ACADEMY OF VOCATIONAL STUDIES SOUTHERN SERBIA

DEPARTMENT FOR TECHNOLOGICAL ART STUDIES

SEMINARY WORK

Subject: English
The theme: Denim production technology

LESKOVAC

Professor: The student:

Biljana Stanković Vukadin Ilić 41M/2023
Textile engineering
 Technology Denim Production: Part Two
(yarn Manufacturing Techniques For denim)

By: Supriya Pal

The term "denim" developed from the city of Nimes in France produced for the first time.
In the nineteenth century, heavy cotton fabrics were produced in the Rhone Vallee region
of France. These fabrics are known like
""tissue d e Nimes"" a n d "" Bl ue de Ge n es"". The term _ _ ""deni m "" a n d "" j ea n s"" d erives from
these _ marks.

Classic denim is a heavy fabric made from 100% cotton and woven from coarse indigo
dyed warp and gray undyed weft yarn. Traditional denim is hard- high density carrier
fabrics with high mass per unit area and 3/1 or 2/1 twill weave construction.

The denim is available in attractive indigo blue shades and is made for a variety
applications and in a wide range of qualities and shades. Classic denim is made made of
100% cotton dyed with Indigo blue shades. In addition to the classic indigo blue, denim is
Too colored in other fashion shades and colors, the the majority popular will be black
denim. Denim is comfortable, stylish, affordable and durable and popular among all age groups. Denim is available
in different Weight spans from 6 –– 16 oz/sk id which is categories like light denim 10-12 oz/sk id., heavy denim 14-
16 oz/sk. id.

Yarn Quality

U a row to produce Okay quality denim, the yarn quality used For denim production
should to be optimally. U rope and slasher coloring the machine the
passage of yarn is very long. So that is necessary to control the lapping of yarn in
the passage of yarn, otherwise bands of high and low density the will to be formed
in the yarn, which finally cause Senna variation in the cloth. This leads huge loss of
cloth. So the TM of the yarn is to to be appropriate to avoid any growling of yarn
during running through the the passage. The yarn should to be free of weak place,
to avoid any fractures
during dyeing. Long, thick and thin places in
the yarn can leads to prominent defects of
the fabric in the fabric, as denim is a
contrasting indigo fabric Blue warp and grey
weft yarn. The weft yarn hairiness should to be
low, otherwise
high yarn hairiness and wide variation in yarn hairiness of the weft shown
straps which is the main disadvantage of the fabric. They can also be larger
yarns cause serious fabric defects.

The quality criteria of carded OE or ring landscape yarn used For denim
production are like follows:
 The minimum paper clip length: 2.7 cm
 Short fibers proportion (less rather 12 mm long) should to be floor
40%,
 Micronaire value should to be 4.0 - 4.5,
 A twist factor : 4.5 to 5.0, For warp yarn, 4.2 For charging yarn,
  Low yarn hairiness, low accident
 Okay yarn strength and uniformity.
In the early 1990s, most yarns used in denim production were OE yarns. However, recently there is a great demand
for using more carbon ring yarns in both warp and weft, which gives cloth a softer handle.

Yarn gauge for the lowest weight jeans usually ranges from Ne 4.0 to Ne 12.5/1 or as required finished denim fabric.
Finer yarns are used for light jeans, vests, dresses and skirts and yarn reach can to be from Not 12.5 to Not 30.0.

Production of the yarn For denim

The initial stage of denim production begins with the opening and mixing of cotton fibers. Cotton fibers it is
separated from the bales into small strands and a mixture of cotton fibers is made in opening machines. Cotton is
transferred by air stream through the the opening and blending machines and fed to the Cards.

The raw material for denim yarn is mainly cotton, although the core of lycra in the base and rayon, polyester or
polypropylene in various proportions is also used in the weft. The type and quality of yarn used in denim varies
from the country to the country and regions to regions. Due to this variation in yarn type, that is very difficult for
spinners to provide a standard line that will meet all yarn quality requirements. Manufacturers Opening, mixing and
cleaning machines should offer a blow line that can meet the requirements of all the customers.

Variations in cotton color from bale to bale and region to region can cause serious shade variation in denim cloth
from lot to lot So blending playing games a very important the role to minimize the lot to lot Senna variations in
denim done cloth.

