fibres, tightly woven fabrics used in dress fibres. ❑
BHARAT TEX INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024
Revolutionising Global Textile Partnerships: India’s

Sustainable PathwayTo ESG Excellence
As ESG considerations continue to shape business decisions, the ongoing collaboration between international
textile buyers and India's textile sector serves as a beacon of hope, illustrating the potential for industries to
thrive while remaining environmentally conscious and socially responsible.
T
he textile industry, historically ernance within the Indian textile in-
associated with significant en- dustry.They aim to balance economic
vironmental social and gover- growth with environmental and social
nance (ESG) impact, has undergone responsibility, driving the industry to-
a paradigm shift. The specific timing wards a more sustainable future.
of the need for ESG in the Indian textile
industry can be traced back to the Challenges and Opportunities
early 2000s when global attention be- Despite commendable progress,
gan focusing more on sustainable and challenges persist. There is crucial
responsible business practices. How- need for continual investment in sus-
ever, the momentum gained consid- tainable technologies, addressing wa-
erably in the past decade as aware- ter scarcity issues and ensuring wide-
ness about climate change, spread adoption of ethical practices
environmental degradation and social across the industry. However, these
issues has significantly increased challenges also present opportunities
worldwide. Chemistry Practices. Indian textile adopting traceability tools and certi- for innovation, investment and the
It is a matter of pride how India's manufacturers have invested in inno- fications that provide buyers with vis- evolution of sustainable practices in
textile sector, which is steeped in tradi- vative technologies and processes ibility into the entire supply chain.The the Indian textile sector. These initia-
tion and innovation, has responded to aimed at minimizing the industry's Indian government has also intro- tives introduced and implemented
this transformation by adopting and ecological footprint. By embracing reduced various certifications like GOTS across the textile sector of India
introducing various initiatives that ad- newable energy sources and imple- - Global Organic Textile Standard, demonstrate the nation’s commit-
dress the need of the hour. Today, menting efficient waste management which is an official indication of the ment to reducing environmental im-
where ESG goals are at the forefront systems, these manufacturers not textile standards. pact.
of business strategies across the only cater to buyer demands, but also Furthermore, adherence to ethical As ESG considerations continue
world, international textile buyers are contribute positively to the environ- business practices and compliance to shape business decisions, the on-
increasingly recognizing the impor- ment. with international standards ensures going collaboration between interna-
tance of sustainable sourcing prac- good governance with international tional textile buyers and India's textile
tices.India,renowned for its rich textile Social Responsibility and Ethical partnerships. sector serves as a beacon of hope, il-
heritage, has emerged as a pivotal Practices lustrating the potential for industries to
hub for global buyers seeking to fulfil Indian textile manufacturers and Government Initiatives: thrive while remaining environmen-
their ESG commitments while engag- stakeholders across the value chain The Government of India has in- tally conscious and socially responsi-
ing in mutually beneficial partner- have significantly improved the sus- troduced several initiatives and poli- ble.The convergence of international
ships. tainable livelihood and earnings of the cies aimed at promoting ESG which buyers' ESG objectives with India's
labour and improved their working brings the practices within the reach sustainable initiatives has fostered
Improved Measures & Practices: conditions while also emphasising of textile industry. Some notable ini- collaborative partnerships that tran-
Measures have been taken by the their skill development. tiatives include the Sustainable Ap- scend traditional buyer-supplier rela-
Indian textile players and the Indian This makes it imperative for inter- parel Coalition (SAC), Technology tionships.
government to actively promote national buyers who source from In- Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS),
these practices across the value dia to benefit from partnerships that SAMARTH Scheme, National Clean Bridging the Gap with Bharat Tex
chain. Sustainable farming practices, prioritize fair wages, safe working con- Energy Fund (NCEF),Amended Tech- 2024
regenerative farming, reducing the ditions and community welfare pro- nology Upgradation Fund Scheme As the Indian textile sector weaves
use of chemicals, promoting soil grammes. The implementation of (ATUFS),Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) sustainability into its fabric, Bharat
health, use of recycled fabrics, conser- labour standards aligned with inter- Norms, National Policy on Textiles, Tex 2024 stands as a beacon for pro-
vation of water through recycling and national norms, coupled with initia- Skill Development Initiatives and sev- gressive dialogue facilitating crucial
investing in renewable energy tives supporting local communities, eral others. discussions and transformative col-
sources, energy-efficient technolo- underscores India's commitment to Additionally, there is a growing laborations.With dedicated pavilions
gies and machinery to achieve the de- social sustainability. By boosting in- trend among consumers towards on sustainability and recycling, the
sired outcomes are contributing on a clusive growth and empowering arti- eco-friendly and sustainable prod- mega textile event will also host
massive scale towards meeting the sans and workers, the industry con- ucts, which is pushing the industry to knowledge sessions and discussions
ESG goals of Indian companies and tributes to the socio-economic adopt more responsible practices. led by industry experts. With ex-
the government. development of the regions involved. These initiatives signify the na- hibitors showcasing sustainable tex-
The use of eco-friendly dyes and tion’s commitment to promoting sus- tile products, the event will serve as
chemicals has started gaining a lot of Transparency and Governance tainable practices, enhancing environ- the gateway for international textile
prominence in the Indian textile in- India's textile sector has made mental stewardship, improving social buyers seeking to forge meaningful al-
dustry, which align with the Green strides in enhancing transparency by conditions and promoting good gov- liances with India's textile sector. ❑
India's Textile Industry Set To Weave

Global Success Publisher
Arvind B Semllani*
With a potent blend of centuries-old craftsmanship, technological advancements
and a renewed focus on sustainability, India's textiles are poised to captivate Strategic Advisor
international markets. Sureshkumar J Vibhaker
CEO
Dewang Shah
Managing Editor
Prakash Patil
Image credit: by vecstock on Freepik

