BuildingNeckbeardWizardsTVGamingTable v1.0.6 Compressed

Building Neckbeard Wizard’s
TV Gaming Table
Version 1.0.6
(updated 1/30/2022)
A comprehensive guide to building your own TV Gaming Table
By Abram Adams
© Copyright 2022
A Note from the Neckbeard Wizard: 4
Safety 5
About 5
Tools Required 6
Parts List 7
Step 1 - Building the TV box 9

TV Requirements 10
TV Recommendations 10
Step 1.1 - Measure the TV Width 10
Step 1.2 - Cut the TV Box Boards 11
Step 1.3 - Cut a Notch for the IR Sensor (IF NEEDED) 11
Step 1.4 - Measure the TV Height 12
Step 1.5 - Assemble the TV Box 13
Step 1.6 - TV Supports 14
Step 2 - Building the Table Base 17

Step 2.1 - Make Cut-Out for TV Box 18
Step 2.2 - Attach the TV Box 21
Step 2.3 - Base Supports 23
Step 2.4 - Trim 27
Step 3 - Build the “Leaning Edge” 31

Step 3.1 - Cut Leaning Edge Boards 32
Options 32
Miter Joint Option 32
Cutting with Miter Saw 33
Cutting with Circular Saw 33
Cutting at the Hardware Store 33
Butt Joint Option 35
Step 3.2 - Cut “Dog Ear” Notches 36
Step 3.3 - Cupholders 38
Measure 39
Cut the holes 41
Step 3.4 - Dice Trays 41
Measure 42
Cut 47
Trim 47
Dice Tray Bottoms 49
Step 4 - Build the Leaning Edge Supports 50

Step 4.1 - End Pieces 50
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Step 4.2 - TV Vault Walls 52
Step 4.3 - Dog Ear Walls 53
Step 4.4 - Player Cubby Separators 55
Step 4.5 - DM Cabinet/Short TV Vault Walls 55
Step 4.6 - Cutout for DM Station Electrical Box 56
Step 5 - Installing the Leaning Edge Supports 58

Step 5.1 Dry Fit Supports 59
Step 5.2 Secure Leaning Edge Supports 59
Step 5.3 Cubby Separators/Supports 60
Step 6 - Stain Inner Sections 61
Step 7 - Install Leaning Edge 62

Step 7.1 Reinforce Leaning Edge Joints 63
Step 7.2 - Secure Leaning Edge 64
Step 7.3 (Optional) - Wood Inlay Over Seam - Advanced Technique 65
Step 8 - TV Vault Cover 69

Step 8.1 - Topper Ledge 69
Step 8.2 - Topper Boards 70
Step 8.3 - Center Topper Boards 71
Step 8.4 - DM Cabinet Door 73
Step 9 - Legs and Bottom Shelf 74

Step 9.1 - Build Legs 75
Step 9.2 - Install Legs 75
Step 9.3 - Bottom Shelf Box 77
Step 9.4 - Bottom Shelf Top 78
Step 9.5 - Install Bottom Shelf 78
Step 10 - Bookshelf Unit (optional) 80

Step 10.1 Cut the Box Walls 80
Step 10.2 Drill Holes for Adjustable Shelves 80
Step 10.3 - Assemble Bookshelf Walls 82
Step 10.4 - Bookshelf Backing 82
Step 10.5 - Bookshelf Shelves 82
Step 10.6 - Install Bookshelf Unit 83
Step 11 - Sand & Stain 83
Step 12 - Wiring 84
Step 13 - Lighting (optional, but really cool) 92
Step 14 - Foam Boarding the TV Vault & Dice Trays 94
A Note from the Neckbeard Wizard:
Thank you for purchasing my “Building Neckbeard Wizard’s TV Gaming Table” guide! This
guide is the culmination of countless hours planning, drawing, measuring, cutting and doing it
wrong enough times to finally get it right. It is my hope that your small investment in this guide
saves you many times over in the time and frustration that projects like this are in no short
supply.
I would encourage you to pace yourself on this project. Don’t expect to have it done in a
weekend. It will likely take 30-40 (or more) hours to build (depending on tools, supplies,
experience, etc…). I’ve generally built them over a 2-3 week period, working on them part time.
So set expectations accordingly and prepare to have some fun!
The best part is you’re not alone. Since you purchased this guide, you should have received an
invite to our closed community of builders where you can ask questions, seek advice (or share
advice) with builders like yourself. I’ll be there to help in any way I can and would love any
feedback you may have to make this guide even better for the next builder.
⚠ Didn’t get an invite? Email me at [email protected] with the email used ⚠

to make the purchase and I’ll get you setup
Please check www.neckbeardwizard.com for other TTRPG related products and plans (more to
come!!)
-- Abram Adams
The Neckbeard Wizard
Safety
First things first. Working with wood, tools and electricity comes with risk. Please take every
precaution before proceeding with the build. Use appropriate protection (eyewear, gloves, etc..)
while working on the table. If you aren’t comfortable with working with electric wiring, using
power tools, or working with a heavy wood table, please seek a professional to help.
Build at your own risk.
About
Difficulty - Medium
This table build is not a highly technical build, nor is it an easy weekend project (unless you are
really, really efficient). Each time I’ve built this table I’ve done so in about 40 hours, which I
typically spread across a week or three. Granted, a lot of that time was spent drawing plans,
engineering the precise dimensions for each player space, calculating lumber, making mistakes,
staring at the project and wondering what else I could add or how I should proceed, etc…
Fortunately for you, you were smart enough to buy this guide! This will take much of the trial
and error out of the build, and give you a consistent result, no matter how many times you build
it (trust me, once people see your table, they’ll want their own).
Skill Level - Beginner to Advanced

In this guide I make no assumptions about your woodworking experience, so I do go into some
details that may be obvious for you; or may be enlightening. I also offer alternatives in several
cases when there is more than one technique to accomplish the task. I leave it up to you to
choose, based on the tools available to you and your comfort level. Regardless of what you go
with, the table is going to look and work amazing.
Resources - www.neckbeardwizard.com
Along with this guide, you have full access to our build community composed of at least myself
and any other builder that has purchased these plans. There you can ask any build related
questions and I will do my best to answer. I’ll also be posting short videos to help demonstrate
some of the complicated sections of the build.
In addition, this document will be updated per feedback from builders like you. If you find an
area particularly difficult to understand or has some inaccuracies, please let me know by
submitting your comments at www.neckbeardwizard.com/contact
Measurements
All measurements in this guide use the imperial measurement system. The lumber listed in the
parts list and used in this build are dimensions common in American hardware/lumber stores. If
there is demand, I will publish another version with metric measurements.
Tools Required
Tools
Measuring Tape
Pencil
Miter / "Chop saw"
Cordless Drill
Table Saw Optional
Circular Saw
Router Optional
Hole cutting saw drill bits (for cup holder) Optional, but highly, highly recommended
Concealed hinge router/drill bit (make sure Optional (can use drill/chisel, but highly recommended)
correct size for hinge)
Jig Saw
Brad/Nail Gun Optional (can substitute with hammer and finish nails)
Hammer Optional (can use brad/nail gun)
Orbit sander/sandpaper
Staple Gun (manual or powered)
Razor Knife/Utility Knife Best to use a break-away style razor knife or have extra
blades
Speed Square
Level or Metal edge Ruler
T Square Optional
Scissors
Pocket Hole Jig Optional
Track Saw Optional (for inlay, could use router instead)
Chisel Optional (for inlay)
DEWALT DW2701 #8 Drill Flip Drive or similar Optional (makes pre-drilling much easier)
¼” Drill bit
⅝” Drill bit
⅕” Drill bit Optional for pre-drilling (not needed if using drill flip
drive)
Parts List
Lumber Used for/Description Quantity
2”x4”x8’ Fir Stud Frame/Legs 7
1”x6”x10’ Whitewood Board TV Box/Bottom Shelf Box 1
1”x6”x8’ Whitewood Board TV Box/Bottom Shelf Box 2
¼” x 4’ x 4’ Pine Sanded Plywood Bottom Shelf 1
1”x4”x8’ Whitewood Board Leaning edge support/TV Vault Walls 5
1”x12”x6’ Whitewood Board Leaning edge 1
1”x12”x8’ Whitewood Board Leaning edge/Topper 4
¾” Sanded Plywood 4’x8’ Table Base 1
¾” x ¼” x 8’ Pine trim Trim around outer edge and inside dice trays 6
½” x ¾” x 8’ Pine trim Ledge for topper 2
⅛”x2’x4’ Tempered Hardboard (masonite sheet) Dice tray bottoms 1
¼” x 2’ x 4’ Birch Sanded Plywood Bookshelf unit (Optional) 1
Electrical Used for/Description Quantity
40ft brown outdoor power cord Power cord for table * Way too long.... 1
14/2 Wiring 25ft 1
1 Gang shallow electric box DM electric outlet 7
Plastic wire clamps Wire management 1
Electric Outlets Brown or Black to match table. 7
Outlet plates Brown or Black to match table. 7
HDMI Wall Plate Brown or Black to match table. 1

High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable - 6 Feet 1
HYCC 2" Flexible Desk Grommet -New- Color:
Black - 5 Pack 1
Finish Used for/Description Quantity
Minwax PolyShade Stain 2
12”x18”x5mm Craft Foam Sheets TV Vault 5
12”x18”x2mm Craft Foam Sheets Dice trays 2
Cupholder inserts 10 pack 1
DAP Weldwood 3-oz Contact Cement 1
220 Grit Sandpaper 1
100 Grit Sandpaper 1
000 Grit Steel Wool 1
Hardware/Supplies Used for/Description Quantity
16-fl oz Titebond II Premium Wood Glue 1
Minwax Wood Filler 1
1 lb #9 2 1/2 inch Gold Screws/Wood Screws For 2x4 frame/legs 1
#6 x 1 1/4 inch Flat Coarse Thread Drywall
Screws (100-Count) For everything else 1
1/4-in x 3-1/2-in Zinc-Plated Coarse Thread
Carriage Bolt To fasten legs to frame 8
1/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Flat Washer 8
1/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Nylon Insert
Lock Nut 8
#6 x 1/2-in Silver Flat Interior Wood Screws
(100-Count) 1
20 Gauge staples (if using brad nail gun with
staples, make sure to get the appropriate
staples for your gun) 1
1.5-in x 0.75-in x 0.75-in Steel Corner (OPTIONAL - Only used if building
Brace(4-Pack) bookshelf unit) 1
5-in x 1-13/16-in 20-Gauge Galvanized Nail
Plates (OPTIONAL - Substitute with below) 1
3 in. x 6 in. 20-Gauge Galvanized Mending
Plate (OPTIONAL - Substitute with above) 1
2-in 18-Gauge Pneumatic Finish Nails
(1000-Count) 1
1-in 18-Gauge Pneumatic Finish Nails
(1000-Count) 1
3 1/2 Caster Wheels 4
5/16-in x 1-in Silver Zinc-Plated Hex-Head
Interior Lag Screws 16
1/2-in Bright Nickel Concealed Cabinet Hinge 2
Step 1 - Building the TV box
The entire table is built around the TV, so it's important to build this piece first. Have the TV you
intend to install in the table ready for this step.
For this step you will need:

