2023 08 01BonAppetit

The Grilling Issue
2
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Table of Contents
August
VOLUME 68 NUMBER 6
TABLE TALK 32 FEATURES 78

PICK OF THE PANTRY MARINADE ON IT
11 The fiery delights of 46 Whether you have 15 minutes
BASICALLY canned red curry paste. KING OF THE GRILL or eight hours, these flavorful
Going big on basil. BY RACHEL GURJAR Fire up the grill for a Chinese marinades make the most of the
BY ANTARA SINHA American menu with roots in time you’ve got.
36 South Carolina’s Lowcountry BY KENDRA VACULIN
16 SMALL PLATES, BIG OPINIONS from chef Shuai Wang.
DINNER’S SERVED Choose-your-own-adventure IN EVERY ISSUE
Spicy jerk shrimp, mustardy meals are television host 56
cabbage and kielbasa, and Molly Yeh’s trick for satisfying FARMERS MARKET 6
more hot-and-fast weeknight adults and kids alike. CHALLENGE FROM THE EDITOR
grilling recipes. AS TOLD TO DORKYS RAMOS Produce-driven recipes
featuring just five ingredients. 86
26 41 BY KELSEY YOUNGMAN RECIPE INDEX
SWEET SPOT THE GETAWAY RECIPES BY RACHEL GURJAR
A sour cherry crumb cake Author Yasmin Khan shares AND ZAYNAB ISSA 88
destined to be the pageant her dreamy sun-kissed guide to DREAM DINNER PARTY
queen of the picnic potluck. Cyprus, an island where the 64 For actor-comedian Kevin
food is as exciting as the terrain. THE JOY OF COOKING Hart, dinner is serious business.
30 WITH APPLIANCES BY DAWN DAVIS
REFRIGERATOR RAID 44 Our test kitchen editors’
What’s in Canadian chef ALL ON THE TABLE highly opinionated guide to ON THE COVER
Chinese Barbecue Pork Chops (for recipe,
Matty Matheson’s fridge? For author Adrienne Brodeur, the equipment they can’t live
see p. 54). Photograph by Isa Zapata.
(Hint: There’s a lot of dairy.) romantic chemistry hinges on without—and recipes that’ll Food styling by Shuai Wang. Prop styling
AS TOLD TO ALI FRANCIS culinary compatibility. make you into a true believer. by Megan Forbes and Christina Hussey.
A view of Aphrodite’s Rock

on Cyprus’s southern coast
P. 41
P H OTO G R A P H BY M A R C O A R G Ü E L LO
From stovetop to grill, groundbreaking molecular titanium delivers
high performance, high heat tolerance, and lasting beauty.
Developed by chefs and handcrafted in Italy to last a lifetime.
hestanculinary.com
Editor in Chief
DAWN DAVIS
Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA

Director of Editorial Operations NICK TRAVERSE
Food Director CHRIS MOROCCO
EDITORIAL
Editorial Director SERENA DAI
Digital Director SASHA LEVINE
Senior Editors, Cooking EMMA LAPERRUQUE,
KELSEY YOUNGMAN
Restaurant Editor ELAZAR SONTAG
Culture Editor KAREN YUAN
Editor, Cooking & SEO JOE SEVIER
Editor JENNIFER HOPE CHOI
Staff Writers ALI FRANCIS, SAM STONE
Associate Editor, Cooking ANTARA SINHA
Associate Editor, Cooking & SEO ZOE DENENBERG
Digital Operations Associate ALMA AVALLE
Editorial Operations Associate KATE KASSIN
Digital Production Assistant LI GOLDSTEIN
Editorial Assistant NINA MOSKOWITZ
Recipe Production Assistant CARLY WESTERFIELD
Entertainment Director CAITLIN BRODY
Editorial Intern KAT CHEN
Contributing Editors HILARY CADIGAN, ELYSE INAMINE,
AMANDA SHAPIRO, AMIEL STANEK
Associate Director, Commerce EMILY JOHNSON
Senior Commerce Editor MACKENZIE CHUNG FEGAN
Associate Commerce Editor MEGAN WAHN
Commerce Writer TIFFANY HOPKINS
Commerce Producer ALAINA CHOU
DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY

Associate Creative Director CAROLINE NEWTON
Visuals Director JOSÉ GINARTE
Art Director HAZEL ZAVALA
Art Assistant JULIA DUARTE
Associate Visuals Editor MARC WILLIAMS
Staff Photographer ISA ZAPATA
PRODUCTION, COPY, & RESEARCH

Production Managers MATT CARSON, KATE FENOGLIO
Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON
Copy Manager BRIAN CARROLL
Research Director RYAN HARRINGTON
Contributing Research Editor MARISSA WOLKENBERG
SOCIAL & AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT VIDEO Old City splendor

Global Director of Audience Development, Head of Digital Video JUNE KIM in Nicosia, Cyprus
Analytics, & Social Media MATT DOMINO Executive Producer LAUREN BRENNER P. 41
Associate Director, Social Media Director of Programming JONATHAN WISE
URMILA RAMAKRISHNAN Senior Director of Creative Development DAN SIEGEL
Senior Manager, Social Media ESRA EROL Directors of Creative Development
Associate Manager, Social Media OLIVIA QUINTANA MARIA PAZ MENDEZ HODES, IAN STROUD
Associate Analytics Director CLARA CHEN Associate Director of Creative Development, Social
ADAM MOUSSA
TEST KITCHEN Director of Content ALI INGLESE
Deputy Food Editor HANA ASBRINK Director of Culinary Production KELLY JANKE
Food Editor SHILPA USKOKOVIC Culinary Producer MALLARY SANTUCCI
Associate Food Editors RACHEL GURJAR, Culinary Researcher & Recipe Editor VIVIAN JAO
ZAYNAB ISSA, KENDRA VACULIN Programming Manager JILLIAN MATT
Test Kitchen Coordinator INÉS ANGUIANO Directors GUNSEL PEHLIVAN, CHRIS PRINCIPE
Senior Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS Producers MEL IBARRA, PARISA KOSARI, TYRE NOBLES,
Recipe Editor JONATHAN MILDER LISA PARADISE, TOMMY WERNER
4 A U G U ST 20 23 P H OTO G R A P H BY M A R C O A R G Ü E L LO
TREAT
YOUR
TASTEBUDS
WITH A TRIP
© Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau — The Oﬃcial Destination Sales & Marketing Organization for Greater Miami and Miami Beach
From the Editor
Editor in chief Dawn Davis shares what’s on her mind and
gets a little help and intel from the BA test kitchen
Q: Our test kitchen has some very

Pistachio-flecked strong opinions about kitchen appliances
cannoli ice cream (page 64). One tidbit from that story
P. 77 stopped me in my tracks: In Shilpa
Uskokovic’s ode to the ice cream maker,
she teased that she also uses it for frozen
margaritas. Storage space is at
a premium in my apartment and
I don’t often make room for single-use
appliances. But if an ice cream maker can
also churn out drinks that are refreshing
on a blistering day, I’m here for it.
Can you share how, exactly, one might
Food director Chris Morocco says:

To me, frozen drinks are pure joy, from
the watermelon slushies I used to buy
from the convenience store as a kid to
the crystalline bliss of a frozen cocktail.
An ice cream machine is great for these
since it actually has a lot in common
with frozen drink machines. It produces
icy drinks with better texture and more
concentrated flavor than those blitzed
in a blender and doesn’t require any
additional ice. To make about 8 (fairly
strong!) margaritas, combine 2 cups
tequila, 1 cup fresh lime juice, ¾ cup
triple sec (or simple syrup), a pinch of
kosher salt, and 1 cup water in an ice
cream maker. Spin until the texture is
FOOD STYLING BY JUDY KIM (ICE CREAM). PROP STYLING BY GÖZDE EKER (ICE CREAM).
slushy and the mixture holds its shape.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISA ZAPATA (ICE CREAM); COURTESY SANT’ANGELO RESORT (ITALY).

Scoop into glasses with a ladle and serve.
What I’m Loving

The rustic-chic resort that made my trip
For years I dreamed of traveling to Puglia, the region that makes up the heel of Italy. With towns
full of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, ancient breadmaking techniques, and quaint repurposed
farmhouses, it did not disappoint. But the real surprise and delight was the city of Matera,
which is just west of Puglia and well worth the detour. The whole town seems to be carved out
of limestone, including some remarkable churches, restaurants, and hotels. The Sant’Angelo
Luxury Resort, where I stayed, includes stylish rooms built into ancient cave dwellings, making
for thrilling accommodations and a perfect home base from which to explore the town’s rich
and riveting history. Don’t miss the pasta (or the views) at Regiacorte, the resort’s lovely restaurant.
EX PLOR E
THE UNR IVALED ™
A heavenly lavender scent heightens the joy of strolling the villages
and cities of Provence. Delighting in landscapes that inspired the likes of
Van Gogh, Matisse and Chagall, you toast your fragrant excursion with a glass
of local Sauvignon Blanc and a simple meal of Mediterranean perfection.
Back on board, you savor this delicious memory while dreaming

of more to come, all amongst the unrivaled space and consummate
service found only aboard The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet™.
ICONIC EXPLORATIONS
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to Alaska & Europe
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CALL 1.844.473.4368 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR
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Get 50,000+ recipes
in one app from
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TEST KITCHEN TIPS, RESTAURANTS,
RECIPES, and TRAVEL, and FOOD
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THOUGHT
Pesto may be the first thing (and one of the best things) that comes to mind when we think
A B A S I C A L LY G U I D E T O : B A S I L
of basil, but this tender herb is no one -trick pony. Read on to unlock its full potential.
A U G U ST 20 23 11
Basically
Basil Basics
Now’s the time to buy basil by the bundle and use it by the handful
SHADES OF GREEN
There’s a whole wide world of
basil out there. While the plant is
believed to have originated in Asia
(there’s some dispute on whether
BY ANTARA SINHA PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA it first came from present-day China
or India), it’s been cultivated and
beloved for the past 5,000 years in
all corners of the world. As a result,
there are many different types
of basil, with a delicious range of
flavors and uses. Here are a few
of the most common.
Sweet Italian
True to its name, this easy-to-find
type is often used in Mediterranean
cooking and is beloved for its mild,
lemony, and, well, sweet flavor.
You’ll know it by its plush light
green leaves that bruise easily and
its tender, flexible stems.
Thai
Thai basil tastes mildly spicy, with
aromas of anise and licorice. With
hardier purple stems and ribbed,
pointed dark green leaves that are
sturdier than sweet basil’s, Thai
basil stands up well to high-heat
cooking applications like stir-fries.
Tulsi
Also known as holy basil, this
type is mildly astringent, with
a distinctly peppery, almost
cinnamon-like flavor. It’s cultivated
for religious purposes by Hindus
and for its purported medicinal
benefits in Ayurveda. Holy basil
has hardy stems, small leaves,
and purple flowers, and is often
used in Southeast Asian cooking
and steeped in teas.
Dark Opal
BASIL 101 Depending on how much sun
The dog days of the plant gets, this one ranges
summer are just as from a deep eggplant purple to
synonymous with the almost black, with a sweet-spicy
peppery, lush smell of basil clovelike aroma. It’s a stunner when
as they are with sudden used fresh, like in salads where
thunderstorms and jangly its color can shine or as a garnish
ice-cream-truck jingles. for cocktails, and turns almost
This versatile, tender herb is completely black after cooking.
a member of the Lamiaceae
family, which also contains mint,
sage, and thyme. Its many
varieties range in flavor from KEEP IT FRESH
citrus to licorice, and they are For basil you plan on using up within a day or two, rinse in cold water,
equally at home in caprese salads pat dry, tightly wrap in a slightly damp paper towel, and store in a
as they are scattered over pho. plastic bag in your fridge for up to three days. For basil you’d like to
Sure, you can buy those little keep around for a little longer, take the extra time for this setup that
clamshells of basil year-round, food director Chris Morocco swears by: Trim the ends of the stems as
but late summer, when farmers you would a bouquet of flowers and then place in a tall glass or vase of
markets and CSA boxes are water. Loosely cover the basil with a plastic bag and keep it in a shaded
overflowing with it, is the best corner of your counter, changing out the water every two days. Like
time to enjoy it with abandon. flowers, your basil stalks can last anywhere from five days to over a week.
F O O D ST Y L I N G BY TA N E K A M O R R I S
Table Talk
STEMS AND ALL

Yes, you do need to pick basil leaves
from their tough stems before using—
especially when they’re mature or
of a hardier variety like Thai basil
or holy basil, both of which can be
very woody. But don’t toss them!
Those stems are still full of flavor
that is worth harnessing.
Infuse:
Stuff those basil stems into a jar
of white wine vinegar and let the
mixture infuse in your fridge for a
couple days to up to a few weeks.
Use in flavorful mignonette sauces,
pour into tart summer shrubs, and
splash onto grilled meat or fish.
Steep:
Save leftover basil stems in your freezer
to add a little extra fragrant oomph to
a pot of sinus-clearing ginger-lemon tea
(summer colds are a very real thing!) or to
pots of chicken stock.
Sizzle:
Next time you’re tempering spices or heating oil
in a pan for a stir-fry or sauté, add whole basil stems
so they can perfume the oil. It’s an easy way to harness
every bit of their fragrance; just pluck out the stems
before adding other aromatics or right before serving.
REFUSE TO
BRUISE
Basil leaves are
delicate and bruise
easily. This happens
when the cell walls
burst from the
pressure of a dull knife
(or being shoved to the
bottom of your tote
bag by a carton of eggs).
While intentionally
bruising basil has its
place—muddling
leaves into a cocktail,
for example—if you’re
looking for ribbons
of vibrant green
to garnish salads and
plates of pasta, an
exceptionally sharp
knife is key. If you’re
doubting your knives’
sharpness, you’re better
off using the basil
leaves whole or tearing
them by hand.
BEYOND PASTA BA’S BEST PESTO
Pesto pasta is an Preheat oven to 350°. Toast ½ cup pine nuts
undeniably perfect food, on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway
but there are so many through, until golden brown, 5–7 minutes.
other glorious ways to use Transfer to a food processor and let cool.
up a batch of pesto beyond Add 2 garlic cloves, finely grated, and
good old noodles. 3 oz. Parmesan, finely grated; cover
processor and pulse until finely ground,
•Spoon over pan-seared or about 1 minute. Add 6 cups basil leaves
baked fish. (from about 3 bunches) and, with the motor
•Dollop onto fried eggs. running, gradually pour in ¾ cup extra-
•Swirl into soups. virgin olive oil in a steady stream; process until
•Coat veggies like carrots, pesto is mostly smooth with some flecks of
cauliflower, or broccoli green, about 1 minute. Pulse in 1 tsp. Diamond
after roasting. Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt.
•Spread on sandwiches. D O A H E A D : Pesto can be made 1 day ahead.
•Toss with cooked grains Transfer to an airtight container and top with
like farro, basmati rice, ½" oil to prevent browning. Cover and chill.
or millet before serving. Makes about 1½ cups
14 A U G U ST 20 23
MY THREE
FAVORITE ICE CREAMS
ARE THE SAME ONE
MOREIS
MORE
ice cream
Dinner’s Served Table Talk
Hot & Fast QUICK AND EASY WEEKNIGHT MEALS
It’s a pleasure to spend a whole day grilling: Invite some pals over, fill a cooler with ice and bevs, and slowly replenish a few
plates of flame-licked meats and vegetables over the course of many hours. But weeknights are still fair game for lighting the
barbecue. One of the best things about cooking food over fire—along with char lines and delightfully smoky flavor—is that
it can happen fast. These recipes pair quick-cooking proteins with sides that also get the grill treatment, making the most of
your time outside. In case it (literally) rains on your parade, we’ve got indoor cooking instructions too. —Kendra Vaculin
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA
16 A U G U ST 20 23 F O O D ST Y L I N G BY M I C A H M O R TO N . P R O P ST Y L I N G BY T I M F E R R O .
STEAK FAJITAS WITH VEGETABLES
EASY PREP. EASY COOK. EASY CLEAN.

