Focus on Fit

Trouser Fitting
GETTING TROUSERS TO FIT JUST RIGHT IS PROBABLY ONE OF THE MOST CHALLENGING
ASPECTS OF GARMENT CONSTRUCTION. WELL-FITTING TROUSERS SHOULD HANG FROM
THE WAIST, SKIM THE HIPS AND FALL TO THE HEM WITHOUT PULLING OR WRINKLING.
FOLLOW KATHRYN BRENNE’S TIPS AND YOU’LL BE WELL ON THE WAY TO
CREATING THE PERFECT FIT.

CROTCH LENGTH

MEASUREMENTS
Begin with an accurate set of
measurements. Use a tape measure to WAIST
wrap around these key points. Do not
HIGH HIP
pull the tape measure tight or wrap it
over a finger. The tape measure should
wrap the body comfortably for the most MID HIP

accurate measurements.

FULL HIP
Waist - To define the waist, knot a
piece of elastic around the waist area. THIGH
Bend sideways and forward. The elastic
should settle at the natural waist.
Measure over the top of the elastic at
the natural waistline. CROTCH LENGTH

Full Hip - The full hip is located 7"

to 9" (178mm - 228)mm below the
waist. Take note of both the full hip
measurement and the distance between
the waist and full hip.
KNEE

High Hip - The high hip is located 3"

(76mm) below the waist.
CALF

Mid Hip - The mid hip is located 5"

(127mm) below the waist.

Crotch Depth - Sitting on a hard CROTCH DEPTH

surface, measure the distance from the
ILLUSTRATIONS: SUN YOUNG PARK

waist over the hip to the flat surface.

Crotch Length - The total crotch length

is measured from the front waist down
through the legs and back up to the
back waist.

Front and Back Crotch Lengths - To ANKLE

determine the front and back crotch OUTSEAM

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lengths, tie a small weight (I use a very stretchy knit, as in leggings, or and hip measurements given on the
washer or a key) to a string. Knot the insert a zip). measurement chart for the pattern size.
other end of the string and loosely (This is usually found on the pattern
slip it over the tape measure. With Height - Standing against a wall, put envelope flap.) The difference between
the legs spread slightly apart let the a pencil mark at the top of the head to the two measurements will give you an
string settle where it wants to while measure total height. idea of how much ease has been drafted
measuring the total crotch length. Take into the garment. To maintain the look
note of the measurement from the Average Shoe Heel Height - This of the pattern it is essential to maintain
waist to the string. This is the front measurement will give you an idea of the same amount of ease throughout
crotch measurement. To calculate the how long the Trousers need to be. your personal alterations.
back crotch measurement, subtract the Most patterns will allow a minimum
front crotch measurement from the wearing ease of 1" to 2" (2.5cm–5cm)
total crotch length. DETERMINING PATTERN SIZE at the waist, 2" to 3" (5cm–7.5cm) at
A pant pattern should be chosen the hip and ½" to 2" (1.3cm–5cm) in
Waist to Floor - Measure from the waist according to the full hip measurement. the crotch depth and length. Crotch
to the floor along the outside of the leg, It is easier to alter for waist depth and length are determined by
in bare feet. This is also known as the circumference than it is to alter the hip. the style of Trousers, with jeans being
Outseam. Compare your full hip measurement the closest fitting and pleated Trousers
to the hip measurement found on being the loosest.
Waist to Knee - Measure from the waist the pattern envelope and choose a
to the knee. If unsure of where the knee size that is closest to your personal A FITTING MUSLIN
is located, bend the knee to find the measurement. It is important to make a fitting
correct length. Once the pattern has been chosen, muslin. A fitting muslin is cut and
cut out the Trousers Front, Back, and sewn from cotton muslin, in a weight
Leg Inseam - Measure from the crotch Waistband pieces and press flat with a similar to the Trousers fabric. If the
to the floor along the inside of the leg, dry iron. Trousers have pocket pieces that make
in bare feet. up part of the Trousers front (as in
WEARING EASE VS. DESIGN EASE jeans), pin them to the Trousers Front
*Tip: Subtract the inseam from the Every garment requires a certain to create a full pattern piece. It can
outseam to calculate crotch depth. amount of ease to allow the wearer be helpful to add ⅜" (1cm) to all seam
Compare this measurement to the to move and sit in the garment allowances. This will give a 1" (2.5cm)
crotch depth measurement taken comfortably from the beginning of seam allowance, which can be used
sitting on a hard surface. The two the day to the end of the day. This is if the garment needs to be let out.
measurements should be similar. called wearing ease. Design ease gives Sew the muslin together with a long
the garment a silhouette. A very full stitch length of 4mm so it will be easy
Thigh - Measure around the fullest part garment will have a lot of design ease to alter. Mark the grain line on both
of the thigh. added to it to give it a certain shape. It the Front and Back legs. This helps to
is not a good idea to ‘borrow’ wearing determine if the garment is hanging
Knee - Measure around the knee. ease from design ease, as this will result straight. Mark the centre front seam
in a different shape than the designer line. It is not necessary to insert a zip.
Calf - Measure around the fullest part intended. If your measurements are If the centre front has been marked,
of the calf. larger than the pattern size it is best to the Trousers can be pinned together
alter the pattern in order to maintain along the centre front seam. Mark the
Ankle - Sitting on a chair, bend the foot design ease. To calculate how much hemline to determine if the Trousers
so it is 90º to the leg. Measure around ease has been added to a pattern, look are long enough.
the heel and over the ankle. This is the for the symbol at the waist and hip. When test fitting the garment, look
smallest circumference you can make This symbol will give the finished for wrinkles. Wrinkles point to or
the Trousers leg that will allow the foot garment measurement in these areas. radiate out from a problem area. With
to fit through (unless you are using a Compare this measurement to the waist the help of a friend, assess the garment

