COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

PV AW 24–25 BY SERVICES GÉNÉRAUX

COLOR
REPORT
contents
IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR  3

AW 24-25 COLORS  6

AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS  11

YELLOW CLAY  12
TRUE ORANGE  12
OPAL GREEN  13
DARK PURPLE  13
SIMPLE GREY  14

HARMONY FOCUS  15
TEXTURES  16
LUMINOUS SHINE  18
DÉGRADÉS  19

GRATACÓS: COLOR CONVERSATION WITH ROSA PUJOL  22

JESSE ADLER: ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, EXPLORING PIGMENTS FROM FUNGI  28

SUSTAINABLE COLOR IN LEATHER  32

OLIVENLEDER®: INNOVATORS IN VEGETABLE TANNING  39

COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

it all
begins
with
color
COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

it all begins
with color
EXPLORE THE OTHER Each season, Première Vision brings together buyers and suppliers from
CHAPTERS
around the world. Thanks to its exceptional proximity to market players,
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH Première Vision enjoys a privileged window onto the industry. Constantly
COLOR
informed by the manufacturers’ collections, the Première Vision fashion
→ AW 24-25 COLORS team steadily constructs a seasonal trend analysis based on its exhibitors’
products. These products are crucial indicators of market realities,
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS
conveying the very latest information in real time. But how is this exclusive
→ HARMONY FOCUS information detailing the season’s key trends constructed?
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCES
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, At Première Vision, color lies at the heart of the creative process. Each season
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
starts with the elaboration of a new color range consisting of some 20 exclusive
FROM FUNGI
shades, developed in consultation with industry experts and creatives keenly
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR attuned to emerging trends and shifts in a 360° market: men’s and women’s
IN LEATHER ready-to-wear, childrenswear, accessories, shoes and leather goods.

→ OLIVENLEDER®: The first step involves meetings held in various countries—Japan, France, Spain,
INNOVATORS IN Italy, Germany, Portugal and the UK—six months in advance of the Première
VEGETABLE TANNING Vision Paris show, or 18 to 24 months prior to fashion collections arriving in the
stores. Each participant, drawing on emerging influences in the worlds of art,
design, fashion and color, expresses their own intuitions as to key concepts to
keep in mind, and presents their own ­chromatic proposals.
Following these meetings, representatives from each region then present the
earliest material and color ideas for their respective markets to the central
working group. During this gathering of international experts, and through a
wealth of discussions and exchanges, the future season takes shape, resulting
in the Première Vision color range.

EXHIBITOR INFORMATION MEETINGS

Thanks to the samples presented by the experts, and the overall color input, Première
Vision’s in-house fashion team generates a summary, which is then fleshed out
with more tangible directions relating to the materials themselves, from motifs to
aspects, handles, behaviors and finishings.
Information meetings are then organized in several countries to share these concepts
with exhibitors, well in advance of the show, so as to nurture their imagination and
help orient their ­collections towards the season’s themes.
This unique service provides exhibitors specific product-development avenues,
broken down for each activity sector: fabrics and yarns, patterns, sports, lingerie,
leather and accessories, as well as the latest sector-specific sustainability directions.
5
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

it all begins
with color
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
KEY TOOLS TO DECODE
THE SEASON
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH
COLOR
The final step is elaborating this information for buyers, and disseminating it. This
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
last elaboration results from a careful analysis of the highlights that emerged during
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS the construction of the season, rounded out by an analysis of the samples submitted
by exhibitors for the show. Several thousand products are analysed and selected by
→ HARMONY FOCUS the fashion team, to create clear and relevant information for all markets.

→ GRATACOS: COLOR The major trends in terms of the styles, uses and colors of fashions to come are
CONVERSATION rolled out in PV’s online magazine and at the show, in dedicated spaces presenting
WITH ROSA PUJOL the product selections. The PV fashion team decodes and dives into more detail
regarding this information during special seminars at the show.
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, For an even more complete synthesis, see the print magazine “Colors”.
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI
The Première Vision fashion team and the textile and leather industries continually
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR enrich each other throughout the year, in a virtuous circle. What you are holding here
IN LEATHER in front of your eyes is nothing less than the fruit of this valuable collaboration.
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

6
aw 24-25
colors

COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
KONOM ARK N*1 ©QUENTIN LACOMBE
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

aw 24-25
colors
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
THE AUTUMN-WINTER 24-25 COLORS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR
The Autumn-Winter 24-25 range is a color transcription of the various tensions
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
animating the season. A mix of softness and strength, the lasting and the fleeting,
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS disorder and moderation.

→ HARMONY FOCUS → Fluid conversations between warm and cool opposites: Meetings of sky
and earth tones, where variations of organic or ochre yellows are gently
→ GRATACOS: COLOR juxtaposed with luminously elaborated blues.
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL
→ Sharp contrasts between brights and neutrals: Grays extend from ashy
→ JESSE ADLER : black to cold white. The liveliness of blue, the intensity of true orange and a
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, flash of sun punctuate the timelessness of depigmented tones.
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI → Perturbing complementarities between restrained or bold greens and
reds: Natural and artificial synthetic greens combine with darkened or
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR blackened reds. The latter stand in for classic blacks and navy, expressing
IN LEATHER
color in mutation.
→ OLIVENLEDER®: Moderate contrasts, to be used according to each collection’s know-how, specialty,
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING and sensibility.

Reflecting the shifts in the market, the Autumn-Winter 24-25 colors open a dialogue
between inspiration and virtuous development, steering color choices and uses
towards sustainable developments.

→ Raw materials and their natural nuances are valued and recovered, in
skillfully selected mixes.

→ The growth of recycling and upcycling is reflected in the use of muted

tones and blends resulting from alternative dyes.

→ Vegetable dyes are explored, and overtake brights, which are never
perfectly pure nor aggressive this season. Neons disappear from palettes.