A traditional blow chamber is usually practiced with pre-opening the bales and creating a mixing pile or bucket
blending. It is then fed into the mixing tank opener and manually into the mixing chamber. However modern
blowroom line consists of of opening the bales by automatically bales plucking the machine. That removes
small tufts of cotton fibers from a number of bales in a line and are pneumatically fed into the mix the machine.

However, both systems have their advantages and disadvantages. Tank Mixing Method, manual opening of cotton
fibers from bales has the advantage of easy fiber removal material, foreign materials such as plastic materials, jute,
polypropylene, stones, hard metal pieces etc. However, this has the disadvantages of low productivity and even lack
of optimal mixing. Manual The bale opening process is more performance dependent and worker efficiency, and
there is more variation in the size of the strand fed to the bale opener. While the automatic opening of the bale offers
an even strand size cotton fibers fed to the subsequent blending and cleaning machines.

Opening is the first process in any blowing line that aims to achieve a high degree the openness of the material with
the gentle treatment of the fibers. Fiber loss should be as low as possible. Opening can be achieved in the opening to
the flocks in the blowing room and in the opening to the fibers in the card and OE spinning the machine.

Incorporating a fourth or fifth cleaning step into the blow line contributes to high fiber losses, but contribution on
the the over everything cleaning efficiency is marginal and quality reduction is significantly hanging. Modern
cleaners offer intensive but gentle cleaning. Most modern washing lines followed short cleaning lines with only two
or three cleaning points. One pre-cleaner and one or two fine cleaners per line are incorporated into a modern
blowing line. Trutzschler CVT-4 Cleaner is installed with 3 to 4 beaters in series which that cleaning in the same the
machine would prefer rather 2 or 4 machines in tandem in line.
Dust Removal

For rotor spinning dust removal is very important. Cleanliness of the clip is an
important parameter For denim yarn produced from opened the end spinning
system. Therefore, removing dust from cotton fibers is a problem all modern
lines for opening and cleaning. To remove very fine micro dust particles from
cotton fibers, is a common practice a modern washing line to install a dust
removal machine at the end opening and cleaning line only Before the tastes
power supply or lap Former, because better fiber opening means better dust
removal. Dust removal from cotton fibers which are usually carried out by
suction of air, either in between machines, by dust cages, dust extractors, or
within the the machine by normal air separation.

Dust removal usually starts with pre-cleaning the cotton fibers. However, a
separate the machine like DUSTEX of TRUTZSCHLER is very effective For
dust removal. . Rieter dust removal in machines like unimic, ERM, stationary dust removal capacitors be able to to
be used For this the purpose. OK openers like ERM, CVT cleaners Too remove the dust.

Blowroom The machine

Blowing machines have to fulfill various functions, such as supplying small fiber bundles, clean fiber bundles,
homogeneous blended tufts if more rather one diversity of fiber is used to playing cards the machine without
increasing fiber rupture, fiber bite and broken seed particles and without removing more good fiber. U to achieve
these requirements, the blow room can vary in concept and design. Do not exist universal machines for the blowing
line. Basically, a series of different machines arranged in series in any blowroom line depends among many other
things, such like: the type of raw material; the characteristics of the raw material; losing the content; dirt the content;
material permeability; the Number of different origin of the material in a Yes that mixture.

Basically, the above mentioned functions can to be achieve in different processes in the blow shop:

1. before- opening
2. before- cleaning
3. Stirring or blending
4. OK opening
5. Dust removal

Typical blowroom line is illustrated in Pomegranate. 1 .

Before opening

Efficient pre-opening of cotton fibers results in smaller tuft sizes and offers a large surface area for easy and
efficient removal of debris particles using fine openers. The trend in modern spinning mills is to replace the old
manual bale opener with an automatic bale opener, which gives smaller bale size, better opening and cleaning
efficiency. In the latest automatic bale opening machines, the strand size can be as high as 50 up to 100 grams
without breaking the fibers. The opening speed of the roller is about 1500 to 1800 rpm. The automatic bale opener
helps to maintain the homogeneity of long-term mixing and is cotton opens gently without recycling as is done in
manual bale openers. Maximum number of take-off points is available per unit time by setting the the machine
parameters.

Rieter Automatically Balls Opener (UNIfloc A 11)

The Rieter UNIfloc A 11 uses a single plucking / stripping roller, which together with the narrow mesh results in
small tufts size ( picture 2 ). . Allows up to 130 bales per side with four components (various bale types) per
mixture being processed. The length of the layout can be up to 50 m. The UNIfloc A 11 machine can process one or
two mixtures simultaneously. The production Rate is up to 1400 kg/h.