Tough and durable to prevent rips and tears. It’s dinner made easy.
© 2023 Reynolds Consumer Products LLC
MUSTARDY
GRILLED CABBAGE
AND KIELBASA
Wrapped in a foil packet,
seasoned small potatoes
get perfectly tender in
just under half an hour on
the grill. Dill brings some
welcome freshness to the
plate, so don’t be shy with it
R E C I P E BY K E N D R A VAC U L I N
4 S E RV I N G S
Vegetable oil (for grill)

1 lb. small red potatoes,
halved, quartered if
larger
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
½ tsp. Morton kosher salt
½ tsp. garlic powder
½ tsp. smoked paprika
4 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. extra-
virgin olive oil, divided
Freshly ground pepper
1 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
3 Tbsp. whole grain
mustard, divided
1 small head of savoy
cabbage, cut through
core into 2"–3"-thick
wedges
1 12-oz. kielbasa, quartered
crosswise, then halved
lengthwise
3 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
Torn dill (for serving)
1. Prepare a grill for medium-

high heat; oil grate with
vegetable oil. Combine
potatoes, salt, garlic powder,
paprika, and 3 Tbsp. olive
oil in a medium bowl, season
generously with pepper, and
toss to combine. Scrape out
onto a large sheet of foil;
reserve bowl. Bring foil edges
together to make a packet;
crimp to seal tightly. Place
on grate; cook potatoes until
tender, 25–28 minutes.
2. Whisk mayonnaise,
Dijon mustard, 1 Tbsp. whole
grain mustard, and 1 Tbsp. 3. Grill kielbasa, turning 5. Arrange potatoes on top of sheet; roast until just tender
olive oil in reserved bowl to halfway through, until charred kielbasa and cabbage. Drizzle enough to pierce with a knife,
combine. Rub mayonnaise in spots, about 10 minutes. reserved dressing over. Scatter 25–30 minutes. Remove from
mixture over cabbage, working Transfer to same platter. dill on top and season with oven. Heat broiler. Add
between leaves; reserve more pepper. dressed cabbage and kielbasa
bowl. Grill cabbage, turning 4. Whisk vinegar, remaining to baking sheet with potatoes;
halfway through, until tender 2 Tbsp. whole grain mustard, To make without a grill: broil, turning halfway through,
and both cut sides have deep and remaining 1 tsp. olive Preheat oven to 400°. Spread until cabbage is tender and
brown marks, 7–9 minutes. oil in reserved bowl. Set seasoned potatoes out on charred in spots and kielbasa
Transfer to a platter. dressing aside. a foil-lined rimmed baking is browned, 10–14 minutes.
18 A U G U ST 20 23
JERK SHRIMP
WITH PINEAPPLE
SALAD
Instead of a ground
spice blend, choose a jerk
seasoning paste like
Walkerswood to act as an
instant marinade for juicy
shrimp that develop smoky
char on the grill
R E C I P E BY I N É S A N G U I A N O
4  6 S E RV I N G S
¼ cup mild jerk seasoning

paste (such as
Walkerswood)
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus
more for grill
2 lb. large shrimp, peeled,
deveined
½ tsp. Morton kosher
salt, plus more
1 medium pineapple,
peeled, cored, sliced
into ½"-thick rounds
½ medium red onion, thinly
sliced
1 Persian cucumber, halved,
thinly sliced
1 cup finely chopped cilantro
⅓ cup fresh lime juice
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : Eight
8"-long metal skewers
or bamboo skewers soaked
30 minutes in water
1. Whisk jerk seasoning and

1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl.
Add shrimp and lightly season
with salt and pepper; toss to
coat. Cover and chill at least
30 minutes and up to 8 hours.
2. Meanwhile, prepare a grill

for medium heat; oil grate.
Grill pineapple slices, turning
halfway through, until tender
and there are deep brown
marks on both sides, about
4 minutes. Transfer to a cutting
board and let cool slightly.
3. Cut pineapple into ¼"

pieces; place in a large bowl.
Add red onion, cucumber,
cilantro, lime juice, and 1 tsp.
Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt; toss well. 5. Spoon pineapple salad To make without a grill: on other side. Broil, turning
onto plates with a slotted Heat broiler. Spread marinated halfway through, until shrimp
4. Thread shrimp onto skewers. spoon, then top with shrimp. shrimp out on one side of a are opaque and pineapple
Grill until opaque and lightly Spoon any juices left in bowl rimmed baking sheet (do not is blistered in spots, about
charred, 3–4 minutes per side. over shrimp. skewer); arrange pineapple 5 minutes.
2 0 A U G U ST 2023
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SignatureKitchenSuite.com
FREEFORM
KEBABS WITH
HERBY ONIONS
Turkish adana kebabs
serve as inspiration for
this easy free-form version.
A splash of water and
some vigorous mixing helps
achieve the ideal bouncy,
juicy end result
RECIPE BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC
4 S E RV I N G S
2 cups mixed torn tender

herbs (such as parsley,
cilantro, and/or dill),
divided
6 garlic cloves, finely
chopped
1 serrano chile, finely
chopped (optional)
1 Tbsp. paprika
2 tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. baking soda
3 Tbsp. sumac, divided, plus
more for sprinkling
2¼ tsp. Morton kosher
salt, divided
1 lb. ground lamb or beef
(20% fat)
1 cup plain whole-milk
Greek yogurt
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive
oil, divided, plus more
for drizzling
1 medium red onion, thinly
sliced
Lavash or large flour
tortillas and garlicky
pickles (for serving)
1. Finely chop 1 cup herbs;

transfer to a large bowl. Add
garlic, chile (if using), paprika,
cumin, baking soda, 2 Tbsp.
sumac, 2½ tsp. Diamond
Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt, and ¹⁄₃ cup cold
water and stir to combine. 3. Prepare a grill for high 5. Grill kebabs, turning once, 1 cup herbs, 1 Tbsp. sumac,
Add meat and mix vigorously heat; oil grate with vegetable until browned all over and 1 Tbsp. olive oil, and 1 tsp.
with your hands until spices are oil. Mix yogurt, 1 Tbsp. cooked through, about Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
evenly distributed and mixture olive oil, and ½ tsp. Diamond 5 minutes per side. (Look for Morton kosher salt in bowl
is smooth and beginning Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton juices pooling on the surface.) and toss to combine.
to stick to the sides of bowl. kosher salt in a small bowl Transfer to a cutting board and
to combine. Drizzle yogurt slice on a diagonal into large 8. Spoon onion salad next
2. Divide meat mixture into sauce with a little more olive pieces. Place on a platter. to kebabs. Serve with pickles
4 equal portions and shape oil, then sprinkle a large pinch and reserved yogurt sauce.
each into a 7"-long log. Pat of sumac over. Set aside. 6. Grill lavash until warmed
to flatten slightly and place on through, about 30 seconds To make without a grill:
a parchment-lined baking 4. Place red onion in a per side. Transfer to platter. Heat a dry grill pan over high.
sheet. Cover loosely with plastic medium bowl of ice water and Cook kebabs until browned
wrap; chill at least 15 minutes let soak while you grill the 7. Drain onion. Wipe out bowl all over and cooked through,
and up to 12 hours. kebabs and lavash. and combine onion, remaining about 7 minutes per side.
2 2 A U G U ST 2023
Discover over 100 delicious,
“Life’s more fun
in the deep end!”
Purina trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.

EASYTOLOVE
CHICKEN THIGHS
AND COUSCOUS
This vinegary chicken
marinade leans on
spice-cabinet stalwarts
to make a quick brine
that delivers juicy meat
with a sweet-and-tangy
finish in just 15 minutes
R E C I P E BY H A N A A S B R I N K
3 Tbsp. sugar
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. apple
cider vinegar or red
wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Diamond
Crystal or 2 tsp. Morton
kosher salt, divided,
plus more
1 Tbsp. onion powder
2 tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. paprika
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive
oil, divided, plus more
for brushing
1½ lb. skinless, boneless
chicken thighs (about 6)
1 cup Israeli couscous
2 medium ears of corn,
shucked
12 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved
1 lemon
Basil leaves (for serving)
1. Whisk sugar, ¼ cup

vinegar, and 1 Tbsp. Diamond
Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton
kosher salt in a small bowl
until sugar and salt are mostly
dissolved. Whisk in onion
powder, garlic powder,
paprika, and 1 Tbsp. olive oil.
2. Pour marinade into a large Simmer until tender, 8–10 heat or moving to a cooler 7. Slice chicken and arrange
resealable plastic bag. Add minutes. Remove lid, gently spot if charring too quickly, over salad. Top with basil and
chicken, close bag, and turn to fluff, and let sit to allow excess until cooked through and well serve with lemon wedges.
coat. Let sit at room temperature moisture to evaporate. browned, about 5 minutes
15 minutes, or chill, turning per side. Transfer to cutting To make without a grill:
occasionally, up to 12 hours. 4. Meanwhile, prepare grill board and let rest 10 minutes. Heat broiler. Place a wire rack
for medium-high heat; oil grate inside a foil-lined rimmed
3. Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbsp. with vegetable oil. Brush corn 6. Add tomatoes and Israeli baking sheet. Brush rack with
olive oil in a medium saucepan with olive oil; grill, turning couscous to corn and toss to vegetable oil. Place corn on
over medium-high. Add Israeli often, until tender and charred combine. Drizzle in remaining rack; broil until tender and
couscous and cook, stirring in spots, 7–9 minutes. Transfer 1 Tbsp. vinegar and 1 Tbsp. charred in spots, 8–10 minutes.
to coat, until golden brown, to a cutting board and let cool. olive oil, season with salt and Transfer to cutting board;
1–2 minutes. Carefully pour in Cut kernels from corn cobs pepper, and toss again. let rest. Remove chicken from
1¼ cups water and add ½ tsp. and place in a medium bowl. Transfer couscous salad to marinade, letting excess drip
Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. a platter. Finely grate lemon back into bag, and arrange,
Morton kosher salt; stir well. 5. Remove chicken from zest over, then cut lemon smoother side up, on same
Bring to a boil; immediately marinade, letting excess drip into wedges. Season salad rack. Broil, turning once, until
reduce heat to low and cover. back into bag. Grill, reducing with more pepper. golden brown, 12–14 minutes.
2 4 A U G U ST 2023
SEAL IT
WITH
A SLIDE
Sweet Spot
Mon Cherry
Under that layer of irresistible streusel hides
ribbons of smashed sour cherries
BY ZAYNAB ISSA PHOTOGRAPH BY RANA DÜZYOL
SOUR CHERRY STREUSEL Whisk flour, brown

CRUMB CAKE sugar, salt, cardamom, and
12 S E RV I N G S cinnamon in a medium bowl.
Pour butter over and gently
Whether you call it crumb mix with a fork just until crumbs
cake or coffee cake or can’t start to form (be careful not
actually talk because you to overmix). Set streusel aside.
already started eating it, there
is just nothing better than a C A K E A N D ASS E M B LYPlace a rack
plush, buttery cake topped with in middle of oven and preheat
crispy crumbly bits of goodness. to 350°. Line a 13x9" baking pan
Adding a jammy swirl of with parchment paper, leaving
sweet-tart cherries to the batter overhang on long sides. Whisk
results in a summery twist on flour, baking powder, baking
an otherwise evergreen classic. soda, and salt in a medium bowl
to combine.
C H E R RY SW I R L Beat granulated sugar and
1½ lb. fresh sour cherries, butter in the bowl of a stand
pitted, or frozen mixer fitted with the paddle
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar attachment on medium speed
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or until light and fluffy, about
¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 minutes. Add eggs one at
a time, mixing to incorporate
STREUSEL after each addition. Mix in sour
1¼ cups (156 g) all-purpose flour cream, buttermilk, and vanilla.
1 cup (200 g; packed) light (The mixture might look curdled
brown sugar at this point.) Reduce speed
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or to low and add dry ingredients;
½ tsp. Morton kosher salt mix until just combined. Using
1 tsp. ground cardamom a rubber spatula, scrape down
1 tsp. ground cinnamon sides of bowl to incorporate
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, everything well. (The batter will
melted, slightly cooled be thick.)
Scrape two thirds of the batter
C A K E A N D ASS E M B LY into prepared pan and spread
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour into an even layer. Spread
1 tsp. baking powder cherry swirl over (don’t worry
1 tsp. baking soda if it’s not perfect), then top
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or with remaining batter. Do your
½ tsp. Morton kosher salt best to spread the batter
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar over cherry swirl; it’s okay if
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted they mix and swirl a bit. Top with
butter, room temperature reserved streusel, scattering
2 large eggs smaller crumbs over first, then
1 cup sour cream topping with larger ones.
⅓ cup buttermilk Bake crumb cake until a tester
2 tsp. vanilla extract inserted into the center comes out
clean, 35–40 minutes. Transfer
C H E R RY SW I R L Bring cherries, pan to a wire rack and let cake
granulated sugar, and salt to cool in pan at least 30 minutes.
a boil in a medium saucepan. Turn cake out onto a cutting
Cook, stirring often and smashing board and cut into 12 pieces
cherries with a wooden spoon, to serve.
until cherries are softened and D O A H E A D : Cake can be baked
just coated in syrup, 15–20 1 day ahead. Let cool completely.
minutes for fresh, 25–30 minutes Store tightly wrapped at room
for frozen. Let cool. temperature.
F O O D ST Y L I N G BY P E A R L J O N E S . P R O P ST Y L I N G BY B E T H PA K R A D O O N I .
Table Talk
CAN’T FIND
SOUR CHERRIES?
You can use sweet ones!
Simply reduce the
sugar in the cherry swirl
to ¼ cup and mix in the
zest and juice of 1 lemon
after it has cooled.
A U G U ST 2023 27
IT’S
MORE THAN A
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Refrigerator Raid Table Talk
What’s in Matty Matheson’s Fridge?

In Hulu’s comedy-drama
series The Bear, he plays a
lovable restaurant handyman.
In the food world, the
41-year-old Canadian chef is
known for his irreverent (very
sweary) YouTube videos and
maximalist recipes—a vibe
he’s spun off into restaurants,
cookbooks, and clothing
lines. But when he’s home 1
with his wife and three kids
in rural Ontario, Matheson
is all about making low-key,
comforting meals. Here we’ve
mocked up a fridge featuring
his everyday staples.
AS TOLD TO ALI FRANCIS
PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA
4 6
1. FOUR POUNDS OF
BUTTER, A TUB OF CREAM
CHEESE, AND A BOTTLE
OF TABLE CREAM
We’re a dairy-heavy family. The 5
kids love making cookies, cupcakes,
3
or pancakes with my wife, Trish.
And I have Folgers coffee with cream
when I’m home. Folgers is good
when it’s creamy. Ever since we left
2
Toronto for a small town, all I want
is a real cup of joe.
2. CONGEE
I make a lot of congee, with rice,
chicken stock, ginger, and garlic
and keep the leftovers in the fridge.
The kids eat it plain (life’s too
tough; they need a little softness),
but Trish and I will add a fried
egg with chili crisp.
3. RED PEPPER JELLY

