Coasts Gateway 1

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Chopter} | COASTS = & what is a coastal environment? The coast is the area where the land meets the sea. It covers the area of land that is affected by waves and tides, and can be divided into zones as shown in Figure 13. The coastal environment is the result of interactions between the land (lithosphere), water (hydrosphere), air (atmosphere) and living things (biosphere). a) Ottshore Nearshore Foreshore Backshore ice Berm * 3a) A) i oe $a) A coast showing om esrcus zones, wr High ae ‘> 1.3b) A cross-section of (MSL + Mean $02. (evel I Figure 139) OF: Lawade How are coastal environments diffe Coastal environments vary from place to place. The variations depend on how much they af affected by natural processes and human activities. Coastal environments can be cliffed, sand) muddy or rocky. These characteristics, as well as the diverse landforms found in coastal environments, result [rom many factors and processes interactin« 19 with one another. This is why they are described as dynamic coastal environments. oF are O cited Figure 1.4 Coastal evronments with citferet characteristics. Scanned with CamScanner Types of ecosystems In an ecosystem, communities of plants and animals interact with each other as well as. the environment. Examples of ecosystems in coastal environments include mangroves and coral reefs. They affect the rate of change of coastal environments by reducing the impacts. of waves on coasts. Coral reefs are structures comprising colonies of billions of tiny polyps. They develop on the sea bed slightly below sea level. Coral reefs provide natural barriers that help slow down the speed and impact of waves on the coastline. Mangroves, with their special aerial roots, help trap sediments and reduce coastal erosion Over time, the trapped sediments can form small islands and extend the coastline further seawards. Human activities People change coastal environments by living, trading, fishing and engaging in recreational activities in these environments. For example, people alter coastlines when they build marinas and port facilities. People also cause pollution in these environments by dumping waste. Figure 1.7 This landform is formed by wave erosion. AT LINK Lear more aboxt orgrisations desicatc to protecting coral eat Visit wawcoral ra an vow reef og Wy are some things they q protect coal ees? Scanned with CamScanner Chapter] | COASTS 9 (Prster 1. With reference to Figure 1.8 and using the terms you learnt, decide which zone would be best for the following activities. Explain your decisions. a) Sitting inthe sun without getting wet ) Enjoying the waves lapping at your feet ) Swimming safely near the shore 2. a) Drawa sketch of the cross profile of the coastin Figure 1.8, On your sketch, label the various coastal zones. You may refer to Figure 1.35) to help you. b) Which zones are not shown on Figure 1.8? Give possible reasons to explain why. 3. With reference to Figure 1.6, explain how the impact of waves would differ between granite and limestone coasts. 4, Refer to Figure 1.4, What factors caused the difforences in the four coastal environments? 5, Refer to Figure 1.7, Using what you have learnt about geology, explain how the coastline has been eroded. ure 1.8 Bondi Beach in Sydney, Australia is a popular tout spot What are waves and how are they generated? Waves develop when the energy from wind blowing across seas and oceans is transferred to the water surface. The movement of waves is affected by wind direction. Onshore winds push waves towards the coast, resulting in waves crashing onto the shore. Wave terminology Figure 1.9 shows the various parts of a wave. 1al distance from erest to crestor from trough to trough. her of wave crests or troughs that pass a fixed point in one second, Wave length isthe horizont Wave frequency is the num Wave heightis the vertical vistance ‘between crest and trough ~~ = Tha erestis the hignest part of a wave \Woier purtisles move inn orbit; this matic decreases with dept J+ The trough is the lowest partaf awe. Figure 1.9 Various pars of a wave. Scanned with CamScanner Factors affecting wave energy Wave energy depends on three factors: the wind speed, wind duration and length of fetch. Fetch is the distance the wind has travelled over seas and oceans to form waves. Figure 1.112) explains how these factors affect the size and energy of waves. Wind speed The faster the wind blows, the greater the wave energy is. Wind duration | The longer the wind blows, the larger the waves are; resulting in greater wave energy. Fetch The greater the fetch, the more energy the waves have {refer to Figure 1.11b).. Figure 1.112) Wave energy is affected by various factors. ‘The amount of energy in waves can be seen from the wave steepness and ‘wave period. Wave steepness is the ratio of wave height to wave length; Figure 1.11b) As Fe wave period is the time waves take