Parts (see Parts List):
● 2 x 1”x6”x8’ Whitewood Boards
● 18 gauge brad nails or finish nails
● 1 1/4 inch Drywall Screws
Tools:
● Miter Saw
● Brad/Nail Gun or Hammer
● Speed Square
● Measuring Tape/Pencil
TV Requirements
● Use a 40-43” LED TV with as small of a bezel as possible (the frame around the screen).
📔
This will maximize the TV screen space while still fitting inside our table dimensions.
NOTE: The height of the TV must not exceed 24 inches!
📔
● Make sure the TV stand/legs can be removed and the TV has a rectangular bezel.
NOTE: Some TV’s have the remote control receiver protruding from the bezel. This
is ok as long as it doesn’t protrude more than ¾ inches. We’ll cut out a notch in the TV
box to accommodate this.
TV Recommendations
● It is recommended to use a Smart TV with WiFi capabilities. This allows you more
options to connect to the device as well as makes it versatile in what you can display on
the screen with or without a computer attached.
● Use as high definition as your budget allows. A 1080p or 4k TV will look stunning, while
anything lower will show pixelation since you and your players will be situated so close to
the screen.
Step 1.1 - Measure the TV Width

Start with laying the TV down, screen first on a flat surface. I recommend placing a blanket
down first so as to not scratch the screen or bezel.
With it laying flat, use a tape measure and measure the width of the TV. Transfer that
📔
measurement to the 1”x6”x8’ Whiteboard/Pine board (refer to parts list).
NOTE: When doing so, add 1/8th of an inch to ensure that the TV will fit snug, but not too
tight.
Step 1.2 - Cut the TV Box Boards
Once you have transferred your measurement to the 1”x6”x8’ board, cut the board using a miter
saw (aka chop saw) making sure to place the blade on the outside of the line. If you place the
blade directly on the line, the width of the blade will eat into the piece making it slightly smaller
than desired.
Once that is done, measure to make sure the board length is the length desired, then repeat the
steps to create a second identical piece. Place the remaining sections of these boards aside as
they will be used in step 9 to build the bottom shelf unit.
Step 1.3 - Cut a Notch for the IR Sensor (IF NEEDED)

This step is only required if your TV has an IR sensor (or any other part) that protrudes beyond
the bezel edge. If your TV has a part protruding from the bezel, you’ll need to notch that out so
that the TV can be “dropped” into the box and sit flush with the edges of the box. To do this,
simply line the board up with the TV, then mark on the board where the edges of the protrusion
are, giving it about a 1/16th of an inch extra on each side to ensure it's not too snug. Then, with
the TV still screen side down, measure from the front of the screen to the top of the protrusion to
determine how deep your notch needs to be (giving an extra ¼ inch will ensure a proper fit and
will not be visible).
Once you have marked your lines, use a jigsaw to cut out (as shown below)
Step 1.4 - Measure the TV Height

This step is simple, but if missed will lead to headaches down the line. We’ll need to make
these next boards 1 ½ inches longer than the height of the TV as these pieces will overlap or
“cap” the wide boards made in step 2. See below how the vertical boards are capping the
edges of the horizontal boards:
You can measure the height of the TV then
add 1 ½ inches to accommodate for the the
thickness of the wide pieces (¾ inch each
side) or you can do what I like to do and
stand the horizontal boards in place on the
edges of the TV, then with your remaining
1”x6” board, dry fit it and take your
measurements this way. This ensures a
proper fit without the hassle of measuring.
Once you have made your mark, cut the

board using the miter saw. Then assemble
the boards around the TV (without nailing
yet) to make sure it fits properly.
Step 1.5 - Assemble the TV Box

Now that you have cut all four walls of the box it's time to put it all
together. Assemble the box on a flat surface (away from the TV this
time), making sure that the smaller pieces overlap/cap the longer
pieces and that the edges line up flush. Then using a nail gun (or
finish nails and a hammer), nail all four sides together. Make sure the
nails are at least 1 ½ inches from the top edge of the box to prevent
any splits or bent nails from breaking the surface on the edge that will
be visible on the table.
The purpose of these nails is not to give it structural integrity, but rather just to hold it together
and keep its shape while we move to the next steps. Additional supports added later on will
make this a very sturdy box.
Now that you have a box it's time to check to make sure our TV still fits. Lift the box and set it
on top of the TV (which is still face down on a flat surface). Make sure the box easily slides over
the TV and sits flush with the surface the TV is laying on. If it fits, great! Leave it there for the
next step. If it doesn’t, make the necessary adjustments to make things right. If the TV fits but
feels too snug, that can be fixed with some good sanding later. If it’s too loose it will be ok, but
will detract from the clean/professional look of the table.
Step 1.6 - TV Supports

With any needed adjustments made and the box still on the TV (which is still laying on a
flat/even surface) make sure the TV and box are flush with the surface they are laying on. Then
measure the box from the inside edge at the bottom of the TV to the inside edge at the top of
the TV and transfer that measurement to one of the 1”x4”x8’ boards (refer to the Parts List)
Cut three boards of the exact same measurements and return to the TV box. Dry fit them in the
TV box by laying them directly on the TV (do not secure yet). Place one on each side of the TV
and one somewhat centered. Be sure not to cover any ports on the back of the TV, especially
the power and HDMI ports.
When done it should look something like this:
The back of most TV’s is not flat, but rather has angles and raised portions. The objective here
is to make these boards lay flat against the TV, which will likely mean the boards will be at odd
angles:
This is very much ok as it will hold the TV at the perfect angle to be a flat and level playing
surface for your games!
If everything fits like it should, secure these pieces with 1 ¼ inch drywall screws (see Parts List)
keeping the boards resting firmly on the TV. Be sure to pre-drill the holes so as not to split the
board when tightening the screws. Two screws per board will be sufficient and will prevent the
boards from twisting.
Finally, from the scrap 1”x4” boards, cut 6 blocks about 2-3 inches in length. These blocks will
support the TV supports and ensure that the weight of the TV doesn’t cause the supports to fail.
Place these blocks on each end of the supports and fasten them to the TV box with two drywall
screws each (again, pre-drill first).
Now that these boards are fastened, you can lift the box off of the TV and store the TV in a safe
place for now. We’ll build the rest of the table and drop the TV back once we’re near the end.
Congratulations, you have completed your first component in the table build! If you’ve made it
this far, then you have what it takes to complete the table. Stick with it, and reach out if you
have any questions.
Step 2 - Building the Table Base
The table base makes up the bottom shelf of the table as well as the TV vault and DM station
surface.

● 1 sheet of 4’x8’ Sanded Plywood
● 2 x 2”x4”x8’ framing studs (find the best quality ones you can at your lumber store)
● 4 x 3/4”x1/4” Pine Trim
● 1 TV Box created in the previous section.
● 2 1/2 inch Wood Screws
● 18 gauge brad nails
● Sheet of 5mm craft foam
Tools:
● Table or large workbench with clean flat surface (optional; can alternatively use flat
surface on the ground and saw horses)
● Circular Saw (optional, but preferred for straight cuts)
● Jigsaw
● Miter Saw
● Brad/Nail Gun or Hammer
● Drill with Phillips (star) driver bit and ⅕” drill bit (See Tools Required list for a 3-in-1 I used
to pre-drill the holes, countersink and drive the screws)
● Orbit Sander (or sandpaper and elbow grease)
● Measuring Tape
● Speed Square
● T Square, YardStick or Level or Ruler (at least 3ft long with a straight edge)
Step 2.1 - Make Cut-Out for TV Box

Inspect your sheet of 4’x8’ sanded plywood to determine if one end looks better than the other
(e.g. has less knots or blemishes). Note that side and make it the DM station side (simply write
DM on that end on the non-sanded side of the plywood. Then lay it on either a flat table or on a
hard flat surface of the ground (e.g. cement floor) with the sanded side facing down.
On the end that you determined to be the DM station, measure from the edge 18” (long ways)
and mark it. Make 2 or 3 of these 18” markers about 12” apart down that end of the table, Then
using a T Square (or alternative) draw a straight line connecting those marks:
Now, measure from that line, measure 39” and mark it. Then move down 12” or so and repeat,
making additional marks at 39” from the DM line. Once you have reached the end of the table,
place your T Square (or alternative) on the plywood aligning the dotted lines and draw a straight
line from near one edge to near the other edge (does not have to go all the way to the edge).
Finally, at the DM line measure 2’ from the long edge toward the center. Move over 12” or so
and repeat, marking at 2’ all the way to the other end of the plywood. Then with your T Square
(or alternative), align along the marks and draw a straight line from the DM line to the other
edge of the plywood. Once the lines are drawn, the plywood should look like this:
Next, grab the TV box you made in the last section and measure the outside length and divide
by 2. That’s the center of the box length. Draw a vertical line on the outside of the box at that
measurement on both sides. Then measure the width, divide by 2 and draw vertical lines on the
outside of both of those sides.
📔 NOTE: If you’re like me, dividing fractions may not seem that fun. It’s OK to cheat and
use a fraction calculator. A quick google search for “inch calculator for measurements” will likely
get you what you need.
Finally, place the TV box onto the plywood and line up the cross lines with the lines on each of
the four sides of the box.
With the TV box lined up with all 4 lines, press down on the TV box to make sure it does not
move, then with a pencil, trace the outer outline of the TV box onto the plywood. You can now
set the TV box aside.
Following the box outline you drew, use a circular saw to cut out the box. You’ll want to carefully
plunge the blade onto the line - keeping the blade on the inside of the box outline as much as
possible and stop just short of the corners of the outline. Once all four sides are cut, finish the
uncut corners with a jigsaw to free the rectangle from the rest of the base.
📔 NOTE: If you have not used a circular saw before or haven’t used a plunge cut method,
please take the time to research it first. There are plenty of youtube videos on the subject. If
you’re still not comfortable with it, no problem. Drill a ¾ inch hole an inch or so inside the line,
then use a jigsaw to cut along the box outline. The line will likely not be as straight, but this part
😁
of the table gets covered in craft foam so you’ll be the only one who knows how bad that line
turned out .
Step 2.2 - Attach the TV Box