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Focus on Fit

and try to ‘read the wrinkles’. If you

Alterations
are unsure whether the wrinkles mean
that the garment is too tight or too
loose, open up the seams in the area
of the wrinkles to release the fabric. If The Trousers will be altered using the following sequence: lengthen or shorten first,
the wrinkles disappear, more fabric is increase or decrease circumference next, and finally adjust for personal body shape.
required. If the garment is too loose,
try pinning in the excess fabric to make LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN
the wrinkles disappear. Lengthen or shorten lines can be found on the pattern between the waist and hip and
Check the waistband. It should sit between the hip and the knee. Compare your personal crotch depth to the pattern by
parallel to the floor and should not pull measuring from the waist at center back to the horizontal crotch line. Also, pin the
down at centre front or centre back. Front and Back pattern pieces together along the inseam stitching line and compare
Check the side seams to make sure the total crotch length to your personal measurement. Lengthening or shortening
they hang straight. Use a seam ripper the crotch depth will increase or decrease the total crotch length of the pattern.
to open up seams as needed. Repin To lengthen or shorten the pattern, extend the grain line beyond the lengthen/
problem areas and mark alterations shorten line. Cut the pattern apart on the lengthen/shorten line. Insert and tape a
directly onto the muslin with pencil. piece of paper to lengthen the pattern. Align the grain line to make sure that the two
Transfer your alterations to the paper pieces are perfectly aligned. To shorten the pattern, fold along the line and make a
pattern. tuck as deep as half the amount you need to remove. Tape to hold the tuck closed.
Compare your personal waist to knee and outseam measurements with the
PATTERN DRAFTING TOOLS pattern. If the knee is not marked on the pattern and the leg is shaped, the shap-
Accuracy is of the utmost importance ing usually begins in the knee area. Patterns are drafted for someone about 5'5"
when drafting or altering patterns. (165cm) in height. If you are taller or shorter than 5'5" there is a good chance that
The following tools will help create the knee (and therefore the shaping) is in the wrong place. Lengthening or shorten-
accurate lines and make it easier to ing alterations for the leg should be made above as well as below the knee area. By
alter a pattern: lengthening/shortening in two spots, you will maintain the shape of the pattern.