Trutzschler Automatically Balls Opener (BLENDOMAT BO-A)

Trutzschler's BLENDOMAT BO-A consist

of two plucking rollers which rotate in the
opposite direction. According to direction of
movement of the machine at there is only
one plucking roller at any time Work while
other is Raised. The the plucking roller
penetrates the bale surfaces and removes
tufts. On that time three bearing rollers give
a solid ball catching. This ensures gentle
fiber removal and gives a good opening (
Fig. 3 ).
Crosrol Automatically Balls Opener (ABO)

Crosrol automatic bale opener (ABO) that has the ability to manage up to four different groups of bales different
heights together ( picture 4 ). Production rates are up to 1500 kg per hour. Machines offer practically unlimited
track length. Users can place up to 200 bales in four groups on each side of the machine. Double counter-rotating
rollers and a specially developed grid spacing result in little tufts yes to be plucked out.

Rieter blowroom Line

The Rieter blowroom line typically consists of of automatic

bale opener UNIfloc A 11, intensively pre- cleaner
UNIclean B 11, homogeneous mixer/blender UNImik B 70
and gentle fine cleaner UNIflex B 60. For rotor spinning
coarse yarn, the maximum production is About 220 kg/h.

Rieter UNIfloc offers a gentle opening of cotton tufts with a

large surface which to provide the basis For homogeneous,
intimate blending. The UNIclean provide gentle and
effective cleaning of this surface of the strand and remove a
large trash particulate matter. The VARIOset device in
UNIclean and CLEANfeed ensures optimum cleaning
efficiency, quality, flexibility and economy by selective
junk removal setting by pressing a button.

The UNImik is a unique 3 points blending process which

ensures very intense blending and uniform
yarn quality. The OK cleaning phase consists of of a few CLEANfeed units which ensures gently cleaning and dust
removal of raw material.

Trutzschler Blowroom Line For the production of denim yarn

Trutzschler offers compact blowroom line For denim yarn production which consists of from the:

1. Automatically bales opener,

2. A fan TV500,
3. High Capacity Condenser LVSA , Before mixer BOA,
4. Double roll cleaner AXI-FLO AFC,
5. Station For separating Foreign Matter SECuromat,
 6. Multi mixer,
7. Two Method of distribution,
8. High Capacity Condenser LVSA, Cleaner Clenomat CVT4,
9. Dusting The machine Dustek DX,

Pre-cleaning

Precleaners are usually preceded by bale openers that produce small flocks with large surfaces. Since bale openers
are not equipped with cleaning devices, they cannot clean the surfaces of the flock. Even if the bale opening
machines are equipped with cleaning devices, they be able to remove only a faction of the impurities owing to the
high material permeability.

The pre-cleaning should be as gentle as possible without damaging the fibers and creating more nep. Seeds and
larger particles of garbage should not be crushed, because the removal of smaller particles of garbage is difficult.
Correctly pre-opening and pre-cleaning ensures efficient removal of debris by fine openers. Dust removal should be
started at this stage of the blowing process. Rieter's Uniclean B11 and Trutzschler's Akiflov or Makiflov are some of
the machines which ensures efficient pre-cleaning.

Rieter VarioSet

Rieter offers unique "VARIOSET" through the which selective trash removal is possible. Getting lost Amount be
able to to be changed in a reach of 1:10.
The opening and cleaning of cotton fibers depends on several parameters such as the distance between them paddle
and feed roller, mixing speed and grid adjustment. The Rieter VarioSet system adjusts several parameters during
machine operation. Cleaning intensity (0.0 to 1.0) and relative amount waste (1 to 10) can be entered in the
VarioSet. These two parameters adjust the speed and network bars placed on the Rieter UNIclean B12 cleaner in
order to obtain the required level of extracted waste. In UNIflex B 60 cleaner fiber length, relative Amount of losing
(1 up to 10) and cleaning intensity (0.0 to 1.0) are entered.

