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2202: Simple
Plumbing for the Home, by Anonymous

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Title: USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 2202: Simple Plumbing for the Home

Author: Anonymous

Release Date: April 28, 2019 [EBook #59381]

Language: English

*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SIMPLE PLUMBING FOR THE HOME ***

Produced by Tom Cosmas compiled from images made available

by The Internet Archive.

SIMPLE
PLUMBING
REPAIRS
■ for the Home
and Farmstead

Farmers' Bulletin No. 2202

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF
AGRICULTURE

CONTENTS
Page
Repairing water faucets and valves 1
 Frostproof hydrants 4
Repairing leaks in pipes and tanks 5
Pipes 5
Tanks 7
Water hammer 8
Frozen water pipes 8
Preventing freezing 8
Thawing 8
Repairing water closets 9
Flushing mechanism 9
Bowl removal 10
Tank "sweating" 12
Clearing clogged drains 12
Fixture and floor drains 12
Outside drains 13
Tools and spare parts 13
Emergencies 14

Prepared by
Northeastern Region
Agricultural Research Service

This bulletin supersedes Farmers' Bulletin

1460, "Simple Plumbing Repairs in the Home."

Washington, D.C.
Revised December 1972

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government

Printing:
Office, Washington, D.C. 20402 - Price 15 cents
Stock Number 0100-02684
 SIMPLE PLUMBING REPAIRS
■ for the Home and Farmstead

You can save money and avoid delays by making minor plumbing
repairs yourself.
Jobs that a farmer or homeowner can do with a few basic tools include:

Repairing water faucets and valves.

Repairing leaks in pipes and tanks.
Thawing frozen pipes.
Repairing water closets.
Cleaning clogged drains.

Extensive plumbing repairs or alterations in the plumbing system

usually require authorization from local authorities and possibly inspection
of the completed work. Therefore such work should be done by a qualified
or licensed plumber.

REPAIRING WATER FAUCETS AND VALVES

Faucets and globe valves, the type of shutoff valves commonly used in
home water systems, are very similar in construction (fig. 1) and repair
instructions given below apply to both. Your faucets or valves may differ
somewhat in general design from the one shown in figure 1, because both
faucets and valves come in a wide variety of styles.
Mixing faucets, which are found on sinks, laundry trays, and bathtubs,
are actually two separate units with a common spout. Each unit is
independently repaired.
Dripping faucets are the most common plumbing problem. Normally a
new washer is all that is required. If water leaks around the stem, either the
packing is loose or needs replacing. To repair the faucet, first shut off the
water at the shutoff valve nearest the particular faucet.
Disassemble the faucet by removing the handle, packing nut, packing,
and stem in that order. You may have to set the handle back on the stem and
use it to unscrew and remove the stem.
Remove the screw and worn washer from the stem. Clean the washer
cup and install a new washer of the proper size and type.
Reassemble the faucet. Handles of mixing faucets should be in matched
positions.
If a washer requires frequent replacement, it may be the wrong type or
the seat may be rough and scoring the washer. Flat washers are used on
seats having a crown or round ridge for the washer seat. Tapered or rounded
washers are used with tapered seats. These seats may be replaced if worn or
damaged.
Replaceable seats have either a square or hex shaped water passage for
the seat removal tool. Seat dressing tools are available for non-replaceable
seats.
Occasionally a faucet will be noisy when water is flowing. This may be
due to a loose washer or worn threads on the stem and receiver, permitting
the stem to vibrate or chatter. Pressing down on the handle will stop stem
vibration but will not affect a loose washer.
 Figure 1.—Globe type angle valve. Faucets are
similar in construction.
Replacement stems are available; however, if the receiving threads are
worn excessively a new stem would not eliminate the problem completely.
In some faucets it is possible to replace the stem receiver, the stem, and the
seat, thus restoring all normal wearing parts within the faucet.
Several new faucet designs aimed at easier operation, eliminating drip,
and promoting long service life, are on the market. Instructions for repair
may be obtained from dealers.
If a shower head drips, the supply valve has not been fully closed, or the
valve needs repair.
After extended use and several repairs, some valves will no longer give
tight shutoff and must be replaced. When this becomes necessary, it may be
advisable to upgrade the quality with equipment having better flow
characteristics and longer-life design and materials. In some cases, ball
valves will deliver more water than globe valves. Some globe valves deliver
more flow than others for identical pipe sizes. Y-pattern globe valves, in
straight runs of pipe, have better flow characteristics than straight stop
valves. Figure 2 shows the features of different types of valves.

