12 Model Airplane News - Superunitedkingdom

Step Up to Turbine Jets!
THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1929
SCALE
SPECIAL ISSUE
50 EXPERT
BUILDING AND
FINISHING TIPS
FMS Typhoon
Fly up a storm with this
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Monster Scale Skyraider

Must-see 30% Masterpiece
PLUS SECRETS FROM THE WORKSHOP
Display until November 1, 2016
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Parts 101 Details WW II

Plugs and molds Incredibly Markings
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Your Local Retailer horizonhobby.com 1.800.338.4639
CONTENTS
Volume 144
Number 12
December 2016
Features
30 How To: Paint and Apply Pastels
for Pilot Figures
Adding life and realism By Lyle Vasser
46 Gallery: Phil Clark’s

Monster-Scale Skyraider
The inside scoop on this 30 percent warbird
54
By Gerry Yarrish
60 How To: Make Fiberglass Parts

Plugs, molds, and layups explained By Lenny Stanko 40
72 So You Wanna Be a Jet Pilot?
Getting started has never been easier By Frank Tiano
78 Luftwaffe Scale Color and Markings

Getting German aircraft right By Dave Platt
86 How To: Produce a

Vacuum-Formed Canopy
What’s required to get a commercial part made
By Frank Tiano
30
Flight Tests
20 FMS Typhoon
A serious World War II ground-attack warbird
By Gerry Yarrish
40 Tower Hobbies
Ultimate Bipe GP/EP ARF
The ultimate in extreme aerobatics
By Klaus Ronge
54 E-flite/Horizon Hobby UMX P-51D

A mini Mustang for the masses By Gerry Yarrish
66 E-flite/Horizon Hobby
F4U-4 Corsair 1.2M
Who says that you can’t have a warbird as an
everyday flier? By Michael York
Departments
8 ‹ Preflight
78
10 ‹ Airwaves MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS (USPS 533-470; ISSN 0026-7295) is published monthly by Air Age Inc., 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897 USA. Copyright 2016, all rights reserved.
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EDITORIAL: Send correspondence to Editors, Model Airplane News, 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897 USA. Email: [email protected]. We welcome all editorial submissions but
14 ‹ Pilot Projects assume no responsibility for the loss or damage of unsolicited material. To authors, photographers, and people featured in this magazine: All materials published in Model Airplane News
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90 ‹ Let’s Talk Giant Scale
96 ‹ Product Watch ON THE COVER: Here at MAN, we appreciate seldom-modeled subjects, so we couldn’t wait to fly the 1100mm Typhoon from
Force RC. This receiver-ready model captures the dangerous lines of the full-size aircraft and has impressive performance.
98 ‹ Final Approach Get more details in this month’s review. (Photo by Peter Hall)
Preflight
BY GERRY YARRISH | SENIOR TECHNICAL EDITOR Est. 1929
EDITORIAL
Executive Editor Debra Cleghorn ›› [email protected]
Senior Technical Editor
Gerry Yarrish ›› [email protected]
West Coast Senior Editor John Reid ›› [email protected]
Associate Editor Matt Boyd ›› [email protected]
Copy Editor Suzanne Noel
CONTRIBUTORS
Jason Benson, Sal Calvagna, Budd Davisson,
Don Edberg, Mike Gantt, Dave Garwood, Dave Gierke,
Greg Gimlick, John Glezellis, Aaron Ham, Carl Layden,
Clarence Lee, Jim Newman, Greg Poppel, Mark Rittinger,
Jim Ryan, David Scott, Jerry Smith, Craig Trachten, Paul
Tradelius, Pat Tritle, Rich Uravitch, Nick Ziroli Sr.
ART
Creative Director Betty K. Nero
Art Director Kevin Monahan
DIGITAL MEDIA
Scale Special Issue Brian O’Meara
flies this
Web Producer Holly Hansen
amazingly VIDEO/PHOTOGRAPHY
FOR SEVERAL YEARS NOW, we have been publishing our December issue with Photographer Peter Hall
gigantic P-47
a big slice of scale RC modeling flavor. It has continued to be one of our most Thunderbolt Videographer Adam Lebenstein
popular issues, and I have to admit that the editors and I really enjoy putting the at many scale ADVERTISING
issue together. If you look decades back, our hobby, with its engines and radios, competitions. It Director Advertising & Marketing David J. Glaski
has been constantly changing and maturing for the better, but it is interesting can be considered ››203.529.4637 | [email protected]
at the top of the Strategic Account Manager Mitch Brian
to pick up a 1969, a 1975, or a 1980 issue of MAN and look at the scale models heap when it ››203.529.4609 | [email protected]
in those issues. Except for the hardware, those scale airplanes look a lot like our comes to giant- Senior Account Executive Ben Halladay
scale planes of today. In whatever scale the model was built, to make something scale modeling. ››203.529.4628 | [email protected]
special, you had to be a dedicated modeler—as you do now. Scale models also Account Executive Diane de Spirlet
bring with them history lessons and personal stories of the pilots that flew the ››203.529.4664 | [email protected]
real things. Ask any scale modeler why he picked the model he built, and you’ll CONSUMER MARKETING/PRODUCTION
The Media Source, a division of TEN,
get a complete (and accurate) history lesson on that particular airplane.
The Enthusiast Network
What has changed in our more contemporary times is the amazing radios,
MARKETING & EVENTS
engines, hardware, and the painting and finishing techniques top scale modelers
Marketing Assistant Erica Driver
are now using. Forget iron-on film coverings; serious scale aircraft today are Event Manager Emil DeFrancesco
finished with the highest degree of craftsmanship and truly are masterpieces in PUBLISHING
their own right. But these works of art are built to fly, and they do it in a proper Group Publishers Louis V. DeFrancesco Jr.,
scalelike manner as well—truly amazing. Yvonne M. DeFrancesco
FOLLOW US
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IN THIS for the workbench. It really is a great way to say good-bye to the 2016 flying
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We have lots of great Have you ever needed And of course, no scale One bit of scale building
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himself, Dave Platt. Tiano, shows how he contributor Lyle Vasser intimidating, but we have
There’s a lot more to had a canopy produced showing his amazing expert “glass man” Lenny
German markings than for one of his projects. techniques for turning a Stanko and his article
just some black-and- From building a proper scale pilot figure into a to give us all the ins and The Association of
Magazine Media
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white crosses, and Dave plug to the final “pull,” truly miniature airman. outs for producing plugs
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YOUR FEEDBACK
We love hearing from our readers: Your emails, tweets, and comments quickly let us know what you’d
like to see more (or less!) of in upcoming issues and online. Here’s what some of you are saying about
Model Airplane News magazine.
U In Our Mailbox
Shrunken Skyraider
I enjoy checking out your MAN website and all
the build-alongs and how-tos you have online.
I noticed that you are starting a new project in
the form of an 85-inch Douglas A-1 Skyraider—
one of my favorites. I have always wanted to
build the 100-inch version from the Ziroli plans,
so I have a question. Why, when everyone
seems to be enlarging plans to make larger
and larger RC planes, did you decide to go
the other way? What about the canopy and
engine cowl? Thanks for all your techie posts.
—Anthony Rodrigues
Facebook World’s Biggest RC Turbine Jet

There’s big—and there’s big! This new RC turbine-powered jet aircraft is the work of Frank
Schroeder, who has posted several images online covering its construction. It is a 1/2-scale Saab
JAS 39 Gripen, and it is 279.53 inches long and weighs in at an amazing 260.15 pounds! With a
thrust output of 220.46 pounds, it carries 18 liters of jet fuel (just under 5 gallons). Certainly at the
upper range of the Large Model Association’s regulations, this fantastic jet is amazing to watch fly.
You all had a lot to say after seeing the video. Thanks to Patrice G. for sharing it.
Dale Hepfner: It’s a bird! It’s a plane! Alan Hunter: The line between model,
No, it’s HulkaJet! drone, and aircraft are becoming more
and more blurred. LOL.
Rohan Carroll: Why not just build a
full-size plane, mount the transmitter Neil Cloughley: The 2016 Brazilian Anthony, thanks for checking out our Model
in the cockpit, and get in? You need to “lawn dart” competition just got AirplaneNews.com website. We enjoy the
lift your game. LOL. serious! feedback, and just about all of our workbench-
based posts continue to be very popular. As for
the Skyraider project, I decided to reduce Nick
Ziroli’s Skyraider plan by 15 percent for a few
reasons. First is overall size: A 100-inch warbird,
ModelAirplaneNews.com for me, requires the use of my 6 x 10-ft.
Easy Repairs travel trailer, even if I want to go just to my
club’s local flying field, while the reduced one
We all do it sooner or later, and damage our will fit into my Grand Cherokee. Also, in general,
beautiful RC plane. Some crashes are worse than using a smaller engine (43cc Fuji) and smaller
others, but with a little effort, most airplanes can be hardware items, like retracts, is a big budget
mended to fly another day. We posted some great saver. The 85-inch size allows many general
tips for repairing your bent bird, and you all had lots hardware items designed for several of the Top
to say. Here are just a few of your comments. Flite giant-scale ARFs to drop right into place.
I got lucky with the canopy—a 13-inch WW II
AV8TOR: Take all of the pieces home no matter Flyoz: It never ceases to amaze me bubble canopy from SIG Mfg. is a perfect match.
how upset you feel or how hopeless it looks. Put how even really bad crashes are so Also, I am going to make a full-size plug, and
them aside for a week or more. Then once the easily repaired. Take all the bits back with the help of a friend with experience using
shock, hurt, and anger have worn off, have an home and lay them out. A little patience fiberglass and resin, we will produce a molded
unbiased look at it. Things usually don’t look nearly and a recovery of the damage really cowl. So stay tuned—this all will be part of
as bad once you calm down. work miracles. future MAN tech posts!—GY
facebook.com/ twitter.com/ pinterest.com/ instagram.com/ youtube.com/ feedback@ Model Airplane News

modelairplanenews modelairplanenews modelairplanenews modelairplanenews airagemedia airage.com 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897
Tips&Tricks USEFUL HINTS FROM MODELERS | Illustrations by Richard Thompson
HOMEMADE FUEL-LINE BARBS

I hate it when the fuel line comes off inside the fuel tank. It
usually causes a dead stick and damage to the model. To
avoid this, wind copper wire onto the brass fuel tube and
cut the wire with pliers to produce one ring of copper wire
near the end. Clean the joint, and solder the ring to the
tube. Use just enough solder to form a small fillet around
the wire and ring, and let it cool off. Slide your silicone or
Tygon gas fuel line in place, and secure with a tie wrap.
Eduardo Roesch, Guatemala City, Guatemala
GARAGE STORAGE SPACE

When you need more storage space for wings, the garage door can work nicely.
Just fasten the wings to an individual door panel (the wing needs to fit within
perimeter of panel) with a strap and foam padding. With the garage door closed or
open, the wings stay out of the way. Carl Layden, Paradise, NL, Canada
HEAT SHRINK SECURITY SIMPLE BALANCER

Use heat-shrink tubing to secure your receiver Check out this simple, homemade device to find the
battery connector to your ignition or radio-power center of gravity for your model. Use an old aluminum
switch. It’s an inexpensive way to ensure that it landing gear from your repair box, a 12-inch piece of
never comes loose in flight to cause a crash. It’s easy scrap wood for the base, and a couple of bolts with large
Sponsored by to remove with a hobby knife and does not leave a washers. It’s easy to make modifications to fit your
sticky residue behind, like tape does. needs, and it’s portable. Ron Falk, Reedley, CA
Shane Smethwick, Flint, MI
SEND IN YOUR IDEAS! We want your ideas for Tips & Tricks! This month’s winners will receive a $50 glue
assortment from Bob Smith Industries. Send a photo or rough sketch and a brief description to [email protected]
or Model Airplane News, c/o Air Age Media, 88 Danbury Rd., Wilton, CT 06897 USA.
Pilot Projects SHOWCASING WHAT YOU BUILD & FLY | Email entries to: [email protected]
J-3 CUB
Rick Trigatti, Grimsby, ON, Canada
P I LO T T Starting with three-views, Rick designed and built this 55-inch-span Cub and
PROJEHCE added custom-made decals. He notes that the plane, which is powered by a Turnigy
OF T Park 480-1320 motor on a 3S 2200mAh pack, flies “just like a Cub [and] happily
MONTH lifts off at 3/4 power and likes to float on landings.”
EXTRA 300S
Alexandre Nunes, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
This photo shows two proud firsts: son Arthur flying Alexandre’s first kit-built
plane. We can’t say whether we’re more impressed by Alexandre’s first model
or by his willingness to let a new pilot take the sticks, but bravo either way! This
ULTIMATE
Great Planes Extra 300S model is powered by an O.S. .91 four-stroke engine.
Anderson Pereira, São José do Rio Preto, Brazil

Anderson writes that his Carl Goldberg Ultimate was built by our friend
John Garutti in 1996, but made only one flight and was kept in his workshop
for 20 years. Anderson bought the model and refurbished it, adding a Saito
FG-17 radial and Futaba radio gear.
NIEUPORT 28C
Stan Zdon, Coon Rapids, MN
After building this Balsa USA 1/4-scale kit, Stan covered it using Solartex
with latex house paint oversprayed with a Krylon matte finish and added
147th Aero Squadron markings from Callie Graphics. A Saito 150 powers this
14-pound warbird.
SEND IN YOUR PICTURES! Model Airplane News is your magazine, and we encourage reader participation.
Email your high-resolution images to [email protected] with your contact information and details on your project.
Every pilot we feature will receive a Model Airplane News baseball cap, and the “Pilot Project of the Month” winner will
receive a $200 gift code for anything at jramericas.com.
Flightline YOUR #1 SOURCE FOR RC NEWS
Dromida Voyager
Ideal for new pilots, this sport-scale model
flies slow and easy, and it comes with
everything you need for first-flight success,
including a 4-channel radio. We like its scale
details, like the wing rib detail, panel lines, and
wheel pants. This 19.5-inch-span model costs
$89.99. dromida.com
Tactic DroneView
1080p HD Wi-Fi FPV Camera
You can shoot video and photos in real time with this 3.8 x 1.4-inch,
1.1-ounce camera. It can download or stream real-time content via Wi-Fi
onto your smartphone or tablet and has a Wi-Fi range of up to 492 feet! It
costs $139.99. tacticrc.com
Futaba GY440
Series Gyros
Whether you’re looking for a
single-servo, dual-servo, or
helicopter gyro, Futaba has you Hitec RDX1
covered. These ultra-lightweight and If you’re looking for a battery charger/discharger/
compact gyros are easy to set up balancer that can handle all types of battery
and are SBus and SBus2 compatible. chemistries, this compact tower design is a great
Select direction and mode using choice. In addition to front-loading plugs, it has an
dipswitches, with green and red easy-to-read, 3.2-inch LCD screen, balancing and
LED indicators. Each costs $79.99. temperature sensor ports, a USB link, and Hitec’s
futabarc.com Charge Master software. The RDX1 costs $59.99.
hitecrcd.com
Hacker-Model Foam Aerobats

Low weight, high strength, durability—what more could you ask for? These new Hacker-Model planes will suit pilots of every skill level,
from first-time fliers to precision aerobatics masters and all-out freestyle enthusiasts. Five new models range from $49.99 to $99.99.
towerhobbies.com
E-flite Icon A5
Flying off water is more fun than should be legal,
and it’s easy with this officially licensed scale
Z-Foam flier. The 52.5-inch-span model comes with
a brushless power system and the servos installed,
and you can even add an optional nose light set for
the ultimate in scale realism. The PNP version is
$199.99; the BNF is $229.99. e-fliterc.com
Futaba SBS-01C
Current Sensor
Get in the know with your model’s real-time
motor current and battery capacity and
voltage! This sensor allows you to set
vibrating or audible alarms and
use your transmitter’s data-
logging functions for more
detailed analysis. The
SBS-01C costs $69.99.
futabarc.com
Tactic FPV-C1
Turn your favorite model into a first-
person-view flier with some double-
sided tape and this lightweight unit
that’s less than an inch long! The C1
can even be mounted in an FPV racer
and is compatible with Tactic 5.8GHz
FPV equipment. The 600TVL resolution
camera costs $49.99. tacticrc.com
Flyzone Rapide
If you’ve mastered the basics of sailplane flight and are ready for some
excitement, the Rapide delivers high speeds and extreme, high-G aerobatics!
Its full-flying stabilizer reduces drag and improves aerodynamics. The
Rapide comes assembled with a brushless power system and four installed
microservos; just add your 4-channel radio and 3S 2200mAh pack and
conquer the skies. It costs $219.99.
flyzoneplanes.com
Blade 250 CFX