Associate Editor
Henry Dsouza
Asst. Editor
Haimanti Gupta
Special Correspondent
I
ndia’s textile industry is positioned manufacturing processes and lever- Production Linked Incentive (PLI)
Neeraj Mathuria
at the cusp of a transformative aging technology for efficiency and scheme, National Technical Textiles
journey and is well-poised to shape quality. Innovation and skill develop- Mission (NTTM) and SAMARTH
Operations
the global textile landscape. With a ment play pivotal roles in catapulting Scheme that aim to enhance manu-
Hemal Semlani
rich heritage dating back centuries Indian textiles onto the global fashion facturing competitiveness, create em-
[email protected]
and a promising trajectory into the fu- scene. ployment opportunities and promote
ture, the industry's evolution prom- sustainable practices across the value
Editorial/Press Releases
ises innovation, sustainability, trace- India vs World chain.
[email protected]
ability and global supply chain The Indian textile industry is gear- The Indian government's support
[email protected]
integration. ing up to deliver a formidable chal- through initiatives like the Amended
As the world's largest producer of lenge on the global stage in the years Technology Upgradation Fund
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cotton, silk and jute and second to come. With a potent blend of cen- Scheme (ATUFS), the Scheme for In-
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largest producer of chemical fibres, turies-old craftsmanship, technologi- tegrated Textile Parks (SITP) and the
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backed by a strong value chain capa- cal advancements and a renewed fo- launch of Pradhan Mantri Mega Inte-
bility in textiles and garments, India cus on sustainability, India's textiles grated Textile Region and Apparel
Registered Office
has cemented its position as a reliable are poised to captivate international Parks (PM MITRA Parks) have en-
ABS Media and Events
sourcing base for global brands/retail- markets. Its commitment to sustain- couraged investments in infrastruc-
B-21 Gnat Vikrant CHS,17
ers. Its diverse textile sector encom- ability, coupled with its diverse prod- ture, technology and skill develop-
Poddar Street,
passes everything from traditional uct range, positions the country ment. These initiatives aim to fortify
Opp Surya Hospital,
handlooms to modern, technologi- favourably amidst evolving consumer the entire textile value chain, from fi-
Santacruz (W),
cally advanced manufacturing units preferences worldwide. Indian textiles bre to fashion.
Mumbai 400054.
across all key segments, including tex- are increasingly being recognized for Additionally, the NTTM seeks to
Ph: 9833977743/ 8356862511
tiles, apparel, home textiles and tech- their uniqueness, quality, craftsman- position India as a global leader in
nical textiles. However, the true ship and ethically sourced raw materi- technical textiles, opening up new av- * Responsible for selection of news
essence of India's textile industry lies als, carving a niche in international enues and applications across sec- under PRB Act. Publishers regret that
tors like automobiles, infrastructure, they cannot accept liability for errors &
in its ability to seamlessly blend sus- markets.
omissions contained in this publication,
tainable fibres and tradition with inno- Furthermore, the integration of logistics, healthcare and agriculture, howsoever caused. The opinion & views
vation to attract global players across digital technologies like AI, IoT and among others. contained in this publication are not
necessarily those of the publisher.
various segments from luxury to blockchain is set to revolutionize the Government initiatives and cam-
Readers are advised to seek specialist
mass market products. industry, enhancing transparency, paigns like ‘Vocal for Local’, ‘Atmanirb- advice before acting on the information
Looking ahead, the Indian textile supply chain efficiency and customer har Bharat’ and ‘Make in India Make contained in the publication which is
provided for general use & may not be
industry is set to undergo a paradigm experiences. for the World’ have empowered the appropriate for the readers’ particular
shift. Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s MSMEs to scale up their potential, circumstances.
visionary 5F framework—Farm to Fi- Government Support driving the growth of the Industry.
Printed, Published and Owned
bre to Factory to Fashion to Foreign— This USD 154 billion industry is by Arvindraj Babulal Semlani and
is the roadmap guiding this evolution. one of the largest workforce employers Stage Set For India To Be Global printed at Mangal Paper Mart,
Unit No. D-3, Akruli Industrial Estate,
This holistic approach emphasizes in India and contributes 2.3% of the Textile Hub
Akurli Road, Kandivali (East), Mumbai -
the integration of every stage of pro- country’s Gross Domestic Product In addition to the above initiatives, 400101 and published at B-21 Gnat
duction,from cultivating raw materials (GDP). In recent years, the Indian gov- a consortium of 11 Export Promotion Vikrant CHS, 17 Poddar Street,
Opp Surya Hospital, Santacruz (W),
to presenting finished products on a ernment has introduced several Councils (EPCs) supported by the Mumbai 400054.
global platform.The 'Factory to Fash- schemes to bolster the growth of the Ministry of Textiles will be organising
ion' facet emphasizes modernizing Indian textiles industry such as the Continued On Page 14 Editor: Arvindraj B Semlani
Birla Cellulose: Pioneering Sustainable Textiles Globally

I
n a testament to their unwavering commit- Furthermore, the company has success-
ment to the global textile industry and sus- fully commissioned a Carbon-disulphide Ad-
tainability initiatives, Birla Cellulose is de- sorption plant at Kharach Gujarat, that em-
lighted to announce their participation in ploys closed loop technologies to mitigate
Bharat Tex, to be held in New Delhi from Febru- carbon disulphide and hydrogen sulfide emis-
ary 26-29, 2024, at Bharat Mandapam. This sions. The objective of achieving a 90-95% re-
participation underscores Birla Cellulose's covery rate for sulfur was promptly met, earn-
dedication to fostering innovation, collabora- ing them the coveted EU BAT status for their
tion, and sustainable practices within the tex- Karach plant.
tile sector. They continue to play a leading role
in shaping the discourse and direction for the Having achieved the #1 position in
future of the textile industry. Canopy's Hot Button Report 2023 for its sus-
Birla Cellulose leads the way in sustainable tainable forestry practices and innovative solu-
manufacturing of man-made cellulosic fibers, tions, Birla Cellulose has maintained the pres-
deriving its materials from renewable sources tigious 'Dark Green Shirt' rating for four
in responsibly managed forests. This aligns consecutive years, thus consistently demon-
seamlessly with the emphasis on sustainabil- strating its commitment to high-quality eco-
ity and eco-friendly practices. friendly fashion.
Over the years Birla Cellulose has worked In addition to these recent advancements,
diligently on finding sustainable solutions and Livaeco by Birla Cellulose has found accept-
crafting innovative fibres - among them being ance all around the globe owing to its sustain-
the recent introduction of Birla EcoSoft, a rev- able credentials. These fibres contain a
olutionary bamboo viscose fibre. Sourced unique molecular tracer which helps in source
from sustainably managed forests, Birla verification across the value chain. A com-
EcoSoft stands out for its exceptional breatha- plete information on the journey of fibre from
bility, moisture management and higher dura- forest to fashion is available through a unique
bility as compared to generic viscose, setting QR Code which can be made available to the
new standards for comfort in the fashion in- consumer conveniently. Their blockchain
dustry. This intelligent addition to their roster technology-based tool – GreenTrackTM is
reflects Birla Cellulose’s commitment to pro- used to trace upward and downward value
viding consumers with the trust and assur- chain.
ance they deserve in an era where trans- Birla Cellulose aims to display these
parency is paramount. groundbreaking solutions, reinforcing its rep-
Furthering their strides in sustainability, utation as a leader in sustainable textile pro-
Birla Cellulose introduces a groundbreaking duction at Bharat Tex. With its unwavering
Circular Yarn Blend, made from recycled me- dedication to sustainability and a track record
chanical textile waste using state of the art of excellence, Birla Cellulose anticipates mak-
technology. What makes this product unique ing a significant impact and beyond, ready to
is their ability to reach a remarkable 50% me- unveil their latest developments at Booth
chanical recycled fiber content, while still Number H1G: 003, Hall No 1, situated on the
maintaining high-strength yarn for diverse Ground Floor.
fabric and garment production. The chemical- “ We at Birla Cellulose are deeply enthused
free, energy-efficient mechanical recycling about our involvement in Bharat Tex. We look
process addresses environmental concerns, forward to engaging with industry leaders, ex-
boasting minimal energy consumption, eco- in-situ coloration eliminates the need for ex- changing ideas, and forging partnerships that
friendliness, lowest greenhouse gas emis- tra dyes or pigments, further reducing the en- will shape the future of textiles." - ManMohan
sions, and reduced water usage. Additionally, vironmental footprint. SIngh - CMO, Birla Cellulose. ❑
India's Textile Industry Set To Weave Global...