Figure 2.—Different types of valves: A, Glove

valve; note large passages of water. B, Y-
pattern globe valve; the flow is almost
straight. C, Ball valve, straight flow; some
makes are available with the port in the ball
the same diameter as the pipe.

PRECAUTIONS
Polluted water or sewage may carry such diseases as typhoid fever and
amoebic dysentery. If you do your own plumbing work, be sure that—

There are no leaks in drainpipes through which sewage or sewage

gases can escape.
There are no cross connections between piping carrying water from
different sources unless there can be reasonable certainty that all
sources are safe and will remain safe.
There can be no back siphonage of water from plumbing fixtures or
other containers into the water-supply system.
 Once a pipe has become polluted, it may be difficult to free it of the
pollution. For this reason, building codes do not permit the use of second-
hand pipe. All initial piping and parts and subsequent replacements should
be new.
Since a plumbing system will require service from time to time, shutoff
valves should be installed at strategic locations so that an affected portion
can be isolated (water flow to it cut off) with minimum disturbance to
service in the rest of the system. Shutoff valves are usually provided on the
water closet supply line, on the hot- and cold-water supply line to each sink,
tub, and lavatory, and on the water heater supply line. Drain valves are
usually installed for water-supply piping systems and for hot-water storage
tanks.
A pressure-relief valve should be installed for the water heater storage
tank to relieve pressure buildup in case of overheating.
 Figure 3.—Frostproof hydrant; A, Closed;
B, opened. As soon as the hydrant is closed, water
left in the riser drains out the drain tube as shown in
A. This prevents water from freezing in the hydrant in
cold weather.

FROSTPROOF HYDRANTS
 Frostproof hydrants are basically faucets, although they may differ
somewhat in design from ordinary faucets.
Two important features of a frostproof hydrant are: (1) The valve is
installed under ground—below the frostline—to prevent freezing, and (2)
the valve is designed to drain the water from the hydrant when the valve is
closed.
Figure 3 shows one type of frostproof hydrant. It works as follows:
When the handle is raised, the piston rises, opening the valve. Water flows
from the supply pipe into the cylinder, up through the riser, and out the
spout. When the handle is pushed down, the piston goes down, closing the
valve and stopping the flow of water. Water left in the hydrant flows out the
drain tube into a small gravel-filled dry well or drain pit.

Figure 4.—Vacuum breaker arrangement for

outside hose hydrant.
 As with ordinary faucets, leakage will probably be the most common
trouble encountered with frostproof hydrants. Worn packing, gaskets, and
washers can cause leakage. Disassemble the hydrant as necessary to replace
or repair these and other parts.
Frostproof yard hydrants having buried drains can be health hazards.
The vacuum created by water flowing from the hydrant may draw in
contaminated water standing above the hydrant drain level. Such hydrants
should be used only where positive drainage can be provided.
Frostproof wall hydrants (fig. 4) are the preferred type. For servicing
sprayers using hazardous chemicals, hydrants having backflow protection
should be used (fig. 5).