to travel through one wave length. The — rss Fa higher the wave eneray is, the steeper the wave and the shorter the wave FA sot period becomes. longer than Fetch w ards Zis able to genes, wind blowing aus og equal The table shows the reported wave height and wave length Wave Steepness ) for three different coastlines, With the average wave length and wave height data, calculate wave steepness using the formula: Wave steepness (in metres) = Wave height wave length Next, present the data in a simple line graph on graph paper, Using the x- and y- axis given. (Refer to Chapter 4, page 246 on how to construct a simple line graph.) Then state the Suggested relationship between wave height and wave steepness, ede 315 74 128 146 2056 Scanned with CamScanner Chapter] | COASTS 11 Waves in the open ocean ‘Waves in the open ocean have a long wave length end a low wave height. Water particles in the ocean move in an orbit (Figure 1.12), a motion that rapidly decreases with depth (refer to Figure 1.9). Waves close to the coastline Although water particles in the ocean move in a circular motion, this motion changes as waves approach coastlines (refer to Figure 1.13) change their shape ata tDlow down duet tion, This depth thatis equivalent to This causes the wave. Figure 1.12 The rubber duck about half of their wave height to increase andthe | ‘moves in an obit and almost length. ‘wave length to decres wave, Surfers, such: returns tits orignal positon. ‘one in Figure 1.10, ride: these breaking Figure 1.13 Changes in motion of waves 2s they approach coastlines. When energy within a wave is released on the coast, it breaks down rocks along the coastline into smaller particles. These particles are then moved away to other parts of the coast. Waves are key forces of change, creating coastal environments which vary from piace to place. Scanned with CamScanner a How do waves affect coastal areas? Have you ever wondered why beaches do not all look the same? The key reason is because the profile of a beach is partly determined by waves. Wave energy differs from place to lace, depending on various factors, Waves on the beach Swash and backwash When waves break, water rushes up a beach. We call this swash. As swash moves up the beach, it carries sediments with it. Swash loses energy due to gravity and friction with the land, and returns to the sea as backwash. The backwash carries sediments from the shore into the sea. Figure 1.14 Swash and backwash. Types of waves Constructive waves Constructive waves break far from the shore and with little energy. In such low energy wave environments, finer material is deposited, which in turns forms gentle slopes. Constructive waves have a strong swash but a weak backwash, Landforms such as beaches are ‘constructed’ by strong swash accompanied by weak backwash. The strong swash deposits sediments on the coasts while the weak backwash removes only some materials. Over time, the coasts are built up by the deposited sediments, forming sandy beaches. Destructive waves Destructive waves break violently on the shore with high energy. In such high energy wave environments, finer materials (such as sand) tend to be transported away by the turbulent water, leaving only coarser materials (such as pebbles) which in turn form steeper slopes. Destructive waves produce @ weak swash but a strong backwash. Instead of depositing sediments on coasts, destructive waves erode coasts and transport rocks and beach material away: Scanned with CamScanner oe Chapter] 1 COASTS 13 Low gradient, low energy environment Steep gradient, high energy environment ‘Small, low waves Large, high waves. Low wave height High wave height Long wave length Short wave length Wave frequency: 6 to 8 per minute ‘Wave frequency: 10 to14 per minute ‘Swash more powerful than backwash Backwash more powerful than swash Occur on gentle coastal slope and sheltered coast Occur on steep coastal slope and open coast Deposition process more prominent Erosion process more prominent Wave direction SS ave Aicecion ne Figure 1.15 Characteristics of constructive and destructive waves. Wave refraction ‘Wave refraction is the process by which waves change direction as they approach a coast, This occurs as waves slow down due to interaction with the sea bed as they move towards the coast. The impact of wave refraction on the shoreline is uneven. Figure 1.16 explains the uneven impact. ‘Waves tend to converge on or bend towards headlands, giving rise to increased wave height and greater erosive energy. This occurs because waves encountet friction with the headland as they approach the coast, causing them to slow down and break onto it. However, when waves approach bays, they diverge or bend away, resulting in decreased wave height and reduced erosive energy. This occurs as parts of the wave that reach shallow water first slow down while the other parts of the wave continue at the same speed. When waves approach a