Ready to transition to sport aerobatics? Equipped with
SAFE technology, this heli makes it easy to get into
collective-pitch heli flying. Start out in stability mode,
then move up as your skills increase. Panic Recovery
mode is your flight insurance! This 3D-capable
machine comes with its powerful brushless power
system and servos installed; just add your compatible
6-channel radio and 3S 1500mAh pack. The 250 CFX
costs $329.99. bladehelis.com
DECEMBER 2016 17
Flight Test
SPECIFICATIONS GEAR USED
MODEL: Hawker Typhoon RADIO: OrangeRx T-Six transmitter
TYPE: WW II warbird (receiver-ready) and OrangeRx R1020X receiver
MANUFACTURER: FMS (fmsmodel.com)
DISTRIBUTOR: Force RC (forcerc.com)
(hobbyking.com); six 9g servos (installed)
MOTOR: Brushless 3536-850Kv and FMS
Typhoon
WINGSPAN: 43.3 in. Predator 40A speed control (installed)
WING AREA: 305.4 sq. in. BATTERY: Kinexsis 3S 2200mAh 11.1V 30C
WEIGHT: 45.6 oz. (horizonhobby.com)
WING LOADING: 21.5 oz./sq. ft. PROPELLER: Scale 3-blade (included)
MOTOR INCL’D: 3536-850Kv brushless
RADIO REQ’D: 6-channel A serious World War II
PRICE: $179.99 HIGHLIGHTS
Great scale looks ground-attack warbird
Functional flaps and retracts BY GERRY YARRISH PHOTOS BY PETER HALL
Excellent flight performance
Intended as a low- to midlevel

interceptor, the Hawker Typhoon was one
of only a few aircraft capable of taking on
the Luftwaffe’s Focke-Wulf FW 190s at low
altitude. Equipped with four formidable
20mm cannon and later equipped with
rockets, the Typhoon quickly became the
most successful low-level ground-attack
aircraft to come out of the WW II.
The new 1100mm Typhoon from FMS
captures the mean and dangerous lines
of the full-size aircraft, and it has the
impressive performance to match. A
receiver-ready foam warbird, it takes less
than 20 minutes out of the box to get the
Typhoon ready to fly.
The large top fuselage hatch makes battery changes quick and
easy. It is magnetically secured and fits precisely.
FLIGHT TEST FMS TYPHOON
There’s plenty of room

for the flight gear. The
battery is secured to
a removable slide-out
tray, and the servo
leads from the wing
are all managed with
the black connector
block shown next to
the receiver.
UNIQUE FEATURES
All you need to complete the package is a
6-channel transmitter and receiver as well as
a 3S 2200mAh LiPo flight battery and charger.
All the servos are factory installed, as are the
brushless motor and the speed controller.
The Typhoon comes with functional split
flaps, and electric-powered retracts are also
factory installed. All you have to do is install the
propeller and spinner, attach the horizontal
stabilizer halves, and attach the wing to the
fuselage with four long screws, which thread
into metal inserts in the wing saddle. The
stabilizer halves slide over a carbon-fiber rod
for strength and are held in place with small
tabs and self-tapping screws. The rudder Above left: The scale 3-blade propeller and spinner
comes attached to the control linkage, but the come with the Typhoon and take only a minute or two
to install. Above: The scale pilot figure is a nice touch
elevator control horn needs to be attached
and adds realism to the cockpit. Left: The only gluing
to its control linkage. You do need to power involved in the assembly is when adding the four-
the receiver to center the elevator servo so wing cannon; the author used Zap canopy glue.
that you can properly adjust the length of the
pushrod. The only gluing needed is for installing
the four molded-plastic wing cannon.
There is a removable battery tray that
comes with Velcro straps to hold the battery
in place, and the tray slides into place using
The Typhoon is well equipped for any combaT
maneuvers ThaT you care To Try. loops and
rolls are efforTless, and The verTical climb
performance has plenTy of power To spare.
molded-plastic guide channels. You have to pull

the speed controller out of the way to slide the
battery pack into place, then reposition it above
the battery. For this review, I used HobbyKing’s
OrangeRx T-Six transmitter and the OrangeRx
R1020X receiver. All of the servo leads are
labeled, so it is easy to plug everything in
properly. A nice feature is that, instead of using
long Y-harnesses to pair up the dual servos
for flaps, ailerons, and the dual retract drive
motors, the Typhoon comes with a single multi-
connector block equipped with labeled output
leads. These are passed through the opening in
Above: Here, you see the split flaps in the extended position. Clear tape protects the wing servo leads, which are the wing saddle and are long enough to easily
routed through the molded channel in the bottom of the wing. Below: The aileron servos are also installed in the plug into the receiver.
wing panels, just forward of the control surfaces. A note of caution: When setting up your
radio, it is recommended to power your receiver
only with the speed control plugged into the
throttle port, as the controller has a built-in
voltage regulator. If you use a separate receiver
battery, be sure that it is 6 volts or less; using a
battery with more than 6 volts will burn out the
drive motors in the retractable landing gear.
IN THE AIR
As with most tail-dragger warbirds of this
size, ground handling on a smooth surface is
excellent with its steerable tailwheel. Also, the
main landing-gear wheels are positioned far
enough forward to have good handling on a
well-kept grass runway. The brushed motor
and 40A speed controller provide spirited
performance, and it takes no time at all to
become airborne.
FLIGHT TEST FMS TYPHOON
Last of a Breed
Today, only a single complete
Hawker Typhoon still survives
(serial number MN235), and until
very recently, it has been on
permanent display at the Royal Air
Force Museum in north London.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

Previously MN235 was on display
at the National Air and Space
Museum (part of the Smithsonian
Institution) in Washington, D.C.,
before being presented to the
RAF Museum. In celebration of
the RAF’s 50th anniversary, the
Typhoon was exchanged for a
Hawker Hurricane. It is currently
on loan to the Canada Aviation and
Space Museum in Ottawa.
The retracts come factory installed and include rugged plastic gear doors. The main gear are electrically driven and are very sturdy for flying off of grass.
GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCE PILOT DEBRIEFING

Stability: The Typhoon is nicely stable while still The Typhoon is equipped with split flaps, and
having excellent control response. Whether with them fully deployed, you can shorten your
coming down in a high-speed dive or just landing approach by flying a steeper descent
tooling around at reduced power, the Typhoon without gaining excess airspeed. With both the
remains stable and controllable. landing gear and flaps lowered, it is important
Tracking: The length and the size of the vertical to keep a bit more power applied to overcome
fin and rudder provide excellent tracking, the increased drag. With the flaps deployed, the
whether in straight flight or in a banked turn. Typhoon has a nose-down pitch change, which
Aerobatics: The Typhoon is well equipped for actually helps in the landing; there is no need to
any combat maneuvers that you care to try. add in down-elevator mixing.
Loops and rolls are effortless, and the vertical
climb performance has plenty of power to BOTTOM LINE
spare. You can easily do half reverse Cuban-8s With excellent scale lines, authentic RAF paint
for turnaround maneuvers, and even in inverted scheme and markings, this Hawker Typhoon
flight, there is more than enough elevator is a welcome relief from all the Spitfires and
authority to maintain level flight. Hurricanes on the market today. It looks mean
Here, the tailwheel assembly is shown. It is intercon-
Glide and stall performance: The airplane has and flies great as it hunts for its next target of
nected with the rudder linkage and provides good a fairly light wing loading, so it remains well opportunity. J
ground steering. behaved pulled into a stall, with easy recovery
with application of power and releasing
up-elevator. Power-off glides also are stable
and predictable.
HOW TO
Paint and Apply Pastels

for Pilot Figures
ADDING LIFE AND REALISM TEXT & PHOTOS BY LYLE VASSER
Scale pilot figures are

an important part of any
scale RC aircraft. In many
competitions, they are
required, and showing up
with a plane that has an
empty cockpit will cost
you points. Lyle Vasser,
longtime MAN contributor
and owner/operator of
Best Pilots, has brought
detailing and painting pilot
figures to a true art form.
We asked Lyle to write this
article so that he could
share his techniques and
materials for getting the
most realism possible from
one of his pilot figures—
specifically, the pilot’s face.
PREPARE THE FIGURE

The most important first step
is to seriously clean your pilot
figure. Before painting it, you have
to ensure that it is free from any
mold-release agents, oil, and dirt. If
you don’t clean it, the paint won’t
adhere to the surface properly.
Also at this time, remove all
flashing and traces of the seams
from the molding process. To clean
the figure, I use denatured alcohol
and an old toothbrush, and give
the figure a good scrubbing.
You should probably plan for
about a weekend to paint your
pilot figure. That’s not much of an
investment when you consider all
the time, effort, and money you’ve
put in your scale warbird. I’m
going to use the latest pilot figure
from Best Pilots, RAF ace “Sailor”
Malan, as my subject.
Lyle Vasser doing what he does

best: producing and painting Best
Pilots figures.
AIRBRUSH THE FIRST LAYERS
First, we are going to use an airbrush. Using this tool After thoroughly cleaning the pilot figure, use an airbrush to
sometimes makes me angrier than dealing with a stripped apply MMA Sand to achieve a Caucasian skin tone.
servo gear, but thankfully, this step is pretty painless. I use
almost exclusively Model Master Acrylic (MMA) model
paints by Testors. I like that they are water soluble, and my
local hobby shop has a great selection of colors to choose
from. My base coat for Caucasian skin is MMA Sand. Don’t
worry if the skin color is too light at this stage because the
subsequent steps will make it look right.
Fill half of the airbrush cup with Sand paint, and fill the
rest with Windex. Yep! Plain old Windex window cleaner. The
Windex thins the acrylic and helps keep it from drying too
quickly when it goes through the airbrush. Airbrush the Sand color in very thin layers.
It is better to do multiple thin layers than one thick—and usually runny—one. This
should give you an even base coat without obliterating all that nice detail in the pilot’s
face. It also gives the surface a microscopic “tooth” for the pastels in the next step to
cling to. (Don’t forget to clean your airbrush when you’re done.)
Available at art-supply stores, the pastels you need are Burnt BRUSH ON THE PIGMENTS
Umber, Dark Rose, Burnt Sienna, and Red. Using a fine piece
of sandpaper as a palette, grind some of the chalk onto the Because I paint well over a hundred pilots a year, I need to do it fairly quickly. Using
sandpaper, creating a fine dust of pigment. Using a small makeup pastels or chalk is the quickest technique that I have found, thus far, to achieve a
brush, apply the pastels to the pilot’s face. subtle airbrushed look. People think pastels are not lightfast nor durable, but they
are actually the most durable
medium in the art world because
they are practically pure pigment.
When applied, pastels are
surprisingly durable but become
permanent only when covered
with a protective clear coat.
The pastel colors needed are
Burnt Umber, Dark Rose, Burnt
Sienna, and Red. Using a fine
piece of sandpaper as a palette,
grind some of the chalk onto the
sandpaper, creating a fine dust
of pigment. I hate to admit it, but
I’ve found that using a makeup
brush (gasp!) works very well
for this part because applying
this pigment is a lot like—well, is
exactly like—applying makeup.
Ignore the threat of getting
thrown out of the RC “he-man
Load the brush with
Burnt Umber dust, and
club” for applying “makeup” to
lightly brush where there are your pilot; when the other fliers
shadow areas: eye sockets, see how good your pilot looks,
nostrils, under the chin, under they will let you back in.
the helmet, all the way around
Load the brush with Burnt
the neck, and a little around
the eyebrows. Be sure to Umber dust, and lightly brush
brush out the last color applied anywhere that there is a shadow
before moving on to the next. area on the head: eye sockets,
Do not wash the brush.
nostrils, under the chin, under
the helmet, all the way around
DECEMBER 2016 31
HOW TO PAINT PILOT FIGURES
the neck, and a little around the eyebrows.

The area around the eyebrows will help the
painted-on eyebrows blend into the face
better. Subtlety is the key here. You don’t
want to see a big change. My rule is that
as soon as I see the color start to change, I
stop. The pilot should look as if he has been
down in a coal mine for about 20 minutes,
not all day!
APPLY A 12 O’CLOCK SHADOW

Here’s a realistic effect that separates
the men from the boys. If you observe
the subtle changes in color on people’s
faces, you’ll notice that most men have
varying degrees of a beard shadow. I think Lightly dust
Burnt Umber best simulates shaved facial on the Burnt
hair and helps make the figure look the Umber to
simulate shaved
most “real.” The heavier you apply the facial hair.
pigment, the surlier your pilot will look. I
would err on the side of lighter application
for blond pilots and heavier application for
dark-haired pilots.
A WORD ABOUT GRADIENTS

The key to creating an intriguing portrait is
to have nice smooth gradients. For some
reason, our eyes are drawn to a smooth
gradient rather than a constant color.
Always apply your pigment so that it is
darker in the shadows and deeper areas,
then “feather” the pigment out lighter as
it moves into the lighter or higher areas.
This accents the features or “topography”
of the figure and makes up for it being
small. Because the figure is smaller, it can’t
have shadows as dark as its full-scale
counterpart. Here are some
Next, brush out the last color used before area guides
for the various
moving on to the next. Do not wash the pastel colors
brush. A wet brush and pastel dust is not a and where to
good combination! Just swipe the dry brush apply them.
back and forth on an old clean T-shirt until
you don’t see any more of the previous
color. This is a small area to do, so it will only
take a second. Load the makeup brush with
Dark Rose pastel dust. Now dust that inside,
between the lips. This will make the lips
look more natural, with a dark reddish color
there. Don’t go crazy—just barely change
the color to differentiate the lips. Now load
the brush with Burnt Sienna.
This is our midcolor tone and the
“workhorse” of the pastel portrait colors.
This will be applied to areas around the nose,
on the nose (a lot of people’s noses are
more red than the rest of their face), under
and up to the cheekbones, under the eyes,
under the jaw, and around the neck. Don’t
forget the back of the neck! Just give a few
brushes up and down to give it some tonal
change, and that will do the job. You should
notice the pastel clinging to the texture
HOW TO PAINT PILOT FIGURES
Be subtle: Touch just a pinhead bit of pastel under the

highest point of the cheek. Follow with just a touch at
the outermost part of the lower lip, and blend that in.
None is needed on the upper lip.
left by the airbrush. You should also see your pilot

figure starting to appear less anemic.
The final application is the Red pastel. This stuff is
powerful and if you aren’t careful with it, your pilot
could look as if he is ready to audition for Cirque du
Soleil in Las Vegas! Touch just a pinhead amount of
pastel under the highest point of the cheek. Not
a circle on the highest cheek—that will make him
ready for the circus—but just under, and blend that
in. Next is just a touch at the outermost part of
the lower lip. Blend that in. None is needed on the
upper lip because it then starts to look like lipstick.
Lipstick on your male pilot figure will definitely
get you thrown out of the RC “he-man club”! OK, When the pastels
the pastels are all in place. Your pilot’s complexion are all in place, your
pilot’s complexion
should look as if he has been out in the sun a bit.
should look as if
he has been out in
FINAL STEP the sun a bit. Now
This step is critical: You must give the pastels a you’re ready to
apply clearcoat.
protective coat. I prefer Testors Dullcote out of a
plain old rattle can. You can warm up the can in a pot
of warm water for a bit, then shake well and mist
the flat on. Do not put on a heavy coat. Two very
light coats are effective. This seals the pastels and
sort of blends them together a bit, as well. 
Any pilot figure adds realism to the model’s overall

appearance. The added detail makes this Best Pilots
figure, shown here in a Top Flite giant-scale Spitfire
ARF, come to life.
Engine Clinic
BY CLARENCE LEE
Vintage Power
Questions Answered
efore we get to our letters this month, I would like to bring to your
B attention two websites that I am sure readers who are interested in

engine technicalities will find interesting. One is on compression ratio
and the other on combustion chamber shapes. Both sites have been
written by my good friend Randy Linsalato, who in conjunction with his wife,
Anching, own and operate K&B/MECOA. If you are interested in some of the
technical aspects of how our model engines operate as well as photos showing
how to measure an engine’s bore and stroke and how to set the head clearance,
you will find these sites interesting reading. The websites are mecoa.com/faq/
compression/compression.htm and mecoa.com/faq/squish/squish.htm.
Q&A Email your questions to Clarence Lee at [email protected].
CONDOR .91 FOUR-STROKE Answer: Samuel, I’m afraid I can’t be of