REPAIRING LEAKS IN PIPES AND TANKS

Pipes
Leaks in pipes usually result from corrosion or from damage to the pipe.
Pipes may be damaged by freezing, by vibration caused by machinery
operating nearby, by water hammer, or by animals bumping into the pipe.
(Water hammer is discussed on P. 8)
 Figure 5.—Protected wall hydrant suitable for
filling agricultural sprayers.
Corrosion
Occasionally waters are encountered that corrode metal pipe and tubing.
(Some acid soils also corrode metal pipe and tubing.)
The corrosion usually occurs, in varying degrees, along the entire length
of pipe rather than at some particular point. An exception would be where
dissimilar metals, such as copper and steel, are joined.
Treatment of the water may solve the problem of corrosion.[1]
Otherwise, you may have to replace the piping with a type made of material
that will be less subject to the corrosive action of the water.
[1] For information about water treatment, see FB 2248, "Treating Farmstead
and Rural Home Water Systems." You can get a free copy from your county
agricultural agent or write the Office of Information, U.S. Department of
Agriculture, Washington, D.C. 20250. Include your ZIP Code in your return
address.
 It is good practice to get a chemical analysis of the water before
selecting materials for a plumbing system. Your State college or university
may be equipped to make an analysis; if not, you can have it done by a
private laboratory.

Repairing Leaks
Pipes that are split by hard freezing must be replaced.
A leak at a threaded connection can often be stopped by unscrewing the
fitting and applying a pipe joint compound that will seal the joint when the
fitting is screwed back together.
Small leaks in a pipe can often be repaired with a rubber patch and
metal clamp or sleeve. This must be considered as an emergency repair job
and should be followed by permanent repair as soon as practicable.
Large leaks in a pipe may require cutting out the damaged section and
installing a new piece of pipe. At least one union will be required unless the
leak is near the end of the pipe. You can make a temporary repair with
plastic or rubber tubing. The tubing must be strong enough to withstand the
normal water pressure in the pipe. It should be slipped over the open ends
of the piping and fastened with pipe clamps or several turns of wire.
Vibration sometimes breaks solder joints in copper tubing, causing
leaks. If the joint is accessible, clean and resolder it. The tubing must be dry
before it can be heated to soldering temperature. Leaks in places not readily
accessible usually require the services of a plumber and sometimes of both
a plumber and a carpenter.

Tanks
Leaks in tanks are usually caused by corrosion. Sometimes, a safety
valve may fail to open and the pressure developed will spring a leak.
While a leak may occur at only one place in the tank wall, the wall may
also be corroded thin in other places. Therefore, any repair should be
considered as temporary, and the tank should be replaced as soon as
possible.
 A leak can be temporarily repaired with a toggle bolt, rubber gasket,
and brass washer, as shown in figure 6. You may have to drill or ream the
hole larger to insert the toggle bolt. Draw the bolt up tight to compress the
rubber gasket against the tank wall.

Figure 6.—Closing a hole in a tank: A, The link

of the toggle bolt is passed through the hole
in the tank (hole is enlarged if necessary).
B, Side view of tank edge (nut is drawn up
tightly to compress washer and gasket
against tank). C, Outside view of
completed repair.

WATER HAMMER
Water hammer sometimes occurs when a faucet is suddenly closed.
When the flow of water is suddenly stopped, its kinetic energy is expended
against the walls of the piping. This causes the piping to vibrate, and leaks
or other damage may result.
 Water hammer may be prevented or its severity reduced by installing an
air chamber just ahead of the faucet. The air chamber may be a piece of air-
filled pipe or tubing, about 2 feet long, extending vertically from the pipe. It
must be airtight. Commercial devices designed to prevent water hammer are
also available.
An air chamber requires occasional replenishing of the air to prevent it
from becoming water-logged—that is, full of water instead of air.
A properly operating hydropneumatic tank, such as the type used in
individual water systems, serves as an air chamber, preventing or reducing
water hammer.

FROZEN WATER PIPES

In cold weather, water may freeze in underground pipes laid above the
frostline or in pipes in unheated buildings, in open crawl spaces under
buildings, or in outside walls.
When water freezes it expands. Unless a pipe can also expand, it may
rupture when the water freezes. Iron pipe and steel pipe do not expand
appreciably. Copper pipe will stretch some, but does not resume its original
dimensions when thawed out; repeated freezings will cause it to fail
eventually. Flexible plastic tubing can stand repeated freezes, but it is good
practice to prevent it from freezing.