relatively straight coast at an angle, they are refracted and break almost parallel to the coast. reach the adjacent bays. More deposition will occur in bays ‘where wave energy is spread out. Figure 1.16 Wave refraction at a headland and in bays. Scanned with CamScanner y “fhapterl | COASTS Study Figure 1.17 and suggest a hypothesis about the relationship between the types of Waves and the beach gradient. Sea, Sea Constructive waves. ‘+ Waves that break far from the shore and with little energy. * Strong swash and weak backwash, Destructive waves + Waves that break violently on the shore with high energy. + Weak swash and strong backwash. ae as Figure 1.17 Cross-section of beaches showing beach gradient and diferent types of waves ‘What is the difference between: a) wave trough and wave crest? b) wave length and wave height? 2. Explain why waves increase in height as they approach a coast 3. a) Whats meant by the term, ‘fetch’? b)_ Explain why surfing is carried out close to the coastline rather than in the open ocean. ) What wind conditions and fetch do you think are ideal for surfing? 4, With the aid of the world map atthe | 6. back ofthe Textbook, explain | which ofthe following is likely to generate larger waves: a) Winds blowing southwest across the Indian Ocean from | Madagascar to Sri Lanks; or b) Winds blowing northeast across | the Indian Ocean from Myanmar | to Sri Lanka? | Give a reason for your answer. | Whatis wave refraction and how doesit affect headlands and bays? Imagine you are standing atthe edge of a sandy beach. Your fe} becoming wat from the incom waves and you ‘eel the sand sh under yo Which event dj think is the swash? Which evey you think 's the backwash? Describe the characteristics of constructive waves. ‘Suggest what will happen to th) shape of the coastline shown i Figure 1.16 atter a long period « Why do coastal landforms and features vary from place to place? Waves, tides and currents erode coastal rocks, and transport and deposit sediments along coasts. The coastal processes of coastal erosion, transport and deposition operate at varying degrees to produce a variety of coastal landforms and features. In addition, coastal processes cause changes to the landforms and features overtime. Scanned with CamScanner Chapter] | COASTS Coastal processes Coastal erosion Coastal erosion takes place in four main ways. One or more of these erosional processes may take place at the same time at any one coastal location. Original vock face When waves strike surface, the waves joints. This air is corp ‘oncoming waves, excriin ‘the joints, As the aris compressed, the joints rocks shatter. 2 Sediments carrie 1s sand and rocks 2 the coast. The loosened ‘ants knack and scrape against th coastal cliff. This weakens the surface and breaks dowa the coast. * Over time, the impact from abrasion is Powerful enough to undercuta cif. Attrition + When rock particles carried by waves ‘ub or hitagainst one another, they break down into smaller pieces and Pe % e become smoother and more rounded * overtime, @ Solution + Seawater reacts chemically with water-soluble minerals in coastal rocks and dissolves them. For example, limestone racks are easily eroded by carbonic acd When solution of minggats@etig rocks are weakenex.aqt{@vemall Figure 1.18 Erosional processes affecting a coast. Scanned with CamScanner 16 Chapter! | COASTS Sediment transport Sediments are transported along coasts through two related processes: beach drift and longshore drift. These Processes are the result of waves approaching the coast at an angle. ‘AS waves approaching the coast at an angle break on the beach, sediments move up the beach at an angle as swash and move perpendicularly down the beach as backwash The resultant zigzag movement along the beach is known as beach drift. When waves approach the coast at an angle, they generate longshore currents in the nearshore zone and move sediments along the shore. Longshore currents are ocean currents that flow parallel to a coast. The combined effect of sediment movement by longshore currents and beach drift is known as longshore drift. Longshore drift is most rapid when waves approach a straight coast at an angle of about 30°. a gp Te prooesesfStinent anspor, Recerca Scanned with CamScanner A. Hypothesis After learning about sediment transport, conduct a fieldwork investigation to test the hypothesis: The direction of sediment movement is influenced by wind direction. B. Collecting data To investigate the hypothesis, you need to: * Identity wind direction; and + Identity the direction of sediment movement, Equipment: + Wind vane (refer to Chapter 3, page 160) + Stopwatch + Five small oranges + Two ranging poles (2meach) + Measuring tape + Recording sheet (Resource sheet 1.2) eee ue peat fe. Procedure: 1, Find a safe spot where your view of the open sea is not blocked. 