9
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

aw 24-25
colors
EXPLORE THE OTHER This season, a selection of 5 iconic colors summarizes the season’s complementary
CHAPTERS and vibrant tensions.
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR
→ N°7 - Yellow Clay, testifies to the symbiosis between earth and light. A
→ AW 24-25 COLORS reflection of sunlight on the earth, it unites matter and immateriality. Imposing
and discreet, it fuses liveliness and neutrality.
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS
→ N°12 - True Orange, symbolizes pure energy. As fascinating as a blood red, as
→ HARMONY FOCUS
incandescent as the heart of the sun, it vaunts its radical and seductive nature.
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION → N°13 - Simple Gray, embodies a timeless balance freed of questions of
WITH ROSA PUJOL gender and seasonality. It evokes a mineral neutrality - utilitarian, recycled and
durable.
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, → N°19 - Opal Green, transposes the green of plants into an evanescent
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
paleness. With minimal pigmentation, its appealing coolness forges a hybrid
FROM FUNGI
of biology and technology.
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER → N°25 - Dark Purple, adds depth. It’s intense, tinging minimalism with a
strangeness, nuancing darks and sophisticating textures.
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

FIND THE COLOR RANGE

ON THE PREMIÈRE VISION WEBSITE

→ Get more info and order online

10
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

aw 24-25:
key
colors
COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

aw 24-25:
key colors
EXPLORE THE OTHER Première Vision reached into its Autumn-Winter 24-25 color range to
CHAPTERS
identify five key hues. This modern and versatile quintet encapsulates
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR each of the season’s major themes - from solar to mineral, neutral to
→ AW 24-25 COLORS bright. In light of the season’s fabric and leather developments, we take
a look at how these shades find expression in the season’s new products.
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS
YELLOW CLAY
TRUE ORANGE YELLOW CLAY
OPAL GREEN
DARK PURPLE The cornerstone of the AW 24-25 season,
SIMPLE GREY solar energy comes to life in a soft,
luminous hue: Yellow Clay, which forges
→ HARMONY FOCUS a link between earth and light, between
→ GRATACOS: COLOR the tangible and the intangible.
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL
A way of brightening up winter
collections, infusing them with energy
→ JESSE ADLER : and radiance. This clay-like hue - poised
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, between a dynamic beige and a deep
EXPLORING PIGMENTS yellow - serves as both a neutral and a NATURAL ONE
FROM FUNGI color, worked either in print grounds or
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR used just in touches.
IN LEATHER
Unisex and timeless, Yellow Clay
→ OLIVENLEDER®: enhances the sophistication of
INNOVATORS IN everyday basics, from blouses in matte AYYILDIZ MDBLUE
VEGETAL TANNAGE silks to denims with a subtle sheen. FABRICS ANGELO VASINO DENHOLME VELVETS

→ More about: Solar Vision

TRUE ORANGE
In line with winter’s luminous hues,
True Orange forges its own place in the
season’s collections. This incandescent
shade evokes the purity of the sun’s
energy. It has a radical chic feel,
deliberately attention-seeking.
DENTELLES JEAN BRACQ In collections, it’s the new red. Luxurious
materials heighten its flamboyant
nature, lending it even more power and
panache. But the extravagance doesn’t
stop there: elegance this season is all
about texture. Jacquards, lace and
embroideries are embellished by tone-
STEPHANOISE - MEDIAC FIORENZATULLE MARCY PLUMASSIER on-tone accessories, for head-to-toe
evening looks.
→ More about: True Orange
12
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

aw 24-25:
key colors
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
OPAL GREEN
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR A pale, bioluminescent hue infuses the
winter collections. Like a cold halo, Opal
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
Green connects biology to technology,
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS giving off an astonishingly modern
YELLOW CLAY energy that wakes up classic tones and
TRUE ORANGE pale shades.
OPAL GREEN
DARK PURPLE A rigorous, enveloping radiance that
SIMPLE GREY finds perfect expression in a technical
SOFILETA vocabulary. Wovens targeting sport
→ HARMONY FOCUS & tech take on a soft sophistication,
subtly nuanced by complex weaves,
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION subtle shines, shot effects and rubbery
WITH ROSA PUJOL textures.

→ JESSE ADLER : For technical outerwear items - parkas

ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, KOOJOO FABRIC LAMINTNESS SUNWELL
or puffers - that transcend the casual
EXPLORING PIGMENTS universe and moves them towards
FROM FUNGI citywear.
→ More about: Opal Green
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETAL TANNAGE DARK PURPLE

This winter, there’s a certain eeriness to

darks. A deep, mysterious Dark Purple
gives a fresh update to timeless blacks,
navies and browns.
A way to infuse luxurious materials
with an aura of mystery, with a couture
approach: patent leathers, laces with
innovative designs, and shearlings with
a fur effect. TESSITURA ROSSI

For a chic wardrobe with a peculiar,

almost strange approach to decoration.
Elaborately worked pieces, with sensual
dresses that glide over the body.
YARANGUMELI
→ More about: Dark Purple BZ JACQUARD TEKSTIL BUGIS

13
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

aw 24-25:
key colors
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
SIMPLE GRAY
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR Simple Gray reaffirms its central
position in the color ranges. Already
→ AW 24-25 COLORS showcased in the Autumn-Winter 23-
24 season, it continues to stand out.
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS As the ultimate neutral, it bridges all
YELLOW CLAY genders and seasons. It also aligns
TRUE ORANGE with environmentally responsible dye
OPAL GREEN
practices (such as recycled colorings).
DARK PURPLE
SIMPLE GREY Elegant and understated, gray this
→ HARMONY FOCUS season is rolled out across a range LURDES SAMPAIO - SMART CREATION

of materials, from knits to leathers.