BLENDING:

Uneven blending of different cotton fibers can lead to pilling or streaking in the denim fabric. Hence adequate
mixing / blending of cotton fiber is very important. More intense mixing is required if the cotton of various
parameters such as fineness, color and staple length are processed simultaneously. Trutzschler tandem mixing
concept guarantees a maximum homogeneous mixing and that is very useful if the mixing condition is very high (
Fig. 6 ).
Several machine manufacturers offer a multiple mixer that gives good long-lasting mixing. multi- the mixer consists
of several (from six to eight) grooved chambers into which the material is filled from above. The material is then
removed from all chutes simultaneously.

Trutzschler multi mixer can have 6 or 10 hulls ( picture 7 ). All trunks are filled with material from above. The
material is then removed from the entire trunk through a conveyor belt. Trutzschler also offers a multi-mixer MCM
6 with cleaner CLEANOMAT CKSL Machines.

Rieter UNImik blending the machine

Rieter UNImik consists of three parts: storage compartment, intermediate chamber and delivery section. Flocks are
fed in J- shaped chutes (2) ( Fig. 8 & 9 ) which is arranged one and for the other in storage compartment. A
conveyor belt (3) then carries the supplies through the chamber to the take-off unit. The material columns are like
that converted from the vertical in the horizontally.

OK Cleaning

Fine cleaning agents can have single or multiple opening rollers depending on the quantity and a kind of trash in
cotton. If single-opening roller cleaners are used, then the fine cleaning number points can be one or two.
Trutzschler offers a single-opening CVT1 rolling mill cotton. U the case of saw ginned cotton CVT3 or CVT4
machines with 3 or 4 opening rollers be able to to be used. The CVT1, CVT3, CVT4 etc consists of of opening
roller, deflector knives, saws, motes knives and vacuuming hood
which act as cleaning points ( picture 10 ). Garbage particles that are removed due to centrifugal forces are
separated at the motes knives and then to suck far by the vacuuming.

Trutzschler pioneered the use of multiple agitators/cleaners in tandem on the same machine. The the machine has
both a clamped and a non-clamped system for feeding the material to the brushes. At the first batsman the the feed
of the material is clamped through the feed rollers which give an intense impact. In the subsequent beaters the
material is transferred in untightened manner which that do not know cleaning. The gradual an increase in beater
speed, fineness of wear, and angle of wear teeth from the first to the last offer of the beater progressive cleaning of
the material.

Cards

The cards play an important role in the quality of the denim yarn and in the production efficiency. Carding quality is
influenced in the area of cylinder, flat and stationary carding segments. A few factors, such like cylinder speed,
clothes finesse, distance between cylinder and apartments, distance between the cylinder and the carding segments
affect the carding quality. The quality of the yarn is straightforward connected to the quality of card clip.

The Rieter card C60 and Trutzschler TC 07 are equipped with a unidirectional feed system that results gentle
treatment of the fibers because the fiber feed and feed rotation are in the same direction. Both cards are equipped
with multiple licker-in For better cleaning of the power supply material.

Rieter C 60 Card has 50% more Work width (from the 1 m to 1.5 m) like compare to their own The previous one model C
51. Trutzschler TC 07 with the longest carding section (2.82 m) provides more intensive combing and higher
production. The pre-carding area ensures better opening and optimal fiber mesh preparation For better playing cards.

The pre-carding zone of the Rieter C 60 Card extracts the impurities and the suction hoods transfer them to
centralized losing chamber. The post-carding zone of Rieter C 60 Card has 2 playing cards elements. The
Trutzschler TC 07 card has a pre-carding zone with 3 carding elements and 3 cleaning elements. The post office-
playing cards areas of this card has 6 playing cards segments with 3 cleaning elements.

Rieter integrated grinding system (IGS-Classic for grinding cylindrical wire and IGS-Top for flat wire grinding)
offers better quality in conditions of reduction in neps and trash of card clip.

Rieter medium and long-term automatic leveler on C 60 control card card, number of cuts variations, number of CV
% and unevenness. The Integral Power supply Tray SENSOFEED of Trutzschler TC 07 card all the time scans
the
the thickness of the woven web and adjusts the feed roll speed as required. In long-term automatic leveling system,
the cutting mass is measured by a sensor in the card cutting tube and the feed speed Roller is customized thus.

Today, cards are integrated with 3-on-3 draws that can reduce one draw frame passage specifically for turning the
rotor. Trutzschler offers IDF integrated draw frame with card TC 07. It has 3 across 3 two-zone drafting system with
a draft of 3 times. The delivery speed is 500 m/min (maximum).

