INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM:
2003-2008 Corolla & Matrix 1ZZ / 2ZZ

TurboKits.com – 1000 Old County Cir., Windsor Locks, CT 06096 – 860-676-2929

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 Read This First
Study these instructions completely before proceeding. Engine and/or turbocharger damage may occur if any component within
these instructions is improperly installed. TurboKits.com or any of its distributors cannot be held responsible for damages as a
result of negligent or improper installation. This complete turbocharger system can be installed using common tools and
automotive procedures, but installer must have a thorough knowledge of automotive engine operation and feel comfortable
working on the vehicle. If in doubt, contact TurboKits.com Support at http://www.turbo-kits.com/support/ between the hours of
10:00AM and 6:00PM EST, Monday through Friday.

Remove the turbocharger system from its carton and inspect for any obvious physical damage. All kit components are thoroughly
inspected and carefully packaged prior to shipment from the factory. If any shipping damage is evident, contact your supplier and
request that they process a claim with the shipper involved. Be sure to review the packing list to verify that you have all necessary
system components to proceed. If any components in the parts list are missing, contact TurboKits.com Support at
http://www.turbo-kits.com/support/.

Although this turbocharger system has been designed to use many of the factory emissions controls, it is not “smog” legal in
California, and therefore recommended for “off road” use only. In other states, check local laws regarding aftermarket modification
to emission controlled vehicles.

The information contained in this publication was accurate and in effect at the time the publication was approved for printing and is
subject to change without notice or liability. TurboKits.com reserves the right to revise the information presented herein or to
discontinue the production of parts described at any time.

SAFETY REQUIREMENTS: It is recommended to follow these precautions.

 Always wear safety glasses & gloves.
 Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position & disconnect the battery.
 Always use properly rated jack stands when working under the vehicle.
 Prevent unexpected vehicle movement by using wheel chocks and/or parking brake.
 Operate the vehicle only in well ventilated areas.
 Do not smoke or use flammable items near or around the vehicle’s fuel system.
 Keep hands, clothing and other objects away from moving parts when engine is running.

SUPPLIES: It is recommended to have the following items before beginning installation.

 Toyota factory service manual, for your model year Celica
 A large table or bench, and plenty of adjacent available workspace
 Standard selection of automotive tools, primarily metric sizes
 An assortment of “zip ties” and/or thin-gauge steel wire
 The ability to securely lift the vehicle at least a few feet off the ground
 High temp. automotive RTV sealant
 NPT thread sealant
 Replacement engine oil and oil filter
 Hammer
 Drill
 Loctite thread locker

Test Before Starting: It is recommended to have the following items before beginning installation.
 Compression Test, this will tell you if the engine is healthy to begin with
 Disconnect the battery, this will reset the factory ECU
 Re-gap spark plugs to .028 while you have them out
 If you are going to bring the car to the DYNO afterwards, a BEFORE DYNO is needed as a baseline

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TERMS AND CONDITIONS
The following Terms and Conditions are effective November 1, 2006 and are subject to change without notice.

SHIPPING DAMAGE CLAIMS

A claim for damage in transit must be made by the customer directly to the shipping agency as soon as the damage is discovered.
TurboKits.com is not liable for the condition of the merchandise as handled by the shipper once the shipper has accepted delivery
from TurboKits.com.

RETURNED GOOD AUTHORIZATION TRACKING NUMBER

TurboKits.com will only accept product returns, repair orders / upgrades, and warranty requests that have been approved and are
returned with a corresponding Return Authorization (RA) tracking number. Contact TurboKits.com for approval and the RA
number. Write the RA number clearly on the outside of the package and include it inside the package. This is very important in
allowing us to properly identify and process your request. Failure to comply with this requirement will result in the delay of
processing or the product being returned to you.

RETURN POLICY
All returns & cancellations are up to the sole discretion of TurboKits.com. Return must be made within 15 days of receipt. Please
open and inspect all packages as soon as they are received. There will be a 20% cancellation / restocking fee assessed to all
returns. Installed parts are not eligible for return. "Custom Order" and "Made to Order" parts are sold "as is" and are not eligible for
return or cancellation. No goods will be accepted without prior return authorization from TurboKits.com. Call for approval and RA
(Return Authorization) number.

*No returns will be accepted without an RA number.

*No returns will be accepted after (15) days from the original shipping date from TurboKits.com unless approved.
*All approved returns are subject to a 20% restocking charge NO EXCEPTIONS.
*The original invoice must accompany the return.
*Approved returns will be issued credit only.

