Beginner 39 S Guide To Toy Making

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WelcomE
Beginner’s guide to
TOY MAKING
Sewing your own toys is so
much fun, and we’re thrilled
to bring together a fabulous
collection of patterns designed
and made by Jo Carter. From
cuddly bears, raccoons and
frogs to classic rag dolls and smiley pencils, you’re
sure to find plenty to inspire your next project. All
the templates you need for each toy are included
at the back of this magazine for you to copy.
As well as a fantastic selection of patterns, we’ve
also covered all the basics that you’ll need to make
your toys – check out the workshop section to
learn about different sewing stitches, adding facial
features and stuffing your finished toy. Jo talks about
her favourite makes in this collection below, and you
can also find out more about her on page 6.
Vicki Atkinson, Editor
My favourites...
by Jo Carter
For the very first time, a huge
collection of my patterns has
been brought together in one
place to take us through the year
– from springtime chicks and
lambs to festive reindeer and a
jolly snowman. These toy designs are fun and fast
to sew – once you get the hang of it! They’re also
easy to personalise with embroidered initials or
names, and will make wonderful gifts.
If you’re just starting out, then the plushie trio
on page 99 is a good first project! The body shape
is simple to assemble, so the focus is on fitting the
extras and embroidering a smiley face.
Picking my favourite is tricky as it’s often
the little details that hold a special place in my
memory, such as the simple way that our cover star
rag doll’s shoes are made, or how the butterfly’s
wings are joined to give it a more realistic shape.
But if I had to choose a favourite based on design,
it would have to be the mermaid with her long
wavy hair, shell bikini top and belly button!
BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 3

ContentS
Beginner’s guide to 35
TOY MAKING
22
6 27
31
43
18 39 50
Features Spring summer
06 Meet Jo Carter 22 Forever friend 50 Leading lady
Say hello to the talented designer and A classic rag doll design A tiny ballerina in a twirly tutu
maker behind the toys in this collection
27 Baa-rilliant! 55 Rattle and roll
09 The toy workshop Two adorable sheep plushies Animal rattles that babies will love
Get started making toys, from cutting
out pattern pieces to adding features 31 Chirpy chicks 61 Shelf safari
A great project for Easter Make a gentle giraffe
18 Know your sewing machine
We share expert tips and tricks for using 35 The frog chorus 65 Sleepy ted
this handy tool to make your toys Sew a pond-dwelling duo! The perfect bear for bedtime snuggles
39 In a flutter 69 Mermaid magic
A pair of stash-busting butterflies A pair of amazing aquatic dwellers!
43 April showers 73 Fin-tastic
Make a weather-themed mobile Stitch yourself some seahorse softies
77 Digital love
Go retro with these romantic robots
4 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

ContentS
91 77 82
87
95
99
29 107
TOYS TO SEW
INCLUDES ALL
TEMPLATES!
103
55 65 112
61
69 73
Autumn Winter
82 Hello dolly
The sweetest pair of Russian dolls
87 Puppy love
112 Let’s make a snowman!
Get set for winter
117 Totally magical

117
A winsome pair of pooches A unicorn with a pastel mane and tail
91 What a hoot!
Owl softies with a secret quilted pocket!
95 Raccoon buddy
121 Run run Rudolph
The perfect Christmas make
125 White as snow

121
125
An adorable critter made from soft plush A polar bear pal
99 Plushie palooza 129 Penguin pals
A simply-styled fox, cat and bear trio Arctic cuties you’ll adore
103 Totally roarsome

Templates
129
Meet our friendly T-Rex
133 All the templates you'll need to copy
107 Pencil pals to make the toys in this collection.
Kawaii-style colouring crayons

MY SEWING
WORLD
by Jo Carter
The designer behind all our toy projects Meet Jo Car
in this fabulous collection shares her T V demonst ter, toy designer and
sewing life and inspirations. rator on Se
wing Quart
er!
ost days, you'll find me working in my sewing
M room at home, with a radio drama playing in the

background and a cup of tea within easy reach.
I spent the first part of my sewing career
designing for factory production, then I started
working on designs for magazines such as
Simply Sewing and Love Patchwork & Quilting. When TV
channel Sewing Quarter launched in 2016, I was also offered
the chance to demonstrate, so I keep myself pretty busy!
A JOY TO DESIGN
The first step in the design process is always a front and
side drawing to scale of how the finished toy should look.
The pattern templates are then worked out from the
drawing. Whether the toy works out first time is often
down to luck, but a general rule of thumb is, the better &KSHQ?GU'=IPK
the drawing at the start, the better the toy at the
end, so it pays not to rush it. Sometimes the OLAJ@OKIQ?DPEIA@KEJC
body is fine but the head needs altering and
vice versa, so there is often a pile of oddly OKIAPDEJC'NA=HHUHKRA
shaped toy body parts in my waste bin!
Recently I designed a sloth and while he
had a jolly little face, his forehead was
disproportionately large and so he went back to
the work table for a face lift! It’s all part of the fun.
Hearing the latest issue of a magazine
drop through the letterbox and seeing a
new design in print never loses its
excitement, and I love seeing my toys
appear in Simply Sewing and Love
Patchwork & Quilting.
I've also recently started work on
launching my own range of kits,
which has meant acquiring some new
skills! Whereas before I could send the
finished toy, all of the step-by-step Jo's ballerina softie on
photos and written instructions to the magazine page 50 is one of her
team to lay out beautifully and make sense of the favourite designs so far
“I'd never made a toy in
process, now I'm doing it all myself. Even styling a tutu before!” says Jo.
and taking the cover shot of the toy itself is a new
challenge. Various items such as decorative tins, plants
and wooden toys are piling up in the corner of my room
See Jo on Fre
www.youtube eview 73 and
.com/sewingq
uarter.
in
“Seeing a new design
LNEJPBKNPDANOPPEIA
JARANHKOAOEPOAT?EPAIAJP
just in case they are required to dress a cover

picture! While getting to grips with all
aspects of putting a new design and kit
together has been intense, being able
to include my favourite fabrics for both
feel, look and ease-of-handling is really
kit
One of Jo's new toy special – as well as with the freedom to
use! add a few hints and tips photos and
designs, Nell the Mo sketches here and there too.
GOING ON AIR
Working alone in my studio means that I can spread my
work out and focus fully but it can be a bit lonely, so my days
in the studio with the Sewing Quarter team are a real
highlight – even if it does mean a very early start to be live
on air at 8am! It's been wonderful to be involved with
Sewing Quarter from the very start of the channel, and
When Jo isn't making toys demonstrating projects live on air with the fantastic
(and appearing on live TV!) presenters is great fun.
she loves to quilt – this sweet Two years on, it still surprises me how much I enjoy
dachshund wall hanging is
one she made for Love appearing on Sewing Quarter. When it was first suggested
Patchwork & Quilting. to me I couldn’t have imagined anything more terrifying
than being on live TV! The nerves have gradually faded,
although maybe they’ll be back in full force once
I'm presenting my own kits!
Having made a couple of on-air mistakes (including a
time when I described a common mistake to avoid and then
did exactly that!), I’ve realised that viewers don’t mind if
things don’t go entirely to plan and sometimes it’s good to
see that anyone can make a mistake. As the shows are live, it
means we get messages into the studio and it’s lovely to
have that interactivity with the audience, and to see photos
of their makes – I’m hoping viewers will give me plenty of
ideas of what they want to see for future designs and kits.
Keeping me inspired...
Being given projects to work on is
wonderful, as trying to force
inspiration to strike is virtually
impossible. It usually hits when
work and sewing is out of mind.
In the past, I’ve been inspired by
the illustrations in my sons’ picture
books, by clothing fabrics when out
shopping and by Sewing Quarter
viewers. Instagram is full of lots of
talented makers so it is always a
wonderful source of inspiration too.
$KHHKS(KKJ'JOP=CN=I
One recent project in Love
Patchwork and Quilting was @jo2owls for a sneak peek
Jo’s family cat loves to ‘hel inspired by our family cat!
=PDANBQPQNALNKFA?PO
p’
with her sewing projects.

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the toy
workshop
Get started with our guide to the basics,
from stitching toys together to stuffing and
adding embroidered finishing touches!
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get started with toy making

All of the toys in this collection include the pattern 01 02
templates to photocopy at 200%, cut out and sew
together, by hand or by machine. For more details
and to see all the templates, head to page 133.
As well as joining the template pieces, another
key element of toy making lies in how you finish
the features and add detail. Creating a cute facial
expression often relies on internal stitches within
the head of the toy that manipulate the features
into position, which are made by hand after the
toy is assembled. These face-shaping stitches are
often worked between the eyes to bring them
inwards. They can also be worked between the
corners of the mouth up to the eye above to pull
the mouth into more of a smile and give the cheek
more definition. Face-shaping stitches can really 03 04
transform the finished look of the toy.
CHOOSING EYES
So much of a toy’s appeal depends on its eyes, so
more often than not there will be internal shaping
between them. The two main options for toy eyes
are plastic safety eyes or embroidered eyes, and,
whichever option you have chosen, face-shaping
stitches can then be used to perfect their position.
PLASTIC SAFETY EYES

Plastic safety eyes are available in various sizes,
give a good finish and are easy to use. They must
be fitted following manufacturer’s instructions.
With plastic eyes, it is important to mark on the
fabric pattern pieces the position of the eyes prior stitches can be made using thread that through the head back to the other eye and pull
to sewing as it is difficult to position them both coordinates with the fabric around the eye. lightly on the thread to draw the eyes together
correctly once the toy is sewn together. Step one If you're continuing with the same thread slightly. The thread needs to go back and forth at
after embroidering the eyes, then take the thread least three times or more if you're using a more
EMBROIDERED EYES back into the eye that has just been stitched and delicate thread. 04
These are not limited by size, style and availability through the head and out at the other eye. Step eight Continue to pull on the thread until the
like plastic eyes and can be stitched to the exact Step two When sewing shaping with the eyes are in the desired position and then secure
requirements of a design, giving you even more embroidery thread, the stitches must be within the thread with a few small stitches.
opportunities for adding personality! They are the eye so that they are not visible outside of it and Step nine Take the needle back into the head with
also the safest eye option for a toy intended for don’t alter the shape of the eye. 01 a small stitch and out again anywhere and snip
children under the age of three. Embroidered eyes Step three If the toy has plastic eyes, use thread away the excess to leave a tail of thread inside the
can be made by backstitching the outline of the that coordinates with the fabric surrounding the stuffed head.
eye and then filling it in with satin stitches, or by eye for your stitching. The stitches will be worked Step ten If after completing the face shaping it
using an embroidered knot such as a French knot next to the eye and should blend in with the fabric appears too subtle, more stitches can be added in
or a colonial knot. Stranded cotton is ideal for and not be visible. the same way without having to remove the first
stitching eyes as you can vary the number of Step four To secure the thread before beginning set until you're happy with the finish.
strands depending on the look you want and it lies the shaping, make several small stitches to anchor Step eleven Face-shaping between the corners of
flat on the fabric. For a handy overview of some of the thread as close to the eye on the inside as the the mouth and eye above are done following the
embroidery stitches that you might need for washer behind will allow. same method.
finishing your toy projects, see page 16. Step five Take the needle though the head to the
inside of the other eye. 02 Try the glove puppet tutorial on the next page as a
WORKING THE SHAPING STITCHES Step six Take the thread back through the head to first easy toy making project. The teddy has
If enough thread is left over after embroidering the first eye, making sure that the stitch isn’t so embroidered eyes and a fabric nose, a stuffed
the eyes and it hasn’t been cut off, then the same small as to pull and damage the fabric or the head and a loose body. For more help on sewing
thread can be used for the internal shaping embroidered eye. 03 and stuffing filled shapes, head to page 12. This is
stitches. If you've used plastic eyes then the Step seven Once again take the needle back a great first make and a lovely gift for little ones!

WorkshoP
make an easy glove PUPPET

YOU WILL NEED 01 02
QFleece fabric: 45x45cm (18x18in),
mid-brown, for the main body
QLining fabric: 50x25cm (20x10in)
QBlack fleece or felt fabric: 5x5cm
(2x2in), for the nose
QPolyester toy filling
QStranded cotton: black
QMatching thread
QWater erasable pen or pencil
QBasic sewing kit
FINISHED SIZE
Approx 21cm (8¼in) tall.
NOTES 03 04
QYou'll find the templates for this on
page 133.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance
unless otherwise stated.
QAs the ears are sewn directly into
the seams it is advisable to sew
over the joins twice to make sure
they are well-secured.
CUTTING OUT
Step one Copy and cut out all the template pieces.
The templates include seam allowances and the piece to the middle face. 01 Step five Clip the internal corners under the arms on
arrows indicate the print or pile direction. The Step four Place two ear pieces RS facing and sew both the lining and the body and make clips at the
notches are used to match the pieces, so mark together around the curve. internal curves around the ‘neck’ area on the lining. 04
them on the fabric. When the pattern specifies to Step five Turn RS out and tack the bottom edge Step six Turn RS out and stuff the head. Push the
cut two, these need to be cut as mirror images. closed to keep the raw edges level. lining inside the body and test the amount of
Step two Cut out the following pieces: Step six Repeat to make the other ear. stuffing in the head, making sure that there is still
From the fleece fabric cut: Step seven Tack the ears to the RS of the face room to fit the top of two fingers in when in use.
Middle face – cut 1. where marked. 02
Side face – cut 2. Step eight Sew the dart in the back head RS ADDING THE FEATURES
Ear – cut 4. together, tapering the end. Step one Draw on the facial features using a water
Back head – cut 1. Step nine Sew the lower front of the face together erasable pen or similar as a guide for stitching.
Body – cut 2. below the nose. 03 Step two Using six strands of stranded cotton,
From the lining fabric cut: backstitch the mouth.
Lining – cut 2. MAKING THE BODY Step three Use French knots (see page 16) for the
From the black fabric cut: Step one Sew the bottom of the face around the top eyes or backstitch small circles and then infill them
Nose – cut 1. of a body piece RS together. using vertical satin stitches.
Step two Sew the bottom of one lining piece to the Step four Sew internal shaping between the eyes
MAKING THE HEAD bottom of the body. Repeat to attach the back head to pull them in slightly as shown on page 10.
Step one Sew the top of the nose to the bottom of and remaining lining piece to the other body piece. Step five Adjust the filling if needed then close the
the middle face with right sides (RS) together. Step three With RS together, line up the dart at the top opening in the top of the lining by folding it under
Step two Take a side face piece and sew to its of the back head with the marker at the top centre of by 1cm (⁄ in) to the wrong side and stitch.
corresponding side of the middle face. Try to avoid the middle face and sew the front and back of the Step six Push the lining back inside the body with
sewing into the seam allowance at the bottom of puppet together along one side, bearing in mind that the top part into the stuffing inside the head.
the nose and instead finish 5mm (¼in) from the the top end of the lining needs to be left open. Step seven To seal the stuffing inside the head, the
edge of the fabric to avoid it being puckered. Step four Return to the top centre point and sew the lining can be stab stitched to the body where it
Step three Repeat this to attach the other side face opposite side together. meets around the neck seam.

WorkshoP
sewing and stuffing shapes

Sewing a three-dimensional filled shape, be it 01 02
a plushie toy, handy pincushion or something
decorative for the home, requires many of the same
skills and techniques as other craft projects – taking
measurements accurately, careful cutting out and
neat sewing both on your machine and by hand will
ensure you achieve a quality finish.
When stuffing, there are many different types of
fillings you can use to stuff your shape depending on
what kind of project you are making – often adding
a combination of filling varieties is the best way to
create a firmly stuffed shape.
CUTTING PATTERN PIECES

Cut out all your pattern pieces accurately before you
begin. Always check your pattern first to see if it 03 04
includes a seam allowance. In most cases it will be
included, but if not then make sure you add your
own. A seam allowance of 5mm (¼in) is good for
small shapes or tight curves to maintain accuracy.
Whatever you choose, remember to be consistent
throughout the project.
PINNING INTO PLACE

Pin each pattern piece to your fabric, making sure you
follow the grainlines printed on the pattern pieces.
These are arrows that indicate the print or pile
direction for marking and cutting out. If a pattern
doesn’t have them then think logically about which
way each piece will face when the project is sewn
together. This is particularly important if you are using
a patterned fabric or one with a pile such as velvet or corners to help the seams to lie flat when you turn always check the manufacturer's guidelines to see if
fleece. If you don't want to pin the pieces in place, you your shape right sides out. 02 it's baby and toddler safe.
can instead use a water-erasable pen to draw around
the pattern pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric. EMBELLISHING HOW TO STUFF
Pinning isn't always possible with thicker fabrics, or on If you are going to embroider or embellish your filled If you are using soft toy filling, gently tease the
fabrics where pins can leave a mark, so use the right shape (see page 16), it’s usually best to do this before stuffing apart before you push it into the shape so
method for your fabric type. you assemble the fabric pieces. Sometimes you will you use small pieces rather than dense lumps – this
need to add these stitches after you have filled the will create a more even finish.
CUTTING THE FABRIC shape, particularly if you want to use them to sculpt Use a rounded tool to work the filling into the
Cut out each shape carefully and then either keep the and shape the piece. Stitches are worked from the shape, such as a the end of a small paintbrush or
pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you're ready outside and through the filling to create definition, wooden spoon, so you don’t break the stitches.
to stitch, or remove them and label the fabric pieces such as facial features on dolls and animals. If you are using one of the other filling types, pour
on the wrong side. When the pattern specifies to cut it in using a funnel made from a roll of paper. If you’re
two or more of a pattern piece, after cutting out half TURNING OUT using sand or walnut shells, you will need to stuff
of the pieces required the template then needs to be Once all of the seams are stitched, trimmed and some of the more pointed areas with fiberfill so they
turned over to mark and cut out the remaining half so pressed, you can turn your finished piece right sides keep their shape. Also, add a little fiberfill just under
that the pieces are cut as mirror images. 01 out. If there are any corners, push these out into a neat the opening to keep it all in place while you are
point gently, but take care when doing this as the stitching the gap closed. 03
STITCHING TOGETHER snipped seam allowance could fray and show on the When you have finished filling the shape, pin the
Following the instructions given with the pattern, right side of your shape. You can use a knitting needle turned-under edges of the gap closed, then slip stitch
stitch each piece together using a consistent seam or similar blunt tool to help you turn out the corners. using small, neat stitches. 04
allowance. Usually, you will need to leave a gap in one
seam so you can turn your assembled fabric pieces FILLING TYPES
right sides out ready for stuffing. It’s best to leave this Polyester soft toy filling, also called fibrefill, is the
gap along a straight seam if possible. After stitching usual choice for stuffing your filled shape, particularly
your shape together, clip the curves and snip the for making toys. There are other choices of fillings, but

WorkshoP
More about stuffing

Here are some more tricks and tips you can EQUIPMENT
use to make your stuffed toys and other filled Turning the fabric right side out can be fiddly,
shapes beautifully smooth and even. so this is when you'll need a range of crafty TOP 10 TIPS FOR
CHOOSING THE RIGHT FABRIC
tools to help tease out the corners and seams.
The best items we've found for turning out PADDING FABRIC SHAPES
Curved edges, sharp corners and narrow shapes sewn shapes are artist's paint brushes, which Follow these go-to hints and tips
can be a challenge, not only for machine sewing have rounded, tapered handles (and will come when making your filled shapes.
but for evenly padding the shape, too. Choosing in handy when it comes to filling your shape,
the most appropriate fabric for your project is too) as well as tapestry needles, which are The finished padded shape will end
key to an even finish. A gorgeous, lightweight
cotton or cotton lawn is the perfect fabric for
thicker, sturdier needles with a blunt tip.
Fully supporting the fabric in your hand while
1up being smaller than you think
once sewn, so bear this in mind if
smaller shapes. Finer fabrics turn right sides out you are carefully eking out seams and pushing you're designing your own.
more smoothly, with little bulk, which is ideal narrow sections the right side out will help you Trim the seam allowance down
for narrow areas and tricky corners. to prevent pushing the seams open. If you have
trimmed your seam allowances or cut additional
2 around the stitched edge to help to
reduce bulky seams.
MAKING YOUR FABRIC SHAPE notches cut into them, be careful not to pull the
Choose a straight edge or a smooth,
One of the simplest tips is to take your time at
every stage, from tracing the templates and
seam allowance through to the front when
teasing out any tricky sections.
3 curved side to position the turning
gap. This will make it a lot simpler to
machine sewing, to finally filling with stuffing
slip stitch together after stuffing.
and adding the finishing touches by hand. FILLING YOUR DESIGN
The opening for turning the fabric
Use your machine's handwheel to give you
greater control when it comes to machining
This stage is when your design will really take
shape. To create a smoother finish, the stuffing 4 right side out should measure at
least 5-7cm (2-3in). A small opening
around any tight corners and curves. You can should be shredded before you start – this is
also sink the needle and then lift the presser where the filling fibres are pulled apart prior will definitely make the task a lot
foot to pivot the fabric slightly before putting padding the shape. Shred the filling a little at trickier than necessary.
the presser foot back down to continue sewing. a time, and work it into any narrow corners and Clipping and making V-shaped
This will take time to get the hang of, but you'll
be rewarded with beautiful curves and outlines.
sections of the design first before filling the rest
of the shape, using an artist's paintbrush handle
5 notches around any curved edges
will help to keep them smooth and
Trimming a narrow seam allowance around to gently push the stuffing in place. Make sure lump-free.
the machined outline will help to reduce bulk, the handle is large enough so that it doesn't just A tapestry needle is perfect for
and cutting V-shaped notches around curved
edges is essential for smooth lines. Just take
pass through the stuffing. You'll be surprised at
just how much stuffing toys will take, so have
6 teasing out tricky corners and
shapes. The blunt tip means it won't
care when doing this not to cut through your plenty to hand. Test the shape's firmness as you damage your fabric or stitches.
machine stitches! go to achieve your desired finish.
The handles of artist's paint brushes
7 are ideal for encouraging corners
to turn the right way out. They are
To achieve a smoother finish,
pull apart the fibres of the tapered, which is great for smaller
stuffing before you start sections. Crochet hooks and knitting
filling your shape. needles are another useful option.
Always support the fabric in your
8 hand when teasing out fabric edges
and corners – this will help to avoid
pushing seams open and fraying.
Keep the toy stuffing smooth by
9 shredding and separating it before
filling your shape, and by using a small
amount of stuffing at a time.
There are lots of varieties of toy
10 stuffing available. Polyester is
the most popular, but there are also
washable, organic and synthetic
options and some may not be suitable
for babies and toddlers, so check the
the manufacturer's guide first.

WorkshoP
stitching by hand
For most toy projects you will need to do some best for most toy projects as it’s stronger than to stitch. You can start off by making a knot in
hand-stitching, such as when tacking pieces pure cotton thread. the end of your thread, which is fine when
together before sewing them on the machine working tacking stitches, as the thread will be
or closing up turning gaps to finish the toy after THREADING YOUR NEEDLE removed later. But for other hand stitches,
stuffing. Each type of hand stitch has a specific There are two ways of threading your needle, remember that knots can come undone so this
purpose to give your projects that perfect depending on the stitch you’re working. isn’t a guaranteed secure method. Working
finishing touch, and with a little practice you Single thread: This is used for most hand a double stitch is a tidy way to start off without
can learn them all. Test any new stitches out on stitches, especially those that you want to be using a knot. To do this, work a small straight
a scrap piece of fabric before you start on your invisible. Cut the thread to the length you need stitch for your first stitch and then stitch over it
main project to try out the technique first. then thread it through the eye and knot the a couple of times, keeping it as neat as possible.
end if you want to start off that way. Slide the needle through the stitches on the
WHAT NEEDLE AND THREAD TO USE Double thread: This is used for stitches that wrong side for extra security.
Use a sharp needle with an eye large enough so need to be strong and secure, such as running
the thread goes through easily, but not too big stitches for gathering. Cut the thread twice the FINISHING YOUR THREAD
so it slips out while you’re stitching. The smaller length you need then fold it in half and thread Once you've finished your stitching, you must
and finer the needle the better as you’ll get the two ends through the eye of the needle. finish off your thread securely to ensure your
neater stitches and the needle will be less likely The loop that’s left at the other end can then be stitches don’t come undone. You can work
to damage your fabric as it will pierce the fabric used to slip the needle through after the first a double stitch to secure the thread as at the
threads rather than snagging them. A crewel stitch has been made for a really secure beginning of your stitching, or another method
needle is ideal for this. knotless start. is to create a knot. First take the needle through
Use a thread that matches your fabric as to the wrong side of the fabric. Catch a tiny
closely as possible so the stitches can’t be seen. STARTING OFF thread of the fabric on the wrong side then pull
This doesn't apply to working tacking stitches, Before you begin any hand stitching, it’s the needle through it to form a small loop then
though – it’s best to use a contrasting thread important to start off correctly. If you’ve started thread your needle through it. Pull the needle
colour so it’s easy to see when removing them with a double thread then you can simply slide and a small knot will be made. Work a small
later. A polyester thread or poly-cotton mix is the needle through the loop and you’re ready stitch over this to be extra secure.