U I’m a longtime reader of MAN and much help regarding information on your
like to collect and run antique and Condor .91 as I have never had one of the
oddball model-aircraft engines. engines in my hands. What I do know
Yes, I do fly RC and have been has come from small mentions I have
building models since the age of three. read over the years in the various model
I’m one of the last few scratch-builders publications. Peter Chinn, who used to
left. The main reason I am writing you do engine reviews and other articles for
is a bit of a quandary I’m having over an Model Airplane News, did a small bit on the
engine I own that nobody seems to know engine back in the November 1983 issue in
anything about. When I purchased it, the his Round Up column, where most of my
engine didn’t run or start too well, and information comes from, most of which
I attempted many things to try to get it you already know.
right; most failed. However, for the benefit of our
The engine in question is an English- readers who are probably not
made Condor .91 four-stroke. At first, familiar with the engine, it was
I tried different fuels, glow plugs, made in England by a fellow named
carburetors, and exhaust systems. Dennis Allen. The engine was a bit
Nothing seemed to work. As soon as the unusual in that the crankcase and head
glow igniter was removed, the engine were machined from bar-stock aluminum
would blubber to a stop. Leaning the fuel The 1980s-era English-made Condor .91 featured a and not castings. Also unusual was the use
machined-aluminum bar- stock crankcase and head
mixture only served to “blow out the and an overhead rotary valve rather than a camshaft of a rotary valve in the head driven by a
fire” even more quickly—even with the and valves. toothed belt at half crankshaft speed. The
igniter still attached. I made a manifold rotary valve was similar to a front intake
and switched to O.S. and SuperTigre sealing surface, 0.06 inch deeper than two-stroke engine’s crankshaft in that the
carburetors—still no luck. I tried changing the original seal. I checked the top of the intake fuel/air mixture enters the engine
the rotary barrel valve timing but still no cylinder barrel and determined it was through a port in the crankshaft. The
improvement. I finally got tired of cranking clean and flat. Some 6061 aluminum scrap Condor .91’s exhaust cycle also uses the
it over and decided to tear it down. That’s bar stock was machined into a serviceable same port without any valves or related
when I discovered the head gasket was head gasket. The face of the head was valve parts, which reduced the engine’s
missing, and a gooey layer of some kind machined to prevent interference with the parts count considerably. The only problem
of sealer had been applied to the head and top of the barrel flange. Once cleaned up here would be the differential expansion
the top of the barrel. It wasn’t sealing at all. and reassembled, the Condor fired up, by rates of the aluminum head and steel
After cleaning out the sealer, I mounted hand, the first try. Why the head gasket rotary valve. Not having seen the engine,
the head in a four-jaw chuck that indicated was omitted is beyond me, but it runs. Now I cannot say if a bronze bushing may have
it was concentric and square. A light cut the question: What size prop should I be been pressed into the head. The engine
with a small boring bar revealed the using on this engine? I used to know these also had the nice feature of a built-in fuel
sealing surface looked more like a Google things, but I’ve been flying electrics the pump. As for a propeller, a 14x6 would be a
Earth photo of the Rocky Mountains. I past few years, and as you know, electric is good starting size for a .91-size engine.
machined the head until I got a nice, clean a whole different game.—Samuel Will
Here, a Vintage Motorcycle Tools’ degree wheel and
pointer is mounted on a K&B 61. It’s a must if you are
OIL FLASH POINTS into engine modification or setting spark timing.
U All instructions I’ve read for my Webra
Speed 120 state to use synthetic two-cycle
oil after break-in. I broke my engine in with
a nonsynthetic oil to help seat the ring, and
I’m ready to switch to synthetic. My limited
research shows that the flash point of
the popular synthetics ranges from 214°F
(Pennzoil) to 460°F (Klotz). I remember
from reading your articles in RC Modeler in
the ’70s that you favored Klotz over castor,
but you warned emphatically that the Klotz
would not stand up to a lean run due to its
lower flash point and reduced film strength.
I’m running a head temperature of 215°F in
warm weather. The recommended range
for my engine is 195°F to 235°F. It appears
that an oil with a flash point of only 214°F
would be very marginal. My inclination is to
run Klotz R5O, which has a flash point of
460°F and a high film strength, approaching
castor. It’s a 50-weight oil. Again, what do
you recommend?—Henry Weeks
SPARK TIMING
Answer: Henry, you are correct in U I have always read your column,
saying that the flash point of most of and though I have never sent in a
the synthetic oils range in temperature question, it seems that the answers I
from 214°F to 450°F. However, all of the needed were always available in your answers
literature I have for Klotz oil says 535°F, and explanations to other people. One question
the same as castor oil. The flash point is I do have is about finding spark timing. I seem to
the temperature at which the oil vaporizes remember reading somewhere about using a piece
and goes up in smoke. Here is where of wire as a pointer and a protractor mounted on the
castor has an advantage: As it burns, it prop shaft, but the details are lost to me somewhere
creates a shellac type varnish that further in the mists of time. Thank you for your help, and keep up the good work.—Nelson Nix
protects the moving parts, something
the synthetics do not do. Klotz markets Answer: Nelson, it was back in the September 1994 column that I did an article on using
its KL-200 oil, which is partially castor, a protractor and wire pointer to determine an engine’s valve timing, spark timing, etc.
for high-temperature-operating engines. A 360-degree protractor can be purchased at any drafting equipment shop and many
However, the synthetics do not turn to goo craft shops. Most have an open center, so all you have to do is glue or screw about an
when an engine is out of operating and do inch-wide piece of plywood, aluminum, or whatever material you have available to the
not thicken in cold weather, and they clean protractor and drill a hole in the center the diameter of the engine’s crankshaft. The
up easier. Their advantage outweighs any pointer can be made from a piece of 1/6-inch
disadvantage. I would go with Klotz. I have wire with a loop in one end for attaching to
been using Klotz KL-100, which the engine’s mounting lug with a bolt and
is known as “good old Klotz,” nut. A fellow named Lex Liberato has a
for more than 40 years now. free download of a printable degree
wheel, which can be printed out
and attached to whatever material
you have available. At the site
vintagemotorcycletools.com/
Degree_Wheel.htm, Lex also
Klotz KL-200
contains some has a ready-to-use beautiful
castor oil and laser-etched steel degree wheel,
is intended
for engines available for only $19.95 plus
that operate $3 shipping. It’s a must-have if
at high
temperatures.
you are into modifying engines,
checking the ignition timing on your
gas burner, etc. The degree wheel can
also be ordered from Vintage Motorcycle
Tools, PO Box 6131, Goodyear, AZ 85338.
Here’s a close-up view showing the face of the
timing wheel.
DECEMBER 2016 37
Engine CLinic
STARTING ISSUES With that as my background,

U I have been reading your columns when I started building a new
for years and thoroughly enjoy them. I .60size warbird in 2014, I thought
have been using glow engines for my maybe I could get rid of the
RC planes from the time I have been in annoying bearings’ failure
the hobby—which now is approaching in glow engines by going
20 years. I have bought only O.S. glow to a gasoline engine, and
engines and, in general, have been purchased an O.S. GT15.
quite well pleased with their per Last weekend, I was ready to
formance. Although I take every fire this new engine up and
precaution to use afterrun oil and perform some simple taxi
other preventative measures after tests prior to the maiden flight
flying, many of my engines usually of the plane. I had read that using
require a trip to the shop within a Coleman camping fuel and Honda
few years for new rings. I make it a racing synthetic oil would give me
point never to run the engine in a lean very good performance in this engine,
manner. I have a twostroke gasoline even though the octane rating of
chain saw I bought new, which is more Coleman fuel is only about 55. Plus, I
than 35 years old. I can let it sit in was concerned about commercially
the plastic factory storage/traveling available gasoline and all the “junk”
container for several years, pull it they put it in (like ethanol!).
out, fill it up with fuel, choke it, and in I followed the printed O.S.
pretty short order, with pulls of the instructions exactly and had
cord, that baby fires up and I cut down severe starting problems. Even
my tree. I am a happy twostroke after 20–30 seconds with
engine owner. The engine has never a powerful 18volt LiPo An O.S. GT15 engine.
had to be serviced. battery starter, the engine
WHAT MAKES AN AMA MEMBERSHIP

SUCH A GOOD DEAL FOR $75
Flying models is a safe activity. But sometimes accidents can happen involving
people or property. Enjoy peace of mind flying by knowing the AMA has you
covered. It would cost you $1,000 a year or more to buy this insurance on your
own. And you’re covered whether you choose to fly at an AMA club field, park,
backyard or wherever. Just join the AMA, fly for recreational fun and operate
within the AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code.
MEMBER INSURANCE BENEFIT IF YOU PURCHASED IT

$2.5 Million Liability Umbrella $400 or more a year
$25,000 Medical Coverage $600 or more a year
$1,000 Fire and Theft Coverage $30 or more a year
GLOW/GAS ISSUES
took an exceedingly long time to ever provided a slightly rich operation for Our last letter is the kind I like to receive in that the
fire for the first time. It would fire once break-in. I am hopeful and optimistic sender, Greg Wagner, shares his experience with us
and quit. After another 15–25 seconds that, now that it has run once, it about how he solved his own problem. Thanks, Greg.
of applying the starter, it would fire will fire right up without the initial
again. Once, without belaboring difficulties I had earlier. Reader comment: I was glad to see in your last
the time spent trying to finally get Keep up the excellent information column that someone mention the problem that
the engine running, it took about in Engine Clinic. I learn something some of us have had with the O.S. glow/gas
15 minutes to finally get the needle new every time I read your articles. engines. We cured our problem with the GGT10 and
valve adjusted to the point where —Herman Burton the GGT15. We wrote to Tower Hobbies (Hobbico)
the engine would run. After finally and sent a letter to Japan, and no one could help.
getting to this point and numerous Answer: Herman, I believe your The first thing we tried was to use an angled nipple
needle-valve adjustments, the engine problem is just a matter of not getting from another manufacturer’s carb that was at an
ran OK. It had an excellent response, enough fuel into the carburetor to angle of about 30 degrees. This moved the fuel line
a very reliable idle, and apparently an begin with. Try leaving the ignition and filter away from the cylinder head and the heat
acceptable level of power upon full off and hit the engine with the starter source. The other was a movement of the pump out
throttle with the recommended 15x8 for about 10 seconds with the needle 1/8 inch by putting some spacers in between the
prop. The weather here has not been valve set about a half turn richer than pump and the back housing. This takes the pump
conducive to any more attempts at the regular running position. Then away from the engine heat at the back of the engine.
running the engine or taxi tests, so turn on the ignition and hit the engine Do make sure there is room behind your engine and
I don’t know if it will fire up the next again. It should fire up right away. the mount/firewall for clearance; if not, then your
time I go to the field. I expect it will Thanks for the kind words regarding recommendation of mounting the pump on the
be a week or two before my next the column. It is always nice to know firewall would be a very good idea.—Gregg Wagner
attempt. What are your thoughts when the effort is being appreciated
are about the extreme difficulty I and helps make up for some of the
experienced in getting this engine less than friendly letters I receive from That does it for another month, guys. We will be back
running? I have left the needle valve time to time when I unintentionally in the February issue, which will be the start of our
in the exact location it was in, which step on someone’s toes. 48th year of writing the Engine Clinic column. 
AMA STANDS UP FOR YOUR RIGHT TO FLY

Our work with Congress helped establish the Special Rule for Model Aircraft, exempting
recreational flying from regulation. And the FAA considers our National Model Aircraft
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helps support AMA’s effort to keep model flying free of regulation.
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December 2016 39
Flight Test
TOWER HOBBIES
Ultimate Bipe
GP/EP ARF
The ultimate in extreme aerobatics
BY KLAUS RONGE PHOTOS BY PETER HALL
The full-scale Ultimate biplane was intended as a

modernization of the Pitts aerobatic classic and has become
a favorite of pilots—both RC and full-scale. Its distinctive
looks and aerobatic performance result in showstopping
performances, yet it has easy slow-flight handling. The Tower
Hobbies Ultimate has all these characteristics in an easy-
to-assemble ARF that can be powered with a glow engine or
brushless electric motor.
The Ultimate airframe is constructed out of laser-cut
balsa and plywood covered in a vibrant tricolored scheme
with high-quality heat-shrink film. With the exception
of the usual powerplant and radio system components,
everything is included to complete the assembly. Included in the box
is a set of prebuilt interplane struts, formed-aluminum cabane struts,
painted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants, wheels, aluminum landing gear,
glow-engine mount and fuel tank, canopy/hatch, plastic spinner, decals,
pushrods, tailwheel, and hardware package.
The Tower Hobbies Ultimate is compact enough to fit in most vehicles
fully assembled. If the model requires disassembly for transportation or
storage, however, the unique wing attachment makes it easy and quick.
This is accomplished by using thumb nuts to secure the interplane struts
to the wings. The large removable canopy/hatch provides access to the
large fuselage interior for quick battery changes at the field for electric-
powered models.
The model will suit the expert aerobatic pilot looking for an exciting and
great-looking bipe. Because it is very stable and has no vices, pilots who
have mastered low-wing sport planes will also enjoy the model.
MODEL: Ultimate Bipe GP/EP ARF RADIO: Futaba 10JA w/ R2006GS receiver (futaba
MANUFACTURER: Tower Hobbies rc.com), seven Tactic TSX25 Mini Digital High-Speed
(towerhobbies.com) 2BB servos (tacticrc.com), Hobbico HydriMax NiMH 6V
TYPE: High-performance aerobatic 1300mAh receiver battery (hobbico.com)
biplane ENGINE: O.S. 46AXII with Bisson Pitts Muffler
WINGSPAN: 45.5 in. (osengines.com)
WING AREA: 840 sq. in. FUEL: PowerMaster 15% (powermasterfuels.com)
LENGTH: 50 in. PROPELLER: APC 12.5x6 (apcprop.com)
WEIGHT: 6 lb. 2 oz.
WING LOADING: 16.8 oz./sq. ft.
POWER REQ’D: .46–.55 two-stroke, .72–.81 HIGHLIGHTS
four-stroke, or RimFire .55 42-60-480 Can be powered by nitro or electric
RADIO REQ’D: 4+-channel w/ four to Highly visible and attractive color scheme
seven mini or standard servos Convenient size
PRICE: $240.00 Great flying characteristics
DECEMBER 2016 41
FLIGHT TEST TOWER HOBBIES ULTIMATE BIPE GP/EP ARF
UNIQUE FEATURES
The model arrived with only a few minor
wrinkles in the covering, which were easily
removed with a covering iron set on medium.
One piece of yellow, red, and blue were helpfully
included in the kit for any minor repairs that
might arise. Because I chose to use the
O.S. 46AXII engine, I fuel-proofed the aft side
of the firewall (the forward side of the firewall is
already fuel-proofed) and forward fuselage area
with Z-Poxy finishing resin (zapglue.com).
The O.S. 46AXII fits perfectly under the cowl and Here, you see the radio compartment. With the lower
In addition to choosing a powerplant, the
provides good performance. wing removed, you have unrestricted access to the
modeler has a choice of using two or four servos and electronics.
servos for the ailerons. I chose to use four—one
for each aileron, for added precision. The two-
aileron servo setup has the servos mounted
in the lower wing with pushrods connecting
the upper and lower ailerons. There are a
variety of ways to connect the aileron servos
for the four-servo setup to the receiver, and
I chose the simplest. I used a Y-harness to
connect the servos in the upper wing and
used another Y-harness for the lower wing.
These Y-harnesses are connected to another
Y-harness plugged into the receiver. If you
have a receiver with enough channels, each
aileron servo can be plugged into a separate The top hatch/cockpit assembly also provides great The cabane struts are rugged and easy to assemble.
access to the inside of the fuselage.
channel for the ultimate in precision. The
ailerons are factory hinged with CA hinges, but I
added a few drops of CA to each hinge for good
measure. The elevator and rudder are each
controlled by one servo housed in the fuselage
and actuated by pushrods. I epoxied the
horizontal and vertical fin in place after carefully
checking the alignment. These control surfaces
arrive ready to accept the included CA hinges.
The O.S. 46AX engine is completely hidden
within the cowl with only the Bisson Pitts
exhaust pipes exposed. A handy slide-out tray
is provided in which to install the fuel tank. For
those choosing electric power, this tray is used
for the flight batteries and is secured to the
fuselage with a nylon thumbscrew. Instructions
are provided for installing the two-stroke
The tailwheel is simple and provides great ground Here, you see the bottom aileron servo installation.
handling. All of the aileron servos are installed with these
flush-fitting wing hatches.
FLIGHT TEST TOWER HOBBIES ULTIMATE BIPE GP/EP ARF
O.S. as well as a four-stroke engine and

electric motor. The optional ElectriFly Medium
Brushless Motor Mount (electrifly.com) is
recommended for the electric motor.
Alignment of the upper and lower wings is
automatic by way of the interplane and cabane
struts. Because I am using a glow engine, I
substituted locknuts for the standard 3mm
nuts on the cabane struts. The model balanced
exactly in the middle of the center of gravity
(CG) range with the radio equipment located
in the suggested locations. As a final touch, I
added a Great Planes 1/5-scale pilot figure and
IT HAS A LIGHT FEEL AND EASILY
an instrument panel that I found on the web PERFORMS ALL KNOWN SPORT
and printed out on photo paper. MANEUVERS. ROLLS ARE FAIRLY AXIAL,
ESPECIALLY FOR A BIPLANE.
IN THE AIR
Before flying the Ultimate Bipe, I ran two tanks
of fuel through the O.S. 46AXII to break in the
engine. Fueling the plane is quick using the responsive but not overly sensitive. For those the Ultimate is its outstanding tracking. When
Great Planes Easy Fueler Valve, which I installed with limited high-performance aircraft time, low you bank the plane, it just stays in the bank
on the side of the cowl. With the engine running rates will help tame the Ultimate. When it’s time until another control is given. With the CG in
well and the range check complete, it was for landing, a couple of clicks of power helps the the middle of the range, I found the plane to be
time to see what the bipe could do. Ground plane settle in for a nice touchdown. a bit on the nose-heavy side, which is great for
handling on the grass field was good, and I the first flight.
gave it full throttle and was rewarded with a GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCE Aerobatics: Of course, this is what the Ultimate
picture-perfect takeoff. I initially took off on Stability: The Ultimate Bipe is very stable, and it is all about. With the O.S. 46, the plane has a
the recommended high-rate settings and has a solid feel to it. light feel to it and easily performs all known
left it there, as I found the controls to be very Tracking: One of the first things I noticed about sport maneuvers. Rolls are fairly axial,
especially for a biplane, and loops track well.
Another thing that I noticed right away was the
excellent snap performance—the plane starts
Power Choices and stops on command and has a rapid rotation.
The full-scale Ultimate is available as a kit or assembled, and can be equipped The two-stroke engine and APC 12.5x6 pro-
with a 100hp engine for the sport pilot, 200hp engine for aerobatics, or 300hp for peller pulls the plane well, but it doesn’t have
competition aerobatics. The performance of the plane will vary considerably based unlimited vertical performance; it had plenty,
on the variant chosen. Pilots of the Tower Hobbies Ultimate also have a choice of however, for good-looking stall turns. With this
powerplants, and the performance will be reflected in that choice. engine, 3D flight is somewhat limited. I was able
to hover it, but it took nearly full power with
little reserve for pull-out.
Two-Stroke Glow Engine Glide and stall performance: The Ultimate Bipe
For pilots seeking excellent performance in glides better than most biplanes due to its clean
traditional aerobatics, the two-stroke O.S. airframe. It is well behaved in slow flight, and
46AXII or O.S. 55AX is an ideal choice. These stalls present no surprises.
engines result in a very light wing loading, and
the plane is a delight to fly. In addition to sport PILOT DEBRIEFING
aerobatics, barnstorming maneuvers are a The Ultimate is a great-flying plane in a
blast with these engines. This is the most convenient size. One of the benefits of nitro
economical choice, as well. power is that a jug of fuel and a charged
receiver battery will let you fly all day long—and
Four-Stroke Glow Engine you’ll want to with this plane.
The next step in power is a four-stroke engine,
such as the O.S. 72-a. The greater torque and
BOTTOM LINE
ability to turn larger props make this engine
It seems that nearly all pilots are drawn to
suited for any type of aerobatics—3D and
biplanes; however, they are often intimidated
traditional. The plane will be a little heavier, but
by their assembly and field setup hassles.
the added power will more than compensate
for this. The Tower Hobbies Ultimate Bipe takes care
of these issues—it assembles in about 10
Brushless Motor hours and can be left assembled, eliminating
The RimFire .55, with a 6-cell battery, provides field setup. The instructions are excellent and
the ultimate performance (pun intended). In provide many assembly hints to guide the
addition to the high power output of the electric modeler with minimal experience. Despite the
motor, the near-instantaneous acceleration Ultimate’s unlimited aerobatic capabilities, it
makes it the powerplant of choice for the can easily be flown by intermediate pilots with
most aggressive and 3D aerobatics. some low wing experience. J
GALLERY
Phil Clark’s Monster-Scale Skyraider