REFUSED SHIPMENTS
Sending a shipment back to TurboKits.com does not automatically constitute the right to a refund or credit. TurboKits.com may, at
its discretion, require different payment means for any reshipped refused shipments. It is the customer's responsibility to make all
arrangements with TurboKits.com for disposition of the refused shipment. Customer is responsible for all outgoing and return
shipping and handling charges regardless of disposition of refused shipment.

WARRANTY PROGRAM
TurboKits.com will repair or replace any new TurboKits.com products that fail due to a manufacturer defect, including products
used in racing or competition applications, for a period of one year from the original date of purchase. Warranty is limited to
TurboKits.com products and does not include progressive or subsequent damage and does not cover removal or installation labor
or associated parts. Warranty is non-transferable and must be processed via the original purchaser from TurboKits.com. Contact
TurboKits.com for return approval, RA (Return Authorization) number, and shipping method PRIOR to sending the product to
TurboKits.com. Our Customer Service Representative will provide packaging and shipping instructions. Please include your
invoice with the shipment.

TurboKits.com highly recommends that the installation of mechanical or electrical parts be performed by trained professionals.
Improperly installed products may lead to unsafe and unreliable conditions.

DISCLAIMERS AND YOUR SAFETY, LIMITATION ON LIABILITY

Turbo Kits, LLC, will not be liable for any direct, indirect, special, punitive, incidental, exemplary or consequential damages, or any
damages whatsoever, even if Turbo Kits, LLC has been previously advised of the possibility of such damages, whether in an
action under contract, negligence, or any other theory, arising out of or in connection with the use, inability to use, or performance
of the information, services, products, and materials available from this site. These limitations will apply notwithstanding to any
failure of essential purpose of any limited remedy. Because some jurisdictions do not allow limitations on how long an implied
warranty lasts, or the exclusion or limitation of liability for consequential or incidental damages, the above limitations may not
apply to you.

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Preparing the Vehicle for Turbo Kit Installation
*some of the pictures are from a Celica, these are only on the 1ZZ/2ZZ specific steps where the vehicle body does not change the steps. If you see any steps or figures skipped, they have been removed to better
reflect the Corolla/Matrix install specifically. Thanks
1) Remove intake plenum plastic cover (see Fig. 1 & 2) *note: re-install bolts so they are not lost
2) Remove passenger side engine cover (see Fig. 1 & 2) *note: reinstall all clips so they are not lost

3) Remove factory air box (see Fig. 3)

4) Remove intake flapper control switch (see Fig. 4)
5) Remove Mass Air Sensor from stock air box (see Fig. 5) *note: place this in a clean place for reinstallation
6) Remove Stock Intake Tube (See Fig. 6) *note: now is a good time to clean throttle body if needed

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7) Unplug factory injectors (see Fig. 11)
8) Remove stock fuel rail (see Fig. 12) *note: Make sure you keep the factory fuel rail spacers

9) Remove factory fuel injectors (place paper towels into holes to stop fuel from leaking into intake), remove factory injector o-
rings and swap o-ring onto supplied injectors, they may be loose, but will seal under the pressure of the fuel rail bolts. (see Fig.
13, 14, 15)
10) Install supplied injectors back into intake plenum using lubrication; you can use some of the fuel that leaks from the stock
injectors or o-ring lubrication. Be careful not to tear or rip the stock o-rings as this may cause a vacuum leak. Make sure the
grommets are not crimped when installing the injectors back into the intake plenum. Reinstall the fuel rail spacers and the fuel rail.
(see Fig. 16)

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11) **IF YOU PURCHASED THE DROP IN INJECTORS SKIP THIS SECTION**Cut factory fuel injector clips from
harness at the clip, making sure you leave enough wire to wire in the supplied clips, trim back harness covering to expose injector
wires. (see Fig. 17, 18) *note: a crimp/splice tool makes this job much faster
12) Remove grommet from supplied injector clips, slide wires through the grommet and then clip, making sure you keep the
common ground location consistent on all injector clips. (see Fig. 19, 20)
13) Strip wire about ¼ inch, crimp supplied injector pins onto wire, install pins into supplied clip and reinstall onto supplied
injectors. (see Fig. 21, 22) *note: these will snap and lock into place on the clip & injector