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7 6
5 4
3 2
3 1
2
BASIC TACKING DIAGONAL TACK SLIP STITCH

Tacking (known as basting in the US) is This stitch is worked horizontally and This stitch is almost invisible so is perfect
used for holding two pieces of fabric parallel to form diagonal stitches on the for hems. Bring the needle up at 1 on the
together temporarily. Start with a knot front. It is used to hold the fabric layers top fabric or turned-over hem then back in
then use a single thread to make straight together securely, as the diagonal stitches at 2 and out at 3 on the base fabric. Make
stitches, evenly spaced. When you need to will stop the fabric shifting. They are ideal this stitch as small as possible so it can’t be
remove them, pull the thread out or cut it for slippery or thicker fabrics. To work this seen from the front. Repeat by making
every few stitches if there are lots of them. stitch, follow the numbers on the diagram. a vertical stitch back into the top fabric.
5 3 2 1 1 2
4 3 2 1 6 4
3
RUNNING STITCH BACK STITCH BLANKET STITCH

This stitch is similar to tacking and is used This is a strong stitch and ideal for working This can be used to neaten the edges of
for decorating a finished project or for any small fiddly parts of seams that you a blanket as well as for appliqué to add
gathering fabric. Bring your needle up and can’t reach with your sewing machine. fabric shapes to the base material. Bring
down through the fabric to create regular The stitches should all be the same length the needle out a short distance from the
stitches. Make sure that all the stitches are with no gaps between them. Bring the edge of the fabric at 1, then back in at 2
the same length and the spaces between needle up at 1 and down at 2, up again at and out at 3 with the thread underneath
them are that length too for a neat stitch. 3 and so on. the needle. Pull it through to form a loop.
6 7 3 2 7 6 11 10
2 3
8
1 2 1 5 4 9
4 5 1
LADDER STITCH WHIP STITCH HERRINGBONE STITCH

This is used to join together and close two Whip stitch (or overcast stitch) is used to This is ideal for keeping layers of fabric flat
turned under edges invisibly, such as on join the edges of two fabrics such as felt or against each other – so is perfect for hems
a soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one other fabrics that don’t fray. With the or sewing down seam allowances. It allows
side of the seam, then in at 2 on the fabrics right sides together, bring your the hem a little give so works well on
opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is needle out at 1 on the front of the fabric, curves and thicker fabrics. Bring the needle
3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in over to the back then through and out at 2. out at 1 on the hem, in at 2, out at 3 and so
the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Continue in this way to work small stitches. on, keeping your stitches evenly spaced.

WorkshoP
adding the embroidery

01 02 03
5 3 2 1
2 4
6
2
1
1
04 05
1
3 2
Adding embroidered features, decoration and and fold it in half to create a loop at one end. Thread the same length with no gaps between them. Bring
details to a toy will give personality and make it your needle with the two tail ends and then bring the needle up at 1, down at 2, up at 3, down at 4 and
truly unique. Here we take you through a few tips, your needle up to the front of your fabric, leaving so on, always working back on yourself. 03
techniques and embroidery stitches you can use to a small loop of thread on the reverse. Make your
add noses, eyes and more to your toys. first stitch and pass the needle through the loop on CHAIN STITCH
the reverse. Pull to secure the thread. Now continue Bring your needle up at 1 then back in again at 2 just
GETTING STARTED with your stitching as normal. below. Bring the needle up again at 3, making sure
There are many different threads you can use but that the thread is lying under the needle. Pull the
stranded cotton is the most common. Each length needle through the fabric slowly to form a neat loop.
of thread has six strands so you can use different
numbers of strands depending on how thick you
want your stitches to be.
TYPES OF STITCH
SATIN STITCH
Continue stitching from right to left in this way,
making sure all the chains are the same size. 04
A waste knot is the simplest way to get started. This is a simple filling stitch, so is ideal for embroidering FRENCH KNOT
Knot one end of your thread and take it down toy noses or eyes. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side This stitch creates a small, neat knot on the surface of
through the front of your fabric, about 2.5cm (1in) and then take it back down at 2 on the other side. the fabric and can be used to add eyes to your toy if
from your starting point. Bring it back up to make Continue working in this way, making sure the stitches you aren't using plastic safety eyes.
your first stitch. Begin stitching your design, are touching. 01 First, bring your thread up where you want your
making sure you stitch over your starting thread. French knot to be. Holding the thread with your left
Once your starting thread is secure, simply snip off STRAIGHT STITCH hand, twist the needle around the thread twice (do
the knot. To secure the thread when you’ve This stitch is great for toy's mouths and can be worked not twist the thread around the needle). Insert just
finished stitching, weave it through the back of to any length, but take care it doesn't sag across the the point of the needle back into the fabric close to
your stitches. fabric. Bring the needle up at 1 at the start and then where it emerged and slide the knot down the
The other option is to use the loop method. If down again at 2 to finish. 02 needle to rest on the surface of the fabric. Pull the
you’re working with two strands you can use this needle through to the back of the fabric, keeping the
neat starting method. Cut a single length of thread BACK STITCH thread taut so the thread stays twisted around the
that is double the length you want to stitch with Back stitch should be worked so that all the stitches are needle to form a French knot. 05

WorkshoP
For a simple starter project,

try these super-cute pencils
on page 107 – add the smiley
face details with plastic eyes
and an embroidered mouth.
For more of a
challenge, add
hand-stitched Add detail and
detail such as texture with
the control machine-sewn
panel on our lines, such as
robot toy our fox plushie
(page 77). on page 99!

Know Your
sewing machine
Using a machine can really speed up your toy making
– familiarise yourself with the basic functions
with this handy at-a-glance guide.
THREAD FEED
Your spool of thread sits at the top of the
machine. The thread goes through a series of
channels and loops before it reaches the needle
(your manual will detail exactly how to thread
your machine). There will also be a numbered
dial that can be raised or lowered to adjust the
thread tension as your fabric requires.
NEEDLE
Most machines come with a needle already in
place (and a replacement), but your manual will
show you how to swap it for a different one.
When sewing speciality fabrics (for example,
a heavy denim, or a slippery lace) you should
change to a different needle size to ensure the
best results – ask for advice when buying fabric.
FEED DOGS
PRESSER FOOT Feed dogs are teeth underneath the
This metal attachment sits beneath your needle presser foot that guide the fabric
and holds your fabric in place. A lever moves it through. Some machines allow you
up to position the fabric and back down when to drop the feed dogs, which is
sewing. The basic presser foot is the one you’ll needed for freehand embroidery.
use most, though there are lots of speciality feet
to use for everything from quilting to zips.
BOBBIN
This small plastic or metal spool sits in a special
unit underneath the sewing area, below the
foot and needle. Check your machine’s manual
to find out how to load your bobbin. Once it has
been loaded, the bobbin thread and the top
thread feeds meet to form each stitch. The
bobbin case is either drop-in or front-loading.

Know Your
HAND WHEEL MACHINE FEET

Use the hand wheel to move the With these five feet in your collection
needle up and down manually. you can tackle most sewing projects.
This is essential for controlling the
stitching line in tight spots and
corners. To avoid your thread 1 Standard
getting caught or tangled, be sure 2 Zip
to always turn the wheel towards 3 ¼ inch
you. When winding bobbins, you 4 Free-motion
may need to disengage the needle 5 Walking/quilting
action by pulling out the hand
wheel (consult your manual for
how to do this on your machine).
1 2 4
3 5
MACHINE TYPES
There’s a machine option for every skill
level, from beginner to seasoned pro.
ELECTRONIC
As you’d expect, electronic machines are
powered by an electric motor that moves
the needle and bobbin (and powers a light).
Electronic machines are ideal for beginner
BACKSTITCHING sewists – they can be packed with features,
Most machines have a button or but are generally easy to use.
switch that enables you to sew in
the reverse direction. It’s the best COMPUTERISED
way to start and finish your line of
Computerised machines are suited to more
stitching – just stitch forwards and
experienced seamstresses or professionals
backwards for a few stitches to
– they have lots of clever stitch functions
secure your thread.
and a computerised screen, and some give
you the option to input your own designs.
OVERLOCKERS
Overlockers finish seams by overstitching
the edge and trimming away excess fabric
in one go. These are a great investment, but
a machine zigzag (or even pinking shears!)
STITCH SELECTOR will also do the job just fine for beginners.
The method used to change the
type of stitch varies between
machines, but the principle is the
same. For most projects, you’ll
just need the basic straight stitch
and zigzag stitch.
STITCH LENGTH
This allows you to change the
stitch length. For standard
seams, aim for a setting of 2 or
2.5. A longer stitch length is
useful for quick tacking lines.

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SPring
Fluffy chicks, an adorable sheep duo, a classic
rag doll and much more, plus the perfect project
to sew during those April showers.
22
27
43
31
35
39
Make an heirloom toy that little
ones will treasure forever with
this classic rag doll design.
Rag dolL

Rag dolL
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED NOTES CUTTING OUT

Q Fabric A: 28x28cm (11x11in), QYou’ll find the template for this toy Step one Copy and cut out all the template
for hair on pages 134-135. pieces. Arrows on the pattern pieces indicate
Q Fabric B: 40x40cm (16x16in), for skin QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance pattern/pile direction for marking and cutting
QFabric C: 40x40cm (16x16in), for unless otherwise stated. out. When the pattern specifies to cut two or
body more of a pattern piece, after marking out half
Q Fabric D: 20x20cm (8x8in), of the pieces required the template needs to be
for leggings turned over to mark out the remaining half so
Q Fabric E: 22x40cm (9x16in), that the pieces are cut as mirror images. Using a
for dress water erasable pen, draw around the pattern
Q Fabric F: 20x10cm (8x4in), pieces onto the wrong side (WS) of the fabric
for shoe and cut out the following:
QSnap fasteners or Velcro (optional) From Fabric A:
QPolyester toy filling Large fringe – cut 1.
QStranded cotton in black Small fringe – cut 1.
QTwo pieces of ribbon: approx Back hair – cut 2.
20cm (8in) Pigtail – cut 2.
QWater erasable pen or pencil From Fabric B:
QBasic sewing kit Face – cut 1.
Neck – cut 1.
FINISHED SIZE
Ensure dolly’s arms, Arm – cut 4.
QApprox 40cm (16in) tall. Feet – cut 2.
legs and pigtails From Fabric C:
are secure by Front body – cut 1.
sewing the joins Back body – cut 2.
more than once. Sleeve – cut 2.
Dress front facing – cut 1.

Rag dolL
04 05 06
10 11 12
Dress back facing – cut 1. left so that the fold is on the opposite side to give edge of the sleeve and then press the seam
From Fabric D: a pair of mirror-image pigtails. 02 With the front allowance to the WS and sew into place to
Legging – cut 2. folded side of the pigtails against the RS of the hem. Fold the sleeve in half RS together and
From Fabric E: face, tack them into position where marked. 03 sew along the side seam. Turn the sleeve RS
Dress front – cut 1. out and fit it over the top of an arm, making
Dress back – cut 1. MAKING THE BODY sure that all of the raw edges line up. Tack the
From Fabric F: Step one Sew a back body piece to its sleeve in place at the top of the arm. Repeat to
Shoes – cut 2. corresponding side of the front body at the make and fit the other sleeve. 07
shoulder with RS facing. Repeat for the other Step four With RS facing, place the front and
MAKING THE FACE side. Finger-press the seams open. 04 back body together along one side and
Step one As the pigtails, arms and legs are sewn Step two Sew the neck to the top of the body sandwich the top of an arm in place between
directly into seams, we advise that you sew over with RS facing. 05 Place two mirror-image arm the shoulder seam and the marker. Pin in place
the joins to make sure they are firmly secured. pieces one on top of the other with wrong sides with RS facing. Sew the side of the body
This will reduce the likelihood of them being (WS) facing and sew together, leaving the top together, fixing the arm in position. Repeat for
pulled out by accident. open. This doll has been made using mainly the other side. 08
Step two With right sides (RS) of the small fringe cotton fabric so clipping into internal curves
and the corresponding side of the face together, and cutting notches around the external curves MAKING THE LEGS
sew the pieces together and then sew the large is instructed, but clipping isn’t always required Step one With RS facing up, position a shoe
fringe to the top of the face. Sew a back hair with stretchy fabric. When clipping, always take piece over a foot and topstitch around the top
piece to its corresponding side of the neck. care to avoid cutting into the stitching. Clip into of the shoe approx 3mm (/ in) in from the edge.
Repeat for the other side. 01 the internal corners and clip V-shaped notches Sew around the remaining sides of the shoe
Step three With RS together, fold a pigtail in half in the seam allowance around the external inside the seam allowance to hold the shoe
and sew around the sides, leaving the short end curves of the arm. Turn RS out and stuff, leaving securely to the foot. Trim away any excess shoe
open, and then turn RS out. With the open end the top 1-2cm (/ in-¾in) empty. Tack the end that overhangs the foot. Sew the top of the foot
on the right, fold the open end in half and tack closed to keep the raw edges aligned. Repeat to section to the bottom of a legging. Repeat for the
the fold in place. Repeat to make the other make the other arm. 06 other shoe, foot and legging. 09
pigtail, but this time with the open end on the Step three Zigzag stitch along the bottom Step two With RS together, fold a leg piece in half

Rag dolL
13 14 15
16 17 18
and sew along the back and down around the With RS together, place a dress back facing piece Embroider the
shoe/foot. Turn RS out and stuff, leaving the top over a back dress pieces so that the edges align. doll’s smiling face
using black
1-2cm (/ in-¾in) empty. Bring the top open end of Sew these pieces together from underarm to stranded cotton.
the leg together so that the seam runs centrally underarm, leaving the sides free. Clip into the
down the back of the leg and tack the end closed. seam allowance at the internal corners and clip
Repeat for the other leg. 10 Close the dart at the V-shaped notches around external corners. Turn
back of each back body with the RS of the fabric RS out and press.
facing. Sew the back body pieces together from Step three Repeat these steps to assemble the
the bottom up as far as the dart. 11 front dress pieces. 14 Topstitch from the
Step three With the front of the legs against the RS underarm to underarm around the top of the
of the front body, tack the legs in position one at a front and back dress sections. 15
time where marked.
Step four Bring the front and back body MAKING THE DRESS
together and pin RS together. Sew across the Step one With RS together, sew the front and
bottom of the body, fixing the legs in position. back dress along the sides. Turn the dress RS out
Take care to remove all pins. 12 and then press the seam allowance to the WS
around the bottom of the dress and hem. 16 using black stranded cotton (three-strand
ASSEMBLING THE DOLL Step two Securely fit your preferred fastener to thickness for the smile and eyelashes).
Step one With RS together, start at the top the tops of the dress straps on either side. Note Step two Re-adjust any filling that has become
centre notch on the large fringe and sew the that if you do not want the dress to be disturbed and close the opening in the back
face to the back hair/neck section, ensuring that removable, the straps can be hand-stitched using ladder stitch then put on the dress.
the markers line up during sewing. together once the dress is on. 17 Step three Tie each piece of ribbon into bows
Step two With RS together, sew the back of the and trim the ends (apply glue to seal if desired).
head and body closed, but leaving a 7-8cm (3in) FINISHING THE DOLL Make several stitches through the knot of the
opening in the back of the doll. 13 Zigzag stitch Step one Turn the doll the RS out and stuff. bow so that it can’t be untied then stitch in
around the lower half from underarm to Mark out the facial features using a water- place at the top of each pigtail. 18
underarm on each of the dress and facing pieces. erasable pen or pencil and embroider a face

baa-
rilliant!
Mary had a little lamb, but we bet it
wasn’t as cute as these two! Sew
your own pair of sheepish softies.
SprinG lambS
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT

QTextured plush fabric: yellow, Step one Copy and cut out all of the pattern pieces.
50x50cm (20x20in) (to include back The templates include seam allowances where
ears and limbs) or 50x35cm necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print
(20x14in) (to exclude back ears and direction for marking and cutting out. The notches
limbs) are used to match pieces when stitching together,
QSmooth plush fabric: ivory, so mark these too. When the pattern specifies to
20x20cm (8x8in) (for face only) or cut two or more of a template, after marking out
25x45cm (10x18in) (to include back half of the pieces required, the template needs to
ears and limbs) be turned over to mark out the remaining half so
QPrinted cotton fabric: 26x20cm that the pieces are cut as mirror images.
(11x8in) Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil draw
Q2 safety eyes: black, 1cm (/ in) out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side (WS) of
diameter the fabric and cut out the following:
QPolyester toy filling From the textured plush fabric:
QStranded cotton: black Front head – cut 2.
QWater erasable pen or pencil Back head – cut 2.
QBasic sewing kit Body – cut 2.
Tail – cut 1.
FINISHED SIZE Base – cut 1.
QApprox 34cm (13½in) tall. And, if applicable:
Back ear – cut 2.
NOTES Arm – cut 2.
QYou’ll find the templates for this toy Leg – cut 2.
on page 136. From the smooth plush fabric:
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Middle face – cut 1.
unless otherwise stated. Side face – cut 2.
And, if applicable:
Back ear – cut 2.
Arm – cut 2.
Leg – cut 2.

SprinG lambS
04 05 06
10 11 12
From the printed fabric: where the facial seams lie line up. 04 MAKING THE TAIL
Front ear – cut 2. Step four With the front of the ears against the RS of Step one Fold the tail piece in half RS together and
Hand/foot – cut 4. the face and the ear folded in the direction of the sew, leaving the straight end open. 10
neck, tack the ears in place between the notches. Step two Turn the tail RS out and stuff lightly to
MAKING THE EARS Fit the shank of the eye in the middle face where make it a little fuller. Tack the end closed.
Step one The ears, arms, legs and tail for the lamb marked then fit the eyes in place. 05
are sewn into seams and to ensure they are securely Step five Place the back head pieces RS together ATTACHING THE ARMS AND LEGS
held and limit the likelihood of them being pulled and sew from the top down along the back of the Step one Fold one body piece RS together so that
out it is important to over-sew the joins. A shorter head for 4cm (1/ in) just to join them. 06 the sides of the dart line up.
stitch length can also help to strengthen seams. Step six Line up the seam at the top of the front face Step two Insert the top of an arm into this dart so
Step two With right sides (RS) together, place RS together with the central seam in the back head that the seamed end of the arm is at the bottom of
a front ear on top of a back ear, sew together and from this top point sew the front and back the dart. Sew the dart together so that the arm is
around the sides leaving the bottom edge open. head together down one side. Return to the top sandwiched in place and taper the bottom end of
Turn RS out and make a fold in the centre of the point and sew the remaining side together. Sewing the dart to give a smooth seam.
front ear so that it mirrors the shape and width of the seam in two parts in this way is easier and helps Step three Repeat for the other arm on the other
the back and then tack the fold in place across the to ensure a more even finish. 07 body piece. 11
bottom of the ear. Step seven Sew the side face and front head pieces Step four Sew the two body pieces RS together
Step three Repeat for the other ear but make the RS together at the lower front of the face/head. 08 along the front.
front ear fold in the opposite direction. 01 Step five With the legs against the RS of the body
MAKING THE ARMS AND LEGS and the leg seams facing the centre, tack them in
MAKING THE FACE AND HEAD Step one Sew a hand/foot piece to the bottom of place in between the notches. 12
Step one Place the ‘nose’ ends of a side face piece an arm with RS together. Step six Sew the base around the bottom of the
and middle face together and then stitch them Step two Fold the arm and hand/foot in half body pieces with RS together, sandwiching the
together along the top of the side face. Repeat for lengthways with RS together and sew down the legs in place in the seam. This is a tricky piece to
the opposite side. 02 side and around the hand/foot. Clip the seam attach especially if using a longer pile fabric, so
Step two Place the two front head pieces RS allowance at the outer (unfolded) corner and clip it’s best to tack the base on by hand before
together one on top of the other and sew the the internal corner on the hand/foot. machine stitching. 13
section at the top front together. 03 Step three Turn it RS out and stuff, leaving 2cm
Step three Starting at the bottom of the face, sew (¾in) at the top empty, and then tack closed. ASSEMBLING THE LAMB
the face around the middle of the front head RS Step four Repeat for the other arm and then make Step one Tack the tail to the RS of one of the body
together making sure that the notches indicating the legs in the same way. 09 pieces in between the notches.

SprinG lambS
13 14 15
16 It may take more

than two shakes of
a lamb’s tail to sew
your own, but it’ll
be worth it!
Step two Turn the body RS out then sew the head
to the body with RS together. 14
Step three Turn the body WS out. Sew the back
head closed, finishing at the start of the body.
Step four Sew the bottom back of the body
together, finishing the seam 2cm (¾in) above the
tail and leaving an opening in the back. 15
Step five Turn the lamb RS out and stuff.
ADDING THE FEATURES

Step one Sew some shaping between the eyes by
bringing the needle out at the inside of one eye,
securing the thread with a few small stitches and
then taking the needle through the face to the
other eye and back to the first eye and then back
again to the second. Pull lightly on the thread to
draw the eyes together slightly, giving the face a
little more character. Secure the thread, take the
needle back into the head and out again at any
point and then snip away the excess.
Step two Stitch a nose and mouth onto the lamb’s
face using black stranded cotton. Adjust any filling
that was disturbed by sewing the shaping then sew
the back of the body closed using ladder stitch. 16

EasteR chickS
chirpy
chicks
These fluffy birds aren't just for Easter –
they’ll be all-year-round playtime pals.
Learn how to sew your own brood.
EasteR chickS
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT facing then place both of them on top of a
QFabric A: 50x50cm (20x20in), Step one Copy and cut out all the template piece of wadding that is larger overall than the
for main body pieces. The templates include seam allowances beak.
QFabric B: 30x30cm (12x12in), where necessary and the arrows indicate the Step two Sew together down the sides of the
for beak and legs print direction for marking and cutting out. The beak, sewing through all three layers but
QWadding scrap notches are used to match pieces when leaving the bottom straight edge open.
QPair of 12mm (½in) black plastic stitching together, so mark these as well. When Step three Trim away the excess wadding from
safety eyes the pattern specifies to cut two or more of a around the beak and clip the seam allowance
QPolyester toy filling template, after marking out half of the pieces at the tip of the beak.
QMatching thread required, the template needs to be turned over Step four Repeat this to make the other beak
QWater erasable pen or pencil to mark out the remaining half so that the section in the same way. 01
QBasic sewing kit pieces are cut as mirror images. Step five Turn the beak sections RS out and
Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil press lightly.
FINISHED SIZE draw around the pattern pieces onto the wrong Step six Tack the back open edge together on
QApprox 24cm (9½in) sitting. side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following: each beak part and trim away any overhang of
From Fabric A: wadding or seam allowance along the back to
NOTES Face – cut 1. give a neat straight edge. 02
QYou’ll find the templates for this Chin – cut 1. Step seven Place the two beak sections one on
toy on page 137. Back head – cut 2. top of the other, making sure that the tips of
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Wing – cut 4. the beak line up, and tack them together along
unless otherwise stated. Tummy – cut 2. the back edge. 03
QSew over the joins of the beak, Back body – cut 2.
wings and top and bottom of the Base – cut 1. MAKING THE FACE
legs first to secure them well. From Fabric B: Step one With RS together, close the darts in
Beak – cut 4. the face piece. 04
Leg – cut 2. Step two With the beak against the RS of the
Top foot – cut 2. face piece, tack the beak into position. 05
Bottom foot – cut 2. Step three With RS together, sew the chin
around the lower part of the face, pausing at
MAKING THE BEAK the corners with the needle down through the
Step one Place two beak pieces right sides (RS) fabric and lifting the presser foot to readjust

EasteR chickS
04 05 06
10 11 12
the fabric before sewing the next section. MAKING THE LEGS Step four With the underside of the wings
Step four Make the smallest holes possible Step one Fold a leg in half lengthways with RS against the RS of the body, tack them into
through which to allow the shank of the eye in together and sew along the long side then turn position where marked ensuring that they are
the face where marked. Fit the eyes in place RS out. facing the correct way. The curved side should
according to manufacturer’s instructions. Step two Fold a top foot piece in half with RS face towards the centre of the tummy so the
When using a thin fabric, it is advisable to fit a together and fit one end of the leg inside into wings lie correctly.
small square of felt or wadding over the shank the top of the dart so that all of the raw edges
of the eye before fitting the back to support are together.
the fabric around the eye. 06 Step three Sew the dart together, tapering the Add extra detail by
end to fix the foot in place. working lines of
MAKING THE HEAD Step four Repeat this with the other leg and the straight stitches on
the feet for toes.
Step one Place the back head pieces RS facing top foot. 10
and sew together along the back from the top Step five With RS together, sew a bottom foot to
down for 5cm (2in) just to join them. 07 a top foot and leg section, starting at the back
Step two With RS together, line up the seam of the foot and moving the leg out of the way
joining the back head pieces with the central during sewing so that it doesn’t get caught, and
dart at the top of the face and from this point leaving an opening of 2cm (¾in).
sew them together along one side. Step six Clip the seam allowance at the tip of
Step three Return to the top centre point again each toe and in between in the internal corners
and this time sew the remaining side of the and then turn RS out. The feet will be stuffed
face and back head together. Completing this separately at the end.
seam in two separate stages is easier and helps Step seven Repeat this to make the other leg in
to ensure an even finish for the head. 08 the same way. 11
MAKING THE WINGS MAKING THE BODY

Step one Place two mirror-image wing pieces Step one Place the tummy pieces RS facing and
RS facing and sew together, leaving the top sew together along the front. 12
open. Step two Sew a back body piece to its
Step two Turn RS out, stuff lightly and then corresponding side of the tummy RS together.
tack the open edge closed. Step three Repeat this to attach the other back
Step three Repeat to make the other wing. 09 body piece. 13

EasteR chickS
13 14 15
16 17 18
Step five Adjust the tops of the legs so that the Remember to sew
seam runs centrally down the back. joins on details
Step six With the front of the legs against the RS such as the beak
twice to secure.
of the tummy, tack the legs into position where
marked on the template. 14
ASSEMBLING THE CHICK

Step one Sew the bottom of the head to the top
of the body with RS together. 15
Step two Starting at the back of the body/base
sew the base RS together around the bottom of
the body and finishing at the back. 16
Step three Sew the back of the chick RS
together, leaving a 10cm (4in) opening in the
back of the body. 17
FINISHING OFF
Step one Turn RS out, stuff the body and close
the opening using ladder stitch.
Step two Stuff each of the feet and close the
openings using ladder stitch. 18

the frog
chorus
Children will love joining this cuddly
amphibian duo for aquatic adventures
and singalongs aplenty!
Frogs
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT MAKING THE ARMS

QMain plush fabric: green, 50x50cm Step one Copy and cut out all the template Step one Fold an arm piece in half lengthways
(20x20in) pieces. The templates include the seam with right sides (RS) together and sew along the
QPlush fabric: white, 9x9cm (4x4in), allowances where necessary and the arrows length, leaving the short ends open. Turn RS out.
for the eyes indicate the print direction for marking and Step two Repeat this for the remaining arm piece
QFelt: green, 15x25cm (6x10in), cutting out. The notches are used to match and then repeat the same process with each leg
for the lily pad pieces when stitching together, so mark these piece. 01
QPair of 8mm black plastic too. When the pattern specifies to cut two or Step three Fold a hand in half RS together, with
safety eyes more of a template, after marking out half of the the bottom end of an arm inside at the base of
QPolyester toy filling pieces required, the template needs to be turned the hand so that the fold in the arm is against the
QStranded cotton: black over to mark out the remaining half so that the fold in the hand. The pile/nap of the plush should
QWater erasable pen or pencil pieces are cut as mirror images. lie in a downward direction. The side of the hand
QBasic sewing kit Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, should overlap the side of the arm by at least the
draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side seam allowance.
FINISHED SIZE (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following Step four Sew along the base of the hand,
QApprox 32cm (12/ in) full length pieces: securing the end of the arm in place.
or 19cm (7½in) sitting. From the main plush fabric: Step five Move the arm out of the way and sew
Top face – cut 2. the top of the hand together around the fingers,
NOTES Bottom face – cut 2. leaving a 2-3cm (¾-1¼in) opening in the side of
QYou’ll find the templates for this toy Back head – cut 2. the hand through which the arm can protrude so
on page 138. Arm – cut 2. that it is kept out of the way of the stitching.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Hand – cut 2. Step six Clip the seam allowance at the internal
unless otherwise stated. Leg – cut 2. corners between the fingers.
Top foot – cut 2. Step seven Repeat this to make the other hand
Bottom foot – cut 2. and arm. 02
Tummy – cut 2.
Back body – cut 2. MAKING THE LEGS
From the eyes plush fabric: Step one Fold a top foot in half RS together with
Eye – cut 2. the bottom end of a leg inside positioned at the
From the green felt: top of the dart, with the fold in the leg to the
Lily pad – cut 2. front of the dart.