Preventing Freezing
Pipes may be insulated to prevent freezing, but this is not a completely
dependable method. Insulation does not stop the loss of heat from the pipe
—merely slows it down—and the water may freeze if it stands in the pipe
long enough at below-freezing temperature. Also, if the insulation becomes
wet, it may lose its effectiveness.
Electric heating cable can be used to prevent pipes from freezing. The
cable should be wrapped around the pipe and covered with insulation.
 Thawing
Use of electric heating cable is a good method of thawing frozen pipe,
because the entire heated length of the pipe is thawed at one time.
Thawing pipe with a blowtorch can be dangerous. The water may get
hot enough at the point where the torch is applied to generate sufficient
steam under pressure to rupture the pipe. Steam from the break could
severely scald you.
Thawing pipe with hot water is safer than thawing with a blowtorch.
One method is to cover the pipe with rags and then pour the hot water over
the rags.
When thawing pipe with a blowtorch, hot water, or similar methods,
open a faucet and start thawing at that point. The open faucet will permit
steam to escape, thus reducing the chance of the buildup of dangerous
pressure. Do not allow the steam to condense and refreeze before it reaches
the faucet.
Underground metal pipes can be thawed by passing a low-voltage
electric current through them. The current will heat the entire length of pipe
through which it passes. Both ends of the pipe must be open to prevent the
buildup of steam pressure.
CAUTION: This method of thawing frozen pipe can be dangerous and
should be done by an experienced person only. It cannot be used to thaw
plastic tubing or other non-electricity-conducting pipe or tubing.

REPAIRING WATER CLOSETS

Water closets (commonly called toilets) vary in general design and in
the design of the flushing mechanism. But they are enough alike that
general repair instructions can suffice for all designs.

Flushing Mechanism
 Figure 7 shows a common type of flushing mechanism. Parts that
usually require repair are the flush valve, the intake (float) valve, and the
float ball.
In areas of corrosive water, the usual copper flushing mechanism may
deteriorate in a comparatively short time. In such cases, it may be advisable
to replace the corroded parts with plastic parts. You can even buy plastic
float balls.

Flush Valve
The rubber ball of the flush valve may get soft or out of shape and fail
to seat properly. This causes the valve to leak. Unscrew the ball from the lift
wire and install a new one.
The trip lever or lift wire may corrode and fail to work smoothly, or the
lift wire may bind in the guides. Disassemble and clean off corrosion or
replace parts as necessary.
Most plumbing codes require a cutoff valve in the supply line to the
flush tank, which makes it unnecessary to close down the whole system
(fig. 7). If this valve was not installed, you can stop the flow of water by
propping up the float with a piece of wood. Be careful not to bend the float
rod out of alignment.

Intake (Float) Valve

A worn plunger washer in the supply valve will cause the valve to leak.
To replace the washer—

Shut off the water and drain the tank.

Unscrew the two thumb-screws that hold the levers and push out the
levers.
Lift out the plunger, unscrew the cup on the bottom, and insert a new
washer. The washer is made of material such as rubber or leather.
Examine the washer seat. If nicked or rough, it may need refacing.

If the float-valve assembly is badly corroded, replace it.

 Figure 7.—Water closet (toilet) flush tank.
Float Ball
The float ball may develop a leak and fail to rise to the proper position.
(Correct water level is about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube or
enough to give a good flush.) If the ball fails to rise, the intake valve will
remain open and water will continue to flow. Brass float balls can
sometimes be drained and the leak soldered. Other types must be replaced.
When working on the float ball, be careful to keep the rod aliened so that
the ball will float freely and close the valve properly.