→ GRATACOS: COLOR Smooth or textured, matt or satiny, it
CONVERSATION transcends its basic utility to espouse
WITH ROSA PUJOL a new sophistication.
→ JESSE ADLER : Easy to combine, gray takes over
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, PASTEL BY
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
silhouettes in near-monochrome looks. ALBERTO BARDAZZI YILMAZIPEK FANTASIE TRICOT

FROM FUNGI Allying comfort and style, it displays its

full complexity and refinement.
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN FIND THE COLOR RANGE
VEGETAL TANNAGE ON THE PREMIÈRE VISION WEBSITE

→ Get more info and order online

14
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

harmony
focus

COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

harmony
focus
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
TEXTURES
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR At the intersection of background and decor, warp and weft, effect yarns and binding
yarns, colors engage in a complex interplay of textures.
→ AW 24-25 COLORS

→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS DARK RUSTS

→ HARMONY FOCUS
TEXTURES In a palette where dark and warm hues intermix with tonal shades of grey, structures
LUMINOUS SHINE are inspired by corrosion, with its whimsical irregularities, exquisite signs of wear and
GRADIENTS jewel-like patches of rust. Brushed tweeds subtly shot through with lamé threads,
frothy thrown yarns with glittery cores, glossy panne velvets, sequined organza and
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION frayed jacquards reveal warm glimmers beneath their subdued surfaces.
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN SIMACA GROUP
VEGETAL TANNAGE

MANIFATTURA
ASPESI FEDERICO HENRY BERTRAND DEL PRATO

→ Discover the complete selection

16
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

harmony
focus
EXPLORE THE OTHER DUSKY TEXTURES
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR At the edge of the visible spectrum, purples, midnight blue and darkened reds
interweave subtly raised effects across black warps, tactilely amplifying faint contrasts.
→ AW 24-25 COLORS In monochromatic darks, banker stripes and Saxony checks lend an imperceptible
dash of elegance to classic suitings. When worked in absolute monochrome, however,
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS
black shakes off its usual reserve and takes a theatrical turn: lacquered damasks,
→ HARMONY FOCUS schiffly embroidery, fringes, beads and sequins allow light to pass through their open
TEXTURES structures, or capture fleeting flashes with mysterious and dramatic accents.
LUMINOUS SHINE
GRADIENTS
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR SOLSTISS

IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETAL TANNAGE

RUFFO COLI TESSUTI MIGRA SINCE 1988 BRECOTESSILE

→ Discover the complete selection

17
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

harmony
focus
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
LUMINOUS SHINE
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR Light effects glorify fabrics, lending them both a surge of energy and an unreal quality
that is at times futuristic, at times dreamlike.
→ AW 24-25 COLORS

→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS

UNEXPECTED METALLIC
→ HARMONY FOCUS
TEXTURES Metallics are worked in fresh new colors, with boldly surprising mixes of complementary
LUMINOUS SHINE contrasts and luminous greyish tones. Flat lamés shimmer with printed motifs. Silkies
GRADIENTS are given a modern edge with aluminized finishings and technical calenderings. Lace -
→ GRATACOS: COLOR sometimes transparent, sometimes reflecting - dabbles in illusion, taking on an almost
CONVERSATION dreamlike quality.
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETAL TANNAGE
VENTURES

ERICA - COMPAGNIA
DELLA SETA PRINT IMPRESA TESSILE MAHER KHODER

→ Discover the complete selection

18
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

harmony
focus
EXPLORE THE OTHER SOLARIZED SHADOWS
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR Piercing the darkness of browns and blacks, solar yellows and luminous oranges
seem to throw off the fiery rays of an eternal sunset. In this ballet of light and shadow,
→ AW 24-25 COLORS everything is in motion, on shifting silkies, supple suitings and embroideries featuring
reversible sequins. Graduated checks, ikat-style stripes and sprayed prints all multiple
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS their halo-like effects. Blurred and sharp contrasts heighten the impression of distant
depths teeming with strange phenomena, mirages, will-o’-the-wisps and magnetic
→ HARMONY FOCUS
storms.
TEXTURES
LUMINOUS SHINE
GRADIENTS
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI
TESSITURA LUIGI UBOLDI
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETAL TANNAGE

ARELLA & CO NEW CONCEPTS MAPEL - STELLONI A.

→ Discover the complete selection

19
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

harmony
focus
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
GRADIENTS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR This Autumn Winter 24-25, graduated shades break with the usual artificial hues in
favor of a blend of the natural shades of animal and plant fibers. Blurry effects are
→ AW 24-25 COLORS reimagined, right up to lively and fibrous graphic expressions.

→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS

PRECIOUS NATURALS
→ HARMONY FOCUS
TEXTURES In a subdued palette, pops of color highlight natural hues dominated by beiges
LUMINOUS SHINE and browns. Tones melt into rich, sophisticated and tender gradations on brushed
GRADIENTS broadcloths and soft felted fabrics. They become intermingled and intertwined,
→ GRATACOS: COLOR further blurred by the fibers of woolen laces, growing even more refined when
CONVERSATION embroideries are layered over prints or jacquards. A replay of the chromatic blurs
WITH ROSA PUJOL found in nature.
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETAL TANNAGE
TGM INTERNATIONAL

PAOLETTI TESSUTI HENRY BERTRAND ALPAKA DERI

→ Discover the complete selection

20
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

harmony
focus
EXPLORE THE OTHER A SPRAY OF BRIGHTS
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR Brights are energetically mixed this Autumn-Winter, while carefully avoiding an
abrupt or grating look, in a mad jumble of colors. These are accentuated by hairy
→ AW 24-25 COLORS structures with a combed or shaggy allure that can go from thick fringes, to float-
yarn jacquards to frizzy tie-dye faux furs. Raised-yarn structures project color in
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS boisterous splashes, whether naive-looking in thick wools or vigorously spirited in
silky viscose.
→ HARMONY FOCUS
TEXTURES
LUMINOUS SHINE
GRADIENTS
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI
KOLUNSAG MUFLON

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETAL TANNAGE
MALHIA KENT VENTURES MONARCH JACQUARD

→ Discover the complete selection

21
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

gratacós:
color
conver-
sation with
rosa pujol

COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

gratacós:
color conversation
with rosa pujol
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR Since 1940, Gratacós has been supplying the most prestigious fashion
brands and young designers. Specialized in the production of top-quality
→ AW 24-25 COLORS silky fabrics, their business philosophy is based on entrepreneurial spirit,
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS the concern for innovation, and above all, the passion for fashion.