Drav frames

For the production of OE denim yarn, the number of draw passes is the most important. For the open end spinning
line two dravframe passage is the standard. Even though New spinning mills in USA and Europe use only one
frame to draw the auto-leveler. However, passing two draft frames is believed to help achieved better results in
dyeing, weaving, etc. Specifications of different brands of Drav frames are given in A table 1 .

A table 1: Specifications of different it makes of Drav Ram

Lakshmi TOYOTA
Rieter Machine Trutzschler
Especially Machine Works Wolf spa Textiles
works doo GmbH & Co.
Lts The
machine
Model LR SB 851 RSB Unimax DX8 TD 03
Delivery speed
800 m/min 1100 m/min 1050 m/min 1000 m/min 1000 m/min
(max.)
3-on-3 Sa 4-over-3 Sa 3-on-4 Sa 3-on-3 Sa 4-over-3 Sa
Production
pressure Bar pressure Bar pressure Bar pressure Bar pressure Bar
system
Draft reach 3.05 to 11.6 4.5 to 11.6 4 to 11.6 4 to 14 4 to 11
Spring or
Roller loading Pneumatic Pneumatic Spring Pneumatic
hydraulic
Autoleveller Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Single or twin Single or twin Single or twin
Not of delivery One or a twin One
(LD0/6) (SB) (Duomak)
Auto Auto
Can system Auto download Auto Auto download
(delivery) download (round or download download (round or
(round cans) rectangle (round cans) (round cans) rectangle
cans) cans)

Ritter offers the RSB-D 40 auto-leveling frame and SB-D 40 drag frame where quality can to be significantly
improved ( Figure 11 ). Delivery speeds up to 1100 m/min. Superior yarn regularity (Uster CV%) can be achieved
with this framework. The drawbar has an automatic leveling function AUTOset, precise fiber guidance in the
drawing system. New suction system with periodic lift cleaning lips on the the cannon rollers promoted the yarn
cleanliness.
In the case of carded cotton processing in ring spinning, the RSB-D 40 delivery speeds of 850 m/min are achieve in
mill operations. However in rotor spinning Even hanging delivery speed be able to to be achieve.

AUTO DRAFT Trutzschler TD 03 draft frame estimates draft values in only one minute. It takes into account
several important parameters such as fiber-to-fiber, fiber-to-metal friction friction, etc., while calculating the break
draft. Trutzschler frame TD03 can be equipped with round or rectangular cans. Rectangular cans are especially
efficient.

Rotor Spinning The machine

Modern open rotors are highly productive, economical and consume less energy successful in the production of
denim yarn. The rotor speed in the latest machine exceeds 150,000 rpm and download speed 300 m/min. Packaging
weighing up to 5 to 6 kg can be made in the latest machine which subsequently useful to size up the productivity in
subsequent process in denim production. Predetermined yarn length are wound to packets with high accuracy that
reduces loss in ball bending in the case of rope dyeing and direct bending in the case of denim rope dyeing process.
Anti-patterning systems, electronic yarn monitoring system, foreign fiber separation system reduce fabric defects
and end breaks in denim weaving. Fantastic yarn preparation system incorporated in the latest open-type spinning
machine offers a variety of fashionable denim production, which that a value he added products.

Open end yarn Denim Factory

Rieter's R40 rotor spinning machine is the result of a collaboration between Suesen and Rieter. The The rotor
spinning machine R40 can spin yarns in the amount of Ne 3-60 / 200-10 tex. Latest offer R 40 maximum
productivity with a maximum length of up to 500 spinning positions per the machine, up to 350
m/min delivery, rotor speed up to 160,000 rpm, up to 4 robots ( Fig. 13 ). With the maximum machine length,
delivery speeds of up to 270 m/min can be achieved. However, with less room to turn, 350 m/min can be achieved.
Slub yarn, Multicount and Multitwist yarn can be produced as additional feature, at full the machine length.

Slub denim cloth is a Current fashion trend. So the demand For slub yarn is Too very high. By Using special
opening roller, an effect can be created in the yarn. R 40 can be equipped with Caipo device For slub yarn, multi-
count and multi-twist.

Pomegranate. 13: Rieter rotor spinning the machine

The Rieter BT rotor spinning machine is equipped with a yarn production attachment from Caipo Automazione,
Italy. Motorized variable cutting feed system can produce fine yarn (coarse and fine), multicount with twist
variation, multitwist etc.

