The Wedding Dress Book by Heili Bridal

The Wedding dress Book 1

the wedding dress
book - finding the
perfect look
Written and illustrated by
Iida Silvennoinen
Published by Heili Bridal

First published by Heili Bridal 2018
Heili Bridal
Finland
www.heilibridal.com
©heilibridal
©Illustrations: IIda Silvennoinen
All rights reserved. No part of this publications

may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means without written permission of
the publishers.
Design: Heili Bridal

Editor: Janina Silvennoinen
Illustrations by Iida Silvennoinen
Heili Bridal
Bespoke wedding dresses, gowns
and artesan headpieces
from Finland
Contents
About 9
Planning and Dreaming 11

Imagine your dream dress 11
Dress silhouettes 13
What is your wedding dress made of? 23
Dress Shopping 29
You have so many options 29
How the dress is made 30
The magic starts with the underwear 33
New shoes, new you 35
Shopping is easy with a good mood 37
You will get help and information 38
How tight is tight enough? 39
Budget 43
Having a budget assures the dress bliss 43
How to stay in budget 44
Hidden costs 45
Getting a dress with a mini budget 46

Before The Wedding 51
Storing: Give the dress enough space to hang 51
Keep your dress clean 53
Wrinkles can be treated at home 54
Keeping the armpit stains away 57
O n yo u r w e d d i n g day 5 9
Get help for dressing 59
Last minute fixes 61
Keep calm no matter what 62
Dirt and stains are not end of the world 62
Move like a queen 66
A f t e r wa r d s 69
Do at least this 69
The ruin of a dress 69
Saving the memories by keeping the dress 70
Get up to 50% off by reselling your dress 71
Make the dress into something new 73
Closing words 77

About
Congratulations, you are getting married!
I imagine that you are soon going to shop for your wedding dress. Maybe
you have started already. Anyway, you have made a great choice to read
this book.
The wedding dress is often a very important and a long dreamed gar-
ment. It can be the first full length gown you shop and usually it is also
quite expensive. The dress also has a special meaning as it is what you
wear when you start a new chapter in your life. Oh dear, it’s also such a
pretty garment! When I was a little girl a used to dream about big wed-
ding dresses and to be honest, I’ve never stopped. Do you know the feel-
ing?
So why do you absolutely need to read this book? I have gathered all my
knowledge about wedding dresses starting from shopping and ending to
the married life. I go through different dress styles, materials and fabrics,
how to store and care for your beautiful dress before the wedding, and
also what to do after the big day is over. In this book I tell you how to save
time, money and effort with you dream wedding dress and also give you
plenty of insider tips on the way.
So if you are a bride who is a little bit confused about how to choose the
right dress and have just discovered that there is a whole new language
when it comes to dress shopping then I and this book are here for you! I
have fifteen years experience with bespoke clothing - new and vintage
- and I’m going to hold your hand through the dress shopping and make
sure that you look absolutely flawless at your wedding.
I’m so exited! Are you ready to start?
With love, Iida.

Planning and Dreaming
What to go over before you start your dress shopping
and basic wedding gown glossary.
Imagine your dream dress

First thing to do is to think what your dream wed-
ding dress might look like. Reach into your childhood
and remember what was your childhood dream and
which things played big part in your wedding dreams.
It might give you some glues or offer a chance for re-
flection about your taste now.
You might want to take few days or weeks to go

through magazines or Pinterest and see what kind of
dresses make you stop for a moment. Make sure that
it is really the dresses that you are looking at, not the
models’ hair or face or the kind of light used in the
photo. You can try to cover the heads of the models
to make sure or find several similar type of dresses in
different photographs and compare them.
Put it on paper
Take notes about the details of the dresses: what
material they are made of, what is the shape and sil-
houette that you are drawn to and what is the overall
feeling. Are the dresses structured and formal or soft
and flowing? Perhaps they remind you of a certain
era or are decorated in some special way. You can
write your thoughts on paper, print out your favorites
and overall try to figure out why you like things you
do and how they make you feel.

It is equally important to think what you don’t like
and why it is so. Pick some photos of the dresses you
would never wear and write down what is wrong with
them. Sometimes the ’yuck’ things can surprise you.
This way you will have pretty good guidelines pre-
pared for your shopping day.
I don’t know what looks good on me!

If you are totally clueless what you like and want,
make a trip to the nearest shopping mall and try on
some different prom dresses or evening gowns to
see what they look like on you. That’s the surest way
to get information how the different dress styles
behave and look on your body.
Don’t think so much about the color or print but keep

your eyes open for the shape of the dresses. You can
also think what kind of clothes you like in general. Do
you usually prefer open or closed necklines? Do you
like to wear skirts or trousers high on your waist or
do you prefer them a bit lower? These details give a
general idea about what you should look for.
Think what kind of clothes you feel sexy or confident

in. Wedding dress is supposed to bring forward your
favorite aspects of yourself.
This way you don’t feel so stressed in your dress ap-

pointment and have better understanding of what
you want. Even if you love shopping and trying on
clothes you don’t want to stand hours and hours in
front of a mirror trying on every dress under the sun.
You will get tired and cranky. So do your ’homework’
and dream!

Dress silhouettes
Having names for styles and details makes the
discussing about dresses easier and gives you
better understanding about language sales assist-
ants and designers use.
We hope this part of the book also shows you the

head-spinning variety of dresses available. The com-
binations of dress silhouettes, necklines and materi-
als are infinite! Those three elements form only the
very base idea of the dress and on top of them the
designers add trimmings like beadings, embroidery
and other details.
A-line
A dress that flares smoothly from the hips. It’s clas-

sic and popular silhouette that works beautifully for
most people. In a modified A-line the hem might
flare bit more giving a dress more ball gown -type
look. Sometimes the modified A-line is referred as
Princess silhouette (see. Princess line).
Ball gown
A dress silhouette with full, roundish hem. This is a

very romantic silhouette with fairytale feel. As the
name suggest it’s a good fit for formal weddings.
Sheath
A slim silhouette with a narrow and straight hem. The

amount of embellishments and trims give lots of var-
iation to otherwise simple form. Sometimes referred
also as Column.

A-line Ballgown Sheath
Mermaid Trumpet Empire

Mermaid / Trumpet
Mermaid and Trumpet silhouettes are sometimes re-

ferred as the same thing, but in their purest forms
the Trumpet’s hem flares out before knees and Mer-
maid’s somewhere lower. Otherwise they are very
close fitting which can make moving in the dress a
challenge. They are glamorous, Hollywood style sil-
houettes that give curvy and sensual look.
Empire
The empire line dress has raised waist seam right

beneath breasts. The silhouette has gotten it’s name
from regency/empire era (beginning of 19th century)
fashion. Think Jane Austen movie heroines.
Princess line
Not a dress silhouette but refers to the dress type

that doesn’t have waist seam but vertical seams that
give it it’s shape. Most typically seen in A-line, Sheath
and Mermaid gowns.
Some brands and boutiques might refer the modified

A-line as a ’Princess silhouette’ but in fashion industry
Princess line refers above all to the vertical seams in
a dress. For example Meghan Markle’s wedding gown
was a princess line dress.

Sweetheart Semi-sweetheart Straight
Illusion Off-shoulder Jewel
Scoop V-neck Bateau
Square Halter Halter strap
High Neck Asymmetric/One Shoulder Queen Anne
Cowl Grecian Spaghetti Strap

Necklines
The pictures show the neckline silhouettes in a simple
way. All these necklines have slight variations in size
and shape. When searching for your dress you may
also find combinations of two different necklines like
off-shoulder illusion etc.
Train Lengths
In modern time train is very specifically a wedding
dress and evening gown design element. The only
other places you can see trains are in some aca-
demic dresses or court uniforms. Trains give formal-
ity and fluidity into big dresses and often make the
wearer seem longer as they trail behind. The lengths
given here are estimates and may vary by design
and brands.
Sweep/Brush
The shortest train type that only just sweeps the floor.
Court
Bit longer train than a Sweep train, about 30cm long

(1 foot).
Chapel
Mid length train, about 100cm long (3 feet). Suits well

when the ceremony is formal and the aisle is long
enough to show off the length of the train.
Cathedral
More formal and longer than Chapel train, about 180-

200cm long (6 feet).