The inside scoop on this 30 percent warbird
BY GERRY YARRISH PHOTOS BY PHIL CLARK
When it comes to World War II and similar warbirds, 100-inch spans are about the norm for
your basic giant-scale planes seen at the flying field. When you go even bigger, you enter the
realm of the truly large RC aircraft. One such project, built by Phil Clark several years ago, is this
monstrous 30 percent scale Douglas Skyraider. Countless modelers and builders have viewed
Phil’s impressive projects and learned much about designing, building, and ultimately flying
truly big RC planes. We caught up with Phil to learn the backstory on his 180-inch-span Douglas
Skyraider. Here’s what he had to say.
All decked out and ready for

another sortie, Phil Clark’s
monster-scale Skyraider casts a
mighty big shadow waiting for its
next flight.
Model Airplane News: When you built your big Skyraider, it became sport airplane wing. I split it into two halves and used an aluminum
famous for its size and excellent flight performance. Tell us about it. joiner tube.
Phil Clark: Overall, it has an excellent layout, huge wing and tail areas,
wide landing-gear track, and large control surfaces; it is relatively MAN: What about the wing?
straightforward to build (apart from the size), as it is mainly straight PC: The wing’s outer panel breaks are at the flap/aileron joint. The
lines. I used the 100-inch Nick Ziroli plans as a basis for the model. wing spars are made of cyparis (a member of the cypress family
As I planned on using the Moki 400cc four-stroke, 5-cylinder radial of woods), which is a superb timber and has similar mechanical
engine, I enlarged Nick’s plans so the cowl diameter would suit properties to spruce but the weight of hard balsa. Unlike spruce,
the radial engine. This resulted in a scale aircraft size of exactly however, it can be glued with regular modeling adhesives. I used it for
30 percent. Apart from wood sizes and some structural modifications the spars, stringers, and longerons.
around the firewall, gear mounts, wing and fuselage break point, etc., I used 2mm (0.079 in.) light ply to sheet the three-piece wing. It’s
I figured it could pretty much be built as per plan, even considering stupidly strong but not a great deal heavier than decent 1/8-inch
the 80 percent enlargement. Even at this new scale, the spacing
between ribs and formers, the number of stringers, etc., were all
perfectly acceptable.
The fuselage is basically a flat-bottomed, flat-sided box,
with a turtle deck; the wings and stabilizer are all straight
tapers; and the only complex curve on the entire model is the
long fin strake. Because it’s so big, the curvatures involved
are not at all bad. The stabilizer is just a 72-inch-span
SPECIFICATIONS
Model: Douglas Skyraider
Scale: 30 percent
Wingspan: 180 in.
Wing area: 6,840 sq. in. (47.5 sq. ft.)
Estimated overall weight: 183 lb.
Wing loading: 61.64 oz./sq. ft.
Power: 400cc Moki 5-cylinder
radial engine
DECEMBER 2016 47
Gallery PHIL CLARK’S MONSTER-SCALE SKYRAIDER
There are big airplanes, and then there are really big airplanes! This
amazing monster is powered by a 400cc 5-cylinder radial engine!
When you build a giant-scale cockpit, you need to add lots of detail. Phil Clark Just a couple of the many instruments on the pilot’s dashboard.
added an immense amount of interior and exterior detailing. The gunsight
looks real!
The author shows off his
30 percent scale project,
which makes the family car
look like a compact. Notice
the fuselage is built in halves.
balsa. For the center section, the root rib and the ribs around the cut them, then have to adjust them, I cut all the slots for the stringer
retract mounts are all 1/4-inch birch. The center tip ribs are 1/8-inch and longerons when needed and I’m ready to install them. Using a
birch, cut out in a more scale way to make them look pretty when horizontal crutch, I assembled the lower part of the fuselage and
the tip panels are removed. All remaining ribs are from 1/4-inch light formers, then sheeted the sides with 2mm light ply. The tops of the
ply to maintain a good, wide gluing area between the ribs and the formers were then added. The stringers were positioned 4 inches
wing skins. The outer panel ribs are a combination of 1/8- and apart to suit the width of the 1/8-inch balsa sheeting, meaning
1/4-inch birch and light ply. To save weight, I tapered the spars for minimal trimming of sheets, etc. The horizontal crutch was then
the outer panels. removed, as once sheeted, the structure was totally rigid; so the
crutch served no specific purpose other than adding unnecessary
MAN: Tell us about your wing joiners. weight in the tail.
PC: Personally, I hate tube joiners for wings. At the flap/aileron The firewall is 3/4-inch ply screwed to the 1/4-inch ply side
junction, the wing is about 4 inches deep. In normal flight, the top frames of the motor attachment box. This structure runs from the
spar is under compression and the bottom spar is under tension. firewall back through the formers at the front of the wing saddle
Mechanically, the best place to tie the inner and outer wing panels section and ends at the fuselage break. The front three formers are
together is right out on the top and bottom skins, as far apart as then slid into place and secured to the side longerons.
possible. My point is that a tube joiner is far less mechanically and
structurally effective than the overlapping, interlocking steel strap MAN: Tell us about your hardware and radio gear.
method I use on this model. This method places the joiners at the PC: Darrell Tenny at Sierra Giant Scale CNC-machined my hinges
best possible position for strength and load-spreading ability in for my elevators and ailerons from aluminum with steel pivot bolts.
the wing, as well as it being much lighter and easier to build than a They are very light, as the barbed ends are drilled out to save weight.
tube joiner. They are also anodized for corrosion prevention. I use a single 65kg
Tonegawa PS-050 servo on the rudder, with only one control horn
MAN: Your fuselage is built in two halves? required. I sandwiched the M4 rod ends’ linkage between two
PC: Yes, similar to the wing joiners, the fuselage joining method 1/16-inch carbon-fiber horns for increased rigidity. The rod end is
uses bolts passing through each set of steel strap joiners, with secured with an M4 x 16 high-tensile cap-head screw, washer, and
M5 nuts silver-soldered to the inner plates of each set. The forward nyloc nut. Sierra Servo Pro mounts are used for the aileron servos,
fuselage section is 91 inches long, and the rear fuselage section is and I am using two JR 8511 digital servos for each aileron. Each aileron
45 inches long. This required major longerons to be added to attach is 44.25 inches long and 6.25 inches at the root! The flaps are also
and support the steel joining straps. I have four sets of them—one massive, being 36 inches long and 9 inches wide at the root, so I am
top, one bottom, and one on each side—so there is no way there can using two Tonegawa Seiko 65kg servos (that’s more than 900 oz.-in.
be any up/down or side-to-side movement. As long as the plates are of torque). Four JR 8511 digital servos are also used for the elevators
securely attached to a main fuselage longeron (which they are), this (two each half, installed within the horizontal stabilizer).
method is immensely strong and very reliable. My big retractable landing gear were special-order one-offs from
The former are a mixture of 1/4- and 1/8-inch birch plywood and Sierra Giant Scale, but for a custom job of this size, I was pleasantly
1/4-inch light ply. Working from enlarged plans, you can never be surprised at the price, especially considering it included the mains
too sure how accurate the drawn-on positions are. So rather than and tail-gear assemblies plus a set of 10-inch wheels. I am using two
DECEMBER 2016 49
Weatronic receiver systems as well as two 7.2-volt

This is what a monster-
5000mAh NiMH battery packs for each system (four
scale, 180-inch wing looks total). Each system will run halve of the model.
like! The two outer panels
are removable. MAN: How did you deal with the canopy and the cowl?
PC: That massive canopy was one area of the project
that worried me. Originally, I was going to use a
1/3-scale Mustang canopy from a chap in Canada by
the name of Mike Emilio. I made a light-ply template
of the Skyraider’s canopy and was quite surprised it
fitted exactly inside the big P-51 canopy, with plenty
of material to spare. Ultimately, however, I decided to
make a plug and have a canopy formed commercially
so that it would better fit the fuselage.
The cowl was simply built up using formers and
a plywood skin. The forward rounded section was
made from high-density pink insulation foam. I used a
custom sanding block to get the shape right, then the
whole thing was covered with fiberglass and resin.
The Moki 400cc radial engine is a truly big powerplant.
MAN: What about the finish and paint?

PC: Nothing unusual here, all the fiberglass finishing
was done using my standard process of using
Fibertech 50g cloth, Ripmax SP113 resin, and Fibertech
resin thinners. The model has the full treatment of
panel lines made with primer and chart tape, and rivets
and screw detail done with a small brass tube in a
soldering iron. The model is finished in an automotive
acrylic basecoat, same as the silver I’ve applied as
an undercoat for everything. All the markings were
painted with custom paint masks.
MAN: So how does the big Skyraider fly?

PC: After getting all the paperwork taken care of
and getting the model approved for its first flight, we
ran the engine and checked everything over several
times and topped off the battery packs. Ali Machinchy
All structures and systems
were checked and rechecked
several times before the
aircraft made its first flight.
Aircraft Inspection
I
n the United Kingdom, any model that has an estimated are several ways of doing this, and this is left up to the discretion
all-up weight more than 20kg (approximately 44 pounds) of the builder and the inspector. Once it’s finished and ready for
must be registered with the Large Model Association’s ground trials, builders have to apply for an “Exemption to Test”
Over 20kg Scheme. This is a scheme put in place almost certificate. This legally allows them to test-fly the model (after
10 years ago to help successful ground trials,
promote (and make safer) range checks, engine runs,
the building and flying of taxi trials, etc.). This is all
large models in that part of done in private, under the
the world. Once registered, watchful eye of the inspector.
each builder is appointed an The model must complete a
approved airframe inspector. series of size flights, totaling
There is a group of about at least one hour of air time
15 to 20 inspectors country- (or two hours if it’s a model
wide (thank goodness England that’s more than 80kg),
is small!). before it can be signed
The model’s plans are off and an “Exemption to
first looked at for structural Display” certificate is issued.
integrity, materials selections, During the flight test
etc.; if it’s a commercial, phase, a series of flight
well-proven plan or kit, this maneuvers have to be
is easy, but if it’s a one-off, carried out, such as high-G
scratch-built model, it’s a bit maneuvering, stall tests,
more time-consuming. The crosswind flight, high- and
build is then inspected maybe slow-speed flight, etc. All of
four or five times during its this tests the integrity of
construction, again checking that you’ve done what you said you the airframe and the capability of the pilot to display the model in
were going to do and that the standard of workmanship is good. If a safe way. After that, it’s show time (this thing isn’t exactly your
it isn’t or if problems are seen, the inspector has the authority to usual club model!). The exemption has to be reapplied for on an
ask for the work to be redone or modified. annual basis, and if the model is ever involved in an accident where
Once the basic build is complete, hardware installations are major repairs are required, it has to carry out the test-flight phase
looked at. There are certain rules and regulations builders have again. All inspectors are active large modelers themselves, so they
to comply with regarding the RC installation. There must be two want to see each project succeed; it isn’t a bureaucratic scheme
receivers and a secondary backup for the battery packs. There at all.—Phil Clark
DECEMBER 2016 51
In flight, the 30 percent scale Skyraider is a sight to

behold. It has good performance, and the sound of the
400cc radial engine has to be heard to be appreciated.
Test pilot and future owner

of the monster Skyraider, Ali
Machinchy, shows off just
how immense the Douglas
attack aircraft really is.
agreed to be my test pilot. After some taxi

tests, she lifted cleanly away into a gentle
climbing turn to the left, after what must
have been a couple of hundred meters or so.
The gear was retracted immediately after
takeoff. With the landing gear all tucking
away cleanly, the first gentle circuit was
smooth and steady, speed slowly building all
the while.
A landing was called after about six
minutes as we felt the engine was starting
to sound a bit tight, its note had definitely
changed, and the speed slowed slightly.
Flaps were fed in on the downwind and the
gear deployed. There were no problems
with the gear extension, even while having
to move against forward airflow. A curved
approach was flown, followed by a smooth
tail-high wheel landing. On taxi back, the engine definitely had a may have something to do with that. Control response was very
“clatter” to it, so we shut it down. The clatter was tracked down good, bordering on sensitive, but that’s how he flies, so we’re happy
immediately to the two lower cowl bolts loosening slightly and the to leave the center of gravity where it is. The barrel roll was flown with
vibration of the bottom edge of the cowl. The next time out, Ali no more than half stick at any point, so with plenty of stick stirring,
immediately looked comfortable making several banked figure-8 we were sure it will be a pretty lively monster, considering her size
circuits, followed by a big barrel roll on, I think, the fourth circuit. A few and weight. 
low-ish passes followed, with steep pull-outs and wingovers at the
downwind end. Editor’s note: This is really only the very beginning of the life of Phil’s
The comments from Ali were, “No trim change on any control truly gigantic RC warbird. Since the initial test flights and adjustments,
surface during the entire flight, even when flaps (of any amount) Phil ultimately sold the big Skyraider to Ali, who has performed with it
were deployed for landing.” He did say he was surprised how at many airshows, having several other owners since then. For more
ineffective they were at slowing the model, but the total lack of wind photos and information, check out the build forum at rcscalebulder.com.
Flight Test
E-FLITE/HORIZON HOBBY
UMX P-51D
A mini Mustang for the masses
BY GERRY YARRISH PHOTOS BY PETER HALL
Everyone who even has the slightest interest

in aviation history knows the P-51 Mustang.
Recognized by many as the quintessential Allied
fighter aircraft to come out of the Second World
War, the Mustang went on to serve in the Korean
War as the F-51 and continued to fly for decades
in the hands of civilian pilots, who are keeping
breed alive in airshows.
The new UMX P-51D Mustang from E-flite is
an attractive molded-foam fighter with excellent
performance. Part of the Bind-N-Fly Basic series,
this mini Mustang comes ready to fly; you just
supply your own DSM2/DSMX–compatible full-
range transmitter, 2S 280mAh 3C LiPo flight
battery, and a 2S LiPo battery charger. Let’s take
a closer look.
MODEL: P-51D Mustang RADIO: Spektrum DX9 transmitter (horizonhobby.com),
TYPE: WW II warbird (Bind-N-Fly) four 2.3g linear long-throw servos (installed)
MANUFACTURER: E-flite (e-fliterc.com) MOTOR: 3536-850Kv brushless (installed)
DISTRIBUTOR: Horizon Hobby (horizonhobby.com) BATTERY: E-flite 2S 280mAh 7.4V LiPo (e-fliterc.com)
WINGSPAN: 19.4 in. PROPELLER: Scale 4-blade (included)
WING AREA: 68.6 sq. in.
WEIGHT: 3.1 oz.
WING LOADING: 6.51 oz./sq. ft. HIGHLIGHTS
MOTOR INCL’D: 3536-850Kv brushless Excellent scale looks
RADIO REQ’D: 6-channel DSMX- or DSM2-compatible Stable flight performance with AS3X
PRICE: $129.99 Removable landing gear
DECEMBER 2016 55
FLIGHT TEST E-FLITE/HORIZON HOBBY UMX P-51D
Out of the box, the UMX