→ HARMONY FOCUS

→ GRATACÓS: COLOR
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

GRATACOS

ELABORATING COLOR AT GRATACÓS

When does the choice of colors come into play in developing the collections at Gratacós?
Color figures at the start of the creative process. You have to begin the development
of the collection by constituting the color range. This creates a solid working base
that lets us approach the season with a sense of confidence and stability.

How do you go about building your color ranges for Gratacós?

Constructing a range always starts with analyzing the previous seasons. Then we
take into account the cultural, social and political context, to imagine potential future
scenarios. This vision is what gives rise to the colors of the range. I start by gathering
all kinds of material I’ve accumulated during the prior months: texts, images and
ideas that I thought were relevant, whether in a physical or digital form.

23
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

gratacós:
color conversation
with rosa pujol
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR After establishing some guidelines, we start our work using a method that combines
an intellectual thought process with a more intuitive and emotional approach.
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
Once the general range is defined on a chromatic level, we divide it into three or
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS four palettes. Then come materials, aspects, decoration, and the combinations and
harmonies start to emerge.
→ HARMONY FOCUS
During this process, the collections are a living thing, in constant evolution. The
→ GRATACÓS: COLOR fabrics are always capable of modifying and improving upon our initial idea.
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL
Do you adapt the range to specific markets or specific types of clothing?
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, We produce a unique color range that defines us and gives a certain coherency to a
EXPLORING PIGMENTS collection. But we can adjust a specific color depending on a client’s needs. We work
FROM FUNGI
with themes, each of which derives from the range’s various palettes.
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR Each palette inspires different visual and tactile aspects, and different finishes.
IN LEATHER Colors are intimately linked to the material. Each shade in the range is imagined in
→ OLIVENLEDER®: a precise type of material, and conversely, a material associated with a color will
INNOVATORS IN trigger other expressive connotations.
VEGETABLE TANNING
Does the color influence the choice of materials? Or is it the other way around?
For me, color influences the material. But at the same time, experience tells us to
prefer one color over another for a given fiber, to highlight its characteristics as
much as possible. There is a fundamental non-verbal dialogue between color and
material. Each end product is a response to a concept, an idea, and underscores the
communicative power of each fabric. Even if this information is not always apparent
to those who see and touch our collections, we believe it conveys a certain emotion
to the customer.

Do you think of a color range as a guideline or more of a working tool?

That’s a very good question. Actually, I think it serves both purposes. The color range
is a guideline, which helps you to project yourself into a collection. But sometimes,
color is a tool that emphasizes the material, brings out the specific features of
an item.

How are the textile designs developed?

The designs stem directly from the season’s concepts. We express these ideas very
carefully up front, which allows us to develop the patterns very clearly afterwards.
Color harmonies and variations are elaborated as the collection progresses. We
conduct color and material tests, staying true to the initial range, even though the
intensity of the shades can change.

24
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

gratacós:
color conversation
with rosa pujol
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR In the past few years, have you seen a change in the way you work the color ranges?
→ AW 24-25 COLORS For me the role of color hasn’t changed—it’s fundamental. Today working with color
has become digitalized. Personally, I need to work with physical colors. Mixing colors
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS with brushes, getting your fingers dirty with pigments … One of the most incredible
moments in my job is creating the color range.
→ HARMONY FOCUS

→ GRATACÓS: COLOR How do you see fantasy and embellishment evolving in today’s fashion world?
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL We greatly value the fact that, in our market segment, the customer is always willing
to include fantasy items in their collections. What seems essential to us is that this
→ JESSE ADLER :
fantasy is guided by professionalism and know-how. You can feel this rigor in the
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS magnificent pieces that make up our clients’ collections.
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR Are you surprised by the work of certain designers?

IN LEATHER
I am consistently surprised by designers who create modern hybrids, delving into
→ OLIVENLEDER®: deconstruction, or using fabrics in unexpected and creative ways. I’m also interested
INNOVATORS IN in designers who work with the handcrafted, a certain imperfect perfection.
VEGETABLE TANNING
I also like designers who express their vision of the future through simplicity, a sense
of reduction. A search for a timelessness offering peace and comfort.

What interests you about the use of decoration in collections? What do you find new?
This winter season, I was interested in creating a rich but controlled fantasy, with
elaborate visuals but restrained colors. When working with tone-on-tone harmonies,
the focus is on structure, texture, and the blend of yarns and techniques within the
same fabric. My goal is to achieve a harmonious but never boring balance.

Does eco-design influence your choice of colors?

Unfortunately less than I would like. I wish I could say yes, but that would be neither
serious nor accurate. I hope that in the near future we can integrate an authentic
sustainable approach into our color research. But at the moment, in my field, that is
just a project for the future.

25
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

gratacós:
color conversation
with rosa pujol
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR THE AW 24–25 SEASON
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
Where did you draw your color inspiration for the AW 24–25 season?
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS
For Autumn–Winter 24–25, I worked with the concept of “time”. The idea was to draw
→ HARMONY FOCUS inspiration from the notion of timelessness, to create a really ambitious collection:
long-lasting, date-free, unlimited.
→ GRATACÓS: COLOR
CONVERSATION Textiles show the effects of the passing of time in an abstract yet tangible way.
WITH ROSA PUJOL Patterns and colors also bear witness to time. In 1933, Walter Benjamin defined
fashion as a “measure of time”. The color range of the season is made up of colors
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
that represent beauty, an eternal harmony.
EXPLORING PIGMENTS Three palettes were imagined:
FROM FUNGI
The first color palette seeks to convey grace, vitality and serenity. Fluid, expansive,
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR open and tenderly communicative tones. They are emphasized by very bright and
IN LEATHER
intense color accents.
→ OLIVENLEDER®: The second palette comprises intense tones, conceived to awaken darkness. Dense,
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING
spectral darks. Purples, browns and blues that are electrified by mineral reflections,
crystal lights and unusual golds. A strange range in an experimental baroque vein. A
deconstructed heritage, like a nod to classic couture.
And lastly, the third palette reflects the vibration of colors. Colors express moods and
emotions. This palette’s vibrations create harmonies that are freer, more awakened,
more vital.