Continued from Page 12 emphasis on global quality and stan- also carve a distinctive global identity, ceptionally promising. The conver-
Bharat Tex 2024 - the largest global dards. By embracing transformative resonating with the world's evolving gence of tradition and technology is
textile event to be held from 26–29 technologies, sustainability and skill preferences. poised to elevate India as a global tex-
February, 2024, in the newly launched development, the stage is set for In- India continues to harness its tile manufacturing hub. The journey
venues of Bharat Mandapam and dia to become the leading global textile strengths in raw material cultivation, from yarn to yardage is promising and
Yashobhoomi, New Delhi. This mega hub. The amalgamation of tradition manufacturing and design backed by India's textile saga is poised to capti-
textile event functions as a blueprint, with innovation and the focus on cir- government initiatives and a commit- vate the world with its vibrant threads
ensuring that every aspect of the tex- cularity and sustainability will not only ment to skill development, the trajec- of tradition, innovation and sustain-
tile value chain is represented with shape the future of Indian textiles but tory for the textile sector appears ex- ability. ❑
EXCLUSIVE TETE-E-TETE Textile Insights | February 2024
yarn with higher production.
What are some of the common challenges

faced by the spinning industry, particularly in
recent times, and how is the industry address-
ing these challenges?
The spinning industry faces challenges like un-
predictable yarn demand and higher yarn costs
due to raw material price fluctuations. In recent
times the US and Europe's recession has im-
pacted Indian yarn exports and the low yarn de-
mand with high raw material cost has impacted
the profitability of spinners. Import of synthetic
fabrics at low cost from Bangladesh and China has
impact domestic synthetic industry.
How does the selection and sourcing of cotton

impact the spinning industry, considering fac-
tors like quality, count and market focus?
India is the second largest cotton growing
country and spinners in India have wide varieties of
cotton to choose, depending on count, yarn quality,
mill location, machinery setup in their mill and the
product position and quality and count to be pro-
duced.
Average data of last 10 years of cotton cultiva-
tions is 12.5 mn hectares with average output of
35 mn bales. But many things changed in the in-
dustry in the last 10 years. The spindleage, produc-
tion, demand fluctuations, climate change, de-
mand for other commercial crops, change in
international cotton prices, circular economy, sus-
tainability and recycled products in demand, gar-
ment product cycle and fashion changes do im-
Kiran Hanchate pact yarn price and are hence decisive factors for
Vice President—Spinning Machinery & Zonal Head - West, Textile Engineering Group - Spinning cotton sourcing.
A.T.E Enterprises Pvt. Ltd.
How has the global cotton market affected the
spinning and cotton industry in India, particu-
‘There Is An Urgent Need To larly concerning cost, innovation and market

reach?
India's yarn industry faces challenges due to a
Create Sustainable Yarn To lack of integrated value changes with changes in

fashion and demand globally. The dispersed tex-
tile industry with spinning, weaving and processing
Address Global Warming’ mills and cotton grown in different states leads to
reduced efficiency with higher costs. We also lack
FTA trade agreements with global purchasing
Indian textile spinning has modern machineries and very good work countries and strong government polices to
achieve higher market share in global trade. India
practices to produce good quality cost-effective high-quality yarn, says must streamline its cotton to garment supply
Kiran Hanchate, in conversation with Henry Dsouza, the Associate chain, leverage spinning expertise and establish
Editor of Textile Insights. robust garment manufacturing capabilities.
How has technology in the spinning industry tion has led to high production with less HOK. How are changing market trends, such as the
evolved over two decades and what kind of im- Better feeding and control system right from demand for sustainable and eco-friendly prod-
pact did it have on productivity and quality? blowroom like the Trützschler advanced conti- ucts, influencing the cotton and spinning in-
Over the past 25 years, technology in the spin- feed system, the high precision servo drives, ad- dustries?
ning industry has significantly improved produc- vanced sensor for auto levelling system in cards Sustainability is crucial in the textile industry
tivity and quality. The latest generation machinery and draw frames, T-Go the Trützschler auto- to reduce landfill. More than the demand for sus-
right from blowroom to winders are equipped with matic cylinder to flat tops setting, the Magnatop tainable yarn there is an urgent need to create sus-
high technology engineering, demands less main- in Trützschler cards, twin drive and piecing op- tainable yarn to address global warming. Handling
tenance intervals and few breakdowns, AI for prob- timizers contribute to high quality sliver which post-consumer wastes like segregation of cotton,
lem-solving and data base management, automa- helps to produce high quality and consistent Continued On Page 20
TECHNOLOGY INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024
ples of ‘Lean Manufacturing’. “The main goal of lean manu-