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Removing Exhaust & Header
1) Remove factory 02 sensors from the stock cat pipe. (see Fig. 23) *note: it is a good idea to shoot them with liquid wrench 24hrs
prior to installation
2) Remove factory cat pipe (see Fig. 24, 25) *note: save tension bolts
3) Remove factory plastic undercarriage covers (see Fig. 26, 27) *note as you can see in Fig. 27 this leaves the bottom completely
open

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4) Drain oil (see Fig. 28)
5) Drain transmission fluid (see Fig. 29)

6) Remove passenger side wheel

7) Remove strut mounting bolts (see Fig. 30)
8) Remove wheel speed sensor bracket and brake line bracket (see Fig. 31)

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9) Remove axle nut (see Fig. 34)
10) Pull wheel hub out as to remove the axel from the transmission (see Fig. 35)
11) Remove axel (see Fig. 36, 37) this allows ample room for installing manifold & turbo

12) Remove header bracket (see Fig. 38)

13) Remove lower factory header heat shield to allow access to header nuts (see Fig. 39)
14) Unbolt upper factory header heat shield and move to the side

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15) Unbolt factory header (5 bolts) (see Fig. 41)

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Installing Turbo & Manifold
1) The oil / water fittings on the turbo need to be tightened down and adjusted accordingly (see Fig. 42, 43) note: we have upgraded the
fitting to a banjo style for better clearance and easier installation. Pictures are only for reference.
2) Mount turbocharger to turbo manifold using nuts, washers, studs & T25 Inlet Gasket
3) Install oil feed line to the top of the Turbocharger
4) The turbocharger needs to be clocked, oil feed directly on top, oil drain directly on the bottom & the water fittings side to side
(see Fig. 45) * note: to clock turbo loosen the 6 bolts on the back of exhaust & compressor housings and rotate. Also at this time
rotate the compressor housing into the correct orientation for the #1 intercooler pipe and remount the actuator bracket. The
actuator should not have any tension on it and the arm should easily attach to the flapper dowel without having to pull on the
actuator rod. If the eyelet arm is too short, use the extension rod in your hardware kit. You may also need to flip the actuator
bracket 180 degrees for best alignment. Now is also a good time to check the actuator rod and wastegate flapper on the exhaust
side of the turbo for proper movement. Turbo Clocking Video: http://youtu.be/6gy0wBPW47k (video for reference only, please
follow figure 45.2 on page 11 and figures 72 & 72.2 on page 16 for the proper compressor housing orientation).

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5) Crimp and cut heater core supply line (see Fig. 46)
6) Attach supplied plastic barbs to stainless steel braided -8 water supply lines (see Fig. 47)

7) Attach supplied stainless steel -8an water lines to each end of cut heater core supply line using supplied worm drive clamps
(see Fig. 48) *trick, tighten worn gear clamps partially before installation

8) Install 2” Coupler & (2) t-Bolt Clamps to turbo outlet

9) Install Turbocharger & Manifold to the engine. Now is a good time to replace the factory gasket, torque to factory specs (see
Fig. 49) *note, insert turbo end first and then rotate 180 degree’s as you bring the manifold up to the manifold studs. This is very
tight and tricky, but it does fit, be patient.
10) Install the (2) -8an Stainless water lines onto the turbocharger & supplied blue aluminum AN hose fittings (see Fig. 49)

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11) Gently push the power steering line towards the block to make room for the air filter (see Fig. 50)
12) Install supplied K&N Filter & tighten (see Fig. 51) *note, if you slip the front of the filter through the wheel well it makes it much
easier to attach to the turbo inlet.

13) Remove engine mount damper (see Fig. 52)

14) Take soft rubber mallet and dent stock heat shield, not mandatory, but good idea to while you’re under there (see Fig. 53)

15) Install supplied M8 x 40mm Stud into far bolt hole on the turbocharger (see Fig. 54)
16) Install downpipe with supplied bolts, washers & high temp RTV silicone (see Fig. 55, 56, 57) *trick, install front bolt & washer
first, this allows you to rock the downpipe as you install the nut onto the stud, use alan wrench for the bolts
17) Reinstall engine mount damper & 1st 02 sensor
18) Here is where you have a muffler shop install a high flow CAT and 3” all the way back or have them tie into your current
exhaust.