Mustang is ready to go, no
assembly required.
UNIQUE FEATURES
For this review, I chose my Spektrum DX9
transmitter, which quickly connected to the
Mustang by pressing the Bind button and
turning on the transmitter. You first power
up the Mustang by plugging in the battery
pack, and in a matter of seconds, the two are
happily talking to each other. All the onboard
electronics are factory installed as is the
brushless motor. The speed controller is built
into the installed 6-channel Ultra micro AS3X
receiver. All the 2.3g linear long-throw offset
servos are also factory installed. The installed
180BL 3000Kv brushless outrunner motor
Above: There is a recess under the nose, and the
comes with the scale 4-blade propeller and
7.4V flight battery fits right into place and is secured
foam spinner already attached. The fixed with mini Velcro tape. Right: The landing gear comes
landing gear and steerable tailwheel are with attractive gear doors and are easy to remove
removable if you want to fly from a grass for flying at grass fields. Left: All the control linkages
are in place, so there’s nothing to connect. Notice the
runway and simply belly in your
steerable tailwheel.
landings. Decked out in scale
markings of “Gentle
Annie,” the model
The aileron servos are located in the wing panels

and are protected with formed covers to keep the
mechanics out of the grass.
FLIGHT TEST E-FLITE/HORIZON HOBBY UMX P-51D
has molded scale parts including gear doors,

rugged foam tires, exhaust stacks, a clear
bubble canopy, and a foam pilot bust; there are
no flaps.
The flight battery fits into a recess molded
under the front part of the wing. To charge the
battery, you’ll need to get a Celectra 2S 7.4V DC
LiPo balancing charger. The battery pack plugs
into the charger, but you will need to supply a
DC power cord or an AC 1.5A power supply that
plugs into the wall. The first time that I plugged
the battery pack into the charger it took less
than 25 minutes to fully charge.
After charging the flight battery, you are
ready to fly. All the control linkages for the THE MUSTANG HAS LIVELY CONTROL RESPONSE.
elevator, rudder, and ailerons are factory IT CAN EASILY PERFORM LOOPS AND ROLLS, AND
installed, and there are small loops in the IT HAS EXCELLENT CLIMB PERFORMANCE.
linkages for any minor changes you might need
to do to their lengths.
IN THE AIR
You can fly the UMX Mustang from any smooth
surface, and with its steerable tailwheel, it has
excellent ground handling. For our test flight, I
simply hand-launched the mini fighter into the
air. It has plenty of power and can handle itself
well in the event of a slight breeze.
GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCE

Stability: With its built-in AS3X flight-
stabilization system, the Mustang is very stable
with excellent response. It all but eliminates the
bumps from wind gusts.
PHOTO BY BUDD DAVISSON
Tracking: The little Mustang tracks very well; in

calm weather, it goes where you point it.
Aerobatics: For its size, the Mustang has
lively control response. It can easily perform
loops and rolls, and it has excellent climb
performance. It can do wingovers and any
other turnaround maneuver you like. It can do it
Soloing a Mustang all with a fully charged battery.
Glide and stall performance: This UMX airplane
I was again at the Flying Tiger Airport & Flight Museum in Paris, Texas, for my second
session of “Junior” Burchinal’s how-to-be-a-fighter-pilot course. I would get another has a mild stall because of its extremely
couple of hops in the SNJ and then get ready to have a go at the P-51 Mustang. Just pilot-friendly wing loading. Recovery is quick
thinking about tangling with a 1,450hp, full-fledged fighter, after the trouble I’d had by pointing the nose down, adding power, and
with a 600hp trainer, made my knees turn to Silly Putty. I’ve dreamed my entire life neutralizing the controls. Power-off glides also
about flying a Mustang, and now that I was close, I wasn’t sure whether it was a dream are stable, but you have to watch that you don’t
or a nightmare. get blown downwind.
Since there’s only one set of controls in the Mustang, you only get one go at it, and
it had better be good. All that Junior can do is explain the procedures thoroughly and PILOT DEBRIEFING
have you ride around in the back for a while getting a feel of it and then let you go. He Flying outside from a large parking lot, I enjoy
put me in the back, and we went out to see how the aircraft does certain things. We doing close-in circuits close to sunset with no
headed for Cox Field, Burchinal’s practice airport, where he shot a couple of landings wind. Touch-and-gos are a blast, as are spot
with me perched on his shoulder, trying to learn as much as I could secondhand. He landings. I only wish that there were a few
even had me reach around him and make turns with ailerons, only so that control Messerschmitts in the series to chase.
effectiveness wouldn’t come as a surprise when I made my first flight. He yelled to me
all the way through his approaches, trying to tell me what was happening. He flew the BOTTOM LINE
approaches exactly as we had in the SNJ, except that the numbers were much faster. Beautifully molded, the UMX Mustang has
Then it happened. He pulled over to the side, climbed out, and said go fly it—just as
accurate scale lines and markings. It looks
if he were soloing a kid in a Cherokee. He said something about me doing fine, but I
like it “means business” while sitting on your
couldn’t be sure because my heartbeat drowned him and the Merlin out completely.
worktable or flying high in the sky looking for
Actually, I was quite calm—all things considered. We had talked, and trained, and flown,
a dogfight. If you want a Mustang in your RC
aiming everything at this moment, and I felt prepared.—Budd Davisson
To read the rest of the story, go to ModelAirplaneNews.com/MustangSolo. hangar, this is a great one to saddle up. J
708 Battlefield Blvd South #107
HOW TO
Make Fiberglass Parts

PLUGS, MOLDS, AND LAYUPS EXPLAINED
BY LENNY STANKO PHOTOS BY RICH URAVITCH
There are several fiberglass parts on

this scale OV-10 Bronco, including the
nose cap, rear cap, and engine cowls.
F
iberglass cloth, resin, and molds are commonly used to make
multiple copies of model-airplane parts. Ideal for duplicating
parts with a complex shape, molded fiberglass parts are also
much lighter and stronger, and can be produced more quickly
than parts made out of solid-wood blocks. For this article,
we are going to make a simple fiberglass nose cone for a scale 109-inch-
span OV-10 Bronco, which belongs to my good friend Rich Uravitch. This
technique can be used to make all sorts of model parts including engine
cowls, wingtips, and other similar parts where strength and light weight
are important.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED

The materials you’ll need are readily available online and from local
automotive- and marine-supply outlets. There are lots of brands to choose
from. First, you’ll need some plain-weave fiberglass cloth. I use 2- and
7-ounce-weight cloth from Thayercraft Industries (thayercraft.com).
Everyone is familiar with epoxy resin, and it is a good choice for hobby use
as it is odor-free. I use resin with a mix ratio 2:1 and get it from Fiberglass
Florida (fiberglassflorida.com). You will also need a PVA (polyvinyl alcohol)
release agent, two-part surface-coat epoxy, Rexco Partall #2 molding wax,
resin thickener, chopped fiberglass fiber, rubber gloves, and measuring Here are the basic materials needed to make a mold and finished part. Additional
cups. All these supplies are available from Fiberglass Florida. tools, like scissors, mixing sticks, and latex gloves, are also required.
1 2
Here is the plug removed from the fuselage after it has been shaped, sanded, and Here, body filler has been applied to fill in and finalize its shape.
sealed with epoxy resin.
3 4
After sanding the plug smooth, it is then primed with filler primer. After it has Here is the plug with its final coat of spray paint. The paint should dry for at least
dried, it can be sanded and reprimed as many times as needed to produce a 24 hours or longer.
blemish-free surface.
MAKING THE PLUG

Before you can produce fiberglass parts, you have to make a plug. This Sand and fill your plug as needed until you have a smooth, blemish-
wood-and-foam structure is usually made on the model so that the free surface. A good coat of filler-primer along with some spot putty
finished part will fit properly. For the nose cone, the plug was made help eliminate any imperfections. Sand the surface smooth again with
by tack-gluing wood plywood cross-sections, both vertically and fine sandpaper, and shoot on a light final coat of primer. Once you are
horizontally, to the front of the fuselage. The plug’s shape was then filled satisfied, give your plug a final coat of any good-quality spray paint. Apply
out by using foam blocks cut and sanded to shape. Once the contours several light coats to avoid any runs, then make sure to let the paint dry
were correct, I sealed the plug with epoxy resin. I then applied auto-body completely for at least 24 hours (longer is better). This will reduce the
filler to fill in any defects and finalize the shape of the part to be molded. potential of the plug sticking to the mold.
DECEMBER 2016 61
HOW TO MAKE FIBERGLASS PARTS
5 6
After attaching the finished plug to a plastic base, apply several coats of wax and Mix up the two-part surface-coat resin, and spread evenly over the plug and base.
PVA and let dry. The actual mold fabrication starts at this point. Allow it to cure until it is tacky.
THE MOLD
Start by attaching the finished plug to a large plastic base. I find that it’s
easier to apply wax and PVA to the plastic base before attaching the
plug. A couple of screws will do a good job of holding everything together.
Mix up some two-part surface-coat epoxy, and spread it evenly around
the plug and onto the base. Allow it to cure until its surface becomes
tacky but not soft. This is followed by a layer of epoxy resin mixed with
Cab-O-Sil thickener and chopped fiberglass fibers. This application builds
up the mold surface and fills in any voids. I use a brush with cut-down
bristles to make spreading the mixture easier. Follow this by pouring
more of the mixture onto the mold, and spread it around evenly to build
up the mold and add strength. After the mixture begins to set up, apply
the first layer of precut fiberglass cloth over the plug. Overlap the cloth a
little, and force out any air that might get trapped. Keep the cloth evenly
distributed around the plug. Add additional layers of cloth, and trim them
as needed to fit again, distributing the layers of cloth evenly over the
plug. As you build up the surface of the mold, continue to trim the cloth 7
as needed, and use the remnant pieces to build up the flange area on the
plastic base. Five or six layers are sufficient for this simple mold. Larger, Apply a mixture of epoxy resin with Cab-O-Sil thickener and chopped fiberglass
more complex molds will require more layers. fiber. This will build up the mold surface and fill in any voids.
8 9
After you have a thin layer brushed onto the plug, you can pour the mixture evenly As the mixture just starts to set up, apply the first layer of precut fiberglass cloth
over the mold to help build up the mold more quickly. Make sure that there are no over the plug.
voids or air pockets.
10
12
Add additional layers of cloth, and trim them as needed to distribute them evenly.
Remove any air pockets, and apply more resin to fill any dry spots. While building
up the surface of the mold, trim the cloth as needed so that it will lay flat over the
last layer, and use the remnant pieces to build up the flange area.
Here, you see the mold removed from the plug. Note that the interior is clean and
smooth. Now, apply more wax and PVA to the inside of the mold.
11
13
Here the final layer of cloth is being applied. Work the cloth over the base to form
the flat flange, making sure that there are no trapped air bubbles or dry areas.
LAYING UP THE PART Start the part layup with a layer of 2-ounce cloth, wetting it with resin to smooth it
against the inside of the mold.
After the mold has cured completely (overnight), remove the plug and
inspect the inner surface of the mold. The mold should easily pop out.
Apply the Partall molding wax, and put on several coats of PVA. Once
these dry, apply the first layer of 2-ounce cloth, and work in the resin to
wet the cloth and lay it up against the surface of the mold. Overlap the
pieces of cloth, and make sure that it lays down smoothly without any
wrinkles or air pockets.
Now, apply two layers of 7-ounce cloth in the same fashion. Make
sure that the cloth is even all around. Depending on the size of your
part, additional layers of the heavier cloth might be required, but for this
nose cone, two layers are sufficient. When the epoxy is almost fully
cured, use a sharp hobby knife and trim away the excess cloth even with
the mold edge.
After the resin has fully cured, the molded part is ready to be removed.
Use a razor blade or a Popsicle stick to break the edge of the part from
the mold. I sometimes use compressed air applied with an air chuck to
help release the part from the mold. Once the part is out of the mold,
remove the PVA and wax by washing the part with soap and water.
Making molded fiberglass parts is easier than it might first appear.
14
Once you know the basics, you will find that this technique is a great way
The next two layers of 7-ounce cloth are applied. Make sure that it is applied evenly
to make all sorts of lightweight, strong parts for your model. Save your all around. When the cloth and resin are nearly cured, trim the excess cloth even
plugs and molds and you will be able to make new parts if necessary. with the mold’s edge.
DECEMBER 2016 63
HOW TO MAKE FIBERGLASS PARTS
15 Pro Molding Tips Make sure that the

paint on your plug is
Before beginning, make completely
sure that your mold-making dry before making
materials are compatible. the mold.
Getting them all from the
To speed up your
same source is a good idea.
progress, have
Do all your mold making and all the materials
parts layup in a clean, dust- ready to go and
free work area. precut your cloth.
Your molded parts will only Keep the area clean,
be as good as your plug. Make wipe up spills right
your plug as perfect as you away, and change your
can. latex gloves often.
After the resin has cured, the part is ready to be removed. Use a thin razor blade to
break the edge from the mold.
This shows one of Rich

Uravitch’s Broncos with
16
a fiberglass nose cone
installed. Notice that
it has a landing light
installed. Adding a light is
easy using molded parts.
Compressed air is sometimes required to release the part from the mold. Here, the
new molded nose cone is out of the mold. Remove the wax and PVA by washing the
part with soap and water.
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Flight Test
SPECIFICATIONS E-flite/Horizon Hobby
F4U-4
MODEL: F4U-4 Corsair 1.2M BNF Basic
MANUFACTURER: E-flite (e-fliterc.com)
DISTRIBUTOR: Horizon Hobby
(horizonhobby.com)
Corsair 1.2M
TYPE: Scale warbird park flier
WINGSPAN: 48 in.
WING AREA: 431 sq. in.
LENGTH: 38.2 in.
WEIGHT: 53.35 oz.
WING LOADING: 17.8 oz./sq. ft. Who says that you can’t have a
RADIO REQ’D: 6-channel
POWER INCL’D: 15-size 850Kv outrunner
warbird as an everyday flier?
PRICE: $269.99 BY MICHAEL YORK PHOTOS BY JENNY & MICHAEL YORK
GEAR USED Besides maybe that “other” fighter with an equine

RADIO: JR 12X (jramericas.com), Spektrum
AR636A DSMX receiver with AS3X (spektrum name, the Chance Vought F4U Corsair is one of the
rc.com), A330 9g micro servos (installed) most popular World War II fighters of all time. There
MOTOR: E-flite 15-size 850Kv brushless are few people out there who don’t instantly recognize
outrunner, 40-amp brushless speed control the unmistakable profile of the Corsair.
(both installed)
Over the years, many models have been produced,
BATTERY: E-flite 3S 2200mAh 30C LiPo
(e-fliterc.com) but the stigma of warbird handling made some a bit
PROP: 4-blade 10.5x8 (included) tentative about using it as an everyday flier. After all,
a Corsair is hard to land and will bite you if you don’t
stay on top of things constantly, right? Well, E-flite
HIGHLIGHTS has just released a new Corsair that proves those
Durable Z-Foam construction
Electric rotating retracts fears incorrect.
Functioning scale flaps The F4U-4 Corsair 1.2M BNF Basic comes with AS3X
AS3X stabilization system built in, so any worries about those warbird tendencies
are a nonissue. And coming in at a 48-inch span, it’s
very manageable in both transport and field size,
making it a perfect everyday plane.
When it comes to Corsairs, it doesn’t get much better than this

angle. If it weren’t for the telltale control clevises and somewhat
undersize prop, it would be difficult to guess the scale of this plane.
If this doesn’t get your warbird heart pumping, nothing will.
flight test E-flitE/Horizon Hobby f4U-4 Corsair 1.2M
Radio and battery access is fantastic due to

the large magnetic hatch. It requires no tools,
and the clear grab tab at the rear makes any
prying—which could damage the surrounding
paint—unnecessary.
The Spektrum 6-channel AR636A DSMX
receiver is securely mounted to the fuselage
with silicone adhesive. This is important as the
AS3X would not be accurate if the receiver
was allowed to move around independently
from the fuselage. Much of the radio-setup
guesswork is eliminated as the manual covers
program recommendations of several different
The included Y servo extensions combine the split ailerons, flaps, and gear to one channel each. I found it a bit
Spektrum transmitters.
more organized and easier to mount the wings if the connections are taped together as a block. At the front end, a large 4-blade propeller
is secured with a nicely anodized alloy spinner
nut. Another nice touch is the hard plastic
Being a BNF (Bind-N-Fly) Basic kit means intake trim at the bottom of the cowl, which
that everything except a Spektrum-compatible prevents foam from wearing away in the event
transmitter, battery, and appropriate charger of a nose-over.
are included in the box. No Corsair would be complete without
The airframe consists of lightweight and the iconic 90-degree rearward retracting
durable Z-Foam, which provides great surface landing gear. E-flite uses electric actuators to
detail and texture for the U.S. Marine Corps perform the retraction, while the rotation is
training squadron livery. Scale 90-degree done with a pin/post setup that rotates the
rotating retracts and those iconic multipanel gear through 90 degrees as it moves—simple
flaps are fully functioning as well. but effective.
A thorough multilingual instruction manual The last things to add are the two drop tanks
guides you every step of the way, ensuring that to the underside of the wing. These simply slide
intermediate (or above) pilots will enjoy their on and make it easy if you transport the plane
Corsair to its fullest. with the gear up.
UNIQUE FEATURES IN THE AIR