Monarch
Cathedral
Chapel
Sweep Court

Monarch
Longest possible train, over 300cm long (10 feet). Re-

ally formal and needs a big space and bridesmaids
to help you out. Typically seen in royal weddings
hence the name. The Princess Diana’s wedding dress
had whooping 762cm long train (25 feet)!
Watteau train
Refers to a train that is attached to the shoulders of

the dress. Often detachable and might act almost as
an alternative veil.
Panel train
A train that attaches to the waist and often detacha-

ble. Typically used with the longest trains so the bride
can move and dance more easily during reception
as the train can be taken off.
Veil Lengths
It’s good to know that there might be some differenc-
es in veil lengths and names when it comes to differ-
ent brands. The veil lengths are always dependable
on the brand or boutique. Some carry all the lengths,
some only part of them and so the lengths may have
been fixed to accommodate the missing lengths.
The veils can also be cut in a few different ways which

alters their look even if the length would be the same.
The best way to find a good fit to yourself is of course
try them on and ask for their measurements if you
end up ordering a veil from internet.
Remember that your own height and the way you’ll

attach the veil has an effect on the look of the veil.

For shorter person who attaches the veil underneath
the low hair bun the Waltz veil which ends before
floor might actually be a floor length veil.
Birdcage
The short net that partly or wholly drops on your face.

Birdcage veil is often attached to a fascinator, clips,
hat etc. It’s usually stiffer and holds it’s shape better
compared to other veils.
Blusher
The part of the veil that drops on the face.
Fly away
The shortest traditional veil length stopping before

shoulders. Sometimes the same thing as the shoul-
der length. Over 40cm long (16 inches).
Shoulder
The veil that ends at shoulders. Sometimes referred

also as the Fly away. Around or over 50cm long (19
inches).
Waist/Elbow
The veil that ends at waist. Can be also referred as

the Elbow veil. Around or over 60cm long (25 inches).
Fingertip/Hip
The veil that ends at hip. Most often referred as the

Fingertip veil. Very typical veil length in more informal
weddings and dresses without train. Around or over
80cm long (32 inches).

Ballet
The veil that ends at knee or mid calf. Sometimes re-

ferred also as the Waltz veil even thought the Waltz is
often bit longer. Around or over 120cm long(48 inch-
es).
Waltz
Shorter than a floor length veil. The length can vary a

bit depending of a brand and what other lengths are
available from the same brand. Sometimes the Waltz
and Ballet are referred as the same but the Waltz
can also be longer than Ballet, somewhere around
mid calf and ankle. Around or over 150cm long (59
inches).
Sweep/Floor
The veil that touches the floor. Similar to the shortest

train length. Around or over 180cm long (70 inches).
Chapel
Longer than the Sweep veil but shorter than the Ca-
thedral veil. Around or over 250cm long (98 inches).
Cathedral
Longer than the Chapel veil, often around 300cm

long (118 inches).
Royal (Cathedral)
The longest veil length. Around or over 350cm long

(138 inches). Typically the length can vary very much
depending where you get the veil. Sometimes also
referred as Monarch.

Flyaway
Shoulder
Waist
Fingertip
Ballet
Waltz
Sweep
Chapel
Cathedral
Royal

What is your wedding dress made
of?
The materials and fabrics used in wedding dresses
are most likely a mix of polyester, nylon and silk. For
many brides the materials are not very important,
but rather how the dress looks and feels. I still wanted
to include some basic information about materials
and fabric types to make it easier for brides to un-
derstand what options they have when it comes to
dress fabrics.
Also selfishly I want to educate people so that there’ll

be less talk about satin and silk in one sentence as if
they are comparable. Silk is material from which fab-
rics are made of and satin is a a weave which can
be produced with any yarn: there’s for example silk
satin, cotton satin and polyester satin.
In first part we go over fibers that are most often used

in wedding fashion and in the second part I tell about
the different fabric types. Some of them might even
be familiar for you. All clothes should have a tag in
them which tells you the fibers used in it if you want
to know more about the fibers you wear.
Fiber materials
The first group is natural fibers that are produced
from animals or plants. They are the first materials
humans have used in their clothes and are often
also more expensive because of their organic origin.
The bright white is harder to find from natural fibers,
but on the other hand they feel good on the skin be-
cause of their breathing properties.

Natural fibers:
Silk
The classic wedding fabric. Silk can look very see

through or be even coarse and stiff depending of the
weave and yarn type. Silk has a specific shine and
scent and it’s more expensive compared to other
fabrics. Silk is available in most tones, apart from the
most bright blueish white.
Wool
Wool is not very typical fabric in modern wedding

dresses apart from the finest wool crêpes. Wool can
be surprisingly shiny and transparent. It comes in soft
white and ivory tones.
Cotton
Cotton is used mainly inside the corsets to offer sup-

port or some linings. It’s not typically the main dress
fabric in wedding or evening gowns. Sometimes an-
tique dresses might be made of sheer and crispy
cotton organdy.
The second group is man-made synthetic fibers that

are mostly produced from petroleum or cellulose.
These fibers are often easier to clean and don’t wrin-
kle that much. They can be found in all colors includ-
ing bright blueish white.

The negative thing is that they might feel cold and
make you feel sweaty as they don’t absorb moisture.
Synthetic and man-made fibers:
Viscose
Viscose is comfortable material with soft feel and

good draping qualities. As it’s derived from cellulose
it actually absorbs moisture very well which makes
it feel great on skin. Often mixed with other yarns
or used by itself to imitate silk. Viscose comes in all
white tones.
Polyester
Polyester is easy to care material which can be made

with any tone from brilliant white to deep colors. As
it’s washable and not easily wrinkled it’s the basic
material for many dress fabrics at least in part. Pol-
yester can be found in almost all more affordable
wedding gowns.
Polyamide
Polyamide is in many ways similar to polyester. Only

big difference for you to know is that polyamide can
be dyed even at home unlike polyester.
Nylon
Nylon is strong, synthetic polymer fabric with silky

feel. Often used in nets and sheer fabrics or mixed
with other yarns to give strength.

Fabric types
This part lists the names and styles of the most com-
mon fabrics used in the wedding dresses. To get more
information about the fabrics used in the dresses
head to the brand pages or make use of your local
bridal boutique or fabric store.
Organza
Organza is transparent fabric which is stiffer than

Chiffon and holds it’s shape well. It may wrinkle. Fin-
est organza is made of silk, others can be be made
of polyester or nylon.
Chiffon
Chiffon is transparent fabric which drapes beauti-

fully. It’s matte and has gently coarse texture. It goes
into small space and doesn’t wrinkle very much
which makes it great for destination weddings. Chif-
fon frays and snatches easily. Again the finest sort is
made from silk and more affordable ones from poly-
ester or viscose or mix of all the previous.
Tulle
Tulle is see through net that can be stiff or soft de-

pending of the material it’s made of. It’s light weight
fabric, often made of polyester, nylon, silk or mix of
them. Synthetic tulle gets easily frizzy in dry and cold
air and may gather hairs and dust because of that.
Typically used in veils, overlays and petticoats.
Lace
Lace is typically see through net like fabric embroi-

dered with different floral or geometrical motifs. The
weight and feel of lace changes according the type.

The finest lace can easily cost several hundred eu-
ros/dollars per meter. It’s used typically in overlays,
trims and veils.
Satin
Satin is a specific weave of fabric in which one side

is shiny and glossy and one side matte. For wedding
gowns satin can be made of silk or polyester for ex-
ample. Depending of the yarn and material satin can
be anything from stiff to draping and soft. Satin is a
very typical wedding dress fabric. It was used for ex-
ample in Catherine Middleton’s wedding dress.
Velvet
This fabric is tufted on it’s right side with dense pile

which gives it soft feel. It’s quite heavy and reflects
light differently depending which way the fabric is
running. For wedding gowns the velvet is often made
of silk or viscose or mix of both.
Crêpe
Crêpe is matte fabric made with gently curling yarn.

It typically drapes well and works beautifully in bias
cut. It can be made in several different weights and
transparencies. Finest crêpes are made of silk or
wool, more affordable are often made with polyester
or viscose in them.
Taffeta
Taffeta is smooth, quite stiff and crispy fabric that

holds it’s shape extremely well. It has nice shine and
is relatively light in it’s weight. It shows wrinkles easily.
Princess Diana’s wedding dress was made of ivory
silk taffeta.