2. Use a wind vane to find the direction of the wind. Record the direction of the wind, 3. Near the water's edge, stick the first pole into the sand. At this spot, throw the oranges a metre away from the water's edge. 4. Observe the patterns of the travelling path of the oranges for at least 10 minutes. Then, stick the second pole into the sand where the oranges finally land after being moved by a series of swash and backwash. 5. Use a measuring tape to measure the distance between the two poles. Record the distance. Identity the direction of sediment movement by noting the position of the second pole in relation to the first pole. C. Analysing data 1. Draw a sketch showing the travelling path of the oranges Indicate the wind direction in your sketch. Suggest and explain the relationship between wind direction and sediment movement. 2. Note if there are any anomalies and suggest reasons for them, Consider whether there were any conditions that could have affected your results. 3. Observe if your findings agree with what you have learnt about sediment transport. Suggest reasons for the differences, if any. D, Presenting data Besides presenting yo for your audience to vcs done by including the f + Map of the ares showing 12 enough informatio: gnu your findings, This can b2 re data was collected, + Photograpiis stovsi methods of sat atures of the beach and the ection. E. 1, State whether the hypothesis ‘the direction of sediment movement is influenced by wind direction’ has been proven or disproven. If proven, accept the hypothesis. Otherwise, rejectit. 2. Reflect on the reliability of data collected by taking into account conditions which may have resulted in inaccuracies. Think of ways to minimise or prevent these} inaccuracies. 3. Evaluate the data collection methods used by assessing i they were the most appropriate. If they were not, suggest ways to improve the methods. Forming a conclusion TIP Further your analysis by predicting if changes in weather and ‘wave conditions over an extended period of time could change the movement of sediments. Scanned with CamScanner Sediment deposition Sediments eroded from the coast are transported away and deposited elsewhere. When wave energy decreases, the waves are unable to carry these sediments. Large sediments are deposited first, followed by smaller sediments. Deposited sediments vary in type and size, resulting in a variety of beaches. Figure 1.21 shows different types of sediments and their sizes. The location of coasts influences the deposition of sediments. In areas where coasts are sheltered from ‘strong winds, destructive waves are less common. Fine sediments are deposited along sheltered coasts with calm waters such as mangrove coasts. In deep bays sheltered by headlands, as in Figure 1.22, sandy beaches are common, On the other hand, coarser sediments are likely to settle in more exposed bays where there is higher wave energy to remove the finer sediments. 1. Explain how beach materials are transported along a coast. less than 0.0039 mm Chey Sit 0.0089 mm to 0.0628 Finesand «| 0.125 mm 100.25 mm Medium sand 0.28 mm 10.0.5 mm Coarse sand 0.5 mm to 1 mm. Very coarse sand 1mm to 2mm 2mm to 64 mm Pebble 2 OOO CR Cobble 64 mm to 256 mm Boulder | more than 256 mm Figure 1.21 Different sediment types and their sizes. 2. With reference to Figure 1.21, decide which sediment types are likely to be deposited in: a) Sheltered coasts; and b) Small bays. Scanned with CamScanner _D SVESTGATETHISO ED A. Hypothe After learning about sediment deposition and gradient of beach slope, conduct a fieldwork investigation to test the hypothesis: The steeper the wave, the steeper the beach gradient. Test this hypothesis at two diferent beaches. B, Collecting data To investigate the hypothesis, you need to: + Measure beach gradient; and + Calculate wave steepness. Equipment: + Protractor clinometer (refer to Chapter 4, page 265) Ranging poles ‘+ Measuring tape + Metre ruler + Calculator + Stopwatch + Recording sheet (Resource sheet 1.3) Procedure: 1. Before you set out to the beach fractsesing the protractor clinometer by measuring the gradient of the slopes in your school compound. Identify the steepest and gentlest slope in your school. 2. At each fieldwork site identity a line of transect on the beach from the edge of the water heading inland. Note that each group should identify different lines of transect along the beach. The lines of transect (a, b and c) are to be perpendicular to the shoreline. . Chapter! 1 COAST 3. Place the ranging poles along the line of transect. 4, Atthe seaward end of the transect, measure the beach Gradient using the protractor clinometer and record this value. Repeat this along the transect either i) where there is a change in beach gradient ori) at regular intervals of 2 metres ifthe beach has a constant gradient. Record the beach gradient values and associated distance along the line of transect. (Refer to Chapter 4, page 266 on how to measure beach gradient) 5. Atthe seaward end of the transect, calculate the wave steepness using the steps in ‘Investigate this ©. Analysing data 1. Plot the beach profile for each beach, with the x-axis, being the distance from the shoreline and the y-axis being the slope angle. (Refer to Chapter 4, page 256 on how to construct a beach profile). Compare the beach profiles drawn and associated wave steepness readings gathered by all groups. 