Now that we have an opening for the TV box, it’s time to place it into the base. With the
plywood still sanded side down on a flat surface, place the TV box into the cutout you made in
the previous step. Be sure to face the “top edge” of the TV box down. If your TV requires that
you cut out a notch in the previous section, make sure that notch is on the appropriate side. I
find it better to have the bottom of the TV screen on the left edge of the table (from the DM
station’s point of view). This makes operating the TV from a laptop more natural. So if your
notch is on the bottom of the TV, place the notched side of the TV box on the right hand side
(from the DM station’s point of view) so that when you flip the table right side up it will be on the
left. Phew, hope that makes sense.
With the TV box in place, but not yet fastened, lift one edge of the plywood near a corner you
cut out and slide a sheet of 5mm craft foam (see Parts List) up to the edge of the TV box. Do
not let the foam go under the TV box, just up to the edge. This will give you proper spacing to
allow the TV and TV box to sit flush with the foam padded surface of the TV vault.
With the foam securely in place, push down the TV box to make sure it is flush with the surface,
and press down the plywood to make sure it is flush with the craft foam, then with a nail gun,
secure just that edge from inside the box into the plywood with a couple nails. It is important to
only secure the edge where you have craft foam.
📔 NOTE: Be careful to shoot the nails directly parallel with the plywood so that the nails
don’t break the surface of the top of the plywood. If this does happen (usually happens to me),
it's not the end of the world, just use some needle nose pliers to rock the nail back and forth until
it breaks off. Remember, this will be covered with foam.
Lift the plywood and slide the craft foam down toward the other side of the TV box opening
(again being careful not to place it under the TV box) and press the box and plywood down to
ensure it is flush. Then with the nail gun, secure that edge. Repeat this process around the
parameter of the TV box until secure all the way around.
Step 2.3 - Base Supports
So far you have built the TV box and the base and have tacked it together with nails (or screws).
This will hold it in place, but doesn’t give enough structural strength for a table where heated
fantasy battles will take place. For this (and to support other components) we’ll add supports.
The supports of this table are made with the 2”x4” framing studs (see Parts List). These will be
under the table, but will still be visible from the side view of the table (or when players reach
down to plug their electronic devices into the built-in outlets). That being said, you’ll want to
select a couple 2”x4”’s that have the least amount of blemishes (or at least the outward facing
side does). It is also easier to sand these before installing, so pick a side you want to be the
“outside” and sand it with a 150-220 grit sandpaper. It doesn’t have to be glass smooth, but
you’ll want to remove any branding or marks and make it somewhat presentable.
📔 NOTE: While on the subject of sanding and making things presentable, the rule of thumb
is that the higher up the piece you go, the finer the detail should be. Meaning, the tabletop you
want to be very smooth and uniform, because it is closer to the eyes and people will notice.
However the supports under the table will not get as much scrutiny. Use your best judgement
on how “finished” you want each section to be, and remember that 3 years from now you
probably won’t say: “wow, I wish I would have sanded that less…”
Measure and cut the two 2”x4”’s to a length of 6’ 9”. These will make up the supports that will
run along the long edge of the TV box.
Now, since these pieces will potentially be in knee range for those sitting at the DM station or
the station opposite, you’ll need to taper the ends of the boards.
You can either use the miter saw to cut a 45degree angle (making sure to maintain the same
length of the board), or use a circular saw or jigsaw to cut a tapered end. The more extreme the
angle, the less in the way it’ll be.
(2”x4” Side view)
Optional: If you are also building the optional book shelf unit, there’s an additional step. Take
one of the supports you just made and measure and cut 3 inches off of the end. This will allow
enough space for the shelf unit to be attached under the desk:
Once cut, give the cut ends a good sanding to smooth out any imperfections and to round the
sharp edges. It should look something like this when you’re done.
Now with the table base still laying flat with the sanded side down, dry fit these to boards on
either side of the TV box as shown below:
The alignment of these supports should be 6 inches from the start of the taper to the edge of the
box on the edge opposite the DM station:
This will give us a base to attach the legs to later.
With the tapered supports in place, secure to the side of the TV box using 1 1/4 inch drywall
screws (see Parts List) from inside the box into the 2”x4” board.
Now measure from the inside edge of one support to the inside edge of the other along the
edge of the TV box’s short edge and with a new 2”x4”x8’, measure and cut 2 pieces based on
that measurement.
Place those newly cut pieces between the tapered supports against the TV box and secure to
the tapered supports with 2 1/2 inch wood screws (see Parts List). Then secure to the side of
the TV box using 1 1/4 inch drywall screws, from inside the TV box into the 2”x4” board.
Now your table base is starting to get some structural integrity. Next step is to flip it over and
sink a few more screws into the supports from above.
Carefully flip the table base over, ideally onto a table, workbench or saw horses as the base will
stay in this position for the remainder of the build.
Then starting along the outer edge of the TV box, set several 1 1/4 inch drywall screws (see
Parts List) around the entire box into the support studs. Then set 2-3 screws on each side
beyond the TV box into the support studs. Be careful not to set any screws within 18” of the
edge of the DM station. This area will be the DM’s table surface, so you’ll want that to be
pristine.
Step 2.4 - Trim
The last order of business is to wrap all four edges of the plywood base with trim. This will hide
the ugly edges of the plywood and will allow the stain to have a more consistent shade with the
rest of the table. Without the trim, stain will soak into the edges easier than the surface so will
📔
be darker and more porous.
NOTE: If you’ve never done trim before, you may want to watch some tutorials online. It’s
not difficult, but there is a technique to it, especially when trimming outer edges.
You will notice that the table base is 8’ long and your trim is also 8’ long. This means if you want
to join the corners using a 45 degree miter joint, your trim isn’t long enough (the trim would have
to stick out ¼” in each side so your overall length must be 8’ ½”. Your options are to either use
two pieces for the length joined with a 45 degree miter joint (recommended) or butt joint (hehe)
the corners.
Here’s an illustration of the two methods:
Miter joints will hide the side

grain of the trim and will give
the impression that it is a single
piece of wood.
Butt joints are easier, but will

be noticeable. Also, wood
stain will soak into the edges
more so than the face so will
tend to be darker.
Ok, so for the sake of making progress, I’m going to assume you chose miter joints.
The first thing you’ll want to do is cut the end off of the trim piece at a 45 degree vertical angle
making the outside face of the trim the “point” of the angle (outside face meaning the pretty side
with the beveled corners).
Do this as close to the natural edge as possible so as to reduce waste.
Now that you have one side cut, go ahead and cut the other side about 12” from the end.
📔 NOTE: This will make the trim way too short, which is what we want. If we didn’t do this,
we’d end up having to use a very small piece to make this trim long enough, and small pieces
like to crack and have less surface to glue and bond with.
Once that is cut, evenly apply wood glue to the back side and attach it to the plywood with your
nail gun (or hammer and finish nails). Make sure you align the inside edge of the 45 degree cut
exactly to the corner of the plywood edge as shown below:
Now, get another full length trim and cut another miter joint at the end (making the “point” on the
outside face as before. Then dry fit it against the miter joint on the trim you just fastened as
pictured below:
Now mark the back side of the trim where the plywood ends and draw a line on the top
indicating the direction of the joint so that the “point” of the miter joint is on the outside face of
the trim.
Now cut this piece using your miter saw. Dry fit it again to make sure it is a proper fit, then glue
and nail the trim on.
📔 NOTE: I like to do trim in a continuous line (even around corners) where I’m always building
on the last piece installed. This makes sure each piece is measured and cut exactly to fit the
space in which it is intended. The technique I use is that once I cut a piece to fit, I take the
remaining piece (or new if not enough left) and immediately cut the end off at a 45 degree angle
to complement the last angle. This way I can have it ready to dry fit for the next piece.
The next piece will go on the short edge of the plywood. With a piece of trim already cut with a
45 degree miter joint, dry fit it and follow the method used before by marking the back side of
the trim with a pencil at the corner of the plywood.
Continue these steps until you’ve wrapped all four sides in trim.
There you have it! The base of the table has been built. Take a break and enjoy what you have
built so far.
Step 3 - Build the “Leaning Edge”
The “Leaning Edge” refers to the top most feature of the table. It’s where your players will “lean
over” and gaze at the wonderful HD fantasy you or your DM has created (likely to torment or
otherwise maim and harass your characters)
📔 NOTE: This is the part of the table that will be the surface your players see the closest. It
will also be where they securely place their drinks and roll their dice. It will be the platform on
which their very characters’ stats, spell cards and backstory will come to life. That being said,
don’t screw this up! :)
On my first build, the one I did for myself, I bought the cheapest wood I could find; the leaning
edge cost me about $60 USD in lumber. I spent a considerable amount of time in the hardware
store picking out the 3 pieces of lumber that had the fewest and smallest knots, the boards that
had the least twist and warp to them, and in the end I think I made a good decision for my
needs. The table has withstood battles with giants, ancient dragons, krakens, and a variety of
devious fantasy creatures, and over 2 years into heavy use, looks better than the day I finished
it. All this to say, spend as much or as little as you are comfortable with. If you’re like me and
the $20 board looks good enough, do it. If you have a little extra and don’t want knots on your
table surface, spend the ~$40 per board and get the finest quality pine boards. If you’re
building a show piece and want it to dazzle, splurge and spend the $50-$100+ per board for an
oak, or other more exotic hardwoods. This is where wood selection will make a difference.
● 3 x 1”x12”x8’ Whitewood/Pine Boards (alternatively Oak or more Exotic wood of choice)
● 1 x ⅛”x2’x4’ Tempered Hardboard (masonite sheet)
● 1 Table base created in the previous section.
● 1 1/4 inch drywall screws
● 20 gauge Staples (for staple gun or brad nail gun)
Tools:
● Miter Saw (optionally circular saw)
● Optional: Pocket Hole Jig*
● Measuring Tape
● Speed Square
● Staple Gun (if your brad nailer won't shoot staples)
As alluded to, this is the piece that warrants the most attention. Regardless of which wood you
choose, the construction of the leaning edge must be undertaken with caution.
Step 3.1 - Cut Leaning Edge Boards

The first step in this process is to cut the three 1”x12”x6’ boards (see Parts List) to make the U
shape. This sounds easy enough, but the fact that these boards are 11” wide (yeah, if you
haven’t noticed a 1’ board is only 11”... thanks lumber industry), means that your miter saw may
not make the cut in one pass (the cut ends up being around 16” long if you choose the 45
degree miter joint option). If you have a sliding miter saw you may be able to make the cut in
one pass. I’ll give alternative cutting methods below.
Options
This is one of those parts of the build where you’ll need to decide if you want to use a miter joint
or a butt joint. As detailed previously when you were cutting the trim for the table base, there are
definite drawbacks to the butt joint method, however it is much easier to cut and produce a
clean 90 degree joint, even if you have to flip the board over to make the cut in two passes.
Miter Joint Option
📔 NOTE: If you chose butt joint option, skip to the Butt Joint Option below)
Start by taking two of the 1”x12”x8’ and cut a 45 degree miter joint as close to one end as you
can.
Cutting with Miter Saw

Depending on the size and travel of your Miter Saw, when you make your 45 degree cut it may
only make it around 3/4th of the way through. Finish that cut, then you will likely need to swivel
the miter saw to 45 degrees the other way, then flip the board and cut the rest of the way. And if
you’ve got equipment like me, you’ll find that no matter how much you try, the cut will not line up
perfectly (most consumer grade miter saws will not have precision degree settings; it may be
45.2 degrees or 45.8 degrees. Very minor variances don’t cause issues unless you’re trying to
make the cut going in two passes, from two different directions. I’m sorry, but unless you have a
miter saw that can cut it in one go, or you have a planer/joiner and can clean up the edge,
you’re going to end up with less than perfect joints. Your best friend is a planer or lots of
sanding to make the joint as straight and flat as possible.
Cutting with Circular Saw

Another option is to use a circular saw and a makeshift (or purpose built) guide to keep the line
straight. Use a speed square to draw the 45 degree line on the board where you wish to make
the cut. Then measure the distance from the edge of the shoe (or plate) on your circular saw to
the outside edge of the blade. Transfer that measurement onto the board and using the speed
square draw another line at that mark. Then using wood clamps, clamp a scrap board along
that second line (make sure it's snug, but try not to damage the wood). Now you can cut along
that line, keeping the saw’s plate against the guide.
Cutting at the Hardware Store