Dress Shopping
Where and how to shop for a wedding dress
and what to look for.
You have so many options

TIP! Don’t feel like you You are getting married and you will need to wear
have to take the typical something for the big day. Through history the wed-
road. Colored dresses are
ding dress has often been the bride’s best attire and
popular and right now the
it has been reused before and after the wedding.
trendy options are pastel
tones like blush or pale Queen Victoria’s choice to wear white lace for her
blue. Even black dresses wedding in the 19th century made a big impact on
have been coming back! fashion and white wedding dresses became more
common. Nowadays the white wedding dress is a
well known symbol for weddings, brides and mar-
riage.
There are several different ways to buy a

wedding dress:
• Designer boutique
• Bridal boutique carrying several different designers
• Sample sale
• Internet
• Second hand shop
• Seamtress or a designer
• Mall or a shopping centre

How the dress is made
There are few different terms to describe dresses:
ready to wear, off-the-rack, made to measure, and
bespoke. These are all related to the way the dress is
made and if it is one of a kind or bulk manufactured.
There is no right or wrong kind of a dress but it is

good to know these terms when you start to look for
your gown. This way you will understand what you
are paying for and what is typically included.
Ready to wear €
The dress you can buy just as you see it in the shop.
Many designers carry ready to wear collections which
are designed to suit the bigger audience. These are
the cost effective option. These dresses come in a
wide range of quality and prize.
Off-the-rack €
Same as ready to wear. Both are the quickest op-
tions and often cheapest. Is it easy for you to shop
for clothes when it comes to size? If you answer yes
then there is a good possibility that you are going to
find a well fitting wedding dress off-the-rack and you
can take it home right away.
Off-the-rack dresses can usually be altered in terms

of waist size and hem length but you can’t really alter
the overall design without taking it to the seamstress.
As off-the-rack and made to measure dresses are
designed to fit the taste of most people the designs
are often trendy, safe or traditional.

Made to measure €€
You pick something from a catalogue or try on dif-
ferent samples that you choose a dress from. Then
you order it and get a dress that is made to fit your
measurements. Sometimes you can customize the
gown somehow: change the color or the fabric, or
add some details or leave some out.
Most of the new dresses are bought like this and the
budget can be anything from a few hundreds to sev-
eral thousands depending the quality. If you watch
wedding themed tv-series you have most likely seen
some form of made to measure dress shopping.
There is often more design variations available to
choose from than off-the-rack.
Bespoke €€€
Something that is designed and made just for you
from the start to finish. This is closest to the Fairy God-
mother’s magic dress you can get. Bespoke includes
designing, pattern making, fitting and finishing and
the bespoke dress fits you like a glove. You can add
your own creative touch or give the designer free
hands to visualize a wedding dress in your style.
You will be the only one in the world wearing this dress
and nobody will get exactly the same dress that you
have. You will have all the possibilities when deciding
on the silhouette, fabrics and details.
Bespoke dress is a good option if you have a really

specific design in mind, your body has really unique
shape, or you use aids for moving for example.

Bespoke budget is fluid and you also pay
for the service
The budget for bespoke can vary depending on fab-
rics and the amount of details. Often they are more
expensive than the cheapest made to measures. You
can always negotiate with your designer or seam-
stress and try to find a good middle ground. It is good
to remember that with made to measure dresses
there is no costs of alterations which can easily add
even third to the prize of an off-the-rack wedding
dresses.
The design and quality depends on the maker so

you should pick a one you trust and who has a good
reputation. The whole process takes several months
but the earlier you order the more time the designer
has to find the perfect fabrics and fix the last details.
Ideally you should make the first inquire at least six
months before your wedding date. One year before
is even better. If you consult a designer you can usu-
ally be sure that you will receive proper accessories.
Designers can also offer you help to find the sources
for any other dress related things.
The magic starts with the under-

wear
The underwear is the most important part of your
wedding day attire. It is important to figure out how
open your dress might be: sleeves or no sleeves, do
you want a backless dress, do you fancy a long or
short hem etc. This way you know what kind of under-
wear you need.

Your underwear can reshape your body, for example
how high or low your breasts are. This detail is impor-
tant when the wedding dress is fitted for your per-
sonal measurements. That is why you should have a
good bra or corset on while shopping for your dress.
Many dresses might have some kind of internal struc-

ture like bra cups or stiffened middle, but in cheaper
dresses they are not enough to hold your body well.
It is always better to have the good underwear than
try to use the dress itself to lift your bust or slim your
waist.
If your thighs chafe easily and you’re not planning to

use pantyhose you could get a pair of longer pan-
ties or bicycling shorts to smooth things up. Silky and
smooth underwear also makes the dress slip on eas-
ily. Underwear also protects the dress bit from sweat.
Save the sexy for the night

TIP! If you’re on the budg- Be prepared to spend enough money for your under-
et the cheapest clothing wear as the good ones don’t come cheap. Spend-
brands (H&M, Topshop, ing the whole wedding day in flimsy lace might get
Lindex etc.) carry at least
uncomfortable very quickly. It might be better to buy
one white lace lingerie set
during the spring season. a good nude colored corset or bra to use under the
wedding dress and shop for lacy wedding night lin-
gerie separately. This way you don’t have to sacrifice
the look for practicality.
You can always change into the sexy lingerie before

the wedding night and freshen up while doing so.
You might be surprised how sticky you can feel after
wearing a dress for 8 hours. Also if the going gets ex-
iting during the night, you don’t have to feel bad for
ruined costly lingerie. You can reuse the pricier nude
colored ones in the future.

New shoes, new you
If you want to use a pair of heels on your wedding
day, shop for them early. The heels change the shape
of your back and the way you carry yourself so the
dresses should be tried on with the heels. It is always
easier to fix the hem of the dress than try to find the
heels in right height for your wedding dress.
For many people the shoes are what they can wear
again after the wedding. It is always nice to have re-
ally fancy ones, but if you are wearing a long dress
the shoes won’t be seen much. You are probably
moving quite a lot during the day so pick something
you feel comfortable in. It is always good to use the
shoes few times before the wedding day so they get
shaped to your feet and you avoid the painful blis-
ters. This way you also notice the spots that may give
you pain and can get suitable gel cushions.
Shoes are a nice way to add a pop of color into your

attire, so don’t be afraid to try something else than
white. I picked shoes with silver glitter for myself when
I got married. They added a nice touch of bling into
my look and I’ve been using them several times since
then.
If you are not used to high heels there is really no need

to make yourself wear ones. There is huge amount of
beautiful flats available and it is also trendy to opt for
sneakers like Converse. One of my customers wore
a really beautiful pair of flat sandals in her garden
wedding! It is totally up to you what kind of shoes you
are comfortable with. If you feel like you want to look
sexy for your spouse, do the same as with the lingerie
and get a pair of affordable sky highs for your wed-
ding night to tease your spouse with.

Shopping is easy with a good mood
Positivity is a big deal while trying on dresses. Eve-
rything looks better when you are in a good mood!
Make sure you have slept well and remember to eat
before you go. Fix up your hair a bit and put on some
light make-up if you normally use it. Have a few min-
utes of joy that you are heading to find your dream
wedding dress!
Make sure you have enough time and bring your un-
derwear and shoes with you. It can be good to ask
a friend or a family member to come with you, but
don’t feel bad if you feel like shopping for the dress
alone. In the end it is not that much different than
shopping for other clothes.
TIP! Think carefully For some people the idea of bringing a big group of
whose opinion means most friends, bridesmaids and family is nice, but hearing
to you.
several thoughts about something that is ultimately
your own decision can be overwhelming and stop
the ’yes, this is it’ moment from coming.
Go to your appointment believing you will find that

dream dress. That purpose and certainty is vital as
you will be more open and receptive. Enjoy the occa-
sion, take your time and have fun while trying on all
those beautiful gowns. Try not to worry too much as
it will sour the experience. If you are feeling worried
think where those feelings are coming from. If you
feel comfortable talk about your feelings aloud. Keep
your attitude positive and trust that there will be the
dress for you.