Frogs
04 05 06
10 11 12
Step two Sew the dart together, tapering the Step four Adjust the top of a leg so that when with arms and legs attached with RS together
front end and sandwiching the end of the leg flattened the seam is in the centre at the back of all the way around, leaving the top straight edge
in place. the leg. Position the front of the leg against the open. As the arms and legs are sewn directly
Step three Sew a bottom foot to the top foot RS of the tummy in between one set of bottom into the seams it is advisable to sew over the
with RS together, moving the leg out of the way markers and tack into place. joins a few times to make sure they are well
during sewing and leaving an opening of 2-3cm Step five Repeat to tack the other leg into secured and to reduce the likelihood of them
(¾-1¼in) in the side of the foot through which position on the opposite side. 07 being pulled out. 12
the leg can protrude. Step three Sew the head to the body with RS
Step four Clip the seam allowance at the internal ASSEMBLING THE HEAD together, taking care to match up the seams.
corners between the toes. Step one Sew the top and bottom face sections Step four Close the back head fully, continuing
Step five Repeat for the remaining leg and foot RS together all the way along the mouth edge. 08 down to the back body, and finish to leave an
pieces. 03 Step two Place the back head pieces RS facing opening of approximately 8cm (3/ in) in the
and sew together along the back edge from the back of the frog. 13
MAKING THE FACE bottom up for approximately 6cm (2/ in) to just
Step one With RS together, sew the bottom edge join them. 09 FINISHING THE FROG
of an eye around the internal curve in the top of a Step three Sew the face to the back head with RS Step one Turn the frog RS out, stuff the head and
top face piece. together. body, hands and feet and then close all of the
Step two Repeat for the remaining eye and the Step four Clip the seam allowance on the back openings using ladder stitch or similar. 14
top face. 04 head pieces only at the internal corners at either Step two Shape the face by bringing the needle
Step three Place the top face pieces RS together side of the base of each eye. out on the mouth seam 3cm (1¼in) in from the
and sew together along the front. Repeat with Step five Where marked on the template, make side of the face, securing the thread with a few
the bottom face pieces. 05 the smallest holes possible through which to small stitches. Take the needle straight up
allow the shank of the eye in the eye pieces. Fit through the face to just under the eye above and
ATTACHING THE ARMS AND LEGS the eyes into place according to the then back down to the mouth again and then
Step one Place the tummy pieces RS facing and manufacturer’s instructions. 10 back up again to the under eye. Don’t make the
sew together along the front. 06 shaping stitches too small as they may pull and
Step two Position an arm seam side facing ASSEMBLING THE FROG damage the fabric.
downward, against the RS of the tummy and in Step one Place the back body pieces RS facing and Step three Pull lightly on the thread to draw the
between one set of top markers. Tack this into place. sew together along the back edge, starting from corner of the mouth upwards. This will give the
Step three Repeat this to attach the other arm on the bottom up, for approximately 8cm (3/ in). 11 frog more of a grin and the face a little more
the opposite side. Step two Sew the back body to the tummy character.

Frogs
13 14 15
16 17 18
Step four Secure the thread, take the needle back

into the head and out again at any point and
then snip away the excess. 15
Step five Using all six strands of the black
stranded cotton, hand-sew a mouth in
backstitch. Start stitching from one corner of the
mouth, which is formed by the face shaping
stitches, to the other following the seam all the
way along. 16
MAKING THE LILY PAD

Step one Place the two lily pad pieces with RS
together, one on top of the other.
Step two Using a darker thread, sew together
down the centre and around the outside 3-5mm
(/ in-¼in) in from the edge. Add a few stitch lines
to look like leaf veins, working from the centre
outwards each time, as shown.
Step three Trim around the outside of the lily pad
to neaten the edge. 17
Step four Place the frog on top of the lily pad
then stitch it into place at the front and back of
the body.
Step five Fold the legs up and stitch the feet to
the lily pad and the folded ‘knee’ formed on each
leg to the frog’s body.
Step six Sew the legs together and also to the
Hop on! The lily pad
body at intervals so that no large loops remain, is quick and easy to
which can get caught and pulled and pose make and the perfect
a risk to little hands and fingers. 18 finishing touch for
your bug-eyed friend.

in a
flutter
Flit down to the garden to hunt out these
butterfly buddies, made using the
brightest fabrics in your stash.
ButteRflieS
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT ASSEMBLING THE FRONT WINGS

QPlush fabric: 20x20cm (8x8in) Step one Copy and cut out all the template Step one Place one front wing right sides (RS)
QCotton print fabric A: 20x20cm pieces. The templates include seam allowances, facing with one middle front wing and stitch
(8x8in) where necessary, and the arrows indicate the together along the straight edge.
QCotton print fabric B: 20x20cm print direction for marking and cutting out. Step two Place the corresponding bottom front
(8x8in) When the pattern specifies to cut two, after wing RS facing with the middle front wing and
QCotton print fabric C: 15x25cm marking out half of the pieces required, the stitch together along the straight edge. Press
(6x10in) template needs to be turned over to mark out the seams open.
QCotton print fabric D: 40x25cm the remaining half so that the pieces are cut as Step three Repeat this to make the other front
(16x10in) mirror images. This is particularly important wing using the other three pieces. 01
QPair of 6mm black plastic safety with plush fabrics so the pile lies in the correct
eyes direction. The notches are used to match pieces QUILTING THE WINGS
QWadding: 2 pieces 18x23cm when stitching together, so mark these too. Step one Place one assembled front wing on top
(7x9in) Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, of a piece of wadding that is larger overall than
QPolyester toy filling draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong the wing and quilt by stitching through both
QStranded cotton: black side (WS) of the fabric. Cut out the following: layers in your chosen pattern.
QWater erasable pen or pencil From the plush fabric: Step two Trim away the excess wadding from
QBasic sewing kit Front body – cut 1. around the sides of the wing.
Back body – cut 2. Step three Repeat this to quilt the other front
FINISHED SIZE From the cotton print fabric A: wing in the same way. 02
QApprox 28cm (11in) wide. Top front wing – cut 2.
From the cotton print fabric B: ATTACHING THE BACK WINGS
NOTES Middle front wing – cut 2. Step one Stitch together a quilted front wing
QYou’ll find the templates for this Antennae – cut a 2.5x20cm (1x8in) strip. with a mirror-image back wing piece RS facing,
toy on page 139. From the cotton print fabric C: leaving the straight edge open.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Bottom front wing – cut 2. Step two Clip the seam allowance at the two
unless otherwise stated. From the cotton print fabric D: internal corners where the top and bottom
Back wing – cut 2. meet the middle front wing piece taking care to
avoid any stitching. Clip V-shaped notches in
the seam allowance around curves. 03
Step three Turn the wing RS out then lightly

ButteRflieS
04 05 06
10 11 12
press it with a warm iron and topstitch around then fold in half, bringing the ends upwards to Step two As the antennae are sewn directly into
the edge. 04 meet at the top (the seam should face outward the seam it is advisable to sew over the joins
Step four Repeat this to make the other wing. on both sides) without turning either side over. twice to make sure they are well secured and to
Press to secure the fold. reduce the likelihood of them being pulled out.
PREPARING THE BODY PIECES Step three Position the folded end of the Step three Sew the other side of the front body
Step one Mark horizontal lines 2.5cm (1in) apart antennae on the RS of the front body at the dart to the back body in the same way. 10
across the WS of the front body starting at the at the top (the butterfly’s head) and tack into Step four Make small holes in the side face
markers and working downwards. place. 08 pieces where the eyes are marked (the smallest
Step two Sew along these lines to create the holes possible) and insert the shank of an eye in
appearance of segments for the body. 05 ATTACHING THE WINGS each hole. Fit the eyes in place according to the
Step three Sew the back body pieces together Step one With the front of a wing against the RS manufacturer’s instructions.
RS facing along the back from the top down for of the front body, position the open end of the Step five With the body still WS out, bring the
3cm (1¼in) to join the pieces. 06 wing so it overlaps the edge of the body by raw ends of the wings that protrude past the
5mm (¼in). The marker should line up with the seam allowance inside the body and sew
MAKING THE ANTENNAE point so that the top front wing will meet the together with a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance,
Step one Fold the antennae fabric strip in half finished body. This is the seam allowance width taking care not to catch any other fabric in the
lengthways with WS together and press. back from the edge of the body. seam. This creates internal shaping which pulls
Step two Open out again, then fold each long Step two Tack the wing in place, then repeat the wings into the body. 11
edge in to meet the central fold and press. with the other wing on the other side. 09
Step three Re-fold in half again and press along Step three Open the wings out and check that FINISHING OFF
the centre so that the strip is now a quarter they line up with one another. Adjust their Step one Turn the butterfly RS out and stuff
width of the original piece. 07 positions if necessary. the body.
Step four Using a short stitch length, sew the Step two Embroider a smile using black
strip together down the length. JOINING THE BODY stranded cotton onto the face. 12
Step one With RS together, line up the dart at Step three Hand sew the back of the body
ATTACHING THE ANTENNAE the top of the front body with the seam joining together using ladder stitch or similar.
Step one With RS together, sew the dart closed the back body pieces and from this central top
at the top of the front body and then the dart at point, sew the front body to the back body
the bottom. along one side, making sure the wing is out of
Step two Place the antennae piece lying the way in between the back body pieces
horizontally with the seam side at the bottom, during sewing.

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APRIL
SHOWERS
Whatever the weather, this softie
mobile is a super cute make and
perfect for the nursery.
WeathEr moBile
01 02
04 05
YOU WILL NEED For the umbrella: FINISHED SIZE

For the sun: Q6 assorted printed fabrics: approx QEach weather softie measures
QYellow fabric: approx 20x10cm 9x15cm (3½x6in) approx 12.5cm (5in) square.
(8x4in) QGrey or brown fabric: 5x15cm
QOrange felt: approx 25.5x 2.5cm (2x6in) NOTES
(10x5in) QBlue felt scrap: 5x3.5cm (2x1½in) QYou’ll find the templates for this
QBatting scraps: 4 pieces, each QBatting scraps: 6 pieces, approx mobile on pages 139-140.
measuring approx 10cm (4in) 10x12.5cm (4x5in) QUse 5mm (¼in) seam allowances
square unless otherwise noted.
QStranded cotton: black and pink For the kite: QPlease note this a mobile for display
Q2 different printed fabrics: approx only, not for play.
For the snow cloud: 12.5x20cm (5x8in)
QWhite fabric: approx 38x12.5cm QGreen felt scrap: approx 5x2.5cm
(15x5in) (2x1in)
QWhite felt: approx 11.5x3.5 cm QOrange felt scrap: approx 5x2.5cm
(4½x1½in) (2x1in)
QBatting scraps: 2 pieces, approx QBlue felt scrap: approx 5x2.5cm
19x12.5cm (7½x5in) (2x1in)
QBatting scrap: approx 12.5x18 cm
For the storm cloud: (5x7in)
QGrey fabric: approx 38x12.5cm
(15x5in) QPolyester toy filling
QYellow felt: approx 5x6.5cm QString: 75cm (30in) lengths
(2x2½in) QHanging device
QBatting: 2 pieces, approx QWater erasable pen or pencil
19x12.5cm (7½x5in) QBasic sewing kit

WeathEr moBile
03
06 07
Just a few simple
snips can make a
pretty snowflake.
CUTTING OUT Raindrops from the blue felt – cut 2.

Step one Copy and cut out all of the pattern pieces. For the kite:
The templates include seam allowances where Upper kites from each of the 2 printed fabrics
necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print – cut 2, to give 4 in total.
direction for marking and cutting out. When the Lower kites from each of the 2 printed fabrics
pattern specifies to cut two or more of a template, – cut 2, making 4 in total.
after marking out half of the pieces required, turn Kite bow from each of the felt scraps – cut 1, to
the template over to mark out the remaining half so give 3 in total.
that the pieces are cut as mirror images.
Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil draw MAKING THE SUN
out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side (WS) of Step one Layer the sun inner pieces over a piece
the fabric and cut out the following: of batting and quilt as desired. Trim away excess
For the sun: batting, and centre each behind a sun ray piece,
Sun inners from the yellow fabric – cut 2. both right sides (RS) up. Sew around the edge of
Sun rays from the yellow felt – cut 2. the circle to join them together.
For the snow cloud: Step two If using a water erasable pen, draw out
Clouds from the white fabric – cut 2. a face on one side of the sun as a guide before
Snowflakes from the white felt – cut 3, using embroidering the mouth and eye using black
pinking shears. thread and the cheeks using pink thread. 01
For the storm cloud: Step three Tie a knot in one end of a piece of
Clouds from the grey fabric – cut 2. string and layer against the wrong side (WS) of
Lightning bolt from the yellow felt – cut 1. your sun front. With the sun rays folded down
For the umbrella: out of the way, sew over the string 3-4 times so
Umbrella canopies from each ofthe 6 printed it is securely held. 02 The knot will act as a
fabrics – cut 2, to give 12 canopies in total. stopper, preventing the string from being
Umbrella handle from the grey or brown fabric pulled through the seam.
– cut 1. Step four Cut the two remaining batting scraps

WeathEr moBile
08 09
12
Leave enough thread

between the cloud
and the thunderbolt to
allow movement.
into rough circles slightly smaller than the sun Step three Fold a snowflake in half and MAKING THE UMBRELLA
inner. With WS together, place the front of the carefully cut 2 triangles from the fold at the Step one Select two matching fabric umbrella
sun on top of the back, with the circular pieces same distance from each side to give two canopy sections. With RS together, place one on
of batting unseen in the middle. Sew the front diamond shape cut-outs. Open the snowflake top of the other and then place both on top of a
and back of the sun together around the outer out and then make another fold at right angles piece of batting that is larger overall than the
edge. 03 Hold the string in place so that it exits to the first and cut 2 triangles from the fold as canopy pieces. Sew all three layers together
the sun at the top centre point, leaving a long before. 06 Repeat for the remaining two around the edge leaving an approx. 1in-1½in
tail. snowflakes. opening in the side near the top.
Step four Join two snowflakes in a chain of Step two Clip and trim the top corner, clip the
MAKING THE SNOW CLOUD stitching. Beginning at the edge of the first lower ones and clip V-shaped notches in the seam
Step one Layer each white cloud piece over a snowflake, sew across, backstitching at this end. allowances around the curves. 9 Turn the right
piece of batting and quilt as desired. Tack a Without trimming the thread, carry on stitching way out, tuck the raw edges of the opening inside
knotted piece of string to the right side of one across the next snowflake. Leave a long tail of to follow the line of the seam and press with a
cloud piece, at the notch. Make sure the long thread at the end before trimming. 07 Repeat warm iron. Topstitch around the sides close to the
end is going down over the cloud, with the knot with a new thread and the remaining snowflake edge to close the opening. Repeat for each pair of
extending over the seam allowance. Sew over to create the single snowflake chain. umbrella canopy sections.
the string 3-4 times to secure it, keeping your Step five Hand sew the single and pair of Step three With RS together, whip stitch the six
stitches within the seam allowance. 04 snowflakes to the bottom of the cloud using the umbrella canopy sections together along the
Step two Layer the cloud pieces RS together, leftover tails of thread and leaving a space sides from bottom to top so that they form
with the string pointing straight down away between the cloud and the top of the a bowl shape. 10 Pause before finishing
from the sides. Sew around the outer edges, snowflake, so they all hang freely. the last seam at the top so that a small opening
leaving a 3in opening in the bottom through remains.
which the string can hang freely. Clip the seam MAKING THE STORM CLOUD Step four Press under a 5mm (¼in) fold on one of
allowance at the internal corners and V-shaped Step one Follow the steps from the snow cloud the short sides of the umbrella handle. 11 RS
notches around the curves. 05 Turn the cloud to make the grey cloud. Attach the lightning together, fold the handle in half along the length
the right way out, stuff with polyester filling and bolt by chain stitching as you did the single and fit a piece of string inside so that approx 1in
sew the opening closed. snowflake. 08 protrudes from the folded end. Tie a knot in the

WeathEr moBile
10 11
13 14
string just before it enters the handle at the Fully secure the string
opposite end. 12 inside the umbrella
handle by sewing
Step five Sew across the unfolded end of the across the top of the
handle, sewing over the string 3-4 times so that it handle a few times.
is securely held and then along the length leaving
the folded end open. Clip the unfolded corner.
Step six Pull on the string protruding from the
folded end of the handle to ease it the right way
out. Before it is fully turned out, tie a knot in the
string that will rest inside the folded end of the
handle. 13
Step seven Snip away the excess string at the
closed bottom end of the umbrella handle, taking
care to avoid the fabric and roll the seam between
thumb and forefinger to ease the end of the string
inside the handle and out of sight. Do not pull on
the remaining long string, as it may come away
inside the handle now that the end is cut close to
the stitching.
Step eight Sew across the top of the handle to
close it, sewing backwards and forwards to fully
secure the string – the internal knot will act as a
stopper. From the bottom of the handle, hand
sew a line of running stitch up the folded side for
approx. 4cm (1½in). Pull on the thread to gather
the end into a curve, secure the thread and
cut off. 14

WeathEr moBile
15 16
Use the hanging thread
to attach the handle.
17 18
Use chain
piecing to attach
the bows.
Step nine Feed the end of the string in from the over the string 3-4 times to fully secure it. 17 Attach the bows
WS through the opening in the top of the Sew the kite halves together along the long edge. to the kite in the
same way as
umbrella canopy. Finish closing the top of the Step three RS together, place the kite back on top you did the
canopy and then sew the top of the handle to the of the quilted front and, taking care not to catch snowflakes.
inside centre of the canopy. 15 the string in the seam, sew around the sides
Step ten Sew up through the raindrops as before leaving an opening of approx. 5cm (2in) in one
with the lightning bolt and then hand sew each lower side. Clip and trim the seam allowance at
one to either side of the umbrella canopy, the corners and then turn the right way out. Fold
leaving a space of approx. 2.5cm (1in) between the the edges of the opening inside the kite and then
canopy and the top of the raindrop so that they topstitch around the sides close to the edge,
can hang freely. taking care not to catch the string, to close.
Step four Fold the kite bows in half lengthways
MAKING THE KITE and beginning in the centre on the folded side,
Step one Select an upper kite and lower kite piece sew through the first bow, reversing over the first
from different fabrics and RS together, sew couple of stitches to secure them. Carry on up
together along one side. Do the same for the through the bow and chain piece the remaining
opposite (mirror image) side, reversing the two two to it in the same way, leaving a long tail of
fabrics. 16 Sew the sides together down the centre thread attached. Sew the chain of bows using the
to create the kite front, press the seams open and leftover tail of thread to the bottom of the kite as
then place on top of the batting and quilt along before with the snowflakes, lightning bolt and
either side of each seam (this will help secure the raindrops. 18
seams when the ends are clipped later) .
Step two Make the two sides for the back of the FINISHING THE MOBILE
kite as for the front but do not join them down the Step one Tie each of the finished decorations to
centre yet. Secure a knotted piece of string to the your hanging device. Space them evenly, hanging
right side of one kite half, securing at the seam, so each softie at a different height and making sure
the long end is following along the seam. Sew the mobile is level.

summer
Bring a splash of sunshine to your toy making
with these seven adorable projects.
Which one will you make first?
50
55
61
65
69
77
73
Sew a budding ballerina their own
tiny dancer, complete with a cute
tutu made from twirly tulle.
BalleRina

BalleRina
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT From felt:

QFabric A: 50x50cm (20x20in), Step one Copy and cut out all the template Hair bun – cut 1.
for main body pieces. The templates include seam allowances Front hair – cut 1.
QFabric B: pink, 35x35cm (14x14in), where necessary and the arrows indicate the Back hair – cut 2.
for leotard and shoes print direction for marking and cutting out. The
Q Felt: 20x28cm (8x11in), for hair notches are used to match pieces when ATTACHING THE HAIR
Q Tulle: 28x60cm (11x24in) stitching together, so mark these too. When the Step one With right sides (RS) facing up,
QStranded cotton: black and pink pattern specifies to cut two or more of a position the front hair over the top of the face
QPolyester toy filling template, after marking out half of the pieces piece and stitch into place around the edges,
QMatching thread required, the template needs to be turned over taking the stitch lines up and down to ‘draw’ the
QWater erasable pen or pencil to mark out the remaining half so that the sweep of the hair.
QBasic sewing kit pieces are cut as mirror images. Step two Fix the back hair pieces to the back
Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil head in the same way. 01
FINISHED SIZE draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong
QApprox 40cm (16in) tall. side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following: ATTACHING THE EARS
From Fabric A: Step one Place two ear pieces RS facing and sew
NOTES Face – cut 1. together, leaving the straight edge open.
QYou’ll find the templates for this Ear – cut 4. Step two Clip V-shaped notches in the seam
toy on pages 140-141. Back head – cut 1. allowance around the curve and turn RS out.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Front body – cut 1. Tack the open edge closed.
unless otherwise stated. Arm – cut 4. Step three Repeat to make the other ear. 02
QAs the legs, arms and ears are Front leg – cut 2. Step four With RS together, close each of the
sewn directly into seams, sew over Back leg – cut 2. three darts in the face piece and then tack
the joins twice so they are well- From Fabric B: the ears on either side of the face where
secured to reduce the likelihood Front leotard – cut 2. marked. 03
of them being pulled out. Back body/leotard – cut 2.
Lower body/leotard – cut 1. MAKING THE UPPER BODY
Front shoe – cut 2. Step one Place the two front leotard pieces RS
Back shoe – cut 2. facing and sew together along the top V-
From tulle: shaped section.
Strips measuring 14x60cm (5½x24in) – cut 2. Step two Clip the seam allowance at the internal