The Schlafhorst Autocoro 480 offers hanging productivity with up to 480 spinning positions and the Corobox
SE12. The double disc bearing Corobok SE 12 offers high rotor speeds of 150,000 rpm at 480 rotating positions.
Coarse yarn is spun at take-up speeds of up to 300 m/min, which ensures the highest productivity. The Autocoro 480
is equipped with up to 4 Coromat units per machine. Corobok SE12 universal SpinBok for all types of fibers and
yarns, offers maximum productivity and optimal quality. Yarn counts from Ne 4 to Ne 60 can be made with a draft
range of 20 up to 450 fold. Corobox SE12 equipped with an individual engine controlled SDSI Single Drive Sliver
Intake that guarantees accurate defined clip suction. Fancy yarn be able to to be produced in Autocoro 480.

Schlafhorst Autocoro 480 The Corobok SE 12

Belcoro spinning components used in the spinbox offer outstanding yarn quality and ensure long service life and
high, repeatable yarn quality. The Autocoro 480 is equipped with the new Corolab KSF which ensures optimum
yarn clearing with 100% foreign material detection. The New Corolab KSF which not only ensures Okay yarn
quality, but and 100% digital controlled piecing.

Fancination

Modern ring and open spinning machines can be fitted with a certain accessory which can create predetermined yarn
effects. These yarn effects are multi-layered, layers of different lengths and different spacing between slubs.

The rotor machine offers enormous flexibility in terms of fancy yarn production. Various devices can be included in
the rotor the machine to produce fanci/slub yarn. Schlafhorst Autocoro 480 rotor spinning the machine is fitted with
a fancy yarn device known as 'FancyNation'. A small stepper motor is used for they create a fancy/slub effect through
the Single Drive Sliver Intake (SDSI). It ensures precise dosing fiber power supply at every spinning position. The
fancy yarn software "FancyPilot" forms the basis of Fancination
. It can produce and simulate the effects of different fancy yarns in the fabric stage without actual production yarn.
The FancyPilot software tool generates production data for the Autocoro 480 directly from design. That be able to
simply transfer the data to the Informants fancy yarn production can getting started immediately.

One can see the fancy yarn effect in 3D simulations of woven and knitted fabrics. Digital Corolab technology
reliably follows the fancy yarn in every spinning position. Effects in existing yarns can too to be reproduced quickly
and simply. Fancination analysis the effect style and generates a data record For
th e Autocor o 480 . F a n c i i _ a c t s and with th e ""mem o r i "" about f the fans _ _ yarn production . _ _ _ That c
a n b e access _ all spinning settings and pieces for fancy yarns already produced in the database which enables to
reproduce any yarn quickly at any time.

Ring denim

Ring spinning is the original former standard method of producing denim fabric. In the early 1970s, Texas is
normally made with ring yarn, would prefer rather open end yarn. The ring denim then gradually replaced by OE
denim For reasons of productivity.

With the of course of popularity of vintage-look Blue jeans and retro denim wave, ring denim was reintroduced. The
soft feel and unique surface characteristics of Ring denim gradually became popular. The retro look of ring denim
can be re-enhanced through different finishes and washes. U In the ring denim world, some other types of denim are
also becoming very popular. One of them is stretching denim.

Saurer offers the denim ring spinning machines and components especially developed For denim production.

Zinser offers various spinning machines for denim production with new potential for cost reduction as well as
increased productivity.

Pomegranate. 14: Zinser 670 BigPac rough yarn

roving frame, ideal For denim applications

The Zinser 670 BigPac roving frame was special

developed for the production of coarse yarn ( picture
14 ). The spool size of 20 by 7 inches increases
productivity and bobbin weight up to 4 kg be able to
to be made which drastically reduced the
operating times and settings. Longer working time of the bobbin on the roving frame and on the ring spinning
machines reduce the number of bobbin changes. This is very useful during rough production yarn, especially in the
field of denim.

Zinser 351-cotton ring spinning the machine

The Zinser 351, which is ideal for denim applications, is equipped with ServoDraft (an electronic drafting system
drive), New CoVeMat (automatically offer) and OptiSuction (electronic vacuuming low pressure regulation).
Cop weight of up to 200 grams are possible in this machine For economic production of denim yarn.