I buy red pepper jelly whenever
I’m at the store, thinking I’m going
to make baked Brie. Trish will
be like, “What are you doing?” 7 8
I’m like, “I’m going to eat it this
time!” And she’s like, “No, you’re
not.” But my mom bought it when
I was growing up—probably
because it seemed kind of fancy or
something—so it reminds me of her.
4. ORANGE JUICE
We always have Tropicana.
Our youngest daughter slams juice.
She’ll shake her empty cup at
me and be like, “Where’s my juicy?” me at home too. I’ll put it on a anytime soon. But I’ll buy Heineken soup, fajitas—literally everything.
She’s a juicy monster. We dilute mortadella sandwich, a tuna melt, or Peroni 0.0, and if it’s really Hell, I’d put onions in toothpaste.
it with water, and she knows. hot dogs, and cheeseburgers. nice out, I might have one sitting
But I’m not giving a kid goddamn in a lawn chair or at dinner. 8. THICKCUT BACON
straight juice—she’ll be running 6. NONALCOHOLIC BEER Trish makes a hot breakfast every
through the walls. At the very back of the fridge we 7. YELLOW ONIONS single weekday for the kids. And
have two Champagne bottles that Without onions I think a lot of on Sundays I make a full English
5. GIARDINIERA have probably been in there for food would be pretty s** t. They breakfast, so we buy an absurd
I’ve spent so much time in Chicago years. No idea what that’s about. create a robust depth of flavor amount of thick-cut bacon. It’s good
filming The Bear that now I need a I’ve been sober since 2013, so I’m like nothing else on planet Earth. for us. We’re strong and thick in
little jar of Marconi Giardiniera with certainly not drinking Champagne I use them in spaghetti, curry, the Matheson house.
3 0 A U G U ST 2023
Pick of the Pantry Table Talk
Canned Heat
Store-bought Thai curry paste is a pantry shortcut we can get behind—and one brand rules them all
BY RACHEL GURJAR PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA ZAPATA
You might assume that since I

cook for a living I make every-
thing from scratch. While that
may be the case most of the time
(my butter chicken recipe is
complex and uncompromising),
the truth is, after a long work-
day, flavorful shortcuts are
always welcome. Store-bought
Thai curry paste is what I turn
to most often. It’s packed with
fragrant ingredients that would
take hours to source and process
on my own yet adds depth to
dishes one speedy spoonful at
a time. Though there are plenty
of options to choose from, Mae-
sri is the only brand you’ll find
stacked in my pantry.
This Thai company offers
over 12 different curry paste
flavors, but in my opinion the
red is the most versatile. Its
blend of layered aromatics and
spices is bursting with rich,
savory character. As soon as you
open the can, you’ll smell hints
of lemongrass, galangal, and
makrut lime leaf. Unlike other
curry paste brands, Maesri
doesn’t use any citric acid or
artificial preservatives, which
tend to leave a distinct, linger-
ing aftertaste. Most important,
there’s a legit level of heat in
a small but mighty 4-ounce can.
You could, of course, simmer For safety purposes the reci- Get creative with it: Whisk the
it with coconut milk for a pes here are a 5 out of 10 when rest into mayo for a fancy aioli
better-than-average Thai curry. it comes to spiciness—you or stir it into coconut milk for GET THE GOODS
But this ruddy paste holds should feel some zip, but you a warming broth. But if you’re Your local Asian grocery
untold potential. Use it to spice won’t be running for a glass of twisted like me (I enjoy the feel- store will likely carry
up chicken salad; sub it in for milk. If you’re sensitive to heat, ing of my insides burning), Maesri products, but
tomato paste to make a bright, start with one tablespoon and throw in the whole can and you can also purchase
lively pasta sauce; or pair with increase from there. Any left- supplement with additional a stash online from the
chewy rice cakes and pork for over paste can be stored in an fresh chiles to kick up the fire usual big retailers.
a stellar weeknight stir-fry. airtight container in the fridge. several more notches.
3 2 A U G U ST 2023 I L L U ST R AT I O N BY C A R LY J E A N A N D R E W S . F O O D ST Y L I N G BY E M I L I E F O S N O C H T. P R O P ST Y L I N G BY E M M A R I N G N E SS .
®
Pick of the Pantry
RED CURRY PASTA Thinly sliced scallion Using tongs, transfer pasta mayonnaise) to form the
4 S E RV I N G S greens and lemon to sauce (a little water coming base of this bright, aromatic
wedges (for serving) along is okay). Add butter and chicken salad feels like a
This ode to pasta alla vodka ½ cup pasta cooking liquid. revelation. Here we serve it
brings in unexpected levels Cook spaghetti in a large pot Increase heat to medium; on crunchy lettuce, but it
of flavor and intensity by of boiling salted water, stirring cook, tossing vigorously and is equally good in wraps and
using red curry paste instead occasionally, until just shy of adding more pasta cooking sandwiches.
of tomato paste. Finishing al dente, about 1 minute less liquid by the ¼-cupful as
with coconut milk and lemon than package directions. needed, until sauce is silky 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
juice rather than heavy Meanwhile, heat oil in and pasta is coated and 3 Tbsp. red curry paste
cream and vodka adds extra a large Dutch oven or other glossy, about 2 minutes. (preferably Maesri)
layers of complexity to the heavy pot over medium. Remove from heat and add 1 cup plain whole-milk
clingy, rich sauce. Cook shallots and garlic, lemon juice; toss to combine. yogurt
stirring often, until softened, Divide pasta among shallow 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 lb. spaghetti about 2 minutes. Add curry bowls; top with scallions. Serve 2 tsp. honey
Kosher salt paste and cook, stirring with lemon wedges. ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil often, until paste is fragrant ¼ tsp. Morton kosher
2 medium shallots, thinly and slightly darkened and salt, plus more
sliced beginning to stick to bottom ½ medium red onion, finely
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced of pot, about 3 minutes. RED CURRY chopped
1 4-oz. can red curry paste Pour in coconut milk and CHICKEN SALAD 1 celery stalk, finely
(preferably Maesri) bring to a simmer, stirring 4 S E RV I N G S chopped
1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened and scraping up any browned 6 sweet gherkins, chopped
coconut milk bits. Cook, stirring often, While adding curry flavors to 2 cups shredded rotisserie
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, until sauce thickens enough chicken salad is nothing new, chicken with skin
cut into pieces to lightly coat a spoon, about frying curry paste and mixing ⅓ cup finely chopped
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice 3 minutes. it into yogurt (instead of cilantro
3 4 A U G U ST 2023
Table Talk
2 heads of Little Gem lettuce RED CURRY PORK 3 medium red and/or Add white and pale green
or romaine hearts, WITH RICE CAKES yellow bell peppers, scallion parts, ginger, and
leaves separated 4 S E RV I N G S cut into 1" pieces garlic; cook, stirring, until
⅓ cup coarsely chopped 1 Tbsp. fish sauce softened, about 2 minutes.
salted roasted peanuts If you’ve ever felt daunted 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice Add curry paste and cook,
by stir-fry prep, this approach vinegar stirring, until paste is fragrant
Heat oil in a small saucepan is for you. Though a few 1 tsp. honey and slightly darkened and
over medium. Cook curry items still need a chop, the ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or beginning to stick to bottom
paste, stirring often, until rice cakes give you a built-in ¼ tsp. Morton kosher of pan, about 3 minutes. Add
fragrant and slightly darkened starchy side and a sauce salt, plus more bell peppers and stir to coat.
and beginning to stick to (really just curry paste Stir in fish sauce, vinegar,
bottom of pan, about 2 minutes. thinned with water to cook Place rice cakes in a medium and honey, scraping up any
Scrape into a medium bowl; the rice cakes) all in one pan. bowl; pour in cold water to browned bits. Add rice cakes,
let cool. cover. Let sit 10 minutes. ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or
Stir yogurt, lime juice, 1 lb. sliced Korean rice cakes Drain, reserving 1 cup rice ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and
honey, and ½ tsp. Diamond 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil cake soaking liquid. reserved rice cake soaking
Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton 1 lb. ground pork Heat oil in a large skillet liquid; stir to combine. Bring to
kosher salt into curry paste. 3 scallions, white and pale with a lid over medium-high. a simmer, cover, and cook,
Add red onion, celery, green and dark green Cook pork, undisturbed, until stirring occasionally, until rice
gherkins, chicken, and cilantro parts separated, thinly browned underneath, about cakes are softened, about
to dressing and toss well sliced 5 minutes. Break up meat 5 minutes. Uncover and cook,
to coat. Taste and season with 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, with a wooden spoon and stirring, until sauce is thickened,
more salt if needed. finely chopped continue to cook, stirring about 2 minutes. Remove
Arrange lettuce leaves on 5 garlic cloves, finely and breaking up into large from heat. Taste and season
plates. Scoop about 2 Tbsp. chopped pieces, until browned all over with more salt if needed.
chicken salad onto each leaf. ¼ cup red curry paste but still pink in places, about Divide stir-fry among shallow
Top with peanuts. (preferably Maesri) 2 minutes more. bowls. Top with scallion tops.
A U G U ST 2023 35
Small Plates, Big Opinions
Mix-and-Match Meals SAUCE

Zest of 1 small lemon
1 garlic clove, finely grated
¼ cup plain whole-milk
TV host and Home Is Where the Eggs Are author Molly Yeh is big on Greek yogurt
buffets for her family of four ¼ cup tahini
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA 2 Tbsp. finely chopped mint
½ tsp. sugar
Kosher salt, freshly ground
When it comes to eating, my two daughters I want my daughters to look forward to our pepper
couldn’t be more different. Ira, who’s one, is meals together and develop enjoyable relation-
trying new foods every day and eats almost as ships with food. When I was growing up, my B U R G E R S A N D ASS E M B LY
much as my husband, Nick, and I do. I don’t family always ate around the dinner table 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
even know where it all goes! She loves but- together. Keeping that tradition alive was impor- 2 tsp. cumin seeds
ternut squash so much we had a squash-themed tant to me once I started my own family. And 4 Tbsp. (or more) extra-
party for her birthday this year. On the other I wondered if there was a way to reinvent one virgin olive oil, divided
hand, Bernie is a textbook four-year-old. One of our regulars—turkey burger night—for my 1 small white or yellow
day she’ll be obsessed with something (lately girls. Maybe it was a ’90s thing, but my mom onion, finely chopped
homemade chicken noodle soup, mac and believed ground turkey was the healthiest 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
cheese, or pot stickers). The next day she’ll option, so she put it in everything. I remember ½ tsp. ground cinnamon
hate that food and won’t want to see it anywhere dreading turkey burger night, especially because 1 large egg
near her. the meat was going to be as dry as a desert. 1 cup finely chopped cilantro
Could I make it tastier? And could I make it ½ cup panko
flexible enough for each of us? 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
While developing recipes for my Food ½ tsp. Morton kosher
Network cooking show, Girl Meets Farm, I had salt, plus more
a light bulb moment and decided to mix ground Freshly ground pepper
turkey in the same way I make my meatballs: 1 lb. ground turkey
with breadcrumbs and eggs to add texture and 4 soft sesame seed buns,
moisture. Since I love falafel, I also added those split
spices into the recipe. It became an instant Torn romaine lettuce,
favorite. Bernie loves the yummy flavors and thinly sliced red onion,
the patty is tender enough for Ira to nibble on mint leaves, and hot
with her tiny teeth. I give them the chance to sauce (for serving)
choose what they want from the spread by set-
ting out all the ingredients on the table, includ- S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A mortar
ing Greek yogurt sauce, greens, cheese, thinly and pestle or spice mill
sliced Persian cucumbers, onions, quartered
cherry tomatoes, peppers, avocados, and other SAUCE Stir lemon zest, garlic,
veggies that can either become burger toppings yogurt, tahini, lemon juice,
or a makeshift salad on the side. mint, sugar, and 1 Tbsp. water
ghters
Yeh with her husband and dau
COURTESY OF MOLLY YEH (FAMILY PHOTOGRAPH). RECIPE ADAPTED FROM HOME IS WHERE THE EGGS ARE
If you look at our plates, they’re all slight in a small bowl until smooth.
variations of one another. Bernie likes her burger Season generously with salt
plain, sometimes with cheese. Ira’s is broken and pepper. Chill until ready
up into little crumbles with a small piece of to serve.
bun. Nick will usually eat any toppings as long D O A H E A D : Yogurt sauce can
Rather than make separate meals for each as ketchup or raw onions aren’t involved. I like be made 1 day ahead. Cover
BY MOLLY YEH. PUBLISHED SEPTEMBER 27, 2022, BY WILLIAM MORROW COOKBOOKS.

of them, I keep their preferences in mind when everything piled up on mine: lots of sauce and and keep chilled.
planning for the week. Kids love to make their crunchy veggies eaten in big sloppy bites. Cre-
own decisions, so putting out ingredients ating our own versions of the same meal leaves B U R G E R S A N D ASS E M B LY
buffet-style allows everyone to craft their own everybody satisfied. And that’s a win in my book. Coarsely crush coriander
plate. First I start with a protein. Then I’ll add —As told to Dorkys Ramos seeds and cumin seeds with
in at least one thing I know will appeal to each mortar and pestle or very
person. If it’s taco night, I’ll set out ground coarsely grind in spice mill.
meat and a variety of toppings, including let- FALAFELSPICED TURKEY BURGERS Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large
tuce, sauces, and shredded cheese. When soup MAKES 4 skillet, preferably cast iron, over
is on the menu, I’ll serve it alongside a snack medium. Cook onion, stirring
board with prosciutto, bread, and cheese options Ground turkey is very lean, so Yeh set out occasionally, until softened
for Bernie, and heated veggies with soft textures to develop a turkey burger with all the and translucent, 5–7 minutes.
that Ira can eat with her hands. childhood nostalgia but none of the typical Add spice mixture, garlic,
dryness. Her solution: to treat the mix more and cinnamon; cook, stirring
like a meatball than a burger, incorporating often, until spices are fragrant,
onion for extra moisture and breadcrumbs about 1 minute. Scrape onion
T H E TA K E AWAY and egg for added structure that holds mixture into a large bowl;
Make meals that encourage customization. on to more juiciness. The burger is flavored wipe out skillet and reserve.
Setting out a variety of components will like falafel but instead of being fried, Add egg, cilantro, panko,
satisfy adventurous and picky eaters alike. it’s browned in a skillet, turning supremely and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or
crispy thanks to all the added goodness. ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt to
3 6 A U G U ST 2023 F O O D ST Y L I N G BY E M I L I E F O S N O C H T. P R O P ST Y L I N G BY E M M A R I N G N E SS .
Table Talk
onion mixture, season with on both sides with salt and instant-read thermometer Arrange burgers, buns,
pepper, and mix to combine. pepper. Working in 2 batches inserted into center should lettuce, red onion, and mint
Add turkey and gently mix and adding more oil between register 165°), about leaves on plates with yogurt
with your hands until just batches if needed, cook 4 minutes. Transfer to a sauce and hot sauce alongside
incorporated (do not overmix). patties, undisturbed, until wire rack. Wipe out skillet. and let everyone build burgers
Using damp hands, form into deeply browned underneath, Working in batches, toast as desired.
four 4"-diameter patties. about 5 minutes. Flip and buns, cut side down, in same D O A H E A D : Patties can be
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in reserved cook, undisturbed, until skillet until golden brown formed 2 hours ahead. Transfer
skillet over medium-high. deeply browned on second and crisp around edges, about to a large plate; cover
Season patties generously side and cooked through (an 3 minutes. Transfer to rack. with plastic wrap and chill.
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The Getaway Table Talk
Sun, Sea, and Souvlaki

Cyprus is a thrilling mix of Turkish, Greek, and Middle Eastern cultural influences, where
lunches are long, seafood is bountiful, and meze isn’t just food—it’s a way of life
BY YASMIN KHAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCO ARGÜELLO
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: Stunning landforms
near Aphrodite’s Rock,
Kouklia; Melanda Beach
Restaurant’s grilled
catch of the day; lagoon
views at the Palm House
A U G U ST 2023 41
The Getaway
Lying in the shimmering turquoise

waters of the Mediterranean,
Cyprus is an island filled with rugged mountains, majestic
olive groves, and orchards teeming with pomegranate and
mango trees. Its strategic position—at the nautical crossroads
of Europe, Asia, and North Africa—has given rise to a local
cuisine heavily influenced by Mediterranean and Middle
Eastern migration. Intrigued by this unique political and
culinary history, I visited the island to research the diverse
food traditions of the Turkish-Cypriot north and Greek-
Cypriot south for my cookbook Ripe Figs. To get the most from
your own trip,
plan on exploring both
sides of Cyprus, which is
easiest by car or public
transport. Dining options
are plentiful and divided
into tavernas, rustic grill
houses, catch-of-the-day
fish restaurants, and casual
cafés where you’ll want
to spend lazy afternoons in
the sun, sipping an ice-cold
frappé and taking in the
air that smells of orange
blossom and thyme.
LEFT: Lost + Found

Drinkery’s Ginderella cocktail;
RIGHT: myriad meze at
Zanettos Taverna
ZANETTOS TAVERNA
THE ESSENTIALS Meze refers to both little
THE HOT SPOTS dishes of food and the long,
Zanettos Taverna leisurely meal in which
Gelatiamo Gelateria Naturale they’re enjoyed. Get the full
Lost + Found Drinkery experience at Zanettos, which
Melanda Beach Restaurant has been serving Cypriots
Limanaki Fish Restaurant since 1938. I feasted from
Rous Restaurant 20 plates on my last visit,
Petek Pastanesi including everything from
The Palm House
fried Halloumi and souvlaki
WHEN TO VISIT skewers to grilled calves liver
Cyprus’s summer heat can be and tomato-braised snails.
exhausting, so visit during There’s no menu; servers will
the shoulder seasons: May–June deliver the parade of dishes.
or September–October. Come hungry and dig in.
WHERE TO STAY GELATIAMO GELATERIA

The Madama Residence is a NATURALE
boutique hotel in the heart of the Cyprus is one of the hottest
Old City of Nicosia, making it
perfect for sightseeing. I love the places in the Mediterranean,
Ottoman and Byzantine design so it’s no surprise that ice
features that make you feel like cream is a serious business
you’re stepping back into another here. Family-run Gelatiamo
era. In the coastal towns opt
for Airbnbs, away from the more in Nicosia is one of the best.
touristy resorts. The pistachio and chocolate-
hazelnut are exceptional, but
WHAT TO BRING HOME my favorites are the local and
A nazar (evil eye amulet) to seasonal guava or watermelon
hang on your wall and a big bottle ice creams and sorbets. Grab
of extra-virgin olive oil a cone, then stroll the Old
City’s winding backstreets.
I L L U ST R AT I O N BY S U N B A I
Table Talk
LOST + FOUND DRINKERY LIMANAKI FISH