BalleRina
04 05 06
10 11 12
corner, turn RS out and press. lengthways and press with a cool iron.
Step three With RS facing up, position the front Step two Place one on top of the other with the
leotard on top of the front body and tack folded edges together. Using a wide tacking
together from shoulder to shoulder. 04 stitch, sew together along the folded edge just
Step four Sew the back body/leotard pieces to inside the seam allowance.
the front body/leotard pieces with RS together Step three Knot the threads at one end so they
at the shoulders. 05 don’t work loose and pull on the bobbin thread
Step five Sew the back head to the upper at the opposite end to gather. Gather the top of
body/leotard section with RS together around the tutu evenly until it measures 20cm (8in). 10
the ‘neck’ section. 06
ATTACHING THE TUTU
MAKING THE ARMS Step one Tack the gathered edge of the tutu RS
Step one Place two mirror-image arm pieces RS together to the bottom of the upper body/
facing and sew together around the sides. leotard, adjusting it to fit. 11
Step two Clip V-shaped notches in the seam Step two Sew the lower body/leotard to the
allowance around the curves and clip into the upper body/leotard with RS together,
internal corners above and below the thumb. sandwiching the tutu in place.
Step three Turn RS out, stuff and tack closed. Step three Lightly press the seam upwards
Step four Repeat this to make the other arm. 07 towards the head and then topstitch along the
bottom of the upper body/leotard close to the
ATTACHING THE ARMS AND FACE seam to hold the seam allowance up and
Step one With RS together, fit an arm at the top therefore the tutu in a downward position. 12
of one side of the upper body section where
marked and sew the side of the body together, JOINING THE BACK SEAM
fixing the arm in place. Step one With RS facing sew the back of the
Step two Repeat for the other arm and side. 08 lower body/leotard together. Start at the
Step three Sew the face around the back head bottom and stitch upwards, finishing 1cm (/ in)
RS together, lining up the markers. 09 before the tutu seam. We've used two
Step two Bring the front and back of the lower pieces of tulle, but
MAKING THE TUTU body/leotard together. Pin then sew together you could add more
for extra twirl power!
Step one Fold the strips of tulle in half and leave the leg openings on either side. 13

BalleRina
13 14 15
16 17 18
MAKING THE LEGS Step four Sew the bun to the top of the back Up the cute-factor
Step one With RS together, sew a back shoe to head in a circle so that it is firmly fixed and then by swapping the
the bottom of a back leg and a front shoe to the go around a second time for extra security. hand-stitching for
a real ribbon bow.
bottom of a front leg. Secure the thread, take the needle through the
Step two Place the legs RS facing and sew bun and out then trim off the excess thread. 16
together, leaving the top open.
Step three Clip V-shaped notches in the seam FINISHING OFF
allowance around the curve and turn RS out. Step one Using pink stranded cotton, backstitch
Step four Stuff and then tack the end closed. the ‘ribbon fastenings’ on each front leg. 17
Step five Repeat to make the other leg. 14 Step two Draw facial features onto the face
using a water erasable pen.
ATTACHING THE LEGS Step three Backstitch the cheeks using pink
Step one With the leg inside the body, fit the stranded cotton.
top into one of the openings in the lower body/ Step four Work the mouth and eyelashes in
leotard so that the longer side of the leg is at backstitch and the eyes in satin stitch using
the outer folded side of the lower body and the black stranded cotton. 18
bottom shoe faces the back of the body. Step five Adjust any filling that has become
Step two Pin together and then sew the disturbed and then close up the back using
opening closed to fix the leg in place. ladder stitch or similar to finish.
Step three Repeat for the other leg. 15
FINISHING THE HEAD

Step one With RS facing, sew the back head
together, leaving an opening in the back of the
body for stuffing. Turn RS out and stuff.
Step two Work a running stitch around the hair
bun and pull on the thread to gather the bun
into a cup shape.
Step three Add stuffing into the centre and
draw the bun up fully, folding the seam
allowance to the inside, and secure the thread.

rattle
AND ROLL
Sew a duo of adorable animals to
entertain a little one, featuring the king
of the jungle and the cuddliest of bears.
AnimaL ratTles
01 02
05 06
YOU WILL NEED QStranded cotton: black and white

For the lion: QWater erasable pen or pencil
QYellow fabric: 25cm (10in) square, QBasic sewing kit
for head
QBlack fabric: 5cm (2in) square, FINISHED SIZE
for nose QApprox 20cm (8in) tall.
QOchre/brown fabric: 30x7.5cm
(12x3in), for mane NOTES
QPrinted fabric: 18cm (7in) square, QYou’ll find the templates for
for handle these toys on page 141.
QFusible web: 5cm (2in) square QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam
QOne rattle disc noise insert: allowance throughout
3cm (1¼in) diameter unless otherwise stated.
QA child under the age of
For the panda: three should never be left
QWhite fabric: approx 23cm (9in) unsupervised with this toy.
square, for head
QBlack fabric: approx. 11.5cm
(4½in) square, for ears, eye
patches and nose
QPrinted fabric: approx 18cm (7in)
square, for handle once you’ve mastered
QIron-on adhesive: approx the basics, why not
7.5cm (3in) square adapt these patterns
Q1 rattle disc noise insert:
approx 3cm (1¼in) diameter
for more animals?

AnimaL ratTles
03 04
07 08
CUTTING OUT THE LION fuse in place on the right side of the middle face,
Step one Copy and cut out all of the pattern pieces. using the placement marking as a guide. Sew
The templates include seam allowances where two lines of stitching along the top of the nose to
necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print secure 01
direction for marking and cutting out. When the
pattern specifies to cut two or more of a template, ASSEMBLING THE RATTLE
after marking out half of the pieces required, turn Step one RS together, place two ear pieces one
the template over to mark out the remaining half so on top of the other and sew around the sides,
that the pieces are cut as mirror images. leaving the bottom edge open. Clip V-shaped
Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil draw notches in the seam allowance around the curve.
out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side (WS) of 02 Turn the right side out and tack the bottom
the fabric and cut out the following: edge closed. 03 Repeat to make the other ear.
From yellow fabric: Step two RS together, close the dart at the top of
Middle face – cut 1. the middle face. Sew a side face piece to its
Side face – cut 2. corresponding side of the middle face. 04 Try
Back head – cut 2. to avoid sewing into the seam allowance at the
Ear – cut 4. bottom of the nose and finish 5mm (¼in) from
From ochre/brown fabric: the edge of the fabric. This will help to avoid it
Mane – cut 1, aligning the template on the fold. being lumpy or puckered when turned the right
From printed fabric: way. Repeat to attach the other side face piece.
Handle – cut 2. Step three RS together, sew the side face pieces
Step three Trace one nose template on the together below the nose, again avoiding sewing
paper side of the fusible web. Roughly cut out, into the seam allowance at the bottom of the
leaving a border. Following the manufacturer’s nose. 05
instructions, fuse to the reverse of the black Step four Tack the ears to the RS of the face in
fabric and cut along drawn line. between the seam and the notch. 06
Step four Peel the paper away from the nose and Step five RS together, place the back head pieces

AnimaL ratTles
09 10
13 14
one on top of the other and sew together along 2in opening on one side just below the head. 12 reverse of the fabric and cut out as follows,
the back. 07 Clip V-shaped notches in the seam allowance at remembering to cut out mirror image pieces as
Step six RS together, sew the bottom of the face the bottom of the handle. As the ears are sewn in the lion instructions:
to the top of a handle piece. Sew the bottom of directly into seams, it is advisable to backstitch From white fabric:
the back head to the remaining handle in the over the joins to make sure they are well Middle face – cut 1.
same way. 08 secured and reduce the likelihood of them Side face – cut 2.
Step seven RS together, fold the mane in half being pulled out. Back head – cut 2.
lengthways and close the darts at either side, Step eleven Stuff the rattle, fitting the rattle disc From black fabric:
tapering the top of the dart that finishes on in the centre of the head so that it is buried Ear – cut 4.
the fold. 09 within. Embroider a mouth using a length of From printed fabric:
Step eight Turn the mane the right way out and black stranded cotton (four-strand thickness). Handle – cut 2.
using a large stitch length on the sewing Step twelve Embroider black eyes using a Step two Follow steps 3-4 of the lion
machine, sew all along the bottom open edge colonial or French knot. Sew some internal instructions, also cutting out two appliqué
(through both layers). Tie the threads together at shaping stitches between the eyes by taking the eye patch pieces. Position the eye patches using
one end and pull lightly on one of the threads on needle back and forth between them (this can the template as a guide for placement, and
the opposite end to gather the fabric. 10 Evenly be done with the embroidery thread as part of then secure by sewing around the sides of
gather the bottom edge of the mane until it stitching the eyes) and pulling lightly on the each patch. 14
measures approx. 21.5cm (8 / in). thread to draw the eyes inward slightly, giving
Step nine RS together, start at the bottom of one the face more character. 13 ASSEMBLING THE RATTLE
side lion’s face (as the side of the mane is angled, Step thirteen Adjust any filling that was Step one Follow steps 1-6 and steps 10-12 of
locate the end of the seam allowance, not the disturbed whilst adding the facial features and the 'constructing the rattle' section of the
end of the raw edge, and match that to the seam then close the opening in the handle using lion instructions.
joining the handle and face). Tack the mane a ladder stitch. Step two Backstitch small circles in white
around the face, adjusting to fit so that it finishes embroidery thread for the panda’s eyes. 15
at the bottom of the face on the other side. 11 CUTTING OUT THE PANDA Step three Add internal shaping as for the lion
Step ten RS together, sew the front section of Step one Copy and cut out the pattern pieces. in step twelve, either with the white thread
the rattle to the back section, leaving an approx. Then draw out the pattern pieces onto the whilst embroidering the eyes, or separately

AnimaL ratTles
11 12
15
once they are done, using black thread through

the centre of the eyes. Also embroider the
mouth as shown.
Step four Adjust any filling that was disturbed
whilst adding the facial features and then close
the opening in the handle using a ladder stitch.
this project is great for

using up scraps of fabric
from your stash.

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GiraffE
shelf
safari
Sew a snuggle-sized version of
nature’s gentle giant for any
young adventurers in your life.
GiraffE
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT MAKING THE HORNS

QM
ain fabric: 50x75cm (20x30in), Step one Copy and cut out all the template Step one Place two horn pieces right sides (RS)
for the main body pieces. The templates include seam allowances facing and sew together, leaving the straight
QC
ontrast fabric: 30x30cm where necessary and the arrows indicate the print end open.
(12x12in), for the snout, front ears direction for marking and cutting out. The Step two Clip V-shaped notches in the seam
and feet notches are used to match pieces when stitching allowance around the curve and turn RS out.
QPair of 10mm plastic safety eyes together, so mark these as well. When the Step three Stuff lightly and tack the end closed.
QStranded cotton, black pattern specifies to cut two or more of a Step four Repeat to make the other horn. 01
QPolyester toy filling template, after marking out half of the pieces
QMatching thread required, the template needs to be turned over MAKING THE EARS
QWater erasable pen or pencil to mark out the remaining half so that the Step one Place a back ear and front ear RS facing
QBasic sewing kit pieces are cut as mirror images. and sew together around the sides, leaving the
Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil bottom straight edge open.
FINISHED SIZE draw around the pattern pieces onto the wrong Step two Clip the tip and turn RS out.
QApprox 32cm (12/ in) sitting. side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following: Step three Add a small amount of filling to the
From the main fabric: inside and make a fold in the front ear to flatten
NOTES Upper face – cut 2. it so that it is the same width as the back ear and
QYou’ll find the templates for this toy Lower face – cut 1. then tack the fold in place.
on page 142. Horn – cut 4. Step four Repeat to make the other ear, this
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Back ear – cut 2. time making the fold in the opposite direction
unless otherwise stated. Body – cut 2. to give two mirror-image ears. 02
QThis giraffe has been made using Neck – cut 2.
cotton fabric, so clipping internal Leg – cut 4. MAKING THE HEAD
curves and making notches around Base – cut 1. Step one Sew an upper snout to its
external curves is instructed, but Tail – cut 1. corresponding upper face piece with RS
this may not be required if using From the contrast fabric: together. Repeat for the other side. 03
stretchy plush fabric. Upper snout – cut 2. Step two Sew the upper snout and face sections
Lower snout – cut 1. RS together along the top, taking care to line up
Front ear – cut 2. the snout seams.
Foot – cut 4. Step three Clip V-shaped notches around the
curve of the upper snout. 04

GiraffE
04 05 06
10 11 12
Step four Tack the ears and horns to the RS of If you don't have safety
the upper face section so that the front ear is eyes in your stash, you can
stitch them onto the toy
against the RS of the face. 05
using black thread instead.
ASSEMBLING THE BODY

Step one Place the body pieces RS facing and
sew together from the top down along the back
of the neck, finishing the seam just after the
bend for the neck. Backstitch to secure the
seam here. 06
Step two Sew the upper face section around the
top of the body with RS together.
Step three Make the smallest holes possible
through which to allow the shank of the eye in
the side face pieces where marked.
Step four Fit the eyes in place according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. 07
Step five Sew the lower snout to the end of the
lower face with RS together. 08
Step six Place the neck pieces RS facing and sew
together along the front. 09
Step seven Sew the back of the lower face to the
top of the neck with RS together. 10
Step eight With RS together, line up the central
marker at the front of the lower snout with the
front seam joining the upper snout, and from
this point sew one side of the face together.
Step nine Still working on the same side of the
body/face, sew the neck and body together.
This seam can be completed in one go but
doing it in two parts makes it easier to achieve

GiraffE
13 14 15
16 17 18
an even finish as the seam allowances can be making sure that they are all facing in the Be sure to sew
positioned out of the way for sewing, and will correct direction. 15 the joins for the
ears, horns, legs
stop the finished seam looking bulky.
and tail securely.
Step ten Repeat to complete the other side of FINISHING THE GIRAFFE
the face and neck. 11 Step one Starting and finishing at the back
of the base and body, sew the base around the
MAKING THE LEGS bottom of the body. 16
Step one Sew the top of a foot to the bottom of Step two Sew the back of the body RS together
a leg with RS together. from just before the top of the tail so that it is
Step two Fold this joined piece in half and sew fully machine-sewn in place down to the base
together along the back, leaving an opening at to leave a 7cm (2¾in) opening in the back of the
the end of the foot. giraffe after the neck.
Step three Repeat for the other legs. 12 Step three Clip the seam allowance around the
Step four In the style of a ‘boxed corner’, bend at the lower back of the neck. 17
finger-press the seam at the back of the Step four Turn RS out and stuff.
foot open and bring the opening in the Step five Tie a knot in the end of the tail.
foot RS together so that this seam is in the Step six Following the seam around the lower
centre back. snout, embroider a smile onto the face using six
Step five Sew across the end of the foot. strands of stranded cotton.
Step six Turn the leg RS out then stuff, leaving Step seven Embroider nostrils on the snout. 18
approx 2cm (¾in) at the top empty. Step eight Adjust any filling that has become
Step seven Tack the top of the leg closed from disturbed and close the opening using ladder
front to back. stitch or similar to finish.
Step eight Repeat for the other legs. 13
ATTACHING THE LEGS AND TAIL

Step one Fold the tail in half lengthways with RS
together and sew along the side, leaving both
ends open. 14
Step two Tack the legs and tail to the RS of the
body in the positions marked on the templates,

SLEEPY
TED
With his very own quilted bed,
this tired and snuggly teddy is all
tucked up and ready for bedtime.
SleepY teddY
01 02 03
07 08 09

QBody fabric: 60x50cm (24x20in) Add an appliqué or Step one Copy and cut out all template pieces.
QFront ear fabric: 10x10cm (4x4in) embroidered initial to The templates include seam allowances
QNose fabric: 6x6cm (3x3in) your bear’s sleeping bag where necessary and the arrows indicate the
QQuilt fabric: 30x50cm (12x20in) to personalise it. print or pile direction of the fabric. When the
QBed fabric: 35x50cm (14x20in) pattern specifies to cut two or more of a
QPillow fabric: 9x20cm (4x8in) pattern piece, after marking out half of the
QWadding: 35x50cm (14x20in) pieces the template needs to be turned over
QTwo 9mm (/ in) plastic to mark out the remaining half so that the
safety eyes pieces are cut as mirror images.
QStranded cotton, black Step two Using an erasable pen or pencil draw
QPolyester toy filling around the pattern pieces onto the wrong
QMatching thread side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the
QWater erasable pen or pencil following:
QBasic sewing kit From the body fabric:
Ear back – cut 2.
FINISHED SIZE Middle face – cut 1.
QBear approx 28cm (11in) tall. Side face – cut 2.
Bed approx 19x30cm (8x12in). Back head – cut 2.
Arm – cut 2.
NOTES Leg – cut 2.
QYou’ll find the templates for this Tummy – cut 2.
toy on page 143. Back body – cut 2.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Tail – cut 1.
unless otherwise stated. From front ear fabric:
Ear front – cut 2.
From nose fabric:

SleepY teddY
04 05 06
10 11 12
Nose – cut 1. MAKING THE EARS remaining side together. Sew the centre front
From the quilt fabric: Step one Place a front and a back ear piece of the face together from the bottom of the
Quilt top 20x21.5cm (7/ x8½in) – cut 1. together with RS facing and sew together around nose to the neck edge.
Quilt back 24x26cm (9½x10¼in) – cut 1. the curve.
Quilt binding 22x6cm (8¾x2/ in) – cut 1. Step two If you are using cotton fabric, clip into MAKING THE BODY
From the bed fabric: internal curves and make notches around Step one With RS facing, fold one of the arm
Front bed 20x31cm (7/ x12¼in) – cut 1. external curves, avoiding your stitching. We have pieces in half and sew around the sides, leaving the
Back bed 20x32cm (7/ x12/ in) – cut 1. used stretchy plush fabric so clipping is not top edge open. Turn RS out and stuff, leaving the
From the pillow fabric: necessary. Turn RS out and tack the bottom edge top 2-3cm (1-1½in) empty. Tack the open end
20x9cm (7/ x3/ in) – cut 1. closed to keep the raw edges level. Repeat to closed. Repeat to make the other arm. Make both
From the wadding: make the other ear. With the front of the ear legs in the same way. 06
Bed 35x25cm (14x10/ in) – cut 1. against the RS of the face and the raw edges Step two With RS facing, sew the tummy pieces
Quilt 25x25cm (10/ x10/ in) – cut 1. aligned, tack into position where marked. 03 together along the centre front. With the legs
against the RS of the tummy, raw edges aligned
MAKING THE FACE MAKING THE HEAD and the seamed side of the legs facing each other,
Step one Sew the top of the nose to the Step one Place the back head pieces one on top tack them into position where marked. 07 With RS
bottom of the middle face with right sides (RS) of the other with RS facing. Sew together along facing, close the darts in each of the back body
together. Close the dart at the top of the the back from the top down for 4-5cm (1/ x2in) pieces. Place them one on top of the other and sew
middle face. 01 just to join them. 04 In the side face pieces, make together from the bottom up as far as the dart
Step two Sew one of the side face pieces to its the smallest holes possible for the shank of the only. Fold the tail in half and sew, leaving the end
corresponding side of the middle face with RS eye using the pattern marks for guidance. Fit the open, and place to one side. 08
together. Avoid sewing into the seam eyes according to the manufacturer’s Step three With RS facing, line up the central seams
allowance at the bottom of the nose and instructions. With RS together, line up the dart at at the bottom of the tummy and back body
instead finish 6mm (¼in) from the edge of the the top of the face with the central seam in the sections and, starting at this centre point, sew one
fabric – this will avoid any puckering when back head, and from this top point sew the face side of the body together, moving the leg on the
turned RS out. Repeat to attach the other side and back head together down one side. 05 opposite side out of the way during sewing.
face piece. 02 Step two Return to the top point and sew the Step four Return to the bottom centre and sew

SleepY teddY
13 14 15
16 17 18
the remaining side. 09 Check the arms are facing in Step two Bring the needle out at the lower inside either side. 14
the correct direction. Then with the underside of of one eye, secure the thread with a few small Step three With RS facing up, place the quilt on
the arms against the RS of the body and the raw stitches and then take the needle through the face top of the front bed so that the bottom edges are
edges aligned, tack the arms into position to the other eye and back to the first eye, and then aligned and tack around the sides and bottom of
between the notches. Sew the bottom of the head back again to the second. Don’t make the shaping the quilt to hold in place. 15
to the top of the body RS together. Line up the stitches too small as they may pull and damage
central seam in the bottom of the face with that at the fabric. Pull lightly on the thread to draw the ADDING THE PILLOW
the top of the main body and pin to ensure that eyes together slightly, to give the face more Step one Press 1cm (/ in) to the WS along the
the head will be straight. 10 character. Secure the thread, take the needle back bottom long side of the pillow. RS facing, position
into the head and out again at any point and then the top unfolded edge of the pillow along the
ADDING THE TAIL snip away the excess. 12 Adjust any filling that has top of the back bed with raw edges aligned. Tack
Step one Turn the tail RS out and fit in place, raw become disturbed and close the opening in the around the top and sides of the pillow to hold it
edges aligned, above the dart in the back body. back of the body using ladder stitch or similar. in place 16 .
Sew the tail in position, finishing the seam just Step two With the pillow side of the back bed
above the tail. Sew the remaining back of the MAKING THE BED against the front side of the quilt and the bottom
head together to leave a 6-7cm (2-3in) opening Step one Centre quilt wadding on top of quilt back edges aligned, pin then sew all around so that
in the back of the body. 11 As the ears, arms and WS, then place quilt top RS up on top of that. Tack along the top only the previously tacked pillow
legs are sewn directly into seams it is advisable the three layers together. Quilt as desired. Trim and the bed are being stitched together. Clip the
to sew over the joins to make sure they are well away excess fabric and wadding to the size of the bottom corners. 17 Turn the bed RS out so that
secured to reduce the likelihood of them being quilt top. Repeat to quilt the front bed, but this the pillow and quilt are on the front bed. Stuff the
pulled out. Turn the right way out and stuff. time just layer the wadding and front bed. 13 pillow and then pin the bottom folded edge in
Step two With WS together, press the binding in place and topstitch to close. 18
FINISHING OFF half lengthways. With the binding and quilt RS
Step one Using black embroidery thread (six- together and raw edges aligned, sew the
strand thickness), make a stitch down from the binding to the reverse side of the quilt. Fold the
nose and then add a W-shaped mouth. Sew some binding over to the quilt front and topstitch close
shaping between the eyes to bring them inwards. to the folded edge. Trim away the overhang at

mermaid
magic
Little ones will love dreaming up under-
the-sea stories and aquatic adventures
with these amazing creatures.
MermaidS
01 02 03
07 08 09

QCotton fabric: skin tone, 45x40cm QYou’ll find the templates for this Step one Copy and cut out all the template pieces.
(18x16in), for the skin toy on pages 144-145. The templates include seam allowances where
QPlush fabric: hair colour, 40x25cm QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print
(16x10in), for the hair unless otherwise stated. direction for marking and cutting out. The notches
QPlush fabric: blue or green, QIt is not always necessary to clip are used to match pieces when stitching together,
35x20cm (14x8in), for the top tail the seam allowance at corners and so mark these too. When the pattern specifies to
QPlush fabric: light blue,15x20cm around curves when using plush cut two or more of a template, after marking out
(6x8in), for the bottom tail fabric as the stretch in the fabric half of the pieces required, the template needs to
QFelt: blue or green, 27x10cm will often allow for them. Clipping be turned over to mark out the remaining half so
(11x4in), for the bikini and is only instructed where strictly that the pieces are cut as mirror images.
waistband necessary. Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil
QFelt scrap: pink, 3x3cm (1½x1½in), draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side
for the hair flower (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following:
Q2 safety eyes: black, 6mm (¼in) From the skin tone fabric:
diameter Ear – cut 4.
QStranded cotton: black, pink Face – cut 1 (template must face wrong way up for
and skin tone marking out, mark position of eyes).
QPolyester toy filling Chin – cut 1.
QWater erasable pen or pencil Back head – cut 1.
QBasic sewing kit Front body – cut 1.
Back body – cut 1.
FINISHED SIZE Arm – cut 4.
QApprox 40cm (16in) tall. From the hair colour fabric:
Hair – cut 2.
Hair fringe – cut 1 (template must face wrong way
up for marking out).