You may not have to make these cuts at all, if your hardware store has the equipment to do it for
you. Many will, but check in advance before bringing your lumber back to the store just in case.
Using your preferred cutting method, cut one end of two of the 1”x12”x8’ boards. The “point” of
the miter joint will be the outer corner of the table, so plan on which side is the “up” side for the
leaning edge and plan/cut accordingly.
Then measure from the “point” of the joint, down to the other end of the board and mark at 7’.
Cut this line with a 90 degree cut. Then use this board to transfer the measurement to the
second board and make the same cut. This ensures your two pieces are uniform in size. You
should end up with something like this:
Now dry fit those boards onto the table base with the points on the outer edge on the side
opposite of the DM station. Make sure to line up the edges on both sides. Then measure from
point to point. This will give you your outside measurements. Mark the measurements on the
1”x12”x6’ board and use a speed square to draw a 45 degree line inwards and make your miter
joint cut. Your cut pieces should look like this:
Butt Joint Option
To create the butt joint, you’ll really only need to make a few straight cuts with your miter saw.
Start by cutting about ¼ inch off the end of each side of the boards. Lumber isn’t always
perfectly square, so skipping this step could end up producing less than perfect joints and
edges.
Then, measure and cut two of the 1”x12”x8’ boards to 7’ exactly. Your pieces should look
something like:
Now dry fit those boards onto the table base with the points on the outer edge on the side
opposite of the DM station. Make sure to line up the edges on both sides. Then measure from
point to point. Mark the measurements on the 1”x12”x6’ board and use a speed square to draw
a straight line from edge to edge. Your cut pieces should look like this:
Step 3.2 - Cut “Dog Ear” Notches
Next step is to cut out the “dog ear” or angled notch at the DM end of the leaning edge. This
serves a couple purposes: 1) it looks cool, 2) it optimizes the space the DM has available by
closely matching the contours of a standard DM screen, allowing the DM to place the screen on
top of the leaning edge, or on their DM desktop space.
Starting from the outside edge of the leaning edge (the side that will face the players), measure
and mark 5 ½”. Using your speed square, draw a 45 degree line to the other edge of the board:
Since these cuts are much smaller, you should be able to make them using the miter saw. Set
your miter saw to 45 degrees and line up with the mark you made. Make the cut on one board,
then use that as a template/guide to cut the second piece by lining up the miter joint edges
exactly and transferring the 45 degree line on the dog eared end to the second piece and cut
along that line.
Whichever joint method you chose, dry fit the pieces onto the table so that all the edges align
and there are no gaps in your miter/butt joints. If there are gaps in the joints, do what you can to
sand or plane them to sit as flush as possible. With everything in place, using a pencil, trace the
outline of the leaning edge onto the table base. This will be your guide for measuring out the
supports that the leaning edge will sit on.
Now it’s time to cut the dice tray and cup holder holes.
Step 3.3 - Cupholders

There will be 3 cupholders on each long leaning edge, one on the short leaning edge and one
on the DM station end of the table base.
Measure
To get started, using a measuring tape along the length of the long leaning edge, starting at the
outside edge of the miter joint, mark a line with a pencil at 26 ½”, 54 ½” and 78”. Then at each
of those marks, measure in 3 ½” from the edge and mark the spot. You should end up with
cross marks at each of the cup holders’ center points.
Next Measure from the inside edge of the miter joint on the small leaning edge piece toward the
other end 2” and mark the measurement. Then at that mark, measure 3 ½” from the edge to the
mark and mark that point. Again you should end up with a cross mark indicating the cup
holder’s center.
Last, on the right hand side of the DM station side of the table base (from the point of view of
the DM), measure and mark a line from the long edge 3 ½” across and from the short edge 10”
toward the line you just marked. Again you should end up with a cross mark indicating the cup
holder’s center.
Now, I can’t recommend this enough: get a 3 ⅝” hole saw bit! You’ll be done in no time and
your holes will be perfect. However, if you’re like me, and don’t want to (or can’t) spend
$30-$40 on a bit, you can achieve good enough results with a jigsaw and a steady hand.
If you have the proper size hole saw bit, drill away. Done. Skip to the Dice Trays section below.
If you don’t have the bit and are opting for the jigsaw method, you’ll need to draw a 3 ⅝” circle
from the center of the cross marks you just made. Ideally you’d have a protractor to make this
circle perfect, but if you’re like me on my first build, I didn’t and instead devised another way.
Devised way
If you don’t have a protractor, take a scrap piece of the ¾” trim you used to trim out the table
base. You’ll only need it to be about 3” long. Drill a ⅛” hole on one end and measure from the
center of that hole toward the other end 1 13/16” and drill another hole.
In one hole, insert a nail or screw so that the tip sticks out about ⅛”. Then place the point of
that nail/screw into the center of the cross mark. Now insert a pencil tip into the other hole and
while firmly holding the nail/screw in place, draw a circle.
Cut the holes

However you decided to draw the circles, you’ll now need to drill a ⅜” to ¼” hole on the inside of
the circle, being careful not to go outside of the line. Then use your jigsaw to cut along the
lines. The holes don’t have to be perfect as the lip of the cup holder insert will hide it, but it does
have to be close, otherwise the inserts won't fit, or will be too loose. My first table I ended up
with a couple that were too snug and it slightly warped the cup holder insert. Not enough to
affect its usefulness (it still fit the same drinks/cups), but enough so that I as the builder will
always notice.
Before moving on to the second hole, insert one of the cup holder inserts to ensure a proper fit -
cut/sand to resolve any issues, then move on and repeat for the remaining 7 holes… see why
the drill bit would have been nice?
Step 3.4 - Dice Trays

As with many aspects of this table, there are many options in how you cut these rectangular
holes.
I use a jigsaw and then I line the inside of the cutout with trim (same as is used on the base
edges). That’s what I’ll describe below. However, if you are handy with a router and setting up
guides, you can do this much faster and cleaner without needing to trim at all.
Measure
First step is to measure the placement for these trays. The tray’s edge should line up with the
edge of the cup holder, however it will line up on different sides depending on the side of the
table. To keep the table symmetrical, I mirror the placement of the cup holders and trays. This
means, if you’re on the right hand side of the table (from the perspective of the DM), your tray’s
left hand edge will align with the left hand edge of the cup holder. On the left hand side of the
table (again, from the perspective of the DM), your tray’s right hand edge will align with the right
hand edge of the cup holder. Likewise, the dice tray on the end opposite of the DM, the tray’s
right hand edge will align with the right hand edge of the cup holder.
Pics please:
Hopefully that helps to visualize what the end goal is.
Now, from the DM’s perspective, start with the right hand side of the table. Facing the leaning
edge so that the cup holder holes are on the top, measure and mark ½” from the right of the
rightmost edge of the cup holder hole (if using a router to cut the hole, measure ¼” instead).
Then with a speed square and pencil, lightly draw a line from that measurement down toward
the bottom of the board. Then from the bottom edge of the board, measure up 1” and draw a
horizontal line to the left (toward the DM station) 7” long. At 7”, draw a vertical line up from the
outer edge toward the cup holder edge 5 ½”. Now draw a horizontal line to complete the
rectangle. It should look something like this now:
Repeat this for the remaining 2 dice trays on this side, however instead of measuring from the
right hand side of the cupholder, start from the left and measure to the right.
Finally, repeat the steps for the last dice tray on this side.
Then move to the left hand side leaning edge and make the same measurements, only going
the opposite direction. Instead of measuring from the right hand side of the cup holder hole,
measure from the left.
Then, as before, the next two measurements will be from the opposite side of the cupholder. So
make your measurements from the right hand side as pictured below.
At the short end, measure the same way as you did on the last two (from the right side of the
cupholder).
Cut
With all your measurements in place (making sure they resemble the illustrations), use your
desired method of cutting out the holes.
If using a jigsaw, drill a ⅜” to ¼” hole on the inside of the dice tray outline (being careful not to
hit or cross the line). Then with a jigsaw, carefully cut along the lines to the corner of the
rectangle outline. Then back the bit up a couple inches and cut a curved arch toward the
perpendicular line (rounding the corner). Carefully cut along that line to the corner and repeat
all the way around. Then go back with the jigsaw in the opposite direction and square out the
corners.
If using a plunge router, prepare your guides/jig to match the outlined rectangles. You can do
this by creating a “frame” using 4 scrap pieces of 1”x4” or 1”x6” boards keeping the inside
measurements the same as the dice tray. If you haven’t done this before, I recommend
watching some tutorials on how to build the guide and practice on scrap wood first. Once you
are comfortable with the guide and technique, clamp it in place to the leaning edge and plunge
and router around the edges. If done carefully, this should give you a nice rectangle with clean
edges and slightly rounded corners. It’d be up to you at this point if you want to trim the
insides, but you shouldn’t need to.
Trim
If you cut the dice trays using a jigsaw you’ll probably want to install trim on the inside of the
dice trays to give you nice clean, straight lines and hide any imperfections made when cutting.
It is very likely that each of the dice trays are slightly different sizes, and in fact each end of a
single dice tray likely has some variance in size. Because of this, we’ll need to measure and cut
each piece of trim individually. The fastest way to do this is to not measure, but to use the
actual dice tray cutout as a guide. Take a piece of the ¾” x ½” trim, and at a 45 degree vertical
angle, cut the very end off making the “point” of the miter joint on the back of the trim (the side
not beveled). Then place that pointed end into the dice tray cutout and with a pencil mark on
the back of the trim where the corners meet. This will be the line indicating where the “point” of
the miter joint should be:
Then repeat for the other 3 sides of the dice tray cutout. Dry fit the pieces to ensure a snug fit
and trim as needed. The pieces should fit tight, but you shouldn’t have to bend or force them
into place.
Once satisfied with the fit, evenly apply wood glue to the back of the trim and secure them in
place with a nail gun or finish nails.
📔 NOTE: Be sure to use 1inch 18 gauge brad nails (see Parts list) and hold the nail gun as
close to parallel with the leading edge board as possible to prevent shooting nails through the
top of the leading edge. If you do end up with that issue, just as mentioned before, use needle
nose pliers to grab the nail from where it’s sticking out and rock it back and forth until it breaks
off. Then fill with wood filler (see Parts List).
Repeat this for the remaining 7 dice trays.
Once all the dice trays are cut out, place all three leaning edge boards back on the table base,
lining them up to where you had traced them before. Then with a pencil, lightly trace the dice
tray edges onto the table base. We’ll use those as guides when placing the leaning edge
support boards later.
Dice Tray Bottoms

Now it’s time to add the dice tray bottoms. To do this flip the boards over so you are looking at
the bottom of the leaning edg supports. Measure the width and length of a dice tray and add
about ¾” to each measurement. Then using a square draw a rectangle onto the masonite
board at those dimensions. If all dice trays are nearly exactly the same you can mass produce
these tray bottoms by using the same measurement, however double check to make sure so
you don’t end up with holes in your trays!
Once you’ve marked the lines, cut using a jigsaw or circular saw. Repeat for the remaining 7
dice trays. Then line up each tray bottom over a dice tray opening so that the overlap is even
(and the smooth side is facing the top of the leaning edge), and secure using staples.
That’s it for now. We’ll assemble the leaning edge later after we build and install the supports
(next step). Set these pieces aside in a safe area. Ideally lay them on a flat and level cement
floor, or stand them up and lean them against the wall. Do not stack them or lean anything else
against them or you risk warping the wood.
Step 4 - Build the Leaning Edge Supports
You’ve made it this far, awesome! Now get back to work. As pictured below, the leaning edge
sits on supports that raise it off the table base, making the player shelves as well as the inset TV
vault.