2. Observe if your findings agree with what you have lea about wave steepness and beach gradient. Suggest reasons for the differences, if any. D. Presenting data Besides presenting your beach profile and wave steepr values, provide eno.ch information for your audience to understand your! nis can be done by including the following; + Map ofthe 2 2 showing where data was collected; and * Photographs showing features of the beach and the methods of data collection, E, Forming a conclusion 1. State whether the hypothesis the steeper the wave, the steeper the beach gradient’ has been proven or disproven. If proven, accept the hypothesis. Otherwise, reject it. 2, Reflect on the reliability of data collected by taking into account conditions which may have resulted in inaccuracies. Think of ways to minimise or prevent these inaccuracies. 4, Evaluate the data collection methods used by assessing if they were the most appropriate. f they were not, suggest ‘ways to improve the methods. Scanned with CamScanner 1 a ee eS In what ways do coastal landforms and features vary from place to place? Cited coasts or depositional coasts may form depending on the geology of different locations and the action of waves, tides and currents. Cliffed coasts ‘These coasts have some of the most dramatic landforms of all coastal environments. The landforms of clffed coasts include cliffs, shore platforms, headlands, bays, caves, arches and stacks. Cliffs and shore platforms A cliff refers to a steep and nearvertical rock face found along coasts. It is produced by the action of waves undercutting a steep, rocky coast. ro i Re ee Hydraulic action and ebrasion may erade a crack or jl ete aiecin f or enlarging the crack or joint to form a notch. en ee ai cane b) This notch may be fursher deepened to produce a bigger hollow space called a cave. ©) Further erosion by the waves eventually funtenepsen ly causes the roof of the cave to collapse and 4) As the process of erosion continues, an overhanging lif is formed. Eventually, tis ‘overhanging cliff will collapse and the materials wi it i ill be deposited at the foot of the cliff, sored "hese materials may be catied by waves and thrown against the base of the oi oe a lurther erosion. Over time, the cliff will retreat inland and a gently sloping platform appears at the base where the cliff used to be. This platform is called a shore platform, which is submerged during high tides. * Figure 1.23 Formation ofa cliff and shoe plationm, Scanned with CamScanner A. Guiding question After learning about cliffed coasts, conduct a fieldwork investigation using the guiding question: What are the coastal processes operating on a cliff? B, Collecting data To answer the guiding question, you need to: * Sketch the cliff profile; * Observe and annotate coastal landforms; and + Calculate wave frequency. Equipment: Clipboard ‘Ad-sized drawing paper ‘Sketching frame (refer to Chapter 4, pages 262-263) Pencil Eraser Stopwatch Procedure: 1. Look for a spot where you have a clear view of the coastal cliff. 2, Hold up your sketching frame and position it to focus on that area. 3. Using the lines on the border of the frame, imagine nine sections within the frame to help you position your landscape details. Sketch the coast including the cliff on the paper. Keep your sketching simple and neat. 4, Observe the types of sediments you find at the base of the cliff and the materials ofthe racks ofthe clit. 5. Count the number of waves that break in a minute for 5 minutes. Calculate the average number of waves per minute to get the wave frequency. 2 Analysing data 1. Analyse your cliff profile and the features of the cli 2. Examine the wave frequency and suggestif they are constructive (6 to 8 per minute) or destructive (10 to 14 per minute). 3. Suggest and explain the coastal processes operating » the cliff. D. Presenting data Write a report on the coastal proc cliff Include your sketch an¢ phot operating on the TAP Conduct an research to find out more about the coastal processes operating atthe clf you have investigated What did tha cif look lke § years, 10 years and 20 years ago? ‘© Are there any newspaper articles on how the cliff has changed | over the years? | aa Scanned with CamScanner Headlands and bays ‘Some coastlines have alternate bands of more resistant and less resistant rock arranged at right angles to the coast, as shown in Figure 1.24. The less resistant rocks will be eroded faster than the more resistant rocks. When the less resistant rocks are eroded away, bays are formed. These are wide indented coasts. The remaining more resistant rocks which extend into the sea are known as headlands. The south coast of the United Kingdom and ‘the east coast of Johor, Malaysia, are good places to see impressive headlands and bays. IT LINK The Jurassic Coast in England has impressive hneadlands and bays. Visit ‘nto /éwwow urassiceaast, ‘com ta lear more about ‘these coastal features. What are some other coastal features atthe Jurassic Coast? Scanned with CamScanner - Landforms are represented on topographical maps in specific ways. The topographical map below shows the landforms of a cliffed coast. 