MermaidS
04 05 06
10 11 12
From the top tail fabric: hair RS out and tack the open end closed. seam allowance, to the RS of the face in between
Top front tail – cut 1. the corner and the notches. 06
Top back tail – cut 1. MAKING THE ARMS Step two With the underneath of the hair against
From the bottom tail fabric: Step one Place an arm piece RS together with the the RS of the back head, tack the hair around the
Bottom tail – cut 2. corresponding mirror-image arm piece and sew top of the back head inside the seam allowance. 07
From the felt: together, leaving the top open. Clip V-shaped Step three Sew the chin RS together to the
Shell bikini top – cut 1. notches in the curves and also clip the internal bottom of the face. Clip V-shaped notches
Waistband detail – cut 1. corners up to the stitching then turn RS out. around the curve, taking care to avoid the ears so
Hair flower – cut 1. Step two Stuff the arm, leaving the top 2cm (¾in) that you don’t snip into them. 08
empty, and then tack the top closed. 04 Repeat this
MAKING THE EARS to make the other arm. ASSEMBLING THE BODY
Step one Place two ear pieces right sides (RS) Step one Sew the chin with RS together to the
together and stitch around the curve. Cut ATTACHING THE BIKINI TOP front body, and then sew the back head to the
V-shaped notches at regular intervals around the Step one With the RS of the front body facing up, back body. 09 With RS together, close the dart in
curve and then turn RS out and tack the open end use the markings on the pattern template to the bottom of the front body. Tack the arms to the
closed. Repeat this to make the other ear in the position the shell bikini top on the front body RS of the front body in between the markers. 10
same way. 01 piece correctly.
Step two Stitch into place by sewing lines to MAKING THE TAIL
MAKING THE HAIR represent the grooves in a shell, working upwards Step one Sew one bottom tail RS together to the
Step one Fold a hair piece over RS together so that from the centre bottom. Leave the machine needle end of the top front tail and then clip the seam
the sides of the dart meet and sew the dart closed, in the fabric, lift the presser foot and pivot the allowance at the central corner. Sew the other
tapering the end. fabric to sew back down over the stitches each bottom tail to the top back tail in the same way.
Step two Repeat to close the darts in the other hair time. 05 11 Sew the front and back tail sections RS
piece and the back head piece. 02 Place the hair together. Clip the seam allowance at the internal
pieces RS together one on top of the other and MAKING THE HEAD corners and at either side of the seam joining the
sew around the sides. Clip the seam allowance at Step one With RS together, sew the hair fringe top and bottom tail. 12
the tip and around the internal curves. 03 Turn the across the top of the face. Tack the ears, inside the Step two Tack the waistband detail to the RS of

MermaidS
13 14 15
16 17 18
the top of the tail, taking care to ensure that the Step four Turn the mermaid RS out and stuff,
centre of the waistband lines up with the front leaving the bottom tail empty (the quilted lines
centre of the tail. Sew three lines through the tail will keep any filling out).
from the internal corners to the top of the
bottom tail. Trim away excess threads. 13 ADDING THE FEATURES
Step one Before closing the back, bring
JOINING TOGETHER a needle threaded with matching
Step one Line up the top of the seam in the back stranded cotton through the
head RS together with the notch at the top of the opening and out of the front body
face. From this top central point, sew down along at the top of the dart. Make a
one side of the face/head continuing down the colonial or French knot and then
side of the body. Return to the centre top and take the needle back
sew around the other side to join. Joining the through the stuffing and
front and back of the upper body in two then back through the
attempts in this way is easier and helps to ensure dart a couple of times,
that the face is fitted evenly. Sew over the arm pulling on the thread
joins again for added strength. 14 lightly to draw the knot
Step two Make the smallest hole possible inward to create a belly button. Secure
through which to allow the shank of the eye in the thread and trim away the excess. 16
the face where marked. If you are using a thin Step two Close the back of the mermaid
fabric, such as cotton, adding a small square of using ladder stitch.
the same fabric over the shank on the reverse of Step three Using a water erasable pen,
the face before adding the washer will provide draw a face on the mermaid and then
some extra support to the eye. Fit the eyes in embroider the features following the pen
place according to manufacturer’s instructions. lines. Sew the hair flower in place. 17 Sew
Step three Sew the bottom of the upper body the hair to the back head at intervals,
RS together to the top of the tail. 15 ruching it in places. 18

fin-tastic!
Stitch a pair of seahorse softies who are
sure to make a splash at playtime! Dive
into the tutorial to sew your own.
SeahoRses
01 02 03
06 07 08
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT along the fold line shown on the template and sew
QMain fabric: plush, 45x50cm Step one Copy and cut out all the template pieces. together along the unfolded side and top. Repeat
(18x20in) The templates include seam allowances where for the other face fin.
QContrast fabric: plush or cotton, necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print Step three Fold over and sew the back fin in the
35x35cm (14x14in) direction for marking and cutting out. The notches same way.
Q2 safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) are used to match pieces when stitching together, Step four Clip the seam allowance at each of the
diameter so mark these too. When the template specifies internal corners. Clip each of the corners and trim
QStranded cotton: black that you need to cut two or more of a template down the seam allowance at either side of the
QPolyester toy filling piece, after marking out half of the pieces required, tighter corners to remove some of the bulk. Take
QWater erasable pen or pencil the template needs to be turned over to mark out care not to cut any stitching when clipping the
QBasic sewing kit the remaining half so that the pieces are cut as seam allowance. 01
mirror images. Step five Turn each of the fins RS out. Sew evenly
FINISHED SIZE Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, draw spaced straight lines through each fin from the
QApprox 36cm (14in) tall. out the template pieces onto the wrong side (WS) bottom of the zigzag point to the raw edge. Stitch
of the fabric and cut out the following: four on the head fin, one on each face fin and two
NOTES From the main fabric: on the back fin.
QYou’ll find the templates for this toy Face – cut 2. Step six If you’re using cotton fabric for the fins,
on pages 145-146. Body – cut 2. add a little filling into each of the channels created
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance From the contrast fabric: by the stitched lines to give them some shape and
unless otherwise stated. Head fin – cut 2. then tack the open edge closed to hold it in place.
QIt is not always necessary to clip the Face fin – cut 2. If you’re using plush fabric to make the fins it is
seam allowance at corners and Back fin – cut 1. not necessary to add filling as the thickness of the
around curves when using plush Tummy – cut 2. fabric provides more shape, but it can be added
fabric, as the stretch in the fabric will if preferred. 02
often allow for this. Clipping is only MAKING THE FINS
instructed where necessary. You can use a contrasting plush fabric or cotton MAKING THE FACE
fabric to make the fins and tummy. Step one With RS facing, sew the dart together in
Step one Place the two head fin pieces right sides one face piece.
(RS) facing and sew together along the top pointed Step two Place a face fin with the side seam
edge, leaving the curved edge open. facing downwards in between the marker on the
Step two Fold one face fin in half with RS together template and the dart on the RS of the face and

SeahoRses
04 05 Fins add colour and
character – and help
your new plushie pal
to swim, of course!
09 10
tack into place. 03 presser foot to pivot the fabric every so often to position, sew the central segment of the fin to the
Step three Repeat to make a dart and tack a fin on keep the seam on track. back of the body on either side, approx 5mm (¼in)
the other face piece. Step four If you’re using cotton fabric for the out from the seam that joins the two back pieces in
stomach, clip V-shaped notches at regular intervals each direction. 10
JOINING ON THE TUMMY in the seam allowance around the front of the
Step one With RS together, sew a tummy piece stomach to help it to lay flat.
to its corresponding body piece around the
curve at the front by matching the notches on FILLING THE SEAHORSE
these pieces. 04 Step one Turn the seahorse RS out, stuff with
Step two Repeat to stitch the other tummy piece to polyester filling and then hand-sew the opening
the other body piece. closed using ladder stitch.
Step two Sew some shaping between the eyes by
ATTACHING THE FACE bringing the needle out at the inside of one eye,
Step one With RS together, sew a face piece to its securing the thread with a few small stitches. Take it
corresponding body piece. 05 back through the face to the other eye, back to the
Step two Repeat to stitch the other face piece to the first eye and then back again to the second. Don’t
other body piece. make the shaping stitches too small as they may
Step three Make the smallest hole possible to allow pull and damage the fabric.
the shank of the eye through each of the face Step three Pull lightly on the thread to draw the
pieces where marked. Fit the eyes in place eyes together slightly. This will give the face
following the manufacturer’s instructions. a little more character and definition, and you can
experiment to get the desired effect.
ASSEMBLING THE SEAHORSE Step four Secure the thread, take the needle back
Step one Tack the head fin and back fin to the RS of into the head and out again at any point and then
one side of the seahorse body pieces in between snip away the excess. 08
the notches. 06
Step two Place the two seahorse halves RS facing FINISHING OFF
and sew together, leaving a turning gap of 8cm Step one Using six strands of black stranded cotton,
(3in) in the back just below the back fin. 07 stitch a mouth and eyelashes over each eye,
Step three When you’re sewing around the curled referring to the photo for the placement. 09
tail, stop with the needle in the fabric and lift the Step two To hold the head fin in an upright

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digital
love
Batteries aren't included (or needed!)
in this plushie pair of romantic robots,
made from super-soft fleece.
RobotS
01 02 03
07 08 09

QFleece fabric: silvery grey, QYou’ll find the templates for this Step one Copy and cut out the template pieces.
50x90cm (20x35in) toy on pages 146-147. They all include seam allowances and the arrows
QFleece fabric: yellow, 35x45cm QUse a seam allowance of 5mm indicate the pile direction for marking and
(14x18in) (¼in) unless otherwise stated. cutting out. When the pattern specifies to cut
QFelt: white, 20x12cm (8x5in) two or more of a template, after marking out half
QCotton fabric A: 7x10cm (2¾x4in), of the pieces required the template needs to be
colour 1 for keypad Metallic fabrics turned over to mark out the remaining half so
QCotton Fabric B: 7x10cm (2¾x4in), would be ideal for that the pieces are cut as mirror images.
colour 2 for keypad
this futuristic pair! Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil,
QCotton Fabric C: 6x9cm (3x4in), for draw out all of the pattern pieces onto the
side control panel reverse of the fabric and cut out as follows:
QCotton Fabric D: 11x6cm (5x3in), From the grey fleece:
for bottom control panel Front/back head: cut one from template and
QSafety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) x 2 one piece that is 14x16cm (5½x6/ in) which will
QMetal teeth zip: white 15cm (6in) be trimmed to size later.
QPolyester toy filling Bottom head – cut 1.
QStranded cotton: black and extra Side and top head – cut 1.
colours for detailing Limb – cut 4.
QWater erasable pen or pencil Top/bottom front – cut 2.
QBasic sewing kit Side front – cut 2.
Top body – cut 1.
FINISHED SIZE Side and back body – cut 2.
QApprox 35cm (14in) from bottom Bottom body – cut 2.
of body to tip of aerial. From the yellow fleece:
Aerial – cut 2.
Hand – cut 2.

RobotS
04 05 06
10 11 12
Foot – cut 2. mark out and cut the front head piece to size. it is the right way out and then with RS together
From the white felt: Mark the position of the eyes on the eye patch. sew the back head to the bottom head and
Eye patch – cut 1. 03 Place the zip horizontally RS up across the front around the side and top head piece. 08
From Fabrics A and B: head just below the eye patch so they extend
Keypad on control panel – cut 2 of each. beyond the sides of the felt. Pin and sew in place MAKING THE ARMS AND LEGS
From Fabric C: along either side close to the edge. 04 Step one With RS together fold a limb piece in
Side control panel – cut 1. Step three Place the bottom head on top of the half lengthways. Sew together down the length
From Fabric D: top body with RS together so that the and then turn it RS out. Fold a hand piece over
Bottom control panel – cut 1. rectangular openings on each are aligned. Sew RS together and sew from the bottom of the
together around the rectangular opening. Snip folded edge around the hand, finishing at the
MAKING THE HEAD the hole inside the opening. 05 With RS outside top of the second pincer. Clip the two
Step one With right sides (RS) together place together, sew the bottom edge of the face to internal corners. With RS together, fit one end of
one aerial on top of the other and sew together, one of the longer sides of the bottom head. 06 the limb so that the raw edges are together at the
leaving the bottom open. Clip the seam Open the zip to about halfway, avoiding sewing top of the hand and sew in place. Turn the hand RS
allowance at the internal corner then turn RS the zipper tab outside of the head. Beginning at out and then repeat for the remaining arm. 09
out. 01 Snip the aerial opening on the side and the back of the bottom head and with RS Step two Fold and sew a limb piece in half as for
top of the head piece as marked on the together, sew one end of the side and top head the arm. Cut along the dart line for a foot piece
template. With RS together, fit the open end of piece along one short side of the bottom head, then with RS together fold the foot over. Fit one
the aerial through the opening in the middle of around the front head and back along the other end of the limb, raw edges together, into the top
the side and top head piece and sew, tapering short side of the bottom head. 07 of the central dart at the back of the foot and sew
both ends of the seam. 02 Step four Keeping the holes to the smallest size the dart closed, tapering the top end. Stitch
Step two With RS up, place the felt eye patch on possible through which to fit the shanks of the together each of the two remaining darts at either
top of the larger front/back head piece just safety eyes, carefully make two holes through side of the back of the foot. Sew one side of the
above the centre and sew around the inside the eye patch and fleece behind it where foot together starting at the top of the angled
edge of the eye patch (approx 3mm (/ in) to fix marked. Fit the safety eyes following the section; leave the needle down through the fabric
it in place). Use the front/back head template to manufacturer’s instructions. Push the top body at the bottom of this slope, lift the presser foot
get the correct position of the eye patch and piece through the rectangular opening so that and pivot the fabric into place before sewing

RobotS
13 14 15
16 17 18
along the side finishing at the side back dart. on the side control panel, embellish it with Turn the robot RS out and stuff the body, hands
Repeat to close the other side of the foot and then coloured stitches and French knots. 13 and feet. Close each opening by hand using
turn the foot RS out. Repeat to make the ladder stitch or similar. 18
remaining leg. 10 ASSEMBLING THE ROBOT
Step one Trim away the excess felt from around
MAKING THE CONTROL PANEL the control panel. With RS together, sew a
Step one With RS together, sew the keypad top/bottom front piece to the top and bottom
strips together along the length, alternating the of the control panel before attaching each side
colours. Press the seams open and, at right front pieces.
angles to the seams, cut into three equally sized Step two Sew a side and back body to each of the
strips. 11 Turn the middle strip around so that front sides and then tack an arm in place
the colours alternate to give a chequerboard between the markers on each side so that the
effect and sew together along the newly cut hands are at right angles to the body and the
edges. With RS together, sew the side control opening in the hand is against the right side. 14
panel to one longer side of the keypad and then Step three Tack the legs onto a bottom body
sew the bottom control panel piece across the piece on the RS in between the markers,
bottom of both. 12 ensuring that they are both pointing the same
Step two Place the control panel on top of a way. With RS together, sew the bottom body
piece of white felt that is overall larger and sew pieces together along the middle, fixing the legs
two zigzag lines in coloured thread across the in place. 15
bottom of the keypad, alternating the stitch Step four Starting at the centre back and with
width and depth during sewing. Tack the control the RS together, sew the top body around the
panel to the felt just inside the edge. Use a water side and back, across the front and then around
erasable pen to mark the seam allowances the remaining side and back of the robot. 16
around the sides then draw out numbers on the In the same way as for the top body, attach the
keypad and backstitch over them by hand with bottom body, checking before sewing that the
black embroidery thread. If using a plain fabric feet will be pointing in the right direction. 17

Autumn
You’re sure to fall for these cuties, which include
a pair of soft pups and patchwork owls with a secret
pocket. And who can resist a kawaii-style pencil?
95
82
91
99 87
103
107
Sew this adorable set, inspired by
traditional Russian nesting dolls – the mini
RussiAn dollS

RussiAn dollS
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED FINISHED SIZE CUTTING OUT

For the large doll: QApprox 21cm (8¼in) tall. Step one Copy and cut out all the template
QPrinted cotton fabric A: 55x20cm pieces. They all include seam allowances and the
(22x8in), for the headscarf NOTES arrows indicate the pile direction for marking
QPrinted cotton fabric B: 22x12cm QYou’ll find the templates for this and cutting out. When the pattern specifies to
(9x5in), for the front body toy on pages 148-149. cut two or more of a template, after marking
QPrinted cotton fabric C: 50x30cm QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance out half of the pieces, the template needs to be
(20x12in), for the main body unless otherwise stated.. turned over to mark out the remaining half so
QCotton fabric: 28x15cm (11x6in), that the pieces are cut as mirror images.
for the face Step two Draw the pattern pieces onto the
QFelt black or brown: 20x8cm wrong side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the
(8x3in), for the hair following:
For the mini doll: From fabric A:
QPrinted cotton fabric D: 10x14cm Front headscarf – cut 2.
(4x5in), for the top body Back headscarf – cut 2.
QPrinted cotton fabric E: 18x7cm From fabric B:
(7x3in), for the main body Top front body – cut 1.
QCotton fabric: 10x7cm (4x3in), for From fabric C:
the face Bottom front body – cut 1.
QFusible web: 10x7cm (4x3in) Back body – cut 2.
QPolyester toy filling Inner pocket cover – cut 1.
QStranded cotton: black, red, pink, Inner pocket lining – cut 2.
colour to match mini doll Base – cut 1.
headscarf From the cotton fabric:
QWater erasable pen or pencil Face – cut 1.
QBasic sewing kit From the felt:
Hair – cut 1.

RussiAn dollS
04 05 06
10 11 12
MAKING THE LARGE DOLL along this edge. The pocket cover is now properly notches in the seam allowance around the
ATTACHING THE HAIR fixed in place. 06 Repeat this for the RS of the back curve. With RS together, sew the bottom edge
Step one Position the hair right side (RS) up on body and inner pocket lining (but this time of the back headscarf to the top edge of the
the top of the face RS up and sew it into without an inner pocket cover). Place the inner back body. 10 Pin the front headscarf to the
position using the stitch lines shown in the pocket lining pieces RS together. Move inner back headscarf RS together, lining up the
photo. This is shown from the WS so you can see pocket cover and seam allowances out of the way central markers at the top and matching the
the stitching lines more clearly. Trim away any and sew the inner pocket lining pieces together bottom edges. Tack front headscarf in place. 11
excess hair reaching out beyond the face. 01 around the three remaining open sides. 07
Step three Fold the inner pocket cover over the ASSEMBLING THE BODY
MAKING THE FACE AND BODY opening. On the other side pull apart the sides of Step one With RS together, line up the central
Step one With RS together, close the three darts the inner pocket lining, finger-press open the dart at the top of the face with the central seam
in the face piece tapering the ends. 02 With RS seam at one end and flatten it so that the seam is at the top of the back headscarf, and from this
together, close the dart in the top front body in line with the pocket opening. Pin in place and top point sew one side of the doll together.
piece tapering the end. Sew the top front body tack securely across the short end of the pocket Return to the top point and sew the remaining
to the bottom front body, matching the central cover and then repeat for the remaining end. This side together. 12
markers. 03 With RS together, sew the face to will hold the cover in place and the lining neatly Step two With RS together, line up the marker at
the top front body. 04 out of the way for later. 08 the back of the base with the pocket opening
and sew the base to the bottom of the doll’s
MAKING THE POCKET MAKING THE HEADSCARF body, leaving a quarter open. Make sure that
Step one With WS together, press the inner pocket Step one Place the front headscarf pieces RS the end of the pocket cover is sewn into the
cover in half lengthways. With RS together and facing and sew together around the front and seam and not left as part of the opening. 13
matching raw edges, position the inner pocket sides, leaving the top edge open. Clip away the
cover along the long straight side of left-side back seam allowance and then clip and notch the STUFFING THE DOLL
body piece and tack in place. 05 curves. 09 Turn the front headscarf RS out. Step one Carefully turn the doll RS out, folding
Step two With RS together, position one long side Step two Place the back headscarf pieces RS the front headscarf over the face, and stuff. Put
of the inner pocket lining against the long straight facing and sew together along one side (the your hand inside the inner pocket, straighten it
side of the left side back body and sew together side without the markers). Clip V-shaped out and make room for it within the stuffing.

RussiAn dollS
13 14 15
16 17 18
Close the opening in the bottom of the doll From the face fabric: the large doll as shown. 18
using ladder stitch or similar. Top mini doll – cut 1. Step two Close the opening in the side using
ladder stitch. Fit the mini doll in the internal
FINISHING OFF MAKING THE HEAD pocket in the back of the large doll to finish.
Step one Cross over the ends of the headscarf Step one Place the face piece RS up. Remove the
and sew them together in the centre. Gather the paper backing from the headscarf and press it
crossover section and wrap with thread. RS up on top. Work a running stitch 3mm (/ in)
Step two Sew the back of the crossover section outside the headscarf opening using
to the body and secure the thread. 14 coordinating stranded cotton.
Step three Draw eyes, cheeks and a mouth onto
the doll, referring to the photo for positioning. ASSEMBLING THE BODY
Using four strands of stranded cotton, stitch the Step one With RS together, sew each top piece to
features following the drawn lines. 15 a bottom piece. 16 Place the front and back Keep your mini
MAKING THE MINI DOLL
sections RS together and sew around the edge,
leaving an 3cm (1¼in) opening in one side. Clip
matryoshka in the larger
CUTTING OUT V-shaped notches around the curve in the top of
doll’s back pocket.
Step one Trace the headscarf onto the paper the doll.
side of the fusible web and cut out roughly Step two With the seams open, bring the side
outside the drawn lines. Place the cut out shape and bottom seams together on one bottom
paper side up on the WS of fabric D and press corner so that they line up. Sew across this corner
into place. Cut along the drawn lines. Draw out 5mm (¼in) from the tip end of the seam to box
the remaining pattern pieces onto the WS of the the corner. Repeat this in the other corner. 17
fabric and cut out:
From Fabric D: FINISHING OFF
Top mini doll – cut 1 Step one Turn the doll RS out and stuff.
From Fabric E: Embroider the facial features and hair using two
Bottom mini doll – cut 2. strands of stranded cotton to match those on

puppy
love
This playful pair of pooches can’t wait
to go for walkies with their new owner!
Learn how to sew your own perfect pups.
PuppieS
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED Why not embroider CUTTING OUT

QPlush fabric: light brown, 50x75cm a name and attach it Step one Copy and cut out all the template
(20x30in) to the collar as a tag? pieces. The templates include the seam
QPlush fabric: brown, 40x40cm allowances where necessary and the arrows
(16x16in) indicate the print direction for marking and
QPlush fabric: black, 8x8cm cutting out. The notches are used to match
(3½x3½in) square, for nose pieces when stitching together, so mark these
QPrinted cotton fabric: 25x6cm too. When the pattern specifies to cut two or
(10x3in), for collar more of a template, after marking out half of the
QLight/medium weight interfacing: pieces required, the template needs to be turned
25x6cm (10x3in) over to mark out the remaining half so that the
QPair of 12mm black plastic safety pieces are cut as mirror images.
eyes Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil,
QPolyester toy filling draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong
QStranded cotton: black side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the
QWater erasable pen or pencil following pieces:
QBasic sewing kit From the light brown plush fabric:
Middle face – cut 1.
FINISHED SIZE Side face – cut 2.
QApprox 28cm (11in) from nose to Chin – cut 1.
back of body. Back head – cut 2.
Side body – cut 2.
NOTES Base – cut 1.
QYou’ll find the templates for this toy Leg – cut 2.
on pages 149-150. From the brown plush fabric:
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Under ear – cut 2. Note: it’s easier to leave the
unless otherwise stated. diamond-shaped dart uncut as long as it is

PuppieS
04 05 06
10 11 12
marked on the piece. MAKING THE HEAD Step eight With RS together, line up the dart at
Top ear – cut 2. Step one With RS together, close the dart in the the top of the face with the central seam in the
Body ‘spot’ – cut 2. top of the middle face. back head and from this top point sew the face
Leg – cut 2. Step two With RS together, sew a side face piece and back head together down one side. Return
Tail – cut 2. to its corresponding side of the middle face from to the top point and sew the remaining side
From the black plush fabric: the nose end up to the top of the head. Repeat together. Sewing the seam in two parts in this
Nose – cut 1. this to attach other side face piece in same way. 02 way is easier and helps to ensure a more
From the printed cotton: Step three With RS together, sew the nose around even finish. 07
Collar – cut 1. the bottom of the face. 03
From the interfacing: Step four With RS together, sew the chin piece MAKING THE LEGS
Collar – cut 1. around the bottom front of the face, pausing at Step one Fold one leg over with RS facing and
the side corners with the needle down through sew together down the side and around the
MAKING THE EARS the fabric. Lift the presser foot and clip the corner bottom, tapering the end of the seam.
As the legs, ears and tail are sewn directly into on the side face only and pivot the fabrics into Step two Turn RS out and stuff, leaving the top
seams it is advisable to sew over the joins. This position to continue sewing. 04 2cm (¾in) empty, and tack the end closed.
will make sure they are well secured and reduce Step five With the underside of the ear against Repeat to make the remaining legs. 08
the likelihood of them being pulled out. the RS of the face, tack the ears into position
Step one With right sides (RS) together, select where marked. 05 MAKING THE TAIL
an under ear piece and fold the diamond-shaped Step six Close the dart in the centre of the chin, Step one Place the tail pieces RS facing then sew
dart over horizontally. Sew it together to shape. tapering the end. Make the small holes to push together, leaving the bottom end open.
Step two Place the under ear piece on top of its through the shank of the safety eye in the side Step two Clip the seam allowance at the tip of
corresponding top ear and sew together around face pieces where marked. Fit the eyes in place the tail and turn RS out. Lightly stuff and tack the
the sides, leaving the top end open. according to the manufacturer’s instructions. end closed. 09
Step three Turn RS out and tack the open end Step seven Place the back head pieces RS facing
closed. Repeat to make the other ear. 01 and sew together from the top down along the MAKING THE BACK SPOT
back of the head for approx 5cm (2in) just to Step one With RS together, sew a back spot to its
join them. 06 corresponding side body piece. There are