E-flite has designed the Corsair to go together The Corsair came in at almost exactly the
quickly. Opening the box to being fully advertised weight, and after a quick balance
assembled, programmed, and ready to go took check, it was time to get this classic airborne.
less than 20 minutes. AS3X is a huge help when it comes to flying
Before mounting the flying surfaces, I these smaller-scale birds. Even with a little
disconnected the servo clevises and worked crosswind on takeoff, the rudder portion of
the control surfaces back and forth a few times the three-axis artificial stabilization system did
to make sure that they’d move freely. This is wonders to keep the nose pointed down the
not absolutely necessary, but it does seem to runway. It made me look as if I almost knew
break in the living hinges quicker and causes a what I was doing.
little less stress noise from the servos at the The Corsair was quickly up to speed, and
Above: Having a large hatch opening allows easy end of their travel. light back pressure on the elevator gently lifted
access to all the vital gear in the fuselage. The
receiver and servos are factory mounted, and the Servo leads for the ailerons, flaps, and gear the plane off on its maiden flight. The light wing
long battery tray allows ample movement for CG fine- exit at the wing center are fed via Y-extensions loading (especially for a warbird) and ample
tuning. Below: Here, you can see the iconic Corsair through an opening in the fuselage before power had the plane at trim altitude in a hurry.
rotating retractable landing gear. You could add a little mounting the wing. To neaten things up a bit, One click of aileron is all it took to level things out,
paint to the gear struts to make
them a bit more scale, but the
I taped the connections together and and the AS3X gave me utmost confidence in its
blue does help disguise mounted them in the recess of the handling. In no time, I was on the deck performing
the fact that there wing center panel. various speed passes, followed by a steep
are no main gear The wing and tail are climbout to a wingover to do it again the other
doors when
bolted on using countersink way. I love the stance the Corsair has in flight.
in flight.
hex-head bolts rather than Those big segmented flaps not only look
the typical Phillips, so there great but also do an excellent job in slowing
is less chance of damaging the plane down to a very low approach speed.
the bolt head or having a Between that and the stability system, it’s
screwdriver slip and cause “almost” hard to get a bad landing.
damage. They are also the same
length, so there’s no need to GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCE
figure out which goes where. Stability: What else can I say, other than “AS3X
Hex-head bolts do transfer torque is simply amazing!” Once you’ve tried it, you’ll
better, so be careful not to crank wonder how you ever lived without it.
things down too much. Tracking: Again, the stability system does
PROTECT YOUR
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You take enough risks in the air. Get organized and keep
your gear safe during storage and transport.
WING TOTES RADIO TOTE

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FLIGHT TEST E-FLITE/HORIZON HOBBY F4U-4 CORSAIR 1.2M
a great job keeping the plane pointed in the

right direction, without hindering the ability to
maneuver as necessary. THE AS3X GIVES YOU INSTANT CONFIDENCE
Aerobatics: Loops, stall turns, and wingovers TO HANDLE BASIC TAKEOFF AND
all look very smooth. I especially love how this LANDINGS, EVEN UNDER NOT-SO-BASIC
plane looks doing barrel or hesitation rolls.
WIND CONDITIONS.
Glide and stall performance: The Corsair has
a decent glide for a plane with a big prop and
blunt nose. When you drop the gear and flaps,
it really slows down, and stalls are more mush
than drop.
PILOT DEBRIEFING
Whether it’s high-speed low passes and
aerobatics or just running laps around the
pattern with everything hanging out, the E-flite
F4U-4 Corsair 1.2M looks good doing it. The
AS3X gives you instant confidence to handle
basic takeoff and landings, even under not-so-
basic wind conditions. And once airborne, you’ll
be amazed at how big this little bent-wing
fighter looks.
BOTTOM LINE
Great looking with lots of functioning scale
features, the E-flite F4U-4 Corsair is a warbird
that you’ll not only want to show off but also
want to do it on a daily basis, thanks to the
easy-to-fly characteristic made possible by the
AS3X stability system. If you just can’t decide
whether to take a sport flier or a scale warbird
to the field, the E-flite 1.2M Corsair is the plane
that can fulfill both roles. J
CG Checklist
With any aircraft, making sure that the center of
gravity (CG) is correct is extremely important if
you plan to have a good experience on a
maiden flight. Manufacturers have
done a great job over the
years to ensure that the CG is
basically good to go right out of
the box, but this has made people
a little lackadaisical when it comes to performing this
important preflight check.
Planes will have an optimal range
recommended by the manufacturer, but it’s
best to keep it at the conservative front
end, especially on the first few flights.
As you become more confident in the
plane’s flight characteristics, you can
gradually move it back, which will make
the plane more maneuverable but at the
cost of some stability.
It’s usually a straightforward procedure to check the CG, but with planes like the Corsair,
there is an added consideration. The rearward retracting gear means that the CG will move aft in
the up position, and depending on the weight of the wheels and struts, this can be a significant
change. This means that you have to check the CG with the gear in the up position so that the CG
moves forward and to a more stable position when the gear is extended for takeoff and landings.
On electric planes, it’s a simple affair of moving the battery fore/aft as necessary to obtain
the optimum CG; otherwise, simply add weight to the light end or, if possible, remove it from the
heavy end. It’s a good habit to check the CG anytime something changes from the last flight,
such as installing a battery of a different brand or size.
Want to see your ad
in Model Airplane News?
Email us at [email protected]
So You Wanna
Be a Jet Pilot?
Getting Started Has Never Been Easier
BY FRANK TIANO
SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL: Xcalibur
TYPE: Sport jet
MANUFACTURER: Ripmax
DISTRIBUTOR: Global Jet Club (globaljetclub.com)
WINGSPAN: 73 in.
LENGTH: 78 in.
WEIGHT: 18 lb.
ENGINE REQ’D: Turbine w/ 12–20 lb. thrust
ENGINE USED: Ace 60
RADIO REQ’D: 6-channel w/ five midsize and four standard servos
SPEED RANGE: 25–150mph
PRICE: $895 (jet); $695 (gear package) Just a pretty bird! The first flight was uneventful. John and
Sean Curry both flew it and found it to be a ball.
W
hile hanging at a
jet event, I hear
from time to time,
“You know, if they
weren’t so technical
and tricky to fly, I’d buy one of those
jets.” Well, I’m here to break the myth,
kill the sacred cow, burst the bubble,
and otherwise tell you that it just ain’t
so! Becoming a jet pilot today carries a
difficulty factor of maybe 0, whereas in
your mind it might be a 12. A few things
that might keep some away from the
pure enjoyment of being a jet jock include
not knowing where to start, hooking up a
retract gear system, learning the starting
procedure, flying at any speed under
warp 6, and slowing down for landing.
Yet so many make it look so effortless,
right? Well, things have changed! If you
are ready, getting your turbine wings is
almost as easy as making a tuna on
rye sandwich!
That’s my main cat, John

Banner, holding and
watching, while I initiate the
“start” sequence, which
means, I moved the throttle
lever up and down!
DECEMBER 2016 73
so you wanna be a JET PILOT?
What’s Changed my chagrin, less than a bottle of Zap. What’s and a simple gyro can be extremely helpful
Today, there are many entry-level jet models more, all of the components have evolved along while landing in a crosswind. So now that you
to choose from. I’m talking about models that the same route. Retractable gear packages see getting into a jet is truly nothing more than
are easy to fly, are aerobatic yet stable, and are downright simple to install and activate firing up your credit card, let me share with you
feature a wide performance envelope. In most while remaining bulletproof. The turbine of one cool contender to consider.
cases, these designs fly from 20 to 150mph today starts and runs on a variety of fuels, and
and remain docile at any point in between. And no propane is needed for the start sequence. An Ideal First Jet
almost every one available today is a super Servos are digital and can operate from Many of you know that I host the Florida Jets
ARF. Mere hand tools are all that’s needed to batteries approaching 9 volts; receivers can event in Lakeland, Florida, each year. It is a
“assemble” them—no sandpaper and, much to accommodate dual batteries for redundancy; perfect opportunity to keep abreast of what’s
new, what’s in, and what’s out. Any company
worth its weight in corn chips unveils its newest
John Banner is adding more of the Mylar markings
products at this event—and 300 guys and me
to the Xcalibur. The model comes with many
applied at the factory and a huge sheet of are all over that! At the most recent Florida Jets,
additional stars and nomenclature. there were a number of sport jets that not only
looked cool but also were designed in a manner
that is consistent with those that we know
fly “easy,” making each of them an ideal first
jet. Some of the companies allow prospective
buyers to fly their offering on a buddy box,
while others just hand you the transmitter and
tell you to have at it. The twin-boom design,
introduced by Bob Violett Models (BVM) with
the Bobcat many years ago and subsequently
with Boomerang’s own jet design, has become
very popular. The Global Jet Club Xcalibur
that we’re talking about here follows in their
footsteps. It isn’t as high performing as a
Bobcat, and for my taste, it’s far better looking
than the more docile Boomerang. The Xcalibur
is just plain simple, simple, simple. It is the
perfect size for a first jet, and it’s simple to
throw together, simple to operate, simple to
maintain, and simple to fly. It is so simple, in fact,
that I am finding it difficult to find enough words
to talk about it! But then, this ain’t about the
Xcalibur alone—this is about an easy way for
you to become a jet pilot. So let’s give it a shot.
John, again, getting For your first jet, size is important.
ready to start the Something that goes together quickly is nice,
Ace 60 for the but ease of handling trumps that. The Xcalibur
first time. is a medium-size jet aimed at new sport jet
fliers—those who can fly an intermediate-
type, propeller-driven sport airplane. It is an
almost square design, 73 x 78 inches, the
wingspan being the 73-inch dimension. It is
available in a variety of color schemes. I chose
the Thunderbird knock-off scheme because
I like the U.S. Air Force a lot. But a sport color
scheme and a military jet fighter scheme are
also available. The kit...no, scratch that...I just
can’t call this a “kit”! This model is a bolt-
together, screw-together, assemble-this-to-
that kind of thing. Neither Bobby Smith nor I
are gonna make a dime’s worth of profit in glue
sales when you throw this baby together!
What You’ll Need

There’s a cool, color-illustrated, 11-page
instruction manual that clearly shows how and
where to put the components. And speaking
of components, besides a small turbine engine
that develops between 10 and 20 pounds
of thrust, you’ll want to buy the retract gear
package (of course), the recommended
fuel tank system, a BVM UAT (an air-bubble
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so you wanna be a JET PILOT?
prohibitor), a minimum of a 6-channel radio, cool feature: If you should have a flameout
and servos of the recommended values. In while flying, it senses the interruption and will
my case, I chose Futaba servos—perhaps restart itself in the air. Not that you are faced
some of the best servos on the planet right with that scenario on a regular basis, but you
now—and a retract valve from Ultra Precision never know—you may pick up some dirty fuel
in Canada. While the model features excellent or something.) I guess there is one thing that
workmanship, the included hardware falls a I did not care for that I should mention. The
bit short in substance, so I replaced it all with Thunderbird markings are included on a couple
American-manufactured components. In other of large sheets, made of sticky-back Mylar. It
words, I changed almost everything to Du-Bro. is up to the consumer to cut these markings
I am speaking of items like pushrod material, from their sheets and remove as much “clear”
clevises, ball links, hinges, and anything material around the markings as possible. If
resembling a screw, bolt, or nut. There are you just trim them casually, the clear area,
35 different steps in assembling the Xcalibur. over time, will yellow and the markings will look
Twelve of the 35 are devoted to hinging and hokey with a yellowish edge around them. My
servo installation. All are very simple operations, feeling is either put them on at the factory or
but for installing the flap, you’ll need an include markings that are higher quality and
extra-long ball driver. There are three steps “weeded,” which means that the marking is
in installing the retractable landing gear and die-cut right to the edge of the letter or design.
another three or four for installing the turbine. (For more detailed information on the Xcalibur,
The others deal with strapping in battery check out the specifications box.)
packs, installing the fuel system, running servo
extensions, and illustrating how to attach the In the Air
booms and wings. Knowing how to put the Even though I already had a few minutes
booms and wings together is fairly important; flying the Global Jet Club’s Xcalibur at Florida
as good as this jet is, it does not fly well without Jets, I just couldn’t wait to put my own bird
either of those components. in the air. John Banner, Sean Curry (another
Not that it is important, but in case you are member of the FTE team), and I ventured out
curious, it took us about 20 hours of leisure to the flying site to make the maiden flight
time to put the Xcalibur together. I say “us” and get some photos for this article. As you
because John Banner, the shipping manager can see, all went extremely well. Even though
Above: Looking from the nose going aft, you can see for Frank Tiano Enterprises (FTE), did most of I will install a Demon Gyro for crosswind help,
that the innards contain the same kind of “stuff” a the radio installation. It’s nice to have a second the maiden flight was done without one. The
typical sport airplane does. The fuel tank offers set of hands! The Ace 60 turbine took all of Xcalibur behaved perfectly right from the very
about eight minutes of sport flying, saving some for 15 minutes or so to drop and screw into place first advancement of the throttle stick. It was
a couple of go-arounds if necessary. Below: How and another 15 to hook up the connections. easy to keep it on the runway centerline, and
much simpler can you get? The turbine installation—
’nuff said!
(By the way, this new Ace 60 turbine has a a minimum of trimming was required to make
it fly—literally—hands off. Probably the most
impressive thing about the way that it flies is
that it is so smooth. It makes gentle, almost
flowing turns with no jittering. It doesn’t fly
crazy fast but rather at comfortable speeds.
Other than recognizing that there is so little
drag and no propeller to help slow it down,
there’s nothing to get uncomfortable about
when preparing to land. I reduced the throttle
to about 1/3 on the downwind leg and then to
idle just before turning final, and it just slithered
in for a perfect greaser landing. I didn’t need the
brakes, but subsequent flights, where I landed a
bit long, proved them worthwhile and effective.
As far as speed is concerned, I’d estimate that
it flies at maybe 150mph at full throttle with the
Ace 60 putting out 12 pounds of thrust. In fact,
if using a more powerful turbine—something
making more than 18 pounds of thrust—it is
recommended that you not fly flat out, at full
throttle, or place the Xcalibur in a high-speed
dive. It’s a sport airplane, not a racing aircraft!
There’s not one typical jet maneuver that the
Xcalibur won’t do, so there’s no reason to feel
inferior while flying at any jet event. If you
currently fly any ARF warbird, you will find that
the Xcalibur flies in a similar fashion, with it
being just a bit faster at full throttle.
I had to show you the bottom
of the Xcalibur. John spent a
couple of hours getting that
T-Bird winged insignia applied.
Bottom Line
Any entry-level or sport jet that you pick will
share the same features. The main cabin will be
stuffed full of electronics and wires. I know—the
first time that you see all that stuff crammed
in there, it might seem a bit intimidating. But
really, it’s not that different from the ARF
sport airplane you’ve been flying—it’s just
more compact! There are no different, nutsy,
electronic gizmos to hook up other than the
wiring for the turbine—the same as you do for
an ignition system for your gas-powered prop
airplane. The turbine literally drops in place and
is held with four easy-to-get-at screws. Also,
the fuel lines from the tank are routed just the
same as in your prop plane. One huge difference
is the start sequence to get the turbine fired up.
With your prop job, you gotta choke it, flip the
prop a few times till it barks, unchoke it, flip the
prop till it starts, then set the mixture screws for
idle and full throttle. With the Ace 60 turbine—
and most others, by the way—the start
sequence is initiated from your transmitter.
Move the throttle trim all the way to the
extreme down position, move the throttle stick
rapidly to the full throttle and then immediately
to the idle position, and wait five seconds—the
turbine starts itself. It introduces jet fuel slowly
to start and idle; then, after it gets warmed up,
it slowly adds more fuel to bring it up to the
running stage. That’s it!
My parting words: If you fantasize about
joining the growing jet fraternity but don’t
want to take out a second mortgage to do so,
a midsize jet like the Xcalibur is just the ticket.
If you are apprehensive about getting a jet
because you “hear” that they are more trouble
than they are worth, fuhgeddaboudit! After
reading this article, you must realize that it is
quite simple. Buy the jet (Global Jet Club offers
“Package Deals”), get the AMA required waiver
(easy-peazy), grab some jet fuel, and join
us. The feeling will be about the same as the
day you soloed and didn’t crash! Flying a jet is
exhilarating, satisfying, and overwhelming—all
at the same time. Welcome to a brand new
fraternity! 
DECEMBER 2016 77
Luftwaffe Scale
Color and Markings
GETTING GERMAN AIRCRAFT RIGHT
BY DAVE PLATT
T
hroughout the course of World War II, from 1939 to 1945, the national
markings of the participants went through a series of changes. For the
most part, this was due to the need for camouflage. German aircraft,
in particular, were modified considerably, especially toward the end
of the war. In most cases, these were variations of existing standards, and it is
these standards that concern us scale modelers and is the subject of this article.
Here is a wonderful air-to-air image of the Messerschmitt Me 109E
over the clouds. (Photo by John Dibbs/planepicture.com)
DECEMBER 2016 79
Jeff Foley’s Top Gun–winning
Me 109E shows a typical Battle of
Britain color scheme—surely an
example of scale RC at its best.
LUFTWAFFE COLORS introduction of three new predominantly gray types, such as the Me 262 and Do 335 Arrow.
German Luftwaffe aircraft of WW II were colors: RLM 74, RLM 75 (tops), and RLM 76 An excellent source for color chips is the
painted with standardized paints, and (undersides). These colors remained in use for reference The Official Monogram Painting
regulations determined exactly when the duration of the war and were commonly Guide to German Aircraft 1935–1945,
and where these colors and markings seen on the FW 190 and also on various night which was published in the early 1980s. A
were to be used. The paint colors were fighters, such as the Ju 88G and He 219. On quick check at amazon.com indicates that
referred to with Ministry of Aviation, or these latter types, a rather attractive scheme there are still several copies available, although
Reichsluftfahrtministerium (RLM), numbers. of mottled RLM 75 over RLM 76 was the prices continue to rise. Another source for
Prior to WW II, most Luftwaffe aircraft—for normal application. Toward the end of the war, color chips is the chart from Eagle Editions
example, the Bücker Jungmeister and Heinkel the final colors issued by the Ministry—RLM 82 (Jerry Crandall), still available at $40 online
He 113—were finished overall in pale greenish and RLM 83—were seen mostly on late-war (eagle-editions.com).
gray (RLM 02 Grau). With the coming of
the war in 1939, better camouflage became
necessary. A green color, RLM 70, was added to
the RLM 02 in a splinter pattern to top surfaces
on aircraft like the Me 109E, He 111, and Do 17.
Undersurfaces became blue RLM 65. Additional
mottling of RLM 70 was often applied to the
sides of the fuselage. This was a common
scheme up to and including the Battle of Britain.
Later, another green, RLM 71, replaced RLM 02,
the resulting splintering of RLM 70 with RLM 71,
appearing almost as one color.
When hostilities reached North Africa, this
threw a new wrinkle in the works as the RLM
had no suitable desert colors. Having Italy as an
ally, who were used to desert operations and
had supplies of the needed colors available,
planes such as the Me 109 and Stuka appeared
in borrowed Italian war paint. Later, the RLM
developed a desert color: RLM 79. Further
changes in aircraft paint schemes in the Another excellent Luftwaffe fighter (Bf 109G) from Top Gun. It shows off the RLM 74, RLM 75, and RLM 76
European and Soviet theaters came with the scheme, with mottling patterns on the fuselage flanks.
This vintage photo of a flight of Ju 87 Stuka dive-bomber is a good study of typical This Dornier Do 335 typifies the spiraling size, weight, and cost of single-seat
Luftwaffe markings. (Photo courtesy of Stan Piet) fighters as the war progresses. Note the hollow swastika referred to in the text.
(Photo courtesy of Stan Piet)
LUFTWAFFE CROSSES (W/8). In many cases, additional corners in At this point, it is vital to mention that a
The normal wing and fuselage markings for black were added, with a thickness of 1/32 of careful study of the markings on the particular
Luftwaffe aircraft consisted of a plain black the overall marking’s width (see Figure 3). subject aircraft you are modeling is necessary.
cross with a width of one-fourth of its length The treatment of the wings’ upper Very often, for instance, the black portion of the
(see Figure 1); for example, if the overall marking surfaces was somewhat different. Due to the cross on the wing top surfaces was omitted,
width (W) was 4 feet, the thickness of each aforementioned need for lower visibility, the leaving only the white corners (see Figure 5).
“arm” would be 1 foot (W/4). To this basic cross, width of the white corners was reduced from The same variation was frequently seen on
white “corners” were added on the fuselage the 1/8 width to a 1/20 width, with an additional the fuselage crosses, and on occasion, the fin
and under the wings (see Figure 2); these corner of 1/32 width being added in black swastika could omit the black, leaving only the
corners were half the width of the cross arms (see Figure 4). white outline—the so-called “hollow” swastika.
W W/8
W/32
W/4
Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
W/20 W
A careful study of
the markings on the
particular subject
W/32
W/20 aircraft you are
modeling is necessary.
Figure 4 Figure 5
DECEMBER 2016 81
LUFTWAFFE SCALE COLOR AND MARKINGS
SWASTIKA EMBLEM Figure 6