You will get help and information
In a store or a boutique the staff will help you dress
up and then you can walk to a mirror to see yourself.
Try to relax your body so you will better see the fit of
the dress. You should bend a bit and sit down with a
dress to figure out how comfortable it is while eating
and partying. Try to move around or even dance a
few steps. Enjoy your time trying on dresses!
TIP! Make sure there is no Sometimes the dress you try on is way too small
beading under the armpits or big and it might be tightened with clamps. Don’t
as they can scratch and hesitate to ask about the sizing, fit and what altera-
chafe the skin or fabric on tions should be made. A good salesperson should be
the sleeve.
able to answer all your questions. You can always ask
what things can be changed and if there is another
dress with similar pros but without the cons.
In ready to wear dresses you can’t alter the silhou-

ette very much without taking it to a seamstress for
some serious work. You can add petticoats but that’s
about it. If the dress clings to your legs in a way that
makes you uncomfortable, you can add a hoop un-
derskirt in most cases.
The little details, like shoulder straps or a belt or length

of the hem are easier to fix. With made to measure
dresses there might be a possibility to pick the tone of
the fabric (from colder to warmer: pure white, pearl,
silk, ivory, champagne etc. there is plenty of different
tones and names for them). If your dress has a train
but you don’t want it, it is possible to have it altered.
The prizing may change depending the choices.

How tight is tight enough?
When it comes to how tight your dress should feel,
the snug hug is best way to describe it. It shouldn’t
squeeze you too much and you should be able to
breath, sit down and eat in a relative comfort.
The phenomenon called expansion because of

warmth is true to dresses also. As the gown gets
warmer on you (while dancing for example) the fab-
ric will get a bit looser. You might need to tighten
your wedding dress once you have spent some time
wearing your gown.
This is why strapless dresses should rely on a waist

stay or a corset as those can be tightened. I wouldn’t
advice to get a strapless dress with a zipper back. If
you are not a fan of corset backs, inner hook and eye
closures could be your thing with the pretty buttons
on top.
Hooks are the solution we use often in our bespoke

gowns instead of zippers, as it holds better against
the pressure and is easier to fix if something breaks.
You can even ask for double row of eyes to be made
inside like in a bra so you can tighten the dress little
bit during the day if needed.
The dress shouldn’t push your breasts or underarms

out, it means that the bodice is too small for you. If
the dress has big horisontal wrinkles around your
waist or hips like it is trying to ‘raise up’ it’s too tight
there and you should try one size bigger.

Waist stay
One thing you should get done for even with cheaper
gowns is a ribbon on the waist that is made to fit your
exact waist measurement. Sometimes it is referred
as a waist stay. This sturdy ribbon inside the dress is
what really holds your dress in the right place so it
doesn’t slip down.
If you ever get to see insides of a vintage haute cou-

ture dress, I can promise that you will see the waist
line ribbon in almost every dress. It is a very practical
little detail that is not often seen in a ready made
gowns but which makes a huge difference how it
stays on.
Sometimes there is also an elastic under bust ribbon

which is a bit similar to bra. It is a nice addition to
further secure the dress but it is not as critical as the
waist closure. The under bust stay is more typical in
ready made gowns.
We use the waist stay in most of our gowns and in all

of our strapless gowns. It is particularly important if
the dress has no corset back. If there is no waist rib-
bon in your dress, it is quite easy to add later if you
know how to sew.
You can also take your gown to a seamstress. Just

remember to ask the waist stay to be done snugly
and with the exact waist measurement so it really
stays on your waist line.
The waist stay minimizes the yanking up and makes

sure the dress stays on without having to tighten it
around your bust which often creates the ‘underarm
fat’ effect.

Budget
Know how much money you have to spend and think
where you want to spend it.
Having a budget assures the dress

bliss
Money talk is always bit exhausting but it is so impor-
tant! There’s no iron clad way to budget your wed-
ding day attire, but I have seen budget breakdowns
where wedding dress and accessories are 5% of your
whole wedding budget. You can use that as a begin-
ning and see what it would mean in your case.
Remember that the dress budget includes at least

the dress, alterations and accessories. Then there’s
all the small things like blister sticks and stain wipes.
You can decide if you include also hair, make-up and
other beauty products and services into your dress
budget or handle them as their own expenditure.
Search the dress within you budget because nothing

is sadder than trying on something that is way too
expensive and then falling in love with it. After this
every dress you try on gets compared to that one
too expensive dress and you won’t get your ’ooh’ mo-
ment.
It is okay if you don’t have thousands or tens of thou-

sands to use for a dress you most likely use once.
Most people don’t want to use all their hard earned
money into one outfit. Try to figure out how much you
are really able to use and don’t be too optimistic, try
to keep it real.

How to stay in budget
The most expensive dresses are lace gowns, fully
embroidered ones or those with big hem and lots of
structure. Also the brand name adds to the cost.
This way, logically, the cheaper dresses are simple

ones with soft silhouette and less layers that drape
around you rather than reshape your body. The less
inner structures there are the less the dress usually
costs.
Polyester is cheap fabric that can be produced to im-

TIP! If the dress is made
itate almost any from of silk: from the lightest chiffon
with cheaper fabrics like
polyester or blended ma- to the sturdiest taffeta. Most of the cheaper dresses
terials rather than pure (under thousand euros/dollars) are usually made of
silk, the prize goes down. man-made fabrics like polyester satin or nylon tulle.
Often these budget friendly dresses are made with a

simple dress pattern, like strapless ball gown. We call
this a base dress, because it is a good base for many
different designs.
These base dresses can be decorated with plenty

of options that are easy to change with the trends.
All this keeps the cost down. The trims are usually
quickly stitched on the top layer of the dress in big-
ger patches and are also relatively easy to take off or
change. That is always a plus if you want to take the
dress to a seamstress for some refashioning.
Can you get a lace dress under 1000€?

Many of us love lace dresses because they are beau-
tiful, timeless and elegant. It is no wonder that they
have been loved through the decades. If your heart
is set on the lace dress but your budget is small, you

should think about making some compromises. Don’t
worry, you can definitely get lace on a budget!
TIP! You can get lace jack- Use lace on just some parts. It is a good way to get the
ets or boleros to wear on prize down. Great places to show off the lace beau-
top of your dress. There tifully is on the sleeves, back or neckline. It makes a
are great option if you
big impact and will show on most photographs way
want to cover your shoul-
ders in a church. You can
better than a lace trimmed hem.
use them again after the
wedding. You can also downsize the dress itself and get a
Sheath dress with lace overlay or even a small cock-
tail dress instead of big lacy ball gown. They require
less fabric which keeps the prize down compared to
the big lace gowns.
Alternatively you can get a beautiful big, lace veil to

compliment your simple dress. A veil can really make
you feel like a bride! They are cheaper compared
to dresses because they don’t need many different
materials and they lack the measuring and fitting
that dresses deed. They also look really romantic and
dramatic. Veils make wonderful keepsakes and can
be passed from generation to generation.
Hidden costs
Unfortunately not all the costs are always presented
upfront. If you need alterations, remember to ask how
much they are and if you have to get them made in
a specific place. Sometimes it is cheaper to find your
own seamstress than get things done in the same
place you bought the dress from so compare the
prices. The alterations can easily add a third or more
to the cost of the dress.
You might also need an extra petticoat that is not

included in the dress price. Keep tabs on how much

TIP! Vintage furs are quite your accessories are going to cost and what you
easy to come by in second have spend already. If it is winter time, what are you
hand shops. I got mine for
going to wear if it is cold or rainy?
10 € few years back. We
would never buy new furs.
Sometimes you need to fix something just before
the wedding even if the dress was good when you
bought it. You might need to take it to the dry cleaner
for ironing or steaming. There can also be last minute
expenses so it is good to save a small part of your
budget for them.
Getting a dress with a mini budget

If you are searching for really budget friendly ways to
get your wedding dress and the bridal boutiques just
don’t offer you the right options, fear not! There are
plenty of alternative ways to get a wedding dress.
Getting an affordable dress and combining it with
more expensive accessories is a great way to spend
the money to the things that count. The accessories
can be worn again many times so you can be sure
that you have something long lasting.
Any white gown from the store can be a

wedding dress
Don’t forget the off-the-rack dresses from other than
bridal brands. Many shopping malls and department
stores carry simple white dresses in their evening
gown departments. Also several mid priced clothing
brands have at least one white dress in almost every
season. I love the British brand Ted Baker! They have
always offered me good service and I like their style
and price vs. quality.