This moodily lit cocktail RESTAURANT
lounge boasts a 50-item menu, This upmarket waterfront
with classics and original restaurant is a lovely place to
specialities such as the grab a sunset dinner. Start
Ginderella (made with gin, with a fruits de mer platter
Bénédictine, passion fruit, and follow up with a catch
and honey bitters). Distressed of the day. The meze tasting
wood tables, ’70s patterned menu is extensive and a
sofas, and old-school arcade great way to sample local
games give the space a quirky, specialities, from smoky
casual atmosphere. Go on eggplant salads and stuffed
the early side, as it gets packed courgette flowers to grilled
by 10 p.m. on weekends. octopus and fresh red mullet.
MELANDA BEACH ROUS RESTAURANT

RESTAURANT Chef Andreas Yiangoullas’s
Cyprus regularly wins awards style blends the flavors and
for the cleanest beaches cooking techniques of Middle
in Europe, and no trip is Eastern and European
complete without a visit cuisine in a minimalist yet
to a beachfront taverna. This inviting setting. The tasting
one on the southern coast menus are the best way to
overlooks stunning Avdimou sample his range. Highlights
Bay. Order seafood (the include dishes such as
grilled calamari and pan-fried eggplant with miso and
prawn saganaki are excellent) Cypriot honey, pumpkin
and don’t miss the famous risotto with scallops, and Asparagus with ragout, smoked
thick-cut, twice-fried Cypriot mango rice pudding. For eel, potato foam, and citrus
chips. Then wash it all down weekend slots, book a few hollandaise at Rous Restaurant
with a cold Keo beer. weeks in advance.
PETEK PASTANESI
After a day of roaming For the Sweet
Famagusta, a Venetian-walled (and Savory) Tooth
Cyprus is renowned for its flaky
coastal city, stop into Petek
pastries. Tick off this list as you
Pastanesi—a dreamy two-floor explore the island north to south.
Turkish-Cypriot dessert
shop. Order the sour cherry
cheesecake, baklava filled Tahinopita
with walnuts and clotted These tahini and cinnamon
cream, ashure (a sweet wheat swirls are crunchy, sweet, and
pudding), and lokum great with coffee, making them
the ideal breakfast treat.
(Turkish delight). Enjoy it
all with tea served in tulip- Borek
shaped glasses or a shot of Square, coiled, or cigarillo-
strong coffee while admiring shaped, borek are popular
the café’s charming Ottoman- street foods, most commonly
era decor. filled with feta and spinach
or minced lamb.
THE PALM HOUSE Spanakopita
The Palm House is located Packed with wild greens,
in an elegant garden spinach, and a touch of
surrounded by grapevines, feta, spanakopita makes for
flowers, herbs, and its a perfect lunch on the go.
namesake trees. Tuck into
charred kebabs, kofte, Eliopita
Savory, soft, and plump, these
stuffed dolmas, and vegetable bread rolls are flecked with
mezes such as bulgur wheat olives and fragrant herbs. Keep
salads and fresh green beans an eye out for the ones with
in spiced tomato sauce. Or chunks of Halloumi too.
head over for Sunday brunch,
when you’ll be treated to Baklava
a superb buffet of traditional Turkish-Cypriot baklava are
iconic desserts for a reason. The
pastries, sweet and savory bite-size buttery morsels are
pies, breads, charcuterie, drenched in sugar syrup and
jams, fruits, and cheeses come with pistachios, walnuts,
while taking in views of the or clotted cream.
Crunchy, pistachio-tufted baklava at Petek Pastanesi neighboring lagoon.
A U G U ST 2023 43
All on the Table
Kitchen Chemistry
I’d found a great guy. But would our appetites align?
BY ADRIENNE BRODEUR ILLUSTRATION BY CELIA JACOBS PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA
I
t was that date. The one promptly at 6 p.m. after his By day Mom, a Le Cordon Bleu– kind of eater he was. What if
where you invite the guy parents had enjoyed a single educated chef, tested recipes I was falling in love with the
over to your apartment for measured 1.5-ounce cocktail for her Boston Globe column possessor of a tepid palate and
a home-cooked meal to see if each and said grace. and her cookbooks, and in the resigning myself to a lifetime
there’s real chemistry. “What on earth does one cook evenings my brother, stepfa- of bland meals? Food was my
Tim and I had been set up for a family of eight?” I won- ther, and I gathered along the family’s love language. It was
about a month earlier. We went dered aloud. Tim smiled and counter to watch the show: how we communicated. I didn’t
on one of those no-nonsense, told me with nostalgia that Mom, a dry manhattan in one want to tamp down my voice….
low-stakes drinks dates designed Campbell’s cream of mushroom hand and some cooking imple- I needed to be heard! I tried
to determine if there was enough soup featured prominently; ment in the other, pounding, to focus on the pro side of
interest to warrant another. Twinkies and Ring Dings were mincing, whisking, and flip- the ledger: Tim was hand-
There had been, and over the Friday night’s dessert; and that ping, confident that the way to some, smart, funny, and kind.
next few weeks we met at two he was his mother’s “best eater.” all hearts was through the Did it really matter if he wasn’t
bistros and a trattoria, getting He also mentioned that his stomach. Under our adoring Anthony Bourdain?
to know each other over steak father, a germophobe, preferred gaze she’d spatchcock fowl, coax I looked at my cookbook col-
frites, pasta pomodoro, and his meats well-done. soufflés to rise, and tuck siz- lection, perched on a shelf in
other delicious but tame fare. This did not bode well. zling snails into shells under my tiny Manhattan kitchen and
At these meals I learned that My parents—divorced when clouds of garlicky butter, deliv- reached for a copy of my moth-
Tim came from a close-knit I was five and each on their ering bites into our open mouths er’s Do-Ahead Dining, the jacket
Irish Catholic family and was third marriage by the time I met like she was feeding baby birds of which featured a slab of gor-
one of six children (five of them Tim—drank with abandon, in a nest. geously rare roast beef. The
boys). His descriptions of his cooked adventurously, and But back to Tim and this table of contents was organized
childhood seemed plucked from preferred their meats bloody. nerve-racking dinner date. I by season and number served;
a 1950s handbook—a stern but “Food,” my mother always told wasn’t anxious about perform- headings included “Leisurely
amicable father, a sweet home- me, “is poetry for the mouth.” ing in the kitchen—I was my Summer Luncheon for Six” and
maker mother, and orderly In our home the kitchen was mother’s daughter after all. “Christmas Brunch for Sixteen.”
family-style dinners served where the action took place. What had me worried was what My finger slid down the list of
4 4 A U G U ST 2023 F O O D ST Y L I N G BY E M I L I E F O S N O C H T. P R O P ST Y L I N G BY E M M A R I N G N E SS .
Table Talk
recipes designed for two: sau- SHRIMP WITH FETA 2 Tbsp. double-concentrated Add garlic and cook, stirring,
téed shad roe, intimate duckling AND TOMATOES tomato paste until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
dinner, veal kidneys in wine 4 S E RV I N G S 2 lb. plum tomatoes, Add tomato paste and cook,
sauce. No, no, and no. I began chopped stirring often, until darkened
bargaining with myself: I could This recipe, adapted ¼ cup finely chopped basil in color, about 3 minutes.
handle it if Tim wasn’t a culinary from Do-Ahead Dining, by 2 tsp. Dijon mustard Add tomatoes, basil, mustard,
daredevil—an aversion to Malabar Hornblower 1 tsp. sugar and sugar; stir to combine.
innards would not be a deal- (Brodeur’s mother), is a riff ½ cup dry white wine Cook, stirring occasionally,
breaker—but a baseline appre- on the Greek classic shrimp 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice until tomatoes are beginning
ciation of excellent food was saganaki. It features shrimp ¼ cup finely chopped to fall apart and juices have
nonnegotiable. Then my eyes folded into a fresh tomato parsley, plus more for thickened, 12–15 minutes.
landed on a long-forgotten sauce brightened with white serving Pour in wine and lemon
favorite, “Greek-Style Shrimp wine, then topped with feta 2 oz. feta, crumbled juice and cook, stirring
for Two.” It was the perfect dish, and broiled for a bold finish. Toasted country-style occasionally, until sauce is
chock-full of robust and delec- The unexpected additions bread (for serving) thickened, about 5 minutes;
table ingredients like fresh of Dijon mustard, sugar, and season with salt and pepper.
tomatoes, tangy feta, piquant lemon juice highlight the Heat oil in a large ovenproof Return shrimp along with any
basil, and sweet shrimp—sophis- sweetness of the tomatoes. skillet over medium-high. accumulated juices to skillet;
ticated yet not too challenging. Add shrimp in a single layer; stir in ¼ cup parsley. Remove
Two evenings later Tim sat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil season with salt and pepper. from heat and scatter feta over.
on an antique stool in my galley 1 lb. large shrimp, peeled, Cook until shrimp are bright Heat broiler. Transfer skillet
kitchen, drinking a glass of deveined, patted dry pink and nearly cooked to oven; broil until cheese is
white wine while I channeled Kosher salt, freshly ground through, about 1 minute per browned in spots and shrimp
my mother bantering and show- pepper side. Using a slotted spoon, is cooked through, about
ing off my knife skills, pressing 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter transfer shrimp to a plate. 4 minutes. Taste and season
the tip-end down while rapid- 1 medium onion, finely Reduce heat to medium with more salt if needed.
fire rocking the blade across chopped and melt butter in same skillet. Divide among shallow
a garnish of parsley. To my 5 garlic cloves, finely Cook onion, stirring often, until bowls; top with more parsley.
delight, when I opened the oven chopped translucent, about 3 minutes. Serve with toast.
door, releasing a puff of intox-
icating aromas, Tim closed his
eyes and inhaled audibly, giv-
ing the bouquet the attention
a miracle deserved.
Over his shoulder in the next
room, a beautifully set table
awaited us, candles flickering.
But I couldn’t wait. I spooned
out a pink shrimp topped with
melted feta and sprinkled it with
freshly chopped parsley. Tim’s
eyes were still shut. “Open up,”
I said, blowing on the morsel.
Our first, albeit tiny, moment
of vulnerability and trust.
Tim did as I asked, smiling
in anticipation, and I popped
the bite into his mouth. He
moaned with pleasure, a sound
so appreciative that it conveyed
all I needed to know in terms
of our culinary compatibility.
Without opening his eyes, he
reached for my hand, turned
it over and kissed the inside of
my wrist. “This is perfection.”
And it was.
ADRIENNE BRODEUR
is the author of the national
bestseller Wild Game
and executive director of
Aspen Words. Her novel
Little Monsters is out now.
Food styling by Shuai Wang Prop styling by Megan Forbes and Christina Hussey
RECIPES BY PHOTOGRAPHS BY
SHUAI WANG ISA ZAPATA
Chef Shuai Wang grew up in Beijing and Flushing, Queens, but found his
culinary voice in Charleston, South Carolina. He and Corrie, his business
partner and wife, have earned a loyal following for their playful Chi-
nese American restaurant Jackrabbit Filly and the hotly anticipated
King BBQ. Here the Wangs hit the grill with a sizzling menu
showcasing the breadth of Shuai’s many influences,
from esquites-inspired tiger salad to char-siu-
style pork chops and the whole world
in between.
46
MOUTHWATERING CHARRED Toss kale, beets, and vegetable oil 2 tsp. low-sodium soy sauce
BEETS WITH RICOTTA in a large bowl with your hands until well 2 tsp. oil from a jar of chili crisp
6 S E RV I N G S coated. Grill kale and beets, turning (preferably Lao Gan Ma)
occasionally, until kale is crisp and mostly 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
Sichuanese mouthwatering sauce, charred and beets are well charred all 2 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
most commonly paired with poached over, about 5 minutes for kale, 12–15 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp.
chicken, is characterized by its tart and minutes for beets. Transfer vegetables to Morton kosher salt, plus more
spicy flavor. It also pairs exceptionally a cutting board; let sit until cool enough to 2 large ears of corn, husked
well with untraditional ingredients like handle. Cut beets into quarters. Cut kale 1 ripe avocado, cut into large pieces
sweet and smoky grilled beets. Start into large pieces. Add beets to reserved ½ English hothouse cucumber, halved
with store-bought cooked beets to save dressing; toss to coat. Let sit 20 minutes. lengthwise, seeds removed, halves
prep time and use Tuscan kale instead Just before serving, drizzle bread sliced crosswise on a diagonal
of curly, which tends to be too chewy. lightly with olive oil. Grill, turning often, ¼" thick
until golden brown and toasted, about 1 small shallot, halved through root
1 garlic clove, finely grated 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. end, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce Spread ricotta on a platter. Add kale to ½ bunch cilantro, tough stems removed
2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar bowl with beets; toss to combine. Spoon 2 Tbsp. crumbled queso fresco or
2 tsp. sugar mixture over ricotta and tuck mozzarella Cotija cheese
2 tsp. chili crisp (preferably Lao Gan around beets. Drizzle a spoonful of chili
Ma), plus oil from jar for serving crisp oil over. Serve with grilled bread. Toast sesame seeds in a dry small
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. skillet over medium heat, shaking pan
Morton kosher salt, plus more constantly, until deep golden brown and
½ bunch Tuscan kale, stems and ribs fragrant, about 5 minutes; transfer to a
removed GRILLED CORN TIGER SALAD large shallow bowl. Add garlic, lime juice,
1 lb. prepared unseasoned cooked 6 S E RV I N G S vegetable oil, soy sauce, chili crisp oil,
beets, drained sesame oil, vinegar, and 1½ tsp. Diamond
¼ cup vegetable oil Chinese tiger salad, a raw, refreshing Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt and
Sliced sourdough bread or focaccia side most often made with cilantro, stir vigorously until salt is dissolved. Set
(for serving) cucumbers, green onions, and chiles, dressing aside.
Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) is often served to cut the heat of spicy Prepare a grill for medium-high heat.
8 oz. fresh ricotta dishes. Wang’s version incorporates Grill corn, turning often, until lightly
4 oz. fresh mozzarella, torn into bite- grilled corn, avocado, and salty cheese, charred all over and tender, 8–10 minutes.
size pieces elements of Mexican esquites, for a Transfer corn to a cutting board and let sit
globe-trotting summer salad packed until cool enough to handle. Slice kernels
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Stir with flavor. from cobs (you should have about 2 cups).
garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, 2 tsp. Add corn, avocado, cucumber, shallot,
chili crisp, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds and half of cilantro to reserved dressing;
or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium 3 garlic cloves, finely grated toss gently to combine. Taste salad and
bowl until sugar and salt are dissolved. ½ cup fresh lime juice season with more salt if needed. Top with
Set dressing aside. 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil queso fresco and remaining cilantro.
M O U T H WAT E R I N G
CHARRED BEETS WITH
R I C OT TA
GRILLED CORN
TIGER SAL AD
49
Feasting with friends. OPPOSITE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
Bottle service Lowcountry style; the
Wangs at work; a dockside toast;
smoke-kissed summer squash
52
GRILLED SQUASH WITH
NUOC CHAM CHIMICHURRI
6 S E RV I N G S
Wang loves the way that summer

squash can be charred to a crisp
on the outside while remaining
tender and juicy inside. Carefully
scoring the cut sides of the squash
before grilling offers plenty of nooks
for the sauce to settle in. Look
for firm, slender, smallish squash
as they tend to be less watery.
2½ lb. zucchini and/or other

summer squash (about
12 small)
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, divided,
plus more
½ bunch parsley, tough stems
removed
1 shallot, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove
1 jalapeño, coarsely chopped
¼ cup fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. fish sauce (preferably
Red Boat)
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 cup (tightly packed) mint leaves,
plus more for serving
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat.