● 5 x 1”x4”x8’ Whitewood Board
Tools:
● Measuring Tape
● Drill with ⅝” drill bit (or larger)
● Miter Saw
Step 4.1 - End Pieces

Start by making the supports at the end of the table opposite from the DM station. Measure and
cut two sections of 1”x4” board to be 11” in length. Dry fit it to make sure the piece sits flush
against the leaning edge line that you drew, and flush with the plywood base (minus the ¼”
trim).
Step 4.2 - TV Vault Walls
With the end piece in place (standing on its edge, with the length of it flush with the edge of the
table base) take a new 1”x4”8’ board and place it on the table base, butting up against the end
piece (making sure it is still flush with the table base edge) and lining up with the leaning edge
line you traced earlier. The board should be on the inside of the line, between the line and the
edge of the table. Mark with a pencil on the 1”x4”x8’ board where the outline corners to the 45
degree angle.
This mark will indicate where the “point” of the 45 degree joint will be, which will angle away
from the 45 degree line drawn on the table base.
📔 NOTE: The side with the “point” is the outward facing side that will be visible inside the TV
vault, so select the best looking 1”x4”x8’ boards for these long pieces, and make sure to set the
prettiest side outward, toward the center of the table.
Repeat this step with the other side.
Step 4.3 - Dog Ear Walls

The next pieces to measure and cut will be the 45 degree “walls” that hold up the dog eared end
of the leaning edges. These pieces will have 1 end cut at a right angle and the other end cut
with a 45 degree miter joint. Since you already have 2 pieces left over from the previous step,
and they already have a 45 degree end, use those pieces. Line up one of the pieces where the
point of the 45 degree end is facing the DM station and line it up with the 45 degree line drawn
on the table base. See below:
With a pencil, mark the board at the corner point of the line drawn on the table (will result with a
right angle), then cut with the miter saw.
Repeat on the other side.
Now measure the right angle edge of the dog ear and cut a piece of 1”x4” board to fit,
subtracting ¼” to allow for trim. Then repeat for the other side.
The finished, dry-fit boards should look something like this:
Step 4.4 - Player Cubby Separators
The next set of supports will act as player cubby separators. We can make several cuts at once
as the depth of the leaning edge will be consistent enough. Take a 1”x4” board and cut 6 pieces
to a length of 10 ¼”. This will leave a gap between the edge of the base and leaning edge just
deep enough for a piece of trim. The trim will hide the edge grain and give it a finished look.
Step 4.5 - DM Cabinet/Short TV Vault Walls

The last supports you need to cut will be used to define the walls for the DM’s secret
compartment and the short edge walls of the TV Vault
Measure The distance between the two sides of the leaning edge near the DM station, and cut
two lengths of the 1” x 4” boards to that measurement. Then measure again on the other end of
the table and cut one 1” x 4” board to fit.
Step 4.6 - Cutout for DM Station Electrical Box

Before assembly you will want to cut out the hole in the DM station wall that will allow the
electrical outlet to be installed. This will be done on the left hand side of the leaning edge wall.
The easiest way to do this is to take the outlet you are going to install and trace its outline onto
the board as centered as you can. Then erase the “T” shaped ends from the outline so that
when cut, the hole will allow the outlet to slide in from the front and secured by the “T” bracket
into the face of the board.
Then with a ⅝” drill bit, drill a hole near the inside edge of the line and use a jigsaw to finish
cutting the outline. Dry fit the outlet to ensure a proper fit and use the jigsaw to make any
necessary adjustments so that the outlet fits in loosely. The cuts do not have to be pretty, they
will be hidden by the outlet faceplate.
For safety you will later install an electrical box behind this wall to safely hide the
exposed wires/connectors. This electrical box will be visible from the side of the
table, so it needs to be hidden behind a 1”x4” “L” shaped 1”x4” board. To make this,
cut a 2 ¾” length of 1”x4” board and a second piece at 7” length. The shorter piece
will be the “face” that will sit flush with the edge of the table base/leaning edge, while
the longer piece will hide the electrical box from the back.
In addition, this piece will slide into an area that will cross over the dice tray opening. Later you
will attach a thin board to the bottom of the dice trays, so we will notch the top of the board that
will slide into the cubby space to hide the box. This can be done using a jigsaw, or by using a
miter saw. If using a miter saw, stand that board up tall underneath the blade and cut down,
stopping about ½” from the end. Then use a jigsaw or chisel to cut the rest. You should end up
with a piece that looks like this:
At this point, since you’re already working with the 1” x 4” boards we’ll build a little box to use
later to hide the HDMI port. To do this, cut two pieces of 1” x 4” to a length of 6”, and two more
at 3 ⅞”. Next, take the 6” pieces and cut one end to 45 degrees.
Now using the brad nail gun or finish nails, attach the two 6” tapered boards to one of the 3 ⅞”
boards, keeping the 3 ⅞” boards on the inside of the 6” tapered boards to form a “U” shape:
The second 3 ⅞” board will be attached to the table later, then this box will attach to it. Set it
aside for now.
The final step before installation of the leaning edge supports is to sand it. Sanding now is
much easier than when it’s attached to the table base. Using standard sanding techniques of
starting with a coarse grain (like 80-100 grit) then with increasingly finer grit (200 - 220 grit) until
the pieces are smooth. You need not sand the edges or the tops/bottoms as these will be
hidden by other pieces.
Step 5 - Installing the Leaning Edge Supports

With the leaning edge supports cut and sanded, it’s time to install them.

● Cut 1”x4” Leaning Edge Support boards (from previous step)
● Wood glue
Tools:
● Measuring tape
Step 5.1 Dry Fit Supports

Using the outline you drew of the leaning edges, line up the supports so that they align with the
inside edges of the drawn line. The supports should be ¼” short from being flush with the table
base to allow room to install trim.
Step 5.2 Secure Leaning Edge Supports

If the pieces fit properly, secure them, one by one from underneath the table using 1 1/4 inch
drywall screws (pre-drilling holes first, of course). I recommend applying wood glue to the edge
of the piece you are securing, then line it up against the lines drawn on the table base and using
a nail gun/brad nailer, shoot a few brads from underneath the table up into the board. This will
serve to hold it in place while you pre-drill and screw into the boards from below.
Next place the 1” x 4” board you previously cut to be the outer wall of the DM cabinet flush with
the corner where the “dog eared” supports meet the TV vault walls:
Once lined up, secure from below using 1 1/4 inch drywall screws as with the previous supports.
Now from the inside edge of the board you just installed, measure 10 ¼” toward the TV vault.
Use your speed square to draw a right angle line from the TV vault wall.
Line up the second 1” x 4” board you cut for the DM cabinet along that line (with the board on
the TV vault side of the line)
Secure from below using 1 1/4 inch drywall screws. In addition, secure from the sides using two
1 1/4 inch drywall screws for additional support (since this piece will have hinges installed for
the cabinet door)
Finally, at the other end of the table place the last 1” x 4” board along the line that was traced
from the leaning edge onto the table base, keeping the board on the side of the line opposite of
the TV vault. Then secure from the bottom and sides as with the previous board.
Step 5.3 Cubby Separators/Supports

At this point all of the outer parameter supports will be secured. Now it’s time to install the
leaning edge supports that make up the walls of each player cubby. Starting from the end of the
table furthest from the DM station, measure and mark 6” from the edge of the leaning edge
support “end-caps” toward the DM station. From this mark, measure and mark 22” (again
toward the DM station). Continuing in the same direction from this mark, measure and mark
28”. Using your square or straight edge ruler, draw a line from each mark to the wall of the TV
vault.
NOTE: It’s best at this point to dry fit the supports you cut in step 4.4, placing the left edge of the
leaning edge support board on the right side of the marks. Then lay the leaning edge on top to
verify that the supports do not interfere with the holes cut for the cup holders or dice trays.
Now after making any adjustments necessary, secure from below as you did with the previous
supports.
Once all the supports have been secured, it should look like this:
Step 6 - Stain Inner Sections
With the supports in place, it's now time to stain the “inside” areas. It’s much easier to do this
before installing the leaning edge.

● 220 grit sandpaper
● Wood filler
● Stain - color of choice & Polyurethane (or a product like MinWax that has 2-in-1)
Tools:
● Orbit sander
● Microfiber cloth rags (old cotton T-shirts work great for this, just know the shirt will be
ruined)
● 000 grit steel wool
Use wood filler to fill any imperfections in the base and allow it to properly dry before sanding.
Once sanded and wiped down with a damp rag, apply your stain or finish of choice.
This is also a good time to apply your stain or finish of choice to the underside of the leaning
edge. This entire area is not highly visible, so you can choose to apply fewer coats and it will
not diminish the overall look of the table.
Be careful not to allow the stain to drip over the edges. Also, keep in mind that the tops of the
leaning edge supports do not need to be stained as they will be covered by the leaning edge.
Step 7 - Install Leaning Edge

The leaning edge is the icing on the cake. It’s the piece that will be most visible, and most used
by your players. Because of this, be sure to take extra care in the following steps.
● 2 Mending Braces or Truss Plates (if not using pocket hole jig)
● 1/2 inch Wood Screws (if using Mending Braces)
● Pocket Hole Screws (consult your pocket hole jig documentation for appropriate
hardware)
● 18 gauge brad nails or finish nails
● Wood Glue
If Using Inlay Technique:
○ ¼” x 2” x 24” Hardwood Board (i.e Walnut or other exotic hardwood)
○ Orbit Sander (or sandpaper and elbow grease) with 100-120 grit sandpaper
Tools:
● Pocket Hole Jig (Optional)
● Drill with Phillips (star) bit (if using Mending Braces)
● Brad/Nail Gun (or Hammer)
If Using Inlay Technique:
○ Router or Tracksaw
○ Table saw
○ Jigsaw or hand saw
○ Wood clamps (if using router)
○ Scrap wood or other straight edge to make a router guide (if using router)
First, dry fit your leaning edge onto the leaning edge supports to ensure the fit is correct. Next,
you have some decisions to make, depending on the tools you have available.
Step 7.1 Reinforce Leaning Edge Joints

If you are using a pocket hole jig, congratulations. Lay the leaning edge pieces bottom side up
and make your pocket holes in the short leaning edge piece along the 45 degree miter joint. Be
sure not to drill too close to the outer/inner edges. Next, using the appropriate screws (check
your pocket hole jig documentation), secure the 3 pieces of leaning edge together.
If you are not using a pocket hole jig, I recommend using a metal mending brace (either the
nail/screw in kind or the kind with teeth, also known as a truss plate
; see Parts List) to reinforce the miter joint. Lay the leaning edge pieces
bottom side up, aligning the pieces to fit as to create a “U” shape. Then secure the metal
reinforcement plate to the joint, either using 1/2 inch wood screw or nailing the toothed plate.
You may also choose not to secure the edges. I opted for this on my first table, and though the
miter joint has slightly separated, it is not noticeable enough to affect our game time.
Step 7.2 - Secure Leaning Edge

Now place the leaning edge pieces right side up onto the table. Make sure the edges are flush.
Make sure the cupholders and dice tray openings are not obstructed with the leaning edge
supports. If so, make adjustments before securing. Then apply wood glue to the top edges of
the supports and use a brad nail gun, or finish nails and hammer to secure the leaning edge to
the previously installed leaning edge supports
I recommend that you drive at least 3 brads/nails into each leaning edge support, and one every
8” or so along the inner TV vault walls. This is the only thing holding the table top in place, and
these brads/nails aren’t much for strength.
Now, take a piece of ¾” trim, measure and cut sections to cover the edges of the leaning edge
supports. This will make the supports flush with the leaning edge and the table base. Dry fit
each piece and make sure it sits flush with the top of the leaning edge supports, then secure
with the brad nail gun or with finish nails.
Now fill all nail holes and any other seam or imperfection with wood filler and let it dry.
(NOTE: In the above images I had installed dice tray bottoms after installing the leaning edge
using a right angle drill. Your table will already have them installed at this point)
Step 7.3 (Optional) - Wood Inlay Over Seam - Advanced