Which color do you think is important for the Autumn–­Winter 24–25 season?
For next season, there’s a lot of interest in greys. When paired with color, they’re
calming—grey is a neutral that cools and softens harmonies. Greys also work
beautifully with texture effects.
A purple violet, while not new, is, in this winter’s version, a very dark shade, which
makes any color stand out.
Sun also inspires tones that are full of life. Gold will be very important for us, both in
an opaque and shiny version.
Finally, blacks and whites in simple and radical harmonies, as a symbol of reunification
between extreme and polarized opinions.

What does the color ‘Yellow Clay’ evoke for you?

It’s bright but nuanced, tied to the sun. You could think of it as a new “camel”, perfect
for playing with texture and organic textures.

26
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

gratacós:
color conversation
with rosa pujol
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR How do you work with light, both in collections and harmonies?
→ AW 24-25 COLORS Our collections are made to attract attention. We like to think that light has the power
to fascinate people.
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS
We’re especially interested in gold this season, and how to work it more delicately.
→ HARMONY FOCUS
Also, the mineral luminosity of past seasons has changed— it’s been transformed into
→ GRATACÓS: COLOR a watery, biomimetic luminosity. It’s a shine that is less superficial, emanating from
CONVERSATION the very soul of fabric.
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER : How is a “solar” inspiration expressed in colors and materials?

ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS We envision the sun as an energy, a source of life, optimism, and of course, the future.
FROM FUNGI
Chromatically, it can be interpreted in many different ways. Obviously, all shades of
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR yellow transport us to a solar dimension. But we wanted to go further, by associating
IN LEATHER the sun with joy. The use of a certain luminosity in the textiles brings this hint of “joie
de vivre”.
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN There is a time of day in the Mediterranean, around 6pm in winter, when the sunlight
VEGETABLE TANNING makes everything absolutely beautiful. It’s a palpable beauty, and the perfect time to
take pictures.
We tried to capture that moment in our fabrics. By using different techniques, we
focused on texture, and how materials react to light.

GRATACÓS GRATACÓS

GRATACÓS GRATACÓS

27
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

jesse
adler:
alchemical
mycology,
exploring
pigments
from fungi

COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

jesse adler:
alchemical mycology,
exploring pigments from fungi

EXPLORE THE OTHER Jesse Adler is a multidisciplinary designer and biomolecular scientist
CHAPTERS
working at the intersection of design, science, and sustainable innovation.
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR
Her practice is led by her curiosity about the natural world and passion for
→ AW 24-25 COLORS planet-centered design. Adler’s current research focuses on extracting
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS pigments from fungi and explores their potential to reduce, or replace,
our dependence on colorants from non-renewable resources (such as
→ HARMONY FOCUS minerals and fossil fuels) especially in the textile, food, and cosmetic
→ GRATACOS: COLOR industries.
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER:
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, AN UNDER-EXPLORED
EXPLORING PIGMENTS RESOURCE
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR Fungi have long been neglected.

IN LEATHER As a kingdom that includes
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
yeasts, mildews, molds, and
INNOVATORS IN mushrooms, it is one of the
VEGETABLE TANNING oldest life forms on Earth. For the
greater public though, it is seen
only as food—and sometimes, as a
psychotropic drug. But mycology
(the science that studies fungi) is
gaining traction. In medicine and
in industry, new research shows
that its applications could be
endless. From regulating waste,
to forestry health, to curing
human diseases, so many of our
current issues could be solved by
these organisms. And the fashion
world is taking notice. Mycelium
is being explored as a sustainable
leather alternative, with
companies like Bolt Threads and
Mycoworks raising impressive
amounts of money. A few of the final products are available in luxury stores, but so
far, the demand from the industry is far more important than what these companies
can produce.

29
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

jesse adler:
alchemical mycology,
exploring pigments from fungi

EXPLORE THE OTHER It was in this context that Jesse Adler, then a student in the MA Material Futures
CHAPTERS course at Central Saint Martins, decided to study fungi as a new way of obtaining
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR pigments. Equipped with a bachelor’s degree in biomolecular science, Jesse
researched the biochemical components of the seemingly infinite colors in the
→ AW 24-25 COLORS fungi family and how to harness them into consumer materials. As an initial proof-
of-concept, she developed a collection of makeup with colors that she extracted
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS
from fungi. “Fungi are an underexplored source of sustainable colorants that are
→ HARMONY FOCUS non-toxic, biodegradable, light-fast, and some even have cosmeceutical benefits,
such as antioxidant and UV protection,” says Adler. She has since further explored
→ GRATACOS: COLOR the utility of fungal pigments as the Future Materials Research Fellow at the Jan Van
CONVERSATION Eyck ­Academie in the Netherlands.
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER:
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, WORKING WITH FUNGI
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI
One of the key advantages of using fungal pigments is that they are a readily
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR available and a renewable resource. Unlike many synthetic dyes, which are derived
IN LEATHER from petrochemicals, fungi can be easily grown and harvested in a sustainable way.
Additionally, many fungi species contain pigments that are resistant to fading and
→ OLIVENLEDER®: washing, making them a durable and long-lasting alternative.
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING A living category of their own, fungi are biologically more similar to animals than they
are to plants. Adaptive and ever-changing, some mycologists even claim that these
organisms have “intelligence”. Because of that, and the fact that mycology is fueled
by research for a more sustainable future, Adler considers her work a collaboration,
rather than an exploitative extractive practice. “Designing with and not against nature
necessitates alternative practices and new instruments,” she says. An interesting
take on sustainable production, that could inspire other branches of the industry.

NATURE ONLY KNOWS FUNCTION

But these amazing colorways aren’t just there to be pretty. “Nature doesn’t see beauty
or aesthetics; it only sees function. Nothing in nature is an accident or fruitless”.
For example, the fungus that produces the blue pigment (with antifungal properties)
does so to block other organisms from growing in its food source. Meanwhile, a
fungus that produces yellow, orange, and red pigments simultaneously is currently
being studied in pharmacological settings for its anticancer properties. And the
same goes for every color on the spectrum. Turquoise is anti-fungal, brown offers
UV protection … Beyond aesthetics, colors offer real natural performances.
We all know the power that color has on our mood, with colors that can calm, relax,
or energize the viewer. Neon color has been used for a while for safety signage. With
these new developments, color and performance might become more intertwined
than ever.