Bowl Removal
An obstruction in the water closet trap or leakage around the bottom of
the water-closet bowl may require removal of the bowl. Follow this
procedure:

Shut off the water.

Empty the tank and bowl by siphoning or sponging out the water.
Disconnect the water pipes to the tank (see fig. 7).
Disconnect the tank from the bowl if the water closet is a two-piece
unit. Set the tank where it cannot be damaged. Handle tank and bowl
carefully; they are made of vitreous china or porcelain and are easily
chipped or broken.
Remove the seat and cover from the bowl.
Carefully pry loose the bolt covers and remove the bolts holding the
bowl to the floor flange (fig. 8). Jar the bowl enough to break the seal
at the bottom. Set the bowl upside down on something that will not
chip or break it.
Remove the obstruction from the discharge opening.
Place a new wax seal around the bowl horn and press it into place. A
wax seal (or gasket) may be obtained from hardware or plumbing-
supply stores.
Set the bowl in place and press it down firmly. Install the bolts that
hold it to the floor flange. Draw the bolts up snugly, but not too tight
because the bowl may break. The bowl must be level. Keep a
carpenter's level on it while drawing up the bolts. If the house has
settled, leaving the floor sloping, it may be necessary to use shims to
make the bowl set level. Replace the bolt covers.
Install the tank and connect the water pipes to it. It is advisable to
replace all gaskets, after first cleaning the surfaces thoroughly.
Test for leaks by flushing a few times.
Install the seat and cover.
 Figure 8.—Connection of water closet to floor
and soil pipe.

Tank "Sweating"
When cold water enters a water closet tank, it may chill the tank enough
to cause "sweating" (condensation of atmospheric moisture on the outer
surface of the tank). This can be prevented by insulating the tank to keep
the temperature of the outer surface above the dew point temperature of
surrounding air. Insulating jackets or liners that fit inside water-closet tanks
and serve to keep the outer surface warm are available from plumbing-
supply dealers.
 CLEARING CLOGGED DRAINS
Drains may become clogged by objects dropped into them or by
accumulations of grease, dirt, or other matter.

Fixture and Floor Drains

If the obstruction is in a fixture trap, usually the trap can be removed
and cleared. If the obstruction is elsewhere in the pipe other means must be
used.
Cleanout augers—long, flexible, steel cables commonly called
"snakes"—may be run down drainpipes to break up obstructions or to hook
onto and pull out objects. Augers are made in various lengths and diameters
and are available at hardware and plumbing-supply stores. (In some cases,
you may have to call a plumber, who will probably have a power-driven
auger.)
Small obstructions can sometimes be forced down or drawn up by use
of an ordinary rubber force cup (plunger or "plumber's friend").
Grease and soap clinging to a pipe can sometimes be removed by
flushing with hot water. Lye or lye mixed with a small amount of aluminum
shavings may also be used. When water is added to the mixture, the violent
gas-forming reaction and production of heat that takes place loosens the
grease and soap so that they can be flushed away. Use cold water only.
Chemical cleaners should not be used in pipes that are completely stopped
up, because they must be brought into direct contact with the stoppage to be
effective. Handle the material with extreme care and follow directions on
the container. If lye spills on the hands or clothing, wash with cold water
immediately. If any gets into the eyes, flush with cold water and call a
doctor.
Sand, dirt, or clothing lint sometimes clogs floor drains. Remove the
strainer and ladle out as much of the sediment as possible. You may have to
carefully chip away the concrete around the strainer to free it. Flush the
drain with clean water.
 When drains have become partially clogged due to lack of water to
transport all solids through them, large buckets or other containers should
be used to flush them. Water should be poured fast enough to nearly fill the
drain.
Occasional flushing of floor drains may prevent clogging.
CAUTION: Augers, rubber force cups, and other tools used in
direct contact with sewage are subject to contamination. Do not later
use them for work on your potable water supply system unless they
have been properly sterilized.