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19) Remove factory oil pan, mark oil pan 2.5” from the inside and as far to the top as possible (see Fig. 61)
20) Drill a pilot hole and use a stepper bit to drill hole out to 9/16ths (see Fig. 62)
21) Tap hole with 3/8th NPT tap (see Fig. 63) *note, using grease on the tap helps keep debris down to a minimum
22) Install supplied 3/8th NPT drain line fittings into oil pan using High Temp RTV Silicone (see Fig. 64)
23) Reinstall factory oil pan using High Temp RTV Silicone. (see Fig. 64)

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24) Install supplied stainless steel braided oil drain line to the appropriate fittings on the turbo & oil pan (see Fig. 65) *note the line
must not have even the slightest uphill, ball bearing turbo’s are very temperamental with oil back up and pressure, any sag in the
line can cause oil seal issues with the turbo.

25) Remove factory oil pressure sending unit harness plug and factory sending unit (see Fig. 66)
26) Install factory oil pressure sending unit into supplied oil tee (see Fig. 67)
27) Install oil tee and BSP to NPT adapter into factory oil pressure sending unit location (see Fig. 68)
28) Install oil feed fitting to oil feed tee (see Fig. 68)
29) Install oil feed line to oil feed fitting (see Fig. 68)
30) Wire tie oil feed line to center cross member (see Fig. 69)
31) Reinstall factory oil pressure sending unit harness clip.

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Intercooler & Piping
1) Lay out piping, couplers, clamps & FMIC to make sure you have everything needed (see Fig. 70)

2) Install Pipe #1 w/ 2” couplers and T-Bolt Clamps (see Fig. 71, 72) Note: Trim the coupler to length to avoid pinching

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3) Install Pipe #2 w/ 2” – 2.5” coupler, 2.5” and T-Bolt Clamps (see Fig. 72, 73, 74) *note, you will have to trim the plastic
undercarriage for this pipe to fit

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4) Install Pipe #3 w/ (2) 2.5” Couplers and T-Bolt Clamps & add BOV (see Fig. 75, 76) *note, you may have to trim the plastic
undercarriage for this pipe to fit

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5) Install Pipe #4 w/ 2.5” Coupler & T-Bolt Clamps (see Fig. 78, 79)

6) Support Intercooler with jack stands or muffler stands to aid in alignment as you attach Pipe #2 & #3 (see Fig. 81) *note: align
intercooler with bottom of radiator support as a guide.

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7) Mount BOV onto Pipe #3 and install w/ 2.5” Couplers & T-Bolt Clamps.
8) Mount Factory MAF onto Pipe #4 w/ supplied screws
9) Align intercooler to the center of the bumper opening (see Fig. 89)
10) Align bracket to the bottom of the radiator support and front of the intercooler tab and drill 2 pilot holes with 1/8th” bit (see Fig.
90)
11) Install intercooler brackets with supplied self tapping screws (see Fig. 90)
12) Align front of bracket with FMIC tabs, drill hole w/ 9/32nd” Drill Bit , install and tighten with supplied M6 bolts, nuts & washers
(see Fig. 90) * note: wait to reinstall all of the undercarriage plastic until you test the install for leaks.

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13) Reinstall passenger side axel, wheel speed sensor, brake line and fill tranny with gear oil. *note: now is a good time to
upgrade to high grade gear oil

14) Remove Valve Cover Vent from Throttle body and cap Throttle body with supplied rubber cap. (1ZZ see Fig. 93, 2ZZ see Fig.
94) * note: leave the valve cover vent hose open to the atmosphere.

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Wiring ECU *** This kit includes a base map only, professional tuning to your specific application is
strongly suggested ***
1) Locate the factory ECU
2) Remove the factory plugs. (see Fig. 96) * note: leave the factory ECU unplugged until you are ready to start the vehicle. This
will allow it to reset all stored fuel trims, etc.
3) Wire ECU according factory manual wiring instructions, or use TurboKits.com Plug n Play Harness

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4) Install Water Injector following the included instructions; do not over tighten the plastic fittings they will crack. * note: only for
water injection upgrade

5) Vacuum Lines: Run 1st tee off throttle body & Remove VSV Plug (see Fig. 97), run lines to BOV, Wastegate, Boost Gauge and
Pressure sensor from water injection. (see Fig. 98, 99) * note: make sure you wire tie all fittings.

Setting Up AEM FIC:

Great info here: http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,24954.0.html
Setting COM Port: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEmhw0v8Y4o&feature=player_embedded

Open the base_cal.fi6 map in FIC folder on your hard drive. Then File --> Save As --> Rename it to Turbo-Base.