30
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

jesse adler:
alchemical mycology,
exploring pigments from fungi

EXPLORE THE OTHER

CHAPTERS
COLOR INNOVATION
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR
Adler’s use of fungi in coloration techniques has opened up new possibilities
→ AW 24-25 COLORS for eco-friendly and innovative design. As the fashion industry continues to
prioritize sustainability, it’s exciting to see designers like Adler leading the way
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS with their creative and forward-thinking approaches. Maybe what started out as a
limitation—researching renewable sources to create colors—will end up offering new
→ HARMONY FOCUS
opportunities. It is estimated that we only know 1% of all fungi. How many new colors
→ GRATACOS: COLOR will we be able to create with the help of this seemingly unlimited resource?
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER:
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER

→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

31
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustai-
nable
color in
leather
COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

©PENNACCHIO ARGENTATO
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustainable color
in leather
EXPLORE THE OTHER Coloring is a matter of chemical transformation and its use in the leather
CHAPTERS
sector is no exception to the rule.
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR
The process is highly resource-intensive, ­particularly in terms of water and
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
energy, and it also draws criticism for the chemical agents involved which,
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS without adequate treatment, can be released into the environment. As for
textiles, the leather industry is mobilizing to propose greener alternatives
→ HARMONY FOCUS
for leather that can be deployed throughout the production chain.
→ GRATACOS: COLOR
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
THE DIFFERENT STEPS
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, AND POSSIBILITIES OF COLORING
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI
Giving leather its final color is possible at various stages of the transformation
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR process. In order to understand the various coloring options and their resulting
IN LEATHER
characteristics, here is a short recap of the 4 different stages of leather
→ OLIVENLEDER®: transformation.
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING 1/ The first step, river work, includes cleaning the skins. This step prepares
leather for tanning.

2/ Then comes the tanning which, thanks to the action of tannins, prevents
the skin from putrefying. Tannins are a substance that can be of vegetable,
mineral, synthetic or combined origin. At this stage, the skin does not yet have
any specific behavior or surface appearance.

3/ Specificities appear during the curing stage. This step involves many
operations including retanning, nourishing and dyeing, with the leather
immersed in a dye bath for dyeing in bulk. When the finished leather is dyed
solely by this process, without additional surface re-­pigmentation, it is called
aniline leather (or dipped in the case of full-grain lambskin).

4/ Lastly, the finishing stage includes all the operations that give the leather
its protective properties (against stains, rubbing, water or light), as well as
aesthetic characteristics concerning relief, shine, color, or handle. This
includes a whole range of finishing techniques that give the leather its ultimate
surface appearance. It is at this stage that the hide can be colored, or recolored
on the surface to correct or intensify the color or to give it chromatic fantasy
such as a patina, or dual tones. Leathers with additional surface coloring are
called pigmented leathers.

34
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustainable color
in leather
EXPLORE THE OTHER SPECIFICITIES OF THE TWO MOST COMMON COLORING TECHNIQUES
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR Dipped leathers or anilines:

→ AW 24-25 COLORS The color of the leather is only obtained by immersion in a dye bath, the color is
worked in transparency and will acquire a patina over time. The skin’s surface and
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS natural irregularities remain visible.
→ HARMONY FOCUS Pigmented leathers:
→ GRATACOS: COLOR An opaque layer of pigment is applied to the surface of the hide, giving it a covered,
CONVERSATION ­regular, homogenized appearance. The pigmented finish allows for clear colors and
WITH ROSA PUJOL
optical white that are not altered by the leather’s original color.
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS Water and energy consumption as well as the chemical products used in these
FROM FUNGI various stages have pushed companies to research more virtuous developments.

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR Today, new eco-­responsible solutions are emerging, making it possible to obtain
IN LEATHER clear and intense colors while reducing environmental impact. These solutions
derive from the diversification of tanning methods, notably metal-free tanning such
→ OLIVENLEDER®: as vegetable tanning, ­synthetic or chrome-free tanning.
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

VEGETABLE TANNING

While chrome tanning remains the most widely used method—accounting for 80 to
85% of the world’s leather production—its formulation loaded with heavy metals can
impact the environment. Vegetable tanning, a natural and traditional tanning method
using plants with tanning properties, is now enjoying renewed interest.
This ancestral method of transforming raw hide into finished leather allows for
the development of a wide range of totally sustainable products. Beyond its eco-
responsible aspect, the physical and aesthetic characteristics of vegetable tanning
give it real singularity. Firm and sensual to the touch, it develops a patina over time
and preserves the unique character of each skin.

1/ BASANES - ORIGINAL COLORS

Basane leathers are undyed, vegetable-tanned leathers. Without any finishing, they
develop a patina and are natural and authentic. Originally pinkish-beige, basanes
“tan” in natural light over time until they become ­honey-toned. That photosensitivity
gives them, and their natural tanned aspect, a noble appeal.

35
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustainable color
in leather
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR 2/ DIVERSIFICATION OF TANNINS
→ AW 24-25 COLORS

→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS

a. New basanes–Natural colorations and circular tannins
Today, new vegetable extracts with tanning properties are appearing, opening up
→ HARMONY FOCUS
fresh possibilities in terms of behavior and coloring. Their coloring virtues allow
→ GRATACOS: COLOR tanners allow to combine the retanning and coloring stages: hides are retanned and
CONVERSATION colored in the same bath thanks to pigments naturally present in those tannins.
WITH ROSA PUJOL
These solutions save on the dyeing and pigmenting stages, thus reducing water
→ JESSE ADLER : and energy consumption, as well as the impact of chemicals on the environment,
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, since pigmented finishes are sometimes composed of solvents and volatile organic
EXPLORING PIGMENTS compounds.
FROM FUNGI
These tannins also expand the basanes’ range of nude tints and allow better control in
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR obtaining the desired final color. Each of these tannins brings its own characteristics
IN LEATHER in terms of tint: thus, mimosa will render pinkish tints, acacia cream tones, and
quebracho reddish nuances.
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

MARMARA

In addition to the use of plants’ natural coloring properties, circularity is now at the
heart of the process, with “circular tannins” derived from agri-food waste. Recently,
initiatives promoting industrial symbiosis have begun to develop. Establishing
collaborative networks between industries, encouraging cooperation between the
agri-food and the textile or leather industry now allows for promising innovation,
especially regarding the use of waste that was previously unused. These materials
form part of the circular economy, in order to optimize all resources used and thus
reduce ecological footprints.