Non bridal brands tend to be a tad cheaper and still
offer beautiful well made gowns. Prom dresses and
even semi formal summer dresses can look stunning
with well made make-up, hair and accessories.
DIY - sewing by yourself

You can also make your own dress. Don’t worry, it
won’t give you bad luck, but maybe a bit more stress.
When you make your dress you can use the most
of your dress budget on fabrics. I would advice that
only do this if you have sewn for yourself before and
if you have a friend or relative who can help you with
fittings or last week’s embroidery.
TIP! Buy a ready made You can find patterns for gowns in most libraries or
white bodice, corset or order one from internet. It’s important to make a toile,
lace blouse and just add the first fitting version from cheap fabric to see what
the hem.
changes are needed for the pattern.
Make use of all the sewing tutorials from internet.
You might even find local sewing courses where you
have a teacher to help you out and more machines
to use. That’s a good option if you don’t have a friend
who could help you with fittings.
There’s plenty of great looking lace inlays for bodices

available in Etsy. You could order one and add it to
a simple bodice for instant wow factor. It’s quick way
to get really fancy looking dress without the need to
make everything from scratch.
The once loved dresses

Second hand shops are treasure boxes for the
brides with a small budget or vintage loving brides.
Remember to start the dress search early enough.
You can get great bargains, but make sure to check

the dresses for stains and rips and think how much
you need to pay for alterations. If you find a beautiful
dress but it has some damage take a minute to fig-
ure out if you can add some trims to cover them or
refashion that part of the dress somehow.
Remember to ask your relatives, neighbors and

friends if they know a dress for you. You never know
whose cousin, aunt or grandma has the perfect dress
in their closet. Even though refashioning an old dress
might not be particularly trendy right now, it can be
a great option to get something you couldn’t afford
otherwise, like good lace or a big train.
If somebody offers a dress for you and you are plan-

ning to refashion it, think which things you like in the
dress and save those. It might be lace, the hem or the
tone of sateen or trimmings for example. If there is
nothing in the dress that draws you in, there is noth-
ing to be done to make you love it. There must always
be something on the dress that you love or otherwise
it’s a no-go.
Old dresses can look bit musty and yellowed. Some

places clean them out before selling but sometimes
you can find treasures from people who don’t really
sell clothes as their day job. Take the dress to a dry
cleaning where they can tell you what can be done.
Ask at least deodorizing with oxygen if the dress has
any smell. If you have a really old vintage dress, take
it to the cleaners who have some experience with
antique or vintage clothes.
As a home solution for whitening and cleaning the

OxiClean, Vanish or other stain removal products
that work with oxidizing can be tried. Read the in-
structions well and follow them. If there’s beading or
metal of any kind, remove them as they can stain or

change colors during the whitening. Try the whiten-
ing agent at first somewhere hidden or cut a small
piece of fabric for testing. I have treated one gown
successfully in a normal bathtub.
How to wash and whiten Fill the tub with warm water and add the stain re-
your second hand dress in moval powder or liquid. Mix it in well and make sure
a bathtub: all the powder dissolves. Then you can add the dress.
Keep eye on it and don’t leave it in the water all alone.
Afterwards drain the tub and wash the dress again
gently with clean water several times. Let it dry on
a floor or a table on top of several white terry cloth
towels.
After cleaning the dress iron and steam it well and

starch the parts that look like they need bit more
bounce. Sometimes it’s no use to try to save the old
trimmings and it might be easier to make new bows
or new lace appliqués.
Finding the right fabrics might take a some effort but

often the close matches are found and things will
look very good in the end. With lace don’t get stuck
on the exact motives but try to find the similar tone,
shine and size.
Rent your wedding dress

Renting a dress can be really great if you’re not set
on wanting to have it as a keepsake. You could even
search for a rentable dress from theaters or other
costume renting businesses in your area. They are
great especially if you’ve been dreaming about a
period dress or fantasy styles.

Before The Wedding
Keeping the dress in a perfect shape before your wedding
day.
Storing: Give the dress enough

space to hang
TIP! If you don’t have a You should store your dress on a hanger in a breath-
garment bag, cover the able garment bag and keep it inside the house. If
dress with a clean cotton your closet is very full, don’t try to jam your wedding
sheet to keep it away from dress in. The dress shouldn’t be flattened or bend any
dust and dirt.
more than necessary. This way you keep the folds,
hem and bodice in a good shape and wrinkle free. In
best case the dress should hang as straight as pos-
sible or stay on a dress form used in sewing.
If there isn’t enough space in your home or your

family’s homes, ask if you can get the dress from the
shop just a few days before the wedding. You might
be tempted to let the dress lay on the chair or the
bed, but in my experience all the stuff seems to grav-
itate towards the horizontal surfaces and there is too
big a risk that somebody will sit on the dress or leave
things laying on it. That is why hanging the dress is
best way to keep it safe.
You can get a clothing rack for your dress if you have
been thinking about getting one anyway. Ikea has
many different kinds that we’ve been using. Another
good place to hang the dress is at the back of a door
you don’t use much. Key is to keep the dress out of
the way so that it doesn’t get brushed or moved con-
stantly.

If you have been storing the dress in a smaller space
or folded, take it out well before the wedding and
hang it straight so it has time to get back in it is prop-
er shape. Don’t leave it to the last night in case there
is something you need to fix or take care of.
Hang the dress by the loops

TIP! The best way to carry Check that the dress is well adjusted on the hang-
the dress around is with er and hasn’t fallen off. Never hang your dress from
two hands so that you hold
shoulder straps. The dress can be heavy and it will
the hanger in one and the
stretch the straps. Every dress should have two rib-
dress rests on the other.
bon loops for hanging. Often you can find them un-
derneath the arms, sewn into the side seams. Use
these to hang the dress.
If there is no loops, you can add them by sewing

them in yourself or adding them with safety pins. Find
a sturdy place to attach them like a seam, to make
sure the fabric won’t rip from where the loops are.
Keep your dress clean

Your wedding dress is finally there and I know that
you want to touch it and try it on again and again.
I did too! However it is better that you let your dress
hang in your closet and avoid touching it.
There is always dirt and grease on your skin which

will stick to a light colored dress. It looks invisible at
first but give it some time and the grease turns to
stains and yellowing. Many bridal professionals use
white cotton gloves while working with the dresses or
wash their hands often.

The hem of your dress easily picks up dust and dirt
from floors and it will be a pain to remove. Most of the
bridal boutiques ask you to change into inside shoes
or go shoeless altogether to keep the dirt away from
the floors.
If you feel that you want to practice moving around

or need to polish up your dance steps, use your pet-
ticoat if you have one or other long skirt and your
wedding shoes. That gives you a chance to learn
how to move around while keeping the dress clean
and safe.
Friends and family members might want to see the

dress but resist the temptation and show them some
pictures instead. This way they get the full experience
seeing you in the dress first time in the wedding day.
Give your dress a rest dear!
Wrinkles can be treated at home

When you get your dress from the store or from a
seamstress it is often ironed or steamed. They want
to make sure that you are ready to go! However usu-
ally you have to store your dress for several months
(some even over a year) and in that time it can get
rumpled.
If your dress gets wrinkled you should consider if you

want to iron it at home or take it to a dry cleaner for
steaming. If the dress is only slightly wrinkly, hang it in
a way that everything is straight. Usually in few days
most of the wrinkles are gone with the help of gravity
and humidity.
For extra humidity you can hang the dress close to

your bathroom and take a long warm shower with
the door open. Pamper yourself! The slight humidity
works best with dresses made of silk or other nat-
ural fibers. Polyester and many other synthetic fib-
ers don’t absorb water and they’ll need warmth to
straighten.
Often there is parts that can’t be ironed, like sequin or

bead decorations or ruffles. If these parts are badly
rumpled you should consider taking your dress to a
dry cleaner.
Ironing at home
TIP! Move from smaller Ironing your dress at home is possible, but it should
part like sleeves and bod- be done with care. First make sure that your iron is
ice towards bigger ones clean. If not, clean it with a cleaning solution meant
like hem and train. This
for this purpose. Always read the instructions from
way you don’t accidentally
the package. You can use clean cotton sheet on top
wrinkle the parts you have
just ironed. of your ironing board and on the floor to keep your
dress clean. It doesn’t hurt to have one sheet be-
tween the iron and dress. Or you can use a piece of
white tissue paper or something similar.
Always start ironing with the lowest heat possible

and from an unnoticeable place like lining. The irons
are hottest at the moment when they give you the
signal they’re ready to use. You should wait few more
minutes after that to make sure the heat peak goes
down.
If the iron doesn’t move well or feels sticky on fabric

stop immediately and turn the heat lower. Wait for
the iron to cool down before you continue. There’s
real risk for fabric melting or browning if you’re not
careful.