Next step is to open the Turbo-Base.fi6 file and click connect to FIC. A warning box will come up telling you that the
maps don't match and to either pull from the FIC or write to the FIC. You want to pull FROM FIC. Once this is done,
click File --> Save As --> Rename it to Turbo-Base-2 to have as a back-up. Disconnect the FIC and close the map.
Then re-open the Turbo-Base.fi6 file and click connect to FIC.

Next find the "Set Up" menu at the top and click Set Up --> Calibration --> a separate box will open up which will allow
you to set the TPS (Throttle Position) and the RPMs. These are self explanatory settings and the software will walk
you through the steps. Once the RPMs & TPS are set, you are done, the MAP is already on the FIC.

Start the car, let it warm up and idle, check for leaks, etc. Once the car is warm, shut it off and carefully (we use a
oven glove) retighten the bolts on the manifold to head, manifold to turbo and turbo to downpipe. The initial heat cycle
of the parts will give you a great opportunity to crank everything down.

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Final Checklist
• Review these instructions to make sure that all fasteners, clamps & electrical connections are installed & torqued correctly.

• Check that all hose routings are free of any kinks or near any hot or abrasive surfaces that may cause wear over time. Adjust or
reroute as necessary to provide adequate slack for engine movement.

• Reinstall the body work in the reverse order of its removal.

• Refill all fluids (oil and coolant) to factory recommended levels.

• Use regular non synthetic (factory weight) motor oil for the first 500 miles to allow the turbo rings to seat properly during the turbo
break-in.

• The use of synthetic oil (with the factory recommended oil weight) is strongly recommended after proper turbo break-in, as it will
prolong the life of the turbocharger. Regardless of factory recommended intervals, the addition of a turbocharger requires that the
oil be changed every 3,000 miles.

• The use of premium octane unleaded fuel (94 where available, if not 93 or 91) is required for proper engine performance and to
reduce the possibility of internal engine damage from detonation.

Starting the Vehicle

• Double check that all connections are correct, and that all bolts and studs have been fastened, as well as all intercooler pipes
couplers.

• Before starting up the car, make sure that all electrical connections are correct. Set the TPS & RPM within the AEM FIC.

• Cycle the ignition to the “ON” position several times to pressurize the fuel system & check for any leaks.

• Verify proper oil feed by disconnecting all of the spark plug wires from the spark plugs and take the oil feed line that connects to
the turbocharger and place the end into a cup. Turn the car over to verify that oil passes through the line. Crank for an additional
15 seconds to make sure the oil coming through the line is fresh and clean. After verifying oil flow, reattach the line to the turbo.
Then crank motor for (2) additional 15 second intervals to prime the turbo with oil before starting. Failure to follow these steps and
the turbo break-in may void your turbo warranty.

• Start the vehicle and check for any oil, power steering or air pressure leaks & recheck the oil and coolant level.

• Verify that the gasoline in the tank is a minimum of 91 (preferably 93, 94) octane.

• Start the car; allow 5-10 minutes to warm up without applying any throttle. After operating temperature has been achieved,
proceed to test drive the car staying out of boost during the turbo break-in period. If the check engine light comes on, use code
reader to verify error). Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for at least 30 seconds and test drive it again.

• Stop after initial test drive and check for oil leaks. Once cooled down, double check all nuts, bolts, fittings, and harnesses.

• Testing Boost Levels: Slowly bring the car up to speed (staying in compliance of all posted speed limits). Place the transmission
into a tall gear, 3rd works well, and slowly roll onto the throttle watching the boost gauge. Make sure the boost level stays within
the operating parameters of the kits intended use. If you are unclear or not capable of this, a quick trip to the local DYNO for some
DYNO runs and logging is an acceptable replacement (stay out of boost on the way there). At the same time you will need to
monitor the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) to assure they are within the safe operating parameters of the kits intended use.

• NOTE: It is normal for the vehicle to emit some amount of white smoke & a strange odor for an hour or two of operation, as the
oils within the exhaust pipes burn off.

The MAP has already been loaded onto the FIC, make sure when you first connect to the FIC that you hit the “FROM FIC” button
or you WILL overwrite the map and have to send the AEM FIC back to us. Also, the AEM FIC Map that is provided is ONLY A
BASE MAP, Custom tuning to your specific set up is highly suggested.

* Periodically, recheck the alignment of the system and hard piping to make sure that there is proper clearance. Also, check the filter for
excessive dirt build up. Failure to follow proper maintenance procedures may cause damage to the turbo system and will void the warranty

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