PuppieS
13 14 15
16 17 18
markers on both the spot and the body piece to that the tail is fixed in the seam. Leave an 8cm mouth to the bottom of the nose, using black
ensure you place them correctly. (3in) opening in the back of the body. 14 stranded cotton.
Step two Repeat this to attach the other spot on Step eight Sew the underside of the ears to the
the other side body piece. 10 ADDING THE FEATURES face to hold them in position. 16
Step one Turn the dog RS out and stuff the head
MAKING THE BODY and part of the body. MAKING THE COLLAR
Step one Place the side body pieces RS facing Step two Sew some shaping though the face to Step one Press the glue side of the interfacing
and sew together along the front. give more of a smile and ‘cheek’ by bringing the to the wrong side (WS) of the collar to hold it
Step two With the legs against the RS of the needle out at the corner of the mouth, securing firmly in place.
body, tack the legs in position, alternating the the thread with a few small stitches and then Step two With WS together, fold the collar in half
colours and with the seamed sides facing the taking the needle up to the eye above and back lengthways and press.
back of the body. 11 down again. Take care not to make the shaping Step three Open the collar out and press each
Step three With RS together, line up the front stitches too small as they may pull and damage side in to meet the centre fold and then refold
centre marker on the base with the front seam the fabric to the corner of the mouth. along the centre again and press.
joining the side body pieces, and from this point Step three Pull lightly on the thread to bring the Step four Open the collar out again and, with
sew one side of the base to one side of the body. eye down a little and the mouth up, giving the RS together, sew the short ends together to
Step four Return to the front centre point and face a little more character, and repeat to make form a circle. 17
sew the other side of the base to the body. 12 sure the shaping holds. Step five Finger press the seam open and fold
Step four To secure the thread, take the needle the collar back up along the pressed folds.
ATTACHING THE HEAD TO THE BODY back into the head and out again at any point Step six Sew the open edge together close to
Step one With RS together, sew the head to the and then snip away the excess. the edge to seal. 18
body, taking care to line up the seams and Step five Repeat this to make the shaping Step seven Fit the collar around the dog’s neck,
markers. Tack the tail to the RS of one of the back stitches on the other side of the face. re-adjust the stuffing inside and sew the
spots in between the markers, making sure that Step six Sew shaping stitches between the eyes opening closed using ladder stitch.
the tail is facing the right way. 13 in the same way. 15
Step two With RS together, sew the back of the Step seven Embroider a mouth following the
head together fully and the back of the body so seams, and a line from the centre of the

what
a hoot
We’ve gone all of a twitter for
these multi-coloured owl softies,
complete with a cute pocket!
Owls
01 02 03
Ensure you
cut mirror image
pieces for
the wings.
07 08 09

QFabric A: 35.5cm (14in) square, Step one Copy and cut out all the template
for the body pieces. Arrows on the pattern pieces indicate
QFabric B: 23cm (9in) square, pattern/pile direction for marking and cutting
for the wings and tail out. When the pattern specifies to cut two or
QFabric C: 15x18cm (6x7in), for more of a pattern piece, after marking out half
the pocket of the pieces required the template needs to be
QWhite
felt: 10x .5cm (4x3in), turned over to mark out the remaining half so
for the eye patch that the pieces are cut as mirror images.
QYellow felt: 2.5cm (1in) square, Step two Using a water erasable pen, draw
for the beak around the pattern pieces onto the wrong side
QIron-on adhesive: 12.5x7.5cm (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following:
(5x3in) From Fabric A:
QBatting scraps Front body – cut 1.
QPolyester toy filling Side body – cut 2.
QStranded cotton: black Base – cut 1.
QWater erasable pen or pencil From Fabric B:
QBasic sewing kit Wing – cut 4.
Tail – cut 2.
FINISHED SIZE From Fabric C:
QApprox 12.5cm (5in) tall. Pocket – cut 2.
NOTES SEWING THE PIECES

QYou’ll find the template for this toy Step one First place two mirror-image wing
on page 150. pieces one on top of the other on top of a piece
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance of batting that is larger overall than the wing.
unless otherwise stated. Sew all three layers together around the edge of

Owls
04 05 06
Secure along the top

only, the sides are
stitched with the body.
10 11 12
se before
Line up the front with the ba s.
sewing the remaining edge
the wing (leave the straight side open) and trim

away the excess batting. Clip V-shaped notches
in the seam allowance around the curves, clip the
they may be small, but
seam allowance at the internal corner and lastly
clip the corner. 01 Turn the right way out and
jo's owls are mightily
repeat for the opposite wing. full of personality
Step two Make the tail in the same way as the – twit twoo!
wings by placing the tail pieces right side (RS)
together one on top of the other on top of a
piece of batting. Sew around the edges, trim the
excess batting, clip the seam allowance at the
internal corners and then clip the corners. 02
Turn the right way out.
Step three Lightly press the wings and the tail
with a cool iron and then quilt as shown. 03
Step four Place one pocket piece right side up,
on top of a piece of batting that's larger overall
than the pocket and quilt as shown. Trim away
the excess batting from around the sides of the
pocket and then RS together place the two
pocket pieces together. Sew along the top edge
to join them. 04 Turn the right way out and then These owls are perfect
topstitch along the top edge. Tack the bottom for cuddles as well as being
edges to securely align the front and back of
a great hiding place for
the pocket.
Step five Trace out the eye patch onto the
precious trinkets .
backing paper of some iron-on adhesive, cut

Owls
wavy or scalloped? have

fun adding the quilting
detail onto the front
pocket of the owl.
out roughly and following the manufacturer’s the outside of the eye patch and then sew around the beak with straight stitch. 05
instructions, iron onto the reverse of the white around the inside edge of the patch with Step seven Mark the position of the eyes with a
felt. Cut the eye patch out, peel off the backing zigzag stitch. water erasable pen. Embroider by backstitching
paper and press in place on the front body 6cm Step six Back the beak with iron-on adhesive a small circle in black cotton and filling it in. 06
(2½in) up from the bottom edge, taking care in the same way as the eye patch, cut out and Step eight RS together pin a wing in place in the
not to scorch the felt (press through a cloth if press the beak in place on the eye patch, again long dart in a side body piece and then sew the
preferred). Sew a line of straight stitch around taking care not to scorch the felt. Sew twice dart together capturing the wing in place and
tapering the end of the dart at the top. 07
Repeat for the other side.
You can make a Step nine Right sides up, tack the tail in place at
whole parliament the back of the base. 08
of owl softies to sit
on your shelf! Step ten Right sides up, tack the pocket to the
front body along the sides and the bottom. 09
Step eleven Close the small darts in each of the
side body pieces. With the two side body pieces
RST, partly sew together from the top along the
back, stopping approx 2.5cm (1in) after the darts.
10 Close the dart at the top of the front body,
tapering the end. RS together line up the dart in

the front body with the central seam joining the
side body pieces and from this top point, sew
the front body to one side from the top to the
bottom edge. 11
Step twelve Return to the top point and sew
the other side of the body together. Clip
V-shaped notches in the seam allowance
around the curves.
Step thirteen RS together line up the marker at
the centre of the front body to that on the
centre front of the base piece and from this
point sew the base to the body around one side,
finishing at the centre of the tail. 12 Return to
the front centre point and sew the remaining
side. Turn the owl the right way out, stuff and
close along the back using ladder stitch or
similar to finish.

RACCOON
buddy
Meet your new furry friend – a sweet
raccoon softie, made in plush fabric
for maximum huggability!
RaccooN
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT Eyebrow –cut 2.

QGrey plush fabric: 50x75cm Step one Copy and cut out all the pattern Tail stripe – cut 2.
(20x30in) pieces. Seam allowances are included and the From the black fabric:
QWhite plush fabric: 25x25cm arrows indicate the direction of the pile. The Ear – cut 2.
(10x10in) notches are used to match pieces when Nose – cut 1.
QBlack plush fabric: 22x22cm stitching together so mark these too. When the Eye patch – cut 2.
(9x9in) template specifies to cut more than one of a Tail stripe – cut 3.
QTwo safety eyes: black, pattern piece, remember that after marking out
12mm (½in) half of the pieces required the template needs MAKING THE FACE AND HEAD
QPolyester toy filling to be turned over to mark out the remaining Step one Divide the pieces that make up the
QStranded cotton: black half so that the pieces are cut as mirror images. face into two piles, one for the left side and one
QWater erasable pen or pencil Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil for the right. Select one pile, and with right
QBasic sewing kit trace around all of the pattern pieces onto the sides (RS) together sew the back of the snout to
wrong side (WS) of the fabrics and cut out the front of the eye patch and then the eyebrow
FINISHED SIZE the following. to the back of the eye patch to make the ‘inner
QApprox 33cm (13in) from toe to tip From the grey fabric: face’. Repeat for the opposite side. 01
of ear. Side face – cut 2. Step two With RS together, sew the ‘inner face’
Middle face – cut 1. onto the corresponding side face piece, keeping
NOTES Back head – cut 2. the machine needle in the down position and
QYou'll find the templates for this Stomach – cut 2. raising the foot at the internal corner and
toy on page 151. Back body – cut 2. pivoting the fabric into position before lowering
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Arm – cut 2. the foot again and sewing the remaining part of
ounless otherwise stated. Leg – cut 4. the seam. Repeat for the opposite side. 02
Foot – cut 2. Step three With RS together, close the dart in
From the white fabric: the top of the middle face and then sew the
Ear – cut 2. top of the nose onto the bottom of the
Snout – cut 2. middle face. 03

RaccooN
04 05 06
10 11 12
Step four With RS together and starting at the and sew down the side and around the bottom, ASSEMBLING THE RACCOON
bottom tip of the nose each time, sew the side tapering the seam at the end. Turn RS out and Step one Tack an arm and leg in place on the
face pieces onto either side of the middle face. stuff, leaving the top 2cm (¾in) empty, and then RS of each of the stomach pieces. Tack the tail in
Sew the bottom of the face (from the nose to tack closed. Repeat to make the other arm. 09 place above the dart 12 on the RS of one of the
the neck) together. 04 Step two Place two mirror-image leg pieces back body pieces.
Step five Place one black and one white ear RS RS together and stitch together along the front. Step two Join a stomach piece to the
together and sew together around the sides. Starting at the back of the leg, sew the foot corresponding back body RS together to make
Turn RS out and then tack closed at the bottom. around the bottom, making sure that the notch one side of the body. Repeat with the other
Clip away the excess seam allowance to give a at the top of the foot matches up with the pieces to make the opposite side. 13
straight edge. Repeat for the other ear. 05 central seam at the front of the leg. Step three Sew the side body sections RS
Step six With the white side of the ear against Step three Sew the back of the leg together for together from the top of the stomach. Finish
the RS of the face, tack the ears in position on 6cm (2½in) down from the top, leaving the the seam just above the tail. 14
the face between the seam and the notch. 06 bottom part open. Turn the leg RS out and Step four With RS together, line up the central
Step seven With RS together, place one back bring the front and back seams together in the seam at the bottom of the face with the central
head on top of the other and from the top sew middle at the top and tack the top of the leg seam at the top of the stomach and beginning
them together along the back notched edge for closed (they will be stuffed at the end). Repeat at this point sew one side of the head to the
6cm (2½in). 07 to make the other leg. 10 body. Return to the central point and sew the
Step eight Line up the central dart on the Step four Sew the tail stripe pieces RS together other half together. 15
middle face with the central seam in the back along the length, alternating the black and Step five Following the manufacturer’s
head, with RS together. From this top point, sew white pieces and making sure that the pile runs instructions, fix the safety eyes in place in the
the face and back head together down one side. in the same direction. Mark and cut out a tail eye patches. Sew the rest of the back head
Return to the top point and sew the remaining piece from this striped panel with the pile closed, stopping at the neck to leave an
side together. Sewing the seam in two parts in direction running towards the tip of the tail. opening in the back to allow for turning
this way helps to ensure a more even finish. 08 With RS together, fold the tail over and sew and stuffing. 16
together down the side, over-sewing the joins Step six Turn the raccoon RS out and stuff the
MAKING THE ARMS, LEGS AND TAIL in the stripes to secure. Turn the tail RS out, stuff head and body and each leg.
Step one Fold an arm piece over RS together and then tack the end closed. 11 Step seven With black stranded cotton, sew a

RaccooN
13 14 15
16 17 18
mouth onto the snout. 17

Step eight With a four strand thickness of
regular sewing thread, add face shaping
between the eyes. Bring the needle out at the
inside of one eye (with a long enough needle
the thread can be knotted and the needle taken
through the opening in the back of the raccoon
and out at the eye). Secure the thread with a few
small stitches and then take the needle through
the face to the other eye and then back to the
first eye and then back again to the second. Pull
lightly on the thread to draw the eyes together,
shaping the face and giving it a little more
character. Secure the thread and then snip away
the excess 18
Step nine Adjust any filling that was disturbed
by sewing the shaping and mouth and then sew
the back of the body and each leg closed using
a neat ladder stitch or similar.
It’s all in the details!

Neat hand-stitching
will give your softie
a professional finish.

plushie
palooza
Make way for a sweet trio of softies –
a quick, quilted and totally huggable
fox, cat and bear.
QuiltEd plUshieS
01 02 03
You can quilt the

softie's details in
your own style.
05 06
Backstitch the outlines of

the eyes and nose, then fill
with vertical stitches.
FOR THE CAT/BEAR,

YOU WILL NEED
QPrint fabric: 30x56cm (12x22in)
QFelt scrap: 6x5cm (2½x2in)
QBatting: 30x38cm (22x15in)
QStranded cotton: black
QBasic sewing kit
FINISHED SIZE
QApprox 23cm tall x 23cm wide
(9x9in)
NOTES
QYou’ll find the template for this
toy on page 152.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance
unless otherwise stated.
Y
tHE BEAR SOFTIE IS MADE IN EXACTL
THE SAME WAY AS THE CAT – JUST
S
SWAP THE EAR AND TAIL TEMPLATE
AND don't add WHISKERS!

QuiltEd plUshieS
04
of
Clip notches in the seam
e
the tail to help it curv
more smoothly.
07 08
CUTTING OUT away the excess batting. Quilt the two back part. Using an erasable pen or pencil, draw out
Step one Copy and cut out all the template body pieces in the same way. the features and using black stranded cotton,
pieces. Seam allowances are included and stitch a nose, mouth, whiskers and two eyes onto
arrows on the pattern pieces indicate pattern/ MAKING THE EARS the face. 05
pile direction for marking and cutting out. Step one Place two mirror-image ear pieces one
When the pattern specifies to cut two or more on top of the other RS together and then place CONSTRUCTING THE CAT/BEAR
of a pattern piece, after marking out half of the both on top of a piece of batting that is larger Step one Baste the ears in position on the right
pieces required the template needs to be on all sides. Sew all three layers together around side of the front body piece between the marker
turned over to mark out the remaining half so the sides and then trim away the excess batting. and the corner just inside the seam allowance. 06
that the pieces are cut as mirror images. Step two Clip the seam allowance at the tip of Step two Baste the tail to the right side of one of
Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, the ear, taking care not to clip any stitching. 02 the back body pieces in between the
draw around the pattern pieces onto the wrong Turn the right way out and quilt the ear as corresponding markers. Place one back body
side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following: desired. 03 Repeat to make the remaining ear. piece on top of the other RST and starting at the
From the print fabric: top, sew together along the straight edge for
Cat front body – cut 1. MAKING THE TAIL approximately 7.5cm (3in), pause to increase the
Back body – cut 2. Step one Right side up, place the tail on top of a stitch length to the longest setting and then
Cat ear – cut 4. piece of batting that is larger on all sides. Quilt continue for a further 5cm (2in) before returning
Cat tail – cut 1. as desired and then trim away the excess to the normal stitch length to complete the rest
From the felt: batting. Fold the tail in half, RS together, and of the seam. 07
Cat face – cut 1. sew together leaving the bottom end open. 04 Step three RST, sew the front and back body
Clip ‘V’ shape notches around the curve and together taking care to move the tail out of the
MAKING THE BODY then turn the right way out. way of the seam. Clip the seam allowance at the
Step one Right side (RS) up, place the front body internal corners and clip ‘V’ shaped notches in
on top of a piece of batting that is larger on all MAKING THE FACE the curves taking care to avoid the stitching. 08
sides. Quilt as desired, avoiding the areas Step one Right sides up, position the felt face Step four Open the longer stitches in the back
indicated 01 – clipping at a later stage may piece on top of the quilted front body and sew body to allow for turning and then turn the right
damage any quilting stitches made there. Trim in place around the inside edge of the ‘snout’ way out and stuff. Close the opening in the back

QuiltEd plUshieS
09 10 11
The head is sewn to the

front body piece RS together.
12 13
Baste the ears

Add a white tip to just inside the
make a fox's seam allowance.
distinctive tail.
FOR THE FOX, CUTTING OUT for the other side. Sew the two lower face pieces
YOU WILL NEED Step one Copy and cut out all the template together where they meet in the middle of the
QOrange fabric: 36x46cm (14x18in) pieces. Seam allowances are included and face and then finger press this seam open.
QWhite fabric: 18cm (7in) square arrows on the pattern pieces indicate pattern/ Step two Sew the face to the top of the front
QBatting: 56x38cm (22x15in) pile direction for marking and cutting out. body RST and press the seam open. 10 Quilt the
QPolyester toy filling When the pattern specifies to cut two or more body pieces as for the cat softie.
QStranded cotton: black of a pattern piece, after marking out half of the Step three Select an orange ear piece for the
QWater erasable pen or pencil pieces required the template needs to be back and a white one for the front and make the
QBasic sewing kit turned over to mark out the remaining half so ears as for the cat softie.
that the pieces are cut as mirror images. Step four RST, sew the tail tip to the lower tail 11
FINISHED SIZE Step two Using a water erasable pen, draw and then quilt and make the tail as for the cat
QApprox 23cm tall x 23cm wide around the pattern pieces onto the wrong side softie, clipping the seam allowance at the tip of
(9x9in) (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following: the tail before turning the right way out. 12
From the orange fabric: Step five Using an erasable pen or pencil, draw
NOTES Fox front body – cut 1. out the eyes, nose and mouth as a guide and
QYou’ll find the template for this toy Back body – cut 2. then using black stranded cotton, embroider
on page 152. Fox upper face – cut 1. the facial features.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Fox ear – cut 2.
unless otherwise stated. Fox lower tail – cut 1. CONSTRUCTING THE FOX
From the white fabric: Step one With the white fronts of the ears
Fox lower face – cut 2. against the right side of the upper face, baste
Fox ear – cut 2. the ears in place between the marker and the
Fox tail tip – cut 1. side corner of the upper face just inside the
seam allowance. 13
MAKING THE FOX Step two Follow steps 2-4 in the ‘constructing
Step one RST, sew a lower face piece to the the cat/bear’ section to complete the fox.
corresponding side of the upper face. 09 Repeat

totally
roarsome
Say hello to our friendly T-Rex, the
big softie of a dinosaur who’s always
ready for Jurassic japes at playtime!
DinosauR
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT MAKING THE EYEBROWS

QMain fabric: dark green plush, Step one Copy and cut out all the template pieces. Step one With right sides (RS) together, fold one
50x75cm (20x30in) The templates include seam allowances where eyebrow in half lengthways and sew the angled
QContrast fabric: mid green plush, necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print end together, tapering the end at the fold.
30x35cm (12x14in) direction for marking and cutting out. The Step two Turn the eyebrow RS out and then tack
QFelt: white, 3x20cm (1½x8in) notches are used to match pieces when stitching the raw edges together along the length.
Q2 safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) together, so mark these, too. When the pattern Step three Repeat for the other eyebrow. 01
QPolyester toy filling specifies to cut two or more of a template, after
QWater erasable pen or pencil marking out half of the pieces required, the ATTACHING THE EYEBROWS
QBasic sewing kit template needs to be turned over to mark out the Step one Tack an eyebrow to the RS of a back side
remaining half so that the pieces are cut as mirror head piece so that the open end of the eyebrow is
FINISHED SIZE images. at the top of the head.
QApprox 30cm (12in) tall. Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil Step two With RS together, sew the front side
draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side head to the corresponding back side head,
NOTES (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following: sandwiching the eyebrow in between them.
QYou’ll find the templates for this From the main fabric: Step three Fold the eyebrow towards the front of
toy on page 153-154. Middle head – cut 1. the head and tack the top of it to the top of the
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Front side head – cut 2. front side head (this will ensure that the eyebrow
unless otherwise stated. Back side head – cut 2. is facing the correct way when the middle head is
Nostril – cut 2. added later). 02
Eyebrow – cut 2. Step four Repeat this for the other eyebrow on the
Side body – cut 2. other side of the head using the other front side
Inner arm – cut 2. head piece and back side head piece.
Inner leg – cut 2.
Bottom foot – cut 2. MAKING THE NOSTRILS
From the contrast fabric: Step one With WS together, fold a nostril piece,
Tummy – cut 1. bringing the two opposite corners that are the
Chin – cut 2. shortest distance apart together.
Toes – cut 2. Step two Tack the unfolded (raw) edges together
From the felt: to hold the nostril in this position.
Teeth – cut 1. Step three Fold the nostril in half again to bring

DinosauR
04 05 06
10 11 12
the other two corners together and again tack the to the other side of the head. Tacking the teeth around its corresponding opening in the upper
unfolded edge together. 03 from the centre out like this helps to ensure that side of the tummy and then repeat to attach the
Step four Repeat for the other nostril piece. they line up. other inner arm.
Step three Make the smallest holes possible Step three Sew the inner leg pieces to their
ATTACHING THE NOSTRILS through which to allow the shank of the eye in corresponding openings in the lower side of
Step one Due to the small size and thickness of the each of the front side head pieces where marked the tummy. 10
nostrils it is advisable to tack them by hand to the on the templates.
middle head as they may slip out of position Step four Fit the eyes in place according to the ATTACHING THE SIDE BODY PIECES
during machine sewing. Position a nostril in manufacturer’s instructions. 06 Step one With RS together, sew a side body piece
between the markers on the RS of the middle to its corresponding side of the tummy. Sew from
head so that the open side faces towards the ATTACHING THE CHIN the neck edge down around the arm and top of
bottom of the middle head and tack into place. Step one With RS together, place one chin piece the leg and finish the seam at the front of the foot.
Step two Repeat for the other nostril. 04 on top of the other and sew together along the Step two Clip the seam allowance at the corners
curved un-notched edge. 07 on the hand and clip the internal corners in the
JOINING THE SIDE AND MIDDLE HEADS Step two With RS together, line up the seam at the hand and where the leg becomes the foot.
Step one With RS together, sew one side head top of the chin with the centre front of the middle Step three Repeat this on the other side of the
section to the corresponding side of the middle head. Starting at this centre point, sew the top of tummy with the other side body piece. 11
head, taking care to match up the markers on the the chin to the head along one side, pause with
middle head with the features on the side head the needle down through the fabric at the back of MAKING THE FEET AND TOES
during sewing. the chin and lift the presser foot to pivot the fabric Step one With RS together, sew a toes piece across
Step two Repeat to join the other side head into position before sewing the side of the chin to the top of the foot.
section to the middle head. 05 the back side head. Step two Starting at the back of the foot, sew
Step three Repeat this to sew the other side, a bottom foot around the end of the leg.
ATTACHING THE TEETH AND EYES starting from the centre point again. 08 Step three Clip the seam allowance at the corners
Step one Position the straight edge of the teeth on the toes and then clip the internal corners
against the raw edge of the RS of the front of the MAKING THE TUMMY between them.
head, lining up the centre of the teeth with the Step one Using matching or contrasting thread, Step four Repeat for the other foot. 12
centre of the middle head. sew lines of straight stitch across the tummy at
Step two From this central point, tack one side of regular intervals. We’ve stitched ours 2.5cm (1in) JOINING THE BODY TO THE HEAD
the teeth to one side of the head and then return apart. 09 Step one Cut along the line at the top of the
to the centre and tack the other side of the teeth Step two With RS together, sew an inner arm tummy marked on the template. This is used to

DinosauR
13 14 15
16 17 18
make a dart. back again to the second. Little ones will

Step two With RS together, close the dart at the Step three Pull lightly on the thread to draw the love having a
friendly T-Rex in
top of the tummy, tapering the end. 13 eyes together slightly – this will give the face the playroom!
Step three With RS together, line up the dart at the a little more character. Secure the thread, then
top of the tummy with the seam at the bottom of take the needle back in and out again and snip the
the chin and, beginning at this central point, sew excess. 17
one side of the head and body together.
Step four Return to the centre and sew the SHAPING THE TOES
remaining side together. 14 Step one With a double thickness of thread, bring
Step five With RS together, sew the bottom of the the needle through the bottom of the foot directly
body together from the foot up along the back of up and out at the toe piece seam in between two
the leg and along the tail, finishing the seam at the of the toes.
tail tip. Repeat for the other side. 15 Step two Make a few stitches through the foot to
Step six With RS together, sew the back of the secure the thread and then bring the thread over
head (tapering the end of the dart) and the front of the foot between the two toes and
approximately 5cm (2in) at the top of the back of back through the foot.
the body. Step three Pull the thread to tighten then repeat.
Step seven Sew the back of the tail together from Step four Secure the toe stitches by taking the
the tip upwards and finishing the seam to leave a needle through the foot as at the start and then
10-12cm (4-5in) opening in the back of the repeat between the other two toes on the foot.
dinosaur. 16 Secure the thread and snip away the excess. 18
Step five Repeat to make the toe stitches on the
FILLING AND SHAPING THE FACE other foot.
Step one Turn the dinosaur RS out, stuff with
polyester filling and sew the opening in the back
closed using ladder stitch.
Step two Sew some shaping between the eyes by
bringing the needle out at the bottom inside one
eye, securing the thread with a few small stitches
and then taking the needle through the face to
the other eye and back to the first eye and then

pencil
Pals
Stitch up your own set of
cute colouring pencils in
bright rainbow shades.
ColouRing PencilS
01 02
This curved unit will

become the tip
of the pencil.
1.25cm (½in)
11.5cm (4¼in)