TeraSpin, a business unit of A.T.E facturing is optimisation of re-
Group, is into manufacturing of sources which include manpower,
spinning drafting components materials, and machines. “It also
like top arm, top roller and spin- works on the principle of every-
dles and supplies these compo- thing being in the right numbers
nents to OEMs as well as in after- or optimum, neither excessive
market, sales in India and several nor less than required,” Mr Apas-
other countries. tamb explained.
According to Mr Apastamb,
Lean manufacturing focuses the costs of implementing Lean
on 7 wastes: principle compared to the bene-
Transportation, Inventory, fits or savings is very negligible.
Motion, Waiting, Over-process- “We gave our manpower more
ing, Over-production and De- importance than the other re-
Hemant Apastamb fects. Also, it focuses on 8th sources while we were in the
Vice President – Operations, A.T.E Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. (Business Unit: TeraSpin)
waste, which is termed as ‘Un- stage of implementing Lean man-
used Human Potential’. The bene- ufacturing. Lean manufacturing
TeraSpin Adopts ‘Lean fits of lean production for

TeraSpin are – Reduction in
transportation by 66% and In-
was a big change for our man-
power, as adapting them to the
change was the most important
Manufacturing’On ventory reduction by 80 %

“The material flow also fol-
lows the ‘Just in Time’ principle,
factor as it created a sense of
ownership among our operators,”
he stated.
Spindle Insert which has also resulted in im-

proved efficiency of the opera-
tions. The efficiency of the man-
TeraSpin is supplying its com-
ponents to OEMs like LMW and
recently started working with Ri-
Assembly Line ufacturing line has also improved

by 10%, while the rejection per-
centage of overall production is
eter India and Marzoli and is also
exporting to around 23 countries
like Bangladesh, Indonesia,
I
n October 2023, TeraSpin, a rated its lean manufacturing line, less than 0.5%,” Mr Hemant Turkey, Uzbekistan, and South
manufacturer of spinning a spindle inserts assembly line, Apastamb, Vice President – Op- Africa being their key export mar-
drafting components inaugu- which completely follows princi- erations, at TeraSpin said. kets. ❑
‘There Is An Urgent Need To Create Sustainable

Yarn To Address Global Warming’
Continued From Page 18 Considering the factors of tech- Could you please elaborate on management.
blends, garment accessories like nology advancement, market A.T.E Group's commitment to sus- We promote solar energy sys-
hooks, button, zips, etc. demands shifts and substantial require- tainability and its various initia- tems as part of our sustainability ef-
high manpower and large space to ments, how do you envision the tives within the textile industry? forts, offering solutions that not only
handle. Apart from this, fibre gener- future of the textile spinning A.T.E Group has always been a harness renewable energy but also
ated from post-consumer waste are and cotton industry? textile industry pioneer in embracing reduce carbon footprints.
challenged to produce good quality The Indian textile spinning has technological advancements and We offer IoT systems that pro-
yarn for spinners due to short fibres modern machineries and very promoting sustainability across var- vide utility data to customers, en-
and limited length of fibres. While good work practices to produce ious dimensions. abling them to control their utilities
yarn buyer expects quality at par good quality cost-effective high- Trützschler Group has partnered more efficiently and reduce power
with virgin cotton, spinners have a quality yarn. Currently, Indian yarn with Balkan Textile Machinery, spe- consumption, thus contributing to
huge challenge to meet the quality. has share of 35% in global yarn cialising in fabric opening and cut- sustainability goals.
More organic cotton should be market, while it is less than 5% in ting machinery for recycling, to offer Our HMX division specializes in
grown as it is very much sustainable, global clothing. Finally, its the gar- customers additional sustainability comfort cooling, utilising fresh air to
but its higher cost and lower yields ments that are consumed by cus- solutions. enhance comfort and promote sus-
need to be addressed. tomers. Apart from current yarn A.T.E is committed to sustainabil- tainable practices within depart-
Consumer awareness and educa- exports, India should increase the ity in the textile supply chain from fi- ments.
tion, particularly among the younger share in global clothing to increase bre to garment, and it actively ex- In principle, A.T.E Group is dedi-
generation, will increase the demand the demand for yarn further. Cot- plores sustainable practices in fabric cated to sustainability in the textile
for sustainable products. Collabora- ton is India’s strength and should forming and processing. Our dedi- industry, focusing on air quality, water
tion among consumers, manufactur- be leveraged from yarn to gar- cated ETP division focuses on zero- management, renewable energy, IoT-
ers and policy makers is needed for ments. discharge water treatment, empha- enabled utility control and innovative
an eco-friendly textile sector. sizing sustainable water cooling solutions. ❑
ment of India’s different initiatives clearly reflect this

constructive aggressive intention. Make in India,
SAMARTH, ATUFS, PM MITRA, PLI Schemes, Na-
tional Technical Textile Missions, etc. are well-known
now-a-days. Even though WEKO is active in various
industry sectors since last 70 years, only in textile,
nonwoven, technical textile industries we are antic-
ipating a sharp increase in demand of WEKO and
Rota Spray’s minimal application technology. We
can clearly visualise the increase in the turnover in
2023 compared to previous three years and we
have already had a number of serious discussions
from different sectors of textile and nonwoven in-
dustries at the beginning of 2024.
WEKO is listed in Annex III of Indicative List of
Machinery Manufacturers under ATUFS of Ministry
of Textiles, Office of the Textile Commissioner, Mum-
bai, and the textile mills can take the benefit from
this while investing in WEKO.
Jayanta Sanyal Are there specific challenges that WEKO's prod-

Head of Technical Sales and Processes - Textile industry
ucts address to make Indian textile manufactur-
WEKO - Weitmann & Konrad GmbH & Co. KG
ers more competitive?
In the textile supply chain, there are always chal-
‘Sustainability Is The KeyTo The

lenges and these challenges are increasing mani-
fold for the Indian market.The main challenge is the
dramatic increase in textile fabric as well as garment
Trend In Textile Business’