Zinser FancyDraft

Zinser offers the FancyDraft fancy yarn system that produced fancy ring yarn in the Zinser 351/451 ring a machine
for spinning both short and long fibers. With electronically controlled production ServoDraft system drive equipped
in Zinser 351, FancyDraft can produce different types of fancy yarn. The draft as well as the twist can be changed in
FancyDraft in a controlled manner. Different the parameter can be adjusted through the new EasySpin graphics
engine user interface. Fantastic effects with different thickness, length and twist are built into the yarn. Plates of
different lengths and diameters can be produced with this attachment. The twist be able to Too to be diverse For
multitwist yarn production.
Multi-Count The effect in Denim

'Count' is the thickness of the yarn used in the fabric. Multicount fabric is made from yarns of different thicknesses
or the variation in number along the length that gives a unique luxurious look to the denim fabric. However wash
that superior on the multicount.

Multiply yarn is becoming very popular in denim which is produced by a special machine. multi- count effect is
made by having controlled count Changes in length (like short like 2 meters) while maintenance a constant twist
level.

Multicount denim

The production of multiple yarns follows the basic principles of yarn production. In the production of multiple
speeds of the production roller are varied by additional servo motors for adjustment twist coefficient to every type of
count combined along with the same yarn.

A mass variation in the yarn is made by varying the blueprints (main draft). The the main one draft is reduced
to create fancy effects in the yarn. To achieve this, the speed of the middle and rear bottom rollers is temporary
increased.

Multi-Twist The effect

The effect of multiple twist in yarns is produced by applying different twist coefficients to the same number of
yarns. Multi-ply yarn is produced using controlled, precise acceleration of the production roll. These variations in
twist Create variations in the yarn die suction which offers a special cloth appearance.

Pomegranate. 15: Multi-twist denim

Twist variations in the yarn are included by varying the delivery speed to the spinning machine. OK to obtain the
twist variation in the yarn, the ratio of the speed of the front lower roller compared to the constant spinning speed
(Synchro Drive) is diverse while the draft remains constant.

Pomegranate. 16: Multi-twist principle

Amsler Slub

AMSLER-TEKS AG is a Swiss company that offers equipment and accompanying software for elegant and elastic
yarn production. AMSLER control device be able to to be attached with almost all kinds of of spinning machines.
That is a microprocessor controlled servomotor system, which controls the spinning process to produce wish effect
in the yarn.

Amsler Slub yarn machines can produce the effect of underlay and multiple twist in open-end spinning. While in the
case of ring spinning, that can produce the ground service, multi-count and multi-twist-effect.

Slub denim

Amsler slub yarn can be produced on open or ring spinning. Normally Amsler's effect in denim is made at the open
end. This is an open end spinning accessory that allows for basting and multiple spins effects in the yarn. U ring
spinning, slub yarn is I wish I could varying speed of the power supply and middle Roller and at constant speed the
production Roller.

In the ring spinning machine, the servo drive system is connected to the rear and middle rollers through a special
Transmission. The servo motor is started only at the moment of formation of the wave and additional speed is given
drafting the system, which disturb the normal yarn formation.

U the case of opened the end spinning, the slub yarn is produced in the same principle which is explained with the
Pomegranate. 17 :
 Pomegranate. 17: Principle of slub production in opened the end spinning

Stretch denim

Stretch denim is a completely fashionable fabric and very popular in women's and children's clothing due to its
stretchability character. The stretchy nature of stretch denim fits closely to the body without being restrictive getting
around. Due to the longitudinal elasticity of stretch denim, it is more comfortable when sitting or bending down, that
fit well because to his cross elasticity. The stretch out denim cloth is made with Spandex core landscape yarn.

Core-spun yarn be able to Too to be produced in ring spinning, open end and air jet spinning machines. The the
spandex filament core is fed through an open spinning rotor shaft or air jet spindle frame, and the cotton fiber is
wrapped around the spandex filament to form a yarn core. The properties of this yarn is almost similar to ring yarns,
however open and air jet core-spun yarn have less nodes and connectors like Compared to ring core-spun yarn.

Spandex Core landscape Denim

 Conventional Core spinning attachment in Ring Ram

In ring spinning machines, core yarns can be produced by incorporating spandex/lycra filament on the back side
of the machine's front drawing roller ( Figure 18 ). Spandex ring yarn is produced when the compiled cotton
fibers twist eye the spandex filament yarn.

Pomegranate. 18a: Conventional Core spinning attachment in Ring Ram

Elastic core yarns can be produced in ring spinning consisting of an elastic core around which they are joined fibers
are wound ( Fig. 18a ).