36
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustainable color
in leather
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR This approach can be used with tea, henna, and coffee grounds, as well as tannins
from purified grape marc and from the wine-making process for soft wine-colored
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
hues. This approach valorizes local resources rich in polyphenols and offers an
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS alternative to conventional dyes.

→ HARMONY FOCUS

→ GRATACOS: COLOR b - Bright new colors in vegetable tanning

CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL If vegetable tanned leather’s color response made it more difficult to obtain vivid
colors, innovations in the field now surpass that issue and open the field to wider
→ JESSE ADLER : color applications. Better dye absorption is now possible.
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS Circular tannins are also used here, such as rhubarb root or olive leaves from
FROM FUNGI olive oil crops. Once those plants have been transformed into tanning agents, the
result is a solution free of metals and chemical tanning agents. This new process
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR significantly improves leather’s response to color compared to conventional
IN LEATHER
vegetable tanning, and allows for intense colors through immersion in a vat of dye.
→ OLIVENLEDER®: For tanners exploring these new processes, finishes are also becoming low-impact
INNOVATORS IN thanks to water-based solvent-free primers or vegetable waxes that provide
VEGETABLE TANNING softness and suppleness. In addition to their coloring properties, these new
renewable resources give leathers a true identity, subtle scents and unmatched
tactile properties.

DIAS RUIVO

37
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustainable color
in leather
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR METAL-FREE & CHROME-FREE TANNING
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
1/ SYNTHETIC METAL-FREE
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS

→ HARMONY FOCUS Metal-free tanning is done without chrome or other metals, and is based on synthetic
tanning agents developed from organic compounds (polymer, polyphenol, modified
→ GRATACOS: COLOR glutaraldehyde, triazine). This tanning process has no official formulation; each
CONVERSATION tanner develops its own recipes, sometimes patented and with environmental
WITH ROSA PUJOL standards. There is increased interest in this type of tanning due to its metal-free
transformation process.
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, This method of tanning results in leathers known as WET WHITE, for their
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
characteristic pure, intense, bright white hue when they come out of the drum, which
FROM FUNGI
makes a perfectly adapted base for intense colors or bright pastels.
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR The name WET WHITE is opposed to WET BLUE — leathers resulting from chrome
IN LEATHER
tanning and requiring re-pigmentation to obtain optical whites.
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

EGEDAMLA LEATHER TMM

CONCERIA STELLA CONCERIA CILIP

38
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustainable color
in leather
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR 2/ CHROME-FREE
→ AW 24-25 COLORS On the other hand, new generations of tanning without chromium, heavy metals,
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS bisphenol-A or glutaraldehyde are currently being developed. Remember that
glutaraldehyde, as well as bisphenol-A, both frequently used in synthetic tanning,
→ HARMONY FOCUS have been registered on the SVHC (substances of very high concern) list.

→ GRATACOS: COLOR These new solutions give skins properties resembling those of chrome tanning and
CONVERSATION also make it possible to achieve light or very intense, light-resistant colors.
WITH ROSA PUJOL
A recent technology formulated with zeolite, a mineral that binds to the skin’s
→ JESSE ADLER : collagen, gives leathers properties almost similar to those of chrome tanning.
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER RECYCLABILITY
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN Other technologies that also aim to obtain a better method for dyeing and broad
VEGETABLE TANNING chromatic diversity are being developed in vegetable tanning, with tanning solutions
mixing vegetable tannins and biopolymers. These are being developed in collaboration
with other actors along the entire value chain: manufacturers of finishing solutions
and fertilizers. Finished leathers using these new organic solutions considerably
improve their potential recyclability. The absence of polluting chemical compounds
allows finished leather scraps and production waste to be recycled, to become
organic fertilizer, for example.

A 360° approach is necessary to achieve a product that can be recycled at the end of
its life (biodegradable according to ISO 20136 criteria, or Cradle to Cradle Certified).
This virtuous circle requires cleaner choices of dye combined with more respectful
finishing.

39
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

sustainable color
in leather
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR
COLOR LIFECYCLE
→ AW 24-25 COLORS

→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS Taking into account the end of the product’s life and the environmental impact of its
manufacturing process is an essential factor in an eco-responsible approach, and
→ HARMONY FOCUS the choice of coloring process will be an important factor.

→ GRATACOS: COLOR The many innovations in this area are aimed at reconciling the desired leather
CONVERSATION characteristics with a reduced and non-­polluting environmental impact, in order to
WITH ROSA PUJOL obtain finished leather with an optimal lifecycle analysis. Research and development
is now tending toward increasingly eco-friendly options in response to designers’
→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
creative color proposals. These are varied and stabilized, and may be vivid, intense,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS or patinated…
FROM FUNGI
Beyond a global approach, bringing together different kinds of expertise is
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR indispensable, and transparency throughout the manufacturing chain is crucial in
IN LEATHER order to push research and extend solutions toward more quality, creativity and
performance, with ever-greater virtue.
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

40
COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

oliven-
leder :
®
innovators
in vegetable
tanning
COLOR REPORT
AUTUMN — WINTER 24-25
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

olivenleder® : innovators
in vegetable tanning
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR Created by Wet-green GmbH, the Olivenleder® leather brand stands out
for its strong commitment to a comprehensive and especially innovative
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
eco-responsible approach. Focused on reducing its environmental
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS footprint, “the aim is not ‘less harmful,’ more ‘good for the environment.’”
Olivenleder® offers a range of vegetable-tanned leathers that combine
→ HARMONY FOCUS
innovation, circularity, and social responsibility with a palette of bright,
→ GRATACOS: COLOR deep colors.
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL

→ JESSE ADLER :
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
ORIGIN OF TANNINS: CIRCULARITY & SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY
FROM FUNGI

→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
Wet-green GmbH is a natural chemicals company based in Reutlingen, Baden-
IN LEATHER Württemberg, Germany. In addition to its core business, the company operates its
own tannery registered under the trademark Olivenleder® and develops leathers
→ OLIVENLEDER®: produced in compliance with strict sustainable standards while offering innovative
INNOVATORS IN vegetable tanning characteristics.
VEGETABLE TANNING
In line with its global eco-responsible approach, the company has developed the
vegetable tanning solution, wet-green® OBE, a patented technology that is certified
chrome-, glutaraldehyde- and aluminum-free. Its particularity lies in the origin of its
raw material: the olive leaves from which this tannin is obtained are derived from
waste from olive-growing activities in the Mediterranean region. After each harvest,
olive oil producers based in Mediterranean countries often burn the olive leaves, a
method that releases CO2 into the atmosphere. Wet-green GmbH collects the dried
leaves, cuts them and brews them like tea to allow the water to evaporate, obtaining
a syrupy tannin. Thanks to the reuse of these by-products of the food industry, the
supply of raw material is not only safe, but also truly beneficial to the environment,
allowing a reduction in CO2 emissions and an optimization of soil management. By
not growing olive trees exclusively for the leather industry, the company does not
encroach on agricultural land that could be used for growing foodstuff. «The olive
leaves used for our tanning agent accrue anyway during pruning and harvesting, and
therefore do not cause any additional impact,» states wet-green GmbH.
Beyond the ecological benefits, the production of wet-green® OBE has also generated
new sources of income for farmers, with the company ensuring that they are fairly
compensated. For Olivenleder, “this is one aspect of social sustainability.”
Safe and non-toxic, especially when in contact with the skin, the tanning extract
is certified for its innocuousness and has been granted the Dermatest Seal
“Excellent”.

42
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

olivenleder® : innovators
in vegetable tanning
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR A RANGE OF SOFT LEATHERS WITH DEEP COLORS
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
Thanks to intense research and development, Olivenleder technology moves away
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS from the heavy, restrictive standards of vegetable tanning and offers a greater variety
of behaviors and aspects, with more flexibility and deep color ranges, breaking new
→ HARMONY FOCUS
ground for vegetable tanning.
→ GRATACOS: COLOR Thanks in particular to the chlorophyll contained in the olive leaves, the hides, after
CONVERSATION
WITH ROSA PUJOL drying, are naturally very light, bordering on white, which allows them to be dyed any
color. Olivenleder® leathers also have a better capacity to absorb colors, a property
→ JESSE ADLER : that is usually difficult to obtain with vegetable tanning.
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY,
EXPLORING PIGMENTS Displaying natural shades, using finishes with a reduced chemical impact, the skins’
FROM FUNGI natural grains are enhanced, preserving its original qualities. The chromatic shades
live and patinate with time.
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR
IN LEATHER Olivenleder’s goal is to produce dye formulations of the highest quality that are free
from harmful chemicals and that do not impact the biodegradability of the leather,
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
retaining a high level of circularity.
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING The tanning agent not only guarantees maximum durability and an all-
encompassing ecological approach, but also reduces the consumption of acids,
salts, and dyes compared to traditional tanning methods.
The remarkable suppleness of these vegetable-tanned leathers allows for a wider
range of uses and opens up vegetable tanning to new markets, especially in the
clothing sector, where flexibility is essential.

43
 COLOR REPORT | Autumn — Winter 24-25

olivenleder® : innovators
in vegetable tanning
EXPLORE THE OTHER
CHAPTERS
→ IT ALL BEGINS WITH COLOR VIRTUOUS LEATHER FINISHING
→ AW 24-25 COLORS
Lastly, the finishing process, the final stage in a global approach moving from tanning
→ AW 24-25: 5 KEY COLORS to the finished product, guarantees excellent degradability properties. Solvent-free,
water-based, and free of volatile organic compounds, the finishes are made with
→ HARMONY FOCUS
vegetable waxes or oils, while the olive oil wax finish gives skins a delicate matte and
→ GRATACOS: COLOR rubbery surface. These finishes optimize the product’s end-of-life, allowing leather
CONVERSATION manufacturing waste such as production offcuts to be reintegrated into the value
WITH ROSA PUJOL chain, with the residues transformed into fertilizer, for example.
→ JESSE ADLER : Olivenleder® benefits from a global circular approach. The leathers are also Cradle-
ALCHEMICAL MYCOLOGY, to-Cradle Certified, with a Gold category Material Health rating.
EXPLORING PIGMENTS
FROM FUNGI When it comes to the unlimited possibilities of environmental responsibility,
wet-green GmbH is a company that is constantly pushing the boundaries of
→ SUSTAINABLE COLOR research and development without compromise so that, ultimately, creativity,
IN LEATHER color, know-how and sustainability can coexist in a single product.
→ OLIVENLEDER®:
INNOVATORS IN
VEGETABLE TANNING

OLIVENLEDER OLIVENLEDER

OLIVENLEDER OLIVENLEDER

44
 GAMME COULEURS
PREMIÈRE VISION
AH24-25

DISCOVER
THE PV COLOR BOOK
→ More than 50 inspirational visuals to illustrate
the season’s key harmonies and concepts,
→ Decoding of eco-responsible colors,
→ 25 exclusive shades,
→ 60 harmonies,
And much more…

This tool will guide you through your creative process with key harmonies and highlights
that will allow you to easily take on the influences and inspirations of the upcoming season,
ahead of the market.

The range is developed together with our expert partners during our international meetings,
where information regarding all the show’s various sectors is shared and discussed. As such,
the range reflects the realities of different productions and provides multiple inspirations
for the markets of reference.

FIND THE COLOR RANGE

ON THE PREMIÈRE VISION WEBSITE
→ To order online
Published in September 2023