manufacturing in different countries in S-E Asia.The
increase in volume of manufacturing is therefore
forcing the manufacturers to reduce sales price to
sustain in the price competition. One dollar saved
WEKO’s main target is to reduce the use of the resources, which results in is one dollar earned. WEKO’s different products of
potential reduction of emission/consumption and waste generation, says fluid and powder applications are focusing on savings
Jayanta Sanyal to help manufacturers to sustain in the more and
more competitive market.
How do WEKO's products strike a balance be- ergy etc.), which results in potential reduction of
tween sustainability and cost savings in the tex- emission/consumption and waste generation. Considering the evolving landscape, what trends
tile manufacturing process? Depending on specific process of dyeing as well do you foresee in the textile industry, and how
WEKO’s revolutionary non-contact rotary atom- as finishing, the extent of saving is different. This is WEKO adapting to these changes?
iser spray application works on the principle of exact can vary between 35% up to 80% in terms of dif- Sustainability is the key to the trend in textile
precise minimal application. The main targets are ferent resources. So, focusing on sustainability di- business. While selecting the vendors, the brands
to reduce usage of water, reduce use of chemicals rectly helps the manufacturer to save the expenses and the retailers are focusing very deeply on the ini-
and their wastage, reduce drying energy, reduce of production and that’s the balance. tiatives that the manufacturers have already
material wastage and increase operational safety. adopted or are willing to adopt in their manufactur-
In textile value chain, each process consumes India is emerging as a key market. How does ing processes to achieve the sustainability goal. It’s
different resources resulting in emissions/con- WEKO anticipate the demand for its products a process of continual improvement and adaptation
sumption/waste generation. evolving in the Indian textile industry? of sustainable processes. Depending on specific
As stated earlier, WEKO’s main target is to re- India is definitely emerging as a key market not process,WEKO is continuously adapting to develop,
duce the use of the resources (water, chemicals, en- only for sales but also for manufacturing. Govern- implement and provide specific solution which not
only brings sustainability in processes with improve-
ment of product quality and consistency as per the
requirement of the brands and retailers, but also in-
crease profitability of the manufacturer. As a Ger-
man company, WEKO is continuously working to-
gether with universities, chemical companies, other
machinery manufacturers, brands and retailers and
also with the digital and print media of textiles to un-
derstand, develop and implement the most effec-
tive solutions.
As a result of that, our PS2 process is becoming
more and more popular for cotton fabric dyeing with
reactive and vat dyes where the manufacturers can
successfully withdraw the huge drying unit in
Continued on Page 26
cycling paves the way for recycling. Our mission is to

spotlight upcycling's potential, an underdog in the
sustainable fashion narrative.
Your journey from surface ornamentation for es-

tablished brands to founding Bunko Junko is in-
triguing. What inspired this transition and how
does environmental sustainability play a role in
your brand's ethos?
Bunko Junko was born out of my passion for en-
vironmental sustainability and women's empower-
ment. I have been in the fashion industry for over 34
years, exclusively working with women since the
1990s.
In 2009, I embarked on my own journey, offering
white-label services encompassing design, produc-
tion and packaging for various brands, both big and
small. I earned recognition as "Bhavini Behan" for
my Desi work, collaborating with notable names like
Shopper Stops, Anita Dongre, Vira Enterprise, Eth-
nicity, Maya Group of Companies, and Karishma
Group.
As my career progressed, I encountered textile
scraps,prompting me to explore creative ways to re-
purpose them. We began crafting products from
scrap garment materials, and to our delight, people
embraced our work at exhibits. Further research re-
vealed the alarming environmental impact of the tex-
tile industry,motivating me to take action.While tex-
Bhavini Parikh tile upcycling may not yield significant financial
Founder & CEO, Bunko Junko returns at the moment,my commitment lies in mak-
ing a positive impact rather than monetary gain. I
firmly believe that hard work will eventually bring fi-
Bunko Junko: Crafting Wearable nancial success,and my primary goal is to contribute

to a sustainable future.
Art & Empowering Women With The name "Bunko Junko" has a unique ring to it.
How did you come up with this distinctive
moniker, and what does it symbolize for your up-
Textile Scraps! cycling brand?

While discussing potential names with my
daughter during an evening walk, she suggested
Bhavini Parikh, the visionary Founder & CEO of Bunko Junko, candidly "Junk" since we were re-purposing materials, but it
shares the inspiring story behind her transition from surface didn't quite resonate with us.Cleverly,she combined
"Junk" with her name initial "J," resulting in "Junko."
ornamentation to becoming a trailblazer in the world of textile upcycling
Recognizing the need for a personal touch, I incor-
in this captivating conversation with Henry Dsouza, Associate Editor of porated my initial "B," giving birth to the name
Textile Insights. Parikh unravels the intricate threads of sustainability, "Bunko Junko." The name pays homage to my initial
women's empowerment, and the transformative journey that defines (B) and my daughter, Capt.Jill (J).
Bunko Junko's commitment to environmental responsibility. Bunko Junko, a brand conceived during a simple
walk,embodies the Japanese concept of 'art decora-
Let's dive into the heart of upcycling, a concept of- stages does the material typically move towards tion creation,' seamlessly transforming discarded
ten overlooked in the shadow of recycling. Can recycling. materials into beautiful wearable art—a testament
you shed light on the significance of upcycling in At Bunko Junko,our primary focus is on pre-con- to turning wastefulness into green resources.
the circular economy, especially your focus on sumer textile upcycling. Many fabrics and garments
pre-consumer textile upcycling? are rejected during quality checks,even due to small How does Bunko Junko minimize the fashion in-
Upcycling takes precedence in the circular stitching errors or misprints.This results in numerous dustry's carbon footprint and landfill impact
process, coming before recycling. There are two scraps, which we creatively transform into different through textile scraps repurposing?
types of upcycling: pre-consumer and post-con- garments or home furnishing accessories.We oper- Bunko Junko plays a significant role in reducing
sumer. Pre-consumer involves utilizing scraps, ate with a zero-waste approach, converting any re- the fashion industry's carbon footprint and minimiz-
side cuts, misprints or defective fabrics rejected maining material into seed paper—used for 'Thank ing landfill impact by repurposing textile scraps. In-
during quality checks. Post-consumer upcycling You' cards or story pages that can grow into plants stead of contributing to landfills, we creatively trans-
occurs after garment use, involving reselling or when discarded. form these scraps into various products, such as
repurposing the same garment. Only after these It's about creating a circular process where up- Continued on Page 28
MARKET INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024
Bangladesh's RMG Export Journey: A Saga Of