MECHANICAL PENCIL with a .5mm H lead

LENGHTEN CROTCH
SPIKED TOOTH TRACING WHEEL -
The very sharp spikes will not tear the paper.

PAPER SCISSORS

INVISIBLE SCOTCH TAPE can be drawn

over in pencil.

2” X 18” SEE-THROUGH PLASTIC RULER

marked in 1/8” grid.

HIP CURVE RULER - The long tapered curve

is suitable for redrawing the hip area while the
smaller rounded curve at the top of the ruler is
SHORTEN CROTCH
suitable for redrawing the crotch curve.

FLAT HEAD PINS - A ruler can be accurately

ILLUSTRATIONS: SUN YOUNG PARK

placed over the top of these pins and won’t slide

around.

PAPER - A roll of calculator paper is already cut

narrow, making it easy to add to pattern edges
for alterations.

TAPE MEASURE - Use a tape measure

standing up on its edge to measure curves.

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 INCREASE DECREASE
CIRCUMFERENCE CIRCUMFERENCE

INCREASE OR DECREASE CIRCUMFERENCE

Compare your waist and hip measurements to the pattern
measurements. If the pattern has been purchased according to
your hip measurement, the pattern waist measurement may be
too small or too large. If your measurements are larger or smaller
than the pattern measurement, divide the difference by 4 and add/
subtract this amount to the pattern at the side seams. For example,
a personal waist measurement of 27" (69cm) and a hip measurement
of 35" (89cm) might start with a size 10 pattern, which has a 25"
(64cm) waist and 34½" (88cm) hip. This would require an increase
of 2" (½" added to the side seams) at the waist, and ½" (⅛" added to
the side seams) at the hip. Use a Hip Curve Ruler to re-draw the side
seams accurately and smoothly.

LARGE TUMMY
The figure with a large tummy will show with fabric stretched taut
over the tummy and wrinkles radiating outward, side seams above
the hip pulling towards the front, and the front waistband pulling
down. The inseam will also be pulling towards the front, causing
wrinkles in the crotch area that radiate towards the hip bones. To
alter the pattern, add extra fabric to the centre front seam from just
above the crotch curve to the waist. If the Trousers have front darts,
try removing the darts or shorten and reshape them into a curved
dart. Add extra length to the Front piece below the waistband,
tapering to nothing at the side seam. Add extra fabric to the inseam,
tapering to nothing above the knee.

SWAY BACK
The figure with a sway back tips the pelvis or hip line so that it
angles upwards towards the front. This causes the waistband in the BACK FRONT
back to angle downward and excess fabric to show as wrinkles below
the waistband. Side seams will angle toward the front above the hip,
the Trousers may feel tight in the seat area, and wrinkles that angle
towards the inseam will appear under the buttocks. If the pelvis
is thrust forward due to stance, wrinkles may appear in the front
crotch area. To alter the pattern, pin out excess fabric below the
waistband in the back. This may extend slightly past the side seam
towards the front of the garment. Let out the front side seam until
the seam hangs straight. Increase the front dart if needed. Deepen
the back crotch curve in the seat area. If there is too much fabric at
centre back, take in the centre back seam slightly. Shorten the back
darts. Extend the inseams until any wrinkles disappear. Blend the
new inseam into the original seam line just above the knee.

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Focus on Fit
BACK

LARGE BUTTOCKS
The figure with large buttocks will show with tightness in
the back of the Trousers, creating wrinkles that radiate from
the hip and back crotch areas. The back inseam is strained,
the side seams pull towards the back above the hip, and the
waistband may pull down in the back. To alter the pattern,
release the back darts, let out the centre back seam allowance,
add extra fabric to the top of the Trousers below the
waistband, and add extra fabric to the back inseam tapering
to nothing above the knee. Baste the fitting garment back
together and re-pin the darts as needed.