QPink solid fabric: 32x10cm (12½x4in), Step one Copy and cut out all of the pattern
for the eraser pieces. The templates include seam allowances
QGrey solid fabric: 21.5x4cm where necessary and the arrows indicate the pile
(8½x1½in), for the ferrule or print direction for marking and cutting out.
QBright solid fabric: 28x14cm The notches are used to match pieces when
(11x5½in), for the pencil body and stitching together, so mark these too.
lead tip Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil
QBeige solid fabric: 18x10cm (7x4in), draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side
for the sharpened tip (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following:
QBatting: 25x20cm (10x8in) From the pink solid fabric:
QFusible web: 6x5cm (2½x2in) Eraser top – cut 1.
QPolyester toy filling 21.5x4.5cm (8½x1¾in) rectangle for the eraser
QStranded cotton: black side – cut 1.
QPair of 6mm black plastic From the silver grey solid fabric:
safety eyes 21.5x4.5cm (8½x1¾in) rectangle for the ferrule
QWater erasable pen or pencil (the metal bracelet that holds the eraser) – cut 1.
QBasic sewing kit From the bright solid fabric:
21.5x14cm (8½x5½in) rectangle for the body of
FINISHED SIZE the pencil – cut 1.
QApprox 25x25cm (10x10in) From the beige solid fabric:
Sharpened tip – cut 1.
NOTES
QYou’ll find the templates for this toy MAKING THE TIP
on page 154. Step one Trace the lead tip template onto the
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance paper side of the fusible web and cut out
unless otherwise stated. roughly. Fuse to the WS of a remaining piece of
the bright solid fabric and then cut out neatly
on the drawn line.
Step two Place the sharpened tip shape right
side up. Remove the backing paper from the

ColouRing PencilS
03 04 05
Pin carefully and sew

slowly to get those
perfect curved seams!
lead tip shape and position it at the bottom of

the sharpened tip. Fuse in place. Using
coordinating thread, sew two lines of straight
stitch around the curve of the lead tip, close to
the edge, to secure. 01
MAKING THE PENCIL BODY

Step one Join the ferrule rectangle to the top
edge of the pencil body rectangle. Press the
seam towards the ferrule.
Step two Take the batting rectangle and place
the unit made in step one centrally and right
side up on top. Quilt as desired. Trim away any
excess batting.
Step three Join the eraser side rectangle to the
top edge of the ferrule. Measure the horizontal
centre of the pencil body and then measure
11.5cm (4¼in) up from this point from the
bottom edge. Measure and mark points 1.25cm
(½in) each side of this point. 02 These are the
eye marks, which should be 3cm (1¼in) apart.
Step four At each eye mark, make a hole
through which you can insert the eye, keeping it
as small as possible. Fit the eyes in place
according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step four Mark a smile below the eyes using an
erasable pen or pencil. Embroider over it using
black stranded cotton.
ATTACHING THE TIP AND END

Step one Take the sharpened tip piece and

ColouRing PencilS
place the curved edge RS together with the

bottom edge of the pencil body. Sew together
and clip V-shaped notches into the seam
allowance. 03
Step two Take the eraser top shape and place it
RS together with the top edge of the eraser
side, bringing the top corners of the eraser side
together to make a circle. Sew together and
then clip V-shaped notches into the seam
allowance. 04
FINISHING THE PENCIL

Step one RS together, bring the sides edges of
the pencil together. Sew together, sewing from
the tip upwards and then from the eraser
downwards, leaving an opening of approx 3in in
the pencil body piece. Clip the seam allowance
at the lead tip to remove some of the bulk. 05
Step two Turn the pencil RS out through the
opening in the pencil body. Stuff with polyester
toy filling, making sure to get the filling down
into the tip. Slipstitch the gap closed to finish.

winter
Craft these critters for cooler climes and seasonal
fun, from Father Christmas’ favourite reindeer
Rudolph to an adorably huggable polar bear.
117
112
121
125
129
Y
No need to wait for a white Christmas,
you can sew your own frosty friend
– a smiley snowman softie.
SnowmaN

SnowmaN
01 02 03
07 08 09

QFabric A: white fleece fabric, QYou’ll find the templates for this Step one Copy and cut out all the template pieces.
50x50cm (20x20in), for the toy on pages 155-156. The templates include seam allowances where
main body QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print
Q Fabric B: cotton fabric, 22x22cm unless otherwise stated. direction for marking and cutting out. The notches
(9x9in), for the arms QThis snowman has been made are used to match pieces when stitching together,
QFabric C: cotton fabric, 10x10cm mainly using stretchy fleece fabric so mark these too. When the template specifies
(4x4in), for the nose so clipping into internal curves that you need to cut two or more of a template
QFabric D: fleece fabric, 25x56cm and making notches around piece, after marking out half of the pieces required,
(10x22in), for the hat and scarf external curves is not always the template needs to be turned over to mark out
QFabric E: cotton fabric, 16x36cm instructed for fleece. When the remaining half so that the pieces are cut as
(7x14in), for the hat lining clipping always take care to avoid mirror images.
QPair of 12mm black plastic any stitching. Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, draw
safety eyes QDue to the curved shape of the out the template pieces onto the wrong side (WS)
QBlack stranded cotton snowman using cotton fabric is of the fabric and cut out the following:
QPolyester toy filling not recommended, with the From Fabric A:
QWadding/felt scrap: 12x12cm exception of the arms, nose and Face – cut 1.
(5x5in) hat lining. Side head – cut 2.
QPair of buttons: 18mm (¾in) QAs the arms are sewn directly into Tummy – cut 1.
diameter seams, sew over the joins so they Side body – cut 2.
QWater erasable pen or pencil are well secured and to reduce Base – cut 1.
QBasic sewing kit the likelihood of them being Hat pom pom – cut 1.
pulled out. From Fabric B:
FINISHED SIZE Arm – cut 4.
QApprox 30cm (12in) tall with the From Fabric C:
hat or 26cm (10in) tall without Nose – cut 1.
the hat. From Fabric D:
Hat outer – cut 1.
Scarf – cut 1 measuring 7x56cm (2¾x22/ in).
From Fabric E:
Hat lining – cut 1.

SnowmaN
04 05 06
10 11 12
MAKING THE HEAD Sew a few lines of quilting to

Step one With the right sides (RS) together, sew create a realistic carrot nose
detail for your snowman.
a side head piece to its corresponding side of
the face. Repeat to attach the other side head to
the remaining side of the face. 01
Step two Close the dart in each of the side head
pieces with RS facing, tapering the end. 02
MAKING THE BODY

Step one Sew a side body piece to its
corresponding side of the tummy with RS
together. Repeat to attach the other side body
to the remaining side of the tummy. 03
Step two Place two mirror-image arm pieces RS
facing and sew around the sides, leaving the
bottom end open. Clip the seam allowance at
the internal corners and clip V-shaped notches
around the external curves. Turn it RS out, stuff
and then tack the end closed. 04
Step three With RS together, fold the dart over
in a side body piece and sandwich the arm in
place – checking that it is facing the correct way
up – at the bottom of the dart, pinning in place
if necessary. Sew the dart closed.
Step four Repeat for the remaining arm and side
body pieces. 05
ASSEMBLING THE SNOWMAN

Step one Sew the bottom of the head to the top
of the body with RS together. 06
Step two Starting at the back of the body, sew

SnowmaN
13 14 15
16 17 18
the base to the bottom of the body with the RS cotton, embroider a smile onto the face. Sew Step six Fold the scarf lengthways RS together
of the fabric together and ensuring that the two buttons onto the front of the snowman, and sew the open sides together, but leaving
markers line up. 07 ensuring they are fully secured in place. 12 a 6-8cm (2-3in) opening in the long side. Clip
Step three Make the smallest holes possible the seam allowance at the two unfolded corners
through which to allow the shank of the eye in MAKING THE HAT AND SCARF and turn RS out. Sew the opening closed. 18
the face piece where marked. Fit the eyes into Step one Close the centre dart only on the hat Step seven Adjust the stuffing in the head.
place according to manufacturer’s instructions. outer and lining pieces, RS together. Sew the Securely close the opening in the back and add
Sew the back of the head and body, leaving outer hat to the lining along the bottom edge. the hat and scarf to finish.
a 6-8cm (2-3in) opening in the back. 08 Clip the seam allowance around the internal
Step four Turn RS out and stuff. corners and clip V-shaped notches around the
external curves. 13 Ensure the pom pom,
MAKING THE FACE Step two With RS together, sew the back of the joins and back seam
are sewn securely
Step one With the RS facing up, place the carrot outer hat together, continuing down to sew the for durability.
nose on top of the scrap of wadding/felt and back of the lining together. 14
quilt horizontal lines. Start quilting 5mm (¼in) Step three Line up the front centre dart in the
or so from the point as it may help to clip away hat outer with the seam along the back and sew
a little extra bit of the wadding at the tip of the this opening closed (similar to a boxed corner)
nose when turning RS out. 09 with RS together, tapering the ends of the seam.
Step two Trim away the excess wadding Turn the hat RS out through the same opening
overhanging the sides of the nose. RS together, in the lining. Topstitch around the bottom edge
fold the nose in half and sew along the side. Clip of the hat. 15
the seam allowance at the tip of the nose. 10 Step four As for the nose, hand-sew a running
Step three Turn the nose RS out and stuff. Hand- stitch around the edge within the 5mm (¼in)
sew a running stitch around the top within the seam allowance of the hat pom pom and gather
5mm (¼in) seam allowance and pull on the to form a cup shape. Add filling and then draw
thread to gather the end of the nose, folding up fully, folding the raw edges inside, and
the raw edges inside. Secure the thread to hold secure the thread to hold it into a ball shape. 16
the gathering in place and then hand-sew the Step five Hand-sew the pom pom to the hat,
nose to the face, sewing twice around to make sewing around twice to make sure that it is
sure it is well-secured. 11 secured in place. Close the opening in the top of
Step four Using three strands of black stranded the lining. 17

totally
magical
Sew a cheerful unicorn in soft pastel
hues for a special child in your life.
Sweet dreams!
UnicorN
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT From fleece B:

QMain body fleece: white, 100x75cm Step one Copy and cut out all of the template Mane – cut 1.
(40x30in) pieces. Seam allowances are included and the Tail – cut 1.
QFleece A: pink 44x18cm (18x7in) arrows indicate the direction of the fabric pile for Top hoof – cut 4.
QFleece B : blue, 28x52cm (11x21in) marking and cutting out. The notches are used to Bottom hoof – cut 4.
QFleece C: green, 22x14cm (9x6in) match pieces when stitching together so mark From fleece C:
Q2 safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) these on the template pieces too. When the Mane – cut 1.
QFelt scrap: white, for eye fixing template specifies to cut two or more of a Tail – cut 1.
QPolyester toy filling template piece, after marking out half of the
QStranded cotton: black and pieces required, turn the template over to mark MAKING THE HEAD
1 pastel shade out the remaining pieces so they are cut as Step one With right sides (RS) together, place
QWater erasable pen or pencil mirror images. a front ear on top of a back ear and sew together
QBasic sewing kit Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, around the curved sides, leaving the bottom
trace around all of the template pieces onto the open.
FINISHED SIZE wrong side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the Step two Turn RS out and make a fold in the centre
QApprox: 35cm (14in) sitting. following: of the front ear so that it mirrors the shape and
From the white fleece: width of the back and then tack the fold in place
NOTES Middle face – cut 1. across the bottom of the ear. Repeat for the other
QYou’ll find the template for this toy Horn – cut 1. ear, but this time making the front ear fold in the
on pags 156-157. Side face – cut 2. opposite direction. 01
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Front ear – cut 2. Step three With RS together, sew the bottom three
unless otherwise stated. Back ear – cut 2. edges of the horn around the opening in the top
Stomach – cut 1. of the middle face. When you reach each corner,
Inner front leg – cut 2. pause with the needle down through the fabric
Outer front leg – cut 2. and lift the presser foot and pivot before
Inner back leg – cut 2. continuing for ease of sewing. 02
Side body – cut 2. Step four Fold one side face piece RS together so
From fleece A: that the sides of the dart align and sew closed.
Fringe – cut 2. Repeat to close the dart on the other side face
Mane – cut 1. piece. 03
Tail – cut 1. Step five With RS together, sew a side face piece

UnicorN
04 05 06
10 11 12
along the curved edge to the corresponding side inner back legs around the corresponding against the RS of the side face in between the
of the middle face. Take care to ensure that it is openings in the sides of the stomach. 07 seam and the marker (ensuring that the fold in the
the correct side and the side face will not be Step two With RS together, sew an outer front leg ear points away from the horn) and tack in place.
upside down. to the corresponding side body piece between Repeat for the other side of the face. 12
Step six Make a small hole where marked on the the notch and the top edge of the side body. Step three With RS together, starting at the top
side face and fit the shank of the safety eye from Repeat for the opposite side. 08 next to the horn, sew the face to the body. Stitch
front to back through it. Cut a square of white felt to Step three With RS together, sew an outer front over the ears twice to secure them firmly in place
approximately 1.5cm (/ in). Make a small hole in leg to its corresponding inner front leg and top (in the seams). 13
the centre and then fit it over the eye shank on the part of stomach along the front side. Repeat for Step four The mane and tail are sewn into the
wrong side (WS) of the face. Fix the back of the eye the opposite side. 09 seams; to ensure they are securely held and limit
in place following the manufacturer’s instructions. Step four Open out one front leg and with RS the likelihood of them being pulled out, it is
Repeat for the other side of the face. 04 together sew the top of one top hoof around the important to oversew the joins. Tack the mane in
bottom of the leg. With RS together and place to the RS of one of the side body pieces in
MAKING THE MANE AND TAIL beginning at the back of the hoof, sew between the top seam and the marker. Tack the
Step one To fringe the mane and tail pieces cut a bottom hoof around the bottom edge of the top tail in place between the markers on the same
along the vertical lines as marked on the template, hoof. Repeat for the other front hoof. 10 side body so that the folded side faces up towards
stopping before the top edge. Step five With RS together, sew the back of the the head. 14
Step two Topstitch 3mm (/ in) in from the edges front hoof and leg together as one seam. Adjust Step five With RS together, sew one side at the
of the fringe, mane and tail pieces to give the raw the fabric and then sew the small side section bottom of the body together from the back of the
edges a more finished look. 05 between the legs and the top of the back leg top hoof along the leg and continuing on to join
Step three With RS up, place the mane pieces, one together as a second seam. Repeat for the the side body to the stomach, finishing in the
on top of the other, and tack together along the opposite side. 11 centre at the bottom of the stomach. Repeat for
top edge. Step six Sew a top hoof and bottom hoof to each the other side. 15
Step four Tack the tail pieces together in the of the back legs in the same way. Step six With RS together, sew the horn together
same way and then fold the tail over at the top from the tip down and continue along the back of
so the pieces are WS together and tack the fold ASSEMBLING THE UNICORN the body ending the seam approximately 2cm
in place. 06 Step one Position a fringe piece so that the WS is (¾in) past the end of the mane. Sew the lower part
against the RS of the middle head in between the of the body together from the bottom upwards
MAKING THE BODY horn and the seam joining the side face and tack and ending the seam approximately 2cm (¾in)
Step one With RS together, close the dart at the into place. past the top of the tail, leaving an opening in the
top of the stomach, then sew the inner front and Step two Position an ear so that the front side is back of the body. 16

UnicorN
13 14 15
16 17 18
Step seven Turn the unicorn RS out, stuff with A rainbow tail
polyester filling and sew the opening in the back adds a magical
closed using ladder stitch or similar. finishing touch!
STITCHING THE FEATURES

Step one Sew some shaping between the eyes by
bringing the needle out at the bottom inside of
one eye, securing the thread with a few small
stitches. Take the needle through the face (don’t
make the shaping stitches too small as they may
pull and damage the fabric) to the other eye and
back to the first eye and then back again to the
second. Pull lightly on the thread to draw the eyes
together slightly, giving the face a little more
character. Secure the thread by taking the needle
back into the head and out again then snip away
the excess. 17
Step two Draw a guideline for the mouth using a
water erasable pen, and then backstitch over it in
black thread. Sponge or water spray away the
erasable pen lines.
Step three Add some eyelashes too in the same
way using three or four strands.
Step four Finally, using some thread in a pastel
shade, stitch some nostrils onto either side of the
face above the mouth. 18

run run
Sew an adorable deer duo to join in with your
rudolph
reindeer games this festive season. By Jo Carter.
Sew an adorable deer duo for Christmas

home décor or gifts in the festive season.
Choose which gets a red nose!
ReindeeR
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT MAKING THE ANTLERS

QFabric A: light brown, 50x50cm Step one Copy and cut out all the template Step one Place two mirror-image antler pieces
(20x20in), for main body pieces. The templates include seam allowances right sides (RS) facing and sew together around
QFabric B: dark brown, 30x30cm where necessary and the arrows indicate the the sides and top but leaving the bottom edge
(12x12in), for antlers and hooves print direction for marking and cutting out. open for turning.
QFabric C: white or cream, 24x30cm Mark the notches for matching pieces. When Step two Clip the seam allowance at the corners
(10x12in), for tummy and tail the pattern specifies to cut two or more of a and clip V-shaped notches around the curves.
QFabric D: red or black, 8x8cm template, after marking out half of the pieces Step three Turn RS out and stuff, leaving the
(3x3in), for nose required, the template needs to be turned over bottom 2cm (¾in) empty, and then tack across
QPair of 8mm safety eyes, black to mark out the remaining half so that the the end to close.
QPolyester toy filling pieces are cut as mirror images. Step four Repeat this to make the other antler in
QStranded cotton: black Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil the same way. 01
QWater erasable pen or pencil draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong
QBasic sewing kit side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following: MAKING THE EARS
From Fabric A: Step one Place one back ear and one front ear
FINISHED SIZE Middle face – cut 1. RS facing and sew together around the sides.
QApprox 28cm (11in) from nose Side face – cut 2. Step two Clip V-shaped notches in the seam
to tail. Front ear – cut 2. allowance around the curves and then turn the
Back ear – cut 2. ear RS out.
NOTES Back head – cut 2. Step three Make a fold in the front ear to flatten
QYou’ll find the templates for this Side body – cut 2. it so it is the same width as the back ear then
toy on page 158. Leg – cut 4. tack the fold into place.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Tail – cut 1. Step four Repeat this to make the opposite ear,
unless otherwise stated. From Fabric B: but this time making the fold in the opposite
QAs the legs, ears and antlers are Antler – cut 4. direction to give two mirror-image ears. 02
sewn directly into the seams, it is Hoof – cut 4.
advisable to sew over the joins From Fabric C: MAKING THE FACE
twice to make sure they are well Tummy – cut 1. Step one With RS together sew the top of the
secured and reduce the likelihood Tail – cut 1. nose to the bottom of the middle face.
of them being pulled out. From Fabric D: Step two Sew each side face piece to its
Nose – cut 1. corresponding side of the nose. 03

ReindeeR
04 05 06
10 11 12
Step three Close the dart at the top of the way is easier and will help to give you a more together around the sides, leaving the end
middle face with RS together. even finish. 07 open. Turn RS out.
Step four Bring one side face and the middle Step five Sew the front of the face RS together, Step two Lightly stuff the lower half of the tail
face together so the dart in that side of the nose taking care not to sew into the seam allowance only and tack the end closed.
comes together, making sure that the seams at the nose as this can cause puckering on the Step three Fold the tail in half and tack the fold
line up. Sew from the nose upward to the top of finished nose. 08 into place. 10
the head. Step six Make the smallest holes possible
Step five Repeat this process for the other side through which to allow the shank of the eye in ASSEMBLING THE BODY
of the face. the side face pieces where marked. Fit the eyes Step one With the legs against the RS of the side
Step six Close each of the small darts on both in place according to the manufacturer’s body pieces and making sure the leg seams are
side face pieces. 04 instructions. When using thin fabric, it is facing the back, tack the legs in position where
advisable to fit a small square of felt or wadding marked on the templates.
ASSEMBLING THE HEAD over the shank of the eye before fitting the back Step two Tack the tail to one of the side body
Step one With the front of the ears against the to support the fabric around eye. pieces in the same way. 11
RS of the face and with the fold in each ear Step three Sew a side body piece to its
facing away from the top of the head, tack the MAKING THE LEGS corresponding side of the tummy piece with RS
ears in position where they are marked on the Step one Sew the top of a hoof to the bottom of together, taking care to align the markers.
side face template. a leg with RS together. Step four Repeat this on the other side. 12
Step two Tack the antlers in position in the same Step two Fold the leg in half RS together and
way so that the small fork is towards the centre sew along the side and around the bottom of JOINING THE HEAD TO THE BODY
of the head. 05 the hoof. Step one With RS together, close the dart in the
Step three Place the back head pieces with RS Step three Clip the seam allowance at the top of the tummy, tapering the end.
facing and sew them together along the back corners and internal corner. Step two Sew the head to the body with the
from the top down for approx 5cm (2in) just to Step four Turn the leg RS out and stuff, leaving pieces RS together. 13
join them together. 06 2cm (¾in) at the top empty, and then tack the Step three With RS together, sew the back of the
Step four With RS together, line up the dart at end closed. head fully closed finishing the seam just below
the top of the face with the central seam in the Step five Repeat this to make the remaining legs the neck seam on the side body.
back head. From this top point, sew the face in the same way. 09 Step four Close the back of the body so that the
and back head together down one side. Return tail is fully sewn into the seam but leaving an
to the top point and sew the remaining side MAKING THE TAIL opening in the back of the body. 14
together. Sewing the seam in two parts in this Step one Place the tail pieces RS facing and sew Step five Turn the reindeer RS out and stuff.

ReindeeR
13 14 15
16 17 18
ADDING THE DETAILS If Rudolph is your

Step one Embroider a mouth using black reindeer of choice,
stranded cotton. 15 raid your stash for a
scrap of bright red
Step two If necessary, some internal shaping fabric for the nose.
can be sewn between the eyes to pull them
inwards a little. Bring the needle out at the
inside of one eye, securing the thread with a few
small stitches, and then take the needle through
the face to the other eye, back to the first eye
and then back again to the second. Don’t make
the shaping stitches too small.
Step three Pull lightly on the thread to draw the
eyes together slightly, giving the face a little
more character.
Step four Secure the thread, take the needle
back into the head and out again at any point
and then snip away the excess. 16
Step five To hold the antlers into more of an
upright position stitch them to the middle face
about 5mm (¼in) out from the seam. 17 18
Step six Adjust any filling that has become
disturbed and close the opening in the back
using ladder stitch or similar.

white
as snow
Whether frolicking outdoors or snuggling
under the duvet, this polar bear will
warm the coldest winter days.
Polar bear
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT STITCHING THE SNOWFLAKES

QPlush fabric: white, 50x75cm Step one Copy and cut out all the template Step one You can embroider as many or as few of
(20x30in) pieces. The templates include seam allowances the polar bear pieces with snowflakes as you
QPlush fabric: black, 6x6cm where necessary and the arrows indicate the pile prefer. We have put three on ours. To do this,
(23/8x23/8in) or print direction for marking and cutting out. draw out your own snowflake designs onto
QPair of plastic safety eyes: black, The notches are used to match pieces when paper then copy them freehand onto your
12mm (½in) diameter stitching together, so mark these, too. When the chosen fabric pieces.
QStranded cotton: black and pattern specifies to cut two or more of a Step two It’s best to press a small piece of iron-on
metallic silver template, after marking out half of the pieces interfacing onto the wrong side (WS) of the plush
QScraps of iron-on interfacing required, the template needs to be turned over fabric piece where you want to work the
QPolyester toy filling to mark out the remaining half so that the pieces embroidery to support it and stop the fabric
QWater erasable pen or pencil are cut as mirror images. puckering underneath the stitching. Use metallic
QBasic sewing kit Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, thread to stitch the snowflakes using backstitch
draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong side worked close together. 01
FINISHED SIZE (WS) of the fabric and cut out as follows:
QApprox 22cm (8½in) high. From white plush fabric: MAKING THE EARS
Front ear – cut 2. Step one Place one front ear right sides (RS)
NOTES Back ear – cut 2. together with one back ear and sew around the
QYou’ll find the templates for this Middle face – cut 1. sides, leaving the straight edge open.
toy on page 159. Side face – cut 2. Step two Turn the ear RS out and make a fold in
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Back head – cut 2. the centre of the front ear so that it mirrors the
unless otherwise stated. Tummy – cut 2. shape and width of the back.
Side body – cut 2. Step three Tack the fold into place across the
Under arm – cut 2. bottom of the ear.
Top arm – cut 2. Step four Repeat this process for the other ear,
Inner leg – cut 2. but this time make the front ear fold in the
Foot – cut 2. opposite direction. 02
Tail – cut 1.
From black plush fabric: MAKING THE FACE
Nose – cut 1. Step one With RS together, close the dart in the
top of the middle face. Taper the end when you

Polar bear
04 05 06
10 11 12
reach it for a neat finish. face and back head together down one side. Step two With RS together, sew from the internal
Step two Sew the top of the nose onto the Return to the top point and sew the remaining V at the top of the under arm to the V-shaped
bottom of the middle face. 03 side together. Sewing the seam in two parts in this opening formed between the side body and
Step three With RS together, first close the dart in way is easier and helps to ensure a more even tummy.
one side face piece and then sew it to the finish. 07 Step three Repeat this process on the other side of
corresponding side of the middle face. the body. 11
Step four Repeat this process for the other side MAKING THE TAIL Step four With RS together, first close the dart in a
face piece. 04 Step one With RS together, fold the tail piece in top arm piece and then sew the top arm to its
Step five With the front of the ears against the RS half then sew it together, leaving the end open for corresponding under arm.
of the face and the fold in the ear facing outward, now. Step five Repeat this on the other side. 12
tack the ears in place between the seam and Step two Turn the tail the RS out and stuff it lightly
marker on each side. just to give it a little body. ATTACHING THE FEET
Step six Make the smallest hole possible through Step three Tack the end closed. 08 Step one With RS together, sew a foot piece
which to allow the shank of the eye in the side around the end of one leg. 13
face pieces where marked. If you’re using thin MAKING THE BODY Step two Repeat this to sew the other foot on the
fabric such as cotton add a small square of fabric Step one Select the corresponding tummy and end of the other leg.
over the shank on the reverse of the face before inner leg pieces and with RS together sew
adding the washer. This will provide some extra together around the internal curve. 09 JOINING THE HEAD
support to the eye to keep it in position and stop Step two Repeat this on the other side with the Step one With RS together, sew the front of the
it dropping down. other two tummy and inner leg pieces face closed from the bottom of the nose down to
Step seven Fit the eyes into place according to Step three With RS together, sew a side body piece the neck edge.
the manufacturer’s instructions. 05 to the corresponding tummy and leg section from Step two Join the head and body together along
the under arm area down along the side of the the neck edge, taking care to match up the
FINISHING THE HEAD body. Continue to sew across the top of the leg. markers. 14
Step one Place the back head pieces RS facing Step four Repeat this process on the other side
and sew together from the top down along the with the other two side body and tummy and leg FINISHING THE BODY
back of the head for approximately 4cm (15/8in) sections. 10 Step one Tack the tail to the RS of one of the side
just to join them. 06 body pieces.
Step two With RS together, line up the dart at the ATTACHING THE ARMS Step two With RS together, sew the back
top of the middle face with the central seam in Step one Select an under arm piece and the side head together fully to just a little beyond
the back head and from this top point sew the of the body section it corresponds with. the neck seam.