Outside Drains
Roots growing through cracks or defective joints sometimes clog
outside drains or sewers. You can clear the stoppage temporarily by using a
root-cutting tool. However, to prevent future trouble, you should re-lay the
defective portion of the line, using sound pipe and making sure that all
joints are watertight.[2]
[2] For information on laying sewers, see Agriculture Information Bulletin
274, "Farmstead Sewage and Refuse Disposal." For a free copy, send a post card
to the Office of Information, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C.
20250. Include your ZIP Code in your return address.

If possible, sewer lines should be laid out of the reach of roots. But if
this is impossible or impracticable, consider using impregnated fiber pipe
which tends to repel roots.

TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS

Basic tools that you should have on hand to make simple plumbing
repairs include:
Wrenches, including pipe wrenches, in a range of sizes to fit the pipe, fittings, fixtures,
equipment, and appliances in the system.
Screwdrivers in a range of sizes to fit the faucets, valves, and other parts of the system.
 Ball peen hammer or a 12- or 16-ounce clawhammer.
Rubber force cup (plunger or "plumber's friend").
Cold chisel and center punch.
Cleanout auger ("snake").
Friction tape.
Adjustable pliers.

Additional tools required for more extensive plumbing repairs include:

Pipe vise.
Set of pipe threading dies and stocks.
Hacksaw and blades (blades should have 32 teeth per inch).
Pipe cutter, roller type.
Tapered reamer or half-round file.
Carpenter's brace.
Set of wood bits.
Gasoline blowtorch.
Lead pot and ladle.
Calking tools.
Copper tube cutter with reamer (if you have copper tubing).

Always use the proper size wrench or screwdriver. Do not use pipe
wrenches on nuts with flat surfaces; use an adjustable or open-end wrench.
Do not use pipe wrenches on polished-surface tubings or fittings, such as
found on plumbing fixtures; use a strap wrench. Tight nuts or fittings can
sometimes be loosened by tapping lightly with a hammer or mallet.
It should not be necessary to stock a large number of spare parts. Past
plumbing troubles may give some indication as to the kind of parts most
likely to be needed. Spare parts should include:
Faucet washers and packing.
One or two lengths of the most common type and size of piping in the plumbing system.
Several unions and gaskets or unions with ground surfaces.
Several couplings and elbows.
 A few feet of pipe strap.
An extra hose connection.

EMERGENCIES
Grouped below are emergencies that may occur and the action to take.
The name, address, and phone number of a plumber who offers 24-hour
service should be posted in a conspicuous place.
Burst pipe or tank.—Immediately cut off the flow of water by closing
the shutoff valve nearest to the break. Then arrange for repair.
Water closet overflow.—Do not use water closet until back in working
order. Check for and remove stoppage in closet bowl outlet, drain line from
closet to sewer, or sewer or septic tank. If stoppage is due to root entry into
pipe, repair of pipe at that point is recommended.
Rumbling noise in hot water tank.—This is likely a sign of overheating
which could lead to the development of explosive pressure (Another
indication of overheating is hot water backing up in the cold-water supply
pipe.) Cut off the burner immediately. Be sure that the pressure-relief valve
is operative. Then check (with a thermometer) the temperature of the water
at the nearest outlet. If above that for which the gage is set, check the
thermostat that controls burner cutoff. If you cannot correct the trouble, call
a plumber.
Cold house.—If the heating system fails (or if you close the house and
turn off the heat) when there is a chance of subfreezing weather, completely
drain the plumbing system. A drain valve is usually provided at the low
point of the water supply piping for this purpose. A pump, storage tank,
hot-water tank, water closet tank, water-treatment apparatus, and other
water-system appliances or accessories should also be drained. Put
antifreeze in all fixture and drain traps.
Hot-water and steam heating systems should also be drained when the
house temperature may drop below freezing.
 U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1972 O-478-903

Transcriber Note
Produced from material made availablel from the Internet
Archive and is placed in the Public Domain.

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Simple Plumbing for the Home, by Anonymous

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