Turning now to the vertical fin, the standard
proportions for the swastika are shown in
Figure 6. There are 25 squares in the grid, with
eight squares remaining unpainted. The figure
is also applied “diamond fashion,” and care
must be taken to ensure that is placed truly
vertical-horizontal and not rotated one degree
W/5
away from this. Around the black swastika, a
white surround was applied that
was 1/30 of the emblem’s width.
Keep in mind that the emblem
looks the same on both sides of
the tail—that is, it is not “left-handed” on
the starboard side.
W/30 W
ADDING THE
MARKINGS
There are basically two
ways of applying RC scale
markings: with decals and “Mister Scale”
Dave Platt is perhaps
with paint. If decals are
the most informed and
used, I prefer the traditional
experienced scale RC modeler
single-color decal material
who has written for MAN. Over
without clear edges that
Liquid Masking Film is the author’s the past 50+ years, Dave has
have to be trimmed away. preferred way to mask off painted become an internationally
The other type of decal is the markings. known and respected scale
vinyl, stick-on variety, but competitor, setting a high
in my opinion, these decals do not belong on serious scale models. standard for others to follow.
They cover up surface details and seriously mar the model’s scale Starting scale competition in
appearance. The best method, by far, is to paint the marking on 1963, Dave emigrated to the
your model. United States from England
Paint follows any shape and compound curve, and goes over in 1967 and started working
items such as rivets without covering them up. Also, painted for Top Flite in Chicago,
markings can be weathered along with the rest of the model. You developing the first stand-
can’t do that with decals. When it comes to masking your markings, off scale kits in 1970. In 1972, he founded Dave Platt Models, and
Liquid Masking Film, such as that offered by Bob Dively Models, throughout the ’70s and ’80s, he concentrated primarily on RC
gives the cleanest, most precise markings possible. Perhaps the scale and designed and kitted several new models. Dave served
best recommendation I can give is to say that I use Liquid Masking on the Scale Contest Board of the Academy of Model Aeronautics
Film on my own models. (AMA) for more than 20 years, and was inducted into the AMA Hall
The information I’ve presented is from a variety of sources, and of Fame in 1996 and became an AMA Fellow in 2005.
Dave has won numerous Pilots Choice and Critics Choice
again, it is up to you, the model builder, to check your aircraft’s
awards at events such as Top Gun and U.S. Scale Masters. Today,
documentation for accuracy. So go ahead, try your hand at scale
Dave is passing along his nearly 70 years of scale-modeling
painting. As with any new experience, mistakes will be made, but
experience through his popular Black Art series of videotapes and
with accurate marking layout and persistence, your efforts will
DVDs. For more information, go to daveplattmodels.com. J
eventually be rewarded.
P S I T E
E RS H I
M E MB
E M IUM
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ENTER PROMO CODE: mem50
HOW TO
Produce a
Vacuum-Formed Canopy
WHAT’S REQUIRED TO GET A COMMERCIAL PART MADE
TEXT & PHOTOS BY FRANK TIANO
Here’s a great vintage WW II shot of a captured FW 190. It shows, to good

advantage, the side profile of the canopy. (Photo courtesy of Stan Piet)
I
cannot even imagine how many times in my modeling life that I that, as soon as Top Gun was over, I would start the project of making a
have encountered needing a canopy for a special one-off project canopy plug for the FW 190. What I do remember is that Gerry said that
or have had a friend ask me what he might do to make a canopy it would make a great how-to article, and since I was doing the project
for a model he wished to design. It’s perhaps the one most hard regardless, why not take some photos along the way and share the
to come up with parts for a new design, unless someone else, process with our fellow modelers? I also remember saying to him that I
somewhere in some other part of the world, makes a model in the same doubted that there were very many “builders” left who don’t know how
size in which you are designing yours. to do this already but that I’d be happy to share the process with readers
What prompted me to write this article was my own personal dilemma, just the same.
having bought a large 124-inch span Focke-Wulf FW 190 from a friend, The finished piece that will be used to vacuum-form the canopy is
sight unseen. The model was supposedly from someone in Europe who called a “plug,” not a “mold” as many might think. The most important
had made just three of these before deciding to quit the model-airplane thing to know about making a plug is that the vacuum-form machine
business. After seeing the quality of the work, I’d say he made the right uses extreme pressure to pull the plastic material down over the plug, to
decision. The parts I received appeared to have been built with a knife suck it down tightly to get a good result. Why is this important to know?
and fork, certainly not with any modeling tools known to man. And to If the plug you make is not strong enough, the vacuum former will crush
make the worst possible scenario even worse, the fuselage had no your plug, rendering it useless. With that in mind, here’s how I went about
canopy! I called, emailed, texted, and sent Facebook messages trying to making my plug.
find information, but my efforts produced no results. So I was left in the
position of having to make my own canopy form/plug and finding a way to THE BUILD
get a clear canopy vacuum formed. The first thing I did was to make copies of my canopy drawings—for the
side view, front view, and top view—in the actual size for the model. If your
THE IDEA plans don’t show multiple views, you can blow up a three-view drawing
It doesn’t matter how I got to the point of telling MAN editor Gerry Yarrish or simply draw one yourself. I then cut out the drawings and sprayed
The plug starts with the side-view profile being glued with contact spray adhesive Here, you see the large base (top view) drawn on plywood, along with the front-
to a piece of plywood. view profile to the upper right.
the back sides with Scotch Spray Mount adhesive; this non-permanent I did this with a couple of different-style hobby carving planes, lots of
contact cement is used in art projects. I pasted the side-view drawing to 50-grit sandpaper (glued to sanding blocks), lots of elbow grease, and
a large piece of 1/8-inch plywood and carefully cut out the side profile a dictionary full of new curse words. Once I was certain that the pieces
piece using a band saw. The top view was cut out as well, and was used of wood were in the correct shape of the canopy, I used a see-through
to form a base. I then glued the side profile to the centerline of the base. ruler and drew a grid on the canopy plug in 1-inch sections, fore to aft,
The front-view piece was then glued in place to complete the basic form, then again at 90 degrees, horizontally. Gridding the plug allows you to
which I then backfilled with balsa blocks. Of course, I used Zap CA for all see immediately if any areas are not matching the corresponding area on
this gluing. The photos do a far better job than I do explaining everything, the other side. If an area needs filling or is too proud (high), the squares
and I’m sure you’ll understand the process once you study the photos. formed by the grids will show it. Any misshaped and probably not-so-
The next thing I did was to turn the blocks into the shape of the canopy. square shapes will become obvious.
Here, the three profile pieces have

been glued together, forming the
basic shape of the plug.
DECEMBER 2016 87
HOW TO PRODUCE A VACUUM-FORMED CANOPY
Using several blocks of balsa, the bulk of the plug is built up. Zap glue is used After the plug is cut, planed, and sanded to shape, I add extra material to the front
throughout. and aft ends. The grid drawn on the plug helps keep it symmetrical as I sand it to
shape. Filler is used to bring shallow areas back up to the proper height.
THE FINISH THE VACUUM FORM

After filling and sanding the plug to its final configuration, I added an inch of If any of you decide to do this, keep in mind that it is important to make
extra material to the front, rear, and bottom of the plug. These are the areas arrangements with someone who is willing to do the vacuum forming for
where, eventually, the vacuum-formed plastic canopy will be trimmed you. There are many companies who might do it for free, and others who
away. After adding these additions and being satisfied that the canopy was would charge a fee. Regardless, set something up before doing all this
symmetrical, I fiberglassed the whole thing using three coats of Z-Poxy labor. The last thing that you need to have is a beautiful plug and nowhere
Finishing Resin and a 2-ounce cloth. I allowed four hours between the first to send it to produce your canopy! In my case, my “adopted son” Nick
and second coats, and waited overnight before applying the third coat. On Ziroli Jr., of Nick Ziroli Plans, just happens to make part of his living from
the third day, I sanded everything, making sure that the plug was as smooth vacuum forming objects for industry—usually large non-model-related
as possible. I then finish-sanded the plug with 400-grit sandpaper. I blew parts, like dashboards, chair backs, armrests, and who knows what.
off the dust on the plug using an air hose, wiped the plug with a tack cloth, Nicky’s technique for pulling a canopy over the plug might differ,
then wiped it again with denatured alcohol. I then shot a couple of coats depending on the condition of the plug, but here’s what he did in my
of PPG K36 primer on it. Once the primer was fully cured, I wet-sanded case. He asked me what the finish was on the plug. I told him Klass Kote
the plug using 400- then 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper. To be absolutely Epoxy paint. He heated up the clear plastic to a high temperature to
sure that the plug had zero imperfections, I sprayed on a light coat of gloss soften it before it was pulled down and vacuumed tight against the plug.
black Klass Kote Epoxy paint. The black revealed no dings or scratches, so He was concerned that the plastic might be too hot—hot enough to
I applied another two coats; when that was fully cured, the plug was ready blister the pretty epoxy painted finish—which would then transfer those
for the vacuum former. imperfections to my nice canopy! So being the expert that he is, he first
Here the plug, resting on the model for inspiration, has been covered with The cloth has been filled with Z-Poxy (and more filler putty) and is ready for more
fiberglass cloth. sanding and priming. Several coats of resin and lots of sanding are required for a
smooth blemish-free finish.
The ultimate test of smoothness is to apply a coat of gloss black epoxy paint. Black Here is the first black plastic pull that Nick covered my plug with and the finished
is unforgiving and reveals the smallest imperfections. clear canopy in the background. The end result is a crystal-clear canopy.
pulled a black matte piece of plastic over my plug, and after it had cooled, but Pacer’s PT-56 Canopy Glue to glue canopies in place; it dries clear and
he then—leaving the black plastic in place—pulled the clear plastic over cleans up with water until it has set.
the black stuff. The result was a crystal-clear canopy. If the canopy didn’t So if you are ever in the same jam as I was, send in your plugs to Nick
fit, the fault would be mine because the vacuum-formed plastic piece was Jr. to get a canopy pulled. After receiving your plug, Nick or one of his
exactly the same shape and size as the plug that I sent him. assistants will contact you to let you know if the plug is good enough to
You can see that the finished clear-plastic canopy fits pretty well under be formed over and will give you a price estimate. Send the plug to Nick
the Focke-Wulf’s upper-fuselage framework. For now, the canopy is just Ziroli Plans, 2231 #22 5th Ave., Ronkonkoma, NY 11779. Include your return
in place; it will not be glued in until after the inside of the framework has address and contact information. In the meantime, I hope that I have
been painted and properly fitted to the top of the fuselage. I use nothing cleared things up for you a bit! 
Here, the new canopy is being fitted to the

upper-fuselage framework.
DECEMBER 2016 89
Let’s Talk Giant Scale
BY JOHN GLEZELLIS
Engine Considerations
Hangar 9 QQ Yak 54, each tank is mounted on
a tray that is secured to the phenolic wing tube.
Due to the fact that the Desert Aircraft engines
When you’re selecting the correct power source for a particular giant-scale use carburetors that are pumped, this distance
project, you have many factors to consider, including the size, weight, is possible.
sound, noise level desired, and carburetor type of the engine. Furthermore, Not all engines, however, allow one to
these requirements change with the intent of the project. A giant-scale position the tank at a fair distance from the
carburetor. On another example, like my
aerobatic enthusiast, for example, is looking for pure performance,
Hangar 9 DHC-2 Beaver, which uses the Saito
whereas a scale builder might only be interested in replicating the sound FG-33R3 engine, the tank is installed directly
of the full-scale subject. behind the carburetor as it is a requirement for
proper functionality. While the Saito FG-33R3
The core discussion for the month will however, and a firm understanding is required. carburetor has a pump, the pumping pressure is
revolve around gasoline-powered models and not very strong. For this type of engine, the fuel
the fundamentals behind analyzing an aircraft TANK INSTALLATION tank should be placed as close to the engine as
and the engine to determine the appropriate On precision aerobatic models, it is best possible, with the fuel level being positioned so
fuel tank location. We will then examine certain to install the fuel tank (and smoke tank if that it is slightly lower than the center of the
fuel tank installation and plumbing practices as applicable) on the center of gravity (CG) of the carburetor. If a tank is forward or aft of the CG,
well as a few techniques behind proper fuel and airplane. Doing this will ensure that no matter the characteristics of the airplane will change
oil mixtures. After all, many decisions must be how much fuel or smoke fluid is within each depending on the amount of fuel in each tank.
made, and for the newcomer into the world of respective tank, the flight characteristics of the Interestingly, though, not all pilots will be able to
giant-scale flight, many of these topics might aircraft will not change over the course a flight; note this performance change.
appear overwhelming. Each topic is critical the model will be perfectly balanced no matter Additionally, many scale projects will require
in ensuring longevity for a given airplane, how much fuel or smoke fluid exists. On my unique fuel tank locations, so a builder can
For extreme aerobatic models, the fuel

tank should be as close to the center of
gravity as possible to allow the pilot to
experience the same flight characteristics
no matter how much fuel—and smoke fluid,
if applicable—remains!
Left: On the Hangar 9 QQ Yak 54, the fuel tank is secured to a plywood tray that is installed directly over the wing tube. Before doing this on your model, always check with
the instruction manual provided with your engine. As it was noted over the course of the column, some engines require a tank that is close to the carburetor. Right: Route
the vent line around the fuel tank to prevent fuel from siphoning out of the aircraft.
complete, for example, the cockpit interior the pickup line between the carburetor and the potentially harm the tank over time. The clunk,
like that which can be found on my 1/4-scale fuel tank that will attach to a fuel dot to allow which can have a filter, must be able to move
Bellanca Super Decathlon. On this particular the pilot to easily fuel and defuel the airplane. freely, and all internal lines should be checked
build, the tank dimensions were confined For a standard three-line setup, connect on a yearly basis as fuel lines can harden over
by the cockpit interior, and mounting a tank the tank’s “pickup” line from the tank to the time. Instead of Tygon, Viton is preferred by
in a traditional orientation would result in it carburetor. Then if you’re using a three-line some in an effort to prevent this noted problem.
being exposed and visibly noticeable, which tank configuration, connect a fill line to a fuel And when appropriate, always use gasoline-
is highly undesired for scale enthusiasts. filler or fuel dot. Connect the vent line to a compatible fuel tubing and tank stoppers.
After performing a few searches for current fitting, if applicable, or fasten it so that it will If you’re assembling a Du-Bro or Sullivan-
market offerings and examining different tank not make contact with the engine and will style tank, you’ll need to bend the internal brass
dimensions, I decided to purchase a tank from be properly positioned on the bottom of the tubes and cut them to specific lengths. To
B&B Specialties and rotate it 90 degrees so aircraft. Within the tank, the vent line should not assist, K&S and Du-Bro offer a few tools that
that it was parallel to the firewall former. Many make contact with the fuel tank as this could greatly simplify this entire process. Make certain
builders will look for certain fuel tank shapes
that can fit within a given structure. In fact, I
have even seen some construct their own fuel
tanks for custom applications!
Many options exist for tank mounting. I
prefer to secure a tank to the tank tray using
Du-Bro’s 1/4-inch foam rubber or similar
product. It is best to also use hook-and-loop
fastener, with the adhesive backing, between
the tank tray, foam rubber, and the tank. Use
of the foam-rubber material will help keep
the tank insulated against vibration that is
common from the gasoline engine to prevent
fuel foaming. Also, two hook-and-loop straps
should be used to hold the tank to the tray.
While some prefer to use rubber bands, I have
found that, over time, the rubber-band material
can deteriorate. Others prefer the use of plastic
tie wraps. Like most things in life, it boils down
to personal preference.
PLUMBING PRACTICES
With respect to individual plumbing, two- and
three-line tank configurations are possible.
For the conventional two-line method on a
standard gasser, the line that goes from the
pickup line within the tank will connect to
the carburetor, and the vent line, which is the
second line in this configuration, will go to a vent
Installing foam rubber under the tank will help prevent additional vibration from occurring, which can cause
fitting on the bottom of the aircraft. Typically, in foaming of the fuel supply. Additionally, note that Sullivan twist ties have been used on all three lines shown
this configuration, a three-way fitting is used on in the photo.
DECEMBER 2016 91
Let’s talk giant scale
that all components are properly cleaned and

that all liquid has dried before adding any fuel
to the tank. It is beneficial to wrap the vent
line around the fuel tank to prevent fuel from
siphoning out of the aircraft. For safety, use
solder-on fuel-line barbs and either install
either zip ties on all fuel lines or twist ties that
are available from Sullivan Products.
OIL SELECTION BASICS