BACK
FLAT BUTTOCKS
The figure with flat buttocks will show excess fabric and
wrinkles forming in the back seat area. The Trousers will
sag and create diagonal wrinkles from the side and inseams
towards the centre back crease of each leg. To alter the
pattern, pin out the excess fullness horizontally across the
back of the Trousers. This will lift the seat and should help
to eliminate the wrinkles from the leg area. Pin out excessive
fullness in circumference with a vertical tuck down the back
side seam, tapering to nothing at the knee. If needed, re-pin or
remove the back darts.

DROOPED BUTTOCKS
The figure with drooped buttocks will show with horizontal
FRONT BACK
wrinkles under the buttocks. The waistband and back of the
seat pull downward. To alter the pattern, scoop out the seat
area of the back crotch curve. Pin the Trousers Front and Back
together at the inseam. Redraw the Front crotch seam with
less of a curve joining into the new Back crotch curve with a
smooth line.
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 FRONT BACK
LARGE THIGHS AT THE SIDE
Large thighs at the side may be larger than the full hip.
This figure shows with fabric pulling taut at the side seams.
The Trousers tend to ride up, forming horizontal wrinkles
above each thigh from the inseam across to the side seam
and under the buttocks. The centre crease of each leg pulls
outward at the thigh. To alter the pattern add extra fabric
to the side seam, beginning above the thigh bulge area, and
taper to nothing above the knee.

FRONT
LARGE THIGHS AT THE FRONT
Runners will often develop large thigh muscles on the front
of their legs. Trousers will pull taut across the front of the
legs and cup under the buttocks. The side seams will angle
forward and horizontal wrinkles will appear in the crotch
area. To alter the pattern add extra fabric to the front
inseam and side seam, tapering to nothing above the knee.
Re-pin the centre front seam and if necessary take up the
front waist until the Trousers hang straight. Re-pin the front
darts as needed.

FRONT BACK
THIN LEGS
The figure with thin legs will show vertical folds hanging
down the Trousers leg. To alter the pattern, pin out the
excess fullness equally on both the inseam and outseam
from the hem, tapering to nothing at the hip.

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Focus on Fit
BACK

LARGE CALVES
On a figure with large calves, the back Trousers leg pulls
taut across the back of the leg below the knee. The lower
side seam pulls toward the back, and a wrinkle will appear
above the calf. This problem will show more in tapered-leg
Trousers. To alter the pattern, lift the back of the Trousers
below the waistband. In doing so the back crotch curve
will need to be deepened. Once the Trousers hang straight,
falling from the hip and clearing the calf, the back hem of
the Trousers may need to be lengthened.

LOWER HIP
ONE HIGH HIP FRONTS
The figure with one high hip will show diagonal wrinkles
across the Trousers, pointing toward the higher side. The
hem of the higher hip will be shorter than the lower side.
To alter the pattern, lift the lower hip until the Trousers
hang straight. The crotch depth may need to be lowered to
accommodate this. Taper the new waistline on the lower
hip to nothing at centre front and centre back. Adjust hems
as needed. A left and right Front and Back pattern will be
required. Mark the pattern accordingly and cut the fabric LOWER HIP
with the right side of the fabric facing up. BACKS

TIPS FOR FITTING V9114,

KATHRYN’S ELASTICATED WAIST TROUSERS
Kathryn designed V9114 with an elasticated waist just large enough to fit
over the hips, but no more, to avoid excess fullness at the waist. If your hip
measurement is larger than the pattern envelope, it is important that the waist
be altered as well as the hips so you can get the Trousers on! If your waist is
quite small in comparison to your hips and altering the waist to fit over the
hips will result in a lot of excess fabric, consider keeping the waist as is and
inserting a 9” invisible zip closure in the side or centre back seam. The invisible
ILLUSTRATIONS: SUN YOUNG PARK

zip will allow you to get the garment over your hips and keep a smaller waist.
Adjust the pattern for personal alterations before sewing the centre back
seam and attaching the waistband. Try the Trousers on before sewing the
centre back seam. Pin the centre back seam for a customized fit. Sew as
pinned and then attach the waistband. Kathryn Brenne is the
V9114, Misses’ Y(4-14), ZZ(16-26). owner of The Academy of
Price code Green. Fine Sewing & Design.
Visit her website
www.finesewing.com

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