05 3 a Scale 1: 25,000 aaaep ae a resent tomtigen —> Snr nora ee wae Gawamesset ype Beery meant ter Senet cetitomen — f Mecedtontienns —— ERL Sentasygmsemnee Weide Segiiokey 257) a tt figs = coterondneema 1 MT een Large dam or weir er) Fock et ee Poy tri, ok be ech eg ga lon ie, Sr hee acts ae ‘rinlanon dat Pele satin, repre teagan Fre tan Sool Pstfice Figure 1.26 Topographical map showing a cliff caast in South West Rocks, Australia. Produced with permissin from: NSW Department of Finance and Services, Panorama Avenue, Balthust 2795; www.ipinswgov.au. Refer to Figure 1.26. 4) Identify the coastal feature at each of the following grid references: i) 072828 ii) 064842 b) What is the direction of South West Rocks {arid square 0483) from Monument Hill (grid square 0783)? c) What is the distance along the major road ‘ of Philip Drive between the caravan park in qd) e) grid square 0682 and the pumping station | ) at grid reference 051825? Which type of land use is the most widespread along the western edge of the ‘map? (Refer to Chapter 4, pages 232-234 on how to interpret map evidence.) ‘Why are there very few roads along the eastern coast of the map? (Refer to Chapter 4, page 237 on how to explain the relationship between reli and communi What leisure faci ‘area shown on this map? Connect €>. Learn more about topographical map read skills in Chapter 4, Gate Scanned with CamScanner ae Uhdprert beets Caves, arches and stacks ¥ fa cae ves altac te base of headland and andere i. h cave is forwed. Sea b) bech et tacking waves break throu the back wall (of caves and jin them together, ba arch formed. ais / cdapses, lenin behind a sack, Sea. Figure 1.27 Formation ofa cave, an arch and a stack a) Within headiands, some rocks may be less resistant to erosion than other rocks. These parts of the headlands will be eroded more quickly, especially by hydraulic action and abrasion. Waves attack lines of weakness (eg. joints and faults) at the base of the headland and undercut it. The continuous action of waves forms a cave at the area that is hollowed by wave action. b) Caves may develop on each side of the headland. Erosion may eventually join caves together, leaving a Keiaienrneodae Ta Figure 1.30 stack in ‘James Bond Island’, Thailand, ¢) After a period of time, the roof of the arch may collaps to forma stack. A stack is a pillar of rock in the sea lef behind after an arch collapses. Caves, arches and stacks are usually not shown « topographical maps as they cannot be seen at the sce ‘at which most maps are drawn. Scanned with CamScanner Depositional coasts Along depositional coasts, sediments are deposited more quickly than they are eroded. Landforms such as beaches, spits and tombolos are found along depositional coasts. Beaches A beach is a zone of sediment deposition, usually forrned from loose sand, gravel, pebbles, broken shells and corals, or a mixture of these materials. Figure 1.31 shows a beach formed from pebbles. Beach materials may come from eroded cliffs, river deposits and sediments carried by waves. ‘The composition and size of the materials on the beach vary greatly. The composition of materials depends on the source of materials. The size of materials may change over time due to changes in wave energy or changes in the source of materials. ‘The slope of the beach is determined by grain size. Finer grain sizes tend to result in beaches with a gentle gradient. On the other hand, materials of coarser grains form beaches with a steeper gradient. Beaches are constantly changing as their shapes are affected daily by waves, tides and currents. For example, during calm weather, constructive waves can help deposit materials, on the beach and build it up further. On the other hand, during coastal storms, strong waves will erode and remove materials from the beach, Scanned with CamScanner The table shows the mean sediment size ina scatter graph on graph paper and dr and beach gradient along a beach. Present the data ‘aw the line of best ft, using the x- and y- axis given. \h and the line of best (Refer to Chapter 4, pages 253 and 254 on how to construct a scatter grapl r fit) Then state the suggested relationship between sediment size and beach gradient. Suggest reasons for the relationship between the sediment size and beach gradient. Beach gradient (*) Sedinvent sie ve J ivisncaTe so A. Hypothesis Atter learning about sediment size and beach slope, conduct a fieldwork investigation to test the hypothesis: The bigger the sediment size, the gentler the beach slope. B. Collecting data To investigate the hypothesis, you need to: * Collect and analyse beach sediments; and + Measure beach gradient. Equipment: + Vernier caliper (refer to Chapter 4, page 268) * Measuring tape orruler * Magnifying glass * Sieves (refer to Chapter 4, page 267) 035 06 04 03 025 03 035) 04 ‘* Recording sheet (Resource sheet 1.5) Resource sheet 1.5 Procedure: 1. Along a selected section of the coast, identify a line ¢ transect. 