Cut each squash in half lengthwise,
then score cut sides in a ¼" crosshatch
pattern, going as deep as possible
without cutting into the skin. Toss
squash, vegetable oil, and 1 tsp.
Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt in a large baking dish
or on a rimmed baking sheet. Let sit
at least 15 and up to 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, pulse parsley, shallot,
garlic, jalapeño, lime juice, fish
sauce, sugar, 1 cup mint, and ½ tsp.
Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton
kosher salt in a food processor until
finely chopped. Scrape into a
medium bowl, pour in olive oil, and
stir to incorporate. Taste chimichurri
and season with more salt if needed.
Grill squash, cut sides down, until
well charred underneath, 10–15
minutes. Transfer to a cutting board
and let sit until cool enough to
handle. Slice squash crosswise on
a diagonal into 3 or 4 pieces.
Spread about ½ cup chimichurri
GRILLED SQUASH over a platter. Arrange squash
WITH NUOC CHAM on top and drizzle more sauce over.
CHIMICHURRI Top with some mint leaves. Serve
remaining chimichurri on the side
if desired.
D O A H E A D : Chimichurri can be
made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
Oil will solidify; bring to room
temperature before using.
53
GRILL THE COVER
CHINESE BARBECUE
PORK CHOPS
6 S E RV I N G S
Eaten together with the pickled

radishes, these chops are at once sweet,
savory, crisp, and sharp. They accurately
replicate the flavor of the char siu pork
you find hanging in Chinese barbecue
restaurants without the need for a
vertical rotisserie or special oven. Stick
with bone-in pork rib chops here—
they tend to be more well marbled and
stay juicier than sirloin chops.
PICKLED RADISHES
½ cup distilled white vinegar
2 Tbsp. sugar
¼ tsp. black peppercorns
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 garlic clove, finely grated
8 oz. mixed radishes (such as red
and/or watermelon and/or purple
daikon), trimmed, thinly sliced
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
P O R K A N D ASS E M B LY
½ cup hoisin sauce
2 Tbsp. ketchup
2 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar CHINESE BARBECUE
2 tsp. five-spice powder PORK CHOPS
2 tsp. oyster sauce
2 tsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. finely grated peeled ginger
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil Prepare a grill for high heat; oil grate. 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup
¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for grill Remove pork chops from bowl and scrape 1 Tbsp. sugar
6 ⅓"–¼" bone-in pork rib chops off excess marinade; discard marinade. 2 tsp. white or yellow miso
(2–3 lb.) Grill, turning often, until deeply browned
Flaky sea salt and an instant-read thermometer inserted C A K E A N D ASS E M B LY
Red leaf or romaine lettuce leaves near the bone of each registers 140° 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, slightly
(for serving) (internal temperature should climb to 145° cooled, plus more for pan
as they rest), 8–12 minutes. Transfer to 2 large eggs
PICKLED RADISHES Heat vinegar, sugar, a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. 1¼ cups (250 g) sugar
peppercorns, and red pepper flakes in Thinly slice meat from bone; transfer to 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
a small saucepan, stirring, until sugar is a platter and sprinkle with sea salt. Serve Morton kosher salt
dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from with pickled radishes and lettuce. 1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut
heat, add garlic, and let brine cool. milk, well shaken, heated slightly if
Toss radishes and salt in a small bowl; fat is solid
let sit until softened and releasing liquid, 2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or vanilla
10–30 minutes; drain liquid. MISO AND MAPLE extract
Pour brine over radishes. Cover and PECANBUTTER MOCHI CAKE 1²⁄₃ cups (254 g) mochiko (sweet rice
chill at least 8 hours before using. 10  12 S E RV I N G S flour; such as Koda Farms)
D O A H E A D : Radishes can be pickled 1 tsp. baking powder
1 week ahead. Keep chilled. Mochi is Wang’s favorite dessert and Vanilla ice cream (for serving)
reminds him of Chinese holidays with
P O R K A N D ASS E M B LY Stir hoisin sauce, his family. His second-favorite? Classic P E C A N S Place a rack in middle of oven;
ketchup, brown sugar, five-spice powder, Southern pecan pie. This Hawaiian- preheat to 350°. Lightly oil a rimmed
oyster sauce, soy sauce, ginger, sesame style butter mochi cake combines the baking sheet. Using your hands, toss
oil, and ¼ cup vegetable oil in a large best qualities of both. It has all the pecans, maple syrup, sugar, and miso in
bowl to combine. nutty richness you expect from pecan a medium bowl until well coated. Spread
Make shallow cuts along fatty, curved pie filing, plus any cloying sweetness out on prepared baking sheet; bake until
edge of each pork chop to prevent them gets tempered by the miso. fragrant and matte looking, 6–8 minutes
from curling as they cook. Add chops to (nuts won’t be fully toasted). Let cool.
marinade and toss to coat. Cover with PECANS
a lid or plate and chill at least 2 hours or, Vegetable oil (for baking sheet) Lightly butter a
C A K E A N D A S S E M B LY
preferably, up to 12 hours. Let sit at room 8 oz. raw pecans, coarsely chopped 9"-diameter cake pan and line bottom
temperature 30 minutes before grilling. (about 2 cups) with a parchment paper round. Vigorously
54
MISO AND MAPLE PECAN
BUT TER MOCHI CAKE
whisk eggs, sugar, and salt in a large Toss pecans to break up any clumps minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let
bowl until smooth. Add coconut milk, and scatter evenly over batter, going cake cool in pan 15 minutes. Turn cake
vanilla bean paste, and 6 Tbsp. butter all the way to the edges (it may seem like out onto rack; peel away parchment and
and whisk well. Add mochiko and baking a lot). Bake cake until sides start to pull discard. Carefully turn cake right side up
powder; whisk vigorously until combined away from pan, top is golden brown, and and let cool completely (at least 1 hour).
and batter is smooth and thick. Scrape a tester inserted into the center comes out To serve, slice cake and top with
batter into prepared pan. clean (some pecans will sink), 50–55 scoops of ice cream.
55
Farmers
Market
Challenge
Five-Ingredient Recipes to
Make the Most of Summer’s
Star Produce
RECIPES BY
RACHEL GURJAR AND
ZAYNAB ISSA
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
ISA ZAPATA
Food Styling by
Sean Dooley
Prop Styling by
Marina Bevilacqua
56
AT THE FARMERS MARKET,
August feels like the big game, the
Oscars, the proud wave from the gold
medal podium—the moment when
the spotlight shines brightest. There
are more varieties of squash and
shades of tomato than you
thought possible and enough
bounty to ensure your
tote bags are overflow-
ing. That’s where we
come in. What follows
are five-ingredient rec-
ipes (beyond the basic
pantry staples) strategically
designed to bring out the
best in your produce with the
least amount of effort. They’re
simple and uncomplicated on
purpose; when you’ve got berries
this sweet and peaches this juicy,
you don’t need to overthink things.
Plus, we’re sharing our best tips for
embracing abundance and preventing
food waste for those times when you
bought just a little too much (it hap-
pens). So go big and go home—we’ll
show how to make the most of your
haul. —Kelsey Youngman
LEMONY
ZUCCHINI WITH
SOUR CREAM GRILLED PORK WITH SPICY
AND DILL RASPBERRY CHIMICHURRI
4 S E RV I N G S
We love chimichurri, the Argentine

condiment, for its lush green color
and nubby, herbaceous texture. It’s
what we had in mind when we created
the sauce for this grilled pork recipe,
which adds a similar burst of flavor to
any dish—using raspberries instead
of garlic and herbs. Stay with us: The
berries easily smash to make a coarse,
saucy base without any knife work and
have an inherent refreshing tartness
that meshes seamlessly with bright lime
juice and spicy Calabrian chiles.

2 1½"-thick bone-in pork rib chops
(about 1½ lb.)
1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
for drizzling
2 cups fresh raspberries (about 1 pint)
½ medium shallot, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. crushed Calabrian chiles
LEMONY ZUCCHINI WITH Mix sour cream, garlic, 2 Tbsp. finely 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
SOUR CREAM AND DILL chopped dill, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal 1½ tsp. sugar
2  4 S E RV I N G S or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small
bowl until well combined; spread evenly Prepare a grill for medium-high heat;
Cutting zucchini into chunky pieces over a platter and set aside. oil grate with vegetable oil. Season pork
and giving it a hard sear develops lots Whisk lemon zest and juice, 1 Tbsp oil, chops all over with salt, then drizzle
of exterior texture and deep color and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. olive oil on both sides and rub into meat
while minimizing sogginess. Tossing Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl to to evenly coat. Let sit while you make the
in some fresh dill at the end gives a combine. Set vinaigrette aside. raspberry chimichurri.
bright herbal finish—a handful of basil Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a Mash raspberries in a small bowl
leaves instead would also be excellent. large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. with a fork until there are no large pieces
Arrange zucchini in a single layer and left. Add shallot, chiles, lime juice, sugar,
1 cup sour cream cook, undisturbed, until deep golden ¼ cup olive oil, and 1½ tsp. Diamond
2 garlic cloves, finely grated brown underneath, about 5 minutes. Turn Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt and
2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill, plus over and cook until deep golden brown mix well; set raspberry chimichurri aside.
¼ cup coarsely chopped dill; on the other side, about 5 minutes. Grill pork chops, turning occasionally,
plus torn sprigs for serving Add ¼ cup coarsely chopped dill until deeply browned and an instant-read
2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. to pan, season with kosher salt and thermometer inserted near the bone
Morton kosher salt, divided, pepper, and toss gently until combined registers 140° (internal temperature
plus more and dill is wilted. Transfer zucchini mixture should climb to 145° as the chops rest),
Zest and juice of 1 lemon to reserved vinaigrette and toss to coat. 9–12 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Using a large slotted spoon, transfer and let rest 5 minutes.
3 large zucchini (about 1½ lb.), sliced zucchini mixture to reserved platter with To serve, carve meat away from pork
into 1"-thick rounds dill sour cream. Scatter some dill sprigs chop bones and slice against the grain;
Freshly ground pepper over, sprinkle with sea salt, and season arrange on a platter. Spoon reserved
Flaky sea salt with pepper. raspberry chimichurri over.
Bought a Little Extra?
ZUCCHINI RASPBERRIES PLUMS

To freeze your extra zucchini Place raspberries in a jar, cover with booze We love chef and cookbook author Abra
without damaging its texture, cook it of choice. Seal and let sit for one week. Berens’s salted plums: Scrub, quarter,
first. Sauté thin slices in olive oil until Strain and store berries in the fridge, and pit plums. Cover them with salt in
golden brown and falling apart. Let cool and reserve booze at room temperature. a glass jar. Tightly close jar and shake
before freezing. It’s the perfect addition Combine ½ cup spiked berries and each day for about a week (a brine will
to summer soups and sauces, and 1 shot infused booze in a collins glass form). Keep chilled up to 1 month.
there’s no thawing required. filled with ice and top with seltzer. To serve, rinse then thinly slice plums.
GRILLED PORK WITH SPICY
RASPBERRY CHIMICHURRI
CA JUN CHICKEN
WITH PEACH SALSA
CAJUN CHICKEN WITH
PEACH SALSA
Flavoring chicken thighs with a simple,

aromatic, and smoky Cajun seasoning,
then searing them, makes an ideal
canvas for this sweet-and-sour peach
salsa. Taste your Cajun seasoning and
adjust the amount of salt you use in
this recipe accordingly; some brands are
more heavily seasoned than others.
1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs

(about 6)
2 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning
1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, divided
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 ripe peaches, peeled, cut into ½"
pieces
Zest and juice of 1 lime
1 cup cilantro leaves with tender stems
Toss chicken thighs with Cajun seasoning,

1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium
bowl to coat. STEAK WITH
Toss peaches and remaining ½ tsp. PRESERVEDLEMON
Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher M A R I N AT E D
salt in a mesh sieve set inside another TO M ATO E S
medium bowl to combine; set aside.
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large
skillet over medium. Cook chicken in
a single layer, turning halfway through, two in no time. The rich, fatty meat Meanwhile, whisk chiles, soy sauce,
until charred in spots and cooked through, is just the right counterpoint to the preserved lemon, brine, and 1 Tbsp. oil in
12–16 minutes. Transfer to a platter. punchy salad. Returning to this recipe a large bowl to combine. Add tomatoes
Discard (or drink; it’s delicious!) off-season? Opt for cherry tomatoes and toss to coat. Chill tomato mixture until
any juice in bowl. Transfer peaches to instead of heirloom. ready to use.
bowl and add lime zest and juice and Heat a dry large cast-iron skillet
cilantro and toss gently to combine. Taste 1 1-lb. New York strip steak (1"–1¼" over medium-high until very hot. Drizzle
peach salsa and season with more salt thick) remaining 1 Tbsp. oil over steak; rub all
if needed. Spoon over chicken thighs. Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper over to coat evenly. Cook, turning every
2 red Thai chiles or 1 red Fresno or 2 minutes or so, until deeply browned
jalapeño chile, halved and an instant-read thermometer inserted
2 Tbsp. soy sauce into the thickest part registers 120°,
STEAK WITH PRESERVED 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced preserved lemon, 8–10 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer
LEMONMARINATED TOMATOES plus 2 tsp. brine to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes.
2 S E RV I N G S 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Slice steak against the grain ¼" thick.
2 lb. assorted heirloom tomatoes, Add steak to marinated tomato mixture and
Toss peak heirloom tomatoes in a halved, quartered if large toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
simple preserved lemon, soy sauce, and steak and tomatoes to a platter and drizzle
chile marinade while you sear off a Season steak all over with salt and pepper some of the marinade remaining in bowl
nice well-marbled steak for a dinner for and let sit 15 minutes. over (discard the rest). Season with pepper.
Bought a Little Extra?
PEACHES TOMATOES STRAWBERRIES

Make quick and easy crisps: Pit and slice After just a few minutes on the grill Transform strawberries into an
peaches (no need to peel), nestle slices tomatoes develop a welcome char irresistible topping: Toss sliced
into individual ramekins. Sprinkle them and concentrated sweetness that’s hard strawberries with sugar (try coconut or
with sugar, top with a handful to beat. Smash some directly onto maple sugars to add another layer of
of your favorite granola tossed with a garlic-rubbed toast for a riff on pan con flavor) and let sit for about 30 minutes.
teaspoon of oil, and bake at 350° for tomate or use them as a smoky addition to Serve sweet and saucy macerated berries
20–30 minutes until bubbly. a late-summer Bloody Mary. over buttery pancakes or fudgy brownies.
JAMMY CUMIN
PLUMS AND
F E TA SA L A D SAUCE
1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled, halved
½ cup (50 g) sugar
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
S T R A W B E R R I E S A N D ASS E M B LY
1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled,
quartered
1 Tbsp. sugar
½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
¼ tsp. vanilla extract
MERINGUE Place a rack in middle of

oven; preheat to 275°. Place a sheet of
parchment on a 13x9" rimmed baking
sheet. Turn a 10"-diameter bowl over
and draw a circle around the border; turn
parchment over. Beat egg whites and
salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the whisk attachment over low speed
until frothy, 2–3 minutes. Increase speed
to medium and, with motor running, add
sugar 1 Tbsp. at a time, beating until
incorporated after each addition before
adding more, about 5 minutes. Increase
speed to high and add cornstarch and
lemon juice and beat until sugar is
dissolved, stiff peaks form, and meringue
is glossy, 3–4 minutes. (Rub a little
meringue between your fingers; if you
feel sugar granules, keep beating until
dissolved.)
JAMMY CUMIN PLUMS are starting to fall apart and liquid is thick Spread meringue out inside circle on
AND FETA SALAD enough to coat a spoon, about 8 minutes. prepared baking sheet, swirling to create a
4 S E RV I N G S Let plums cool slightly. depression in the center to hold the berries,
Spoon jammy plums onto a platter. to make a 10" round about 1" thick in the
Plums rarely get the attention that Break feta into large pieces and arrange center and 3" thick at the edges.
peaches and other show-offy summer over and around. Top with thyme leaves Reduce oven heat to 200°. Bake
fruits do, but they should. They come in and season with pepper. Serve with toast. meringue until firm to the touch, about
a wide range of colors and shapes and 3 hours. Turn off oven and prop open
are just as complex and tasty cooked as door with a wooden spoon. Let meringue
they are raw. Here they are simmered cool in oven, about 2 hours.
with fragrant cumin for a subtly savory THE STRAWBERRIEST PAVLOVA D O A H E A D : Meringue can be made
turn and to balance the assertiveness 4 S E RV I N G S 1 day ahead. Store tightly wrapped at
of feta. These jammy plums are also room temperature.
great spooned over yogurt or vanilla Meringue desserts like pavlova can
ice cream (you can leave out the spices seem daunting, but meringue isn’t as S A U C E Bring strawberries, sugar, lemon
if you want to go all sweet)—try it! fickle as you may believe. Some tips: juice, and salt to a boil in a large
Use a bone-dry bowl and whisk when saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer until
4 large red plums (about 1 lb.), whipping, and make sure you beat berries begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
cut into ½"-thick wedges until stiff peaks form. Keeping the oven Let sauce cool slightly, then transfer to a
⅓ cup sugar door closed while baking to maintain blender and blend until smooth. Transfer
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. a consistent temperature is also key. to an airtight container; cover and chill
Morton kosher salt You’ve got this! And if you want to until ready to use.
½ tsp. cumin seeds spread a layer of whipped cream over D O A H E A D : Sauce can be made 1 day
2 4-oz. feta slabs your meringue before adding the ahead. Keep chilled.
½ tsp. thyme leaves berries, we definitely won’t stop you.
Freshly ground pepper Toss
S T R A W B E R R I E S A N D A S S E M B LY
1 baguette, sliced on a diagonal MERINGUE strawberries, sugar, lemon zest and juice,
1" thick, drizzled with extra-virgin 6 large egg whites, room temperature salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Cover
olive oil, toasted ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. and chill 15 minutes.
Morton kosher salt Spoon 1 cup sauce over meringue
Bring plums, sugar, salt, cumin seeds, and 1 cup (200 g) sugar (save any remaining sauce for another
¼ cup water to a simmer in a medium 1 Tbsp. sifted cornstarch use, like pouring over waffles); mound
saucepan. Cook until some plum wedges 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice macerated strawberries in the center.
62
T H E S T R AW B E R R I E S T
P AV L O VA
THE
Photographs by ISA ZAPATA
OF CO
APPLI
64
JOY
Food styling by JUDY KIM
OKING WITH
Prop styling by GÖZDE EKER
IA NCE
P L S
P
A
20
23
ANCES
P
eople love to be opinionated about
appliances. Some see the Instant Pot
and air fryers as ways to get dinner
on the table better and faster; others consider
them expensive, wasteful, and unnecessary.
Well, you couldn’t pull the plugs from our
kitchens if you tried. Listen in on the chatter
before a staff meeting and you’ll hear editors
passionately extolling the virtues of their
favorite electric kettle. Food processors sit
right alongside knives and cutting boards
at our test kitchen stations. But that doesn’t
mean we love just any appliance—each piece
of equipment needs to earn its precious coun-
tertop real estate. If it doesn’t make cooking
easier, more joyful, and more delicious, we
don’t want it. So we’re sharing our food edi-
tors’ highly opinionated picks for the appli-
ances they couldn’t live without and the
recipes that show off their full potential. We’ll
also play matchmaker (everyone’s got a soul-
mate appliance!), speculate on when AI will
come for your crisper drawer, and suggest a
few gadgets you definitely don’t need—but
might want anyway. —Kelsey Youngman
A Toaster With a View