Resilience Amid Global Challenges
I
n the dynamic landscape of global lion, compared to the US$ 9.06 billion
trade, Bangladesh's Ready Made in 2022. In contrast, the UK, the third-
Garment (RMG) sector has dis- largest destination, achieved a growth
played commendable resilience and of 12.46%, reaching US$ 5.34 billion
adaptability, as reflected in the per- in 2023.
formance data spanning from 2018 to Encouragingly, non-traditional
2023. markets saw significant growth of
In 2023, Bangladesh's RMG ex- 20.54% to US$ 8.87 billion in 2023,
ports surged to an impressive US$ diversifying Bangladesh's export port-
47.39 billion, marking a 3.67% growth folio.Japan, in particular, emerged as a
compared to the preceding year.This top destination among major non-tra-
robust performance caps a six-year ditional markets, showcasing a
journey that commenced in 2018 growth of 26.53% compared to 2022.
when the export value stood at US$ Future Prospects and Acknowledg-
32.93 billion, boasting a remarkable ments
year-over-year growth of 12.71%. As the industry reflects on its jour-
However, the subsequent years imports impacted major markets, The anticipated decline in global ney, the collective efforts of individual
were not without challenges. In 2019, particularly the European Union (EU) apparel trading, to be confirmed by exporters have been instrumental in
the industry saw a modest 0.44% and the USA. The monthly statistics the WTO in August, underscores the sustaining positive growth. Against
growth, reaching US$ 33.07 billion. of EU and USA clothing imports re- collective challenges faced by the in- the backdrop of a challenging global
The tumultuous year of 2020 wit- flected a broader trend influenced by dustry. Against this backdrop, market and trade scenario,
nessed a significant dip of 16.94%, at- supply chain disruptions, geopolitical Bangladesh's RMG sector's ability to Bangladesh's RMG industry has not
tributed to the global upheaval tensions and the persistent pan- maintain positive growth is a testa- only weathered the storm but thrived.
caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, demic. Amidst this global downturn, ment to the dedication and perform- Efforts towards sustainability,
bringing the export figure down to Bangladesh's RMG sector demon- ance of industry entrepreneurs. higher value-added production and
US$ 27.47 billion. strated resilience by maintaining pos- Country-wise Export Performance diversification have played a crucial
The resilience of the RMG sector itive growth. It is noteworthy that the in 2023 role. Initiatives such as the
became apparent in 2021, with a no- sector not only weathered the storm Despite challenges, Bangladesh's Bangladesh Apparel Summit in Mel-
table rebound of 30.36%, surpassing but also succeeded in navigating a RMG export to the European Union bourne, trade missions and apparel
pre-pandemic export levels and 3.67% year-on-year growth, achieving (EU) showed resilience, albeit with a diplomacy have contributed to creat-
reaching US$ 35.81 billion. The up- an export turnover of US$ 47.39 bil- meagre growth of 1.49% in 2023 ing a global presence and showcasing
ward trajectory continued into 2022, lion. compared to the substantial 28.49% the sector's transformation.
with a substantial year-over-year Global Market Dynamics and Chal- growth in 2022. The export to the EU While challenges persist, the
growth of 27.64%, culminating in an lenges reached US$ 23.38 billion, with Ger- industry's ability to navigate com-
export value of US$ 45.71 billion. De- The global trading scenario, many experiencing a notable decline. plexities, embrace sustainability
spite a challenging 2023, the industry marred by a depressed market, is evi- However, positive performances in and explore new markets bodes
retained a positive growth of 3.67%, dent in the monthly import perform- Denmark, France, Italy, Spain and the well for its future. The resilient tale
underscoring its robustness in the ance of major markets. Particularly af- Netherlands contributed to maintain- of Bangladesh's RMG sector in the
face of global uncertainties. fected were the EU and the USA, ing overall growth in the EU region. face of global challenges is a tes-
Navigating Challenges in 2023 showcasing declines similar to major The USA, as the largest export tament to its adaptability, vision
The year 2023 brought unique clothing exporters such as China, destination, witnessed a decline of and unwavering commitment to
challenges, as a global reduction in Turkey,Vietnam and India. 8.68% in 2023, totaling US$ 8.27 bil- growth. ❑
‘Sustainability Is The Key To The Trend In...

Continued from Page 22 Are there new innovations or devel- market. machines.
opments in WEKO's pipeline that Presently, we are working on dif- ● Pad-Spray-Batch (PSB 35) in-
conventional PDPS process and can align with upcoming trends in the ferent projects, such as: stead of CPB to reduce batch-
save almost 1400 tonnes of CO2 per textile sector? ● Near infra-red (NIR) drying using ing time.
machine per year. There are number of innovation renewable energy ● Single side digital print preparation
Understanding these require- and development projects in WEKO’s ● Polyester disperse continuous application to increase the speed of
ments, WEKO developed different pipeline.We first develop the process dyeing with Spray-Dry-Cure digital printing.
processes as well as application and then we go for application devel- process which will save more ● Different other single side applica-
systems like WEKO Sigma, WEKO opments. than 80% of water and produc- tions over high GSM textile or non-
ProTec, WEKO Neo and Rota Dyer There are two steps: 1) Technolog- tion time and lots of energy to woven materials required for spe-
Twin. ical study, 2) Lab tested and ready for run the conventional jet dyeing cific end-use. ❑
MARKET INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024
Sun Chemical Addresses Global Freight

Challenges Amid Red Sea Crisis
I
n response to the ongoing geopolitical in- of Good Hope have become routine, adding turn are becoming commonplace, invoking
stabilities affecting maritime transporta- both costs and time to shipments, while cargo several force majeures. The situation is also
tion through the Suez Canal and Red Sea, air freight is witnessing increased demand to causing notable cost increases and poses a
Sun Chemical has announced the implemen- circumvent longer diversions. potential threat to the availability of raw ma-
tation of selected freight surcharges on a Safety measures, shipment delays, con- terials.
global scale. Since November, the region has tainer rotation and port congestion are af- The company emphasizes transparency
experienced severe disruptions, impacting ap- fecting vessels departing from China, India and collaboration with its customers, intending
proximately 30% of the world's container and the Far East. Journey extensions of at to communicate specific adjustments
trade. Delays and rerouting through the Cape least 20 days outward and 20 days upon re- directly. ❑
Bunko Junko: Crafting Wearable Art &