Assuming that the engine installation process
and plumbing is complete, it is time to discuss
oil and fuel mixtures before proceeding to the
flying field. To start, one should always begin by
looking at the instruction manual provided with
the engine to see what type of oil and oil mix
ratio is required. The purpose of two-stroke oil
is to maintain lubrication, create compression,
and ensure that the engine does not overheat
with use. A variety of synthetic oils are available
today, and interestingly, some oils that are
intended for two-stroke engines have dilution
rates of 100:1. Precise measurements must
exist as the end result could be disastrous for
both the engine as well as the aircraft! A mixing
bottle, like that from Ignition Products, available This particular mixing bottle, which is available from Chief Aircraft, greatly simplifies the oil and fuel
mixing process.
through Chief Aircraft, is ideal for accurate mix
ratios as the bottle is marked with specific mix
amounts as well as the appropriate number of oil and mix ratio for each engine. For example, Mix amounts differ during the break-in
gallons of fuel. I own giant-scale airplanes that use various process compared to standard flying once
After you measure the appropriate oil Desert Aircraft, Zenoah Power, Evolution, and the engine has been properly tuned. The
amount into the mixing bottle, empty the oil Saito gasoline engines. Let’s examine the additional oil that i s noted during the break-in
into the gasoline container and pour gasoline recommended oil mix ratios for a few of these process is needed for cooling and the removal
into the mixing bottle and funnel it with fuel. engines and see how they compare: of break-in debris from the engine. Additionally,
Then, pour the gasoline into the gasoline not all oil brands require the same oil ratio.
container to ensure that all oil particles are no Desert Aircraft 50cc and 120cc . . ... . ... . ... . .. 40:1 Always check with the manufacturer of a
longer within the mixing bottle. Zenoah Power G-38 ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . . 32–40:1 given engine for proper break-in and regular
When a builder owns many different types Evolution 80GX .. . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... 40:1 tuning techniques. While many options exist,
of engines, it is important to have the proper Saito FG-33R3 ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . ... . .. 15–20:1 I use Red Line synthetic oil, which is available
Securing fuel lines is required to prevent contact with hot areas, like that of the For redundancy in ensuring that no debris enters the fuel supply, fuel filters can be
exhaust headers or any other part of the engine. used both on the fuel line found within the airplane as well as on the gas can.
Here, the author’s gas can and pump
combination contains a fuel and oil mixture
specifically for his Zenoah G-38 engine. When
flying models with different engines, having
specific fuel containers for each mixture
is convenient.
from Desert Aircraft. manual pump filler by Jersey Modeler. Similarly, I and oil ratio to avoid confusion in preparing for
On a personal note, because I own and fly use a different fuel tank and pump configuration an outing at the flying field.
a variety of giant-scale models with different for the Saito engine and for my commonly flown To avoid any foreign particles from entering
engines, I prefer to use individual gas cans that giant-scale Yak 54, a larger 2.5-gallon fuel tank the carburetor and resulting in a possible engine
are for each specific oil and fuel mixture. For with an electric pump, also by Jersey Modeler. failure, it is important to use an in-line filter in
example, on my Super Decathlon, which uses Also, each fuel jug should be marked with a the fuel jug as well as within the aircraft on the
a Zenoah Power G-38, I have a 1.25-gallon felt-tip marker with their respective gasoline line that is connected to the carburetor. Felt
filters exist, like those from B&B Specialties.
While I have never experienced any issues with
this type of filter and clunk combination, I have
heard others experience a problem where,
as time goes on, the fibers from the felt clunk
broke down and found their way to the supply
line. The most important action that one can
take is to follow proper maintenance practices.
Not a season goes by when I don’t inspect the
fuel tank, fuel lines, and all other critical areas
of the aircraft.
FINAL THOUGHTS
In closing, you have not only expanded your
knowledge on determining the correct tank
location for certain aircraft types as well as
the engine used but also learned about a few
installation practices and the importance behind
proper fuel and oil mixtures. If you are unsure
about any particular item that was covered in
this article, please seek the advice of a fellow
modeler or feel free to write to us at MAN@
A fuel dot from Hangar 9 has been installed on this model, which features a three-line tank configuration. airage.com. J
DECEMBER 2016 93
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GB205 NORTH AMERICAN T-28 TROJAN Ginter SC ........$16.95
GB290 ANG/FOREIGN F-86D/K/L Curtis 81 pgs, SC ...........$19.95 The Walk Around Series from Squadron Signal
GB274 MARTIN P5M MARLIN PATROL SC ........................$34.95 provides extensive, up close photographic detail.
GB271 DOUGLAS TBD DEVASTATOR Ginter SC ................$19.95 200+ photos, line drawings & color profiles;
GB245P DOUGLAS A3D SKYWARRIOR PT.1 Cunningham SC ..$26.95
GB275 GRUMMAN F7F TIGERCAT Steve Ginter SC............$34.95
80 pages; soft cover
GB235 DOUGLAS F5D-1 SKYLANCER Ginter SC ...............$10.95
SS495 MiG-15 Stapfer ....................................................... $18.95 SS503 MESSERSCHMITT Bf 109G Stapfer ..................... $18.95
GB266 GRUMMAN F9F-6/7/8 COUGAR PT.1 Meyer SC .....$19.95
SS553 AH-64 APACHE Bernstein..................................... $18.95 SS570 B-29 SUPERFORTRESS (Reissue) Savage ............ $18.95
GB294 N. AMER. SABRE DOG USAF F-86D/L SC ...............$22.95 SS572 MACCHI C.205 Di Terlizzi .................................... $18.95 SS717 SAAB 37 VIGGEN Putnikov .................................. $18.95
GB277 CURTISS XBTC-2 EGGBEATER Kowalski SC ...........$12.95 SS588 F-84F THUNDERSTREAK Neubeck ..................... $18.95 SS732 SPITFIRE (MERLIN) Mackay ............................... $18.95
GB263P GRUMMAN GOOSE Ginter 74 pgs, 150 photos, SC ..$21.95 SS598 F-89 SCORPION Savage........................................ $18.95 SS683 KC-135 STRATOTANKER Katz ............................ $18.95
GB581 REP. XF-84H THUNDERSCREECH Ginter, SC .........$14.95 SS612 SAAB 35 DRAKON Putnikov................................. $18.95 SS694 HEINKEL He 111 Mackay ..................................... $18.95
GB839 LOCKHEED F-94 STARFIRE Carey, SC ......................$39.95 SS616 LANCASTER BOMBER Mackay........................... $18.95 SS696 B-25 MITCHELL Doyle ......................................... $18.95
Find these and 75 more books published by SS615 F-102A DELTA DAGGER Neubeck ........................ $18.95 SS666 F9F COUGAR Neubeck.......................................... $18.95
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Steve Ginter on our website!
Flight Journal Bookshelf | www.ModelAirplaneBooks.com

Product Watch
MINI REVIEWS OF EDITORS’ FAVORITES
Sullivan Products
SkySmoke Smoke Fluid
T
eaming up with Super-Dri, Sullivan Products has
come out with its new SkySmoke Smoke Fluid. Made
with 100 percent paraffinic oil, SkySmoke contains no
zinc chloride, so it burns much cleaner and produces thick
billowy smoke. Intended for RC use, it’s compatible with all
RC airplane materials including foam, paint, iron-on films like
MonoKote, and fabrics such as Solartex. With a retail price of
$29.99 (for 1 gallon), it works great with Sullivan’s SkyWriter
Smoke Pump system and is also great for turbine jet engines.
Using my 1/3-scale Fokker Triplane powered with a
Zenoah GT-80 gas engine, I tested the SkySmoke Smoke
Fluid. I flipped the switch, and the smoke trail was very white
and had decent hang time. I use a remote needle valve
between my smoke pump and the dual Slimline smoke
mufflers. I tweaked the needle valve, cutting back slightly
with the amount of fluid fed, using a T fitting and a Sullivan
check valve, into the twin mufflers. With almost no wind, the
next test flight produced an impressive dense smoke trail. I
was very pleased. I was able to cut back on the amount used
without affecting the smoke-trail quality, which also reduced
the amount of residue on the model—a win-win combo,
for sure. SkySmoke is available in 5-gallon containers, and
Sullivan offers AMA club pricing for their 55-gallon drums.
—Gerry Yarrish
sullivanproducts.com
PowerBox Systems iGyro 3e
H
oused in a sturdy anodized aluminum case, the iGyro 3e offers control. In a nutshell, this allows easy adjustment of the gain percentages
amazing flight stabilization and is an excellent choice for any sport to adjust the amount of stability response. The iGyro has two modes:
pilot who wants high-end flight stabilization at a great price point. Heading and Normal. Normal mode (green LED) provides momentary
Providing true three-axis control, the response feels natural and well corrective control deflections should the model be affected by wind.
balanced. The unit is well marked, and the layout for lead input and output When Heading mode (red LED) is selected, the iGyro stabilizes in all three
makes it easy to install and set up. flight axes, as long as the control stick is in the neutral position. Moving
The iGyro 3e goes between the receiver and the stick causes the unit to revert back to normal
your servos, and the gain can be adjusted in flight mode. I found that the Heading mode works great
using an auxiliary channel. It took only a few for aerobatic maneuvers like inverted flight, knife-
minutes to install in my test airplane, a .60-size edge, and hover.
Florio Flyer fun-fly plane. The iGyro 3e has been Test flying my Florio 60, I took off with the
specially developed for fixed-wing model aircraft iGyro deactivated. Trimmed for straight and level, I
and provides a natural feel in the air. The unit is made a mental note of the wind conditions. I then
ready to install and comes with six male-to-male activated the Normal mode and instantly felt the
leads, instructions, and thin double-sided foam stabilizing effect—very cool. I then rolled inverted
mounting tape. It is easy to adjust the gain ranges and hit the switch for Heading mode. The model
using a laptop, PC, or the new smartphone app. continued on its path perfectly stable with no
Testing for proper response is simple by simply stick inputs. It did the same thing during vertical
tilting the model and observing for the proper climbs. When I hit the switch, it locked onto the
control corrections. Should any of the responses upline so well that I was able to easily enter a
be backward, you can easily reverse them using hover simply by reducing the throttle, albeit at a
the push button and the LED indicators. The unit also features delta and very high altitude. It worked the same for knife-edge and four-point rolls.
V-tail mixer functions. Every time that I returned the stick to neutral, the model locked into the
I used the mounting tape to stick the unit to the base of my radio new attitude.
compartment, making sure that the unit was level in both the X and Priced at $195, the iGyro 3e is a great three-axis flight stabilizer. While
Y axes. I connected servo leads to the unit and then connected the unit it isn’t an autopilot, it does an excellent job of making you a smoother
to the receiver. I mated the gain port and the auxiliary channel on my pilot.—Gerry Yarrish J
receiver, using a rotary knob on my Spektrum DX9 transmitter for gain chiefaircraft.com
Final Approach
TEXT & PHOTOS BY SAL CALVAGNA
Gene Gavin’s Pfalz E.II: The “Other” Eindecker
W
e are always on the lookout
for airplanes that stand out
on the flightline. When we Gene Gavin shows off his unusual Pflaz E.II,
which is similar but not the same as the
find one, it is also a treat
infamous Fokker Eindecker.
to learn that it is a unique,
scratch-built airplane. We recently
bumped into Gene Gavin of Staten
Island, New York, and he had with him a
seldom-seen World War I aeroplane: the
Pfalz E.II Eindecker. Scratch-built from
his own plans, Gene’s 1/3-scale Pfalz E.II
spans 120 inches and is 82 inches long.
Gene had been flying his SR Batteries’
1/4-scale Fokker Eindecker for several
years, and he wanted something bigger
and similar in layout. But like most RC
modelers, he wanted something that
was also different.
The Pfalz Eindecker was actually built
under contract from Morane-Saulnier,
and while closely resembling the
infamous Fokker Eindecker, there were
a number of differences.
The full-size Pfalz had a fuselage
completely built of wood (the Fokker
E.III had a welded steel-tube frame).
In addition, the landing gear and wing
warping attachments were very
different in setup and operation.
Gene’s Pfalz is powered by a DLE-111
twin-cylinder two-stroke gas engine
swinging a 29x12 propeller, and it has an
all-up flying weight of 42 pounds. The
model is covered with Solartex fabric and was painted using Rustoleum the fuselage in two parts. The front half retains all the attachment points for
spray-can paint. The cowl is from a Balsa USA 1/3-scale Fokker triplane kit. the fully rigged wings, and is simply bolted to the aft section of the fuselage.
The model sports large ailerons for roll control, however, because the full- In the air, the model is an outstanding performer with plenty of power
size aircraft used wing warping; Gene skillfully hid the ailerons from top view for typical dogfight maneuvers. Overall, this unusual WW I design is just
by extending the wing’s covering material over the top of the ailerons to one of several unique planes built by this consummate scale modeler.
cover the hinge lines. To simplify field setup and ease of transport, Gene built Nice work, Gene! 
Left: The aft portion of the fuselage is attached to the front half with some screws, then the elevator and rudder servos are plugged into the receiver. Right: The front half of the
fuselage shows off the classic WW I detailing and pilot figure. The wing halves can be removed or left in place with the front half for easier transportation to the flying field.

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Step Up to Turbine Jets!

THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1929

Monster Scale Skyraider

Fiberglass Pilot Figure German December 2016 US $6.99 Canada $8.99

Parts 101 Details WW II

The FirsT Blade® FPV airFrame

shown equiPPed wiTh:

Find out more at

VISIT CLICK CALL SERIOUS FUN ®

46 Gallery: Phil Clark’s

60 How To: Make Fiberglass Parts

78 Luftwaffe Scale Color and Markings

86 How To: Produce a

54 E-flite/Horizon Hobby UMX P-51D

PRINTED IN THE USA

Facebook World’s Biggest RC Turbine Jet

facebook.com/ twitter.com/ pinterest.com/ instagram.com/ youtube.com/ feedback@ Model Airplane News

HOMEMADE FUEL-LINE BARBS

GARAGE STORAGE SPACE

HEAT SHRINK SECURITY SIMPLE BALANCER

Anderson Pereira, São José do Rio Preto, Brazil

Hacker-Model Foam Aerobats

Blade 250 CFX

Intended as a low- to midlevel

There’s plenty of room

molded-plastic guide channels. You have to pull

PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCE PILOT DEBRIEFING

Paint and Apply Pastels

Scale pilot figures are

PREPARE THE FIGURE

Lyle Vasser doing what he does

the neck, and a little around the eyebrows.

APPLY A 12 O’CLOCK SHADOW

A WORD ABOUT GRADIENTS

Be subtle: Touch just a pinhead bit of pastel under the

left by the airbrush. You should also see your pilot

Any pilot figure adds realism to the model’s overall

B attention two websites that I am sure readers who are interested in

Q&A Email your questions to Clarence Lee at [email protected].

CONDOR .91 FOUR-STROKE Answer: Samuel, I’m afraid I can’t be of

STARTING ISSUES With that as my background,

WHAT MAKES AN AMA MEMBERSHIP

MEMBER INSURANCE BENEFIT IF YOU PURCHASED IT

AMA STANDS UP FOR YOUR RIGHT TO FLY

MORE VALUABLE BENEFITS OF MEMBERSHIP

Model Aviation Digital available for

The full-scale Ultimate biplane was intended as a

O.S. as well as a four-stroke engine and

Phil Clark’s Monster-Scale Skyraider

All decked out and ready for

Weatronic receiver systems as well as two 7.2-volt

The Moki 400cc radial engine is a truly big powerplant.

MAN: What about the finish and paint?

MAN: So how does the big Skyraider fly?

In flight, the 30 percent scale Skyraider is a sight to

Test pilot and future owner

agreed to be my test pilot. After some taxi

Everyone who even has the slightest interest