BY EMMA L APERRUQUE
There are a lot of fancy toasters out

there ready to set you back hundreds of
dollars with their sleek designs and nifty
features. But my favorite is the Dash
Clear View Toaster ($50; amazon.com),
THE WAFFLE MAKER
BY CHRIS MOROCCO
and it comes with the niftiest feature of all:
a see-through window that lets you
watch your toast, well, toast. It’s hard to You either have a waffle iron or you don’t but should get one. Those are the two
overstate how mesmerizing and soothing main conditions of life. You aren’t going to hack your way into making waffles
this is, like lying in a hammock and without one. There isn’t a silicone mold you can bake them in (and if there is,
staring at the clouds. And it’s practical that’s just sick), and whatever work-around you might devise, I can guarantee
too. I can get my everything bagel just buying a waffle iron would be so much simpler. I get it. Didn’t Henry David
exactly how I like it: golden brown on the Thoreau say something about being wary of pursuits that required new clothes?
edge of burnt, crispy but not crunchy. That is my life outlook when it comes to buying kitchen equipment. But unlike
The extra-wide slot, easy-to-clean crumb most countertop kitchen appliances that simply mirror the
tray, and precise dial don’t hurt either. All-Clad function of a tool you probably already own (rice cookers
But it’s the silly little window that makes Belgian Waffle are wonderful, but you can also just make rice in a pot), a
this budget toaster the most valuable Maker ($200; waffle maker is a one-way ticket to making a singular form
appliance in my kitchen. Just don’t tell amazon.com) of breakfast bliss. It does one thing spectacularly well that
my Vitamix, all right? I couldn’t do otherwise, and that’s good enough for me.
66
A WAFFLE WORTH WAITING FOR 1 tsp. baking powder buttermilk; mix gently until just combined
4 S E RV I N G S 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. and no large pockets of dry flour remain
Morton kosher salt (batter should be lumpy). Cover and let sit
A yeasted waffle is a better waffle. 1 tsp. instant yeast at room temperature until nearly doubled
Those that are leavened only by baking ½ tsp. baking soda in volume and some bubbles appear
soda or baking powder are just pancakes 2 large eggs around edges of bowl, about 2 hours,
in disguise. The real thing should be 1½ cups buttermilk or, preferably, chill 12 hours.
airy with an outer shell that is crunchy Vegetable oil (for waffle iron) Heat waffle iron on medium-high;
like toast and perfumed like sweet 4 fried eggs lightly brush with oil. Pour enough batter
eggy heaven. An overnight rest yields Sliced avocado, pickled onion, and/ onto iron to cover surface (about ½ cup)
the best texture, but 2 hours is still or chili crisp (for serving) and cook until waffles are golden brown
great. While we have a soft spot for and cooked through, about 5 minutes.
savory toppings, these waffles are just Melt butter in a small saucepan over (Keep waffles warm on a baking sheet in
as good with butter and maple syrup. medium heat. Remove from heat and a 200° oven if desired.) Repeat with
whisk in ¹⁄₃ cup water. remaining batter, brushing iron with more
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, oil as needed.
2½ cups (313 g) all-purpose flour salt, yeast, and baking soda in a large Top waffles with fried eggs, followed
2 Tbsp. sugar bowl. Add butter mixture, eggs, and by avocado, onion, and/or chili crisp.
67
THE VITAMIX
BY HANA ASBRINK
The Vitamix wholly deserves its well-earned reputation as

the industry standard in both restaurant and, increasingly,
home kitchens. The high-powered blender has topped con-
sumers’ lists across the board (including our own), and at
this point, even many novice cooks could recognize it in a
lineup of its competitors. We all know it’s aces when it comes
to blending and puréeing everything to its smoothest pos-
sible state of existence. Cold smoothies, hot soups (see below),
sauces, and marinades are their very best selves when whirred
up in a Vitamix—we accept this as a matter of course by
now. But what if I told you that I occasionally ask my Vita-
mix to go off duty and whiz up things like *furtively glances*
pie crusts? Yes, I’m pretty sure the manufacturer would
Rice for Two
wince at my admission and not recommend you do this, BY KENDRA VACULIN
but I’ll tell you what, it works (and well!) when you’re
crunched for time or feel too lazy to make the dough by
hand. I drop all the dry ingredients in the canister, hit pulse
to aerate, add cubes of cold butter, My partner and I bought
Vitamix 5200 then pulse-pulse-pulse until it’s all our one-button, three-cup
($480; vitamix just combined. The dough comes Zojirushi NHS-06BA
.com) together in a ball in no time. A ver- Rice Cooker ($50; macys
satile beast, that beautiful blender is. .com) with the Macy’s
gift card my mom sent us
when we moved in
together in 2016. While it
felt perfunctory at the
ACTUALLYVEGAN CREAM OF TOMATO time, this little rice robot
SOUP has turned out to be the
4 S E RV I N G S single most important
purchase of our entire
A Vitamix blender generates so much heat when relationship. I think it’s
running at peak speed that it can cook soup all more valuable to us than
on its own. Here we use its unmatched power first our wedding rings. Is that
to create a near-instant cashew cream and then to crazy to say? It’s compact
blitz up a silky tomato soup cooked—you guessed it— enough to fit in our
entirely in the blender, no stove involved. small apartment kitchen
but makes more than
2 garlic cloves enough rice for our needs
1 cup raw cashews (i.e., three cups dry,
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling nearly nine cups cooked).
1 tsp. plus 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 2¼ tsp. It produces perfect rice
Morton kosher salt, divided; plus more of all varieties every time.
1 28-oz. can crushed tomatoes Sure, it doesn’t have the
3 Tbsp. red curry paste myriad features of some
2 Tbsp. (or more) sugar of the more complicated
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Zojirushi models, but
I don’t mind; with just the
Carefully blend garlic, cashews, ¼ cup oil, 1 tsp. one button, it does just
Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and the one thing reliably well
1 cup boiling water in blender on low speed until and faster than its bigger
combined. Increase speed to high and blend until very brethren. And it is still
smooth, about 2 minutes. Measure out ½ cup cashew going strong after seven
cream and set aside for serving. years of near-constant
Add tomatoes, curry paste, sugar, and 1 Tbsp. use and one particularly
Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt to harrowing drop on the
remaining cashew cream in blender. Pour in 1½ cups sidewalk. Even dinged-up
room-temperature water and blend on low speed and dented, it’s the
until combined. Increase speed to high and blend until $50 workhorse of our
soup is steaming and very smooth, 6–8 minutes. Add kitchen, and I can’t
lemon juice and blend on low speed until combined and imagine life without it.
soup is less frothy, about 1 minute. Taste and season
with more salt and/or sugar if needed.
Divide soup among bowls. Drizzle with oil and reserved
cashew cream.
69
THE FOOD PROCESSOR
BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC
You know what can make both cake batter and turkey meatballs (and hummus
and breadcrumbs)? A boxy old food processor. It may not have the sleek curb
appeal of a fancy coffee machine or a stand mixer that you want to leave out
on the counter, but ranked on utility and versatility alone, the food processor
trumps almost all your other kitchen gadgets. Its sharp, ridged blades mean it
can tackle textures unlike the soups and sauces best left to your blender. Chunky
pastes and spreads tediously made with a mortar and pestle (like pesto) come
together in a flash in a food processor. Whipped cream made in one is its own
category, at once dense and diaphanous. Add an attachment and it’s unparal-
leled at shredding large quantities of cheese for pasta or cabbage for coleslaw.
The Cuisinart Custom 14-Cup Food Processor in particular is the gold standard.
I got mine as a wedding present (thanks, Mike!), and a decade later it still runs
like new. With a large capacity, reassuringly sturdy base,
and ultra-strong motor, it can do everything from mincing
Cuisinart
Custom 14-Cup soft herbs to knocking out tough pasta dough in under a Croon While
Food Processor minute. I’ve crushed ice in it, made pecan butter and
($250; pineapple slushies. Don’t settle for a smaller size. Any space You Cook
cuisinart.com) you save isn’t worth the sacrifice in functionality. Sometimes
BY SAM STONE
large and in charge is just the way to go.
There are endless kitchen

SURPRISINGLY SIMPLE clumps when pulled.) Turn dough gadgets that can make your
SANDWICH BREAD out onto a surface and form into a life easier, but how many can
M A K E S O N E 8 ½ X 4 ½ " LO A F smooth ball. make your life more joyful?
Lightly oil a large bowl. Transfer No, a Bluetooth speaker can’t
Thanks to its high RPM, a food dough to bowl and turn to coat with knead your dough or julienne
processor can mix bread dough oil. Cover with a plate or lid and let your veggies, but it’s a huge
in a fraction of the time it takes in dough rise at room temperature until part of setting up the right vibe.
a stand mixer. It’s shockingly speedy puffy and nearly doubled in size, Sing as you stir, melodize as
and simple. The resulting loaf 2–3 hours. you mandoline, belt as you
is soft and buttery, well suited for Lightly oil an 8½x4½" loaf pan; bake at 350° for 35 minutes.
morning toast or afternoon line bottom with a strip of parchment A kitchen speaker has some
sandwiches. This recipe requires a paper. Transfer dough to surface (no unique requirements. It needs
large capacity food processor and need to flour) and roll out to about fidelity and volume first and
its sturdy motor. Any unit smaller a 12x8" rectangle. Rotate dough so foremost because everyone
than 12 cups could burn out. a short side is closest to you and roll should hear the best version
up tightly into a log. Place, seam side of their favorite songs, even
¼ cup (50 g) sugar down, in prepared pan, nudging to when the blender is going
1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. fit snugly; pat down firmly to an even strong. Waterproofing is key
Morton kosher salt thickness. Cover loosely with plastic since spills happen to even the
2¼ tsp. instant yeast wrap and let rise at room temperature most experienced cooks.
3 cups (375 g) bread flour until dough is ½" above rim of pan, And voice-activated integration
6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut 1–1½ hours. with Amazon Alexa or Google
into ¼" pieces Place a rack in middle of oven; Assistant can be a lifesaver
Vegetable oil (for greasing) preheat to 375°. Remove plastic wrap when you’re wrist-deep in a
and bake bread until deep golden sticky dough but desperately
Process sugar, salt, yeast, and 1 cup brown (an instant-read thermometer need to skip a song (not today,
cold water in food processor fitted inserted into the center should Black Eyed Peas). The Sonos
with the metal blade until sugar and register 190°), 25–30 minutes. Roam ($179; sonos.com)
yeast are dissolved, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let bread checks all of my boxes and
Scrape down sides of bowl. Add cool in pan 5 minutes. Turn bread boasts a Trueplay feature,
flour and process until dough comes out onto rack and let cool completely which automatically tunes the
together and forms into a ball around before slicing. speaker’s sound to both
the blade, about 1 minute. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made its placement and the surfaces
With the motor running, add 1 day ahead; cover tightly with plastic in the room. Plus, with a
butter and process until butter is wrap after first rise and chill. Roll 10-hour battery life, you can
incorporated and dough forms into out and shape while still cold; second keep up the tunes through
a ball around the blade again, rise (in pan) will take about 2 hours prep, cooking dinner, and
about 2 minutes. (Properly mixed longer. Bread can be baked 2 days an entire sink full of dishes.
dough will be smooth, soft, and ahead; store in a paper bag or bread
slightly stretchy; undermixed, it will box at room temperature, or slice and
feel sticky and easily break into soft freeze up to 1 month.
71
Let me be your matchmaker, because toasters don’t have zodiac signs
BY ALEX BEGGS
I AM A…
CREATURE OF THE NIGHT
I NEED… WHEN I’M COOKING…
A SPECIAL MAXIMUM THE FASTER,