Technique
If you do not want to deal with having a slight gap in the leaning edge and have access to a
router or a track saw, I’d recommend using an inlay to hide the joint. I did this in a recent table
when I couldn’t get the gap to join close enough; due to shrinkage in the wood I ended up with
about 1/8th of an inch gap, which was not ideal. Adding an inlay of hardwood helps to prevent
shrinkage and will make it a permanent seam. It also turned out to look really cool and
intentional :)
To make the inlay, take a small strip of hardwood from your hardware/lumber store. My store
had small boards of various hardwoods; I chose walnut (¼” x 2” x 24”), which cost me about
$8USD.
Using a table saw, rip the board lengthwise into ½” strips and then place them on the table
covering the gap or miter seam so that the edges line up with the inner and outer corner of the
leaning edge. Then with a pencil trace lines on either side of the strip of wood onto the table.
📔
Then line up a track saw or router to cut just inside the drawn line. NOTE: you want to cut
inside the drawn lines to make the resulting channel slightly too small for the inlay wood. You’ll
shave it with a chisel later to make a perfect fit.
If using a router, I recommend clamping some guides (scrap wood, large level, etc..) to ensure a
perfectly straight cut.
Adjust your saw or router bit to just shy of ¼” deep (you want the top of the inlay strip to sit
“proud” of the leaning edge surface so you can sand to a smooth surface later). Carefully make
your first cut, keeping it as straight as possible. Next move your track or router guide to the
opposite line and repeat the cut, making sure to keep just inside the drawn line.
Now make several passes to dado cut the remaining material. If using a router with an
appropriately sized bit, you may only need to make one pass.
When finished cutting, use a sharp chisel to shave off the inlay groove’s wall (using the pencil
markings as a guide) little by little until you can snugly fit in the inlay by tapping it in with a
📔
rubber mallet.
NOTE: If you go a little too far that’s ok, you can fill it with glue and sawdust prior to sanding
and it will make most mistakes invisible.
Once you have the channel sized correctly, gently fit the inlay strip into the channel and trace
the inner and outer corners of the table onto the inlay strip. Then use either a jig saw or hand
saw to cut out the V shapes on either end. TIP: Cut the outer V shape 1/8th of an inch too long.
This will give you room to sand it for a perfect fit.
After cutting, it’s a good idea to use your sander or just sandpaper to round off the edges on the
underside of the inlay strip. This will help it slide into the channel without gouging the channel
walls.
To install the inlay, apply a generous amount of wood glue on the underside of the inlay piece as
well as in the channel (walls and floor of the channel). Then line the inner corner of the inlay to
the inner corner of the leaning edge, fit the inlay into the channel. You’ll likely need to persuade
it with a rubber mallet. TIP: Make sure the inner edge is flush with the leaning edge as it’s much
easier to sand the pointed end of the inlay than the inner V of the inlay.
Finally, take some fine sawdust from previous sanding efforts (or start sanding and make more)
and using your finger work the sawdust into any imperfections along the length and exposed
edges of the inlay. If the glue has already dried, apply a bit of fresh glue as needed, and work in
more sawdust. Let that fully dry (read your glue’s label for drying times) and start sanding. I
recommend a random orbit sander with 100-120 grit sandpaper to prevent scratches or gouges
from sanding against the grain while removing inlay material. When finished (inlay is perfectly
flush with the leaning edge surface), brush or blow off the dust and inspect for any
imperfections. If found, fill with glue and sawdust and repeat until satisfied with the inlay.
(Inlay after stain/polyurethane)
Step 8 - TV Vault Cover
The last piece of the tabletop puzzle is the cover. This will allow you to cover the TV vault when
the TV is not in use, and will provide a solid surface for traditional board games, or more
mundane uses such as serving dinner.
● 3 x 1”x12”x8’ Whitewood/Pine Boards (alternatively Oak or more Exotic wood of choice)
● 2 x ½” x ¾” x 8’ Pine trim
● 1 Table base created in the previous section.
Tools:
● Miter Saw (optionally circular saw or table saw)
● Drill with 1” drill bit
● Measuring Tape
● Speed Square
Step 8.1 - Topper Ledge

First step is to install the ledge for the table topper to sit on. Take a piece of the ½” x ¾” trim
and using a miter saw, cut the end at 45 degrees on the ¾” side. Then place the point of the cut
end in the inside corner of the TV vault starting at one corner then with a pencil, mark on the
trim where it meets the other corner
Now cut the trim using a miter saw so that the point of the 45 degree joint is at the marked line.
Then dry fit to ensure that it fits. With that piece in place, take a the other end and align the
miter joints together, then mark the next corner:
Repeat for the remaining two slides. Once all pieces are cut, secure them using glue and a
brad nail gun, lining the trim up with the top of the vault walls, just under the leaning edge.
Step 8.2 - Topper Boards

There will be a total of 6 topper boards used to cover the table, plus one more for the lid of the
DM cabinet. To make these, measure the depth of the TV vault from the inside edges of the
leaning edge. Since there’s a chance that the TV vault isn’t perfectly square, I recommend
measuring and cutting each board individually, rather than cutting all boards the same length.
This ensures an accurate fit.
📔
Measure and mark the line on the 1”x12”x8’ board and cut it to size. Dry fit the board to ensure
a snug fit and measure the next section. Mark, cut, repeat until you have 6 boards. NOTE:
they won’t fit width wise, which is OK. This will be fixed in the next steps.
Step 8.3 - Center Topper Boards

From the DM station side, count inward to the forth board and remove it, then slide the board
that ends up closest to the DM station so that it lines up with the DM cabinet walls. Now slide
the two toppers closest to it so that they are snug with that one. The gap that remains will be the
middle of the TV vault. Measure that gap and make a note of the measurement as you’ll need
that in the following steps.
📔 NOTE: If using new wood (freshly purchased from your lumber supplier/home improvement
store), keep in mind that it is still wet, even if it feels dry. If you are using a softwood like white
pine (the species common in lumberyards and home improvement stores where I live), you
should expect shrinkage of about 1/8th of an inch (across the grain; usually the width of the
board). This doesn’t seem like much, but it means that even if you cut your boards to fit snugly,
when it has dried (which typically takes several days to a couple weeks) there will be around
3/4th of an inch gap when you set the boards in place. This is not easy to compensate for since
shrinkage can vary, so one option is to wait until the wood has dried before proceeding with this
step. The other option is to add ¾” to the measurement above and intentionally make the
center board too wide to fit. You can make adjustments later as the wood dries (though you
may need to touch up the stain.
Add ⅛” to the measurement you just made and transfer that measurement to the board you set
aside to be the center. Now using a square, draw a line at that measurement down the length of
the board. Then use your saw of choice to make the cut.
Measure the width of the board you just cut, and divide that by 2. Then mark that and use a
square to draw the line down the length of the board. Then measure the length of the board
and divide by 2 again. Measure and mark that on the center line you just made so that you
have a cross in the exact center of the board.
Now using a 1” drill bit, drill a hole at the point where the two lines intersect in the center of the
board.
Finally, using your saw of choice, rip the board in two following the center line you drew down
the length of the board.
Step 8.4 - DM Cabinet Door

The final board you cut will be the door/lid for the DM cabinet. Select the side that will be the
top, and lay it top down on a flat surface. Then using the hinge instructions/template, trace the
hinge onto the board so that they are 4 inches from the edge.
Use the drill bit specific to your hinges (or a small chisel) and create the hole for the hinge to sit
into. Be sure not to drill/chisel completely through the board.
Now fasten the hinge to the door with provided screws. Then stand the board up in the “open”
position on the back wall of the cabinet area (making sure the gaps on either end are equal).
Follow the instructions for your specific hinges to attach the hinges to the wall of the cabinet.
Use the adjustment screws to make any adjustments needed until the door opens/closes
properly.
There you have it. The table top is done! Congratulations! Now just set the topper pieces on a
dry flat surface so they do not warp as they dry.
Step 9 - Legs and Bottom Shelf

The legs on this table are extremely simple, yet very sturdy (once the shelf is installed to provide
reinforcement).
● 4 x 2”x4”x8’ framing studs (find the best quality ones you can at your hardware store)
● 1 x 1”x6”x10’ Whitewood/Pine Board
● Remaining 1”x6”x8’ Whitewood/Pine Boards from Step 1
● 2 ½ inch wood screws
● 8 x carriage bolts
● 8 x washers
● 8 x nuts
● 18 gauge brad nails (optional)
● 4 x caster wheels (optional)
● 16 x lag screws (if installing caster wheels)
Tools:
● Miter Saw (optional)
● Circular saw or table saw
● Drill with ¼” drill bit
● Measuring Tape
● Speed Square
Step 9.1 - Build Legs

To make the legs, first you need to decide if you’re going to use caster wheels (highly
recommended, this table is heavy). This will determine the height to cut the legs. For optimal
table height, the legs need to be 27”. If you are using caster wheels, simply measure the height
of the wheels and subtract that from the aforementioned measurement. Then cut 4 lengths of
2”x4” studs at that measurement.
Then subtract 4” from that measurement and cut 4 more lengths of 2”x4” studs at this new
measurement. Then pair each longer stud with a shorter one, aligning the bottoms.
Making sure to keep the bottom and sides of the two boards aligned, drive three 2 1/2 inch
wood screws into each leg set (through the longer board), offsetting the screws so that they
form sort of a V pattern:
Step 9.2 - Install Legs
This next part is easier with help, but can be done alone with some brute force. Take each leg
and place it under the table onto the table supports so that the longer side of the leg is on the
inside of the table and the leg sits flat against the TV box.
Holding it firmly in place, use your speed square to ensure the leg is
square with the table supports.
Then using two 2 1/2 inch wood screws, secure the leg in place from
the back side of the leg. This will temporarily hold it in place while you
drill holes for the bolts. Make sure to offset these screws so that they
are diagonal from each other
With the leg firmly secured, use your drill and ¼” drill bit to drill holes
through the leg and table support. Drill opposite the temporary screws.
Now insert 2 carriage bolts into the holes and fasten with a washer and
nut each (the head of the carriage bolt should be facing outward). It
helps to use a drill equipped with a socket, but a manual socket wrench
will do the trick. Then remove the temporary screws.
Repeat this for all four legs.
If you are installing caster wheels, now would be the time to do so. It’s best to remove the legs
📔
first, then using the appropriate lag screws secure a caster wheel to each of the legs.
NOTE: With the legs removed, it’s a good time to use a pencil or marker to mark each leg
and the table support it belongs to (in an area that will not be visible when the legs are attached)
so that you know which leg goes on which side. Likely the bolt holes will be unique per leg, but
it helps eliminate the guessing game later).
Once the legs are marked and wheels installed, re-install them using the 1” lag screws.
Now with the wheels locked (if installed) lift one side of the table off of the saw horse and
remove the saw horse and set the table down on its new legs. Repeat on the other end. Once
the table is on all four legs, ensure that all legs are touching the ground and that the table is
level (this may be difficult if you’re not on level ground).
Now it’s starting to look like a table, right?
Step 9.3 - Bottom Shelf Box