2. Atthe seaward end of the transect, measure the beaj gradient and collect a sample of sediments. Repeat thy at regular intervals along the transect (e.g. every 2 metres) or where there is a change in beach gradiew (Refer to Chapter 4, page 267-268 on how to conduct) sampling to collect sediments.) 3. Number the sediment samples and bring them back t your laboratory in school. Scanned with CamScanner 4, Ifthe sediments are fine, sort them according to size using sieves. 5. Ifthe sediments are coarse, measure their axes (widest part) using vernier calipers. Record your findings in the recording sheet. 6. Refer to Figure 1.21 and match the size of the sediments with the sediment type. C. Analysing data 1. Using the data collected, plot a scatter graph in your recording sheet. Draw the line of best ft, where an equal number of variables are above and below the line. Suggest and explain the relationship, 2. Note any anomalies and suggest reasons for them. Consider whether there were any conditions that could have affected your results. 3. Observe if your findings agree with what you have learnt about sediment size and beach gradient. Suggest reasons for the differences, if any. INVESTIGATE aS D, Presenting data Besides presenting your scatter graph, provide enough information for your audience to understand your findings. This can be done by including the following: + Map of the area showing where data was collected; and + Photographs showing features of the cliff and the methods of data collection. E, Forming a conclusion 1. State whether the hypothesis ‘the bigger the sediment size, the gentler the beach slope’ has been proven or disproven. If proven, accept the hypothesis. Otherwise, reject it, 2, Reflect on the reliability of data collected by taking into account conditions which may have resulted in inaccuracies of the data. Think of ways to minimise or prevent these inaccuracies. 3. Evaluate the data collection methods used by assessing if they were the most appropriate. If they were not, suggest ways to improve the methods. Study Figure 1.32. Suggest a hypothesis about the size and distribution of the materials along the beach and propose a method to test the hypothesis. Figure 1.32 A beach at Charmouth Beach, United Kingdom, Scanned with CamScanner v Spits and tombolos ; A spit is a long, narrow ridge of sediments with one end attached to the land. A spit is formed by longshore drift. Where there is an abrupt bend in the coastline, longshore drift ™ay continue to transport materials in the original direction for some distance. The materials are deposited in the sea after the bend where they accumulate over time along the original direction of the coastline. This forms a ridge of sediments from the point where the coastline changes direction. A hook or curve may develop at one end of the spit, most likely due to ‘wave refraction concentrating at that point. Figure 1.33a) A spit in Cape Pakarang, southern Figure 1.33b) Formation of a sri i? saci A spit has one end connected to a mainland and has another end projecting out into the sea. If an offshore island lies near the mainland where the spit is forming, the spit may continue to extend until it connects the offshore island to the mainland. This new landform is called a tombolo. A tombolo may also join two existing islands. Figure 1.34 A tombolo in Bintan island, Indonesia. Scanned with CamScanner aceumuiate and vise above: the water surface, 1. Explain how caves such as the one shown in Figure 1.28 are formed by wave action. 2. With the aid of diagrams, suggest how the beach shown in Figure 1.31 may have developed. 3. How will materials eroded from headlands, cliffs and stacks further affect erosion in the same area in the future? 4. Changi Beach is a wide spit measuring about 600 metres on the east-northeast coast of Singapore as seen in Figure 1.36. This spitis a very popular place among beachgoers and park visitors. a) With reference to what you have learnt about coastal processes, explain how an extension of the spit might occur. b) Ifthe changes occur, in what direction will the spit extend? Use a pencil and draw on the map. c} Give evidence to show that human activities are taking place on Changi Spit. } Suggest two reasons why Changi Spit is important to Singapore. } Explain how the possible extension of the spit will affect human activity. Figure 1.36 Map extract ofa spit along Changi Beach in Singapore. Adapted from: Streetdirectorycom. Scanned with CamScanner Use the following questions to check your understanding and apply what you have learnt. 