Polar bear
13 14 15
16 17 18
Step three Sew the bottom back of the body Give your polar bear
closed to just above the tail to leave an opening subtle sparkle with
of 8-10cm (3-4in) in the back of the bear body. 15 snowflakes sewn in
shimmering silver.
Step four With RS facing, sew the bottom of the
bear together from the bottom of the foot on
one side over to the bottom of the foot on the
other side. 16
Step five Turn the polar bear RS out and stuff
firmly with polyester toy filling.
ADDING THE FEATURES

Step one Embroider a mouth in backstitch using
black stranded cotton and referring to the
photograph above for positioning.
Step two Sew some shaping between the eyes
by bringing the needle out at the inside of one
eye, securing the thread with a few small
stitches and then taking the needle through the
face to the other eye, back to the first eye and
back again to the second eye. 17
Step three Pull lightly on the thread to draw the
eyes together slightly, giving the face more
character. Secure the thread, take the needle
back into the head and out again at any point
and then snip away the excess.
Step four If preferred, add some more shaping
between each corner of the mouth and the eye
above it in the same way.
Step five Re-adjust any filling that was disturbed
by the shaping then sew the back of the body
closed using ladder stitch. 18

penguin
Pals
Gather your fabric to make this
perfect pair of adorable arctic buddies
to chill out with during the winter.
PenguinS
01 02 03
07 08 09
YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT MAKING THE WINGS

QFabric A: 50x50cm (20x20in), Step one Copy and cut out all the template Step one Place two mirror-image wing pieces
for the main body pieces. The templates include seam allowances right sides (RS) together, then place both on top
QFabric B: 28x28cm (11x11in), where necessary and the arrows indicate the of a piece of wadding that is larger overall than
for the front body print direction for marking and cutting out. The the wing.
QFabric C: 20x28cm (8x11in), notches are used to match pieces when stitching Step two Sew around the sides of the wing,
for the beak and feet together, so mark these too. When the pattern sewing through all three layers and leaving the
QLining fabric: 20x28cm (8x11in), specifies to cut two or more of a template, after straight edge open.
for the inner bag marking out half of the pieces required, the Step three Clip V-shaped notches in the seam
QWadding: 15x30cm (6x12in) template needs to be turned over to mark out allowance around the curves. 01
QPair of 10mm (/ in) safety eyes the remaining half so that the pieces are cut as Step four Turn RS out. Press lightly with a cool
QPlastic beans mirror images. iron, taking care not to melt the wadding, and
QPolyester toy filling Step two Using a water erasable pen or pencil, then tack the open end closed.
QWater erasable pen or pencil draw out the pattern pieces onto the wrong Step five Repeat to make the other wing.
QBasic sewing kit side (WS) of the fabric and cut out the following
pieces: MAKING THE HEAD
FINISHED SIZE Fabric A: Step one With RS together, sew a side face piece
QApprox 22cm (8¾in) tall. Side face – cut 2. to its corresponding back head piece.
Back head – cut 2. Step two Clip V-shaped notches in the seam
NOTES Wing – cut 4. allowance around the curve. 02 Repeat for the
QYou’ll find the templates for this Back body – cut 2. other side face and back head.
toy on page 160. Base – cut 1.
QUse a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance Fabric B: ATTACHING THE WINGS
unless otherwise stated. Front body – cut 2. Step one With RS together, close the dart in the
Fabric C: bottom of the side body, tapering the top end of
Beak – cut 1. the dart.
Top foot – cut 2. Step two Position a wing against the RS of the
Bottom foot – cut 2. side body, ensuring the wing is facing in the
Lining fabric: correct direction. Tack into place as marked.
Inner bag – cut 1. Step three Repeat this with the other side body
and wing. 03

PenguinS
04 05 06
10 11 12
ASSEMBLING THE BODY Step two Sew the other top foot to the remaining each side together, leaving the end opposite the
Step one With RS together, sew the bottom opening. Sew over this seam again to strengthen fold open.
of a side face/back head section to the top of its and prevent it ripping over time. Step two Using a funnel, fill the bag with
corresponding side body. As the wings are sewn Step three Sew a bottom foot to a top foot RS plastic beans, leaving the top 3cm (1¼in) of
directly into seams it is advisable to sew over the together. The seam does not start and finish at the bag empty.
joins to reduce the likelihood of them being the same point – there should be a small space Step three Sew the bag securely closed. 11
pulled out. 04 between the two. Step four Turn the penguin RS out and stuff the
Step two Repeat for the other side. Step four Repeat for the remaining bottom foot. beak, head, feet and upper body.
Step three With the RS together, sew a front body Step five Press the seams at the bottom of each Step five Fit the inner bag containing the beans
piece to its corresponding side/back body foot so that they lie in the same way. 09 into the base and adjust the stuffing around the
section. 05 bean bag, adding more if needed.
Step four Repeat for the other side. ADDING THE BASE AND EYES Step six Close the opening in the back using
Step five Join the half body sections RS together Step one Starting and finishing at the back of the ladder stitch or similar. 12
by sewing from the top front of the front body body sew the base RS together around the
pieces along and finishing at the top of the side bottom of the penguin. Take care to keep the
face, which is the centre top of the head. 06 seams for each foot lying flat and even. 10
Step two Make the smallest holes possible
ADDING THE BEAK through which to allow the shank of the eye in
Step one Make small clips within the seam the front body pieces where marked.
allowance 3mm (/ in) deep at regular intervals Step three Fit the eyes in place according to the
around the ‘beak’ opening in the front body. manufacturer’s instructions. When using thin
Step two With RS together, sew the beak around cotton fabric like this, it is advisable to fit
this curve. 07 a small square of felt or wadding over the shank
Step three Sew the front of the body RS together of the eye before fitting the back. This gives the
from the tip of the beak down to the bottom of fabric more support to stop the eye sagging and
the front body. pulling it out of shape.
Step four Sew the back of the penguin together,
ATTACHING THE FEET leaving a 8cm (3in) opening in the lower back.
Step one Sew the inverted V opening in the top
foot around one of the similar openings at the FILLING THE PENGUIN
bottom of the front body. 08 Step one Fold the inner bag piece in half and sew

NE
Love
W
Your new
P REMIUM
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TemplAtes
Toy
Templates
All of these templates are printed at
50% of their original size, so you’ll need
to photocopy them at 200%.
GLOVE PUPPET Place on fold

QPage 10
LINING
2x lining
EAR
NOTES 4x fleece
QAt full size, all of the templates include a
5mm seam allowance. Arrows indicate the
Pr
in
print or pile direction. Some may require
t
mirror image pieces to be cut – refer to the
project instructions for usage guidance.
See page 160 for copyright information.
Pr
in
EA
t
MIDDLE FACE
1x fleece R
SIDE FACE
2x fleece
NOSE
1x black
BODY
2x fleece
BACK HEAD
1x fleece
All templates need to be photocopied at 200%, see page 133 for more. © Immediate Media. BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 133
TemplAtes
RAG DOLL
QPages 22-26
NECK
1x fabric B
SLEEVE
2x fabric C
(WITH SL
EEVE)
ARM
ARM
(WITH SL
EEVE)
FRONT BODY
1x fabric C
DRESS FRONT
FACING
1x fabric C
LEG LEG
CENTRE
LARGE FRINGE
SMALL
1x fabric A
FRINGE
1x fabric A
PIGTAIL
PIGTAIL
DRESS FRONT
1x fabric E FACE
1x fabric A
BACK HAIR
PIGTAIL 2x fabric A
2x fabric A
PIGTAIL

TemplAtes
LEGGING
ARM
2x fabric D
2x fabric B
ARM
BACK BODY
2x fabric C
FOOT
2x fabric B
T
DAR
LEG SHOE
2x fabric F
DRESS BACK FACING

DRESS BACK 2x fabric C
2x fabric E
TemplAtes
SPRING LAMBS FRONT HEAD

QPages 31-34
FRONT EAR 2x textured plush
2x printed fabric
BACK EAR SIDE FACE

2x textured or 2x smooth plush
smooth plush
MIDDLE FACE
1x smooth plush
BODY ARM
4x printed fabric
HAND/FOOT
2x textured plush 2x textured or smooth plush
LEG
2x textured or smooth plush
TAIL
1x textured plush
BASE
1x textured plush
BACK HEAD
2x textured plush

TemplAtes
EASTER CHICKS TUMMY

QPages 46-52 2x fabric A
LEG
BASE
BACK BODY
1x fabric A
2x fabric A
LEG
2x fabric B
FACE
BACK HEAD 1x fabric A
2x fabric A
E AK
B
BEAK
4x fabric B
TOP FOOT
2x fabric B
WING
CHIN
4x fabric A
1x fabric B
BOTTOM FOOT
2x fabric B
TemplAtes
FROGS
QPages 35-38
BACK BODY
2x main fabric
LILY PAD
2x felt
TUMMY
2x main fabric
TOP FOOT
2x main fabric
BOTTOM FOOT
2x main fabric
BACK HEAD
2x main fabric
HAND
2x main fabric
EYE
2x eyes
fabric
ARM BOTTOM FACE

2x main fabric 2x main fabric
TOP FACE
2x main fabric
2x main fabric
LEG

TemplAtes
BUTTERFLIES
QPages 39-41
BACK BODY
FRONT BODY
2x plush
1x plush fabric
fabric
TOP FRONT WING

2x fabric A
MIDDLE FRONT WING

2x fabric B
BACK WING
2x fabric D
BOTTOM FRONT WING

2x fabric C
WEATHER MOBILE
QPages 43-48
UPPER KITE
4x printed
SUN RAY fabrics
2x yellow felt
LOWER KITE
4x printed
SUN INNER fabrics
KITE BOW
2x yellow
3x felt scraps
fabric
TemplAtes
WEATHER MOBILE, CONT.

QPages 43-48
SNOWFLAKE
3x white felt UMBRELLA CANOPY
LIGHTNING BOLT 2x 6 printed fabrics
1x yellow felt
RAINDROP
CLOUD 2x blue felt
2x white and 2x grey fabric
UMBRELLA HANDLE
1x grey or brown fabric
BALLERINA
QPages 50-54
FRONT LEG
2x fabric A
2x fabric
FRONT
SHOE
B
HAIR BUN
1x felt BACK BODY/
LEOTARD
2x fabric B
FRONT HAIR
1x felt
LOWER BODY/
LEOTARD
EAR 1x fabric B
4x
FACE fabric A
1x fabric A
BACK HAIR
EAR
EAR
2x felt

TemplAtes
BALLERINA, CONT.
QPages 50-54
FRONT BODY
BACK HEAD
1x fabric A
1x fabric A
BACK LEG
2x fabric A
FRONT LEOTARD
2x fabric B
BACK SHOE
2x fabric B
ARM
4x fabric A
ANIMAL RATTLES
QPages 55-59
LION MANE
CUT ON FOLD
1x ochre/brown fabric
MIDDLE FACE
1x yellow or white
fabric
PANDA APPLIQUÉ
EYE PATCH
2x black fabric
PLACEMENT
GUIDES
HANDLE
2x printed fabric BACK HEAD
2x yellow or white
APPLIQUÉ NOSE fabric
1x black fabric
EAR SIDE FACE

4x yellow or black 2x yellow or white
fabric fabric
TemplAtes
GIRAFFE PR
QPages 61-64 LE IN
PI T
FRONT EAR PR
LE IN
2x contrast PI T
fabric
BACK EAR
LE
PI 2x main fabric LEG
T
IN
4x main fabric
PR
HO
RN
HORN
4x main fabric
EA
R
EYE
UPPER FACE NECK

FOOT
2x main fabric 2x main fabric
4x contrast fabric
UPPER SNOUT
2x contrast
fabric LOWER FACE
T 1x main fabric
PRIN
T
PRIN
LOWER SNOUT
1x contrast PILE
fabric
BODY B
PILE
2x main fabric
JOIN T
O BOD
LEG
YB
JO
IN
TO
BO
DY
A
(FR
T)
LE NT)
(FR EG
ON
O
G
L
BODY A
2x main fabric
TAIL
1x main fabric
BASE
1x main fabric
IL
LEG
TA
)
(BA EG
CK
LE CK)
(BA
L
G

TemplAtes
SLEEPY TEDDY M
ARM
QPages 65-68 AR
BACK BODY
2x main fabric
TUMMY
2x main fabric
front
e
Centr
TAIL
DA
R T
LE
G
G
LE
DART
N
T IO
EC
2X
EA
IR
D
M E A R EN R
FO X A IC
E
A
L
R
PI
IN
R
FA
2
BR K
MIDDLE FACE
FA
BA
CC
IC
BR RO
C
EA
R
PI
F
F
1x main fabric
O
E L
DI
N
RE
T
CT
TAIL
IO
N
EYE POSITION EYE POSITION
1x main fabric
EA
R
SIDE FACE
2x main fabric
NOSE
ARM
AR
M 2x main fabric
CE N
TRE
FRO
N TO
F FA
CE
NOSE
1x contrast
fabric
R
EA
BACK HEAD
2x main fabric
ARM
LEG
2x main fabric
TemplAtes
HAIR FLOWER
(1x felt)
MERMAID
QPages 69-72
HAIR FRINGE
1x hair colour
FACE
1x skin tone
BACK HEAD
1x skin tone EAR
4x skin tone
CHIN
1x skin tone
HAIR
1x hair colour
BACK BODY
1x skin tone
SHELL BIKINI TOP

1x felt
ARM
4x skin tone
FRONT BODY
1x skin tone
WAISTBAND
DETAIL
1x felt
TemplAtes
TOP BACK TAIL

MERMAID, CONT. 1x blue/green
QPages 69-72
TOP FRONT TAIL BOTTOM TAIL

1x blue/green 2x light blue
SEAHORSES Join to BODY PIECE A

QPages 73-75
HEAD FIN
2x contrast fabric
PILE
T
PRIN
BODY PIECE B
2x main fabric
FACE FIN
2x contrast fabric
TUMMY
2x contrast fabric
BACK FIN
2x contrast fabric
TemplAtes
SEAHORSES, CONT.
QPages 73-75
BODY PIECE A
2x main fabric
FACE
2x main fabric
Join to BODY PIECE B
ROBOTS
QPages 77-80
TOP BODY
1x grey
BOTTOM BODY
2x grey
t
r
Da
t
rt
r
da
Da
g
Le
FOOT
2x yellow SIDE AND BACK BODY
2x grey

TemplAtes
ROBOTS
QPages 77-80
HAND
2x yellow
SIDE AND
TOP OF HEAD
1x grey
TOP/BOTTOM FRONT
SIDE 2x grey
CONTROL SIDE
Aerial
PANEL FRONT
1x fabric C 2x grey
KEYPAD ON CONTROL PANEL
2x fabric A,
2x fabric B
BOTTOM
CONTROL PANEL
1x fabric D
AERIAL
2x yellow
EYE PATCH
1x white
FRONT/BACK
HEAD
2x grey
LIMB
4x grey
BOTTOM HEAD
1x grey
TemplAtes
BASE
RUSSIAN DOLLS 1x fabric A
QPages 82-86
TOP MINI DOLL

1x fabric D
FACE
1x cotton fabric
BOTTOM MINI DOLL

2x fabric E
HEADSCARF MINI DOLL

1x fabric D
TOP FRONT BODY

1x fabric B
BACK BODY
2x fabric C
BOTTOM FRONT BODY

1x fabric C
HAIR
BACK HEADSCARF 1x felt
2x fabric A
INNER POCKET LINING
2x fabric C
TemplAtes
FRONT HEADSCARF
2 x fabric A
RUSSIAN DOLLS, CONT.

QPages 82-86
INNER POCKET
COVER
1x fabric C
PUPPIES
QPages 87-90
SIDE FACE
2x light brown
BODY SPOT
2x brown
CHIN
1x light brown
BACK HEAD
SIDE BODY
2x light brown
2x light brown
BASE
1x light brown
TAIL
2x brown
TemplAtes
COLLAR
print
UNDER EAR
1x cotton print 2x brown
TOP EAR
2x brown
LEG
2x light brown
2x brown
MIDDLE FACE
1x light brown
NOSE
1x black
PUPPIES, CONT.
QPages 87-90
OWL
QPages 91-94
FRONT BODY
1x fabric A
POCKET
1x fabric C
TAIL
2x fabric B
WING EYE PATCH
4x fabric B 1x white felt
SIDE BODY BASE

2x fabric A BEAK
1x fabric A
1x yellow felt

TemplAtes
RACCOON EAR
dart
QPages 95-98 2x white
2x black
MIDDLE FACE
1x grey
SIDE FACE EYEBROW

2x grey 2x white
STOMACH
2x grey
EYE PATCH
2x black
LEG NOSE
4x grey 1x black
SNOUT
2x white
TAIL STRIPE
3x black
2x white
BACK HEAD
2x grey TAIL
BACK BODY
2x grey
FOOT
ARM
2x grey
t 2x grey
dar
TemplAtes
FOX TAIL TIP
FOX, CAT & BEAR PLUSHIES 1x white

QPages 99-101 FOX LOWER TAIL
1x orange
FOX UPPER FACE

1x orange
FOX
LOWER FACE
1x white
CAT, BEAR & FOX BACK BODY

2x main fabric
FOX FRONT BODY
1x orange
CAT & FOX EAR

4x print fabric
or 2x white and
2x orange
CAT & BEAR FACE
1x white felt
BEAR TAIL
1x print fabric
CAT & BEAR FRONT BODY

1x main fabric
BEAR EAR
4x print fabric CAT TAIL
1x print fabric

TemplAtes
DINOSAUR
QPages 103-106
TUMMY
1x contrast fabric
SIDE BODY
2x main fabric
NOSTRIL
2x main fabric
TEETH
1x felt
CHIN
2x contrast fabric
FRONT SIDE HEAD
2x main fabric
BACK SIDE HEAD

INNER LEG
2x main fabric
2x main fabric
EYEBROW
2x main
fabric
TemplAtes
DINOSAUR, CONT.
QPages 103-106
MIDDLE HEAD
1x main fabric
INNER ARM
2x main fabric BOTTOM FOOT
2x main fabric TOES
2x contrast fabric
PENCILS
QPages 107-110
ERASER TOP LEAD TIP

1x pink fabric 1x main fabric
SHARPENED TIP
1x beige fabric

TemplAtes
SNOWMAN
QPages 112-116
FACE CARROT NOSE

1x fabric A 1x fabric C
rt
Da SIDE HEAD
2x fabric A
BASE
1x fabric A
Tummy
TUMMY
1x fabric A
ARM
4x fabric B SIDE BODY
Dar 2x fabric A
t
Arm
teMplateS
CU
SNOWMAN, CONT. T
QPages 112-116 O
N
FO
LD
DART
HAT POM POM

1x fabric A
HAT OUTER/LINING
1x fabric D
1x fabric E
UNICORN
QPages 117-120
FRONT EAR
BACK EAR 2x white
2x white
OUTER FRONT LEG INNER FRONT LEG

(2x white) 2x white
TOP HOOF
4x fleece B
MANE
1x fleece A
1x fleece B
1x fleece C
BOTTOM HOOF
4x fleece B
INNER BACK LEG
2x white

teMplateS
Dart
UNICORN, CONT.
QPages 117-120
MIDDLE FACE
1x white
STOMACH
HORN 1x white
1x white
SIDE FACE
2x white
SIDE BODY PIECE

2x white
FRINGE TAIL
2x fleece A 1x fleece A
1x fleece B
1x fleece C
teMplateS
BACK HEAD
REINDEER
QPages 121-124 2x fabric A
TAIL
1x fabric A
1x fabric C
LEG
4x fabric A
SIDE BODY
2x fabric A
HOOF
4x fabric B
ANTLER BACK EAR

4x fabric B 2x fabric A
FRONT EAR
TUMMY
2x fabric A
1x fabric C Antler Antle
r
MIDDLE FACE
1x fabric A
SIDE FACE
2x fabric A
NOSE
1x fabric D

teMplateS
POLAR BEAR
QPages 125-128
TAIL
1x white
SIDE BODY
2x white UNDER ARM TOP ARM
2x white 2x white
FOOT
2x white
BACK HEAD
BACK EAR
2x white
2x white
MIDDLE FACE
FRONT EAR
1x white
2x white TUMMY
2x white
NOSE
1x black INNER LEG
2x white
SIDE FACE
2x white
teMplateS
PENGUINS
QPages 129-131
BACK BODY
2x fabric A
BEAK
1x fabric C
BASE
1x fabric A
TOP FOOT
2x fabric C
BACK HEAD
2x fabric A SIDE FACE
BOTTOM FOOT 2x fabric A
2x fabric C
FRONT BODY
2x fabric B
WING
4x fabric A
The copyright for these templates
belongs to Immediate Media. They are
not for re-sale or distribution. Please do
not make any part of the templates or
instructions available to others through
your website or a third party website, or
copy it multiple times without our
permission. Copyright law protects
creative work and unauthorised copying
is illegal. We appreciate your help.
160 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING All templates need to be photocopied at 200%, see page 133 for more. © Immediate Media.
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Offer valid for all customers purchasing from www.SewingQuarter.com/toy-making only. Use code TOYS19 to redeem £5 off when you spend £25 on selected Toy Making kits. You can use this code both
online and via the call centre. Discount codes will be limited to one code per person, to be used on one order. Offer cannot be redeemed for cash and all discount codes expire midnight 31st August 2019. All
promotions are subject to availability of promoted product. Toy making kits are not suitable for children under 3 years of age. For full terms and conditions, visit the Sewing Quarter Website.
ContrIbutorS
TOY MAKING
EDITORIAL
EDITOR Vicki Atkinson
TOY DESIGNER Jo Carter
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Charlie Moorby
SENIOR ART EDITOR Annelise Brant
PRODUCTION EDITOR Helen Dorritt
CONTRIBUTORS Michelle Grady, Zoë Patching, Rebecca Reid
PHOTOGRAPHY Jesse Wild, Phiilip Sowels, Adam Gasson
Editorial queries to [email protected]
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PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Louisa Molter/ Rose Griffiths
PRODUCTION MANAGER Sîan Rodgers / Emma McGuinness
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DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL LICENSING
& SYNDICATION MANAGER
Tim Hudson [email protected]
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Scan it – Cut it – Create it
The Brother ScanNCut family is With its unique built in scanner, it’s
perfect for paper crafters, sewers, easy to scan and cut out any image
DIY crafters and more.. or shape – No PC required.
www.brotherscanncut.co.uk
TOY MAKING
Sew your own toys wth expert help & step-by-step guides
Make toys for all seasons with this gorgeous collection designed by
Jo Carter for Simply Sewing and Love Patchwork & Quilting magazines

Beginner 39 S Guide To Toy Making

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For full details visit your www.brothersewing.co.uk

Vicki Atkinson, Editor

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 3

4 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

117 Totally magical

125 White as snow

103 Totally roarsome

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 5

M room at home, with a radio drama playing in the

just in case they are required to dress a cover

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 7

stArt dRessmAking todaY witH morE thaN 60

get started with toy making

PLASTIC SAFETY EYES

10 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

make an easy glove PUPPET

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 11

sewing and stuffing shapes

CUTTING PATTERN PIECES

PINNING INTO PLACE

12 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

More about stuffing

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 13

14 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

BASIC TACKING DIAGONAL TACK SLIP STITCH

RUNNING STITCH BACK STITCH BLANKET STITCH

LADDER STITCH WHIP STITCH HERRINGBONE STITCH

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 15

adding the embroidery

16 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

For a simple starter project,

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 17

18 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

HAND WHEEL MACHINE FEET

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 19

the Wrap DreSs SIZES

SUBSCRIBE TODAY: TRY 3 ISSUES FOR £5!

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BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 23

YOU WILL NEED NOTES CUTTING OUT

24 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 25

26 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT

28 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 29

16 It may take more

ADDING THE FEATURES

30 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

32 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

MAKING THE WINGS MAKING THE BODY

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 33

ASSEMBLING THE CHICK

34 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

YOU WILL NEED CUTTING OUT MAKING THE ARMS

36 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO TOY MAKING 37

Step four Secure the thread, take the needle back