Be gentle while ironing and don’t pull the fabric as it
can be stretched with heat and steam. Let the iron
do the work for you. Move the iron continuously and
never let it stay on one place more than few sec-
onds. You don’t have to hurry, take your time but keep
the iron moving.
Steaming
If you or your friend have a garment steamer, you can
use that too. Let your dress hang freely on a hang-
er, on the back of the door or on a clothes rack or a
dress form if you happen to have one. Make sure that
the water tank of the steamer is clean, wash it well if
necessary and fill it with fresh water. Distilled water
is the best bet as it doesn’t have too much minerals
etc. in it that could accumulate inside the steamer.
Check that the nozzle is clean and wait for the steam.
It takes from few minutes to 20 minutes depending
of the model and size of your steamer. Always try the
steamer first on white cotton or something similar.
Let the steam run about a minute as the steamer will

probably sputter and spit some water out. If there
is still plenty of water droplets within the steam you
have to wait some more. Water can leave light stains
on silk so you want to be extra careful here!
As with ironing, start from somewhere hidden to test

that everything is okay. Steam the dress from up-
wards down. The nozzle doesn’t have to touch the
dress, the steam cloud is enough. Always mind your-
self with steam as it is terribly hot and you don’t want
to burn yourself or your dress. Keep your fingers safe-
ly away from it.

Move slowly section by section and let the steam hit
the fabric for minute or so at the time. You can pull
the dress gently straighter as you work, but don’t use
force. You don’t want to stretch anything, just get it
straightened. Again move from smaller to bigger as
with ironing.
If your steamer is small you most likely need to fill it up

several times and do the dress in parts. The steam-
ing leaves the dress bit damp so let it dry and air out
before you start moving it around. This way you don’t
create new wrinkles right after.
Keeping the armpit stains away

Wedding dresses can get hot and cleaning the sweat
stains from them can be a pain. Sweat guards also
known as arm pit pads and garment guards can be
used to protect the dress from sweat and deodorant
stains. You can buy sweat guards from the internet
or search for them from any well stocked stores and
clothing departments.
TIP! Pantyliners are a Sweat guards used to be made of fabric like cotton
quick sweat guard solu- and cut into the shape of crescent moon. They were
tion. Stick them on their stitched inside the garment underneath the arms.
proper place by their tape
These were used when dresses were difficult to clean
side.
or made from tender materials. You might still find
those in vintage gowns.
Modern sweat guards are sometimes disposable

and sold in multipacks. You can also craft your own.
Many dressmakers also make these and they can at-
tach them to the dress for you. They are especially
important if you have white sleeves that show of the
stains easily.

O n y o u r w e d d i n g
day
Dressing up and moving around in your dress.
Get help for dressing

Oh, the fun part begins! It is your wedding day and
now it is time to get dressed. Gather around your
maid of honor and your bridesmaids and let the par-
ty start. It is your big day so don’t hesitate to ask for
help.
Some people can manage on their own if the wed-

ding dress is light and slip in style. If you have full hem
with layers or corset with hooks or cord you need to
get somebody to close the dress for you. With a zip-
per back it is good to have a helper to zip you in.
No need to sweat
TIP! To keep the sweaty If your wedding dress is airy with several layers of
thighs in check powder fabric it is going to be surprisingly warm. In warm
your groin and legs with weather big tulle hem forms an air pocket around
baby powder. You can also
your legs, a bit like a down jacket, and keeps the heat
try anti chafe balm or un-
and humidity within the garment.
scented deodorant stick.
Make sure you have plenty of time to get ready. If you

sweat easily, dress slowly one layer at a time and take
a break in between the layers. This way your body will
get used to the different temperature.

Put the dress on when everything else is
done
Eat, get your make-up done, do the last minute bath-
room stop, put on your hairspray and mist the per-
fume before putting on the top layer a.k.a your wed-
ding dress. Don’t mist anything on while wearing the
dress as with time the sprays will show as stains on
the fabric. Hairsprays also dim the rhinestones and
sequins because they form a film over their surfaces.
Put on your shoes before the dress so everything fits
as they should. or adjust the dress once you get your
shoes on. Remember, the shoes shape your back and
posture surprisingly much.
Lift the dress up and close it gently

TIP! Make the backside You can cover your face with a silk scarf if the dress
’fat rolls and cleavage’ is raised over your head. This way you protect your
disappear by asking some- make up as well as your dress. Raise the dress high
one to gently push their
enough before closing it and check that the waist
fingers in between the
line is in the proper place and then lift a bit more. The
dress and skin and moving
them from middle towards heavy dresses tend to drag a bit downwards during
you arms smoothing things the day. If your dress has the waist stay, ribbon fitted
out this way. to your exact waist measurement, this should help
significantly.
The little hook at the top should be closed first to not

to strain the zipper. The invisible zippers are made of
plastic and they are much more fragile than people
think. It is best to not yank it with force. Last thing you
need is a broken zipper! For corset back, the helper
should first gently tighten the cord everywhere so
the dress stays put and then tighten it again until it
feels good.

Last minute fixes
You have your dress on, yay! Now move a bit in the
dress, sit down for a few minutes and take note if
everything feels ok. If there is a need to fix the fasten-
ings or shoulder straps, ask somebody to do it now.
Remember that you will spend several hours in the
dress, don’t be shy to ask for help right now.
If things need to be fixed with a safety pin or some

hand sewing don’t let it put you down. They do it on
the catwalks and runaways all the time. Our bodies
are living organisms and swellings, weight or meas-
urement changes are normal and familiar for most
of us.
Go over the dress with a lint roller to get rid of spare

hairs and dust specks.
Things to keep in hand
• Clear sewing thread or threads matched to your dress
colors
• Super glue
• Double-sided tape or dress tape or fashion tape
• Safety pins
• Extra trimming, fabric or jewels
• Sharp scissors
• Clean cotton sheet if the bride needs to sit somewhere
dirty (sudden car change with dusty seats perhaps)

Keep calm no matter what
Sometimes the small accidents happen. For little
tears, you can use double sided tape or even su-
per glue. If you are handy with a needle, use a clear
stitching thread, white thread, slim fishing line or
even a long light colored hair to fix the rip.
You can use safety pins to solve many issues from

rips to securing a button to keeping straps in place.
For zippers that stick, rub the teeth with a bar of soap
or a candle to lubricate the zipper without staining
the dress. If the zipper breaks, it is best to be stitched
into the dress.
If there is an unfortunate event when the hot iron

melts the fabric, don’t cut anything away if it is not
off color. I did this once for my sister’s graduation
party dress in the morning of the party. Luckily I had
extra fabric on hand and was able to fix the straw-
berry sized hole. Try to find a piece of fabric to put
behind the hole on the wrong side and stitch or glue
it on the place. I can promise that most people won’t
notice the stain or a mishap.
Dirt and stains are not end of the

world
It is good to remember that the dress is meant to be
used and you shouldn’t make yourself sick by stress-
ing about ruining it on the wedding day. The hem is
going to get dirty during the day, so let it happen.
Take it easy and enjoy the day.
I feel it shows a bit of bad taste to be overly careful

of the dress in the party, as it makes it seem like the
star of the day is a garment not the wedding couple.
If something happens, it will most likely be a wonder-
ful tale to be told in the future. If at some point you
will need to get rid of the stains so here is what to do.
Stain removal products
• White cotton towels or cloths
• Baby powder or corn starch
• Stain removal pen or wipes
• Rubbing alcohol
• Cotton swabs
• Bar of white soap
• White or off-white chalk used in sewing. Also known as
tailor’s chalk. You can find it in sewing equipment selling
stores. Try to match it to your dress color.
What to do and what not to do

Don’t rub or scrub the stain. You are just spreading
the dirt to make a bigger stain or forcing it deeper
into the fabric. If you are using stain removal prod-
ucts, test them on the wrong side of the hem or other
hidden place to see if there is a color change or oth-
er damage to the fabric or trims.
Remember to test any product according to the

package instructions and never let the solutions sit
on the fabric longer than it says on the instructions.
The stain removal solutions can sometimes melt or
bleach your fabric if not used right.