1 Name the coastal erosion processes which occur on a cliffed coast. a) Name three coastal landforms that are the result of deposition. b) With the aid of well-labelled diagrams, explain the formation of a tombolo. What is the difference between constructive waves and destructive waves? Explain how waves can both erode and build up a beach at different times. Refer to Figure 1.23. Explain how the cliff and shore platform are formed by wave action. Explain with the aid of a well-labelled diagram how headlands and bays are formed. With reference to Figure 1.37, draw an annotated sketch to show the processes responsible for the formation of the coastal landform in the foreground. 8. Refer to Figure 1.38. a) What is the grid reference of the bridgyy where Hermin Grenier Road crosses o\ river? b) In which direction does the Public Bea, Le Gris Gris lie from the Government Vocational Centre (983644)? ©) What is the average gradient of Main , between grid references 993645 and ( d) Describe the coast between eastings and 1. e) Suggest how the angle of slope at the Beach near Le Gris Gris at grid referer 9864 can be determined f) Suggest the type of waves operating coast and describe their characteristic 9) Explain why swimming near grid refer 987641 is risky and not recommender Scanned with CamScanner rRHETY eer 328 i au Scanned with CamScanner 9. Study the feature in grid reference 982641 in Figure 1.38. a) Suggest a possible resultant landform that may emerge over time due to coastal Processes. b) Draw a well-labelled diagram to show the formation of the resultant landform. 10. Refer to Figure 1.39. a) What appears to be the main factors causing some of California's beaches to disappear? b) In what way could these beaches ‘replenish themselves’ naturally? foe eee ee A | Southern California beach erosion is worst in a decade In southern California, powerful winter storms have swept away a spectacular amount of sand. ‘The vanishing beaches have forced city crews in Dana Point to remove fire rings, picnic tables and shower pads so lifeguards have room to patrol the remaining sand. “This year it was just plain rock pile,” said Ken Frank, city manager of Laguna Beach. “Forget the beach.” “The amount of sand taken away from Doheny is going to take many, many years to replenish, if it does replenish at all.” The storms’ scouring of the southern California shoreline, which is remarkable at some beaches and barely noticeable at others, has caused the worst damage and most significant beach erosion in at least a decade, according to parks and bi In January and February, pov. tides and strong winds swept av the coastline, stealing as much as % ~ 9 feet (10t0 13 metres) of beachfront at some lo» -"0s, Figure 1.39 An article on beach erosion in southern California, United Sts of America. Adapted from: Los Angeles Times (2 April 2010) Scanned with CamScanner GATEWAY Why are coastal areas valuable? Chapter] | COASTS 33 Figure 1.40 The Jurassic Coast spans over 180 kilometres from East Devon to Dorset, Eng distinctive coastal landforms shawn in Figures 1.41-1 43. If you wanted to find fossils of a dinosaur, where would you go? To the Jurassic Coast! On the Jurassic Coast in England, you can find fossil evidence of flora and fauna from 245 to 65 million years ago! This was the time of the dinosaurs. Few other places offer the quality, abundance or diversity of fossils found here. Microfossils, which ‘are a group of fossils, are valuable not just to scientists and collectors, but also to cil explorers. This is because microfossils help oil explorers locate hydrocarbon, a source of combustible fuel. These are just some reasons why the Jurassic Coast is valuable. The landforms along the Jurassic Coast are affected by physical processes and human activites. Wind, rain and waves constantly erode cliffs along the coast, making the coast unstable, People walking on the cliffs make the soil compact and destroy vegetation, causing the cliffs to be more unstable. itis important to protect the Jurassic Coast as it is an area of exceptional natural beauty. The Jurassic Coast was declared a World Heritage Site 2002 because it is representative ‘of geological processes in the development of coastal landforms. 1. Identify some of the landforms along the Jurassic Coast as seen from the photographs (Figures 1.40-1.43). 2. Inwhat ways and to which groups of people is the Jurassic Coast valuable? 3, What are some of the threats to the coastline of the Jurassic Coast? 4. a) Name a coastal aea in the tropics. b) Where is it? (o) Why do you think this area is valuable?

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