TREAT THE BETTER CLOGS ON FOR
A REASON
The All-Clad PICK A TEXTURE

Belgian Waffle
I CAN’T LIVE
WITHOUT…
frozen hash CRISPY
changed. CARROT ICE

CAKE CREAM
IF I HAVE TO DO A FEW
DISHES BY HAND…
MEH, DON’T MIND SCREAM

Toast thick
sourdough slices,
air-fry sausages,
frittata in the From silky soups Grate carrots and chop The Cuisinart Frozen
do-it-all-but- to piña coladas, pecans for that cake in Yogurt-Ice Cream
really Breville the Vitamix 5200 the Cuisinart Custom and Sorbet Maker
Smart Oven (p. 69) is as 14-Cup Food (p. 77) will keep you
Air Fryer Pro essential as it is Processor (p. 71). stocked on the cold stuff
(p. 75). At dinner, expensive—but FYI, Rely on its sharp blades for the rest of your life
use it when you you can buy to easily make thick, and is especially fun for
want roasted refurbished models creamy spreads like those who like to
broccoli faster direct from the almond butter, pesto, experiment in the kitchen
than it takes company for less. and hummus. Then (put some leftover cake
your big oven The rub? You’ll have let the dishwasher do in your custard base;
to preheat. to hand-wash it. all the cleanup. see what happens).
BLEEP, BLOOP, COOK
2040: Custom Hydroponic Grower
Our gut microbiomes are like a “second
brain,” regulating our mood and well-being,
but we have barely begun to understand
Designers, tech writers, chefs, and scientists rub their palms how to properly care for them. The hydro-
together and predict the future of kitchen appliances ponic CustomFarms countertop grower
BY ALI FRANCIS lets you harvest designer produce like
Japanese strawberries and Robin’s Koginut
squash that are scientifically formulated
Imagine this: A tiny robotic chef assembles and cooks blueberry breakfast to boost your individual gut health. Take
muffins that have your ideal crumb and are nutritionally optimized based on an at-home microbiome test and Custom-
your biometric data. Just before lunch an internet-connected storage container Farms’ food scientists will select and ship
in your fridge fires a notification to your phone telling you, “It’s really time you a rainbow of seedlings that have been
to eat the bell peppers before they spoil.” And instead of going to the store to nutritionally tailored using CRISPR gene
buy steak for dinner, you’ll grab a perfectly marbled hunk of flesh that’s been editing technology to optimize your micro-
cultivated from animal cells in the mini bioreactor on your kitchen counter. biota. A mobile app will teach you how to
These fictional appliances might sound like props in a science fiction movie, cook your produce, with each bite carefully
but experts say they’re grounded in reality (well, mostly). Emerging scientific customized to boost your mood, make you
and technological innovations like 3D printing and artificial intelligence will smarter, and help you live longer. —Matt
power our future kitchen appliances—but it’s climate and human health con- Newberg, founder, HNGRY, a subscription
cerns that will really drive their innovation. “Food waste is such a big problem media platform exploring how technology is
in advanced economies, while food insecurity continues to rise globally,” says reshaping food
Lisa Yong, director of consumer technology at global trend-forecasting agency
WGSN. The best future kitchen appliances will not only perform multiple cook- 2045: Digital Chef
ing functions well, she anticipates, but will also help us reduce energy consump- Healthy eating is an ever-shifting target.
tion, increase personal nutrition, and prevent looming resource scarcity. The Digital Chef takes the guesswork out
To envision the future of home cooking, we gave technology writers, scien- of nutrition by measuring your biometrics
tists, designers, chefs, and engineers an assignment: Invent a kitchen appliance and customizing meals to meet vitamin
that could hit shelves sometime in the next 50 years. Here are their predictions. deficiencies and food sensitivities. Inside
the transparent glass dome, a robot taps
a carousel of carefully formulated liquids,
oils, powders, and pastes to assemble your
meal using advanced 3D printing technol-
ogy. Meanwhile, lasers cook food with
2025: Smart Saver Storage Containers tracking and app-connected AI prompts extreme precision. AI software helps the
There’s no simple way to organize a refrig- the families to reorder supplies when Digital Chef learn from your eating habits,
erator so you can see all the food you they’re out. And individual families could make suggestions based on your past faves,
have—and use it before it expires and still keep their own private stores in bio- and then create better-for-you meals to
inevitably ends up in the compost bin. metrically locked drawers. —Ravi Sawhney, enjoy, all while introducing new flavor and
Enter: Smart Savers. These airtight, inter- CEO and founder, RKS Design texture experiences. —Jonathan Blutinger,
net-connected containers use a scale and PhD, food robotics engineer and postdoctoral
AI technology to identify what’s being 2035: Smart Fermentor fellow, Columbia Engineering
placed inside. An LED panel on the front Fermentation is one of the best ways to
of each box tells you when something preserve vegetables beyond their peak. 2065: Home Meat Cultivator
needs to be eaten, and alerts are also sent While many cultures have been doing this Animal agriculture comes with a lot of
to your phone with recipe ideas on what for millennia, the Smart Fermentor takes downsides: carbon emissions, welfare issues,
to do with your wilted kale and past-their- the guesswork out of making hot sauce, antimicrobial resistance, and food security
prime carrots. —Brian X. Chen, lead con- kimchi, and more. Like an AI-powered questions. The Home Meat Cultivator,
sumer technology writer, ‘The New York Times’ drip coffee maker, you fill the core cham- which looks and operates a little bit like a
ber with veggies. A scale tells you how much stainless-steel microbrewer used to make
2030: Communal Refrigerator salt, water, and seasoning to add. And beer, helps you produce your own meat
The future kitchen lies in the past: For internet-connected sensors constantly without harming the environment. Prefilled
much of human history, kitchens have been monitor the pH, auto-adjust the tempera- pods of animal cells and nutrients are
communal. By splitting the expense of a ture, and instantly detect issues like mold, plugged into the device and grown into
kitchen, the cost of homes will reduce sig- sending information back to an app on juicy pork chops, plump shrimp, or tender
nificantly and groups of families will forge your phone. Even professional chefs get ground lamb. Once users get the hang of
bonds as they cook together. The solar- a little nervous canning their ferments, it, they can customize their pods to make,
powered Communal Refrigerator supports but the Smart Fermentor automatically for example, steaks with the texture and
this vision: It’s a large device that would sterilizes and jars food in a secondary cham- nutritional profile of salmon. What would
live in the shared kitchen of a residential ber. —Caroline Schiff, author, ‘The Sweet you create? —Claire Bomkamp, PhD, lead
development and store enough food for Side of Sourdough,’ and executive pastry chef, scientist and cultivated meat and seafood
multiple people or families. Weighted auto Gage & Tollner, NYC specialist, The Good Food Institute
73
With Almond Cow,
Everything Is Milk
BY KAREN YUAN
Ever had the pleasure of drinking

fresh almond milk? It’s richer,
nuttier, and creamier than anything
store-bought. I’m lactose intolerant,
so milk alternatives are staples
in my breakfasts and coffees.
They have to be planned for in
advance—at least the night
before—and since I have the
attention span of a squirrel, I’ve
never been able to successfully
carry out all the steps (soak, blend,
strain). But recently, I’ve discovered
a way for my lazy self to still
whip some up at home without the
hassle. Almond Cow ($245;
almondcow.co), an electric
plant-based milk maker, simplifies
the process. For my first batch
I followed the brand’s coconut
cashew milk recipe, which required
zero soaking. I added water,
cashews, and seasonings
(chopped dates, coconut shreds,
vanilla) and pressed the cow-
shaped button. In 55 seconds
(I timed it), I had a frothy, creamy,
subtly sweet drink that tasted
fresher than anything from
a carton—perfect for cereal,
smoothies, and oatmeal. Plus, it
can handle more than just nuts. This
Wonka-like contraption can milkify
avocados, flaxseed, even potatoes
(the included recipe book is a
great guide). I tested out corn—
with great anticipation—and now
I’m suddenly a corn milk person.
If you’re an absolute fanatic for
nondairy milk, which Almond Cow
is slowly turning me into, you’re
in for a life-changing experience.
Did I need an Almond Cow in my
life? No. Is it teaching me to dream
a little bigger when it comes to
breakfast beverages? Absolutely.
74
THE COUNTERTOP
AIR FRYER
BY JESSE SZEWCZYK
While an air fryer might seem like it falls in the “nice to

have” category, mine has become invaluable. Whether I’m
cooking frozen dumplings, reheating leftovers, or starting
a dish from scratch, it’s now an essential part of my weeknight
dinner routine. An air fryer works by constantly circulating
hot air, mimicking the powerful convection ovens found in
restaurant kitchens (but its compact size means it works
even faster). It speeds up cooking, keeping food from dry-
ing out, and delivers unbeatable crunchy textures. You can
revive day-old pizza or quickly make tender, golden brown
butternut squash without having to use much oil. Anything
that would benefit from a crispy exterior, whether that’s
skin-on chicken thighs or breaded cutlets, gets there faster,
stays juicier, and boasts an even better texture than it would
in an oven. It’s also a lifesaver during hot summer months:
Instead of preheating my oven, which
Breville Smart in turn heats up my entire apartment,
Oven Air Fryer I turn on the air fryer. It’s one of
Pro ($400; those rare kitchen appliances that not
breville.com) only makes cooking easier but actually
produces a far superior product.
AIR FRYER GARLICNORI FRIES

6 S E RV I N G S
Inspired by the fries at Wenwen, chef Eric Sze’s

Taiwanese restaurant in New York City, this version
shows off the air fryer’s best trait—reheating frozen
snacks. Only textured fries (like crinkle- or waffle-cut)
will do—their grooves and ridges turn exceptionally
crisp in the fryer and expertly hold on to the spirited,
salty seaweed seasoning.
1 32-oz. bag frozen crinkle-cut or waffle-cut fries

2 .35-oz. packages seasoned toasted seaweed snacks
1 chicken bouillon cube (preferably Knorr)
1 Tbsp. sugar
1½ tsp. garlic powder
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt
½ cup mayonnaise
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped, divided
1 Tbsp. (or more) vegetable oil
Heat air fryer to 400°. Working in 2 batches, spread out

fries on fryer tray in an even layer and cook, tossing halfway
through, until golden brown and crisp, 6–12 minutes.
Meanwhile, using your fingers, mix seaweed, bouillon
cube, sugar, garlic powder, and salt in a small bowl,
crushing seaweed into small shards and rubbing bouillon
into sugar and salt, until well combined. Stir mayonnaise
and one third of chopped garlic in another small bowl.
Transfer fries to a large bowl. Drizzle with oil (this will
help the toppings adhere), then scatter seaweed mixture
and remaining chopped garlic over. Toss to coat, adding
up to 1 Tbsp. more oil if needed.
Pile fries in a shallow bowl; top with any seaweed
mixture and garlic left in bowl. Serve with garlic
mayonnaise for dipping.
75
76
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF AMAZON (TOASTER); COURTESY OF SONOS (SPEAKER);
COURTESY OF ALMOND COW (ALMOND COW); COURTESY OF AMAZON (RICE MAKER).
THE ICE CREAM MAKER
BY SHILPA USKOKOVIC
I’m going to need someone to explain to me the value of no-churn ice cream. In
a nation obsessed with ice cream (the US ranks number two in the world for ice
cream consumption per capita), there’s no dearth of good, even great, icy treats
that are incredibly easy to come by. At your local grocery store, in the diner you
hit in that lakeside town you went to in the summer of 2018—America is filled with
excellent commercial ice cream no matter where you look. So when I make it at
home, I want to make the real deal, the better-than-store-bought kind with wild,
reckless flavors that beget the question, “Are you high?” Not some no-churn ver-
sion that tastes like compromise and condensed milk.
In this pursuit, only an ice cream machine can deliver. Yes, it’s single-use. (Actually,
it’s not. You can make really good frozen margaritas in one (see p. 6). You’re welcome.)
Yes, it takes up appreciable cabinet space. But the payoff from the very first pint is
so, so sweet. You can make frozen custard, and gelato, and ice cream, and sorbet.
Each so fresh tasting, so creamy and supple you might henceforth beg off store-bought.
With a bit of planning and freezer space, a model where you freeze the
insulated bowl insert first (for at least eight hours) is your best bet at home. I love
the Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream and Sorbet Maker. It consistently makes
ice cream from a cold base in under 20 minutes, always
a good thing when it comes to ice cream making (the
Cuisinart Frozen
Yogurt-Ice Cream quicker the churn, the smaller the ice crystals and
and Sorbet smoother the end result). These types of machines are
Maker ($70; often affordable and dependable because the technology
cuisinart.com) is minimal, and it’s my preferred choice over machines
with a built-in compressor.
CANNOLI ICE CREAM whisking occasionally, just until sugar

M A K E S 1 Q U A RT is dissolved and mixture is steaming,
about 5 minutes.
This recipe captures all the qualities of Meanwhile, whisk cornstarch
a great cannoli in an equally enjoyable and remaining ¼ cup half-and-half
frozen format. The egg-free custard in a medium bowl until smooth.
allows the fresh-milk ricotta flavor Add cornstarch mixture to saucepan;
to shine through without the bother reserve bowl. Cook, whisking
of separating or tempering egg yolks. constantly, until custard is thickened
The crushed sugar cones soften and large bubbles break on surface,
to a delightful chew in the ice cream, 6–9 minutes; remove from heat.
which is scooped into cones to mimic Place cream cheese and ricotta in
the sensation of biting into a crisp reserved bowl. Pour about one quarter
cannoli shell. of hot custard over; whisk vigorously
until smooth, about 2 minutes.
Zest of 1 large lemon Pour in remaining custard and whisk
¾ cup (150 g) sugar to combine. Let cool, whisking
¼ cup (80 g) honey occasionally, about 20 minutes. Strain
2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. through a fine-mesh sieve into a small
Morton kosher salt bowl. Cover ice cream base and chill
2¼ cups half-and-half, divided until thick, at least 4 hours.
1 Tbsp. cornstarch Transfer ice cream base to ice
2 oz. cream cheese cream maker and process according
1¼ cups whole-milk ricotta to manufacturer’s directions until the
2 sugar cones, coarsely crushed, consistency of soft-serve. Add crushed
plus more for serving sugar cones, chocolate, and pistachios
¼ cup (40 g) coarsely chopped and run machine for a few minutes to
orange-flavored chocolate evenly distribute. Scrape ice cream into
(such as Lindt) an airtight container and press plastic
¼ cup (30 g) raw pistachios, wrap directly onto surface. Cover and
preferably Iranian or Sicilian, freeze until firm, at least 2 hours.
coarsely chopped Scoop ice cream into cones.
D O A H E A D : Ice cream base can be
Heat lemon zest, sugar, honey, made 4 days ahead; keep chilled. Ice
salt, and 2 cups half-and-half in a cream can be made up to 3 days ahead
medium saucepan over medium, for best texture; keep frozen.
77
Whether you need to get dinner on the table in a
hurry or have a full day at the beach before it’s time to
light the coals, these summer grilling recipes employ
smart marinades to set you up for flavor success
My summer grilling exploits go one of two in a flavorful brew, some need just a speedy
ways. Either I plan the menu weeks in advance, dunk, whereas others get better with an
scribbling grocery lists in the margins of my overnight soak. I let the clock be my guide
work notebook and scheduling prep by the and opt for proteins that I know will take on
hour, or I wake up some Saturday with the maximum flavor in whatever time I have.
immediate, fervid desire to light my charcoal That’s where these five recipes come in,
Smokey Joe. Both versions are great because ranging in marinade time from shorter than
either way the day ends with the smell of a sitcom episode to as long as a 24-hour
smoke in my hair and something with grill getaway. No matter what your countdown
marks on the table. But my approach to mar- looks like, they’re here to help you get your
inating differs depending on the circumstances. grill on—with options for carnivores, seafood
While many ingredients benefit from a bath lovers, and vegetarians alike.
By KENDRA VACULIN
Photographs by ISA ZAPATA
Food styling by Micah Morton Prop styling by Sean Dooley
78
15
MIN
Lemony Scallops and