If you are using cleaning solution, apply it with a clean
cloth or cotton swap so you don’t over saturate the
fabric. Keep plotting the exes away.
It would be optimal to let the wet spots dry on their

own. If you are in a hurry, use a hair dryer in the coolest
setting or other air blowing device and always keep it
well away from the fabric. Never use an iron as it will
burn the stain into the fabric, perhaps permanently.
Quick guide to different stains
1. With a white towel blot up any moisture. Gently lift
away any solids (like food) with a dull knife or something
similar.
2. Always work from the sides toward middle. This way
you don’t spread the stain into the clean parts.
3. If the stain is oily, sprinkle baby powder or corn starch
to absorb the oil. You can also try salt. The powdery and dry
substance absorbs oil and moisture. Use plenty and wait for
a 10 to 15 minutes before gently brushing it away. Repeat if
necessary. Use rubbing alcohol and dab the stain from the
sides towards the middle.
4. Cover the remaining stain with white chalk or baby
powder to hide it. You may also cover the stain with a trim,
beading or lace or even jewelry.

Red wine
Use a white towel to absorb as much of the stain

as possible. Ad plenty of salt or baby powder on the
stain to absorb the rest. Brush away and repeat if
necessary.
Dab gently with a white cloth soaked in plain warm

water from the outer edges of the stain to the mid-
dle. Cover any remaining stain with chalk or baby
powder.
Ink
Use rubbing alcohol. With a fabric or cotton swab,

swipe from the edges towards the middle. Work slow-
ly and change the swab often as ink is transferred.
Blot moisture away with a clean white cloth. Protect

the underside of the dress with an additional white
cloth to help absorb the ink. Cover any remaining
stain with chalk or baby powder.
Lipstick or Make-up
Try a stain removal wipe or stain stick, dabbing at

the stain. Cover remaining stain with chalk or baby
powder.
Blood
Use icy or cool water to blot at the stain from the out-
er edges toward the center. Finish with mild, white
soap solution, rinse carefully and blot dry. Never use
warm or hot water as it only fixes the proteins in the
blood tightly into the fabric.

Move like a queen
Most of us are not very used to moving around in a
big dress. It might be that we don’t ever use anything
as massive as a wedding gown with their full length
skirts and layers of fabric. You might even feel clum-
sy and strange in it. These tips make you more confi-
dent and comfortable.
You probably won’t be able to run or jump in your

dress. Take your time and enjoy moving with slower
pace like the queen you are. Ramming yourself into
tiny spaces and hurrying around makes you trip onto
your own hem or rip it.
Kick the dress away while walking

While walking, kick the dress before you and let it hit
your leg on each step. This way you don’t acciden-
tally step on it as the dress will fall back as you move
forward.
If you are new to heels practice walking with them

before the big day. It is best to practice these things
with just your underskirt at home or with other long
skirt as not to dirty your wedding dress.
If you need to kneel down during ceremony lift your

hem a bit when getting down so it doesn’t get stuck
underneath your toes as you get back up.
The long train is handled bit like trailer in a car: you

need more space for turning. Help the fabric find the
right way with your hand and have your bridesmaids
on hand to straighten it.

Push the hem to the side when sitting
Sitting down can be a bit of a challenge in a big dress.
It is the easiest to sit in a chair that has no arms. You
can use your calf to feel where the chair is exactly.
TIP! Talk with your maid Now would be a good time to have somebody to
of honor and spouse before hold the chair for you (ask your spouse to do that
the wedding day so they
courtesy to you) as it will make sure the chair wont
know how to help you with
slide away underneath you. With a corset you prob-
your dress if needed.
ably can’t lean against the back of the chair but let
the corset help you to keep upright.
It is good to use your hands to smooth the hem away

from your backside before sitting down to avoid wrin-
kles. If you have lots of fabric on top of your backside,
like a bustle, sit down slightly sideways on a chair so
the bustle is not directry under your bum. Once down,
you can wrap your hem over your lap if needed so
nobody will walk on your dress in a cramped dining
area.
If you have a mermaid silhouetted dress or snug

sheath dress remember to tug the hem bit upwards
around your hips and thighs before sitting dow. This
way the dress wont drag down from your back and
bust as your back and bottom stretches longer than
your front in a sitting down position.
Going to a bathroom is easiest with a big dress if you

sit face towards the water tank. This way most of your
dress isn’t in between the tank and your back.
If you have a hoop crinoline you can use it to lift the

dress up and away. You can always ask your maid or
spouse with you for some help. Just make sure that
you have actually tried this before your wedding day.

A f t e r wa r d s
Putting the dress away after the wedding, selling or
sewing to use it again.
Do at least this
Pick the dress up from the floor at least the morning
after and put it back to the hanger. If you want to
keep the dress as a memory or sell or donate it, the
wedding dress should be clean.
Take it to the dry cleaner so the professionals can

treat the stains, clean the dress and oxidize it if it
stinks and steam it back to shape. Hang the dress
well on the hanger in the clean cotton garment bag
or pack it away into a clean, acid-free box with tissue
paper.
The ruin of a dress

All clothes should be stored in a warm and dry space
away from sunlight and strong smells. Often the
clothes are ruined because of set stains and smells,
mildew spots, dirt that crumbles the fabric away (silk
is prone to this) or sun bleached colors (or any UV-
light).
For storing the dress you don’t need to iron it. Ironing
before a long storage period sometimes yellows the
fabric. Also the ironing burns any stains and dirt into
the fabric so they might be difficult or even impos-
sible to clean afterwards.

If the dress has accessories like belt, detachable train
or shoulder straps, store them close to dress or with
it so they don’t disappear. The world is full of clothes
that miss belts or other parts. Store the possible fab-
ric leftover from alterations with the dress.
Saving the memories by keeping

the dress
If you dream of keeping the dress as a keepsake for
decades to come, right storing method is crucial.
Never store your dress wrapped in a plastic bag for
long times. The soft plastic crumples over time and
leaks chemicals into the dress. These chemicals can
turn the wedding dress yellow, make it stink or ap-
pear as stains. Even if the dress looks okay the dry-
cleaning chemicals might later react with the chem-
icals leaked from the plastic and ruin the dress.
Cardboard box
The best way to store your wedding dress is to gently
fold your dress into an acid-free cardboard box and
pad it with acid-free tissue paper into its preferred
shape. Do it so that there is no sharp folds that would
bend or break the fibers of the fabric. You can add a
silica bag in to the box to take care of the humidity.
Just make sure it doesn’t touch the dress fabric with-
out some kind of barrier like cotton or paper.
Storing your dress in a box makes sure that dress

won’t get misshapen by stretching on a hanger and
it is safe from uv-light and dust. You should always
store the box flat on a dry place in room tempera-
ture. The inner rooms of the house are great as there

is the smallest change for big temperature or hu-
midity changes.
Take a look in every few years

TIP! You could include You should open the dress box at least every two
dress unpacking into your years and unpack the dress to see if there is any
wedding anniversary as a changes or stains and get them treated right away.
sweet, new tradition.
If everything is good, pack the dress again in a lit-
tle bit different way so the same parts are not con-
stantly bended. This way your dress will be in a good
shape years and years forward.
You can find acid-free boxes from the internet or

bridal boutiques. Search for museum quality boxes
for storing the clothes or turn to your closest mu-
seum and ask where they get their supplies. Often
quality boxes cost something between 20 to 70 euros
or dollars depending where you get them and how
much of extra things are delivered with it (like muslin
clothes, bust forms etc.). The most important thing is,
that they are as chemical-free as possible.
Get up to 50% off by reselling your

dress
Selling your wedding dress is very ecological choice
to make. There’s several different chanels to do so:
wedding dress shops that buy it from you or resell
it for you. Different internet sites where you pay a
small fee to list your dress or the site takes a certain
percent of your selling prize. You can put an add to
your local graicklist or sell the dress in a facebook
group. Some wedding fairs have their own dress sell-
ing events you can take part to.