You will notice that the table wobbles on its legs a bit. That’s why we’re going to reinforce it with
a shelf.
Using your measuring tape, measure from the outer edge of one leg to the outer edge of the leg
on the other end of the table (length wise)
Subtract 1 ½” from that measurement and cut two lengths of 1” x 6” x 10’ boards to that
measurement.
Then measure the distance from the inside of one leg to the inside of the closest leg (width of
table) and cut two more lengths of 1” x 6” boards (leftover from Step 1) to that length.
Assemble the boards so that it forms a rectangular box, where the shorter boards “cap” the
longer ones:
Then use the 1 1/4 inch drywall screws to secure (be sure to pre-drill first!)
Step 9.4 - Bottom Shelf Top

Now place that box on a sheet of ¼” plywood, using a speed square to ensure the corners of
the box are square, trace the shape onto the plywood and cut using a circular saw or jigsaw.
Step 9.5 - Install Bottom Shelf

Now with your measuring tape, measure 10” from the ground up and mark a line on the inside of
each leg
Next, with the help of a friend, place the box inside the four legs and raise it so the top of the
box lines up with the line on the legs. If you don’t have a helper, you can also stack scrap wood
underneath to prop up the box so it is close to the line, then lift one corner at a time when
securing to the legs from inside the box. Make sure the box edge lines up with the leg edge and
secure with two 1 1/4 inch drywall screws. Repeat for all four legs.
At this point the table should feel much more stable, but may still wobble. That’s ok, the
plywood will fix that. Place the plywood on the top of the newly installed box, making sure the
edges are flush with the box, secure with 1 1/4 inch drywall screws (make sure to pre-drill!),
spacing the screws around 12” apart.
Done! The table is complete! Next we’ll go into the finishing touches.
Step 10 - Bookshelf Unit (optional)
The bookshelf adds an additional storage area for the DM to store resource manuals, supplies,
etc… and so is highly recommended. However, this is completely optional.
● 3 x 1” x 12” boards at least 15” each
● 1/4-in x 2-ft x 4-ft Birch Sanded Plywood
● 1/2 inch wood screws
● 4 x 1.5” x 0.62” x 1.5” Steel Corner Braces
● 8 x ¼” shelf pins
Tools:
● Circular saw or jigsaw
● Drill with ¼” drill bit
● Speed Square
● Level
Step 10.1 Cut the Box Walls

Building this box is rather simple. First, take the 1”x12” boards and cut 3 lengths of 15”. Then
select two to be the “walls” of the box, and one to be the bottom.
Step 10.2 Drill Holes for Adjustable Shelves

Take the wall pieces and lay them flat. Measure 3 inches from the natural edge (not the cut
edge) inward. Then using your speed square draw a vertical line down to the bottom of the
board. Repeat that on the other edge (and on the other wall piece). You should have
something like this:
Now, starting from the top cut edge measure and mark 4” down on both lines:
From that new line, measure and mark in 1” increments down to about 3” from the bottom of the
board. Repeat that on the other line, then repeat again on the second “wall” board. Your
boards should now look like this:
Now, take your drill with a ¼” drill bit and drill a hole about ½” deep at each of the marked “X” on
both boards.
📔 NOTE: It’s easy to drill all the way through the board by
mistake. To prevent that, measure ½” from the tip of the drill bit
down, and wrap a piece of masking tape (or any tape) so that
only the ½” tip is exposed. This will help prevent the bit from
going deeper than ½”.
Step 10.3 - Assemble Bookshelf Walls
Now with the walls prepared, using a brad nail gun or finish nails,
secure one wall piece to the bottom piece to make an “L” shape. The
cut edge of the wall should be facing down and exposed while the cut
edge on the bottom piece should butt up flush with the wall piece.
Make sure your newly drilled holes are on the inside!!
Then attach the second wall piece to the other end of the bottom piece,
with the cut end facing down, and drilled holes facing the other wall
piece.
Step 10.4 - Bookshelf

Backing
Now take the remaining ¼” plywood sheet and using your
square, measure and draw a rectangle that is 15” x 15 ¾”.
Next, using a circular saw or jigsaw, cut the outlined shape.

Now simply lay it on the back of the “U” shape and secure it
with staples (or optionally brad nail gun or finish nails). Use
your speed square to ensure the box is square before
attaching the plywood back wall. You may need to straighten
the walls out so they are flush with the plywood.
Step 10.5 - Bookshelf Shelves

Now take the remaining ¼” birch plywood sheet and using your
square, measure and draw two rectangles that are 14 ¾” x 15
½”. Cut those rectangles using your circular saw or jigsaw to be
used as the adjustable shelves.
The next step is to mount the 4 corner braces to the top of the
shelf unit using the supplied screws (or 1/2 inch wood screw).
Position 2 braces on each wall, ensuring that the braces are
flush with the top of the shelf unit wall.
Step 10.6 - Install Bookshelf Unit
With the braces in place, it’s time to attach to the table. This step is best done with the help of a
friend. Alternatively you can use something to prop up the box while you attach, but friends are
much better here :)
Position the shelf so that it is flush with the front and right side of the DM station (making sure
there is clearance between the outer wall and the cupholder). Then using the supplied screws
(or 1/2 inch wood screw), secure to the table.
At this point it’s a good idea to dry fit the shelves by placing the shelf pins in the pre-drilled holes
and inserting the shelves. You may need to sand or cut to adjust the shelves as needed.
Step 11 - Sand & Stain

This part is easy, but hard. However, it also brings your table from dull to amazing.
● 220 grit sandpaper
● Wood filler
● Stain - color of choice & Polyurethane (or a product like MinWax that has 2-in-1)
Tools:
● Orbit sander
● Microfiber cloth rags (old cotton T-shirts work great for this, just know the shirt will be
ruined)
● 000 grit steel wool
Sanding seems never ending, but give the entire table a good sanding with 220 grit sandpaper
on an orbit sander. Of course, it all depends on how you want your finished product to look, but
generally you’ll spend more time sanding the top of the table than the legs/bottom. Don’t forget
the table topper boards and the HDMI port box!
Once you’ve finished, dust off the table and look for any imperfections. Fill with wood filler if
needed, then when dry, sand again. Repeat until you’re happy with the surface.
Staining is super easy, until you get to the varnish or polyurethane step. I have used products
like MinWax PolyShades that combine the stain and polyurethane clear coat in one step (well in
2 coats) and have had some rather decent results. It’s definitely quicker since you only need 2
coats with a quick steel wool scrub in between, but it’s also less forgiving if you accidentally
leave brush marks or let it drip or pool. You can sand and fix, but then you can easily end up
with variances in the color. If you’re making a showroom piece, maybe go old school and stick
with stain and clear coat polyurethane, otherwise you can easily get a nice finish with the
PolyShade.
Whichever product you choose (you can also paint, or leave natural and just clear coat it, etc…)
follow the product’s instructions to apply.
Step 12 - Wiring
This step adds the wow factor to your table; powering your TV, providing plugs to all your
players and illuminating the TV vault with some mood setting ambient lights.