Blistered Long Beans P. 83
Seafood is the poster child
for speedy marinating—
a quick bath is all it needs
to take on flavor, and it
cooks in minutes. In fact,
any longer than a 15-minute
soak and the acidic compo-
Bulgogi Tofu Burgers P. 83 Tangy Chicken Wings With
Quick Giardiniera P. 84
30
MIN
While it takes a while for marinades to
work their way into meat, pressed tofu
1HR+ Make use of this dish’s chill time for these
acts like a sponge, soaking up a ton of chicken wings by quick-pickling a crunchy
flavor in no time at all. vegetable accompaniment while you wait.
80
with tongs, until golden brown and lightly Meanwhile, prepare a grill for
charred in spots, about 1 minute. Return medium-high heat; clean and oil grate.
2HRs+ to bowl and season with salt.
Remove steak from marinade, letting
Place long beans on a rimmed baking
sheet, drizzle with oil, and turn to coat.
excess drip back into bag, and pat dry Season with kosher salt.
with paper towels. Lightly rub all over Remove scallops from marinade, letting
with vegetable oil. Grill steak until evenly excess drip back into bowl, and thread
Steakhouse Salad With charred and medium-rare (an instant-read onto skewers. Place scallops on grate
Balsamic and Blue Cheese thermometer inserted into thickest part (if possible, arrange skewers with handles
of steak should register 125°), about hanging off edge of grill to make turning
Skirt steak takes well to marinades
2 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting easier). Grill scallops until just cooked
because of its loose muscle structure,
board and let rest 10–15 minutes. through and deep brown marks appear,
and pricking it all over with a knife
Meanwhile, whisk mustard and about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a
helps even more flavor to penetrate.
remaining 3 Tbsp. vinegar and 1 tsp. large plate.
Two hours gives the tough cut enough
maple syrup in a large bowl; season Arrange long beans on grate and grill,
time to tenderize and take on the
with salt. Slowly stream in remaining turning often with tongs, until blistered
savory brightness of balsamic vinegar
¼ cup olive oil, whisking constantly until and charred in spots, about 4 minutes.
and Worcestershire sauce.
dressing is emulsified. Add lettuce and Transfer long beans to a platter and
tomato to dressing and toss to coat. Tear arrange skewers on top. Drizzle with oil
bread into very large pieces and add and squeeze juice from some lemon
to salad; toss again. wedges over. Sprinkle with sea salt. Serve
Transfer salad to a platter or divide with more lemon wedges.
STEAKHOUSE SALAD WITH among plates. Thinly slice steak against
BALSAMIC AND BLUE CHEESE the grain and arrange on top; drizzle
4  6 S E RV I N G S any accumulated juices over. Top with blue
cheese and season with black pepper. BULGOGI TOFU BURGERS
You may be tempted to eat this crazy- 6 S E RV I N G S
tangy balsamic-blasted steak all by itself,
but it truly shines alongside funky blue The sweet-and-savory marinade here
cheese, juicy tomatoes, and delightfully LEMONY SCALLOPS AND relies on blended ripe pear for subtle
oversize croutons. BLISTERED LONG BEANS fruitiness and gochugaru chile flakes
3  4 S E RV I N G S for heat. It also doubles as the base for
1¼lb. skirt steak an easy, creamy condiment for the
3 garlic cloves, finely grated Long beans are well worth seeking assembled burgers.
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce out at Asian markets—they’re fun
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper to eat and easy to grill since they won’t 1 English hothouse cucumber, thinly
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided fall through the grate. If you can’t sliced on a diagonal
¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar find them, regular green beans will ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp.
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. pure maple syrup work too. Just be sure to grill the green Morton kosher salt
1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. beans perpendicular to the grate. 6 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar,
Morton kosher salt, plus more divided
1 tsp. freshly ground pepper, plus more ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice 2 14-oz. blocks extra-firm tofu, drained
Vegetable oil (for grill and rubbing) 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 ripe pear, cored, coarsely chopped
½ loaf country-style bread, torn into 2 tsp. honey 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced
4" pieces 2 tsp. mild chile flakes (such as 2 garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard Aleppo-style or Marash) ¼ cup soy sauce
1 large head of romaine lettuce, leaves ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
separated, torn ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more 1 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 large tomato, cut into wedges for grill and drizzling 1 Tbsp. gochugaru (coarse Korean red
3 oz. Danish blue cheese, thinly sliced, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. pepper powder)
broken into large pieces Morton kosher salt, plus more 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for grill
12 dry large sea scallops, side muscle 2 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean hot pepper
Pat steak dry with paper towels; halve removed, patted dry paste)
crosswise if too long to fit on grill. Prick all 1 lb. Chinese long beans or green 6 hamburger buns, split
over with a paring knife. beans, trimmed ⅓ cup mayonnaise
Combine garlic, Worcestershire sauce, Lemon wedges (for serving)
cayenne, ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ cup vinegar, Flaky sea salt Toss cucumber with salt and 3 Tbsp.
1 Tbsp. maple syrup, 1 Tbsp. Diamond vinegar in a medium bowl. Let sit at room
Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : Three or four 8" metal temperature, tossing occasionally, until
and 1 tsp. black pepper in a large skewers or bamboo skewers, soaked ready to serve.
resealable plastic bag. Add steak and 30 minutes Wrap each block of tofu in a few
seal bag; massage steak to coat. Chill layers of paper towels and place on
at least 2 hours and, preferably, up to Whisk lemon juice, soy sauce, honey, rimmed baking sheets. Weigh down each
6 hours. Let steak sit at room temperature mild chile flakes, red pepper flakes, with a heavy object, such as a cast-iron
30 minutes before grilling. ¼ cup oil, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal skillet, and let sit 15 minutes.
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small Meanwhile, purée pear, ginger, garlic,
oil grate with vegetable oil. Toss bread bowl. Add scallops and turn to coat. soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar,
with ¼ cup olive oil in a large bowl to Cover and chill 15 minutes (don’t be gochugaru, 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, and
coat. Grill bread, turning occasionally tempted to marinate scallops longer). continues on page 84
83
remaining 3 Tbsp. vinegar in a blender 2 Tbsp. buttermilk or sour cream 1 garlic clove, finely grated
until very smooth. Pour half of marinade Freshly ground pepper ¼ cup fresh lime juice
into a large baking dish. Hot honey (for serving) 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice
Unwrap tofu and slice each block 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
crosswise into 6 slabs. Arrange tofu in a Whisk tomato paste, garlic powder, for grill and drizzling
single layer in baking dish, then pour Italian seasoning, paprika, ¼ cup Kosher salt
remaining marinade over. Cover and chill vinegar, ¼ cup oil, and 2 tsp. Diamond 4 large very ripe (black) plantains,
30 minutes. Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in peeled, halved lengthwise
Prepare a grill for medium-high a medium bowl. Add chicken wings and Cilantro leaves with tender stems
heat; clean and oil grate. Remove tofu toss to coat. Cover and chill at least and/or mint leaves (for serving)
from marinade, letting excess drip 1 hour and, preferably, up to 3 hours. Flaky sea salt
back into dish, and transfer to a clean Meanwhile, place cauliflower, carrot,
rimmed baking sheet; reserve marinade celery, and cherry peppers in a medium PORK Combine garlic, lime juice,
for glazing and making sauce. Whisk heatproof bowl. Bring sugar and remaining orange juice, oil, cumin, kosher salt,
gochujang into reserved marinade. 1 cup vinegar and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal and oregano in a large resealable
Place tofu on grate, brush with or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt to a simmer plastic bag. Add pork and seal bag;
marinade, and grill until deep brown in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve massage steaks to coat. Chill at least
marks appear, about 5 minutes. Carefully sugar. Remove from heat and stir in 4 hours and, preferably, up to 1 day. Let
turn tofu over and brush second side cherry pepper brine; pour mixture over pork sit at room temperature 30 minutes
with marinade. Grill until deep brown vegetables. Let sit 15 minutes, then chill before grilling.
marks appear, about 5 minutes. Return until ready to serve.
tofu to baking sheet. Combine feta and buttermilk in a food P L A N TA I N S A N D ASS E M B LY Toss red onion,
Toast buns, cut side down, on grill until processor; season generously with black tomatoes, garlic, lime juice, orange juice,
golden brown, about 1 minute. Transfer pepper. Process until very smooth, about and 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl to
to plates. 3 minutes. Set whipped feta aside. combine. Season generously with kosher
Whisk mayonnaise and 3 Tbsp. Prepare a grill for medium heat; salt; toss again. Let tomato salad sit until
marinade in a small bowl. Spread cut oil grate. Remove chicken wings from ready to serve.
sides of buns with sauce. Build burgers marinade, letting excess drip back into Prepare a grill for medium-high heat;
with 2 slabs of tofu each, followed by bowl, and arrange on grate. Cover and oil grate. Place plantains on a rimmed
some pickled cucumber slices. grill, turning occasionally, until charred baking sheet and drizzle with oil; turn to
D O A H E A D : Cucumber can be pickled in spots and an instant-read thermometer coat. Season generously with kosher salt.
1 day ahead. Cover and chill. inserted into thickest part of a wing Grill plantains until deep brown marks
registers 165°, 20–25 minutes. appear, about 3 minutes per side. Return
To serve, spread reserved whipped to baking sheet.
feta on a platter; arrange chicken wings Remove pork from marinade, letting
TANGY CHICKEN WINGS WITH on top. Tuck drained pickled vegetables excess drip back into bag, and grill,
QUICK GIARDINIERA around. Drizzle hot honey over. turning every minute, until lightly charred
4  6 S E RV I N G S D O A H E A D : Vegetables can be pickled and an instant-read thermometer inserted
1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled. into thickest part of a steak registers 140°,
In this recipe the building blocks of 7–9 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board
Buffalo wings—saucy chicken, cheesy and let rest 5–10 minutes.
dip, crunchy veg—get turned ever so Transfer plantains to a platter or
slightly on their heads. A whipped feta MOJO PORK SHOULDER divide among plates. Thinly slice pork
swoosh provides creaminess and zing, STEAKS AND PLANTAINS against the grain and arrange alongside
while celery, carrots, and cauliflower 4 S E RV I N G S plantains. Drizzle any accumulated
florets get a speedy giardiniera juices over tomato salad; toss to combine.
treatment for briny crunch. Citrus and garlic do double duty in Spoon salad over pork; drizzle any
this summer-ready main: first, as a dressing left in bowl over. Top with cilantro
⅓ cup double-concentrated tomato marinade for thickly sliced boneless and/or mint and season with sea salt.
paste pork shoulder, then as a dressing
1 Tbsp. garlic powder for a tomato and red onion topper.
1 Tbsp. Italian seasoning
1 Tbsp. smoked paprika PORK
1¼ cups white wine vinegar, divided
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
6
½
garlic cloves, finely grated
cup fresh lime juice 4HRs+
for grill ½ cup fresh orange juice
4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2½ tsp. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Morton kosher salt, divided 1 Tbsp. ground cumin
2 lb. chicken wings, flats and drumettes 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Mojo Pork Shoulder Steaks
separated, patted dry Morton kosher salt and Plantains
½ medium head of cauliflower, cut into 2 tsp. dried oregano
florets 2 lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston Hearty pork shoulder is made for
1 large carrot, peeled, cut into 3"-long butt), fat cap trimmed if needed, long marinating. Four hours will
sticks sliced crosswise ¾" thick yield great results, but setting it up
3 celery stalks, cut into 3"-long sticks a day ahead of grilling will imbue
½ cup pickled hot cherry peppers, P L A N TA I N S A N D ASS E M B LY
the meat with even more garlicky,
halved, plus ¼ cup brine 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced citrusy flavor.
2 Tbsp. sugar 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved,
12 oz. feta quartered if large
84
Recipe Index
GRILL THE COVER
Chinese Barbecue Pork Chops p.54
APPETIZER
Air Fryer Garlic-Nori Fries p.75
BREAD
Surprisingly Simple Sandwich Bread p.71
A Waffle Worth Waiting For p.67
BREAKFAST
A Waffle Worth Waiting For p.67
SALADS
Grilled Corn Tiger Salad p.48
Jammy Cumin Plums and Feta Salad p.62
Steakhouse Salad With Balsamic and
Blue Cheese p.83
SOUP
Actually-Vegan Cream of Tomato Soup p.69
MAIN COURSES
MEAT
Chinese Barbecue Pork Chops p.54
Free-Form Kebabs With Herby Onions p.22
Grilled Pork With Spicy Raspberry
Chimichurri p.58
Mojo Pork Shoulder Steaks and Plantains p.84
Mustardy Grilled Cabbage and Kielbasa p.18
Red Curry Pork With Rice Cakes p.35
Steakhouse Salad With Balsamic and
Blue Cheese p.83
Steak With Preserved-Lemon-Marinated
Tomatoes p.61
PASTA
Red Curry Pasta p.34
POULTRY
Cajun Chicken With Peach Salsa p.61
Easy-to-Love Chicken Thighs and Couscous
p.24
Falafel-Spiced Turkey Burgers p.36
Red Curry Chicken Salad p.34
Tangy Chicken Wings With Quick
Giardiniera p.84
SEAFOOD
Jerk Shrimp With Pineapple Salad p.20
Lemony Scallops and Blistered Long Beans
p.83
Shrimp With Feta and Tomatoes p.45
VEGE TARIAN
Actually-Vegan Cream of Tomato Soup p.69
Bulgogi Tofu Burgers p.83
Actually-Vegan Red Curry Pasta p.34
Cream of Tomato Soup
P. 69
VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES
Air Fryer Garlic-Nori Fries p.75
Grilled Corn Tiger Salad p.48
BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2023 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS Grilled Squash With Nuoc Cham Chimichurri
RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 68, NO. 6. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is p.53
a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Roger Lynch, Chief Executive
Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue & APAC; Nick Hotchkin, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals Jammy Cumin Plums and Feta Salad p.62
postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods Lemony Zucchini With Sour Cream and Dill
and Services Tax Registration No. 423242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND p.58
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BON APPÉTIT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED
MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), Miso and Maple Pecan-Butter Mochi Cake p.54
OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS
Sour Cherry Crumb Cake p.26
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MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. The Strawberriest Pavlova p.62
8 6 A U G U ST 20 23 P H OTO G R A P H BY I S A Z A PATA . F O O D ST Y L I N G BY J U DY K I M . P R O P ST Y L I N G BY G Ö Z D E E K E R .
Take your grilling to the next level with our
BON APPÉTIT X BURLAP & BARREL
SPICY & SMOKY GRILLING RUB
Try substituting it for ground spices in

your favorite grilling recipes. It’s great
swapped for the seasoning in the Cajun
Chicken and Peach Salsa on page 61.
SCAN TO SHOP
Dream Dinner Party
Kevin Hart Is All Business

For the on-again, off-again vegan, the meal is simple but the convo is serious
BY DAWN DAVIS ILLUSTRATION BY JONNY RUZZO
understand that energy

in-depth would be pretty
amazing. The lessons
would be invaluable.
You hear footsteps. It’s a

surprise guest! A comedian or
one of the actors with whom
you’ve teamed up. Who do
you hope it will be and why?
I’m going with Chris Rock.
That’s my guy. We’re
extremely close. It’s always a
good time when he’s there.
Ali Wong said the same thing!

Okay, what’s on the menu?
I’m pretty simple. Chicken,
fried rice, Caesar salad.
Unless I’m eating vegan,
then I’ll swap out the chicken
for a plant-based version.
Nothing too heavy because
I want the energy to be in
the conversation. I am not
an adventurous eater.
Speaking of following a vegan

diet (occasionally), the chain
of fast-casual restaurants that
you started in California, Hart
House, is one hundred percent
vegan. What inspired that?
It is all about having an
option. Looking at the
fast-food chains out there,
they’ve been the same for
years except for a few new
ones like Shake Shack and
Raising Cane’s. I wondered
what was available for the
plant-based customer. As
a long-time occasional vegan,
Kevin, you’re an enigma. You a resource for so many. I wanted to create that.
Kevin Hart is a say you eat to live as opposed
to live to eat, yet you own
I would love to talk to him
about what the ultimate goal I watched a Bon Appétit video
multihyphenate restaurants and can rattle off
your favorite Philadelphia
is for Amazon. Where are
they going? And how do they
with you and sommelier
André Mack and learned that
public figure— hoagie spots like a true food
obsessive. And you entertain
want to get there? Because
I imagine they feel they’re
you have a vineyard in your
backyard in California. Is there
he’s a comedian, an actor, on the regular. So who gets only halfway done. a future in which I can buy
and an entrepreneur. Here invited to your dream dinner? a Hart Sauvignon Blanc at the
he reveals the (tight) invite Only two people: Jeff Bezos And Kobe? supermarket?
list for a fantasy meal that and Kobe Bryant. Kobe Bryant because of Ha! I have about six
sounds more like a Harvard his spirit, his will—the barrels that are ready to be
Business School master Why those two? ambition and dedication that bottled. But no, it’s not for
class, with a cafeteria-esque Jeff Bezos because of the he attached to his craft. He commercial use. It’s for
menu to match. But we’re way Amazon has grown was an extremely committed my family, my kids—when
not here to judge! over the years; it has become person. To tap into and they are grown, of course!
8 8 A U G U ST 2023
NAME YOUR DINNER EMERGENCY—
OUR IS HERE TO HELP.

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The Grilling Issue

TABLE TALK 32 FEATURES 78

A view of Aphrodite’s Rock

Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA

DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY

PRODUCTION, COPY, & RESEARCH

SOCIAL & AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT VIDEO Old City splendor

Q: Our test kitchen has some very

Food director Chris Morocco says:

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISA ZAPATA (ICE CREAM); COURTESY SANT’ANGELO RESORT (ITALY).

What I’m Loving

Back on board, you savor this delicious memory while dreaming

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STEMS AND ALL

Hot & Fast QUICK AND EASY WEEKNIGHT MEALS

EASY PREP. EASY COOK. EASY CLEAN.

Vegetable oil (for grill)

1. Prepare a grill for medium-

¼ cup mild jerk seasoning

1. Whisk jerk seasoning and

2. Meanwhile, prepare a grill

3. Cut pineapple into ¼"

Introducing our new fully integrated 48-inch French Door

2 cups mixed torn tender

1. Finely chop 1 cup herbs;

Purina trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A.

1. Whisk sugar, ¼ cup

SOUR CHERRY STREUSEL Whisk flour, brown

The sense of warmth and camaraderie from dedicated staff.

It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime.

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CURATED TRAVEL EXPERIENCES.

SMALL SHIP LUXURY.

What’s in Matty Matheson’s Fridge?

3. RED PEPPER JELLY

You might assume that since I

Mix-and-Match Meals SAUCE

BY MOLLY YEH. PUBLISHED SEPTEMBER 27, 2022, BY WILLIAM MORROW COOKBOOKS.

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Sun, Sea, and Souvlaki

Lying in the shimmering turquoise

LEFT: Lost + Found

WHERE TO STAY GELATIAMO GELATERIA

LOST + FOUND DRINKERY LIMANAKI FISH

MELANDA BEACH ROUS RESTAURANT

Wang loves the way that summer

2½ lb. zucchini and/or other

Prepare a grill for medium-high heat.

Eaten together with the pickled

We love chimichurri, the Argentine

Vegetable oil (for grill)

Bought a Little Extra?

ZUCCHINI RASPBERRIES PLUMS

Flavoring chicken thighs with a simple,

1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs

Toss chicken thighs with Cajun seasoning,

Bought a Little Extra?

Download the new Epicurious app

Download the new Epicurious app