18b: Elastic core yarn

The elastic filament is advance draft approx. 2.5- to 4 times Before will be inserted to the spinning zone in
front of the front upper rollers. This process has the advantage of being completely thread sensitive wrapped up by
paper clip fibers ( Fig. 18b ).

Double elastic Raw Spun / Elastic spin-twisted yarn

Elastic spun yarn can be produced by combining the CoreSpun and SiroSpun processes, which produces direct
woven, double stretch SiroSpun yarn on a spinning machine. In production elastic twisted yarn, the two pendulum
fibers are drawn parallel and the elastic filament is then presented in the front Couple of drafting rollers ( Fig. 19 ).
 Pomegranate. 19: Elastic spin-twisted yarn

Zinser short and long paper clip ring spinning machines be able to to be equipped with CoreSpun and Raw Spun units.

Elastic OE rotor yarn

The Schlafhorst BD 340 fillet rotor machine can produce elastic core spun yarn. The elastane core of the filament is
it is fed through a hollow rotor axis that is covered with rotor yarn produced in the rotor from chopped fibers
material ( Fig. 20 ). A twist is not Yes that in the core filament yarn, like that elasticity of the filament is maintained.

Fig. 20: Elastic OE Rotor yarn

The rotor core yarn can also be produced on the Rieter BT 924 rotor spinning machine. Filament core (elastic or
inelastic) is fed through a special device through a guide tube. The core of filament yarn is covered, buried by the
paper clip fiber yarn.

Pomegranate. 21: Core landscape yarn production by rotor spinning

Elastic covered, buried twist yarn

The ElastoTwister from Saurer Hamel / Volkmann can produce an elastic covered twisted yarn in which the elastic
core of the filament yarn is covered with a twisted filling material. Covering yarn, produced without a balloon, has
not twisted core yarn ( Fig. 22 ).

Pomegranate. 22: Elastic covered, buried twist yarn

Stretch Denim

Elastic match yarn

Elastic yarn layers can be produced in a two-for-one twisting machine. Elastic filament yarn i single yarns and are
placed on a double bobbin and twisted into each other in a twisting pot ( Fig. 23 ). This twist process offers high
productivity.

Pomegranate. 23: Elastic match yarn

The elastic match yarn is characterized by a high uniformity, Okay a tear resistance and elongation.

Fancy yarn are setting New trends in denim and the demand and popularity of fancy denim are an increase demand
during the the world. Fancy yarn, whether used For outerwear, household or industrial textile, Now contributed a
the main one the role of all yarn produced Worldwide. Fancy yarn from ring and rotor spinning are more
commonly used in denim and home textiles, as well as single jersey and OK fabrics for outerwear.

References:

1) www.crosrol.co.uk/pdf/blovroom.pdf
2) National Seminar on the denim, The Textiles Association (India), Works on the National Seminar on
the Denim 30th _ & 31 August 1996,
3) http://tektilearticles4u.blogspot.com/2009/09/hov-blovroom-vorks.html
4) www.oerlikontektile.com/Portaldata/1/...tektile.../Ring_Denim.pdf
5) vvv.oerlikontektile.com /Portaldata/1/Resources/.../Fancination.pdf ,
6) www.rieter.com/.../rotor-spinning/r-40-rotor-spinning-machine/ -,
7) vvv.cottoniarnmarket.net/.../Rieter%20-%20Rotor%20Spinning%20Machine%20R%2040.pdf ,
8) http://www.cottoniarnmarket.net/OASMTP/Trutzschler%20auto%20leveller%20Drav%20Frame
%20TD%2003%20%E2%80%93%20Manual.pdf
9) http://vvv.indiantektilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=2010 ,
10) http://m itektilenotes.blogspot.com/2010/05/ making-fanci-denim-amsler-slub.html,
11) http: //vvv.rieter.com/cz/tektile/short-staple-iarn/spinning-preparation/ sbrsb-d-40-drav-frame/ ,
12) www.oerlikontektile.com/Portaldata/1/.../saurer_tektile.../Elasto.pdf -
13) www.tektiletechnologi.co.cc/.../processparblovroom.htm -

The author is Di. Manager (TKM) at Shri Lakshmi Cotsin Limited, UPSIDC Industrial Area, Malvan, Dist.
Fatehpur, UP