Empowering Women With Textile Scraps!
Continued from Page 24 core value at Bunko Junko. How do
garments and home furnishing acces- you engage and uplift women in
sories, extending their lifecycle. This your workforce, and what strategies
not only lessens the environmental im- have proven successful?
pact by reducing carbon emissions Bunko Junko actively empowers
and minimizing energy and water us- women in its workforce through vari-
age, but also creates a substantial so- ous strategies. We collaborate with
cial impact by empowering women NGOs and juvenile institutions, lever-
through employment opportunities aging existing connections to train
and preventing garments from ending women in garment stitching. Some
up in landfills. women are personally trained, while
others receive online training.
Bunko Junko's role in minimizing We also have a system where
the fashion industry's carbon foot- women take cut materials home to
print is commendable. Can you stitch into fabrics. Recognizing the
elaborate on how your brand responsibilities these women have
achieves this through the repurpos- at home, we provide them with flexi-
ing of textile scraps? bility, allowing them to work from
At Bunko Junko, we source scraps home. They are compensated well
from garment manufacturing units, on a job-work basis for their valuable
leveraging my connections in the in- contributions.
dustry. These scraps are then sorted
based on size, shape and colour re- Challenges often accompany inno-
quirements before undergoing a re- vation. What hurdles have you faced
cutting and sanitization process.After in building the Bunko Junko brand,
this, women artisans take over, stitch- and how are you addressing them? both online and offline. Where can women empowerment and environ-
ing the fabric pieces.The resulting fab- Challenges are part of the jour- readers explore Bunko Junko's mental awareness in the textile in-
ric is sent to the factory for garment ney. Currently, team building and unique creations, and what makes dustry?
production, tailored to meet specific marketing pose hurdles due to fi- your approach to sales distinctive? My vision is to empower women
design requirements. nancial constraints, but we're opti- Our creations are available on our beyond numbers—creating a legacy
We create a diverse range of prod- mistic about overcoming them. GST website and through various plat- of entrepreneurs. In terms of environ-
ucts, including jackets, crop tops, on scrap materials and a lack of up- forms like Amazon, Brown Living and mental impact, we aim to share our
pants, wedding wear, bags, bed cycling compliances present regula- OneGreen. While online sales present knowledge far and wide, especially
sheets, detachable belts, carry bags, tory challenges, but we see promis- challenges due to the uniqueness of with the younger generation.Through
laptop bags, laptop sleeves, tote bags, ing steps from the government and each product,we aim to overcome this workshops, we want to spark a revolu-
and more. Our product categories are the Ministry of Textiles in address- through storytelling and immersive ex- tion in textile upcycling, turning the
determined by the available scrap ma- ing these concerns. Awareness re- periences.We're not just selling prod- tide towards sustainability. Bunko
terials, as our priority lies in utilizing mains a challenge, but our commit- ucts; we're sharing a journey of trans- Junko isn't just a brand; it's a move-
the materials rather than adhering to ment to education and workshops formation—one scrap at a time. ment—one that breathes life into dis-
specific categories. aims to change that narrative. carded materials and redefines the
In closing, what's your vision for narrative of environmental responsi-
Empowering women seems to be a Your products have found a home Bunko Junko's future impact on bility in the textile industry. ❑
MACHINERY INSIGHTS Textile Insights | February 2024
Saurer - Innovative Solutions For Processing

Fine Yarn Filaments
JEC World is one of the world's leading trade fairs for the composites industry and will be held in Paris from 5th
to 7th March 2024. As a partner to manufacturers and processors of glass fibre yarns, Saurer will welcome
customers and interested visitors to booth K102 in hall 5.
Automation solutions for glass filament yarns
At this year's JEC, Saurer impressed with an au-
tomation solution for handling glass filament bas-
kets. The company's Robot AGV in the glass fila-
ment yarns area loads its GlassTwister fully
automatically, precisely and reliably. Saurer serves
as expert engineering partner for integrated au-
tomation solutions entirely according to the cus-
tomers' needs.
CakeFormingWinder, Saurer glass yarn fila-

ment winding machine
Saurer CakeFormingWinder exactly meets the tems - and all that regardless of the new rotor tech- sive package available - from project planning to the
desires and requirements of its customers. With a nology and high-speed traversing. service warranty and original part availability span-
new technology in the market field of glass filament ning all machine generations.
winding, Saurer can achieve highest market re- GlassTwister, innovative high performance
quests.Thanks to the new rotor technology and the ring twisting machine GlassTwister VGT-P, multi-ply ring twisting
integration of high-speed traversing system, Saurer Saurer GlassTwister is an innovative high per- machine with integrated ply unit
CakeFormingWinder is able to accomplish efficient formance ring twisting machine for up twisting Saurer offers the VGT-P, especially for plied and
production of high-quality glass filament packages. glass filament yarns and has become well-estab- hybrid yarns. It offers options for more efficiency,
With a precise and perfect integration into the lished in the market. The company's twisting sys- higher quality in the producing field for multiple and
process chain Saurer CakeFormingWinder is offer- tems provide optimum level of variability and flexibil- hybrid yarns.The PreTwister units and DownTwister
ing more technical features like patent bearings, wa- ity. Along with a range of services oriented toward machine are the perfect combination for producing
ter cooled drive box and automatic greasing sys- customer needs, there is an attractive comprehen- balanced multiple yarns of the very best quality. ❑
Positive Momentum In Global Textile Industry:

ITMF Survey
A
January 2024 report published by the Inter-
national Textile Manufacturers Federation
(ITMF) paints a promising picture for the
global textile industry. Despite previous challenges,
the survey indicates a notable upswing in the busi-
ness climate, hinting at a potential turning point for
the sector.
Key Highlights
Business Climate Improvement: The survey
reveals a significant improvement in the overall busi-
ness climate, with industry stakeholders express-
ing growing optimism. Factors such as better infla- Stability in Backlog and Capacity Utilization: in January 2024—the lowest figure since May
tion rates, increased real wages and improved While the average order backlog has remained 2023. Moreover, there has been a shift towards
consumer sentiment, particularly in the USA mar- steady at approximately 2 months since July 2023, reduced rather than cancelled orders, indicating a
ket, have contributed to this positive shift. capacity utilization has lingered at its lowest more resilient response to market challenges.
Enhanced Order Intake and Expectations: Or- recorded level of 67%. This cautious approach to Nuanced Market Perspectives: Survey partic-
der intakes have shown marked improvement production reflects a nuanced understanding of ipants hold varied views on current market condi-
across various regions, particularly in North & Cen- market dynamics among industry players. tions, with 57% describing inventories as average.
tral America and South America. This uptick in de- Decreased Concerns Over Weakening De- South American respondents reported higher in-
mand has led to heightened business expectations mand: Concerns regarding weakening demand in ventory levels, while garment producers noted the
for July 2024, reaching levels unseen since late the global textile value chain have eased, with only lowest inventories, highlighting the complexity of
2021. 67% of respondents citing it as a primary concern market dynamics. ❑
CYBER SECURITY INSIGHT Textile Insights | February 2024
‘Organisations Must Balance Data SecurityAnd