As wedding trends come and go, the best way to sell
your wedding dress is to be quick. After few years
time, it is considerably harder to sell a dress that is
no longer in style. On the other hand, after 15 to 20
years the dresses start to gain some retro appeal
and are easier to sell again. There are also timeless
styles like 1950’s dresses which are quite popular all
the time. The potential buyer audience might be nar-
rower but there is always someone to buy a quality
vintage style dress.
Pictures and information sell well

TIP! Remember to pho- Best pictures to sell your wedding dress are the ones
tograph any possible rips where you are wearing it on your wedding day. You
and stains, so they don’t can frame the picture so that your head isn’t visible
come as a surprise for a
for privacy purposes. Then add few pictures where
buyer.
the dress is on a hanger, front and back plus some
detail photos.
Try to keep the pictures clear. Natural light is the

best for photographing as it doesn’t turn the colors
off. You can always include one picture where you
photograph some part of the dress on a basic white
printer paper to give better view of the color.
You should ad the measurements of the chest and

waist with the size of the dress, as the size measure-
ments can vary in between the brands. Also tell the
height and measurements of the last wearer of the
dress (that’s you if you are selling your own gown).
With this information a possible buyer can easily de-
tect if the dress is going to fit them well.
Give the information of possible alterations and if you

still have the extra fabric available. Write everything
that is or isn’t included to the selling prize. These can

include the accessories like belt, train, bolero, gloves
or a hoop skirt.
You should also give the name and brand of the

dress and any other possible design elements that
might help the possible buyer using search engines.
The dress silhouette and color tone are good exam-
ples. You can also use terms like ’with lace sleeves’ or
’with cathedral train’ to better describe the dress.
Keep the prize realistic

Often the garments have sentimental value to us,
but the prospective buyer isn’t ready to pay for the
good memories of the last wearer. They will also of-
ten need to alter the dress for their own measures, so
for them the prize is higher than for you.
Try to think what you would be ready to pay for some-

thing similar in second-hand. You can expect to get
about half of the prize you payed for your dress if
there isn’t any big stains or rips. Remember that you
have spend the money for your wedding dress al-
ready and you are not getting it back fully.
Make the dress into something new

When the clothes weren’t as cheap and plentiful as
now it was normal to reuse every piece of fabric you
owned. My grandma used her wedding gown to sew
lovely lace blouses for both of her daughters. I still
have one of them with me as a keepsake.
It was very typical to reuse the expensive lace again

in a different dress or refashion the wedding dress
into a cocktail dress or an evening gown. Even the

queen Victoria’s wedding lace from 19th century has
been reused. The dress you can see at the museum
is missing the original lace hem. Often the lace and
big hem are great material to use again as there’s
plenty of beautiful fabric.
Make sure you have good pictures of your wedding

dress and get them printed before cutting into the
fabric. This way there’s something to remember the
original dress from.
Turning the dress into new keepsakes

TIP! The decorative parts There are plenty of beautiful keepsake ideas to turn
such as lace and embroi- your dress into. Basically anything that you can make
dery are often the parts out of white fabric is an idea worth checking out.
you want to save and re-
use so keep your eyes open
If you are planning to have children in the future,
for ideas that require lace
consider making a christening or baptism gown out
or trims.
of your dress fabric. Some people have also sewn
bassinet covers, but please keep the safe sleeping
practices in mind when dressing infants beds. Stuffed
toys or play dresses for little kids are lovely options.
Home textiles make wonderful keepsakes and are

much easier to store than a big dress. Coverlets,
quilts, pillows, table clothes, tree skirts and Christmas
stockings are all sweet ways to enjoy the wedding
memories a year after year while creating new ones.
Clothes and accessories

White dresses are fashionable right now so you can
use your wedding dress again in other parties. Nice
idea to use the wedding dress again is to wear it in
wedding anniversary photoshoot with a different
jacket of blouse.

To make the dress more casual unstitch the petti-
coats and lose the train to slim the silhouette. Adding
some colored details or colored overlay will change
the look from bridal to cocktail. Shortening the dress
works well with straight cut gowns.
Most of the time the bodice works well on its own and
you can modify the hem to be a bit more practical.
You can also ditch the hem altogether and just save
the bodice of to be used with different skirts or trou-
sers. You could also use the lace for some sensual
underwear, evening gown or robe. If you are looking
to completely refashion the dress consult a seam-
stress.
Some fabrics can be dyed into different color. Silk,

viscose and polyamide dye well and if your dress is
not huge you can even dye it at home in a washing
machine or in a big pot. If you’re planning to use your
tub, be careful as the dyeing pigment can stain it.
TIP! The different materi- You should always test the fabric and threads as pol-
als and parts in the dress yester and nylon won’t take basic fabric dyes. Some-
can take the color differ- times the sewing threads are made of polyester and
ently. Often lace parts will
they will stay white. Just test it to see if they get dyed
become darker.
or not.
Most wedding dresses have plenty of fabric that can

be used in accessories like purses, boleros, hats etc.
Envelope clutch is easy to sew even if you have not
sewn much before. You can also recycle the dress
into little trinkets like jewelry or table decorations.
The wedding dress will live best in your memories of

your wedding day and in your marriage. Take care of
those above all!

Closing words
Well wishes from the writer and editor
Your wedding dress is a piece of clothing as any other, but the feelings,
hopes, dreams and symbolism make it so much more in our minds. In the
end the fact is that it is a one of a kind dress for one of a kind situation, but
you will wear beautiful things over and over again in the future.
Take these tips and advices and use them the best way you can. Every
bride has their own personality and style so be truthful to yourself. The
most important thing is that you are in love and marrying your best friend.
You will be glowing no matter what!
Iida Silvennoinen (right) is the

cocreator and designer for Fin-
land based wedding brand Heili
Bridal together with her parter
Janina.
Iida has been working as a de-

signer, seamstress, dresser and
sales assistant at theatre and
fashion for the last fifteen years
along with her design studies.
Her wedding brand Heili Brid-

al has been exhibited at Paris
Fashion Week 2018. She’s an
avid gardener and flower lover.
For more wedding inspiration follow Heili Bridal at

Instagram and Pinterest. Head over to our website
and blog at heilibridal.com for more tips and
wedding aesthetics!
Find your perfect wedding dress
and finish your wedding day look
down into the last detail.
The Wedding Dress Book will…

Introduce you to the head spinning va-
riety of dress styles • Challenge the be-
lief you need thousands for your perfect
wedding dress • Gain control and enjoy
the searching and buying your wedding
outfit • Reveal designer secrets to well
fitting and comfortable wedding gown •
Teach you how to take special care of
your dress by yourself.

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The Wedding dress Book 1

The Wedding dress Book 2

Written and illustrated by

Published by Heili Bridal

The Wedding dress Book 3

All rights reserved. No part of this publications

Design: Heili Bridal

Planning and Dreaming 11

What is your wedding dress made of? 23

How the dress is made 30

The magic starts with the underwear 33

New shoes, new you 35

Shopping is easy with a good mood 37

You will get help and information 38

How tight is tight enough? 39

How to stay in budget 44

Getting a dress with a mini budget 46

The Wedding dress Book 7

Keep your dress clean 53

Wrinkles can be treated at home 54

Keeping the armpit stains away 57

Last minute fixes 61

Keep calm no matter what 62

Dirt and stains are not end of the world 62

Move like a queen 66

The ruin of a dress 69

Saving the memories by keeping the dress 70

Get up to 50% off by reselling your dress 71

Make the dress into something new 73

The Wedding dress Book 8

I’m so exited! Are you ready to start?

With love, Iida.

The Wedding dress Book 9

Imagine your dream dress

You might want to take few days or weeks to go

The Wedding dress Book 11

I don’t know what looks good on me!

Don’t think so much about the color or print but keep

Think what kind of clothes you feel sexy or confident

This way you don’t feel so stressed in your dress ap-

The Wedding dress Book 12

We hope this part of the book also shows you the

A dress that flares smoothly from the hips. It’s clas-

A dress silhouette with full, roundish hem. This is a

A slim silhouette with a narrow and straight hem. The

The Wedding dress Book 13

Mermaid Trumpet Empire

The Wedding dress Book 14

Mermaid and Trumpet silhouettes are sometimes re-

The empire line dress has raised waist seam right

Not a dress silhouette but refers to the dress type

Some brands and boutiques might refer the modified

The Wedding dress Book 15

Illusion Off-shoulder Jewel

Scoop V-neck Bateau

Square Halter Halter strap

High Neck Asymmetric/One Shoulder Queen Anne

Cowl Grecian Spaghetti Strap

Bit longer train than a Sweep train, about 30cm long

Mid length train, about 100cm long (3 feet). Suits well