● 1 x 40ft brown outdoor power cord
● 1 x 14/2 Wiring 25ft
● 8 x 1 Gang shallow electric box
● 1 x Package of plastic wire clamps
● 7 x Outlets
● 7 x Outlet plates
● 1 x HDMI Port and Wall Plate
● 2 x 1/2 inch Wood Screws
Tools:
● Drill with ¾” drill bit
● Wire Cutters
📔 NOTE: Electricity can kill you. It can burn your house down. Do not attempt this
unless you are absolutely confident in what you are doing. Seek a professional
electrician if you are uncertain.
First step is to install the 1 Gang electrical boxes on the table. Starting with inside the TV box,
locate an area below the TV supports and using two 1 1/4 inch drywall screws, secure the
electrical box so the back of the box sits flat on the inner wall of the TV box.
This will be where the power will come into the table as well as where it will be distributed to
each electrical box.
Now using the same method, position and install the remaining boxes onto the table supports
📔
below the sanded plywood. Again, ensuring the back sits flat with the face of the supports.
NOTE: Keep the screws away from the center of the box as this will be where we drill a
hole for the wires to be fed through.
On the long ends of the table, try to line the middle of the box with the leaning edge supports
On the short end (not DM station), attach to the table supports that run parallel with the short
side of the TV box
Next, the DM station. Place the box behind the hole that you cut when building the leaning edge
supports and secure using 1/2 inch wood screws.
Last, but certainly not least, the box for the HDMI port. I’ve found that the optimal placement for
this is on the left hand side of the DM station, near where the electrical outlet will be installed,
mounted underneath the table. Simply use two 1/2 inch wood screws to secure this underneath
the table. Be sure to set it back about ¼” so that the plate will sit flush with the edge of the
table.
With the boxes installed, next thing to do is drill the holes that you’ll use to route the wires from
box to box. The goal is to make the wires “invisible”. Start by drilling holes directly in the center
of the 4 boxes you installed on the long edges of the table, the 1 box on the short end of the
table and the HDMI box. Be sure to drill all the way through into the TV box.
Next drill a hole from underneath the table, into the “cubby” area by the box at the DM station.
Make sure to position it as closely as possible to the table supports.
Now Drill a hole into the table support just below the hole you just drilled keeping it as close to
the sanded plywood as possible.
Finally, underneath the DM station, drill a hole through the TV box near where you just drilled
the holes for the electrical box.
Now it’s time to wire!
Starting with the box on the DM station wall, feed the 14/2 wiring through the box and down
through the drilled hole in the table base, then through the hole in the support, then finally
through the hole into the TV box. From under the table, feed that wire into the electrical box
mounted inside the TV box so that it extends around 4 inches outside of the box. Bend that end
of the wire so that it cannot be easily pulled out while working through the next steps.
Now simply use the wire clamps to secure the wire to the inside of the TV box.
With that length of wire secure, cut the other end so that only about 4 inches of wire extends
from the box. Then bend that end as well.
At the same box, feed the end of the remaining wire into the same hole and from underneath
the table route it to the electrical box next to it. Pull the wire through until it extends around 4
inches, then bend, secure the wire inside the TV box with wire clamps and cut the other end at 4
inches.
Repeat this process around the entire table so that it looks like the following image:
Now you’re ready to install the outlets. Depending on the type of outlets you have, installing the
wire might be different methods. Some will have push-in connectors that allow you to simply
strip the end of the wire and insert the bare wire into a hole in the back. Others require that you
strip the wire, bend it in a loop and secure it to the side (or back) of the outlet. Please consult
with your product’s installation instructions.
The important part here is to make sure you wire black to black, white to white and ground to
ground along the entire circuit. Typically the outlets will have a silver and brass color connector
(in the case of the push in type it will typically say “White” on one side and will also have silver
screw connectors on that side). Regardless of installation method, the silver color screw
connectors are where you’ll connect the white wire, and the brass is where you’ll connect the
black.
There should also be a green color screw on the outlet. This is where you’ll attach the bare wire,
also known as the ground wire.
Once all wires are connected, fasten the outlet into the electrical box using the provided screws.
Then fasten the outlet plates (for all except inside the TV box), again with provided screws.
The last step is to provide power to the table. This is where that huge 40’ long brown extension
cord comes into play. This cord is way too long for most applications. You may want to cut it
down to 10 or 20 feet depending on how far your
expected outlets will be. I tend to keep the 40’ and hang
a set of hanging brackets on the inside of the table legs
to wind the extra cord onto, however this is completely
optional.
With the extension cord in hand, cut off the female plug
end and using wire cutters or a sharp knife, cut back 4
inches of the outer casing
Now strip off about 1” of the wire housing of each wire and twist it (this will be braided wire as
opposed to the solid wire of the rest of the table).
Feed that wire through the hole from under the DM station and into the electrical box and use
the wire clamps to secure the extension cord along the side of the TV box. This will help prevent
the wires from being pulled loose if you move the table without unplugging first.
Now, while you are feeding wires through the table it’s a convenient time to install the 6’ HDMI
cable into the TV box. To do so, feed one end through the hole drilled into the support nearest
the HDMI box. Then following the wire that is already in this hole, feed it through the hole going
into the TV box and pull it until most of the cable is in the TV box area. Then plug the end by the
HDMI box into the HDMI box and using the wire clamps, secure the cable.
Finally, secure the wires to the appropriate screw connectors on the plug (silver => white, brass
=> black, green => green/bare). Now fasten the outlet plate using the provided screw.
Now to test your wiring. Ideally you should use a “Receptacle Tester” to ensure the wiring is
correct. These are typically around $5USD and will not only tell you if it’s working, but it will tell
you if it is wired correctly. If you don’t have one of these testers, you can also plug in a cheap
lamp into the DM station plug and then plug the extension cord into a wall outlet. If the light
turns on, at least you know the power has made it all the way to the end of the circuit.
Step 13 - Lighting (optional, but really cool)
● 16.4FT RGB LED Light Strip Kit
● Plastic wire clamps
Tools:
● Scissors
Now that you have power, you can add your LED lighting inside the TV vault for that added
special effect. These lighting kits are generally inexpensive (though there are some really cool
ones that synchronize with HDMI if you can/want to spend quite a bit extra; beyond the scope of
this instructional guide). They are also quite easy to install. As with any product, please check
the instructions for your kit before installing as they may be different from the ones I have
experience with.
The light kit in the parts list is about 16’ in length, which is plenty enough to light the perimeter of
the TV vault. To install, start with the end of the light strip that has the power chord and feed
that power cord through the hole you cut into the sanded plywood for the wire grommet.
Then peel back a section (6 inches or so) of the backing to reveal the sticky adhesive on the
LED strip and starting on in the corner, adhere the strip to the underside of the table topper
support (running along the long side of the TV vault.
Keep peeling and sticking in small lengths until you get to the next corner. At this point you’ll
need to consult with your exact lighting kit as each may have a different method of making a 90
degree turn.
Once you have made it all the way around the TV vault and are back at the corner you started
you can cut the LED strip on the designated cut line. You may end up with a little extra or be a
little short. If extra, just adhere the remaining under the table topper support, trying not to
overlap the existing light strip. If slightly too short, that’s ok, it’ll not be noticeable once the lights
are on and the action is happening.
With the LED strip now adhered to the table topper supports, from underneath the table connect
the light strip’s power supply to the strip and plug it into the outlet inside the TV box. Use wire
clamps to secure the wires to the side of the TV box so that they do not show. Also place the IR
receiver so that it is visible from under the table to the DM. If using the remote it will need direct
line of sight to the receiver.
Finally, carefully set the TV into place and plug into the outlet inside the TV box. Then take the
HDMI cable that you installed previously and plug it into the TV and using wire clamps secure it
to the TV box out of sight.
So there you have it. The electronics are done! Turn it on and enjoy the show :)
Step 14 - Foam Boarding the TV Vault & Dice Trays
You are almost there! The last bit of finish work before you can call over your gaming group for
the first epic session on your new table :)
● 5 x 5mm Craft Foam Sheets
● 2 x 2mm Craft Foam Sheets
Tools:
● Metal edge ruler with a clean, flat edge (or any straight level/ruler to use as a guide for
cutting straight lines)
● Razor utility knife (make sure to have extra blades and/or sharpener, or the break away
type of razor knife)
● DAP Weldwood Contact Cement
Foam is fun to work with, and adds a really clean look to the TV vault. It also makes the roll
action in the dice trays much nicer than rolling on bare wood as it absorbs some of the bounce.
It’s also cheap, so if you mess up it’s only a couple dollars per sheet to replace.
The first step here will be to cut out the padding for the dice trays. Take a sheet of the 2mm
craft foam and stick the corner into one of the dice trays so that it fits snug on two sides. The
rest will overlap onto the leaning edge. With the craft foam in place, take your thumb (or
whichever finger suits you) and press the foam into the rim of the dice tray where the foam
overlaps the table. When you lift the foam you will see the impression of the dice tray on the
foam. Now simply place your ruler along the line and carefully cut with your razor knife.
Repeat to complete the rectangle shape and dry fit it into the dice tray. It should fit snug and
can even be pressed into the gap between the dice tray bottom and walls.
Repeat for each of the dice trays.
Now, with all the foam for the dice trays cut, apply an even coat of the contact cement to the
bottom of the craft foam and the surface of the dice tray bottom. Let it dry (following directions
on the contact cement label). This usually takes about 5-10 minutes. You’ll know it's ready
when you touch it and it doesn’t feel tacky. At that point, carefully place one end of the craft
foam into the dice tray, and slowly press it into place.
Once the foam makes contact with the dice tray bottom it makes a permanent bond so it is
important to line it up carefully.
📔 NOTE: If you mess up, that’s ok. You can peel it off, cut another piece and try again. It’s
also a good idea to watch some tutorials on how to use contact cement with craft foam. There’s
a ton of cosplay examples out there (you might even be inspired for your next project!).
The last step to the entire build is to install the 5mm craft foam in the TV vault. This is a little
trickier than the dice trays since it will require multiple pieces, however the technique is the
same. First, take one sheet and slide it into the corner of the TV vault so that the long edge of
the sheet sits snug against the short edge of the TV vault.
Then, holding it firmly in place, use the same technique to imprint the edges of the TV box trim
into the foam sheet. Don’t worry about the wire grommet holes for now.
Now using the razor knife with a very sharp blade (IMPORTANT) and a straight edge ruler, cut
along the imprinted lines. Make sure the blade is at a 90 degree angle so the cut is vertical and
not at an angle. This will make it fit more snug against the wood and have a smooth transition
from foam to wood. Also try to make the cut in a single pass. If the blade isn’t sharp enough, or
you have to make multiple passes the edges will start to become jagged. If bad enough it can
show in the finished product.
Now dry fit the piece back into place and press to imprint the circle wire grommet opening. Then
using your razor knife, cut the circle out of the foam sheet. This doesn’t have to be perfect since
the wire grommet will hide the edges, but try to keep it close to the circle imprint.
Next you will need to shape the foam sheet for the other side so that it perfectly butts up against
the sheet you just made, making the seam as invisible as possible. To do this, follow the same
instructions as above. You’ll find that the new sheet overlaps the old sheet. This is fine for now;
just imprint and cut out the “L” shape, then dry fit to ensure it fits around the TV. Then measure
the width of the TV vault near the short end and divide by 2 and place your ruler on that point in
the foam. Then measure the same distance near the TV and line up the ruler so that it aligns
with the two measurements.
Then while pressing firmly down on the ruler and using a new blade (or a sharpened one), Cut
through both layers of craft foam at once. Again making the blade it 90 degree angle (vertical)
and pressing hard enough to cut through both sheets in one pass. Do this slowly and carefully
to avoid slipping or veering off the ruler’s edge.
Now the two pieces should fit exactly together. Last step is to press to imprint the circle wire
grommet hole and cut that out of the foam.
Repeat on the other side.
Then use the same press to imprint method to cut pieces to fill in the narrow gap along the
length of the TV. You can use the same overlap technique to get a perfect fit.
Once everything is cut and dry fit, flip the foam over and apply the contact cement to the
underside of the foam sheets and the plywood floor of the TV vault. It may be easiest to do this
using a scrap piece of foam as a “brush”. Be very careful not to drip any on the top side of the
foam as it will not come out. Once dry enough, install using the same technique as the dice
trays. Start with lining up the sheet to the corner where it will be installed, then slowly press the
foam into place. When it comes to the seam, apply a little of the contact cement to both edges
(careful not to get any on the top) and let that dry before pressing it into place. Once in place
you can work the seam by pressing and rubbing the foam with your fingers to try to make the
seam as tight as possible. You will still have a visible seam, but that’s ok.
Ok, last, last step. Press in the wire grommets, turn the TV on, plug in your laptop and start
serving up some kick ass game maps.
If you have any questions about these instructions, or would like to discuss techniques,
variations to the plans and materials, view and share project pics, etc... with other builders visit
www.neckbeardwizard.com.
For support, contact me at [email protected] or visit the website and ask your
questions there.
Happy gaming!

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Building Neckbeard Wizard’s

A comprehensive guide to building your own TV Gaming Table

Step 1 - Building the TV box 9

Step 2 - Building the Table Base 17

Step 3 - Build the “Leaning Edge” 31

Step 4 - Build the Leaning Edge Supports 50

Step 5 - Installing the Leaning Edge Supports 58

Step 6 - Stain Inner Sections 61

Step 7 - Install Leaning Edge 62

Step 8 - TV Vault Cover 69

Step 9 - Legs and Bottom Shelf 74

Step 10 - Bookshelf Unit (optional) 80

Step 11 - Sand & Stain 83

Step 13 - Lighting (optional, but really cool) 92

Step 14 - Foam Boarding the TV Vault & Dice Trays 94

⚠ Didn’t get an invite? Email me at [email protected] with the email used ⚠

Build at your own risk.

Skill Level - Beginner to Advanced

HDMI Wall Plate Brown or Black to match table. 1

1/2-in Bright Nickel Concealed Cabinet Hinge 2

For this step you will need:

Step 1.1 - Measure the TV Width

Step 1.3 - Cut a Notch for the IR Sensor (IF NEEDED)

Step 1.4 - Measure the TV Height

Once you have made your mark, cut the

Step 1.5 - Assemble the TV Box

Step 1.6 - TV Supports

When done it should look something like this:

For this step you will need:

Step 2.1 - Make Cut-Out for TV Box

Step 2.2 - Attach the TV Box

This will give us a base to attach the legs to later.

Here’s an illustration of the two methods:

Miter joints will hide the side

Butt joints are easier, but will

Do this as close to the natural edge as possible so as to reduce waste.

Step 3.1 - Cut Leaning Edge Boards

Miter Joint Option

Cutting with Miter Saw

Cutting with Circular Saw

Cutting at the Hardware Store

Step 3.3 - Cupholders

Cut the holes

Step 3.4 - Dice Trays

Hopefully that helps to visualize what the end goal is.

Repeat this for the remaining 7 dice trays.

Dice Tray Bottoms

For this step you will need:

Step 4.1 - End Pieces

Repeat this step with the other side.

Step 4.3 - Dog Ear Walls

Repeat on the other side.

The finished, dry-fit boards should look something like this:

Step 4.5 - DM Cabinet/Short TV Vault Walls

Step 4.6 - Cutout for DM Station Electrical Box

Step 5 - Installing the Leaning Edge Supports

For this step you will need:

Step 5.1 Dry Fit Supports

Step 5.2 Secure Leaning Edge Supports

Step 5.3 Cubby Separators/Supports