PrivacyWith Broader Objectives Of Business’
A
s 2024 unfolds, organizational leaders,
from the CEO down to the manager, have
much on their plates. They are contending
with diverse challenges to achieving sustained
growth, navigating the impact and risks of emerging
technology and attracting and retaining talent, to
name just a few. For their part, Chief Information
Security Officers (CISOs) are increasingly being
viewed as proactive co-stewards of these ongoing
business imperatives — not merely the cavalry
leader riding in to save the day during a crisis.
In its annual Cybersecurity Considerations re-
port, a diverse cross-section of global KPMG cyber
security specialists explore eight considerations
that CISOs and their teams are encouraged to pri-
oritize in the current year to support the organiza-
tion’s business growth objectives by mitigating the
impact of specific cyber security breach incidents
and reducing overall cyber risk exposure. as well as the diversity of various reporting require- At the same time, the KPMG report says, cyber
As per the KPMG report, organizations world- ments. As a result, companies are putting more security budgets may have to be more objectively
wide face many cyber security challenges requir- emphasis on embedding privacy and security justified moving forward as organizations deal with
ing the implementation of controls to build and em- within the way they comply with a broad range of economic uncertainty. Many CISOs are seeing flat
bed resilience, meet regulatory mandates and trans-border regulatory requirements and regimes. budgets, not necessarily reduced, as some of that
reduce overall risk. However, the rapid emergence of This is of particular interest when it comes to build- spend is diverted to organizational innovation, par-
artificial intelligence (AI) as a strategic tool for both ing and governing responsible AI systems, ensur- ticularly AI and automation solutions. This note-
legitimate and nefarious purposes is rapidly moving ing customer privacy and enacting guidelines worthy development requires security teams to en-
up the list. The democratization of AI -- these ad- around critical infrastructure, supply chains, smart gage in technology rationalization and budget
vanced technology solutions and models are now products and resilience. optimization — essentially, doing more with less.
largely accessible to anyone with a credit card via While economic headwinds drive budget pres-
the cloud — has at once revealed new paths to sures, there is a growing view that cyber security
value creation and exposed significant potential has matured to the point that organizations can
risks.AI is proving to be a true organizational game- trim investment. Further, security functionality is
changer, including for security teams. now embedded within other IT and transformation
“This evolving threat landscape requires organ- budgets rather than being a central budget provi-
izations and their CISOs to view security through sion.Also, the shift to a cloud-based security-as-a-
a new, more pragmatic lens. More than ever before, service approach embeds security costs into com-
they must balance data security and privacy with panies’ broader operating expenses in a way we
the broader objectives of the business. From cyber have not seen previously.
security perspective, the impacts of societal, eco- “In this environment, I encourage CISOs to
nomic, political and regulatory developments are sharpen their cyber risk quantification (CRQ)
more consistently felt globally today. The simple process, which helps express the impact of cyber
reason is the world is more connected,” says
I encourage CISOs to sharpen security risk in financial terms using mathemati-
Akhilesh Tuteja, Global Cyber Security Leader, their cyber risk quantification cal modelling to illustrate risk through measurable
KPMG International. (CRQ) process, which helps variables. Looking at risk through a CRQ lens can
The most acute effect of the connected busi- effectively demonstrate return on investment and
ness ecosystem continues to be within global sup-
express the impact of cyber investment priorities to leadership and the Board,
ply chains — for all practical purposes, there are security risk in financial terms ensuring the organization,” adds Tuteja.
virtually no regions of the world that are isolated using mathematical modelling Fundamentally, this report explores from various
anymore. However, there remain local nuances. For angles what is perhaps the central aspiration for
to illustrate risk through executives across the enterprise: keeping their or-
example, there are uniquely regional regulatory re-
quirements to which businesses must adhere, such measurable variables. ganizations resilient. Bottom line, if a data leak or
as certain markets being more sensitive to the pro- network breach occurs, how quickly can the organ-
tection of personal data and new rules around re- ization resume regular operations, and how can the
sponsible AI, critical infrastructure and supply Akhilesh Tuteja, Global impact on customers be minimized? This is em-
chains. Cyber Security Leader, blematic of the resilience agenda that can be seen
There is a global focus within the cyber secu- within many of the most recently proposed regu-
KPMG International
rity universe on compliance in general, with a re- lations, particularly those focusing on critical infra-
fined eye toward the overall burden of regulation, structure sectors. ❑

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RNI No: MAHENG/14704

Published on 10th of Every Month

Vol No. 1 Issue No. 9 FEBRUARY, 2024 PAGES 32

Interim Budget’s Infra Push And Measures To Boost

Interim Budget’s Infra Push And Measures To Boost

Interim Budget’s Infra Push And Measures To Boost

Union Cabinet Extends RoSCTL Scheme For

This two-year extension aims to such as fuel used in transportation,

Mexico's Cotton Consumption Faces Challenges

Turning The Wheel: ICRA's Anticipated Surge In

Innovation- AWay For Sustainability

hesitantly. helped us in providing the required Innovation is not as scary as we

Epson's Dry Fiber Technology To Tackle

Revolutionising Global Textile Partnerships: India’s

India's Textile Industry Set To Weave

Image credit: by vecstock on Freepik

Birla Cellulose: Pioneering Sustainable Textiles Globally

India's Textile Industry Set To Weave Global...

yarn with higher production.

What are some of the common challenges

How does the selection and sourcing of cotton

‘There Is An Urgent Need To larly concerning cost, innovation and market

Create Sustainable Yarn To lack of integrated value changes with changes in

ples of ‘Lean Manufacturing’. “The main goal of lean manu-

TeraSpin Adopts ‘Lean fits of lean production for

Manufacturing’On ventory reduction by 80 %

Spindle Insert which has also resulted in im-

Assembly Line ufacturing line has also improved

‘There Is An Urgent Need To Create Sustainable

ment of India’s different initiatives clearly reflect this

Jayanta Sanyal Are there specific challenges that WEKO's prod-

‘Sustainability Is The KeyTo The

Trend In Textile Business’

cycling paves the way for recycling. Our mission is to

Your journey from surface ornamentation for es-

Bunko Junko: Crafting Wearable nancial success,and my primary goal is to contribute

Textile Scraps! cycling brand?

Bangladesh's RMG Export Journey: A Saga Of

‘Sustainability Is The Key To The Trend In...

Sun Chemical Addresses Global Freight

Bunko Junko: Crafting Wearable Art &

Saurer - Innovative Solutions For Processing

CakeFormingWinder, Saurer glass yarn fila-

Positive Momentum In Global Textile Industry:

‘Organisations Must Balance Data SecurityAnd

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